Day 5 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!
8:08 AM, Donelson Lake – What a glorious morning in the Beartooths! The Carolina Dog stood perched on Camel Hump Rock along the N shore of gorgeous Donelson Lake. The lake’s surface rippled gently in a light breeze, Lonesome Mountain (11,399 ft.) in view a few miles to the SSE.
SPHP had the pack ready to go. Finally, a day when it wouldn’t be so blasted heavy! Lupe’s tiny house, the sleeping bags, and some other stuff could be left behind, since the plan was to return to Donelson Lake this evening.
Time’s a-wasting, Looper! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Heading NNE, the American Dingo started up a steep slope, beginning a 2+ mile trek up Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), a destination coveted ever since Lupe had been to Sky Pilot Lake more than 7 years ago. Lots of rocks on this slope, but plenty of green stuff, too, so pretty easy. Speed was limited only by what SPHP’s heart, lungs, and legs could manage. Periodic brief rest breaks provided opportunities to survey the beauty of Donelson Lake and surrounding region as Lupe worked her way higher.
Several particularly enormous boulders were visible along the upper edge of the steepest part of this first slope. By the time Lupe got up to them, the view of Donelson Lake was amazing!
Yesterday SPHP had actually considered dragging the tiny house way up here. Despite the view, SPHP was now glad Lupe had camped down by the lake instead. Too much rock! Good spots to camp, if they existed at all, were few and far between.
Continuing N, the slope steadily decreased. Lupe reached a flat region at 10,800 feet NE of HP10814. This area was full of rocks, too, but rocks of moderate size, scarcely slowing the pace of advance at all. Making great progress, Loop entered a giant amphitheater surrounded by high rocky ridges, open only back toward the S. Vegetation began reappearing as she journeyed on.
The highest and most formidable ridge along the amphitheater rim was toward the NW, the direction Loop needed to go. A bit of a break existed near the center of this wall of rock, but SPHP hoped the Carolina Dog wouldn’t have to try it. The topo map provided reason to believe it would be a lot easier to go around the NE end.
Approaching the ridge, Loopster climbed steeply again on grassy slopes. Even as she got closer, going over the ridge still looked unappealing. The Carolina Dog turned NE, climbing less aggressively along a broad sloping bench that had a fair amount of vegetation. SPHP hoped the ridge would peter out as the topo map indicated.
Drawing near the NE end of the wall of rock, the terrain steepened and rocks grew in size. Reaching a lower part of the ridgeline, Lupe could see the rugged SE arm of Sky Pilot Mountain beyond a chasm. Nearby, a snowbank lay melting in the flat area shown on the topo map.
Lupe had made it out of the amphitheater. The good news was that it was now clear the American Dingo could get around the NE end of the wall of rock that had been blocking the way. The bad news was what lay ahead on the other side. Staying on another snowbank to avoid large talus, Lupe turned WNW making a short climb up closer to the NE end of the rock wall for a better view. Yeah, it was all the same.
Ahead, in the area behind the wall of rock Lupe had been trying to get past, a gully 200 or 300 feet wide rose gradually to the WSW. The entire thing was choked with large talus. The N side of this gully was an even more formidable ridge, another steep wall of even larger talus 150 feet high. Toward the E (R), a snowbank could be seen above it.
Absolutely no way around this one! Dismayed by the task at paw, Lupe and SPHP began the painfully slow trek across the gully.
The talus wall on the N side of the gully looked most formidable directly across it, so Lupe and SPHP carefully rock-hopped W up the gully for a while. Maybe Looper could either get to a better place to turn N, or the talus would shrink and become easier to deal with farther up the gully?
Neither wish was granted. Although Loop made some progress up the gully, the dreadfully slow slog yielded little in way of results.
Getting nowhere! Might as well pick the best looking spot close by and try it. Lupe turned NW, angling toward the giant talus ridge.
As always, climbing amidst huge talus was an intimidating and difficult task. Despite Loopster’s excellent scrambling skills, SPHP became more and more concerned as each success led only to yet another challenge. If Loop missed a single jump, she could easily fall and break a leg. Potentially a fatal disaster.
Only yesterday, Lupe’s friend Jobe Wymore had expounded numerous times on the dangers presented by large talus and boulder fields. Maybe SPHP ought to consider putting an end to these treacherous excursions so far from help? One thing was for certain, if the rest of the way was anything like this, Lupe was never going to get to the top of Sky Pilot Mountain.
