Days 20-22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!
7-5-22, 7:34 AM – What a gorgeous morning in the Wind River Range! Across the North Creek valley War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) soared into the blue flanked by Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.) on the L, and more distant Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) beyond Jackass Pass on the R.
I’m going to miss Dog Tooth Paradise, SPHP!
Me too, Looper, but this is it, I’m afraid. We’re 100% completely, totally out of food.
We’ve got supplies at the RAV4, though, don’t we?
Of course we do, Loop. Just nothing left in the pack here. Brunch when we get to the trailhead!
Not a soul was on any of the trails, even super popular Big Sandy Trail No. 099. Lupe trotted ahead in fine spirits. SPHP’s spirits improved, too, after stopping to goop up with Eucalyptus cream which helped ward off the mosquitoes. When the opportunity arose, Loop once again took the less traveled route past Diamond Lake and V Lake. A long march, but a scenic one, and downhill or level nearly the entire way. Famished, Loopster arrived back at Big Sandy Opening at 11:07 AM.
By mid-afternoon, the American Dingo was in Lander. 94ºF on the way into town, but it didn’t seem that bad relaxing at the city park beneath the big old cottonwood trees. Loop could always wet her paws in the Middle Popo Agie River, which although quite a bit lower than it had been only 2 weeks ago, still had good flow.
7-6-22 – The morning turned cloudy shortly after sunrise. Only 64ºF at noon leaving Lander, but the day warmed up on the road N. 86ºF in the Wind River Canyon on the way to Thermopolis, hot enough for SPHP to enjoy a swim in Rattler Whirlpool, although Lupe preferred wading or laying in the shade watching.
The hour spent at Rattler Whirlpool was the highlight of the day, but wasn’t all that happened. On the way to Meeteetse, SPHP pulled off Hwy 120 for a while to allow a hailstorm ahead drift off to the E. Rained in Cody while picking up supplies. A little after that, Lupe was enjoying chocolate-coated mini-doughnuts while watching seagulls swooping over Buffalo Bill Reservoir from a pullout along Hwy 14/16/20 with a view of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.).
7-6-22, 7:10 PM, Hwy 14/16/20, 7 miles W of the W end of Buffalo Bill Reservoir –
Well, shoot! Here’s the Shoshone River bridge. How could I have missed the turn, Loop? I was watching for it!
Don’t ask me, SPHP! I’m watching for cows and horses. What turn are you looking for, anyway? Where are we trying to get to?
At the moment, we’re just looking for the Jim Creek trailhead. Should have been a road going N less than a mile back, but I didn’t see one. Hang on, I’ll turn around.
The second pass did the trick. Heading W, the turn had been hidden by a ridge until almost the last moment, but Jim Mountain Road was easy to spot going E. A big brown building and an odd sign were at the turn.
Why so puzzled, SPHP? What do the signs say?
Well, one says this is the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead, which is where we’re trying to get to, although I thought it was Jim Creek, not mountain. The other says “Recreational Users: Please use Four Bear Trailhead 1/4 mile E”.
That is strange, SPHP. Does that mean recreational users aren’t allowed at the Jim Mountain Trailhead? Aren’t we recreational users? Maybe it’s only for business travelers?
Almost does seem to imply we aren’t welcome here, Loop, since we’re most definitely recreational users. After all, this is your Dingo Vacation, not your Dingo Business Trip. Why would that be, though? I’ve never heard of a trailhead that wasn’t for recreational users before. Furthermore, most business travel doesn’t involve an awful lot of wandering around in the mountains.
So, what are we going to do, SPHP?
Well, my Dingo partner in crime, let’s have a look at the Jim Mountain Trailhead before deciding.
Going N on Jim Mountain Road, which was good gravel, the road soon wound steeply up onto a sagebrush-covered ridge before resuming its course N. This whole area was a subdivision of nice homes spaced out on small acreages.
