Lupe – Page 204 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

3:12 AM, 36°F – Already seems like there’s a bit of light. Lupe was out of her blankie. Pulled it back over her. Keep the puppy warm! Too early. Back to sleep.

4:18 AM, 35°F – Definitely light out now, but the whole world is densely fogged over. Maybe a ground fog like the morning after Lupe climbed Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)? If so, it may burn away, but the weak Arctic Sun will take hours to do so. Meanwhile, nothing to do but sleep.

5:35 AM, 35°F – Except for the patch of boreal tundra right here, the whole world is invisible. Misting lightly. Loop went out. Everything’s cold and wet. She’s back in the G6 licking herself off. Have to wait for the fog to lift. Maybe Lupe’s next Dingo Vacation should be to some place with palm trees?

*Okay … so what are we thinking here, SPHP? Cause I’m thinking it’s back under the blankie time!*

8:48 AM, 38°F – The weakling sun has managed to make some progress against the fog. Can see 0.5 mile now. Shared a can of chili and a can of beef and barley soup with Looper. She’s back to dozing.

10:18 AM, 39°F – Sunshine on the hills. Visibility is a few miles. A patch of blue sky is off to the NW. Loopster still conked out! A small knoll exists out on the North Slope maybe 0.25 mile away. It’s lower than where the G6 is, but a bit higher than what’s around it. Should make a decent objective for Lupe’s farthest point N ever. Guess it’s time for her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

View of the first high ridge on the N side of the **Brooks Range** from the S edge of the **North Slope**. (Area near Dalton Highway milepost 278.) Photo looks SSE.

Loopster still catching some Z’s in the G6. She must really have been tired!

Daylight in the swamps, Loop!

Hmm? You mean get up? Can we even see the swamps yet, SPHP?

Yes, we actually can. Time for your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

Stroll to the North Slope Knoll? What’s that supposed to mean?

Off to the N or NW from here, I see a little rise, a knoll, only slightly above the surrounding terrain. It’s not far at all. We’re going to start what’s left of this morning off with a quick stroll over there. The knoll isn’t even as high as where we are now. Super easy. We’ll be back before you know it.

Oh! A little romp on the North Slope tundra? Sounds like fun to me! Any particular reason we’re doing this? It’s not much like you to want to go to a knoll, SPHP.

Yes, there is a reason. There’s a good chance that knoll is going to wind up being as far N as you and I will ever be in our whole lives. Remember your 2016 Last Mile North trek, which we did again only yesterday? This is like that, except the updated 2017 version of it. Out here on the North Slope just beyond the Brooks Range, you are 71 miles farther N than last year’s record.

So we aren’t going any farther N than this? Yesterday evening you were practically a nutcase about the North Slope!

Oh, I’ve thought about it a lot. If you could take the Arctic Ocean tour, we’d go for sure, but Dingoes aren’t allowed. I don’t think there’s much in the way of mountains we could climb between here and the ocean either. At least I don’t know of any. So maybe it doesn’t make sense to go any farther than this, though I am curious. Galbraith Lake and Lake Benchmark Mountain are as far N as I’d planned for us to go, so this is probably it. We are already a few miles N of both of them.

I see. So we’re just going to take this short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, oooh and aaah a bit looking at whatever we can see of the North Slope from there, then turn around and come right back?

Eh, yeah, guess that’s about the size of it. So, come on, let’s do it. We have bigger fish to fry after your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, too.

The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was a marvelous journey! Learned something right away. Where the tundra was yellow and gold, the ground was boggy and wet. Where reddish and pale green plants were dominant, small rocks and drier, firmer footing existed. The tundra had way more yellow and gold on offer than reds and pale greens, but SPHP found ways to link up the reds and greens sufficiently to avoid getting wet feet. Lupe sniffed and played wherever she pleased, unconcerned by such trifles as wet paws.

Lupe stands near the start of a long stretch of reds and pale greens leading toward the nearly imperceptible **North Slope Knoll** she was heading for. Photo looks NW.

The tundra also harbored large mushrooms, many more than half a foot in diameter. They weren’t super common, but it wasn’t necessary to look long before finding one, either.

The tundra harbored large mushrooms, often half a foot in diameter.

The North Slope Knoll turned out to be more like 0.33 mile from the G6, not 0.25 mile. Even so, the strange, incredible sensation of walking as far N as one ever would was over all too soon.

The knoll wasn’t all that perceptible even standing there right on it. The rise was almost a figment of SPHP’s imagination, amounting to little more than a short ridge only a few feet high. This was it, though. Likely as far N in the world as Lupe and SPHP would ever be.

A patch of green next to a barely medium-sized rock seemed to be as high as anything else. That rock would do. It could be the official endpoint of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Naturally, congratulations were in order. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, praising her for reaching the North Slope of Alaska beyond the Brooks Range.

The views of the North Slope were beautiful. Rolling tundra, small lakes, big hills. In the distance, small mountains. All empty and pristine, as if humanity’s teeming billions didn’t exist. The world looking as it always had for eons, yet for how much longer? A blink of an eye? A depressing thought, but only SPHP’s. To the American Dingo the world looked as it should, completely normal.

