Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 157 – Toiling Toward Tomaha (2-18-16)

Lupe was back!  The G6 was parked again at Victoria Lake Road near its intersection with Sheridan Lake Road.  (8:37 AM, 59°F)  Lupe had unfinished business – adventuring business – in the area.

A week ago, on Expedition No. 156, Lupe meant to climb Commissary Point and Tomaha Point, but due to a circuitous route chosen by SPHP involving climbing the wrong mountain, Lupe only made it to Commissary Point (4,590 ft.).  Tomaha Point had eluded her.  Now that the area was more familiar, Lupe was going to make another attempt to reach Tomaha Point (4,710 ft.).

Lupe was happy to be out in the Black Hills again.  She was eager to hit the trail and begin exploring.  It was an unbelievably beautiful day that was going to bring record-setting warmth for this date.  Lupe and SPHP set out heading N on a single track trail.  Tomaha Point was 4 miles to the NW.

Lupe was happy to hit the trail going N from Victoria Lake Road.
Lupe was happy to hit the trail going N from Victoria Lake Road.

Lupe was having a blast sniffing and running around in the forest, but it didn’t last long.  Within 5 or 10 minutes of starting out, she heard a loud bang.  Gunfire!  Lupe raced to warn SPHP.  She was scared, and wanted to stop and hide.  SPHP knew that Lupe wasn’t in any danger, but it was impossible to convince her of that.

The gunfire was going to continue.  It was just people out target practicing.  They would very likely keep at it for hours.  If Lupe was ever going to get to Tomaha Point, she couldn’t wait for it to end.  SPHP encouraged her to just stay close and keep moving.  Lupe wasn’t buying it.  She kept getting in SPHP’s way, standing on her hind legs and leaning against SPHP looking for reassurance, begging SPHP to stop.

SPHP petted Lupe and encouraged her, but tried to keep going.  It was tough for both Lupe and SPHP.  Lupe persisted in getting right in the way.  SPHP persisted in trying to weave around her.  The game went on and on.  Every few minutes, so did the gunfire – sometimes just in single shots, other times in volleys.  Occasionally it was quiet for longer periods, 5 or 10 minutes, but each time it started up again.

The trail N was a pretty easy path.  Lupe and SPHP should have been making quick progress toward Tomaha Point, but the nervous Carolina Dog was slowing things down a lot.  While dodging dingoes, SPHP missed a turn and wound up taking Lupe down into a valley W of the most direct route to Victoria Creek, which had to be crossed along the way.

Fortunately, the western trail also turned N and would eventually reach Victoria Creek, too.  It went down into a little canyon, where there was still some melting ice on the trail.  There were some interesting twisted rock formations along the way.  At one point, a little spring bubbled above ground at the base of a twisted rock cliff.

Lupe stands near the spring at the base of the twisted rock cliff. There were more examples of similar twisted rock formations on the way through the canyon to Victoria Creek.

The melting ice was very slick.  Most places there wasn’t any, but in a few places there were big ice flows where the water from the spring had gone over the trail and frozen.  Lupe reached Victoria Creek at the end of the little canyon, about where SPHP expected to come out.  A towering rock formation was right at the end of the little canyon.

At the towering rock formation where the little canyon ended at Victoria Creek. Except for some ice, Victoria Creek was dry here.

Victoria Creek was dry, except for some ice.  Lupe followed a path near the creek continuing N until it reached a trail she had been on a week ago.  Lupe and SPHP turned W on it, crossed a road going through the canyon, and followed the trail NW up a long ridge.  At the far S end of a barren ridge SE of Commissary Point, Lupe left the trail and headed N.

Lupe had been along this route before, a week ago on her way to Commissary Point.  This time, instead of continuing on the barren ridge to the E end of Commissary Point, she soon left the ridge and headed NW down into a big valley.  All this time, well over an hour, Lupe had been hearing the relentless gunfire and begging SPHP to stop.  Now that Lupe was just S of Commissary Point, the gunfire was finally far enough away to be faint enough so the poor Carolina Dog could relax.

In the valley S of Commissary Point. Lupe was finally getting far enough away from the gunfire to begin to relax. Photo looks N at the S side of Commissary Point.

Lupe found USFS Road No. 163 and took it going around the SW side of Commissary Point.  The road turned N and headed down toward Dark Canyon.

SPHP knew from the topo map that Lupe was approaching a critical part of her journey to Tomaha Point.  By far the easiest path to Tomaha Point was to go 0.5 mile W up Dark Canyon, then turn SW to enter a side canyon.  She could follow the side canyon 0.25 mile to yet another side valley coming in from the NW. From the side valley she would have a pretty straight shot going NW up toward Tomaha Point.

It looked easy on the topo map, but there were two complications.  Rapid Creek, the largest stream in the Black Hills, flows through Dark Canyon.  A much smaller creek, Prairie Creek, flows out of the canyon to the SW down to its confluence with Rapid Creek in Dark Canyon.  Either stream might well block the way for Lupe to follow this route through the canyons.  In fact, it was rather likely.  There might be bridges across Rapid Creek, but there wouldn’t be any bridges over Prairie Creek.  Would Lupe find a way over or around the two streams?

She didn’t even get to find out.  Approaching Dark Canyon, there was a big round steel bar gate across USFS Road No. 163.  Signs said “Private Property” and “No Trespassing”.  That was going to make things tough.  Now Lupe couldn’t even try to find a way through Dark Canyon.

There was still one other possibility.  SPHP had seen it on the topo map.  USFS Road No. 163 was separated from the Prairie Creek canyon by a ridge almost 300 feet high, but there was one relatively low spot along the ridge.  SPHP had already dubbed it Prairie Creek Pass.  SPHP had been looking for it as Lupe came down USFS Road No. 163, but the ridge was so heavily forested, SPHP hadn’t seen the pass.