Looking for a turn L on USFS Road No. 405 roughly 1.5 miles from the highway, Wapiti Heights Drive appeared instead, which had to be the same thing, since another sign confirmed this was the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead.
7-6-22, 7:42 PM, Jim Creek Trailhead, Shoshone National Forest – Wapiti Heights Drive wound around to the W losing elevation even faster than the climb up onto this ridge had been. The road passed more homes all the way to the end where No Trespassing signs were near a gate. The gate was open though, so SPHP simply drove through right on up a little rise to the trailhead.
The sun was already getting low when Lupe arrived. SPHP parked the RAV4 at one of 5 or 6 spots separated by long metal pipes evidently meant for vehicles pulling trailers, and the Carolina Dog leapt out. A lone outhouse stood on a small hill. Beyond it a couple of single track trails headed N up a sagebrush-dotted slope toward a 600 foot high wall of brown rock a mile away with a volcanic look about it.
The only trailhead information was the usual boilerplate about being in bear country, and a sign about investing in stocks.
Hmm. “Camping Permitted Only With Saddle/Pack Stock” Knew there was something I was forgetting, Loopster. I forgot to pack a horse!
While Lupe sniffed around the perimeter of the empty parking lot, SPHP noticed lots of prickly pear cactus among the sagebrush. 4 or 5 hitching posts were nearby, but no horse poop, hay, or trampled ground. Despite the homes on the ridge, Jim Creek felt like the trailhead that time forgot.
7-7-22, 8:05 AM, 71ºF, Jim Creek Trailhead – Hardly a cloud in the sky as SPHP got the pack ready. Brilliant morning sun on the line of brown cliffs to the NW highlighted the rugged volcanic stone. Lupe sniffed lazily about, or laid in the shade of the RAV4, watching.
Bringing the tiny house again, SPHP?
Heh, yeah, it’s a long way to Trout Peak (12,244 ft.), Looper. Maybe I’ll just ditch the rain jacket here at the RAV4, though? No rain at all in the forecast the next several days. Do I really need to cart it all the way to Trout Peak and back? Might be better off packing extra sunscreen!
Your call, SPHP. How long will we be gone?
At least 3 days, maybe 4, Loop. Last year Josh Super did Trout in only 2. Took the scenic route way up on the ridges, but as SPHP Not-So-Hot, I’m not at all sure I can go that way, and absolutely positive we won’t make it to Trout Peak and back in any 2 days.
What route are we going to take then, SPHP?
You know, Loop, I’d always figured that we’d try for Trout from the N, from Dead Indian Pass, or come up Dead Indian Creek near Dead Indian campground along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296. That’s such a long trek, though, I wasn’t sure I could lug enough supplies to last us.
I sure wouldn’t be inclined to go that way if I were an Indian, SPHP! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, that’s the way to the Beartooths, isn’t it?
Right on, Looper! Anyway, I’d always wondered what the best approach was, and then one day I saw that Duane Gilliland, Mark Adrian, Desert Rat, Bob Bolton, and Richard Hensley had also been to Trout Peak last year right about this time. They took a series of trails from here at the Jim Creek trailhead that got them close to the mountain. After a look at their GPS tracks and reading their trip reports, I’m convinced we stand a good chance of actually getting to Trout Peak, if we follow their lead. Easier than how Josh Super went, and not as far as coming in from the N.
And you said there are trails most of the way, SPHP? Shouldn’t be that hard then, if they’re in decent shape.
My thoughts, too, Loop. A nice long march with a fair amount of up and down, but no super steep territory until we get close to Trout Peak.
Sounds good! Are you ready yet, SPHP?
Yes! A word to the wise, though, Loopster. Lots of cactus around here, so stick to the trail until we get past it. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Heading N on Trail No. 762, Lupe stayed right at SPHP’s heels. The day was warming up fast beneath the full sun, as the American Dingo went up a long sagebrush-dotted slope. Soon her pink tongue was hanging out. Hardly any shade at all, so whenever a lone, scraggly juniper tree did appear, Lupe wanted to take advantage of it.
