The Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness & A Night on Bald Mountain (7-10-13)

Early on the gorgeous summer morning of July 10, 2013, Lupe and SPHP set out on their 2nd Annual Great Dingo Vacation.  Unlike 2012, this time they were alone.  Once on the road, SPHP could hardly remember ever feeling so free.  Although SPHP had told everyone that Lupe was headed for the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies, the truth was that Lupe and SPHP could have gone anywhere and done anything in the next 3 or 4 weeks and no one would have been the wiser.

Lupe in the G6 ready to hit the road on her 2nd Annual Great Dingo Vacation 7-10-13
What a cutie pie!  Lupe in the G6 ready to hit the road on her 2nd Annual Great Dingo Vacation 7-10-13

SPHP turned off the cell phone shortly after leaving town.  It and the radio would not be turned on again until dingo vacation was over.  SPHP had the windows on the G6 partly down so Lupe could sniff the wonderful cool morning air.  Lupe was riding shotgun and kept a close eye out for cows to bark at.  It was plenty noisy in the G6 with the frantic dingo sounding off every 30 seconds.  There were big beautiful clouds over the Black Hills, but the clouds were smaller by the time Lupe was crossing into Wyoming on I-90.

The plan for the first day was to head to the glorious Bighorn Mountains in N central Wyoming.  There was plenty of time to get there.  In 2012, when Lanis had been along, SPHP had wanted to see some new territory and had Lanis turn N on Hwy 14/16 at Gillette, WY to go see Spotted Horse.  There had proven to be just one little store there, but there was a spotted horse!  SPHP thought it would be fun for Lupe to go see it again this year.

Lupe at Spotted Horse, WY
Lupe at Spotted Horse, WY  7-10-13

Lupe and SPHP took the northern route into the Bighorns on Hwy 14A through Ranchester and Dayton up to Burgess Junction.  Near Burgess Junction, SPHP turned N on a gravel road for a couple of miles.  The road led to the North Tongue River and SPHP parked the G6 near it.  A huge gorgeous field of wildflowers stretched unbroken upstream.  Young Lupe, only 2.5 years old, had arrived at the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness!

Lupe in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness, 7-10-13
Lupe in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness, 7-10-13
Lupe cools off in the North Tongue River, Bighorn Mountains, WY
Lupe cools off in the North Tongue River, Bighorn Mountains, WY

Flowers in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness 7-10-13

Lupe & SPHP roamed upstream.  Lupe sometimes got into the crystal clear North Tongue River to cool off and drink.  Colorful butterflies flitted through the air, dragonflies zoomed around, and bees buzzed among the infinity of blossoms.  Lupe raced, bounded and sniffed her way through the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness.

SPHP wandered up onto a nearby small ridge and followed it to a forested hill.  Lupe and SPHP climbed up onto the rocks from where there was a view of the surrounding open fields, forests and mountains.  Black and brown cows grazed near the river below.  The scene was typical of the beauty of the Bighorns.  It was great to be alive and free!

Lupe went as far as the nearby forested hill at the right of this photo.
Lupe went as far as the nearby forested hill at the right of this photo.
Bighorn Mountains from the rocky hill Lupe climbed.
Bighorn Mountains from the rocky hill Lupe climbed.
Lupe surveys the scene above the North Tongue River.
Lupe surveys the scene from above the North Tongue River.
Exploring among the rocks.
Exploring among the rocks.

The afternoon wore on.  Sadly Lupe’s time in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness drew to an end.  SPHP headed the G6 W on Hwy 14A from Burgess Junction.  Just E of Bald Mountain near the W end of the Bighorns, SPHP turned the G6 onto a side road.  The only clouds were far on the western horizon.  Very fortunately, the weather was going to be clear this evening.

Despite not really being very well equipped for it, SPHP managed to lug 2 sleeping bags, and a pillow or two up to the summit of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).  From there, Lupe and SPHP continued on along the gently rounded ridge to the slightly lower SW part of the mountain.

