Author: Lupe

Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-17)

Day 10 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Something was still wrong.  The road Lupe had been following from the gravel pit went only a short distance before ending at a shack in an impenetrably dense forest.  This couldn’t possibly be right.  If it was, the forest had grown up to such an extent that the Carolina Dog was never going to get to Fraser Peak (5,978 ft).  After a quick glance around to make sure no sign of a road or trail was being missed, Loop and SPHP went back the way they’d come.

The instructions SPHP had taken off the internet before Lupe left on this Dingo Vacation seemed clear enough, and the morning had begun well.  It was a beautiful, cloudless day.  After leaving the International Falls trailhead, Lupe and SPHP had headed N on South Klondike Highway No. 2, stopping at a few pullouts along the way for a look at small sparkling lakes in the scenic, heavily glaciated Tormented Valley.

Lupe checks out views in the Tormented Valley near South Klondike Highway No. 2. Photo looks S.

Fraser Peak was only 5 miles N of International Falls, and easily spotted from the South Klondike Highway.  There was supposed to be a pullout that serves as a trailhead on the E side of the highway about 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs.  SPHP also watched for a side road going W or NW into the forest on the opposite side of the highway 100 meters (330 ft.) N of the pullout toward customs.

As it turned out, there were two large gravel parking areas on the E side of the South Klondike Highway.  Between them SPHP did see a side road going NW from the highway.  This side road was nearest to the pullout closest to Canadian Customs.  It was blocked by two cement barriers, and disappeared into tall bushes and forest beyond them.

The side road was not 100 meters N from either of the pullouts.  It was the wrong direction from the pullout closest to customs, and more than twice as far N as it should have been from the pullout farther S.  There was no doubt Lupe was in the correct area, however.  Fraser Peak was right where it should be, and so was Canadian Customs.  Maybe the online directions were just a bit sloppy?

SPHP turned the G6 around and drove back to the pullout farther away from customs.  Lupe would start for Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) from here.  (11:05 AM, 66°F)

Fraser Peak from the gravel pullout on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 roughly 1 km S of Canadian Customs. Photo looks WSW.
Another look with some help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.

Loop crossed over to the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2.  It still bothered SPHP that the side road was so far from the pullout.  As the Carolina Dog followed the highway N, SPHP kept an eye out for signs of another road, but saw nothing.  Lupe reached the side road with its concrete barriers perhaps 250 meters from where the G6 was parked.

The side road headed W or NW into the forest, as expected.  This road was supposed to go 0.6 km before reaching a junction with another road near a gate.  Lupe would take the second road SW to Fraser Peak.

Fine and dandy, but that wasn’t how it worked out.  After entering the forest, the side road soon curved N away from Fraser Peak.  Unexpected.  Finding no sign of any trail continuing NW, Lupe and SPHP stuck with the road.  Before long Looper arrived at a gravel pit.

So, we’ve come all the way to NW British Columbia to tour a gravel pit, aye, SPHP? Better take another look at those directions! Photo looks N.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was right.  Better check those directions again.  The directions did mention this gravel pit and a highway maintenance garage as an alternate starting point for Fraser Peak.  For those coming from the N who don’t want to have to go through Canadian Customs, a road to the gravel pit leaves the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 shortly before reaching customs.

Not sure why we wound up here starting from where we did Loop, but it’s fine.  There’s supposed to be an old road going SW from the NW portion of this gravel pit.  It will take us to the gate we are supposed to be looking for, although it’s now 0.9 km away instead of only 0.6 km.

So follow the SW edge of this gravel pit NW looking for an old road?

Yep.  That ought to do it.

Except it didn’t.  Instead, when Lupe found an old road, it ended at this dilapidated shack in impenetrable forest.  Hmmm.  Back to the gravel pit.  Maybe there was another road even farther NW?  Sure enough, the American Dingo found one.  Yeah, this was it alright.  All systems go!

Lupe at the start of one of the two roads going SW (toward the camera) from the gravel pit. If only SPHP remembered if this was the right road, or the one going to the shack! If you take this one and arrive at a shack, come back and turn L (NW) here. The correct road isn’t far off. Photo looks NE.
What’cha think of this road, SPHP? Looking better? ….. Oh yeah, Looper. No doubt about it. All systems go! Carry on, sweet Dingo.

The correct road was nearly level and went through the forest heading straight toward the lower end of Fraser Peak’s NE ridge.  The whole mountain was soon in view.

Heading for Fraser Peak from the gravel pit and highway maintenance yard. Photo looks SW.

Loop reached the gate mentioned in the directions.  30 feet before the gate, a trail or faint road intersected with the road Lupe was on.  It came out of the forest from the SE (L).  SPHP was certain that was the route Lupe was supposed to have taken to get here from the highway.  Oh, well.  This had been a roundabout way, but so what?  It worked.