A deserty experience, this first long trudge featured beauty, too. Insects hummed among a surprising variety of wildflowers, some of which were on the dreaded cacti.
Climbing steadily, progress was good as the trail headed for the N end of the badlandy volcanic cliffs. After gaining 700 feet of elevation, No. 762 leveled out and turned NW straight for them. A big cairn was up here, and the Jim Creek valley was now in sight to the N.
Near the base of the cliffs, the trail turned N. More trees appeared. The trail bounced along for a bit with little net elevation gain through a land of interesting rock formations. The first, an improbable vertical pillar. Four Bear Benchmark (7,606 ft.) was in view off to the E.
This pillar is quite the landmark, SPHP! What shall we call it?
How about Middle Finger Rock, Looper?
That’s just rude, SPHP!
It was, but the name stuck.
Leaving the rock formations behind, the trail began climbing again as Lupe entered the Jim Creek valley. A nice forest provided welcome relief from the hot sun. At first, Jim Creek could only be heard somewhere well down the slope to the E, but after 0.5 mile, the Carolina Dog came to a ford. Jim Creek was too big for SPHP to rock hop, but not very deep. Wading across was easy, and the cold water felt good on the paws.
0.2 mile beyond the ford, Lupe came to a signed fork. No. 762 angled L here destined for the Jim Mountain (10,430 ft.) region. Trail No. 762.1A, aka the Jim Mountain cut-across, went R. SPHP checked the map.
Stay R here, Loop. Take No. 762.1A.
No. 762.1A continued N up the valley, gradually turning E. Jim Creek had gone the other way, and hadn’t been seen since the ford, anyway. For a while, there was little to be seen except trees.
The trail had been going SE, and was beginning to flatten out and turn E again, when Lupe reached a small clearing. HP9536 and HP9351 were now visible off to the NW. A little past the small clearing, the Carolina Dog came to a much larger one. After going through a gap in a barbed wire fence, No. 762.1A turned NE up a long open slope toward HP8245.
Thousands of white moths flitted among wildflowers and sagebrush. There were big views here with Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.), the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, and Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) all in the distance to the E. Table Mountain (8,504 ft.) was easily identifiable beyond the Shoshone River valley to the S. Already tiring from the long uphill march, even Lupe paused to relax and look around.
Instead of going all the way to the top of HP8245, Trail No. 762.1A curved E upon approaching the steepest part. Lupe traversed a slope of brilliant yellow wildflowers at this turn, beyond which the trail passed more rock formations. A final rocky knob appeared at HP8245‘s SE corner.
Hey, that knob’s kind of cool! Want to get up there, Looper? I’ll give you a boost.
Sure, but be careful. Don’t drop me, SPHP!
According to the topo map, this is the trail’s high point for today, Loop. Want to take a break here? Water and a chocolate coconut bar in it for you, if you do.
If there’d been any doubt about taking a break, which there really wasn’t, the chocolate coconut bar offer sealed the deal. After an assist getting off the knob, Lupe sat down next to SPHP.
So, were done climbing for the day? How high are we here, SPHP?
About 8,120 feet, Loop. I figure we’ve gained roughly 1,900 feet in about 3.5 miles from the trailhead so far. We aren’t done climbing, though, by any means. Quite a bit of elevation gain yet to come, but interspersed with some equally long downhill stretches, too. Won’t have much to show for our trouble other than distance traveled. We’ll have a net loss from here.
Easier than going uphill all the time, SPHP!
True enough, Looper, but you know I always hate to surrender hard won elevation gains just to rinse and repeat.
Nearly noon when Lupe hit Trail No. 762.1A again. Right away there were changes. For the first time, the trail began a long, gradual descent through a forest that had burned. Loopster started coming to deadfall. Fortunately, not enough to cause much of a problem. Hardly any shade, but on the other paw, the fire had opened up the views to some extent. So many dead trees were still standing, though, that the American Dingo seldom enjoyed a clear one.
