Hazelton Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (6-27-19)

Day 2 of Lupe’s 1st 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming!

6:12 AM, 57ºF, dense fog at the I-90 Powder River rest stop – That darn black pickup truck was still idling!  Had been all night, with not a soul in it, no less.  Who does that anyway?  May as well put a “Please Steal My Truck” sign on it!  A thief wouldn’t even have had to turn the key.  Yet here it was, still running with no owner in sight.  No one had touched it.  Gotta love Wyoming!

Ready to roll, Lupe hopped back into the G6.  Hopefully this fog would clear up by the time she got to the Bighorns.

It did – almost immediately.  Turned out it wasn’t anything more than just a ground fog stuck down in the Powder River valley.  Cheery blue skies appeared as the G6 climbed out of the valley.  Approaching Buffalo half an hour later, Looper stopped for a quick look at the Bighorn Range illuminated by the morning sun.  Snow was visible on all the higher peaks.

Near I-90 approaching Buffalo, Wyoming and the mighty Bighorn Mountains. Photo looks W.
Buffalo, Wyoming history.

W of Buffalo on Hwy 16, SPHP initially missed the L turn onto USFS Road No. 32 (Hazelton Road) a mile before the Lost Cabin campground (about 9 miles E of Powder River Pass).  This error was quickly corrected.  The American Dingo was soon bounding out of the G6 at a huge meadow along Hazelton Road several miles S of Hwy 16.

Snow-clad Loaf Mountain (11,722 ft.) far to the NW looked enticing, but Hazelton Peak (10,264 ft.) was her objective today.  Little, if any, snow was visible up there.  Hazelton Pyramid (10,534 ft.), which Lupe had climbed back in 2016, was also in sight to the SW.

Loaf Mountain (Center) from the huge meadow off Hazelton Road. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Hazelton Peak (L) and Hazelton Pyramid (R). Photo looks SW.

Continuing SW on Hazelton Road, concern grew.  Most of Hazelton Peak looked perfectly climbable, but could Lupe really get to the summit?  The mountain’s main ridge featured some mighty steep rocky knobs.  It was hard to tell exactly which knob was the true summit from down here, but several of the highest points looked a bit daunting.

Getting closer to Hazelton Peak (Center). Hazelton Pyramid (R). Photo looks W.
Hazelton Peak’s summit region. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Hazelton Peak from the SE.
Zoomed in on the summit region again. Photo looks NW.

Two miles beyond Lower Doyle Creek campground (a turn not taken), SPHP turned R (W) on USFS Road No. 506.  This road wasn’t great, but still passable for the G6.  After bumping along for 1.5 miles, a junction was reached just E of some private property.  Beyond a wood railing fence an old cabin sat in a meadow next to Doyle Creek.

According to the topo map a road leading NW past the cabin was right where USFS Road No. 508 ought to be.  Lupe had been intending to go this way, but there was no sign.  Was that road public or private now?  A sign along No. 506 did indicate there was a public easement for 0.3 mile across private property S of the cabin.

SW wasn’t really the right direction, but SPHP stayed on No. 506, driving through the private property on the easement, and crossing Doyle Creek in the process.  Beyond the W boundary of the private land, the road turned S, directly away from Hazelton Peak.  Clearly no sense in driving any farther!  SPHP parked the G6.  Lupe could start for Hazelton Peak from here.  (10:16 AM, 63ºF)

Setting off N through the forest, the intention was to avoid the private property, but Lupe wound up on it.  She quickly came upon a dirt road that led past a pond with 2 docks.  A little farther on was another road.  SPHP surmised this was likely the same one that had gone NW past the old cabin.  About this time, a much newer, nicer cabin was glimpsed off to the W.  Lupe did not go near it.  Instead, she simply crossed the road and Doyle Creek again, continuing all the way N to a fence.  Once beyond the fence, she was back on USFS land.

Definitely would have been better to have started from E of the old cabin and avoided the private property by following the fence line, but that didn’t matter now.  Lupe roamed N through a gently sloping open forest, happy and completely oblivious to the private property issue she had already put behind her.

In the open forest N of the private property.

After gaining a little elevation, Lupe came to a clearing.  The rugged S end of Hazelton Peak was now visible ahead.  Having seen the ragged main ridge from Hazelton Road, climbing this end of the mountain would almost certainly be a waste of effort.