Lupe just E of Bald Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, WY
Lupe just E of Bald Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, WY

There Lupe & SPHP spent the evening with a sweeping view from the E around to the S and W.  Lupe and SPHP searched the mountain.  SPHP almost despaired of finding them, and then suddenly stumbled upon the names.  Very happily, SPHP fixed them.

After the sun went down, SPHP persuaded Lupe to lay down in a sleeping bag for a little while.  That wouldn’t last.  The stars came out and the universe was on display.  Far below and away on the prairies to the S and W, gradually the distant lights of little Wyoming towns started to shine too.  A sliver of a moon was about to set in the W.

There was no tent.  Lupe was going to spend the night under the stars.  Her amazement and excitement eventually proved uncontainable.  She slept well for a few hours and then SPHP awoke to suddenly realize she was gone.  Lupe hadn’t gone far though, SPHP soon heard the tinkle of the little tag on her collar as she ran around beneath the stars.  Lupe could not be persuaded to lay down again.  SPHP tried to sleep.

Shortly before sunset on Bald Mountain.
Shortly before sunset on Bald Mountain.
Lupe on Bald Mountain, WY 7-10-13
Looking S from Bald Mountain.

Looking SE from Bald Mountain 7-10-13

But I'm not sleepy!!!!
But I’m not sleepy!!!!   Lupe with a big night of sniffing and racing around beneath the stars ahead of her.

For hours, SPHP dozed fitfully, while listening every few minutes for the tinkle of the little tag on Lupe’s collar.  Lupe raced back and forth in the darkness sniffing at top speed the open ground on top of Bald Mountain.  She returned to check in with SPHP every 10 or 15 minutes.

Lupe and SPHP were at nearly 10,000 feet.   The Milky Way blazed spectacularly above as the rest of the universe sped away as it has been doing for billions of years.  The silence and solitude of being totally alone on a high mountain were primal and magnificent.  Sometime in the wee hours of the night, Lupe was finally willing to lay down on her sleeping bag and SPHP passed out.

Morning on Bald Mountain looking W towards the mountain where the Medicine Wheel Historical Site is located. 7-11-13
Morning on Bald Mountain looking W towards the mountain where the Medicine Wheel Historical Site is located. 7-11-13
Lupe immortalized in stone on Bald Mountain 7-11-13
Lupe immortalized in stone on Bald Mountain 7-11-13
Morning on Bald Mountain looking ESE. 7-13-15
Morning on Bald Mountain looking SE, Bighorn Mountains, WY 7-11-13

A chilly breeze was blowing in the morning.  The fuzzy white heads at the tops of the stems on some kind of plant that covered the area were waving in the breeze, somewhat like dandelions whose seeds didn’t fly away.  The effect was beautiful.  SPHP looked for the place of names again and found it.  SPHP added Lupe’s name to the collection.  Then Lupe and SPHP returned to the summit of Bald Mountain, an easy stroll up a gentle rise to the east.

After a pause at the top of Bald Mountain to absorb the glory of the scene spreading out in every direction, Lupe & SPHP headed down to the G6, a tiny red dot below.

Lupe in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness 7-10-13. May it always be so!
Sweet Lupe in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness 7-10-13. May it always be so!

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Beyond the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness to the Garden of the Gods & The Crack of Doom! (6-11-18)

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The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

Mt. Robson at 12,972 feet is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (though not in all of Canada).  Gorgeous Berg Lake lies at the base of the N face of Mt. Robson at the end of a 21 km trail which passes through the Valley of a Thousand Falls.  Although there is a campground at Berg Lake, dogs are not allowed to stay overnight.  So Lupe made the entire 42 km round trip as a long day hike.  Many other trails are located in the Berg Lake area which would be fun to explore.  At 53.11 °N, Berg Lake is as far N as Lupe has ever been.

The Berg Lake trailhead is located on the Robson River at the end of a 3 km gravel road N of the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Visitor Center in British Columbia, Canada.  The visitor center is about 55 miles W of the town of Jasper, Alberta along the Yellowhead Highway No. 16.