Lupe reaches the gate mentioned in the directions. 30 feet from the gate toward the camera, a trail or faint side road intersected with the road Lupe was following. It went E or SE and had to be the shortest route back to the highway. No doubt it was the route SPHP had intended Loop to use to get here. Eh, whatever works! Photo looks SW.

Beyond the gate, the road started gaining elevation.  Already near noon, it was sunny and getting hot out.  There wasn’t much shade on the road.  Lupe and SPHP would have liked to stop in the shade when there was some, but biting flies and mosquitoes made that not such a great idea.

The road had steepened quite a bit by the time it began curving W up a ravine.  A creek in the ravine was too large and swift to cross easily.  The directions said to continue following the road, anyway.  The road would lead to a better place higher up to ford the creek.

Lupe near the big stream rushing down from Bryant Lake. Photo looks W.
Getting closer to Fraser Peak. Photo looks SW.

The road briefly leveled out as Loop approached the ford.  An elevated pipeline in a wooden housing also went over the stream.  The wooden housing was clearly marked “Keep Off – Fall Hazard”, yet a distinct trail led right up to it.  Clearly this warning is not always heeded.

Lupe arrives at the ford. Bryant Lake, where the stream comes from, isn’t too far away beyond the ridge ahead. Photo looks W.

The ford didn’t look bad.  The water was swift and knee deep on SPHP, but the creek bottom wasn’t as full of big rocks where the road crossed it as elsewhere.  SPHP waded in.  Looper followed, but the fast water was deep enough to scare her.  She retreated to the bank.

SPHP made it across just fine.  Once on the far side, SPHP turned around to begin the process of coaxing Lupe to follow.  The Carolina Dog had vanished!  Looking up, there she stood, feeling foxy and quite pleased with herself on the Dingo bridge.

Warning sign? What warning sign? Mighty nice of these Canadians to provide this nifty Dingo bridge!

Now that the stream had been crossed, Lupe and SPHP left the road climbing a steep hillside to the SW.  In retrospect, it might have been better to stay on the road all the way to Bryant Lake, which wasn’t all that much farther away.  The lake would have been worth seeing.  However, climbing the hillside was a more direct route to Fraser Peak.

Looper on her way up the steep hillside after crossing the creek and leaving the road. Photo looks E.

The steep hillside wasn’t terribly high.  Loopster was soon up where the terrain leveled out to some extent.  Loop and SPHP now headed S or SE toward the lower end of the big E ridge coming down from the N end of Fraser Peak.

Lupe was already near tree line.  She traveled across open ground where little streams trickled down gentle slopes to shallow ponds.  Yet it must have been quite dry recently.  The tundra crunched beneath SPHP’s boots.  Loop had a good view of the big ridge she needed to get up on ahead.  A rocky ravine with a snow bank in it looked like a good place to begin the ascent.

Lupe reaches a flat area full of little streams and shallow ponds. Fraser Peak’s NE ridge is straight ahead. Lupe would try going up the ravine with the snow bank in it at Center. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t entirely alone.  As the American Dingo headed for the big ridge, several grouse or ptarmigans got her all excited.  They ran along the ground a short distance before flying off.

Lupe saw several of these grouse or ptarmigans on the tundra.
Approaching Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. Lupe began her ascent heading for the snow bank seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.

The route up the ravine with the snow bank was steeper than expected, and the upper reaches were very rocky.  Lupe had to wait around quite a bit for SPHP.  She was already getting some great views of the Tormented Valley off to the E and NE.

Lupe reaches the snow bank. This upper end of the ravine she’d come up was very rocky. Photo looks SW.
Lupe had plenty of time to relax while waiting for SPHP. She has a great view of a large portion of the Tormented Valley from here. Canadian Customs along South Klondike Highway No. 2 is in view on the near side of Bernard Lake. The gravel pit near customs and the road Lupe followed through the forest are also visible on the L. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the ridgeline, she still had a very long climb ahead of her.  Fraser Peak’s long NE ridge had a series of large gaps or gashes running across it like the one she’d come up.  Just like at AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) and International Falls, these ravines were oriented SW/NE.  Lupe and SPHP found it easiest to stay well S of the steeper N edge of the ridgeline when trying to get past the gaps.

Between the gaps, Lupe had to climb up and over a series of steep ridges.  There was a lot of exposed rock, but for a long way there was also a fair amount of alpine vegetation.  Loop was often able to follow natural vegetated ramps zig-zagging up the rock formations on the ridges.

The gaps were sometimes full of broken rock.  Often there were large snow banks or hidden tarns.  Lupe almost always lost some elevation crossing these ravines.  The gashes made the climb significantly harder and more time consuming than going up a smoother, more even ridge would have been.

Whenever Loopster was on or climbing the ridges between the gashes, the views were tremendous.  She enjoyed a splendid panorama of a vast territory to the E.