Approaching the rugged S end of Hazelton Peak. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the clearing, Lupe re-entered the forest.  The plan was to stay on easy terrain W of the mountain.  Wandering N, Lupe came to an old road in an immature forest.  She followed it a little way until it turned E.  A branch to the N soon faded away.  Losing a bit of elevation going NW down a slope, she came to a small stream.  Loop lost no time availing herself of a drink and this chance to cool off.

On the old road. Lupe followed it maybe 0.25 mile N until it faded away.
Cooling off in a tiny tributary of Doyle Creek. Photo looks N.

The map showed this stream was a tiny tributary lying well E of the main course of Doyle Creek.  It meandered down open meadows from the N.  Lupe was just where she wanted to be!  The plan was to follow this stream up a long valley to a saddle at 9,520+ ft.

The meadows near the stream were damp, sometimes boggy.  Staying E of the stream, Lupe traveled N on slightly higher ground in the forest.  She crossed a series of rivulets trickling down hillsides seeping water.  After going some distance in this manner, the meadows and damp areas ended, and the tributary of Doyle Creek seemed to have vanished.

Following animal trails, Lupe explored a mature forest of tall pines.  The forest floor was bare except for pine needles.  Although the American Dingo was now gaining elevation at an increasing rate, the forest hid all but her immediate surroundings.

In the mature forest.

The situation did not change.  Lupe gained quite a bit of elevation, and it seemed as though she had gone a long way, but she did not come to the 9,520+ ft saddle or any viewpoints.  She finally arrived at another little trickle of a stream coming down from Hazelton Peak, the first one she’d come across in quite a while.

Loop would inevitably reach the saddle, if she continued up the valley, but SPHP was getting impatient.  How much farther was it?  Had she missed it somehow?  That didn’t seem possible.  Where did this little stream originate?  Out of curiosity, SPHP led Lupe E following the trickling stream higher.  It led to a dam of white rocks.

By the last trickling stream where Lupe turned E.
The tiny stream led to a dam of white rocks. Photo looks ENE.

The dam wasn’t real.  No water was behind it, only a steep forested slope.  Maybe by now Lupe was far enough N to consider climbing up to Hazelton Peak’s main ridge?  Loopster was willing to give it a shot, so up she went.

The American Dingo climbed and climbed.  She came to fields of talus, which SPHP tried to avoid by staying in the forest whenever possible, but the forest was only a little easier.  From the rocks, Lupe started getting better and better views.

First view looking across the valley Lupe had been coming up. Photo looks WNW.
Early glimpse of a formidable high point to the NE.
On the way up a long stretch of talus.

Eventually Lupe was high enough so SPHP could recognize features shown on the topo map.  Hazelton Pyramid (10,534 ft.) off to the NNW was unmistakable.  Beyond the valley Lupe had been traveling up before starting this much steeper climb Peak 9753 was in sight.

Much closer was an impressive high point along Hazelton Peak’s main ridge.  Was that possibly the true summit?  SPHP hoped not.  It looked questionable whether Lupe could get to the top from this direction.

Hazelton Pyramid (L) and a formidable high point along Hazelton Peak’s main ridge (R). Photo looks N.
Hazelton Pyramid with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.
Peak 9753 (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the ridgeline, the boulders Lupe was climbing grew in size.  The top of the ridge proved to be a narrow jumble of massive rocks hidden among pines.  Maneuvering along this rugged terrain was slow, tricky work.  Lupe had plenty of time to gaze about from various lofty perches while SPHP inched along.

High point to the N again.
Loop still a little below the top of the ridge. Peak 9753 on the R. Photo looks W.
Looking S. Fortunately Lupe didn’t have to go this way!
On the rugged main ridge close to where Lupe first reached it. Photo looks S.
Heading toward the high point to the N.

The rough, narrow section of the ridge ended, broadening out as Lupe closed in on the high point to the N.  She reached open ground where SPHP could make rapid progress.  The view was encouraging!  Circling around the E side to where an ascent from the N might be possible looked easy.

On much easier terrain just S of the high point.

However, climbing this high point proved unnecessary.  SE of it, Lupe came to a minor saddle along the ridgeline.  On the other side, a huge forest-forest filled amphitheater stretched off to the NE, the upper edge rimmed by a series of rocky prominences clearly higher than the one she was close to now.

The forest-filled amphitheater. Photo looks NE.