*Completely normal? Oh, I don’t know about that, SPHP! The **North Slope** is pretty and vast and empty enough, but is in desperate need of more squirrels!* Photo looks N.

On the patch of green at the end of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Photo looks NW.

Looper at the **North Slope Knoll**, as far N as she had ever been. She’s broken her old 2016 record by 71 miles here.

Looking back from the North Slope Knoll toward the Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline. The G6 is a mere dark spec on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 energized and enthusiastic! (10:58 AM, 40°F) The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, though short, had been an amazing, fun experience to remember always. Now it was time for Lupe to make an attempt on Lake Benchmark Mountain, the mountain at the far N end of the Brooks Range she had come so far to climb.

Feeling sad, SPHP drove S on the Dalton Highway. If the sky would clear up for a little while this afternoon, Lupe should have a tremendous view of Alaska’s North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain. However, she would never again actually be out on the North Slope, and as far N as she had just been at the little knoll.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway on her way S again. She hasn’t gotten far yet. **Galbraith Lake** is in view. Photo looks S.

The Galbraith Lake airport is beyond **Lake 2660** on the L. Photo looks SW from the Dalton Highway.

After crossing the bridge over the Atigun River, SPHP parked the G6 at a large parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway. Lupe would start for Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) from here. (11:32 AM, 42°F)

Lupe at the parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway just S of the Atigun River. SPHP mistakenly believed Lake Benchmark Mountain was the high distant ridge seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks N.

Lupe started out by crossing the Dalton Highway bridge back over to the N bank of the Atigun River. She continued N on the highway to a side road that went E to the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Following the oil pipeline service road is always fun and easy! Lupe had a good time racing around on the tundra nearby, while SPHP stuck to the road going N.

Looper on the Dalton Highway bridge over the **Atigun River**. **Peak 5308** is at Center. Photo looks E.

Loopster having a blast on the Alaska oil pipeline service road. Soon she would have to leave it to climb the big ridge on the R. Photo looks N.

A crow wonders what a Carolina Dog is doing way up here at the N end of the Brooks Range?

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline head off to the NW. Alaska’s North Slope is only a few miles away. Photo looks N.

A beautiful, high rounded ridge was NE of the Alaska oil pipeline. That ridge was the way to Lake Benchmark Mountain. After 0.5 mile, Lupe and SPHP left the pipeline service road to start climbing. The lower and upper slopes of the ridge were spongy, boggy, and full of tussocks. Only the steepest part of the ridge was relatively dry. Lupe followed a long ravine containing a small stream as she climbed NE.

Loop enjoys fresh bog water shortly after leaving the oil pipeline service road.

At the base of the beautiful rounded ridge Lupe was about to climb. The ridge proved to be surprisingly wet territory except where it was steepest. Photo looks ENE.

SPHP marched steadily upward while Lupe ran happily exploring the wide open spaces. Once in a while, the Carolina Dog roamed so far away she was completely out of sight. SPHP had to call her back then lest she decide the life of the wild Dingo was for her. Meanwhile, the views of Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River back to the S and W were becoming increasingly impressive.

After a good climb, Lupe has a terrific view back toward the **Atigun River valley**. Photo looks S.

Lupe went on beyond the end of the stream. The slope of the ridge was gradually diminishing, but Lupe never came to any definite ridgeline. She was wandering up an enormous slope that kept going higher. The whole place was spongy, boggy tundra, full of tussocks.

A big hill was ahead at the far N end of the ridge. SPHP believed this hill was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it, but wanted to get a view of the territory E of here in order to confirm that opinion. Although Loop went NE for what seemed like a long way, she never did get to a viewpoint. She just kept going higher and higher.

Ahead was a big hill that SPHP believed was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it. Efforts to get a view of what was E (R) of here failed. The slope just kept going gradually higher and higher that way. Photo looks N.

Before Lupe got high enough to see anything to the E, clouds and fog blew in out of the W. Hopefully they were temporary phenomena. Looper was looking forward to a glorious panoramic view of the North Slope from the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The fog made it certain Lupe wasn’t going to be able to get a view to the E now. She gave up on that idea, and headed straight for the big hill at the end of the ridge.

With fog starting to roll in, SPHP decided maybe Lupe ought to head straight for the big hill. Photo looks NNW.

Fog completely took over. The hill Lupe was heading for disappeared. So did everything else except immediately surrounding terrain. SPHP used occasional large isolated boulders to help keep Loop aimed in the right direction, sighting along them to the next boulder the American Dingo should head for.

Lupe reached the base of the hill, and began to climb more steeply. She went up a series of rocky ramps and benches. Although Lupe still came to patches of vegetation, overall this was much firmer ground free of the bogs and tussocks present lower down on the big ridge. SPHP had a far easier time here, despite the greater angle of ascent.

Loop keeps going up the rocky ramps despite the fog.