Even on the lower portions of Fraser Peak’s long, rough NE ridge Lupe had fabulous panoramic views. Long, skinny Summit Lake in the Tormented Valley is seen below. White Pass is at the far end of Summit Lake on the R. Photo looks S.
Bernard Lake (Foreground) and Shallow Lake (L) form a continuous crescent down in the Tormented Valley, a great deal of which is seen here. The South Klondike Highway, Canadian Customs and gravel pit are all on the L. Photo looks NE.
Miss Giant Pink Tongue enjoying the day on the way up Fraser Peak.
Fraser Peak’s NE ridge was rough ground, but nothing too difficult or scary until much higher up. Photo looks W.
Lupe occasionally saw more grouse or ptarmigan. Photo looks S.
This grouse or ptarmigan didn’t seem worried about Lupe and SPHP passing by.
Looper on one of the ridges with a grand view of Summit Lake, White Pass (R), and many beautiful peaks beyond. Photo looks SSE.

After a long, winding climb over ridges and gashes, Lupe came to the last big gash in Fraser Peak’s main NE ridge.  She was above nearly all of the alpine vegetation now.  The gash was full of broken rock and snow.

Looking over the last big gash Loop had to get past. Photo looks WSW.
A certain Dingo was rather pleased to reach the huge snowdrift in the last big gash.
In addition to the big snowdrift, the last big gash contained a lot of broken rock. Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.) is the highest peak at Center in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

Once past the final gash, the toughest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead.  This was the steepest part of the mountain.  Lupe and SPHP were now much closer to the cliffy N side of the ridge.  The ridge narrowed considerably as the Carolina Dog scrambled ever higher.

Lupe stands above the last gash. The hardest, steepest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead. Photo looks WSW.
Fraser Peak is turning into quite a feat for my second Arctic Sisterhood adventure! Wonder what we’ll see from the top, SPHP?

American Dingoes are great scramblers.  SPHP frequently had to use hands for support.  A few super steep spots where there was a lot of loose rock and dirt were the worst.  The upper portion of the ridge narrowed so much that for the first time it was possible to see a path worn by other climbers.

SPHP proceeded cautiously, slowly.  A mistake up here would not be good.  Lupe was very patient.  Finally the steepest part of the climb was over.  The terrain remained very rough, but was rapidly leveling out.  Awesome cliffs were close at hand.

Getting close, but that’s not the summit yet. The rough terrain has already leveled out quite a bit. Photo looks SW.

Oddly enough, the scariest part of the whole climb was a short stretch of level ground.  Lupe was very high on the NE ridge when she came to a section that narrowed down to as little as 3 or 4 feet wide.  Only a 20 or 30 foot long stretch was this narrow, but the steep drops to the abyss on both sides were essentially cliffs.  This part of the ridge was flat overall, but covered with tilted rocks.  Fortunately, the rocks were small.

No significant obstacle rested upon this rock bridge in the sky, but the fearsome dizzying drops on either side gave SPHP pause.  Lupe waited calmly while SPHP tried to summon an ounce or two of courage.  Walking across that bridge of rock really wasn’t anything physically difficult at all.  Nothing to it actually.  It would take only a few seconds.  On the other side, the way to the summit was open.  This was it, the final test.  Several minutes passed.

SPHP patted Lupe and felt better.  Let’s do it!  Over in a flash.  Made it!  So pathetically easy, yet psychologically difficult.  Apparently the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood suffered no qualms.  She had trotted across like it was nothing.

At any rate, it was done.  The route to Fraser Peak’s summit was wide open.  Fear turned to joy!  Lupe was going to make it!

Lupe safely beyond the narrow spot (not pictured). The route to the summit is all cake from here! Photo looks SW.

In only a few more minutes, Lupe was approaching the summit area.  The top of Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) was divided into two minor ridges by yet another gash of moderate size.  Lupe and SPHP were closest to the lower NE section of the summit region.  Here, a large pole stuck up at the edge of a cliff to the E.  It had been visible for a long way from below, but SPHP had mistakenly taken it for an antenna or tower of some sort.

Lupe reaches the summit region. It was divided into two unequal parts by the gash seen at Center and R. The lower, smaller NE portion is ahead on the L. Some sort of large pole stood there at the edge of a cliff. Fraser Peak’s true summit is still farther ahead on the R. Photo looks SW.

Before continuing to the true summit, Lupe headed over to the curious pole to investigate.  The pole was at least 2 feet thick and perhaps 20 feet tall.  It was all bare wood except for a red painted figure resembling an odd Santa Claus carved into the upper end of the pole.  The figure faced NE gazing out beyond the cliff over the Tormented Valley.

Lupe arrives to inspect the odd totem pole on Fraser Peak. Photo looks S.