This was a patchy cloudy and foggy morning in Jasper.  SPHP checked the weather forecast at the visitor center shortly after it opened, and was pleasantly surprised to learn the forecast was for sunny skies and 22 °C (72 °F).   With this encouragement, Lupe and SPHP headed W on the Yellowhead Highway to Mt. Robson Provincial Park.  Sure enough, shortly after leaving Jasper the skies cleared and the fog was left behind.  It was a perfect day – cool, comfortable and clear.

Mt. Robson and the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Visitor Center
Mt. Robson and the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Visitor Center

SPHP stopped in at the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center to register and get a free map of the Berg Lake trail.  From there it was a short drive to the Berg Lake trailhead.  There were lots of people and vehicles around, but SPHP found a place to park the G6.  Sometime between 10:30 and 11:00 AM, Lupe crossed the bridge over the beautiful rushing Robson River and set off along the Berg Lake trail through a shady cedar forest.

The Robson River near the Berg Lake Trailhead.
The Robson River near the Berg Lake trailhead.

It was an easy stroll following the river, since the elevation gain was gradual. Before too long Lupe and SPHP fell in with another hiker, a young man from Calgary named Jason.  Jason had saved up money and then gone on a 5 month trip by himself to South America from the prior December to May.  He had visited Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and the Amazon rain forest (although not Brazil).  Sometime during this trip he had taken time to fly to Fiji to see his parents, who were also traveling.

The cedar forest along the Berg Lake trail.
The cedar forest along the Berg Lake trail.

Jason intended to hike just the first 5 or 6 km of the Berg Lake trail as far as Kinney Lake (the first major trail objective), since he was actually on his way to Vancouver.  SPHP found Jason’s tales about his travels very interesting.  Lupe trotted along keeping a sharp watch for squirrels while Jason and SPHP chatted.  It seemed like Kinney Lake was reached in no time at all.  Jason turned back and Lupe and SPHP continued on following the trail, which now went up and down in the forest above the E shore of Kinney Lake.

Lupe in the cedar forest near Kinney Lake.
Lupe in the cedar forest near Kinney Lake.

Past Kinney Lake the trail continued into the Valley of A Thousand Falls.  It was all very beautiful.  SPHP enjoyed seeing Lupe crossing a fun swinging bridge over the Robson River.  The trail started rising steeply once Lupe got to the area of the three main waterfalls a few km above Kinney Lake.  Lupe came first to White Falls, then Falls of the Pool, and finally Emperor Falls.

Lupe after a successful crossing of the swinging bridge beyond Kinney Lake.
Lupe after a successful crossing of the swinging bridge beyond Kinney Lake.
Valley of a Thousand Falls from the Robson River.
Valley of a Thousand Falls from the Robson River.

The falls were all spectacular and powerful, but the hike up started seeming long and hard.  The trail was steep, it was rather warm out, and swarms of biting flies descended upon Lupe and SPHP at every stop for a breather.  SPHP swatted hundreds of flies dead, but it was no use – their numbers were endless.  The only real defense was to press steadily along.

Falls of the Pool on the Robson River.
Lupe at Emperor Falls
Lupe at Emperor Falls

The trail continued to climb after Lupe passed Emperor Falls, but not quite as steeply.  Eventually it leveled out a great deal, and the climb was much more gradual making the trek far more enjoyable again.  Lupe came to a wide valley with various streams of the braided Robson River meandering through it sparkling in the sun.  A bit farther along, Lupe came to a barren rocky landscape which was mostly dry.  By then there was a good view of Mt. Robson.  The Berg and Mist glaciers could be seen coming down the mountain.

Above Emperor Falls approaching Mt. Robson.
Above Emperor Falls approaching Mt. Robson.
Mt. Robson from the Berg Lake trail.
Mt. Robson and the Mist Glacier from the Berg Lake trail.
Lupe approaches the S end of Berg Lake. Berg Glacier is now in view.
Lupe approaches the S end of Berg Lake. Berg Glacier is now in view.

Just past the dry rocky area Lupe crested a small ridge and finally saw Berg Lake ahead.  The trail went into a stunted forest and continued N above the W shore of the lake.  At the far N end of Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP reached the campground 21 km from the trailhead where Lupe had started.  Lupe and SPHP left the trail and went down to join others on the rocky N beach of Berg Lake.