Instead of going back up No. 163 looking for a pass SPHP hadn’t been able to see before, Lupe and SPHP climbed directly up the ridge.  It was steep, but Lupe made it up onto the ridgeline.  Now Lupe could follow the ridgeline S looking for Prairie Creek Pass from above.  First, though, Lupe still had to climb higher as the ridgeline went SW.  In a few places, there were views of Commissary Point along the way.

Lupe reaches the ridgeline N of Prairie Creek Pass. Photo looks SE back at Commissary Point. Lupe had been up on those cliffs just 7 days ago on Expedition No. 156.

Even up on the ridgeline, it was a pretty steep climb as Lupe went SW up to the highest point N of Prairie Creek Pass.  Beyond the high point it got much easier continuing S toward the pass.

Beyond the highest point on the ridge, Lupe had this view to the ESE of Commissary Point. From here it wasn’t much farther to Prairie Creek Pass.
W face of Commissary Point.
W face of Commissary Point.

Surprisingly, Lupe arrived at the top of some small cliffs up above Prairie Creek Pass.  It wasn’t hard to find a way down to the pass, though.  Before heading W down into Prairie Creek canyon, Lupe and SPHP scouted the E side of the pass.  The forest was so dense, it really wasn’t possible to see much.  It did look like Lupe could get back down to the E from here, though, if she came back this way.

The topo map showed that the canyon wall above Prairie Creek was steep.  Cliffs were a definite possibility.  SPHP hoped there would be a safe way down.  If there wasn’t, Lupe would be stuck on the wrong side of Prairie Creek canyon. There was no other alternative route from here that would allow Lupe to reach Tomaha Point without searching for miles for another way through.

The topo map was right.  The canyon wall was steep all the way to the bottom, but Lupe and SPHP made it down slowly and safely.  There weren’t any cliffs.  Another possibility had been that Prairie Creek would be deep and flowing swiftly along the base of the canyon wall, preventing Lupe from getting across.  Fortunately, it appeared at first glance that the creek bed was totally dry.  It turned out there was some water in the creek, but not much.

Success!  Lupe had made it down to Prairie Creek from Prairie Creek Pass.  It had taken a long time to get here, but she had made it to this remote spot.  Apparently it wasn’t totally remote.  There was a big chunk of metal rusting in the stream bed right where Lupe had come down.  Why would anyone have brought it here?  And how?  It looked too heavy to pack out.

Lupe reaches Prairie Creek, which fortunately wasn’t much more than a trickle. The big piece of metal laying in the creek bed is seen just to the L of Lupe.

Lupe now needed to follow Prairie Creek 0.25 mile NW heading downstream.  There, Prairie Creek would turn NE on its way to Dark Canyon, but Lupe should be able to continue NW up a side valley.  With the creek so low, it seemed like it ought to be easy to reach the side valley.

It wasn’t.  Going through Prairie Creek canyon was hard.  A thick tangle of bushes, trees, deadfall timber, occasional boulders, and uneven ground made it very slow going for SPHP.  Lupe, however, was able to scamper around the veritable jungle pretty well.  The gunfire that had made her miserable earlier, was now forgotten.  Lupe was having a great time!

Lupe down in one of the easier parts of "the Tangle" along Prairie Creek.
Lupe down in one of the easier parts of “the Tangle” along Prairie Creek.

It took a long time for SPHP to force a way through “the Tangle” to reach the side valley coming in from the NW.  Worse yet, the tangle continued up the side valley, too.  No telling how far it went.  In semi-desperation, SPHP looked up.  It looked possible to climb up the NE side of the valley.  If Lupe could get up to the ridge line, it might be a lot faster.  A look at the topo map confirmed that this might work.

Lupe and SPHP made the steep climb.  Lupe reached the ridgeline.  It continued going up, steeply at first, but then more gradually as Lupe went NW along the ridge.  The steep climb had been worth it.  This was definitely better than fighting the endless tangle below!

Lupe is almost as happy as SPHP was to reach this ridgeline NE of the side valley. Photo looks NW.

When Lupe had reached the ridgeline, she was still nearly a mile SE of Tomaha Point, even though it seemed like hours and hours had gone by.  Starting with the gunfire, there had been one obstacle after another.  Now, though, Lupe was finally able to start making rapid progress.

Skirting to the S of a high point, Lupe came to a road!  It was an old road, but it was level and grassy.  There were a few little trees growing on it, but for SPHP it was the Autobahn compared to what Lupe had come through.  The old road soon led to a 3-way intersection.  Lupe took the branch that continued NW.  A marker showed that this was USFS Road No. 772.1I.  The road looked long abandoned, and eventually ended.

Lupe and SPHP left the end of the road climbing W up a forested hill.  It wasn’t too far to another higher ridge.  Pretty soon Lupe was up on that higher ridge and following it NW.  She came to a fairly level spot with lots of young trees around and some big ones, too.  There was a forested hill just beyond a saddle to the N.  It didn’t look all that high, but it was definitely higher than where Lupe was.  Off to the NE was a glimpse between the trees of Buzzard’s Roost (4,695 ft.).

Was the forested hill to the N Tomaha Point?  The setup looked right, but the truth was, SPHP didn’t know for sure what Tomaha Point looked like.  From Commissary Point a week ago, SPHP had tried to pick it out, but wasn’t certain which hill was it.  There was a hill that looked like a likely candidate, but from a distance there had been other hills that were still possibilities, too.

Lupe and SPHP were going to find out.  Lupe went down into the little saddle, crossed it, and started climbing.  Near the top of the forested hill, she found a seldom used trail.  It went around to the W side before turning up to the summit ridge.  A short walk S along the narrow rocky ridge led Lupe to a little cairn sitting atop a bigger rock.  From the views between the trees on the way up, SPHP was 100% convinced.  This was it.  Lupe had made it to the top of Tomaha Point!