It happened. Lupe missed a jump! Not completely, but for a moment she hung on the edge of a boulder, frantically scrambling to keep from tumbling backward 10 feet down onto the rocks below. Looking on in horror, SPHP was in no position to help. Clawing for all she was worth, the American Dingo regained control. Made it, but a close one!
The nerve-wracking climb continued. One obstacle and false summit after another. Behind Loop, the views kept improving.
Loopster was getting higher. This couldn’t go on forever! At last, the slope began to diminish. The talus shrank a bit, as the upper snowfield came into view. Once Lupe reached the snow, rapid movement became possible again. Climbing N to a rounded snow top, she then turned NE, descending slightly as she headed for a flat region beyond the snow.
What was in sight ahead was tremendously encouraging! Beyond the snow, the terrain consisted of small rocks and even some vegetation. To the NW was a shallow dip followed by a hill leading to a vast region above that could only be partially glimpsed from here. The hill wasn’t all that rocky and looked like an easy climb.
Woo-hoo! We made it, Loop! Avoided disaster, and beyond the talus!
Not so sure about that, SPHP.
What are you talking about? That next hill is a cinch!
True enough! I’m talking about the avoided disaster part.
Huh? What disaster? In the end, you made that heart-stopping leap.
Yup, but look behind you, SPHP!
Fabulous view! So where’s the disaster?
Your pants!
A large tear had a big flap of the seat of SPHP’s britches hanging open.
Oh! Heh. Now that you mention it, it did seem a mite breezy back there, but I’d hardly noticed. Guess that’s what I get for using my best little girl techniques on the scary stuff.
You’ll never win any points for style when it comes to your mountain climbing techniques, SPHP.
Style, schmyle! Who’s ever going to see that anyway? Not a soul up here! I’m more worried about staying in one piece. Come on, Looper! You’ve got a mountain to climb, and somewhere I’ve got a mountain goat to moon.
The American Dingo headed N toward the edge of the canyon to the NE, staying on high ground on the way to the next hill. Off to the SW was a commanding view of some of the same territory seen yesterday with her friend Jobe, but this time from 800 feet higher up.
Upon reaching the edge of the canyon, Lupe saw a fabulous sight, one she hadn’t seen in more than 7 years. More than 900 feet lower, there was deep turquoise blue Sky Pilot Lake! Even the hill overlooking the lake where Loop had rested the first time she’d ever seen it was in view.
The Carolina Dog also had a stunning view of that fearsome SE arm of Sky Pilot Mountain. Good thing that high point way out at the end wasn’t the true summit! Didn’t look like Dingo territory at all.
Carrying on, Lupe started up the next hill. After gaining 200 feet or so, the terrain leveled out. To the N was a long gradual slope, already wide and getting wider. The ground was strewn with small rocks amid tundra vegetation. No significant obstacle in sight!
With only a mile to go now to the summit, and such a vast expanse of easy ground ahead, suddenly it was looking like the American Dingo had Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.) in the bag! For a long way, Lupe made rapid progress. In fact, all of a sudden she took off like a rocket! What the heck?
Oh! Here was SPHP’s big chance to moon a mountain goat, 4 of them, in fact. Loop had dashed off to tell them all about it. However, they were a very long way away. The light brown speck racing toward them finally decided it wasn’t worth the effort and came racing back. She arrived sides heaving and long pink tongue hanging out.
Don’t think they were interested, SPHP! They weren’t going to come.
Probably just as well, Loop. I wasn’t that keen on it myself.
After a couple of bowls of water, and a few minutes to regain her cool, calm composure, the march higher resumed. Much of it along ground Lupe had just covered twice at top speed, but it was all new to SPHP.
The trek eventually steepened somewhat. The ground became rockier. Vegetation shriveled and disappeared. Rocks steadily grew in size and number, but not enough to significantly slow progress. Meanwhile, the views were becoming even more tremendous. At last the terrain began to flatten out again. Lupe reached and crossed a snowfield. The summit couldn’t be much farther.
By now, Looper had already passed W of Sky Pilot Mountain’s NE arm. The ridge she was taking N was no longer as vast as the region she’d left behind. Although slowly narrowing, it was still plenty wide. More and more talus was appearing, but the gentle slope and general presence of less challenging lanes through it all enabled reasonably swift progress.
Keeping an eye out for the true summit, SPHP hoped it wouldn’t be some enormous boulder or rock formation beyond Lupe’s capabilities.
An unusual rock appeared ahead. Long, relatively thin and narrow, it sat jutting out toward the SSW. Clearly not the highest rock around, but certainly getting up there and quite distinctive, an easily identifiable landmark.
