Day 13 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!
11:15 AM, USFS Road No. 2870 (2860?), Olympic Peninsula – Two signs by the turn onto the side road made no mention USFS Road No. 120, or the Upper Dungeness trailhead, but this had to be the turn SPHP was looking for, didn’t it? Going to give it a whirl.
Level, or close to it most of the way, the narrow side road traversed a steep, forested mountainside. Thankfully, no oncoming traffic! SPHP was glad when a roomy parking area appeared more than 1.5 miles in.
Think we’ve arrived, Looper!
12:11 PM, 65ºF, Upper Dungeness trailhead – Finally ready, SPHP strapped on the pack. Despite leaving the North Cascades while it was still dark this morning, it was already noon. Not good. Regardless, Lupe set off for the end of USFS Road No. 120, coming to a smaller, shadier parking area only 100 feet from the big one.
The road ended at the far end of this smaller lot. No signage here, either, but next to a big stump, a trail headed into the forest.
Look at these blue skies, SPHP! Have to admit, taking the ferry back to the Olympic Peninsula was a great idea! Where are we going, anyway?
Silly to be going anywhere this late in the day, Loop. It’s a big climb! We’ll shoot for Baldy (6,827 ft.), though, at a minimum. Think we can do that.
And what would be the maximum, SPHP?
The real prize is Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.), Loopster! Would love to get there, but it’s a long way. Guess we’ll just have to see how feasible it looks from Baldy.
Gray Wolf Ridge! It’ll be Brown & White Dingo Ridge by the time I’m through with it, SPHP!
Hah! I hope you’re right, Looper!
The “big climb” started off with an easy stroll down to Mueller Creek, the only water Lupe would come to today. Wading through the stream, the Carolina Dog wisely helped herself to a cold drink before continuing up the opposite bank. After a 20 foot rise, the single track trail leveled out on an old roadbed.
At first the roadbed was shady, but Lupe soon came to a sunnier stretch. 200 yards past Mueller Creek, a few sticks across the road marked where she needed to leave it. A distinct trail veered off to the R here, climbed 20 or 30 feet, then leveled out, paralleling the now unseen lower route for 200 or 300 feet, before turning W (R) directly up the mountain.
A long steep climb had begun. Not super steep, but steep enough. SPHP paused frequently for breathers. The trail was easy to follow as Lupe climbed steadily higher. Few curves or switchbacks to ease the rate of ascent. Leafy plants covered the floor of a fairly open forest.
After gaining 350 feet of elevation, the American Dingo reached another old roadbed. 25 feet to the R, a rotten log across this road marked where the trail continued higher.
Believe I read about this spot online, Loop. We’re at about 3,550 feet here.
Is that good, SPHP?
Heh. A bit better than where we started out, but we’re just getting started!
From the rotten log, the trail ran up a short slope of packed dirt before vanishing into the forest. Nothing would change now until Lupe got at least another 2,000 feet higher. Still heading directly up a ridge that looked virtually the same as the rest of the mountainside, Loop charged up the trail as fast as SPHP’s heart, lungs, and legs would allow.
No views, only trees. The character of the forest varied somewhat from one region to the next, but these changes were more subtle than abrupt. Up every step of the way! No flat or downhill stretches. In some places, young trees crowded the path, in others, the forest was more open.
Relentlessly steep! SPHP paused frequently for breathers. The good news was that the trail was always easy to follow.
Lupe eventually passed a wooden “No Stoves Beyond This Point” sign. Checking the topo map, SPHP decided that might mean she’d reached the wilderness boundary at roughly 4,800 feet. A while later, a white sign with black lettering was spotted somewhat off the trail. That one said simply “National Forest Boundary”.
The steepest part was early on, but the average rate of ascent diminished so slowly that change was virtually imperceptible for a long way. Not until the trail finally began trending NW, instead of W, did improvement become more noticeable.
Loop had already gained a lot of elevation by the time a small clearing appeared ahead. The trail curved L, bypassing it, but this seemed like a good spot to take a break. The opening was level, round, and covered with small flat rocks. A heavily forested high point a few hundred feet higher was in sight.