Lupe on Tomaha Point. At last! The summit cairn is seen just above her head and slightly to the L.
Lupe on Tomaha Point. At last! The summit cairn is seen just above her head and slightly to the L.

Lupe on Tomaha Point, 2-18-16Tomaha Point was too heavily forested for there to be clear views.  Still, in some places there were little gaps between the trees.  The relative positions of Buzzard’s Roost and Thrall Mountain (5,091 ft.), plus the sheer height of the very steep drop-offs to the E and W confirmed this was indeed Tomaha Point.  From the top of the mountain, it was clear that there was nothing else around that could possibly be it.

The topo map shows that the Tomaha Point summit ridge runs N/S.  The true summit is toward the S end, which was where Lupe found it.  The N end of the ridge is lower.  Lupe started going over there, but it was very windy and the faint trail in that direction passed next to some pretty steep terrain.

SPHP caught a glimpse of a very steep rocky spine running down to the E from the N part of the mountain.  Yes, this was the same mountain SPHP had identified from Commissary Point.  No need to go over to the N end.  It looked a bit too treacherous.  Lupe already had her Tomaha Point peakbagging success.

Buzzard's Roost is the high point on the L. Looking NE from Tomaha Point.
Buzzard’s Roost is the high point on the L. Looking NE from Tomaha Point.
Thrall Mountain is the high point at center. Looking NW from Tomaha Point.
Thrall Mountain is the high point at center. Looking NW from Tomaha Point.
Commissary Point is on the L. Looking SE from Tomaha Point.
Commissary Point is on the L. Looking SE from Tomaha Point.

Although it had been breezy up on other ridges, the SW wind was gusting up on Tomaha Point.  Lupe’s trip here had been somewhat of an ordeal, but she had made it.  A lot of time had been spent getting here, though.  It would likely be dark before Lupe could get back to the G6.  Lupe and SPHP left Tomaha Point and returned to the somewhat lower ridge across the saddle to the S.

SPHP stopped to look at the topo map and ponder which way Lupe should go back.  There were two choices, back through the tangle and over Prairie Creek Pass, or explore to the S.  If Lupe went S, she would have to find another way across a different part of Prairie Creek canyon, but then it would be a mile or less before she would reach a good road or trail.

Exploring S seemed like fun, but iffy.  It would probably be OK, but what if it wasn’t?  Wandering around lost in the dark would not be much fun.  Better to just go back the same way, despite all the steep ridges, passes and tangles.  At least the route was known.  Lupe and SPHP headed back to the SE along the ridge.

Along the way, SPHP came up with a brainstorm.  Instead of going back the exact same way, why not try another ridge leading down to Prairie Creek closer to Prairie Creek Pass?  That way Lupe could avoid most of the tangle.  It was brilliant!

Instead of going back to the Autobahn, Lupe and SPHP continued SE on another ridge farther S, losing elevation steadily along the way.  After a little bit, a big rock outcropping loomed ahead, blocking the ridgeline.  Lupe wasn’t going to be able to stay up on the ridge.

Time to make a choice about which valley to follow, the one to the SW or to the NE?  Both valleys continued down to the SE.  SPHP chose the SW one, since the valley farthest S should be Prairie Creek canyon.

Lupe about to reach the rock formation that forced her off the ridge. She went down to the right of it.

Lupe reached the bottom of the valley to the SW without losing much more elevation at all.  Right away she was back in the tangle again.  At least the creek was underground here.  Hopefully Lupe wouldn’t have to go too far to get to the base of Prairie Creek Pass.

Lupe back down in "the Tangle" again searching for Prairie Creek Pass.
Lupe back down in “the Tangle” again searching for Prairie Creek Pass.

Prairie Creek canyon was a much narrower “V-shaped” valley here than farther down where the stream was above ground.  The bottom of the valley was full of boulders of various sizes in the dry creek bed.  As Lupe went around the big rock formation, the creek bed lost elevation rapidly.  It continued to do so as Lupe and SPHP pushed on down the valley.  During a big rain, the water gushing down this steep valley must become an absolute torrent full of waterfalls.

SPHP was hoping and expecting that Lupe would reach the base of Prairie Creek Pass soon.  This time she should be approaching from the upstream direction.  The tangle went on and on.  Sometimes there were places where the NE side of the valley wasn’t as steep.  Lupe and SPHP could gain a little elevation and temporarily escape the tangle.  Each time, though, the terrain soon forced Lupe back down all the way to the creek bed again.

There hadn’t been any water at all in this steep valley at first, but after Lupe had lost quite a bit of elevation, there started to be signs she might soon reach water.  She came to a big mossy rock that was dripping a little bit.

At the mossy rock. It was dripping a little water.

Near the mossy rock, Lupe found a few puddles where she could get a drink.  Any time now, Lupe would reach a place where Prairie Creek would be above ground.  Well, not really.  Lupe and SPHP still had to push on farther through the tangle than SPHP expected before Lupe heard the sound of running water ahead.

Oh no!  Could it be?  It was.  Lupe still wasn’t at the base of Prairie Creek Pass.  SPHP was now certain where she was.  SPHP recognized the big rock wall on the left.  Near here, Lupe had climbed out of the start of the side valley on her way to Tomaha Point.  She was back where the side valley met Prairie Creek Canyon.  She hadn’t been coming down Prairie Creek Canyon at all!

That meant all the struggle Lupe had just been through to avoid the tangle had just been additional tangle.  She now had to work her way upstream through the entire length of the same tangle she passed through going to Tomaha Point.  The brilliant plan to avoid it, had failed.  DOH!

No choice, but to press on through it.  Lupe and SPHP set off going up Prairie Creek.  When SPHP saw that Lupe was finally getting close to Prairie Creek Pass, SPHP tried another maneuver.  The E canyon wall looked like it might be possible to start up here and angle up toward Prairie Creek Pass, getting Lupe out of the tangle a bit sooner than she otherwise would.

