Day 19 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!
8:54 AM, 64ºF, Columbia River Gorge, Multnomah Falls –
My, how times have changed, Looper! Just act natural, and keep going.
The guy insisting that reservations are required to see Multnomah Falls looked right at SPHP as Lupe sauntered on by, but said nothing. So far, so good. The Carolina Dog trotted through the underpass and emerged a short distance from the Multnomah Falls Lodge restaurant.
Sure enough, a lady at a booth out front was checking reservations. None needed to visit the restaurant or gift shop, but definitely required to see the falls. Only $1.00, and reservations can be made online.
We’re not from around here, and my American Dingo has come a long way to see Multnomah Falls. Didn’t know reservations were required, and I don’t have a smart phone. What can we do?
The lady was cool. No problem! Lupe could go right on ahead. This whole reservation deal is a pilot program new this year to help reduce crowding at the falls. Reservation requirements won’t be made official until 2022, after this year’s results have been taken into consideration.
She didn’t even ask for the $1.00.
Luck of the Dingo, we’re in! Good job, Looper!
Never realized before what a smooth talker you are, SPHP!
Mark it on your calendar, Loop. A historical first.
The big daily rush was just beginning. People were arriving in droves.
C’mon, Loopster! Let’s have a look at Multnomah Falls before the crowd gets totally insane.
Spectacular, double-decker Multnomah Falls was only a short walk from the restaurant. SPHP had a quick look at a display, then Lupe went to see the second highest year-round waterfall in the United States.
Oh, we’ve been here before, SPHP! With Lanis in 2012!
That’s right, Loop! Worth another look, don’t you think?
Certainly is! Multnomah Falls is awesome! Didn’t we go up above the falls, though, with Lanis?
Sure did! We will again as soon as we’re done admiring the falls from down here. We’ll be going a lot farther this time, too. All the way to both Devils Rest (2,400 ft.) and Angels Rest (1,600 ft.).
A short paved trail led up to a bridge over the lower falls that was closer to the more spectacular upper falls. Before heading up there, Lupe had a good look at the 69 foot tall lower falls.
The lower falls alone were impressive, but at 543 feet tall, the upper falls were nearly an incredible 8 times as high! Lupe started up the trail.
The bridge was already so busy, that it was hard to get a turn on it. Lupe waited and waited, but it was soon evident that a chance to linger on the bridge just wasn’t going to happen. When an opportunity came to dash across, Loop went for it. SPHP paused only for a couple of quick photos.
Once across the bridge, the trail wasn’t quite so busy. After a good look at the stupendous upper falls from near the bridge, the American Dingo was eager to continue. The paved trail made 11 long switchbacks on the way up a steep forested slope. However, this wasn’t difficult, since the trail itself wasn’t all that steep.
Every now and then, there were fabulous views of the Columbia River. At one point Loopster could see both Hamilton Mountain (2,438 ft.) and Beacon Rock (840 ft.) on the Washington side of the river.
After gaining nearly 750 feet of elevation, the trail went over a small ridge and started down. Almost immediately, Lupe came to a junction where there was a posted map. The Multnomah Falls overlook was at the end of a short spur trail to the R. On the way to it, Looper helped herself to a drink from Multnomah Creek.
Returning to the spur trail, a set of stone stairs brought Lupe down to a round platform virtually on the brink of the upper falls. This platform also provided another great view of the Columbia River.
The viewing platform was small, room for only a couple of people at a time at the best spot. With lots of people coming and going, Lupe and SPHP were just in the way after taking a turn. Better move on. Leaving the overlook, Lupe returned to the main trail.
Which way now, SPHP? Up the Multnomah Creek canyon, or back down the switchbacks?
Up the canyon, Loop!
Taking Larch Mountain Trail No. 441 upstream, Lupe soon came to a stone bridge over Multnomah Creek. No longer paved, the trail then wound up the beautiful canyon passing a series of waterfalls. At one point, it went under a massive, but odd, solid rock ledge. Very scenic!