The trail soon curved sharply NW, descending into a valley where it then turned NE. Lupe had lost more than 400 feet of elevation by the time she reached a junction where an old sign was propped up against a tree. This was the end of Jim Mountain cut-across Trail No. 762.1A.
Well, Loop, seems we’ve got a choice of Trout Creek Trail No. 763 to the L, or Four Bear Trail No. 763.1B to the R.
Oh, that’s an easy one, SPHP! Trout Creek must be close to Trout Peak, so we better go that way.
Going L, as the Carolina Dog had correctly surmised, it was only 200 feet to a tiny stream. A stand of live trees here provided some shade. After a drink, Lupe curled up beneath a couple of small, leafy bushes.
This must be Gunnysack Creek, Loop. Not exactly a raging torrent is it? We’re pretty close to the source.
Enough to get a drink, and a raging torrent would only be a problem, SPHP.
Yeah, we’ll be coming to quite a few streams, so let’s hope none of them are torrents, unless there happens to be a decent bridge.
I wouldn’t count on that, SPHP.
Trail No. 763 continued N, but not straight N. As the map indicated, Lupe came to a series of streams separated by big ridges. A zig-zag pattern kept repeating itself on the way to each stream. First, the trail would climb NE up onto the next ridge, which might involve anywhere from a 100 to 300 foot elevation gain. The trail would then flatten out, heading N across the ridge before angling NW descending into the next valley where Lupe would ultimately reach the next stream.
Most of this region had once been heavily forested. However, nearly the entire forest had burned. Trail No. 763 did pass through scattered stands of live trees, always nice due to the shade provided, but these stretches were never very long. Up on the ridges, Lupe often journeyed through meadows where sweeping views were available toward the E.
From the very first ridge past Gunnysack Creek, an indication of trouble was ahead. The morning’s clear blue skies were long gone. Cumulus clouds were building, and the sky was starting to look dark to the N.
The first stream N of Gunnysack Creek was a S tributary of Laughing Water Creek, which came next. Although larger than Gunnysack Creek, both were easily stepped over or rock-hopped.
Burnt Creek came after Laughing Water Creek, and was also an easy rock hop. Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) finally came into view, which allowed SPHP to positively identify Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) as well.
Continuing N, occasional glimpses of Trout Peak gradually improved. Meanwhile, the weather was looking more iffy. Thunder sometimes rumbled in the distance.
Your decision to leave the rain jacket back at the RAV4 isn’t looking so great now, Einstein.
Yeah, wish I had that one back, Loop, but there hadn’t been a drop of rain in the forecast. Supposed to be sunny and hot for 4 days!
And it was, for 4 hours!
Stockade Creek was too big to rock-hop. Still an easy ford, but caused some delay as SPHP went through the routine of removing boots and socks to wade it barepaw. The cold water did feel good, although SPHP wasn’t looking forward to experiencing it dropping out of the sky.
A little past Stockade Creek, Lupe came to an old wooden bridge over a marshy spot. The sky now looked quite dark ahead.
Nothing happened, though. The sky brightened again crossing the next ridge. A temporary respite, perhaps. On the way to Singing Brook, Lupe came to a flat field of yellow and purple wildflowers. This appeared to be a great place to camp, but Trout Peak was still a long way off. Lupe needed to get farther before calling it a day.
Thus far, the trails had been easy to follow, but No. 763 vanished as Lupe crossed the field. Continuing the same way, SPHP was surprised when there was no sign of the trail at the edge of a 10 foot deep ravine full of deadfall and bushes. Searching W (L), the trail was soon rediscovered at a better spot to cross the ravine.
It wasn’t much farther to Singing Brook, which also proved to be too big to rock-hop, but another easy ford. Once across, it also proved to be the only creek Lupe had come to with any signage.
Beyond Singing Brook, Trail No. 763 went around the E end of the next ridge, then turned N entering the Trout Creek valley. Glimpses of Trout Creek were to the E, and from the white water and roar it was making, Trout Creek was clearly a far more serious proposition than any of the other streams Lupe had come to today.