Lupe and SPHP started climbing.  Within 30 seconds of starting to angle toward Prairie Creek Pass, the proposed route was blocked by a deep ravine going straight down.  Lupe couldn’t go forward.  Up or back down?  Those were the only two choices.  SPHP hated to lose the elevation again.  It looked possible to go up.  High above was some kind of a ridge where it looked like there might be some level ground.

Of course, it was steep.  Why shouldn’t it be?  Everything else was today.  Lupe and SPHP started climbing.  Lupe reached the top of the ridge.  SPHP followed her up.  SPHP was sweating.  It sure was warm out for February!  The top of the ridge was broad, flat and thickly forested.  Sunlight filtered between the trees.  It was nice here, so incredibly private.

SPHP found a log and sat down.  Time for a break!  Lupe agreed.  Taste of the Wild, an apple, a chocolate and coconut granola bar, and lots of water all got consumed.  At least the backpack was lighter now.  For a little while, Lupe and SPHP just rested.  It felt good.

Lupe seems happy to take a little break.
Lupe seems happy to take a little break.

Lupe must nearly be as high as Prairie Creek Pass by now.  Maybe there was a reasonably level route over to it?

No, of course not.  Lupe made it most of the way to Prairie Creek Pass, but the canyon wall got too steep to be worth trying to go that way.  Lupe had to climb clear up to the top of the higher part of the ridge.  Fortunately, it wasn’t all that much higher.  Lupe made a discovery along the way!  She found a great Dingo den under an overhanging rock formation.

Lupe reaches her newly discovered secret Dingo den near Prairie Creek Pass. To her left, there was a little bit of a cave. It only went in a few feet farther, but would provide great protection in a storm.
Lupe reaches her newly discovered secret Dingo den near Prairie Creek Pass. To her left, there was a little bit of a cave. It only went in a few feet farther, but would provide great protection in a storm.

It was still a little bit of a climb from Lupe’s secret Dingo den up to the top of the ridge.  Lupe and SPHP had been up here earlier in the day.  The rest of the way back to the G6 would be pretty easy.  Lupe and SPHP went down into Prairie Creek Pass, and crossed it heading SE trying not to lose too much elevation.

A ravine eventually forced Lupe to go down to USFS Road No. 163 again.  Along the way, Lupe found the bleached bones of a deer that met its end here.  The deer had met its tragic fate some time ago.  There was nothing left of it except the bones.

The deer bones as Lupe found them.
The deer bones as Lupe found them.

USFS Road No. 163 had been rather soft and mucky early in the day.  The warm breeze had dried it out considerably by the time Lupe and SPHP reached it again.  After all the obstacles Lupe had encountered, trudging up the road seemed extraordinarily easy.

Nearing USFS Road No. 163 again, Lupe saw the moon above Commissary Point.
Nearing USFS Road No. 163 again, Lupe saw the moon above Commissary Point.

Clouds started moving in from the SW, and the sunlight disappeared.  The cool wind was blowing harder as Lupe regained elevation again.  It felt good.  SPHP began to get ideas.  Lupe was just S of Commissary Point.  SPHP could see a break in the cliff wall near the top toward the SE end of the mountain.  Why not climb Commissary Point again?

Another steep climb.  Lupe and SPHP emerged above the cliff wall near the S viewpoint that Lupe had been at on Expedition No. 156.  The SW wind was really blowing up here!  It started to sprinkle.  Thunder!  Really?  A thunderstorm in the middle of February?  What next?

Lupe and SPHP emerged up above the cliff wall toward the E end of Commissary Point near this S viewpoint. Lupe had been here on Expedition No. 156, too. This time there was a strong wind out of the SW, the clouds were spitting a little rain, and Lupe even heard thunder once! Photo looks S.
Lupe and SPHP emerged up above the cliff wall toward the E end of Commissary Point near this S viewpoint. Lupe had been here on Expedition No. 156, too. This time there was a strong wind out of the SW, the clouds were spitting a little rain, and Lupe even heard thunder once! Photo looks S.

The wind blew hard.  The clouds continued to spit a little rain, but there was no more thunder as Lupe and SPHP headed for the summit.  Lupe liked it up here and raced around across the open ground and through the forest.  Nearing the summit from the E, suddenly SPHP realized Lupe wasn’t there.  Where had she gone?  She had been here just a couple of minutes ago.

SPHP shouted for Lupe a couple of times.  No Lupe.  SPHP ran over to the N for a look at the terrain over there.  She might have gone that way.  Were there cliffs?  No cliffs.  That was good.  SPHP shouted Lupe’s name over and over.  More than a dozen times.

She always came, she always stayed near.  Maybe Lupe had heard something, and had chased so far away after it she couldn’t hear SPHP in the wind?  By now the sun had to be almost down.  It would be getting dark soon.  SPHP kept yelling for Lupe.

Suddenly, there she was!  Racing as fast as she could up through the forest from the NE, here came Lupe!  She was panting really hard.  She must have come a long way.  Maybe she had gotten turned around.  Lupe had a huge drink of water, as SPHP welcomed the American Dingo back.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the summit of Commissary Point for the second time in a week.  Nothing to see here in the forest.  A quick, fuzzy photo and onward.  Lupe and SPHP headed to the big viewpoint to the W.  Just like a week ago, it was an absolute gale there.  This time the wind was out of the SW instead of the NW.  A few raindrops took aim at Lupe and SPHP just for fun.

Lupe returns briefly to the summit of Commissary Point! Photo looks W.
Lupe returns briefly to the summit of Commissary Point! Photo looks W.