*Fog is getting thicker, SPHP! … I see that Loop. It’s about the only thing I see besides you.*

Partway up the hill, Lupe came to a level area where there was more vegetation again. By now a cold rain had started in. Suddenly Loop wasn’t having as much fun as before.

SPHP started becoming concerned about what little could be seen. A substantial cliff dropped into a gray abyss along the NE side of this level area. According to the topo map, it shouldn’t have been there. It most certainly was, though. To the NW, the hill went still higher, but nothing at all could be seen to the E except more fog.

Partway up, Lupe stumbles onto a flat spot with more vegetation again. To the NW, the hill rose still higher, but to the E there was a cliff on the NE side of the hill. According to the topo map, that cliff shouldn’t have been there. Photo looks NW.

That cliff was bothersome. It couldn’t be reconciled with the topo map at all, if Lupe was actually on her way up Lake Benchmark Mountain. SPHP was beginning to suspect maybe Lupe was too far W. Who could tell, though, in this rain and fog?

May as well check out the rest of the hill to the NW. Lupe climbed two higher ridges. She wasn’t at the top of anything significant yet. All she could see was another two even higher ridges farther up the slope. The highest ridge was shaped vaguely like what Lake Benchmark Mountain’s summit ought to look like, but hardly any detail could be seen. How much higher was it? SPHP guessed maybe 500 or 600 vertical feet.

The rain, which had slackened up for a little bit, now turned to snow. The snow wasn’t sticking yet, but added to SPHP’s growing sense of uneasiness. Lupe wasn’t uneasy. She was just getting plain old wet, cold and miserable.

Wandering around up on mountains at the N end of Alaska’s Brooks Range in rain and snow with almost no visibility? Maybe this was getting just a little too stupid. SPHP asked Loopster if she wanted to go back to the G6? The American Dingo gave her most ecstatic, enthusiastic response possible.

A bitter defeat, but there seemed to be no sensible alternative. Dang weather, anyway! How long had it been since Lupe had seen a truly sunny day now? Seemed like forever ago. Every day it was dodging clouds and rain. Lupe and SPHP headed WSW, starting back down.

Loop on a huge rock shortly after starting down. Photo looks NW.

I hate to give up, but we can’t see a thing. It’s raining or snowing all the time so I’m cold and soaking wet, and SPHP doesn’t seem to have a clue where we are. Under the circumstances a meal and a warm blankie back at the G6 is sounding mighty good to me! I mean, what would you do?

Lupe hadn’t lost much elevation yet when suddenly a break appeared in the clouds. Galbraith Lake was in sight! Out came the topo map for comparison with the lake to try to get reoriented again. SPHP quickly became convinced Lupe wasn’t on Lake Benchmark Mountain at all. She was somewhere on the upper S slopes of Peak 4700! She was indeed a mile too far W, as SPHP had begun to suspect a while back.

While SPHP was still pondering the implications of this discovery, the sky cleared off to the NW, too. Lupe could clearly see several high points over that way. Another review of the topo map convinced SPHP that Peak 4700 was really the next peak over to the WNW. In that case, Lupe actually was somewhere on Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The views disappeared again as another batch of clouds plunged the hill Lupe was on back into fog. Still, the brief break in the weather had been encouraging. Maybe conditions were beginning to improve? The hasty decision to return to the G6 was rescinded. Lupe and SPHP set off back up whatever hill or mountain this was.

The climb to the top wasn’t nearly as far as the fog had made it seem. After gaining only 200 to 250 feet of elevation, Lupe was approaching a line of boulders on what appeared to be part of a summit ridge. Looper scrambled up a gap between boulders. A survey pin could be seen only 20 feet away to the E! Hopes soared that maybe Lupe had just stumbled upon Lake Benchmark?

No, there wasn’t a benchmark, just a survey pin. Looper and SPHP searched the tops of the highest boulders along the ridgeline. Nothing. The top of the survey pin was clearly stamped “Coronary Apsoo No. 4”. Clear alright. Clear as mud. Meant absolutely nothing to SPHP. It may as well have been Chinese.

Lupe relaxes near Coronary Apsoo No. 4 (Center), while SPHP draws a blank as to what it meant. The obvious next step was to go to the higher point seen through the fog. Photo looks NE?

*Oh, of course I know what Coronary Apsoo No. 4 means! Who doesn’t? I’m just seeing if you know, SPHP. Come on, figure it out!*

Apparently Coronary Apsoo No. 4 meant “Go to the obviously higher point so close by that you can even see it through the fog, dummy!” Nothing else really sprang to mind. So after drawing a blank by this first survey pin, Lupe and SPHP headed NE on a short easy ridge walk to a noticeably higher point nearby.

The next high point appeared to be the top of the mountain. The summit area wasn’t huge but was plenty big enough to wander around a bit. No survey benchmark could be found up here, either, only another survey pin stamped with an equally cryptic message.

Lupe must be at the top of either Lake Benchmark Mountain or Peak 4700, but which was it? Lupe stood in the rain while SPHP tried to work it out. A slightly lower narrow rock ridge was in view to the E or SE, but didn’t look nearly large enough or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. A short distance to the N was a subpeak nearly as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t look right either.