Wow!  We’re nowhere close to the top of Hazelton Peak yet, SPHP!  It’s gotta be somewhere way over there!

Yeah, I see that.  Been a while since I’ve checked the map, maybe it’s time I did?  Let’s take a break here.  Maybe we can figure out where we’re at.

Lupe was happy to lap up some water, then lay panting in the shade.

Alrighty, Loopster, I think I’ve got it.

So where are we?

Oh, you lucky Dingo!  Good thing I didn’t get impatient down in the valley any sooner than I did!  We barely went far enough N before turning E up to the ridgeline, or we might have had quite a time of it, maybe even been forced to retreat.  Appears we are just SE of HP 9886 right now.

Is that good?  Can you tell which of those high points to the NE is actually the true summit?

Probably none of them Loop.  If I’m right, the summit is still more than 1.5 miles away.  Should be past anything we can see from here.  Won’t truly know if the news is good or bad until we can actually see the summit.

We better get going then!

Staying close to the NW side of the amphitheater, Loopster headed NE.  She remained on open ground as long as possible, but wound up cutting through the forest to save time, losing a bit of elevation in the process.  Less than halfway around the amphitheater, she reemerged from the forest.  Directly ahead, mostly open ground led to another pass between rocky high points.  Lupe headed for it.

Only a fraction of the way around the amphitheater, Lupe reemerges from the forest. Photo looks NNE.
Approaching the second pass.
Cooling off on a snowbank hidden in a stand of pines.

Upon reaching this second pass, it turned out not to be a pass at all.  Beyond it the ground continued to rise, but more gradually.  Another even higher line of rocky knobs was ahead.

Looking back from the second “pass”. HP 9886 is at Center. Lupe had come here from the saddle just to the L of it. Photo looks SW.
Looking ahead from the 2nd “pass”. From here Loop headed for a 3rd pass between the rocky points seen straight up from her head. Photo looks NE.
Loop almost to the 3rd pass.
Rock formations near the 3rd pass. Photo looks NE.

The 3rd pass wasn’t much of a pass, either.  Dramatic rock formations marked a boundary with more level territory to the N.  Yet another rocky knob was off in that direction.  Maybe that was the true summit of Hazelton Peak?  It wasn’t the only high point around, though, and it was still hard to tell for sure.

By the dramatic rock formations of the 3rd pass. The high point on the L might even be the true summit! Photo looks NNE.

The views from the rock formations at the 3rd pass were terrific!  Lupe spent some time scrambling around while enjoying the sights.  Stretched out along a line to the NW she could see Hazelton Pyramid (10,534 ft.), Peak 10372, and Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.).  Much farther to the NNW, massive, snowy Bighorn Peak (12,324 ft.) was in view.

Looper in the 3rd pass. Photo looks SW.
Hazelton Pyramid (L), Peak 10372 (Center), and Hesse Mountain (R). Bighorn Peak is the snowy distant mountain on the R. Photo looks NNW.
Exploring the 3rd pass region. Hazelton Pyramid on the R. Photo looks NW.
Hazelton Pyramid with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.
Bighorn Peak (Center) with lots of help from the telephoto lens. The summit of Hesse Mountain (R) is in the foreground. Photo looks NNW.

Continuing N, the high point that had been visible from the 3rd pass looked more and more like it actually was the true summit.  It was rocky and steep, but not an awful lot higher than the surrounding ground.  With just a little luck, Lupe ought to be able to get to the top!

Approaching the true summit of Hazelton Peak. Photo looks N.

A quick scramble with only one tricky spot, and the American Dingo stood perched on the highest rock.  This was definitely it – Lupe had reached the true summit of Hazelton Peak (10,264 ft.).  Getting here hadn’t been bad at all!

At the true summit of Hazelton Peak. Photo looks NE.

The summit region was small, but roomier than expected.  Several rocks along a short ridge were all nearly the same elevation.  A bit lower to the SW, a grassy spot tucked among big rocks provided a little shelter and shade where Lupe could rest.

Looking SSW from the summit. Lupe’s grassy rest area is on the R.
Woo-hoo, SPHP! We made it! And you thought I couldn’t do it! Loopster up on the short summit ridge. Photo looks NE from the grassy spot.

After a quick look around, Lupe was ready for a break.  Taste of the Wild, water, and a bit of a snooze sounded good to her.  After furnishing the needed supplies, SPHP gazed at the splendid scenery while Looper relaxed.