SPHP had hoped there would be a nice sunset, but there were too many clouds.  The sun was hidden behind them.  Or, maybe the sun wasn’t even up any more?  The light was fading fast.  It was still more than two miles back to the G6.  Best to be moving on.  Lupe and SPHP left the viewpoint heading E through the forest.

Lupe back at the W end of Commissary Point. Thrall Mountain is near the R side of this photo. Tomaha Point is closer and seen a bit to the left of Thrall Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe back at the W end of Commissary Point. Thrall Mountain is near the R side of this photo. Tomaha Point is closer and seen a bit to the left of Thrall Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
Tomaha Point is the ridge L of Center. Thrall Mountain is the highest point on the R. Photo looks NW from Commissary Point. Taken with the telephoto lens.
Tomaha Point is the ridge L of Center. Thrall Mountain is the highest point on the R. Photo looks NW from Commissary Point. Taken with the telephoto lens.
Lupe in the wind and light rain at the W end of Commissary Point.
Lupe in the wind and light rain at the W end of Commissary Point.

When Lupe got back to the S viewpoint, SPHP was surprised to see there was a pink glow in the sky back to the SW.  There was a bit of a sunset after all!  Lupe posed in the gale for a shot with the sunset, but the camera wouldn’t pick up both.  The sunset only appeared when using the telephoto lens.  Sorry, Lupe!  This is a sunset shot!

Sunset from the S viewpoint on Commissary Point. Photo looks, uh, well you know where the sun sets!
Sunset from the S viewpoint on Commissary Point. Photo looks, uh, well you know where the sun sets!

Lupe and SPHP left Commissary Point heading SE, and then S along the barren ridge where the helicopter had flown over exciting Lupe a week ago.  It was almost dark out.  Off to the ENE, Lupe could see the lights of Rapid City.

The way back to the G6 from the barren ridge was now familiar.  Lupe still had one more little adventure when SPHP lost the faint trail once in the dark forest, but Lupe found it again before too long.  At 6:58 PM (56°F), Lupe was back at the G6.  Expedition No. 157 had lasted more than 10 hours.  Despite the scary gunfire at the start, Lupe must have had a good time.  She didn’t want to get in the G6 to go home yet.

So SPHP stretched out on the ground.  Lupe laid down next to SPHP.  She held her keen ears high.  Her head darted back and forth, as she listened intently to noises in the forest.  The sky was gray, not black, even though the sun was long gone.  Once in a while, the moon shimmered briefly through thin clouds.  Overhead, the pitch black outlines of the pines swayed in the still gusty SW wind.

Lights of Rapid City on the way back from Commissary Point, 2-18-16

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 156 – Commissary Point & Buzzard’s Roost (2-11-16)

February 11, 2016 was Lupe and SPHP’s 5th anniversary!  Lupe first arrived to live with SPHP the evening of February 11, 2011 as a tiny almost 2 month old puppy.  She made friends with SPHP that very first night, and a life of fun and adventures together began.  When SPHP suggested a Black Hills Expedition to celebrate this 5th anniversary, Lupe was totally in favor.  In fact, she was in a big rush to get going!

SPHP parked the G6 (8:27 AM, 48°F) at a little pullout along Victoria Lake Road not far from where it left Sheridan Lake Road.  Lupe and SPHP started out following an abandoned road heading NW.  Before too long, the road divided.  Lupe turned NE going up a rather rocky route.  The road was a little steep at first, but started leveling out.  Lupe and SPHP left the road, and climbed N up to a high point.

Lupe had a couple of peakbagging goals for the day.  The first one was Commissary Point (4,598 ft.), a little over 2 miles NNW of where the G6 was parked.  SPHP hoped to get a glimpse of Commissary Point from this high point (High Point 4516 on the Peakbagger.com topo map), but no such luck.  High Point 4516 was all forested.  There weren’t views in any direction.

Lupe and SPHP continued N from High Point 4516, gradually losing elevation.  SPHP hadn’t brought along any topo map of the area SE of Commissary Point where Lupe was, so it wasn’t real clear which way to go.  As Lupe headed N, she began to get glimpses of another high hill up ahead.  Lupe went toward it, but SPHP soon realized Lupe was rapidly approaching a deep intervening ravine.

It looked like maybe it was possible to get over to the high hill without losing elevation by circling around to the E of the ravine, and then turning NW.  SPHP was doubtful.  Lupe was in an area where the watersheds typically drain to the E.  If the deep ravine ahead drained E, it would cut off any approach to the high hill from that direction.  Better to try going W, even though that meant losing elevation.

Lupe lost elevation.  Lots of it, as in hundreds of feet.  There was an old barbed wire fence in the forest that was falling over, which presented a danger to Lupe.  SPHP tried to keep her well away from it, but the fence went W, too.  SPHP lifted Lupe over the vicious low-hanging barbed wire strands, to get her N of the fence.  Lupe finally reached the bottom of a side ravine coming down from the S.  SPHP was surprised to find a good single track trail there.  A short trek to the N on it led Lupe and SPHP to another trail that went E/W.

SPHP had guessed wrong.  The trail going E was going UP the big ravine that had been blocking Lupe’s way to the N.  The ravine drained to the W.  There had been no need for Lupe to lose all this elevation.  Oh, well.  Nothing to do, but regain it.  Lupe and SPHP took the trail going E.

The single track trail was a surprisingly good one.  It headed up the ravine gaining elevation at a moderate pace.  There were some big rock walls along the N side of the ravine.  It was pretty scenic down here.  The only problem with the trail was that it was quite icy for long stretches.  The trail showed signs of recent use.  There were footprints in the snow and ice.  Maybe this was the way to Commissary Point?

Lupe on the trail down in the ravine.