In mist and fog Lupe stands at the top of the mountain. The question was, which mountain was it? The narrow, slightly lower rock ridge seen in the fog beyond Loop didn’t appear nearly large or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. Photo looks ESE?

Not too far to the N was a subpeak almost as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t match up with what the topo map showed for Lake Benchmark Mountain, either. Photo looks N.

On a sunny day, there wouldn’t have been any question where Lupe was. It appeared more and more that she might well be at the top of Peak 4700. However, if this was actually Lake Benchmark Mountain, there ought to be a “Lake” survey benchmark back somewhere along the line of boulders near the first Coronary Apsoo No. 4 survey pin. Looper returned to the pin and once more searched diligently along the line of boulders. Nothing.

One last thing to try. Loop and SPHP returned to the mountain’s summit, then continued over to the N subpeak. Nope. Not a thing here either. So this was almost certainly Peak 4700. Due to the fog, Lupe had climbed the wrong mountain!

The heavy mist turned to snow. Sheesh! Better head down.

Lupe lost 200 feet of elevation. The snow quit again. Already it wasn’t as foggy as higher up. Maybe Looper should angle SE hoping to catch a glimpse of Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like a reasonable course of action.

On the way down **Peak 4700**, the mountain Lupe had no intention of climbing, but did. Photo looks N.

Going down the ramps and benches, Lupe started to discern the faint foggy outline of some big hill off to the E. Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like it had to be. The Carolina Dog reached the fairly level area she had been to on the way up Peak 4700. She headed E near the cliff to the NE. Yes! No mistake. Lake Benchmark Mountain was in view!

The big hill at Center is the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks E.

Wow, there was still a pretty big elevation drop between here and there! At least it wasn’t as foggy out as earlier. The really good news was that what could be seen of Lake Benchmark Mountain looked climbable. Just a really big, fairly steep hill, but no worse than that.

Now or never! By the time Looper had worked her way down Peak 4700’s long SE ridge to a wide boggy flats leading to Lake Benchmark Mountain, she had lost 600 feet of elevation. She would have to regain it all plus another 200 feet to reach Lake Benchmark’s summit.

The climb was definitely steeper than Peak 4700 had been. The lower slope was easy. As things became steeper, lanes of vegetation leading up scree covered slopes helped. Lupe eventually reached areas of nothing but scree. Fortunately she had already regained a ton of elevation by then.

Starting up the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Easy down here, just a big hill! Photo looks NE.

Higher up on the scree slopes looking back at **Peak 4700**, which Lupe had just climbed in the fog by mistake. Photo looks W.

By the time the slope of the mountain moderated, Lupe was pretty high. She was back into fog, and it was snowing. The snow was starting to stick. A series of wide, relatively level areas covered with vegetation ran roughly E/W in long strips. These strips of land were separated by minor slopes or ridges, which presented walls of rock or lines of boulders in some areas, although it was always possible to go around them.

Lupe followed each of these vegetated bands some distance E before turning N and climbing up to the next one. The climbs were short and never difficult.

Loopster fairly high up on the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain now. She’s near the start of the E/W bands of vegetation separated by ridges where there was more rock. The bands to the N were higher than those to the S. Photo looks NNE.

Loop on another strip of vegetation with a typical rock wall providing separation from the next higher band beyond it. Photo looks NE.

After crossing several of these vegetated bands and climbing to higher ones, Lupe was faced with a more formidable, longer wall of rock. Was that the summit ridge? It certainly seemed possible. The Carolina Dog traveled E below the wall of rock until she reached a place where it was possible to scramble up. Nope. Not the summit. Off to the NE was an even higher rounded hill.

Lupe could get up on that rounded hill easily enough! She went right to it and was soon on top. Poking around a collection of rocks at the high point revealed nothing. Then suddenly, there it was! Lower down, a little farther E, some sort of survey marker was sticking up from a loosely assembled modest cairn. Was it true? Was that it?

Oh, yeah! This was it! Lupe had found the really, truly, genuine Lake Benchmark. Celebration time!

A wet Dingo stands next to the authentic Lake Benchmark.

*All I can say is, thank heavens it’s not stamped Coronary Apsoo No. 5!* Loop next to the Lake Benchmark (lower R). Photo looks W.

Although finding the Lake Benchmark was cause for joy and undeniable proof that Lupe was actually on the right mountain this time around, the survey benchmark was not quite at the top of the mountain. The topo map showed an elevation of 4,928 feet here. However, it also showed a small area within a 5,000 foot contour not too far away to the E.

If Lupe wanted to claim a peakbagging success, she needed to go find that higher ground where the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain had to be. After going through all this miserable weather and climbing the wrong mountain, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood most certainly did want to claim a peakbagging success here, too! Whether she could see anything or not!

So after congratulations and a brief celebration at the actual Lake survey benchmark, Lupe and SPHP headed E along a relatively narrow level ridge looking for the summit.