12:39 PM, Sky Pilot Mountain summit – 300 feet N of Diving Board Rock, a couple of pinkish-tan boulders sat perched along the E edge. Separated by 20 feet, of modest size and about the same elevation, they appeared to be the highest rocks on Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.). Happily, Lupe could easily get up on both of them.
SPHP decided the larger rock, which was toward the N, was most likely the true summit, although a couple more rocks a little to the W now also looked like they might possibly be in contention. Hardly mattered, since Looper could visit all of them before departing.
Hearty congratulations were in order! After 7 years of dreaming about this moment, an American Dingo sat proudly at the summit of Sky Pilot Mountain. With great enthusiasm, SPHP shook her paw and praised the accomplishment, while Lupe seemed truly pleased.
The ridge was still 50 feet wide almost all the way to the N edge where the mountain dropped away, which was another 50 feet beyond the true summit boulder. A small cairn sat a little off to the NW. Lupe visited the cairn before taking a tour of the incredible views.
Nearly 2 miles off to the N, a huge, flat-topped wall of rock sat on the far side of the upper reaches of the gaping West Fork of Rock Creek canyon. This wall was Sundance Mountain (12,262 ft.). The top of Bowback Mountain (12,351 ft.) was visible beyond a low point near the center.
Two mountains dominated to the NE. Whitetail Peak (12,551 ft.) was a long, jagged, narrow ridge. More distant Silver Run Peak (12,542 ft.) sported two distinct summits and appeared more massive. Two small lakes could be seen in this direction, too. Lake 10183 SW of Whitetail Peak was a milky turquoise color. The other lake wasn’t shown on the topo map. Considerably smaller, it filled a depression once occupied by the Hopper Glacier.
Beartooth Mountain (12,351 ft.) and others that had been visible on the way up were off to the SE. To S and SW were distant panoramic views.
The most enchanting views of all were to the W and NW. Lupe was a mile closer to Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) than she’d made it with her friend Jobe Wymore yesterday. More than 1,600 feet higher than Pass 10380 had been, Sky Pilot Mountain was a tremendous vantage point!
The American Dingo could see all of Varve Lake, where she would have camped last night if Castle Mountain hadn’t been abandoned, and two higher lakes in the direction of Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.), as well.
The view of Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.), Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.), and Rainbow Peak (12,540 ft.) was stunning! Lupe went way out to the N edge of Sky Pilot Mountain for the best possible look.
Lupe was as high as that big snowfield on Castle Mountain that had caused such consternation yesterday. This was a great opportunity to get some terrific photos showing the entire S face of the mountain! SPHP took a bunch, zooming in on that problematic snowfield in a few. Maybe Jobe or others would find them useful some day?
The weather was perfect! Now and then a light S or W breeze came up. Taking in the grandeur of the Beartooths in all directions, Lupe and SPHP rested or wandered about the summit region. 7 years of waiting for Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.) were over. Hard to believe Lupe was really here! SPHP congratulated the Carolina Dog multiple times.
A precious hour of glory and more slipped by. Sadly, magic never lasts. Reality must be faced. Once again, Lupe sat perched at the true summit.
With great reluctance, the return began. Within minutes, Loop reached Diving Board Rock again. The Carolina Dog was willing to scramble up onto it, but chose not to venture out to the end. She had no intention of doing a Dingo dive.
Of course, Lupe still had hours of Sky Pilot Mountain fun to look forward to during the descent. She never did see the mountain goats again, but did venture over to the W side of the vast sloping plateau far enough to look down on Flat Rock Lake, which she had been near, but seen only part of yesterday.
Didn’t take long to get back to the snowfield overlooking the talus ridge and gully. Looper tried her luck staying farther E down through all the talus, but this made no discernable difference. Still a time-consuming, cautious, somewhat scary down climb followed by a super slow trek across the gully. No mishaps, though, so all was well!
The rest was easy. Around the NE end of the first talus ridge and down the grassy slopes of the amphitheater to the rocky plain at 10,800 feet. Before long Looper was back by the enormous boulders along the upper edge of the last slope leading down to Donelson Lake. Near the N shore, a minuscule orange and gray dot confirmed that the tiny house was still there waiting for the American Dingo’s return.
The N shore of Donelson Lake was destined to be home again for a very lucky Dingo for another evening. How beautiful it all was, and what a fabulous dream come true Sky Pilot Mountain had been!
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Sky Pilot Lake, Beartooth Mountains of Montana 7-17-13
Lonesome Mountain in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana 8-3-14
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