Taking it easy at the grassy spot. Peak 9753 on the R. Photo looks SW.
Shhhh! Dingo nap in progress. Hazelton Pyramid on the R. Photo looks WNW.
Hazelton Pyramid (L) and Peak 10372 (R). Photo looks NW.
Bighorn Peak (12,324 ft.) (L of Center) and Loaf Mountain (11,722 ft.) (R) with Hesse Mountain in the foreground. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Hazelton Road (USFS Road No. 32) from Hazelton Peak. Photo looks SE.
View to the W. Peak 9753 (Center) and Hazelton Pyramid (R).

Such a beautiful day!  Conditions were close to ideal.  65ºF with a 10 to 15 mph breeze out of the SE.  The Dingo snoozed.  SPHP gazed.  No rush at all.  A white canister at the summit contained only trash, no registry.

More than 2 hours shot by.  Lupe woke up.  Hours of daylight left, but the sun had been sinking for a while.  Sadly, it was time to get a move on.  Before departing, the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the true summit.  She then conducted her own little tour of the sights again.

Back on the true summit of Hazelton Peak. Photo looks E.
Posing on one of the big slanty rocks by the grassy area. Hazelton Pyramid (L) and Peak 10372 (R) in the background. Photo looks NW.

From the top of Hazelton Peak, a big green field could be seen down in the saddle leading to Hazelton Pyramid.  If Lupe could get down there, she ought to have an easy time returning to the valley of the tributary of Doyle Creek she had partially explored earlier.  This route wouldn’t be as scenic as retracing her path through all the minor passes, but ought to be faster and easier.

Late enough now for speed to be a consideration.  Lupe is always happy to see something new, anyway.  As the American Dingo left the summit, searching for a way down to the big green field was the new plan.

Hazelton Pyramid from Hazelton Peak. The big green field down on the L was Lupe’s next destination. Photo looks NW.
Starting the descent. The 3rd pass Lupe had come over on the way up is just to the R of the biggest rock knob on the R. Photo looks S.
Loopster below the true summit of Hazelton Peak. Photo looks N.

Once down off the summit, Lupe didn’t have to go back over any of the minor passes.  Instead, she turned WNW.  The ground sloped away only gradually at first, but became progressively steeper as she continued.  Open ground higher up gave way to forests, rocks, and snow banks on the way down.  However, the terrain never became too challenging.

On a snowbank during the descent. Photo looks NNW.

The plan worked!  After losing 1,000 feet of elevation, Lupe emerged from the forest in the big green field.

Success! Lupe reaches the big green field. Photo looks NW.

It was still a long way back, but the rest was easy.  The big green field was a saddle at 9,520+ ft., the same elevation as another saddle more than 0.5 mile SW.  That other saddle was the one Lupe would have reached on the way up, if SPHP hadn’t become impatient.

Traveling SW through the forest, being careful not to stray too far from the W slopes of Hazelton Peak, Lupe eventually did reach the 9,520+ ft. saddle she had been trying for earlier in the day.  She crossed a meadow there, then descended into the valley of the tributary of Doyle Creek.

Back in the forest again, light was already beginning to fade even though the sun was still up.  Only a little sunlight filtered through the trees.  Lupe and SPHP hastened on for what seemed like a long way.  It wasn’t until the Carolina Dog came upon the “dam” of white rocks again that SPHP really knew where she was.

That confidence didn’t last.  The trackless forest was all too much the same.  Nothing looked familiar.  Lupe came to no other landmarks, at least nothing SPHP recognized.  Believing she might be too far W, SPHP eventually turned SE.  Soon after climbing over a hilly area, Loop finally reached a road.

Know where we are now, SPHP?

Yes, lucky Dingo!  Completely by accident, but we couldn’t have planned it better if we’d tried.  I thought we were too far W, but that wasn’t true.  This is USFS Road No. 506.  We’re E of the old cabin.  We’ll have to go by it on the way back to the G6.

Oh, so we managed to avoid the private property then!

True dat.  We’ll still have to take the public road easement back through it, but that’s not an issue.

All’s well that ends well, SPHP!

Also true, and the evening did end well with a peaceful mile long trek back along the road.  Hazelton Peak (10,264 ft.) had been a great day!  (8:55 PM)

Approaching the public easement along USFS Road No. 506 across the private property.
Sunset at the old cabin on Doyle Creek.