Joy turned to dismay. Loop hadn’t gone far, when up ahead, ghostly rock formations appeared in the fog. They looked potentially unclimbable for the American Dingo.

Lupe hadn’t gone far from the Lake survey benchmark when she saw a potentially unclimbable rock formation ahead. No!!! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP’s fears were unjustified. Lupe reached the summit area to find massive boulders and a wall of rock, but open lanes existed providing her an easy scramble to the top. And just like that, Lupe was there, perched at the undeniable summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)! Oh, happy day!

*Could maybe have picked a better day for this, SPHP! The mighty, spectacular, sweeping view of the North Slope from here isn’t all it’s been cracked up to be!*

The summit was a knob of rock perhaps 20 feet long and 5 feet wide. The S side of this knob was a solid rock wall 6 to 8 feet high next to a level patch of tundra. To the N, the knob sloped steeply away toward a chasm of undetermined depth. Of course, standing up there in light rain and fog, Lupe could see none of the glorious view of the North Slope that she had come so far to see, and would have had on a clear day.

Lupe astride the true summit. Most of the summit knob is seen here. Photo looks NW.

Lake Benchmark Mountain was a grand peakbagging success for the Carolina Dog, but a complete scenic fail. That really was a shame, since Lake Benchmark Mountain was likely destined to be the northernmost peak Loopster would ever climb in her whole life, and the views ought to have been spectacular.

Lupe thinking deeply profound Dingo thoughts about the significance of being way up here in N Alaska at the top of this fabulous mountain in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! I was just thinking, since the views are a total bust, did you bring anything to eat?*

At least Loop had gotten to see the North Slope this morning on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Better yet, yesterday evening she had arrived at a fantastic, magical moment to see it for the first time ever when there was rain and sunshine and rainbows and a sea of gold out there. Still would have been fantastic to see the North Slope from up here, but that’s the way it goes.

With no views, and no real hope of seeing them anytime today, there wasn’t much point in hanging around up here in the chilly rain for long. Shaking her cold, wet paw and trying to make her achievement sound as grand as possible, SPHP congratulated Lupe on her Dingo persistence and ultimate success in getting to the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Lupe loved the attention, but looked rather miserable.

Lupe was ready to go. A mere 10 minutes after arriving, Lupe and SPHP began the descent. By the ghostly rocks, Loop paused for a final look back.

Looking back at the ghostly summit. Photo looks ENE.

Leaving **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks ENE.

The rocky apparitions vanished from sight almost as soon as Lupe left them. She would never see them again.

Going back down the bands again was pretty easy. SPHP had built a cairn on the way up to help mark the route, but Loop didn’t come across it. It started snowing again for a little while, but turned to rain lower down on the steeper scree slopes.

For 10 minutes, the clouds lifted a bit. Lupe could see the Atigun River 2,000 feet lower at the bottom of a deep valley to the S. Off to the SW, where it was still foggy, the fog had a strange brownish tinge. It looked like smoke. Smoke? How could that possibly be? SPHP puzzled for a moment or two, before the fog thinned.

That wasn’t smoke! That was the golden boggy tundra way down there on the big ridge Lupe had come up at the start. Loop was going the right way. She was heading straight for it.

Lupe reaches the low ground W of Lake Benchmark Mountain. **Peak 4700** is in fog ahead. Lupe wasn’t going there again. She went SSW (L) instead. Photo looks WNW.

The fog returned. The big boggy ridge seemed endless. It rained the whole time. For a while, Lupe trudged along sopping wet and depressed at SPHP’s heels. Finally, something caught her interest. The Carolina Dog was off like a shot. Despite the rain, she ran great distances. Loop was having fun again! She ran and sniffed the rest of the way.

At last, Lupe was far enough down to get below the clouds. Galbraith Lake came back into view. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were down there, too.

Near the end of a long wet march along the huge boggy ridge, **Galbraith Lake** came into view again. Photo looks SW.

Getting there! The **S end of Galbraith Lake** is in view. Lupe still needed to get back down to the **Atigun River** (far L), but that wouldn’t take too long. Photo looks SSW.

Wouldn’t be too long now before Looper was warm and dry, snoozing snugly beneath her blankie with a full belly. Lupe never would see that glorious view of the North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain, but she had been up there. She had stood at the very top of a mountain at the N end of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska. Not many Dingoes can say that. (7:29 PM)

On Lake Benchmark Mountain, N end of the Brooks Range in Northern Alaska 8-19-17

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 71 – Coulsen Hughes Draw (11-30-13)

Start (9:30 AM, 29°F), 5 miles WSW of Deerfield Reservoir at the junction of USFS Roads No. 294 & 591 at the S end of Coulsen Hughes Draw.

Gray skies and a sub-freezing temperature. Patches of snow covered the dry, dead grass making the dark green of the forest appear even darker. A quiet scene, forlorn and remote. At the S end of Coulsen Hughes Draw, it felt like the start of winter.