Trail No. 441 wasn’t crowded, but a surprising number of people were on it. Justifiably so, too! The canyon was full of lovely spots.
The last waterfall Lupe came to was the most impressive. Definitely worth a closer look! The Carolina Dog left the trail to check it out.
Scrambling over some big driftwood, the Carolina Dog got right down next to the pool immediately below the falls. Amazing! Couldn’t have done that at Multnomah Falls! This was a much more private spot, too.
Too bad we didn’t come this far with Lanis, SPHP! He would have loved it!
Yeah, this is incredible, Loop! Didn’t realize all these additional waterfalls were up here.
Above this grandest waterfall of the canyon, Larch Mountain Trail No. 441 climbed further up the W side of the canyon, still going upstream. Larch Mountain (4,055 ft.) was miles ahead, but that wasn’t where Lupe was going. SPHP began looking for Wahkeena Trail No. 420.
However, the junction didn’t appear for a while. By the time Lupe came to it, another bridge over Multnomah Creek was visible farther up the canyon. Loop never got that far, taking No. 420 instead.
Wahkeena Trail No. 420 started out doubling back to the NW, climbing gradually along the steep mountainside above the Multnomah Creek canyon. Lupe passed through a large region of burnt forest. Glimpses of the Columbia River eventually appeared once the trail curved SW.
Lush undergrowth prospering below the burnt forest often prevented Lupe from getting to enjoy these views.
Long sections of the trail were flat, which made for rapid progress. That changed once Lupe came to a junction with Devils Rest Trail No. 420C.
I presume we’re on our way to Devils Rest now, right, SPHP?
Yup!
Devils Rest Trail No. 420C immediately began switchbacking up a steep slope. Despite the switchbacks, the trail climbed quite aggressively as Lupe journeyed through a green tunnel of exotic botanical specimens. Ferns, plants with giant leaves, and clusters of red and orange berries were all part of such a luxurious display that at times SPHP couldn’t even see the trail.
Lupe had seen several hikers on Wahkeena Trail No. 420, but only one appeared on Devils Rest Trail No. 420C. A girl, also heading up, passed SPHP on the switchbacks. After gaining hundreds of feet of elevation, the rate of climb diminished.
As the trail began leveling out, lively caterpillars that looked like Woolly Bears, but were bright yellow, inched as rapidly as possible across the path. Lupe came to a big stand of spent fireweed where thousands of seeds were blowing away in the breeze.
Soon after passing the fireweed, the trail ran along the rim of the upper end of the Wahkeena Creek valley. 0.5 mile away, a heavily forested hill could be seen to the SW. It wasn’t very high, or remarkable in any way.
Think that’s Devils Rest (2,400 ft.), Looper.
Really? Not going to see much over there, are we, SPHP?
Maybe not. Sure doesn’t look all that promising from here, Loop.
Lupe came to another trail junction. No signage. The girl that had passed SPHP on the switchbacks was sitting nearby, meditating.
Beyond this junction, Devils Rest Trail No. 420C gradually curved W, still following the rim of the valley. The trail was wide, smooth, and perfectly flat. The trunks of large trees were blackened by fire, but the forest had survived here. Ferns grew below the trees, but the tall vegetation that had hemmed Lupe in earlier was gone.
Lupe came to a wooden bridge across a tiny stream. Eventually the trail curved SW away from the rim of the valley, winding through the forest. A second unsigned junction appeared. The trail to the R went uphill, so Lupe followed it. 250 feet got her to a collection of mossy boulders next to a lightly fire-scarred tree that bore a wooden sign.
1:24 PM, 60ºF, Devils Rest (2,400 ft.) – Two clusters of mossy boulders separated by 50 feet constituted the summit of Devils Rest. Both were buried deep in the forest, confirming fears of a complete lack of views. Lupe easily leapt up to the top of the very highest boulder, which was a tall, rather skinny one among the group toward the W.
Lupe was still standing on the true summit when a woman appeared. She claimed to be a landscape photographer. Relinquishing the true summit, Loop and SPHP moved to the NE collection of boulders, which was only nominally lower.