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Hazelton Pyramid, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 7-18-16

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North Pumpkin Butte, the Campbell County, Wyoming High Point (6-26-19)

Day 1 of Lupe’s 1st 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming!

June!  Green grass, blue skies, white clouds, warm soft breezes, and long, long days.  Yet Lupe was bored.  Summer was here, but nothing had changed.  No Black Hills expeditions, no Dingo Vacations, lots of short trips out to Grandma’s house where strange things were happening, but otherwise no adventures at all.  SPHP had always maintained that summer started June 1st, but even the summer solstice came and went as if it meant nothing at all!

Was Lupe’s life of adventure over?  No more mountains?  A future spent staring endlessly out the living room window while precious days made for glory slipped away forever?  So it seemed.  Day after disappointing day, the hope in the Carolina Dog’s eyes for something better could be seen ebbing away.  Despite SPHP’s assurances, Lupe was losing faith.

June was already near its end when at last there was a change.  Hours before dawn on the 26th, SPHP was up and about.  Preparations!  Gear and supplies were getting carted out to the G6.  The American Dingo danced underfoot, full of excitement.  She knew the signs!

So, where are we going SPHP?

Not too far, Looper.  The Bighorn Mountains in N central Wyoming.

Oh, I love the Bighorns!

Yeah, should be a fun time.  We won’t get all the way there today, though.

Why not?  Aren’t we leaving soon?  It only takes a few hours to get to the Bighorns from here.

Yup, we’re leaving as soon as I can get us ready.  However, yesterday I talked to John Christensen who owns the ranch that North Pumpkin Butte (6052 ft.) is on.  The N butte is the highest of the Pumpkin Buttes and the high point of Campbell County, Wyoming.  Mr. Christensen kindly granted a certain lucky dingo permission to climb it today!  Should be a fairly easy climb, yet quite a vantage point with a grand view W toward the Bighorn Range if the sky is clear.

Oh, I can hardly wait!

Loopster did have to wait, but not for much longer.  By 7:30 AM she was comfortably perched atop pillows and blankets riding high in her usual spot in the G6.  Her first Dingo Vacation of 2019 was underway!

By lunch time, a happy Carolina Dog was at Savageton, Wyoming. (MP 35.4 of Hwy 50 S of Gillette)  Here, SPHP turned W onto a wide gravel road known as the Black & Yellow Road.  Going up a little rise, Cheryl’s Place was on the L, and a sign for the Christensen Ranch appeared on the R.  From the top of the rise, North Pumpkin Butte was in view, still quite a few miles off to the SW.

Lupe along Hwy 50 at Savageton, Wyoming. The metal building on the R is Cheryl’s Place along the Black & Yellow Road. Some of the Middle Pumpkin Buttes are visible on the L. Photo looks SSW.
On the wide, smooth Black & Yellow Road near Savageton. Photo looks WNW.
North Pumpkin Butte from the Black & Yellow Road near Savageton. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

2 miles from Hwy 50 there was a junction.  Christensen Road went L (S) toward territory E of North Pumpkin Butte.  It seemed counter-intuitive to stick with the Black & Yellow Road, but a 5-18-09 trip report by Edward Earl, and a 7-18-18 GPS track by Daniel Mick both indicated successful ascents from the W or NW, not the E.

The Black & Yellow Road soon turned NW away from North Pumpkin Butte.  What Lupe was seeing did not match up with Edward Earl’s trip report.  SPHP concluded that was because the Black & Yellow Road must have 2 highway access points.  Coming up Hwy 50 from the S, Lupe had reached the S access point at Savageton first.  However, Edward Earl had come down Hwy 50 from the N, and must have started on the Black & Yellow Road from an access point considerably closer to Gillette.

At any rate, 6 miles from Hwy 50, Lupe came to a “T” intersection.  This was apparently where the N and S routes met.  After a brief look around, SPHP turned L (SW) at the “T”.

6 miles from Savageton close to the “T” intersection. Lupe took the road seen in the background toward North Pumpkin Butte from here. Photo looks SSW.

In addition to being cattle country, this whole region was an oilfield as well.  A confusing number of intersections with oilfield service roads not mentioned in Edward Earl’s trip report (perhaps they hadn’t existed in 2009?) appeared along the way.  Signage wasn’t matching up very well, either, but Lupe did come to what seemed to be some of the places Edward had talked about.