Lupe wasn’t concerned. She was ready to go exploring! For her, it was the start of good times on Expedition No. 71. Her friend, Sidney, was along, too. This would be his 5th expedition with Lupe. Big Sid was also enthusiastic about the prospect of a day spent roaming the hills, now that he understood he wasn’t being dog-napped.

Lupe along USFS Road No. 294 at the start of Expedition No. 71. Despite the chill air and gloomy gray sky, Lupe was looking forward to a romp up Coulsen Hughes Draw with her friend Sidney. Photo looks W.

Abandoning the G6, Lupe, Big Sid, and SPHP started N up Coulsen Hughes Draw on USFS Road No. 591. Coulsen Hughes Draw is a moderately wide, shallow, grassy valley between two pine forested ridges. Snow covered much of the ground near the trees on the W side of the valley, but the road was close to the E side and largely snow-free.

On Expedition No. 68, Lupe and Sidney had reached the N end of Coulsen Hughes Draw from a different direction. It was about as far as they had gotten that time. SPHP’s old Black Hills USFS map showed that Crows Nest Peak (7,048 ft.) was only 2 or 3 miles farther NW from there. Lupe had never been to Crow’s Nest Peak. Maybe Lupe and Big Sid could find and climb it today, after exploring the length of Coulsen Hughes Draw?

Loop and Big Sid had only been running around sniffing for 15 or 20 minutes, when suddenly a vehicle could be heard coming down the draw. A pickup truck appeared with 3 guys in it dressed in camouflage and bright orange (the one defeating the other). SPHP chatted with them for a few minutes. They were elk hunters, but had seen nothing. Had SPHP? Nope.

Truth was, even if SPHP had, the hunters wouldn’t have gotten much help. Lupe and SPHP are more on the side of the elk.

The trek up Coulsen Hughes Draw was an easy, scenic, gentle climb. Lupe and Big Sid had a great time roaming at will.

Looking SSE back down Coulsen Hughes Draw.

Lupe on USFS Road No. 591 as it rounds a small hillside. Photo looks W.

Sidney near the forest at the edge of the valley. Looks like he’s spotted something!

A typical scene looking NW up Coulsen Hughes Draw. It was a pretty place for the dogs to run around. After the hunters went by early on, Lupe and Big Sid saw no one other than SPHP the rest of the day.

Lupe comes running back after an exploratory foray up into the forest.

As Lupe and Sidney traveled up the draw, they passed by several stock ponds. The valley was gradually becoming snowier. The ponds were all frozen. By the time they’d gone 2.5 miles, Loop and Big Sid were getting close to the N end of Coulsen Hughes Draw. One more stock pond was up ahead. Beyond it, Coulsen Hughes Draw split in two.

The valley was wider and snowier by the time Lupe and Sidney reached the upper end of Coulsen Hughes Draw. The last stock pond is up ahead hidden behind the earthen dam seen a little R of Center. Here the draw split in two. Beyond the stock pond, Lupe and Sidney took the branch seen on the L. Photo looks NW.

Even before Lupe and Sidney reached this final stock pond, SPHP recognized the larger branch of the draw going N (R) as being the place Lupe and Big Sid had made it to on Expedition No. 68 before starting back for the G6. The smaller branch of the draw going NNW (L) looked more intriguing. This branch was totally new to Lupe, and led more directly toward Crows Nest Peak.

USFS Road No. 591 went up the larger N branch. Lupe and company left the road to explore the smaller NNW branch of the draw. An easy 0.5 mile trek brought Lupe to another dirt road. This had to be USFS Road No. 157, although the only sign present was an old wooden one that didn’t mention No. 157. It said only “Coulsen Hughes Draw” and pointed back the way Lupe had just come.

At this point, Lupe and Sidney were at least halfway to Crows Nest Peak, which was still another 2.5 or 3 miles to the NNW. However, SPHP’s USFS map showed no roads at all leading any farther in that direction. Going NE on No. 157 would only take Lupe away from Crows Nest Peak. Going W, the road disappeared into a dense forest. It would eventually lead to Miller and Procunier Springs, which were at least a little closer to Crows Nest Peak.

The last day of November is short. Time would be an issue. SPHP decided on a more direct route. Lupe and Big Sid crossed No. 157, covered the last of the open ground at the end of Coulsen Hughes Draw, and plunged into the forest traveling NNW straight for still unseen Crows Nest Peak.

There was considerably more snow in the forest than on the open ground in Coulsen Hughes Draw, but it wasn’t too bad. Before long, the terrain leveled off and looked like it was about to start descending. SPHP thought it best for Lupe to stay high. Off to the W was a higher ridge, so Lupe, Big Sid, and SPHP turned that way to gain as much elevation as possible.

The top of the ridge was all forested with no views in any direction. Lupe and Sidney turned N again and continued onward, picking a way forward through the snow, low juniper bushes, and scattered deadfall timber. Although the terrain went up and down a little, SPHP thought Lupe was still gaining net elevation, and hoped to get a glimpse of even higher ground toward Crows Nest Peak at some point.