Apparently Landscape Photographer Lady wasn’t overly impressed with Devils Rest. A few minutes, and she was outta here! However, before she left, she imparted an important tip to SPHP. The trail that continued straight where Loopster had turned R to come up to Devils Rest was a shortcut to Angels Rest.
Interesting, timely, and useful information, indeed! Neither SPHP’s maps, nor any of the posted trail maps, showed that trail. If Lupe could go that way, she could save several miles, plus a bunch of unnecessary elevation loss and gain, versus returning to Wahkeena Trail No. 420, and then proceeding on to Angels Rest.
After Landscape Photographer Lady left, Meditation Girl appeared. For a long time, she sat silently over by the true summit. Meanwhile, Lupe was perfectly content, enjoying the NE boulder cluster. SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw, congratulating Loopster on her successful ascent of Devils Rest (her first ever Oregon peak!), and split a chocolate coconut bar with her.
Getting comfy on a bed of short pine needles in a cleft between two of the mossy boulders, Lupe then had some Taste of the Wild and water. Meditation Girl could take as long as she liked. Loop was in no hurry.
Meditation Girl took her sweet time, but eventually vanished, never to be seen again. The American Dingo remained, extending her Devils Rest visit. Lupe sniffed about and scrambled on some of the rocks of the NE cluster before returning to the true summit again.
No one else appeared. Her traditional summit hour complete, Lupe left the mossy boulders of Devils Rest alone in the quiet forest. Returning to the last junction, Lupe followed Landscape Photographer Lady’s advice, taking the mysterious shortcut to Angels Rest.
The trail headed gradually down a jungley slope deep in the forest. After only 200 feet, a sign appeared ahead.
Appears we’re on the Foxglove Trail, Loop.
Beyond the sign, Foxglove Way headed W down through a secluded part of the jungle at a pretty good clip, gradually curving NW. At the bottom of this medium length decent was another trail junction.
No signage. Now what?
Looking around more carefully, actually there was some signage. A little back up Foxglove Way, two signs were nailed to a tree.
Angels Rest was L (W) at this junction, which made sense. A little past the junction, another sign confirmed that Lupe was going the right way.
Whether or not Lupe was still on Foxglove Way wasn’t clear, but SPHP presumed she was. From the junction, the trail slowly gained 80 feet of elevation before topping out and beginning a long and equally gradual descent. This entire region was forested, too.
Lupe came to a creepy tree all hung with moss, but it really wasn’t scary in the middle of the afternoon.
After a fairly long downhill stretch, a clearing that was still quite a bit lower could be seen ahead near the edge of the mountain.
That must be Angels Rest, Loop!
The trail continued W straight for it. Shortly before getting there, Lupe came to yet another junction.
Lupe kept going W toward the clearing. Two minutes, and she had her best view yet of Angels Rest, an uneven 800 foot long ridge extending WNW out from the rest of the mountain toward the Columbia River.
3:14 PM, 72ºF, Angels Rest (1,600 ft.) – A 15 mph breeze was blowing out of the NNE as Lupe reached Angels Rest. The trail passed an initial rock formation along the N edge that provided a great viewpoint. Near a low spot just a little farther on, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 angled up from the SE. This was the route to the closest trailhead 2 miles farther W down by the Columbia River.
Ignoring that option, Lupe continued WNW along the spur that went out onto Angels Rest, pausing often to enjoy the views from a series of scenic rock formations along the N edge. Unfortunately, the air was somewhat smoky, especially toward the W, but at least the smoke wasn’t terrible.
The true summit of Angels Rest, to the extent there was one, was located up on a large rock formation near the E end of the ridge just beyond the low point. Naturally, Lupe went up there for a look around.
The Angels Rest ridge was a little lower and wider as Lupe continued on toward the WNW end. Many bushes and a few trees covered most of the center and S side of the ridge, while the N side was more open.
At the far end, the N side of the ridge dropped toward a region of solid rock with a fabulous panoramic view of the Columbia River gorge. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone at all on Foxglove Way after leaving Devils Rest, but visitors swarmed over Angels Rest. A couple of young women with a dog had taken possession of the barren rocks right along the edge.