Fortunately, the treeless expanse of open range continually provided a clear view of North Pumpkin Butte.  At the intersections, SPHP merely took the best looking road heading either directly toward or to the W (R) of the butte.  4 miles after the turn SW at the “T” intersection, the Christensen Ranch HQ appeared on the R at the end of a short road.

The Christensen Ranch HQ, about 10 miles from Hwy 50 at Savageton. Photo looks NNW.

While Lupe and SPHP were stopped briefly out in front of the drive to the ranch HQ, a pickup truck appeared from one of the side roads.  Bob Christensen and some of his family and/or ranch hands were in it.  Bob was John’s cousin, and readily accepted SPHP’s explanation that Lupe was here to climb North Pumpkin Butte with John’s permission.

Despite the maze of roads to choose from, Bob said it was easy to get to where Lupe needed to start from.  She was already on the right track.  Just keep heading S or SW toward the W side of North Pumpkin Butte.  Can’t miss it!

Sounded good!  Lupe and SPHP stopped for photos at several points along the way.

Getting close to the N end of North Pumpkin Butte. Photo looks S.
A little farther along looking SSE now.

Six miles from the ranch HQ there was a junction with a good gravel road that headed somewhere off to the W.  A sign pointed the way back to Savageton, or straight on S to Casper.  Continuing 200 yards S beyond this junction led to another one with a road that headed E toward North Pumpkin Butte.  Looked like this might well be the 19.1 mile point from Hwy 50 on the route Edward Earl had taken to get here, although Lupe had come only 16 miles from Savageton.

North Pumpkin Butte from next to a 3-way junction 6 miles SW of the Christensen ranch HQ. Photo looks ESE.
The turn toward North Pumpkin Butte 200 yards S of the previous photo. Probably the 19.1 mile point along the route Edward Earl had taken.

The road E wound around for 0.75 mile, then turned S descending into a drainage which must have been the North Prong of Willow Creek.  A line of small orange rock cliffs was on the R (W).  At the bottom, a mud hole covered a curve in the road.  Mile 20.0 in Edward Earl’s description?  SPHP thought so.  The day was sunny and dry, but the road wasn’t.  As Edward had predicted, the G6 was done.  Paw and foot from here on!

The G6 got left here in the North Prong of Willow Creek drainage. Photo looks NW.
The mud puddle that meant the end of the road for the G6. Photo looks E.

Setting out from the mud hole (1:00 PM, 76ºF), Lupe followed the road as it curved NE on its way out of the valley.  After gaining a little elevation, the road curved again.  Going SE now, the Carolina Dog soon came to a smallish metal building posted with radiation warnings, apparently in connection with a former uranium mine that was a bit farther S.

At the metal building marked with radiation warnings. Photo looks E.

Beyond the metal building, it quickly became apparent that the main road Looper was on was going to head S avoiding North Pumpkin Butte altogether.  A primitive 2 track road angling off to the SE was more promising, so the American Dingo tried it.

A little S of the metal building, Lupe leaves the main road to follow this 2 track road. Photo looks SE.

The 2 track went a short distance to a slight rise from which another primitive road could be seen farther E across a grassy field.  That was the road Lupe needed to be on!  Close to where she would reach it if she crossed the field, it turned E heading for North Pumpkin Butte.

Fearing the possibility of cactus, or worse yet, rattlesnakes, SPHP wasn’t crazy about the idea of having Lupe leave the road to wander through the field, but no alternative was in sight.  Fortunately, crossing the field went without incident.  Lupe was soon safely on the other road starting her ascent of North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.).

Wildflower seen while crossing the field.
Lupe’s ascent of North Pumpkin Butte begins in earnest shortly after reaching a 2nd 2 track road. Photo looks NE.

Loop trotted higher along the 2nd 2 track road.  It climbed steadily at an easy pace winding mostly E or SE toward North Pumpkin Butte along the S slope of a ridge overlooking a large ravine.  The day had been pleasant enough earlier on, but as the afternoon sun blazed high overhead in a nearly cloudless sky, the temperature soared.  A mighty warm day to be wearing a fur coat!

Cedars or juniper bushes grew in the big ravine, but for a long way there was no shade at all close to the road.  Feeling hot, Lupe plodded along more slowly.  Meanwhile, SPHP kept an eye on the line of cliffs along the upper rim of North Pumpkin Butte.  Edward Earl had mentioned a light sandy gully toward the N providing a break in the cliffs that was a quicker way to the top of the plateau than a long trek S high along the W face that others had taken before him.