The significance of this strange totem pole wasn’t at all clear.  Lupe had seen similar native artwork in Carcross a few days ago.  The red figure almost assuredly was not Santa Claus, but no plaque or anything else was around to explain who or what he represented.

Lupe found nothing to explain the presence of this totem pole or the strange figure carved into it. Photo looks S.
Whoever the red figure represents, he has a tremendous view of the Tormented Valley. Photo looks NE.
If the strange character at the top of the pole would have been able to turn to face S, he would have had this incredible view of Summit Lake and the South Klondike Highway. White Pass is at far R. Photo looks S.

Having inspected the totem pole without learning much, it was time to go in search of Fraser Peak’s true summit, which had to be very close now.  Lupe went down into the gash separating the summit area into two sections.  The terrain was still rising as she headed SW up onto the larger, higher ridge.

A look at the gully or gash that separates Fraser Peak’s summit area into two separate ridges. The lower, smaller NE ridge is on the L. From the totem pole, Loop headed SW up onto the bigger, higher ridge on the R in search of the true summit. Photo looks SW.

The higher SW portion of Fraser Peak’s summit area encompassed 2 acres of rocky ground almost entirely devoid of vegetation.  The surface was uneven, but not steep.  Near the SW end, 4 minor high points were in contention for the title of true summit.  The two highest were a couple of large boulders separated by only 5 to 10 feet.  The W boulder seemed an inch or two higher than the E one.

Lupe hopped up on the W boulder to claim Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) as her first peakbagging success since becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) two days ago.  Loop had an eye-popping view of Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) (2,086 m) a couple of miles away to the SW.

Success! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands atop the highest boulder on Fraser Peak. Beyond her is gorgeous snow and glacier clad Taiya Peak. Photo looks SW.

As impressive and beautiful as Taiya Peak was, it was only part of a vast snow white panorama of dramatic mountains partially buried beneath massive glaciers extending to the W horizon.

SPHP recognized at least one of those high distant peaks.  Lupe had seen it only yesterday from another angle at the far W end of her explorations off the International Falls trail.  She was seeing it again here on Fraser Peak from a much higher vantage point.  Not until many months later while looking at maps did SPHP begin to suspect that peak might have been the Skagway High Point (8,239 ft.).

Wowee, SPHP! What a fantastic view! I’m sure glad we came to Fraser Peak. This is a spectacular peak for my second ever Arctic Sisterhood expedition. Simply amazing!
Another look toward the heart of the most glorious scene. Lupe had seen the high distant peak at far L only yesterday from the International Falls area, too. SPHP wonders if it isn’t the Skagway High Point (8,239)? Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe gives a one ear salute. The dark peak at the far R may be Mount Van Wagenen (7,041 ft.) on the Alaska/British Columbia border. Photo looks W.

After a stint at the true summit, Lupe moved to the next highest boulder only 5 or 10 feet away.  It appeared to be only an inch or two lower than the true summit.  From this E boulder Loop could see part of Summit Lake and the jagged snowy mountains beyond it to the SE.

Loopster on the 2nd highest E boulder on Fraser Peak. Part of Summit Lake is in view more than 3,000 feet lower. White Pass is at the far end of the lake on the R. Photo looks SSE.

The third highest rock on Fraser Peak was another large boulder 20 feet NNW of the two highest ones, but was clearly a little lower.  Another 30 feet beyond it to the NW was yet another high point on a small ridge.  This fourth high point was easily at least a couple of feet lower than the true summit, but was near the W edge of the summit area, making it perhaps the best seat in the house as far as views were concerned.

Lupe and SPHP headed over to the ridge where the fourth high point was located to take a look and have a break.  The Carolina Dog rested comfortably on a small cushion of vegetation next to the rocks.  Looper eagerly accepted water and Taste of the Wild.  Meanwhile, SPHP gazed out upon the splendid scenes in all directions.

The awesome panorama to the W. Taiya Peak is on the L. The valley on the R drains into Bryant Lake (not pictured). Photo looks W.
Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) (2,086 m) (L). Photo looks WSW.
Possibly the Skagway High Point (8,329 ft.) (far L) and Mount Van Wagenen (7,041 ft.) (far R). Photo looks W.
Skagway High Point (far L)? The rounded glacier in the foreground is on the NW slopes of Taiya Peak. Photo looks W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Loopster fuels up on Taste of the Wild while relaxing next to some of the highest rocks along the W side of Fraser Peak’s summit.
A spectacular look at the mountains S of the International Falls trail (which is below the far side of the big ridge in the foreground) where Lupe had been only yesterday. The higher L peak of the two closest sharp peaks at Center is Feather Peak (5,889 ft.). The highest peak on the L is Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.). The high point on the R is Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.). All of these mountains are across the border in Alaska. Photo looks SW.