As the “Ice Trail” started nearing a saddle, SPHP noticed another trail branching off to the N.  Since Commissary Point had to be N, and not any farther E, Lupe and SPHP took the branch trail.  SPHP quickly became convinced this was the trail to Commissary Point.  It remained a very good single track trail, and was going roughly in the right direction.  The branch trail went N up a big side gully.  After gaining a fair amount of elevation, it then switchbacked up the W side of the gully to arrive up on a relatively level bench area.

The bench area was mostly meadow, but forested around the edges.  To the N, there was higher ground.  SPHP expected the trail would continue N on up the slope, but instead it wound around to the S going back toward the N edge of the ravine where the Ice Trail had been.  When the trail turned E and started losing elevation, SPHP concluded maybe it was just going to make a loop back down into the ravine somehow.

Lupe didn’t need to go back down to the ravine.  She needed to go N!  SPHP had seen some cairns along the trail shortly after it reached the bench.  Maybe SPHP had missed another branch of the trail going N on to Commissary Point?  Lupe and SPHP returned to where the cairns were, and even went back beyond them, but there didn’t seem to be any other branch of the trail.  Odd.

Well, Lupe was going to go N on up the hill, trail or no trail.  She went 100 feet N, gaining about 30 feet of elevation on the way, and suddenly found the trail again!  Surprising, but very handy.  Lupe and SPHP continued N on the trail.  It was clear that Lupe was getting close to the top of Commissary Point.  The trail angled over toward the W side of the hill.  There it continued N above some big cliffs just to the W.  Some places there were big views between the trees to the W or N.

Miss Tasty Nose at a viewpoint along the trail. Lupe and SPHP ultimately wound up over on top of the cliffs seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks N.
Miss Tasty Nose at a viewpoint along the trail. Lupe and SPHP ultimately wound up over on top of the cliffs seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks N.
These small cliffs were just E of the trail. The top of the hill was just a little way above them. Photo looks N.
These small cliffs were just E of the trail. The top of the hill was just a little way above them. Photo looks N.

Shortly after passing by some small cliffs on the E side of the trail, Lupe and SPHP left the trail to climb up to the top of the hill.  The top wasn’t very far up above the small cliffs.  The summit was fairly level, open and grassy.  SPHP wasn’t surprised to see there was a dirt road up here.  There were great views in most directions.  Lupe claimed her first peakbagging success of the day.  She had made it to the top of Commissary Point!

Looking SSW from the summit toward Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.) (L) and Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) (R).
Looking SSW from the summit toward Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.) (L) and Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) (C).

SPHP started looking around to the W and N to get oriented for Lupe’s next peakbagging goal, Tomaha Point.  Funny, nothing that looked like it might be Tomaha Point was anywhere close.  Buzzard’s Roost (4,695 ft.) should have been rather prominent 1.5 miles to the NNW, but it didn’t seem to be there, either.  Thrall Mountain (5,091 ft.) was in sight, but looked pretty far away.

SPHP glanced off to the NE.  There was some forested land over there, part of this same hill, that looked like it might be a little higher than where Lupe was.  Something was wrong.  Maybe Lupe wasn’t at the summit of Commissary Peak yet?  Another problem – back to the S, High Point 4516 looked noticeably higher than where Lupe was.  Something was definitely wrong.

Looking back to the NW, suddenly SPHP knew exactly what was wrong.  That big forested hill over there, beyond a huge canyon and a barren ridge, was Commissary Point – the real Commissary Point.  SPHP had led Lupe up the wrong mountain!  This wasn’t Commissary Point at all!

Scratch one peakbagging success.  Lupe still had a long way to go to get to Commissary Point.  Well, Lupe could still get there, but the chances of getting as far as Tomaha Point today, another 2 miles NW of Commissary Point through rugged terrain, had just gone down the tubes.

"Ha, ha, ha! Oh, for Poodle's sake, SPHP! You mean to tell me that big hill way beyond the barren ridge is the REAL Commissary Point?" Photo looks NW.
“Ha, ha, ha! Oh, for Poodle’s sake, SPHP! You mean to tell me that big hill way beyond the barren ridge is the REAL Commissary Point?” Photo looks NW.
Commissary Point is the forested hill at the center of this photo connected to the barren ridge on the L. Buzzard's Roost is the high ridge on the R. Photo looks NW.
Commissary Point is the forested hill at the center of this photo connected to the barren ridge on the L. Buzzard’s Roost is the high ridge on the R. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the trail.  To get to Commissary Point, Lupe would have to go all the way back the way she had come clear down to where she first got on the Ice Trail.  Before doing all that, though, since she was already way up here, SPHP thought Lupe may as well explore this mountain.  It wasn’t too much farther N to a big viewpoint jutting out to the W.

The trail took Lupe almost all the way to the viewpoint.  It went N to a road that Lupe and SPHP followed the rest of the way out to the W end of the prominence.  The viewpoint was level and tens of feet wide, but surrounded on 3 sides by big cliffs.

It had been breezy all day long, except down in the ravines.  Up here on this prominence totally exposed to the NW wind, it was nothing short of a roaring gale.  Trees swayed wildly with each gust.  The strong unpredictable wind was a bit unnerving, even though Lupe and SPHP stayed far from the cliff edges.

There certainly was a tremendous view, though.  Lupe and SPHP remained out on the viewpoint for several minutes trying to enjoy the impressive scene.  Unfortunately, the wind was being just too much to contend with.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP could really relax and appreciate the panorama.

Lupe on her way back down to the trail from the top of the "fake Commissary Point".
Lupe on her way back down to the trail from the top of the “fake Commissary Point”.
Looking NNE from the very windy viewpoint.
Looking NNE from the very windy viewpoint.
Commissary Point (L), Thrall Mountain (more distant and slightly L of Center) and Buzzard's Roost (R) from the windy viewpoint. Photo looks NW.
Commissary Point (L), Thrall Mountain (more distant and slightly L of Center) and Buzzard’s Roost (R) from the windy viewpoint. Photo looks NW.