Lupe started coming to little-used logging roads. Since travel was easier on the roads, Loop and Big Sid followed them for short stretches when they seemed to be going the right direction. Along one of these roads, suddenly Sidney was staring straight ahead. Movement in the trees! Sidney had spotted 3 of Lupe’s “giant deers”! Lupe hadn’t seen them yet, but the elk had seen Sidney. They were already disappearing into the forest.

The giant deers made another appearance 10 or 15 minutes later. This time both Sidney and Lupe saw them and took off after them. The elk had a huge lead, however. Within a couple minutes, both Loop and Sid gave up and returned, the elk long gone.

The logging road Lupe was on ended in the forest. Although it seemed like Lupe was quite high, no views existed in any direction. SPHP led on through the forest trying to head NNW while staying on the highest ground possible. Presently, open ground could be see ahead between the trees. Before reaching it, Lupe came to another logging road. The logging road took her to the edge of a long, wide field.

After leaving Coulsen Hughes Draw and USFS Road No. 157 behind, SPHP tried to lead Lupe and Sidney through the forest NNW toward Crow’s Nest Peak. Lupe ultimately arrived at this long, wide field. Photo looks S(?)

Intrepid American Dingo explorer Lupe on her Expedition No. 71 search for Crow’s Nest Peak.

The new road divided almost immediately upon entering the field. Lupe had her choice of going S while gradually losing elevation, or going NW gradually gaining elevation.

Lupe and Sidney followed the road going NW up a hill. Soon the land leveled out on top. A few inches of snow were on the ground. Another group of 4 or 5 giant deers disappeared NE into the forest, but this time only SPHP saw them.

Near a stand of aspens, the road divided again. Lupe had her choice of going W or N. A marker was at the intersection. SPHP eagerly anticipated this possible clue to how close Lupe was now to Crows Nest Peak.

At the top of the hill, the road leveled out and passed by this stand of aspens. Beyond the aspens, the road divided again. Approaching the intersection SPHP could see a marker ahead, and looked forward to this possible clue as to how close Lupe and Big Sid were to Crows Nest Peak. Photo looks NW.

What the marker said came as a complete shock. No. 157! The same road Lupe and Sidney had left at the N end of Coulsen Hughes Draw! How was that possible? Lupe and Sidney scarfed up Taste of the Wild, taking a lunch break while SPHP sat on a log staring dumbfounded at the USFS map while pondering the implication of this news.

The map didn’t show No. 157 coming anywhere near Crow’s Nest Peak. Of course, the USFS map wasn’t very detailed. It was possible unshown minor side roads branching off No. 157 did. However, side roads would normally have an additional designation after the “157”, and this marker didn’t. Hmmm. SPHP shared a cheese stick with Looper and Sidney. The cheese was much appreciated.

The most likely conclusion SPHP could come up with was that Lupe and company had not been going N, but W. SPHP must have become disoriented somewhere along the way. With no landmarks or views, and the sun hidden all day by clouds, it could have easily happened. Oh, well. Now what? SPHP was no longer certain where Lupe was, or which direction was which.

Snack time was over! Lupe was still going to find Crow’s Nest Peak! SPHP led Loop and Big Sid along the road that supposedly went W. That lasted only a couple of minutes. Peering through the forest N of the road, it looked like the terrain was about to start losing elevation in that direction. Maybe there would be a view from the hillside? Lupe, Sidney and SPHP abandoned the road. Back into the forest! Onward!

Soon a view did appear. A noticeably higher ridge could be seen farther N. Crow’s Nest Peak? It looked like it was still 2 miles away, about right if Lupe had been going W earlier instead of N. Even though it meant losing elevation, SPHP decided to head straight for that ridge.

Lupe and Sidney were still having a great time! They enjoyed the march down the forested hillside. Lupe came to two large water tanks. Water was pouring into one of them from a pipe. A small overflow stream trickled down the hillside below the water tanks forming an ice flow.

Lupe followed the ice flow as far as it went, proceeding down into a valley. As soon as she got to the bottom, she regained lost elevation climbing up the other side. At the top she made a turn to the W, and once again emerged from the forest at the edge of another long, wide field.

About this time, the cloud cover started breaking up. It became possible to discern the position of the sun. SPHP thought Lupe had been going NW. The sun said she had been going SW, or maybe even straight S. Crazy! Simply crazy! One thing was certain, though. There’s no arguing with the sun.

A period of wandering through big fields and pastures began. Lupe started off heading first NW then N according to the sun, though it all felt wrong to SPHP. As near as SPHP could figure out, Loop was somewhere N of Miller and Procunier Springs. If true, Crow’s Nest Peak (7,048 ft.) was still as much as 2 miles N. However, from none of this territory could Lupe see the high ridge she had seen earlier.

The Carolina Dog came to a number of roads (all unmarked) and fences. After traveling N and circumnavigating a wooded area in the middle of an enormous field, Lupe made a foray into a forest even farther N. Traveling E near the forest’s edge, she came to another long stretch of open land extending NE from the enormous field. This area looked promising, but the sun was now clearly past its zenith. Lupe retreated S across the enormous field again.