It had taken a long time to climb Fraser Peak.  Lupe and SPHP lingered at the summit for over an hour.  Loop appreciated both the extended break and the views.  She was quite content taking it easy, or following SPHP around the summit looking first one direction then another.

The mountains N of Fraser Peak all had far less snow on them than the ones to the S, which were closer to the ocean. The S end of Bennett Lake is seen in the distance. The high peak next to it on the R is likely Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.). Photo looks NNE.
The very S end of Summit Lake and White Pass are seen below on the R. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Precious minutes flew by.  Sadly, the moment arrived when the sun said Lupe needed to move on.  One last look at that glorious view to the W.

Looking W from Fraser Peak. Taiya Peak on the L.

It was too grand to simply depart.  Would Loop like to go back to the true summit again?  She would!  A delaying tactic, but it still led to a sublime moment.

Conditions had been perfect.  This had been a truly glorious day and mountain.  And now, for the last time, Lupe stood perched high at the true summit of Fraser Peak.  Mighty, frozen treasures of the Canadian and Alaskan wilderness were on display beyond her.

Once again at the true summit of wonderful Fraser Peak.
A sublime moment.

Done.  Puppy, ho!  Onward.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood leapt down off the summit rock.  Better get a move on.  It would take SPHP forever and a day to carefully scramble back down that steep upper NE ridge.

Still on top of Fraser Peak, but starting back. A fair amount of the summit area is in view here. The totem pole can be seen at Center to the L of Lupe’s tail. Photo looks NE.

At the lowest end of the summit area at the top of the NE ridge, Lupe paused.  Looking back, she could see that odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole.  SPHP looked down the dizzying NE ridge.  Yowser!  If it had seemed steep on the way up, it looked incredible staring down upon it from way up here.

Lupe pauses at the top of the steep NE ridge. Part of Bryant Lake is seen below. Photo looks NE.
Lupe bid farewell to the odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole on Fraser Peak.

Of course, Lupe had hardly started down, when SPHP had to face the narrow rock bridge for a second time.  Having done it once already, it now seemed less intimidating.  Still a place for caution, but SPHP barely hesitated before quickly striding across.  Loop was over it in a flash, too.  The long, slow descent of the upper NE ridge began.

Lupe hadn’t paid much attention to Bryant Lake on the way up.  It had been out of sight until she was climbing the upper NE ridge, and then she had been facing the wrong direction.  On the way down, though, she was facing it.  Loop had plenty of time to study the lake while SPHP ever so slowly, bit by bit, carefully worked down the ridge.

Bryant Lake partially in view on the way down the NE ridge. Photo looks NNE.
A less obstructed look from farther down the ridge.

An awful lot of time had gone by when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the start of the gashes along the ridgeline.  The sun would still be up for a little while longer, but Loop was now in the shadow of the mountain.  Even this far down, the middle part of the long ridge seemed much steeper and the gashes much deeper than SPHP remembered.

Lupe was now having a grand time, though.  She was back where there was some vegetation.  She raced up and down, all around, sniffing here, there, everywhere, among rocks and ridges, tarns and snow banks.  She was often far, far ahead of SPHP.  Lost from sight, she would suddenly reappear in another direction, still running and sniffing.  From time to time, she returned happy and breathless to SPHP.

The terrain looked different going down.  SPHP had a hard time recognizing which gash Lupe needed to go down to get off the ridge.  The sun had set and light was beginning to fade by the time SPHP guessed and committed to a long gash full of rock and boulder fields.

By now, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was out of gas.  Three long days of adventures in a row and the Carolina Dog had shot her wad.  Loopster begged SPHP to stop and rest.  SPHP complied, but never for more than a minute or two.  It was going to be dark soon.  Being stuck way up here among steep boulder fields was not in the plan.

Happily, the chosen gash was the correct one.  There was that snow bank again.  Lupe finally made it off Fraser Peak’s NE ridge.  She got soaking wet and cold fording the creek instead of using her Dingo bridge.  On the road passing through the forest in near darkness, SPHP sang badly (a special talent) to ward off bears.  No bear dared take on that racket.  After reaching the gate, Loop took the side trail which SPHP believed was a shortcut back to the highway.

It was!  The side trail became a road.  Sure enough, it led Lupe back to the highway only 100 meters N of the pullout where the G6 sat all alone waiting for her return.  (11:12 PM)

Alpo, water, dinner, lights out.  Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) had been such a fabulous day!

On Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada 8-9-17

Trailhead Notes: The trailhead for Fraser Peak is the second big pullout 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2.  (The highway from Carcross to Skagway)  There are no signs, information or facilities on site.