Completely, 110% satisfied, with the amount of fresh air being shipped in from Canada, Lupe and SPHP retreated, leaving the hurricane viewpoint behind.  Lupe followed the road back to the trail, and turned S.  She followed the trail all the way back down to where she had first gotten on the Ice Trail.

There was only one important variation along her route back.  Instead of just taking the shortcut back down the bank N of the bench to reach the trail below, Lupe and SPHP stayed on the upper trail.  SPHP wanted to see just where the two trails connected.  The upper trail took off to the W, and then started winding around so crazily, SPHP began to wonder if the trails really did connect.

In the end, the upper trail turned out to be the same trail as the lower one.  However, it wound all around the perimeter of the whole bench area near the edges of the cliffs.  It took 0.5 mile to do what could have been accomplished in 100 feet.  Clearly, this trail was built to take advantage of the views, every last one of them!

Lupe sniffing around again on the Ice Trail back down in the ravine.

When Lupe reached her original starting point on the Ice Trail, she continued on heading W.  She soon came to Victoria Creek, or at least its creek bed.  The creek was dry, except for puddles in some places.  Just beyond the creek, Lupe reached a road.  The road was icy, but Lupe and SPHP followed it NW.  It soon led to a fence on the border of private property.

Lupe and SPHP turned away from the fence and climbed a ridge to the SW.  Once up on the ridge, Lupe found the trail again.  SPHP remembered being here before, on another expedition with Lupe a long time ago.  This was part of the Pink & Black Checkered trail, wasn’t it?  Maybe not, SPHP looked, but didn’t see any of the pink and black checkered markers along the way.

The trail gained elevation as it headed generally W.  Lupe and SPHP followed it only until it was at the S end of the barren ridge leading to Commissary Point.  There Lupe and SPHP turned N, and started following the barren ridge.

Lupe on the barren ridge SE of Commissary Point, seen beyond her.
Lupe on the barren ridge SE of Commissary Point, seen beyond her.
Lupe and SPHP had been up on the highest part of the hill pictured here. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe and SPHP had been up on the highest part of the hill pictured here. Photo looks ESE.
The biggest rock prominence just R of center is the very windy viewpoint on the hill that is NOT Commissary Point. Photo looks ESE from the barren ridge.
The biggest rock prominence just R of center is the very windy viewpoint on the hill that is NOT Commissary Point. Photo looks ESE from the barren ridge.

Up on the barren ridge, Lupe and SPHP were following an old dirt road that showed little sign of use.  However, as Lupe started getting close to the forest at the NW end of the barren ridge, she found a freshly graded road.  Much of the E end of Commissary Point has been logged recently.  The ground is all chewed up, and Lupe saw big stacks of dead pine trees.  It was kind of a mess.

Once Lupe had a good start going NW up Commissary Point, she went to the S rim of the mountain, reaching it at a place where there was a view toward Boulder Hill and Storm Hill.  Beyond this point, the forest had not been logged near the rim.  It was thick, overcrowded and dark.  Lupe passed through the dense forest staying on the S shoulder of the mountain, before turning N for the final climb up to the summit.

Near the S rim of Commissary Point. Of the 3 high points in the distance in the center of the photo, Storm Hill is on the L. Boulder Hill is the knob on the R. Photo looks S.

The final climb was short and easy.  Lupe reached the summit to claim her real, genuine Commissary Point peakbagging success!  Nothing could be seen from the summit except the surrounding dense forest, although it was pretty clear there was some very steep ground close by to the N.  Lupe and SPHP stopped for a break.  Lupe had Taste of the Wild, water, and was most eager to help SPHP with a couple of chocolate-covered granola bars.  SPHP had water and an apple, too.

This is it! The real deal! Lupe is on the summit of Commissary Point. Photo looks W.
This is it! The real deal! Lupe is on the summit of Commissary Point. Photo looks W.
Loopster on Commissary Point, 5 years to the day after she came to live with SPHP.
Loopster on Commissary Point, 5 years to the day after she came to live with SPHP.
Lupe on Commissary Point. This photo looks E. Note the huge difference in the view from the photo looking W.
Lupe on Commissary Point. This photo looks E. Note the huge difference in the view from the photo looking W.

Although the summit of Commissary Point offered no distant views, the topo map showed that there ought to be some from cliffs at the slightly lower W end of the mountain.  Lupe and SPHP left the summit heading W through the forest.  It was a pleasant stroll, and Lupe had fun running around exploring.  It only took 5 or 10 minutes to reach the W end of the mountain.

A nearly level limestone platform was at the edge of high cliffs.  There were only a few trees close to the edge, providing a little strip of open ground where there were big 180° views from the S around to the W and N.  This exposed ground felt the full force of the NW wind, which was still very strong.  Lupe didn’t like the wind, but she did like peering over the edge from a safe distance.

Buzzard's Roost is the high ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks NNW from the W end of Commissary Point.
Buzzard’s Roost is the high ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks NNW from the W end of Commissary Point.
Strong gusts of the NW wind ruffled Lupe’s fur out on the exposed viewpoint. The wind was coming from behind her in this photo. Photo looks NNW.
Rapid Creek is seen below down in Dark Canyon. Buzzard’s Roost is way up above, just R of Center.
Looking W.
Looking W.
Thrall Mountain near Johnson Siding is the highest distant point at Center. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP stayed for a little while at the W end of Commissary Point.  The Carolina Dog would have stayed longer, if there hadn’t been such a roaring gale out of the NW.  Lupe at least saw Tomaha Point, still 2 miles off the to NW, but there was no way Lupe and SPHP were going to make it clear over there today.  There were big canyons between here and there.  It was time to start heading back to the G6.

Both Lupe and SPHP were rather glad to go back into the dense forest, where they were protected from the wind.  Instead of returning to the summit of Commissary Point, Lupe explored the forest near the cliffs along the S rim of the mountain.  There were several places where the forest gave way to open spots with views to the S along the way.