Lupe on the N beach of Berg Lake. Mt. Robson and Berg Glacier across the lake.
Lupe on the N beach of Berg Lake. Mt. Robson and Berg Glacier across the lake.  The Mist Glacier is also at the right side of the photo.
The Berg Glacier on Mt. Robson goes right down into Berg Lake.
The Berg Glacier on Mt. Robson goes right down into Berg Lake.

The view of Mt. Robson (12,972 ft.) towering over Berg Lake was stupendous.  Lupe and SPHP had a clear view of the Berg and Mist glaciers.  Little icebergs that had calved off into Berg Lake from the Berg Glacier were floating in a line heading NW across the lake towards Lupe, driven by a breeze coming from the mountain.  Lupe posed for some photos with Berg Lake, the glaciers and Mt. Robson in the background.  She was hungry too, and eagerly devoured the Taste of the Wild SPHP had brought along for her.

Something catches Lupe's attention at Berg Lake.
Something catches Lupe’s attention at Berg Lake.  Or perhaps she is thinking of going on to the Robson Glacier in the direction she is looking.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.

SPHP would have liked to have gone on further.  A few more kilometers would have brought Lupe to the third and most impressive glacier on Mt. Robson – the Robson glacier, which fills a valley and looks like the typical image of a long flowing river of ice the word glacier conjures up.  What really would have been great was to spend the evening admiring Mt. Robson, camp out at the campground overnight, and spend the next day exploring the area.  The map showed lots of interesting trails around.

However, the reality was that dogs aren’t allowed to camp there overnight.  Pre-registration is required even for the humans.  Lupe and SPHP could not stay.  It was already late afternoon and another 21 km trek had to be made back out to the G6 to end the day.  Lupe and SPHP lingered on the N beach of Berg Lake admiring Mt. Robson for quite a while.  This was the farthest N (53.11°) Lupe had ever been and it was gorgeous!  Inevitably though, the time came to leave.

Mt. Robson, Berg Lake & the Mist Glacier.
Mt. Robson, Berg Lake & the Mist Glacier.

Reluctantly, Lupe and SPHP set off on the 21 km journey back to the G6.  The return hike was long, but very enjoyable.  Since it was getting late in the day, there were fewer and fewer people on the trails.  The scenery was even more beautiful in the evening light as the shadows of the mountains grew.  It certainly didn’t hurt that the way back was downhill either, for SPHP was feeling the effects of the long day.

Heading back. Whitehorn Mountain and the braided stream of the Robson River above Emperor Falls.
Heading back. Whitehorn Mountain (11,152 ft.) and the braided stream of the Robson River above Emperor Falls.

It was 11:18 PM and 59 °F when Lupe finally got back to the G6.  Even at that late hour, that far N there was still a faint twilight in the sky, but it had been pretty dark out in the cedar forest.  Lupe and SPHP had hardly eaten anything all day, so SPHP fixed up Lupe’s bed in the G6, let her leap in for a well deserved rest and gave her some Alpo.  She was pretty famished and devoured 3/4 of a can before she was full and ready to snooze.  SPHP had a Zone bar to get the blood sugar up.  Then Lupe and SPHP went to sleep right there in the G6 at the Mt. Robson trailhead.

The glorious 42 km round trip trek to see Berg Lake and Mt. Robson was the final really long day hike of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and the Canadian Rockies.  At daybreak the next morning, SPHP started the G6 up and began the long drive S back home to the States.  It’s always a bit sad when it’s time to turn around, although there were still a few other stops and shorter hikes to come before Lupe left Canada.

Mt. Robson 7-30-13
Mt. Robson 7-30-13

Perhaps Lupe and SPHP will return some day and get an early enough start to not only reach Berg Lake again, but press on to the Robson Glacier!  Driving S, SPHP thought about that, and about the even bigger dream of going on even further to see Alaska and the Yukon.  Lupe just sat up on her perch enjoying the ride, sniffing the air through the partially open window, and watching for the next adventure – which as far as she knew might be right around the next bend.

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