Chocolate coconut bar, Loop?
Thought you’d never ask, SPHP! How are we doing, anyway?
Hard to say, Looper, but we must have made decent progress by now.
Returning to the trail, Lupe encountered something she hadn’t before. Just past the small clearing, several big trees had fallen across the trail. Didn’t affect the Carolina Dog at all. She trotted below the mess, while SPHP had to crawl over it, or circle by off-trail. Happily, deadfall was confined to this one little section.
The trail was clear again as the American Dingo continued on. The rate of ascent was finally starting to slow enough to make a difference. The forest was beginning to thin out, too. Lupe started coming to clearings where Tyler Peak (6,364 ft.) was in sight off to the NE.
The trail steepened again before finally leveling out. Progress was rapid along this flat stretch, which went on for quite a long way. Eventually, a partially open hillside appeared ahead. Leaving the forest, Loopster climbed through a meadow of dry grass.
Looking W (L), the meadow extended 500 feet higher, all the way up to Peak 6531. The American Dingo could have gone straight up to it, but SPHP felt the trail was plenty steep enough.
After crossing the meadow, the trail continued along the edge of the next forest, entering it shortly before reaching a ridgeline. Lupe promptly came to a junction.
R was the way to Tyler Peak. Lupe instead turned L, starting what was now only a 300 foot climb up to Peak 6531. Quickly emerging from the forest, there was a fairly flat part of the meadow off to the L.
The trail to Peak 6531, however, stayed toward the R along the NW edge of the ridge. As she climbed, Looper could now see Baldy (6,827 ft.), her minimum objective, off to the W.
4:02 PM, Peak 6531 – Lupe stood on a little rock outcropping enjoying a terrific view of Tyler Peak (6,364 ft.). The Strait of Juan de Fuca, many islands, and even parts of Canada were visible beyond it, but the view was quite hazy that far out.
Peak 6531’s summit was small, but the SW slope wasn’t steep, so there was plenty of room to relax. Pausing to rest for a few minutes, Loop had unobstructed views in all directions. 0.7 mile due W, Baldy (6,827 ft.) was only 300 feet higher. Looked like an easy trek.
Lots more to see here, too! An enormous ridge to the SE ran for miles, many peaks strung out along it. The Needles, a collection of even higher, rugged peaks, was visible to the SW beyond the end of the giant Royal Creek canyon. A closer peak, along the near side of that same canyon, caught the eye.
The upper slopes were all gray.
Is that it, SPHP? Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.)?
Yeah! Gotta be, Looper! Let’s get to Baldy, and have a look! Maybe there’s still time to get to Gray Wolf before dark?
Abandoning Peak 6531, Lupe headed W.
The only potentially questionable part of the trek to Baldy was a forested stretch that might hide some rough ground.
Happily, the forested region proved no worse than the rest of the route. Following use trails, Lupe wound through it without difficulty. Once past the trees, all that remained was a 400 foot open trudge higher.
Baldy had a bit of an E shoulder, a rocky high point that seemed worth a stop along the way. Lupe scrambled up there for a quick look around.
The E shoulder was a magnificent viewpoint in its own right, but wasn’t the top. Baldy’s summit was only 0.1 mile farther W now. A couple of minutes on the E shoulder, and the Carolina Dog was on her way.
4:50 PM, 57ºF, Baldy (6,827 ft.) – A semi-circular rock fortress, no doubt intended as a wind break, stood 15 feet N of a rocky true summit only modestly higher than the rest of the terrain. 100 feet farther W, amid a slightly lower collection of rocks, one stood on end, seemingly marking the W end of the summit region.
With fabulous views in all directions, just getting to Baldy was a worthy accomplishment itself!
Somewhat surprisingly, no cairns, no registry, no survey benchmarks.
And that makes no difference to me, SPHP, but there better be a chocolate coconut bar! Baldy’s been a monster climb! How much elevation have we gained, anyway?