The most direct 0.6 km (0.4 mile) long road to the gate at the connecting road leading to Fraser Peak is only 100 meters N of this pullout back toward Canadian Customs on the opposite side of the highway.  Look carefully and it’s not hard to find.  Loop and SPHP missed it, because trees and bushes have grown up sufficiently to hide this road from the highway.  Vehicle traffic is blocked at the start by several large boulders.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 78 – The Experimental Forest & Minnesota Ridge (3-9-14)

After 3 weeks of very cold weather, suddenly the forecast was for 70°F!  Lupe couldn’t have been happier.  An expedition was in the works!  Lupe ran over to Dog Heaven and got permission for her buddy, Sidney, to come along, too.  Big Sid was equally thrilled with this turn of events.  It had been nearly 3 months since the last time he’d joined Lupe on Expedition No. 72 back on her 3rd birthday in December.  This would be his 7th Black Hills expedition with her.

Before long, SPHP was parking the G6 along USFS Road No. 616 (9:36 AM, 48°F), a little N of its junction with Rochford Road.  This was in the SE part of a roughly 5 square mile area shown on the old USFS map as the “Black Hills Experimental Forest”.  What was experimental about it was never clear.  The whole area was ponderosa pine forest with a few aspens mixed in, indistinguishable from the rest of the Black Hills.

Snow was melting in the forest, as Lupe and Sidney set out on No. 616 going N.  The road was still hard snow-packed and icy.  Loop and Big Sid spent most of the time roaming the forest nearby having a blast, while SPHP trudged along the slick surface.  After 0.25 mile, a junction with USFS Road No. 660 was reached.  No 660 was clearly less traveled and looked more interesting, so Lupe and company took it.

At first, No. 660 lost elevation gradually.  It wound around near the S and then the W border of the Experimental Forest.  By the time it turned N, the road was gaining elevation steadily.  After a little while, Lupe was starting to get glimpses of views off to the SW.  However, along a fairly level section of road, she and Sidney saw something of much greater interest.  Off to the NE, something was moving in the trees!

Giant deer!  Lupe and Sidney were enthralled.  SPHP counted 17 elk for certain, and there were probably more.  It was the biggest herd of giant deers Lupe had ever seen.  The elk ran off as soon as they realized they had company, quickly disappearing from view.  So cool!

Continuing N, the road started gaining elevation again.  Lupe came to an opening in the forest with an unobstructed view to the SW.  The views were getting better.  Beyond the viewpoint, No. 660 angled NE re-entering the forest.  Lupe passed by a couple of big puddles on the NW side of the road.  The first one was an interesting yellow-orange color.

This first big meltwater puddle on the NW side of USFS Road No. 660 was an unusual yellow-orange color. Photo looks NW.

By the time Lupe passed the second puddle, she was approaching a ridge to the N.  No. 660 would soon turn E to rejoin No. 616 again, but the plan was to go NW toward Minnesota Ridge.  Shortly after passing the second puddle, Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP all left the road heading NW.  The dogs discovered a small meadow with the best view yet.

This small meadow was a little NW of where Lupe and Sidney left USFS Road No. 660. It had the best distant view yet. Photo looks WSW.

After enjoying the view from the meadow, Lupe and Big Sid continued NW, leaving the Experimental Forest.  The top of the ridge to the N was now only a little higher than where they were, so they climbed up on it.  The ridgeline was rather rocky and narrower than SPHP expected.  Lupe and Sidney followed it WSW a short distance before SPHP called a halt to check the map.

During the break, both dogs were extraordinarily helpful at reducing SPHP’s chocolate chip and oatmeal cookie burden.

Lupe and Sidney at the break point on the ridge. Here they proved most helpful at reducing SPHP’s chocolate chip and oatmeal cookie burden. Photo looks WSW.
So, SPHP, that pack looks kind of heavy. Are you quite certain there aren’t any more cookies in there I could help you with? Looking back ENE along the ridgeline. Although this ridge was fairly high, the views were nothing to write home about.

The map had shown that the S end of Minnesota Ridge was still more than a mile W.  When the cookie break was over, Lupe and Big Sid continued WSW along the rocky ridgeline.  The high rocky part soon ended, and everyone started down a slope going SW.  Lupe emerged from the forest at a big sunny open area where the forest appeared to have been clear cut.  From here, a logging trail led down to USFS Road No. 204.

Lupe and Sidney reached No. 204 at its high point at a minor pass.  They didn’t follow the road.  Instead, they crossed it heading W into forest and started climbing Minnesota Ridge.  As they gained elevation, the amount of snow and deadfall timber around increased rapidly.  Lupe expended a tremendous amount of energy leaping over deadfall and 2 foot high snowdrifts.

Eventually, a tall rock ledge appeared ahead.  Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP climbed up on it for a look around.  The former views to the S and SW were blocked by trees, but now snowy Custer Peak (6804 ft.) could be seen off to the NNW.  After admiring the view, SPHP led Lupe and Sidney NW picking a way along the ledge.