Looking SSE from near the S rim of Commissary Point. The closest big patch of open ground in the distance is part of the barren ridge Lupe would go back over on her way to the G6. The G6 is parked near the more distant patch of open ground well beyond the ridge.
Looking SSE from near the S rim of Commissary Point. The closest big patch of open ground in the distance is part of the barren ridge Lupe would go back over on her way to the G6. The G6 is parked near the more distant patch of open ground well beyond the ridge.

Lupe went back along the barren ridge SE of Commissary Point again.  She was pretty excited when she heard a helicopter approaching from the S.  It flew by a bit to the S of Lupe.  She barked and leaped like a nut case, but it worked – the terrified helicopter flew away to the NNE.

The tiny black spec in the sky just L of Center is not dust on your screen. It is the helicopter that got Lupe so stirred up. Photo looks SE from the barren ridge.
The tiny black spec in the sky just L of Center is not dust on your screen. It is the helicopter that got Lupe so stirred up. Photo looks SE from the barren ridge.
Lupe on the barren ridge on her way back to the G6. Photo looks ESE toward the hill she had climbed earlier in the day – the one that turned out NOT to be Commissary Point!

Lupe returned to the single track trail at the S end of the barren ridge.  She turned E, and followed the trail all the way down to where it crossed the road down in the canyon, and then Victoria Creek.  Now Lupe was back on the Ice Trail.  When she reached the branch of the trail that went S up the side ravine, she took it.

The branch trail climbed for a little while, and then went up and down over a series of little hills and gullies.  Lupe and SPHP arrived back at the G6 at 3:20 PM (50°F).  Lupe had succeeded in climbing Commissary Point, but had lost so much time doing it along SPHP’s very circuitous route, she didn’t get to climb Tomaha Point.

No Tomaha Point to finish the day?  No problem.  SPHP hatched another plan.  There was still more than enough time left for Lupe and SPHP to drive over to the Buzzard’s Roost trailhead along Hwy 44W (Rimrock Hwy).  The trail to the top of Buzzard’s Roost wasn’t very long, maybe around 0.75 mile.  Lupe could see the sunset from Buzzard’s Roost!  She would also get a look back at Commissary Point from there.

Lupe and SPHP spent 30 minutes in Rapid City, and then drove on out Hwy 44W to arrive at the Buzzard’s Roost trailhead on the S side of the Hwy at 4:29 PM (50°F).  Lupe took the Sundown Trail up to the short Buzzard’s Roost trail that went to the high point at the end of the ridge.

(Signs said the Sundown Trail was extremely difficult.  The difficulty was way overstated.  The Sundown Trail was just a normal hiking trail, a bit rocky in places, that gained elevation gradually as it followed along the base of low cliffs.  Easy to moderate the whole way by Lupe standards.)

The sun was already very low on the horizon when Lupe reached the summit of Buzzard’s Roost, right at the very end of the ridge. Big cliffs were close at paw on 3 sides.  Lupe and SPHP were both very glad that the fierce NW wind had by now almost completely subsided.  Lupe and SPHP sat together on the white limestone surveying the views, while waiting the last few minutes for sunset.  Off to the SE, Lupe and SPHP saw Commissary Point and much of the territory Lupe had spent the day exploring.

Lupe reaches the summit of Buzzard's Roost shortly before sundown. She had been to Buzzard's Roost once before, over 3.5 years ago. Kathy and Lanis had been with Lupe then.
Lupe reaches the summit of Buzzard’s Roost shortly before sundown. She had been to Buzzard’s Roost once before, over 3.5 years ago. Kathy and Lanis had been with Lupe & SPHP then.
Looking SSE toward Commissary Point, the forested hill just L of Center near the top of the photo.
Looking SSE toward Commissary Point, the forested hill just L of Center near the top of the photo.
The last rays of the sun illuminate the cliffs on the L, where Lupe had been early in the day. Commissary Point is on the R.
The last rays of the sun illuminate the cliffs on the L, where Lupe had been early in the day. Commissary Point is on the R.
From Buzzard's Roost, Lupe could see the W side of Rapid City, SD (just in front of and below the most distant forested ridge). Photo looks E.
From Buzzard’s Roost, Lupe could see the W side of Rapid City, SD (just in front of and below the most distant forested ridge). Photo looks E.

As Lupe and SPHP sat there, SPHP noticed that Lupe was staring intently at the edge of the cliff just a few feet away.  SPHP asked Lupe what she saw.  Lupe growled, and looked ready to spring over there.  No way!  Don’t!  SPHP hung on to Lupe, and talked to her.  She kept staring, but calmed down.  She must have heard something.  SPHP detected nothing unusual.

Sunset arrived.  The colors weren’t super spectacular, but they were pretty good – certainly worth seeing.

Sunset on Buzzard's Roost.
Sunset on Buzzard’s Roost.
5 years spent with Lupe fade into history.

On the way back to the G6, Lupe took the Buzzard’s Roost/Jack’s trails.  Jack’s trail should have been even easier than the Sundown Trail, but it was icy, and wet, and a sea of mud.  Lupe and SPHP tried to stay on the grass near the edge of the trail whenever possible.

Lupe reached the G6 at 5:59 PM (46°F).  It was almost dark out.  Another long February night was here.  This one would soon start like the first one SPHP spent with tiny puppy Lupe 5 years ago, snuggled together to get some sleep.  Except, maybe this time Lupe would be tired enough to actually sleep.  No more 10,000 licks from a lonely, scared little Carolina Dog excited to just to have a new friend, any friend, after being torn away from her mother and siblings a few hours earlier.

It was going to be a good night, but really, that one 5 years ago was better.Sunset at Buzzard's Roost, 2-11-16Links:

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