Near the S edge of the field, Lupe and Big Sid found another road. This road was marked No. 157.2C. A short journey E on it led to a fallen log, suitable as a rest area. Lupe and Sidney finished off the Taste of the Wild. SPHP shared another cheese stick with them, while consulting the map.

Looking N back across the enormous field. SPHP remains convinced that Lupe and Sidney had come within almost a mile of Crow’s Nest Peak while on the far side.

Sidney on USFS Road No. 157.2C. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe relaxes in the sun on dry ground next to the rest spot log.

Big Sid relaxes, too, wondering what’s next?

*Say, SPHP, I realize this is just crazy talk, but have you ever considered investing in a GPS device, or even just a decent compass? Maybe then we could actually get to where we’re going!*

*I second that motion! Also, how about putting some more supplies in that pack? A bite of cheese stick every 3 hours just ain’t cutting it for me!*

The map still didn’t show USFS Road No. 157.2C. It wasn’t any more enlightening than it had been earlier. Sigh.

Turning S and crossing the enormous field again had been an admission of defeat as far as reaching Crow’s Nest Peak was concerned. It wasn’t going to happen. Not today, anyway. Way out in the western high country of the Black Hills on the last day of November with the sun starting to slide toward the horizon, the only thing that made sense was to figure out where Lupe was, and begin the journey back to the G6.

SPHP decided Lupe should head W on No. 157.2C staying near the big fields. Sooner or later, the road would lead back to No. 157, probably right to that intersection near the grove of aspens where Loop and Sidney had taken their first rest break.

Even if one measly bite of cheese stick was inadequate, the second rest break was over. Onward! Big Sid seemed a little tired, but Lupe was still full of energy as they headed W on No. 157.2C.

A last look NNW across the enormous field. Somewhere out there, not too far away, was Crow’s Nest Peak. Lupe and Sidney weren’t going to reach it today.

Time to start for home! Big Sid heads W on USFS Road No. 157.2C, seemingly a bit tired. Lupe still had energy to bound around. Here she’s standing at the edge of the forest. Photo looks WSW.

No. 157.2C went W only far enough to sweep around the W end of the forested hill to the S. Upon reaching the other side, it wound E and SE all the way back to the intersection with No. 157 near the grove of aspens. At least that had worked!

It would have been easy to simply follow No. 157 all the way back to Coulsen Hughes Draw, but now that SPHP was certain where Lupe was again, there wasn’t as much urgency as before. Lupe and company took a snowy road heading S from the aspen grove. Lupe could explore a different valley W of Coulsen Hughes Draw this way.

This route was beautiful and a pleasant trek. Lupe found a squirrel to bark at. Her excitement revived Sidney’s spirits as he got into the act, too. Another adventure was ahead. Lupe and Sidney saw 6 or 7 giant deers, the biggest herd yet! Oddly, they had been congregated near a large skeleton. As the live elk ran off, Lupe and Big Sid carefully investigated this most interesting find.

Lupe and Big Sid cautiously sniff an old skeleton. For some odd reason, 6 or 7 live elk had been congregated near it.

Lupe reached USFS Road No. 294 again a couple miles WNW of where the G6 was parked. SPHP was pretty certain she had come down the Dowell Spring drainage after passing E of Dowell Spring itself.

Instead of staying on No. 294 the rest of the way, Lupe and Sidney traveled through the grassy valley just to the S of it. More to sniff! More to explore! Although the sun was still shining on the ridges, all was in shadow down here.

After going a mile E, another road left No. 294 going first SW, but curving SE as it went up a side valley. SPHP was seized with a desire to see the sunset. Lupe and Sidney started up this side valley, eventually climbing the W side of it. Everyone reached the top of the ridge to the W, but there was no view due to the thick forest. All that could be seen was a final, filtered, glimmering between the trees.

With the last of the sunlight gone, a feeling of solitude descended. The sky was clear. No colorful sunset could develop. Still, quiet, remote. That was this place, this moment.

Still, quiet, remote, cold and dark was coming. Better get going!

Sidney was done. Filled with joy when he finally saw the G6, he trotted ahead of Lupe and SPHP as fast as tired paws would take him. He stood waiting for SPHP to arrive to open the door. Big Sid jumped in without the slightest hesitation the instant the door opened. Home, James!

It was nearly dark, but Lupe wasn’t in such a hurry. She was used to long days exploring. The Carolina Dog paused for several minutes, still sniffing the light breeze. Maybe she knew winter really was coming, and she wouldn’t be back in the high western hills again for a long time.

Lupe hadn’t made it to Crow’s Nest Peak, but Coulsen Hughes Draw had still been an adventure. Together with Big Sid, the Carolina Dog had out-hunted the hunters, and seen the giant deers. No one was shot dead or wounded as a result. Everyone, including the giant deers, would live to see more adventures in the days to come. End (4:44 PM, 27°F)

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out her Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!