SPHP expected the ledge to slowly sink back into the easier surrounding terrain.  Instead, the ledge became even higher.  20 foot cliffs were on both sides.  Deep fissures in the rocks, combined with snow and small trees growing up in the cracks made traversing the ledge slow and tricky.  At a particularly wide crack in the rocks, Lupe and Sidney finally found a way down through a 40 foot long passage.

Looking back up the deep crack in the rocks that Lupe and Sidney used to get off the rock ledge.

Once off the rock ledge, Lupe and Sidney resumed a steady climb going NW through the forest.  Snow was everywhere now, perhaps 1.5 to 2 feet deep on average, with drifts up to 3 feet deep.  Lupe didn’t complain, but SPHP began to worry she was going to wear herself out and get cold.  Big Sid was well insulated, and being considerably larger, had far less trouble.

SPHP wondered why Lupe hadn’t reached USFS Road No. 203 yet?  If she went too far N, she would miss the road entirely.  Even though it meant losing elevation, it was time to change course and head SW to find the road.  It proved to be farther away than SPHP expected, but Lupe did come to it.  She turned N on No. 203, resuming her climb of Minnesota Ridge.

A side road heading W with a sign saying Green Gulch Loop appeared.  SPHP remembered this place.  Lupe had passed by here on a prior expedition.  At the time, Green Gulch Loop had looked like an interesting place to explore.  SPHP expected it would take Lupe up and over the ridge to the W then down into Green Gulch.

Not true, as it turned out.  The road began promisingly enough going W while gaining elevation, but before long Green Gulch Loop made a big curve back to the S.  Lupe and Sid started coming to a number of hillbilly cabins and old campers up on a relatively narrow ridge.  Signs at each property said “Private Property”, “Beware of Dog” or “No Trespassing”.  The fanciest home featured a big tattered Confederate flag flying on a tall flagpole at an exposed part of the ridge.

Lupe reached a place where it looked like the road ended.  A house and garage were practically right on Green Gulch Loop.  A sign said “Smile You’re On Camera”.  Another sign mentioned a dog.  SPHP hesitated, unsure if this was the end or not.  Although there were plenty of tire tracks in the snow, none of them were fresh.  No people or dogs were evident anywhere.  Deep valleys were to the E and W.

After a couple minutes, SPHP decided to see if Lupe and Big Sid could go around this property.  Everyone left the road skirting around to the W, away from the house and garage.  The maneuver succeeded.  Surprisingly, Green Gulch Loop did continue S beyond the home.  Lupe and Sid passed by a couple more decaying shacks along the way before they were completely beyond the strange hillbilly camp.

Green Gulch Loop stayed up high until the narrow ridge petered out.  Near the end, Lupe and Big Sid lost considerable elevation before arriving at an intersection where several USFS roads headed off in different directions.  Lupe had been here before on Expedition No. 51 nearly a year ago on 3-14-13.  Since it was time to start thinking about working back toward the G6, Lupe and Sidney took USFS Road No. 204 going E.  In about 0.75 mile, it would link up with No. 203.

By now the ice on the road was getting soft and slushy.  Wherever there wasn’t ice and slush, there was mud.  Fortunately, ice still prevailed.  Lupe and Sid were losing elevation, so it was a pleasant stroll.  The road turned NE and the intersection with No. 203 came into view ahead.  Surprisingly, another intersection was closer.  A road led S into a shallow valley with nice open ground.  A sign said this was Killoern Springs Road.  This road wasn’t shown on the USFS map, but the shallow valley looked appealing.  Lupe and Big Sid made the turn S.

After only a short distance, Killoern Springs Road turned W and climbed up out of the shallow valley.  However, SPHP recognized this place from Expedition No. 51, too.  A pole fence running E/W partially blocked the way farther S down the shallow valley, but an ATV trail could be seen continuing beyond the fence.  That was the way to go!  Lupe, Sidney and SPHP left Killoern Springs Road, went around the pole fence, and followed the ATV trail.

Lupe and Sidney had a great time in the shallow valley.  The ground was nearly level and open.  Snow was still present, but far less than had been up on Minnesota Ridge.  Both dogs ran around as they pleased.  Lupe was excited by several large birds which flew down the valley not very far above her.  A small stream appeared, a western tributary of Gimlet Creek.  Several times the ATV trail forded the stream, but the creek was so small even SPHP could leap across it.

The ATV trail forded this western tributary of Gimlet Creek several times, but the stream was so small even SPHP could simply leap over it. Photo looks SSW.
Due to the melting snow, the tiny stream had good flow.
Loopster and Sidney had a great time in the shallow valley leading to Gimlet Creek.