You’re in luck, when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, Looper! I’ll split one with you, and you can have some Taste of the Wild, too. Baldy is about 3,600 net feet of elevation gain from where we started. More like 3,800 feet total.
No wonder I’m tired, SPHP! Mind if we rest here for a while?
Feel the same way, Loop. I’m ready for a break, too.
After dispatching the chocolate coconut bar, plus half of the Taste of the Wild supply, Lupe laid down on the dirt next to SPHP.
Did you see that huge mountain way off to the SW, SPHP? The one with some big snowfields or glaciers on it?
Yup. Believe that’s Mount Olympus (7,969 ft.), Loop. Kind of amazing to think that we can see it from here!
Suppose we’ll ever get to see Mount Olympus from Gray Wolf Ridge, SPHP?
Tough question. Hard to say. Time was flying by. Gray Wolf Ridge was out there now, tantalizingly close, less than 1.5 miles away as the crow flies. The sight of it was absolutely inspiring, but energy and the will to do all that was required to get there seemed to be ebbing away. Baldy had done that. Maybe Baldy was good enough?
Now or never, sweet puppy, or we’ll run out of time. Want to go for it?
Yes, but not really, SPHP. Wish I had my Dingo wings.
Reluctantly, Lupe followed SPHP down Baldy’s SW slope. At first, it was easy, but a lip was ahead. How steeply would the mountain drop away beyond it? Would it even be possible to get down to the saddle leading to Peak 6520, a high point on the way to Gray Wolf Ridge, or would that require technical skills? Maybe SPHP would just chicken out?
Plenty steep, that was for sure. SPHP was a little doubtful. Not technical, though, just a long way down a fairly featureless slope.
Oh, think I can manage this, Loop. Just going to pick my way down slow and easy. Have fun sniffing around! You’re going to have some time on your paws while I do this.
Loose! A pile of scree gave way with every step. SPHP was consumed with guilt for destroying the mountain. Between channels of the loose stuff, ribbons of tundra held about half of the slope together. Which was worse? Trample the delicate tundra? Or erode away it’s weak nearby support by continuing to gouge it away?
Both choices seemed bad. What seemed even worse was contemplating having to come back up this same slope later on in the dark. Sticking with the loose scree rather than the tundra, SPHP tried to banish the thought, concentrating on the task at paw. Plenty of evidence around that others had made this same choice, too.
Meanwhile, Lupe wandered effortlessly back and forth along the slope as impulse and her nose led her. Almost as good as another rest break at the rate SPHP was going.
At last the grade began to diminish. The worst was over. SPHP was able to pick up the pace. Reaching the saddle leading to Peak 6520, Loopster crossed it, and started up.
Growing weariness aside, the trek to the top of Peak 6520 was easy. Part of the way, a use trail stayed on loose scree to the R (NW) of a large intact strip of crunchy dry tundra that covered a long section of the ridgeline.
6:11 PM, Peak 6520 – The summit here was sort of like Peak 6531, a little bigger and flatter, perhaps, but equally barren and capped by a similar minor rock outcropping. Lupe made it clear that she wanted to rest, but there wasn’t time for that.
Another big drop was ahead. Fortunately, not nearly as steep as coming down off Baldy had been. Unenthusiastically, the weary Carolina Dog went on.
Maybe it was the time of day, the slanting rays of the evening sun? Maybe it was the easier terrain after getting past Baldy? Or maybe the American Dingo now sensed the urgency SPHP felt?
Whatever the reason, as Lupe crossed that last saddle S of Peak 6520 and started up Gray Wolf Ridge, something changed. Her former reluctance vanished. A second wind! Facing a 1,000 foot climb, energy, enthusiasm, and determination reappeared. The Carolina Dog willingly led the way.
An initial short climb led to a level plain of dry tundra. Gray Wolf Ridge now loomed ahead, a trail snaking higher before veering R to angle up a long, steep slope of gray soil.
The path was narrow. Loose scree here, too, but beneath the surface, the soil was firm. Lupe climbed and climbed. SPHP trudged behind her. At last, it appeared possible to regain the ridgeline.