Oh, my gosh, Loopster! Let’s hope there’s a bridge!
No such luck.
Aye yi yi, Looper! How are we going to get across this?
Trout Creek wasn’t huge, but it was absolutely full bank to bank of swift water plunging down a series of rapids. Trail No. 763 led straight into it at a sharp bend between a cascade immediately upstream, and a logjam immediately below. Sticking a trekking pole into the turgid stream a mere foot from the near bank, the water was easily mid-thigh on SPHP, and way over Lupe’s head.
Clearly any attempt to cross here would doom the Carolina Dog to being instantly swept downstream. A moment later, Lupe would be pinned underwater against the logjam by the full force of the merciless torrent, a certain death sentence from which no rescue would be possible.
What did the trip reports you read say, SPHP?
None of them made any mention of this, Loop. Maybe the flow was a lot less then?
We didn’t come all this way just to turn around, SPHP! There must be somewhere we can cross. Which way does the trail go on the other side?
NNW up the valley, Looper.
Let’s go upstream then, SPHP. There’s lots of deadfall, maybe we can find a big log that will get us across?
Seemed like the only possible solution. Traversing wet ground that had apparently been beneath the flood until very recently, Lupe worked her way around the near side of the cascade, clambering over a jumble of deadfall in the process.
Continuing upstream, the search began for a suitable deadfall bridge. Trout Creek was straighter and less threatening up this way, and quite a few logs had fallen over the creek, which was all encouraging.
Several hundred feet upstream, a big log appeared that looked like it might do.
A fall wouldn’t be any fun, but Trout Creek didn’t appear to be the death trap here that it was down where the trail crossed it.
From what we’ve seen, this is probably about as good as it’s going to get, Loop. Stay here, I’ll go first.
Taking baby steps, SPHP started across. The log seemed sturdy enough, if not as wide as SPHP would have liked. Halfway across, confidence and the urge to get to that opposite bank grew. A few quick, big steps, and the ordeal was over and done with.
Your turn, Loop!
Without the slightest hesitation, the Carolina Dog leapt up onto the log, and raced over Trout Creek like it was nothing.
Show off!
4 on the floor for added stability and confidence, SPHP!
Being safely past Trout Creek was cause for immediate joy and relief! Bounding up a short steep bank, Lupe then crossed a flat area chock full of more deadfall before reaching Trail No. 763 again. Back in business! Turning NNW, a gradual climb soon led to a big gap in the ridge to the E. The trail turned NE here, going right through the gap, leaving Trout Creek behind.
Once through the gap, the trail turned NW. Lupe had reached the Agee Creek valley, and soon came to a pleasant little stream. Happily, Agee Creek presented none of the dangers of Trout Creek.
Continuing NW, Agee Creek was easily heard nearby, but hidden in a ditch full of trees and bushes. The sky was looking more threatening again when Lupe came to a small clearing sporting a stone fire ring. A sign for another trail junction was in sight only 250 feet ahead.
7-7-22, 5:15 PM, Agee Creek – Hours of daylight left, but SPHP was weary. Loop had accumulated roughly 3,000 feet of total elevation gain over the course of 9.5 miles since leaving the trailhead this morning.
How are you feeling, Looper? We haven’t made it as far as I’d hoped, but at least we’ve made it to our minimum goal for the day. Looks like rain. Want to stop here?
You mean for the night, SPHP? I’m happy with that. Better than getting drenched!
SPHP had no sooner dropped the pack than big raindrops started to fall. Retreating to the shelter of a large pine, the shower lasted only 5 or 10 minutes. SPHP managed to get Lupe’s tiny house set up and the rain cover on before it started raining again.
Didn’t matter, Loopster had made it into the tiny house just in time. A hearty dinner with beef jerky for dessert! Then warm and dry, snuggly wrapped in her red sleeping bag, it was off to Dingo Dreamland while the rain came down.
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