The shallow valley had been slowly turning SE.  After nearly a mile, it broadened out and turned directly E.  Another 0.25 mile brought Lupe to a small pond she had seen before on Expedition No. 51.  A nice bridge crossed the stream again at the dam.  Everyone went over the bridge.  Gimlet Creek could now be seen off to the E.  It flowed down another valley from the N on its way to its confluence with the tributary Lupe and Sid had been following.

Lupe, Sidney and SPHP headed E to Gimlet Creek, then turned N to explore part of this new valley, too.  Several more creek crossings were required, but it was still fairly easy to find ways across.  At the last crossing, a few boards helped SPHP get over the creek.  After going 100 yards farther, SPHP suddenly realized Lupe and Sidney weren’t here!  Where were they?  Turning around, SPHP saw them back near the last creek crossing.  Big Sid was watching Lupe.

Lupe came running toward SPHP.  She was carrying something in her mouth – a piece of deer leg!  Lupe had occasionally found pieces of deer legs and carcasses in the forest on prior expeditions, but none like this one.  This deer leg was red with blood!  Fur, a little meat, and sinewy membranes still clung to the bone.

Lupe considered this deer leg the find of a century!  She couldn’t have been happier if she had come across an ancient Egyptian tomb full of golden treasures.  To her the deer leg was a treasure!  She growled menacing warnings at Sidney whenever he got close.  Sidney had the good sense to stay away and show no interest.

Lupe was crazy for the deer leg.  She tore at it, cutting pieces of fur and sinew off using her molars like scissors.  She devoured what little meat and sinew there was, even though she wound up swallowing a lot of fur in the process.  Lupe didn’t care.  She acted like a ravenous wolf.  It all came very naturally to her.  She knew exactly what to do!

It was the find of a century! Lupe was crazy for this deer leg she found in the Gimlet Creek valley. She growled warnings at Sidney whenever he got close.

Lupe wasn’t about to abandon her deer leg, so SPHP watched while Loop did her best to consume every last morsel of meat or gristle she could tear off it.

A savage American Dingo devours a deer in the Gimlet Creek valley!

Finally, after 20 or 30 minutes, hardly anything was left of the deer leg other than fur and bone.  SPHP persuaded Lupe that it was time to press on.  She agreed with great reluctance.  Several times she ran back for her precious deer leg, picking it up and carrying it a bit farther.  At last, she finally dropped the deer leg for good.

The valley split into two valleys just ahead to the N.  Gimlet Creek flowed down from the valley that went straight N.  The other valley was dry and came down from the NE.  It was time to try to find USFS Road No. 660 in the Experimental Forest again, which couldn’t be much farther away to the E.  Lupe, Sidney and SPHP left Gimlet Creek going up the dry NE valley.

Lupe hadn’t gone very far when suddenly there was gunfire!  One shot, then another.  It was coming from the direction Lupe was headed.  The ferocious, deer-devouring Dingo vanished in an instant.  Lupe begged for SPHP’s help.  Hide me!  Hide me!  Hold me!  Protect me!  Sidney was completely unfazed.  He paid no more attention to the gunfire than he had to the rotten deer leg.

Several more gunshots rang out.  Lupe was desperate to get away.  Sadly, the Carolina Dog wasn’t far from where she and Sidney had earlier seen the herd of 17 elk.  SPHP was afraid the beautiful elk were being slaughtered.  It was a most depressing thought.

Sidney and SPHP turned SE to flee up and out of the valley, while Lupe kept begging SPHP to stop and protect her.  The valley wasn’t all that deep, but an anxious Dingo constantly leaping in the way didn’t make for a quick escape.  SPHP gave in and carried the concerned Carolina Dog partway up the hillside.

Shortly after the terrain started leveling out, Big Sid found USFS road No. 660 again.  By now a total of 5 or 6 gunshots had been heard.  SPHP put Lupe down again.  Everyone took off down No. 660 racing away to the S.  To Lupe’s enormous relief, no more gunfire was heard.  The rest of the way back to USFS Road No. 616 and the G6 was uneventful (5:06 PM, 50°F).

Lupe’s day with Big Sid in the Experimental Forest and on Minnesota Ridge was over, but her Expedition No. 78 adventures were not!  A little after midnight, SPHP woke to the sound of a Carolina Dog puking up her spaghetti dinner.  Oh, joy!  SPHP got up, cleaned up the mess, and snuggled in again with the queasy companion.

Ten minutes later, Lupe gave a repeat performance.  This time she threw up fur and grimy deer leg sinews.  Another cleanup ensued.  Lupe felt much better and slept soundly after that.  Expedition No. 78 officially ended in the morning when clean sheets and bedding were restored to the bed after a thorough cleaning in the washer and dryer.

Could there be any doubt, though, that given the chance to do it all over again Lupe would relish devouring the next deer leg she finds in the forest?  Of all the treasures Lupe has found on her many adventures, that spoiled rotten deer leg was the most wonderful, glittering prize of all!

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