An odd cluster of rocks stuck out in all directions where Looper finally regained the ridge. Nearby a steep, but relatively short climb led up to a minor high point, a rocky knob from which the ridge ahead angled more toward the WSW. It all looked quite doable from here.
Not much farther! Less than 0.25 mile to the summit!
A relatively easy trudge WSW got Lupe up to a large rounded hump of soil and sparse tundra. The wind was blowing harder here.
Looking S, a worrisome sight. The hump became more of a ridge as it rose toward the prow of the mountain, a thick cap of off-white rock.
Whether Lupe could get up that steep-sided cap was debatable.
As Lupe headed for the prow, SPHP felt that it might be best to turn SW along the base of the cap seeking a feasible route up. However, upon reaching the prow, a use trail angled only slightly R before vanishing as it led directly into the rock.
Twice Lupe got stuck. Fortunately, SPHP was able to lift her high enough to get her past both otherwise insurmountable spots.
Second boost did the trick! Only a short, easy stroll higher remained.
7:45 PM, 55ºF, Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.) – An incredible, unforgettable half an hour was all Lupe would have before the sun would sink below the horizon. Terribly sad, yet thrilling!
Loopster! Congratulations! Can’t believe we made it! We’re really here! Gray Wolf Ridge! Fabulous job, sweet puppy!
No wolves in sight, SPHP! Brown and white American Dingo Ridge at the moment!
Ha, ha! Yes! I love it! Brown and white American Dingo Ridge it is!
Gray Wolf Ridge’s summit was much smaller than SPHP expected. Two high points, so close to the same elevation that it was hard to say which might technically be the true summit, were at opposite ends of an 80 – 100 foot long ridge that cliffed out to the E, but sloped only moderately toward the W.
A brass survey benchmark was attached to the top of a flat rock over by the N summit where Lupe stood now, as SPHP shook her paw.
The S summit was a more dangerous perch. The highest rock jutted out into space. Lupe got very close to it, but SPHP wouldn’t let her go quite all the way to the top.
Other than a chilly 10 mph W breeze, conditions were perfect! The air was clear. Nearby peaks could be seen with great clarity. A more than half full moon was well above the E horizon. After photos at both high points, Lupe and SPHP sat facing W toward the sinking sun.
Look! No smoke, Loop! We’ve finally found the clear blue skies that we set out in search of when we left home.
A rare moment on this Dingo Vacation, that’s for sure, SPHP! So glad we kept going! What a fabulous mountain!
Celebration time! The third and final chocolate coconut bar vanished. Lupe polished off the rest of the Taste of the Wild supply.
Trying to take it all in as much as possible while light remained, Loop and SPHP traipsed back and forth across the little summit ridge multiple times. Baldy and Tyler Peak stood out back to the NE. Two big peaks dominated to the SE. Mount Constance (7,756 ft.)? Warrior Peak (7,320 ft.)? SPHP didn’t know.
Mount Walkinshaw (7,378 ft.) was closest of many jagged peaks to the S. The Needles region came next, then Mount Deception (7,788 ft.). Mount Mystery (7,639 ft.) was even farther S.
Precious minutes rapidly ticked away. Sadly, no pause button in real life. Some close ups, last glances at the tremendous views to the S, and Lupe stood for the final time near the S summit. Even the alpenglow was fading.
The big show wasn’t over yet, though! Attention now shifted to the WNW where earth’s glowing star still hovered above the horizon.
Sunset from Gray Wolf Ridge! We are so lucky, SPHP!
Far to the SW was another amazing sight, a glacier-clad peak, mightiest of the entire Olympic Peninsula!
The show went on, a once-in-a-lifetime must see event. A magnificent display it was! Transfixed, Lupe and SPHP stayed through the credits.
8:24 PM, Gray Wolf Ridge – The world was gray. Clouds had moved in, borne by the chilly W wind. Still light out, but not for long. Dusk would be coming soon. Lupe stood by the pack close to the N summit.
Sunset might be over and done with, but the American Dingo’s Gray Wolf Ridge adventure wasn’t. Gotta do it all over again, in reverse!