It had been a long trek. Lupe was in no great rush. Taking shelter from the sun among the bushes nearby, where she still had a spectacular view, it was time for a break. SPHP congratulated the American Dingo on her successful “ascent” of Angels Rest, which had been nearly all downhill, then shared the second (and last!) chocolate coconut bar with her. Loop then saw fit to polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild, as well.
A big drink of water, and the Carolina Dog conked out, enjoying the cool breeze in the shade of the bushes.
Throngs of people came and went, many going almost right down to the two young women, and sometimes talking to them. They didn’t budge, though, retaining their premier spot.
Studying the view while Loopster snoozed, SPHP suddenly realized that Silver Star Mountain (4,360 ft.) was right across the Columbia River! Almost every high point the American Dingo had visited yesterday was in sight, plus Larch Mountain (3,480 ft.) (the one in Washington), too!
It had to happen, and finally did. The two young women departed. Their prime viewpoint was vacant!
No rest for the wicked, Looper! C’mon, let’s go down there!
Wicked! This is Angel’s Rest, SPHP!
Can’t fool me, sly Dingo. I saw you taking it mighty easy up at Devils Rest not so long ago!
Almost instantly, more people arrived. Relinquishing the primo spot, Lupe followed a use trail counter-clockwise around the end of the ridge. At the far W end along the S side, a small opening provided probably the most splendid view of all from Angels Rest.
Gosh, too bad it’s so smoky this way, Loop. What a magnificent sight!
I bet our friend, Jobe Wymore, has seen this view at sunset countless times, SPHP. Can you imagine that? He climbed Angels Rest almost daily for years!
Yeah, this must be absolutely amazing at sunset! And just think, if we had been here 216 years ago, we could have seen Lewis & Clark sail by, almost at the end of their journey to the Pacific Ocean. They must have been happy!
No, I don’t think so, SPHP. They came in November when the weather was lousy. Remember when we went to Dismal Nitch with Lanis? And Lewis & Clark also named Cape Disappointment. We’re having a much better time here today than Lewis & Clark ever did.
Lupe had been at Angels Rest for more than an hour already. Getting to be late afternoon, and it was a long way back. Before departing, Lupe returned to the Angels Rest summit, and spent a little while exploring and sniffing some more among the interesting rock formations.
5:17 PM, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 – After returning to the junction near Angels Rest where the sign had pointed the way to Wahkeena Falls, Lupe went that way. Miles to go, but Wahkeena Falls would be a considerable shortcut back to Multnomah Falls compared to going all the way back to Devils Rest again.
It was a beautiful early evening with sunlight streaming through the burnt forest illuminating the tall, lush undergrowth. Angels Rest Trail No. 415 went gradually uphill at first, before leveling out at a high point where there was a junction with a shortcut back to Foxglove Way. From there, No. 415 was level, or nearly so, as it wound along the mountain working its way generally NE.
After gaining some elevation following a stream before crossing it, the trail turned N, beginning a long descent. Eventually curving E, then S, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 was going NE again when Lupe finally reached Wahkeena Trail No. 420.
Down, down, down! Turning NNW (L) at Wahkeena Trail No. 420, Lupe followed it nearly 1.5 miles down to Hwy 30, an easy trek on good trail past many beautiful sights. Both Fairy Falls, not far from the top, and Wahkeena Falls, near the bottom, were definite highlights. Wahkeena Creek was gorgeous all the way, as it cascaded down the steep valley.
7:14 PM, 78ºF, RAV4 – Devils Rest, Angels Rest, Multnomah Falls and so many others – what a fabulous day it had been! Lupe had made a giant loop with wonderful sights lurking around every bend. Still light out, too! Plenty of time for a pleasant evening drive E through the awesome Columbia River Gorge on I-84.
The sun was down, and it was getting dark when a weary Carolina Dog reached Hood River. Far enough. Dinner, then a long snooze ahead!
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