Gah! Better get with it!
A need for speed! Light was fading fast as SPHP grabbed the pack, sorry to be leaving Gray Wolf Ridge so soon, yet elated that Lupe had managed to arrive in time to have enjoyed the experience. A fond farewell to the mountain, then –
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Carefully, carefully, though! SPHP had trouble recognizing the lower spot where Lupe had been hoisted up the prow. Delay was not good, but SPHP finally figured it out, and helped the Carolina Dog down. An easy trek across the rounded hump, then ENE down along the upper ridge.
Fading light made the descent tricky. SPHP kept losing the use trail. Lupe led the way, repeatedly finding it again, often much lower.
Dark! The flashlight emerged before the Carolina Dog was completely down off Gray Wolf Ridge. At least the worst was behind her by then. Batteries were weak. SPHP didn’t bother with stopping to change them.
A beautiful evening! Moonlight brightened the edges of clouds in the night sky, shedding a gleam on the mountain, too. Desperately weary, Lupe began climbing toward Peak 6520 again. Repeatedly pawing the back of SPHP’s legs, she politely begged for mercy.
And so it was. Again and again. Resting while sitting in the dark on the bone dry tundra, watching the clouds sail by in the moonlit sky, as the W wind blew. Then on once more, a little farther, until the tap of the tired, gentle paw. Please stop! Rinse and repeat.
What had been easy during the day, now felt uncertain, dangerous. Hard to find the way, hard to judge distances, hard to stay oriented. Descents brought on fear of the abyss, that black void ahead. All these sudden drops. Careful! One step at a time!
8-19-21, 12:07 AM, Baldy – Mutually exhausted, Lupe nestled on SPHP’s lap. She’d perked up some during the trek up Baldy, but wanted to rest again now. For SPHP, coming up Baldy had been wretched, endless, but no more big climbs left. Going to be alright. Peak 6531 yet to come, but that wouldn’t be so bad.
Layered up, SPHP sat facing away from the wind. What an amazing night! Clouds threatened the moon, but elsewhere, silver stars shone brightly. There were other lights, too.
See that, Loop? All those glittering lights below? Civilization! That’s Port Angeles, and islands in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Way out there, Canada, and the E shore of Puget Sound, too!
Midnight on Baldy. Half delirious, it was like being in a dream.
For a long time, no one moved. Then somehow, the summoned strength to carry on.
SPHP was elated when Lupe reached the trail junction near the flat part of the meadow below Peak 6531. Maintained trail and downhill now all the rest of the way!
That joy was premature. The trail had been fine, obvious on the way up, but SPHP couldn’t follow it in the dark. So frustrating! It kept vanishing in the meadow. Was Lupe too high or too low? Impossible to say. Up and down! Around and around. No luck. No clue.
Two efforts both ended circling all the way back up to the trail junction.
8-19-21, 2:52 AM, flat part of the meadow – No more! Laying down on the dirt and thin grass, SPHP clicked off the flashlight. Gloves, hat, all layers on. Lupe huddled closer.
Try to sleep, sweet puppy!
Nearby, the cold wind sighed in the trees.
8-19-21, 4:32 AM – Shivering, SPHP woke. Black as pitch. Definitely colder now, the wind roaring. Where the Carolina Dog was still cuddled up, the only warmth in the world. Another hour and a half till dawn.
How, you feeling, Loop? I can’t take this any longer. We have to move.
I’m lots better, SPHP. Ready when you are!
Good! Changing the batteries in this flashlight. We’ll find that trail yet!
Worked like a charm!
8-19-21, 7:19 AM, 57ºF, Upper Dungeness trailhead – Sunny and bright! SPHP moved the RAV4 to the shady part of the trailhead, fed a famished American Dingo, and chowed down, too.
A beautiful morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP were going to see any of the rest of it. Both off to Dingo Dreamland, climbing together forever, to see a blazing sunset high atop Gray Wolf Ridge.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
GPS track by Kevin Lester (10-9-21)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations to New Mexico, Wyoming & the West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