A distinct notch in the cliff line was indeed visible toward the N where the cliffs appeared to be tallest.  Maybe that was Edward Earl’s light sandy gully?  Worth a shot!  When Lupe got higher, she could go check that notch out first.  The American Dingo wasn’t interested in that yet, though.  When she finally came to a bush close to the road, she was ready for water and a rest in the shade.

Still a long way off, a notch is visible along the upper rim of North Pumpkin Butte just to the R of the highest cliffs toward the L. Photo looks E.
At last! Water and a shady spot to hide out for a few minutes.
Looking back down the 2 track road from the shady rest spot. Photo looks NW.

After a short break, Lupe continued higher.  She stuck with the road, which gradually deteriorated.  A few hundred feet below the W rim of North Pumpkin Butte the road divided at a grassy curve.  The American Dingo followed the branch going NE fairly steeply uphill almost directly toward the notch in the line of cliffs.

The notch is a bit difficult to see from this angle, but is near the Center along the rim of the butte. Photo looks NE.
More wildflowers.

The road veered N and faded away before Lupe made it to the notch.  No matter, it wasn’t much farther!  The American Dingo roamed here and there while SPHP searched for the easiest route up the remaining short stretch to the notch.

On a big rock close to where the road faded away. Photo looks NW.
Taking advantage of a bit of shade.
Exploring below the cliffs of the W rim. Photo looks E.
A healthy-looking thistle.

The interior of the notch was not visible during Lupe’s approach from the SW.  Drawing near, she came across a single track trail leading right to it.  Soon Lupe was standing on loose sand at the base of a beautiful horizontally-striped sandstone cliff.  Straight ahead was a vertical wall of pock-marked rock.

The notch had to be right around the corner between these two cliffs.  It still wasn’t possible to see yet if the notch was actually Edward Earl’s light, sandy gully, some other route to the top of North Pumpkin Butte, or a dead end.  However, Lupe was about to find out!

A faint trail (seen extending up toward the L from Lupe’s head) led up to where the notch is hidden between two cliffs. Photo looks NE.
On the sand at the base of the beautiful sandstone cliff. The still unseen notch is straight ahead and just around a corner to the R. Photo looks NNE.

Yup!  No doubt about it.  This was it!  Upon turning the corner, a wide slot of sloping terrain between the two cliffs led right on up to the top of North Pumpkin Butte.  An easy trek higher, and Lupe was there!

Looking up the notch – an easy ramp to North Pumpkin Butte’s summit plateau. Photo looks ESE.
Up on the W rim of the summit plateau overlooking the notch. Photo looks SSW.

The topo map portrayed North Pumpkin Butte’s summit plateau as a vast almost level region shaped rather like a fish swimming S with a fat belly bulging toward the W.  This fish is nearly 1.75 miles long N/S, and part of its midsection is more than 0.5 mile wide E/W.

3 high points varying only slightly in elevation were marked on the map.  At the extreme N end of the fish tail was a North Butte survey benchmark at 6,039 ft.  Two slightly higher points existed somewhat S of the center of the fish, one not too far from the W edge at 6,049 ft., and another close to the E edge at 6,052 ft.  Edward Earl had mentioned that in the opinion of John Mitchler, the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte was actually the high point marked as 6,049 ft.

The notch Lupe had come up was on the W side of the butte between the N and W high points, probably somewhat closer to the W one.  The plan was to visit all 3 high points shown on the map, which would insure not only that Loop actually did visit the true summit somewhere along the way, but give her a chance to explore much of the summit region, too.

The American Dingo started out by visiting the rocky W edge of the plateau immediately N of the notch.  After enjoying the grand views, she roamed NE a little way before SPHP decided it was time to take another break.  Clouds were now building to the W toward the Bighorns, but it was still sunny and warm up on North Pumpkin Butte, although perhaps not quite as hot as it had been earlier on during the long road trek.  A light breeze helped.  Even so, some shade would have been nice.  Tough luck on that.  There wasn’t any.

Slightly N of the notch looking N along the W edge.
Exploring the nearly flat summit 0.5 mile from the N end. Photo looks NE.
Taking a break near a NW facing edge. Clouds were now building to the W hiding much of the Bighorn Range. Photo looks W.
Looking NNE along the W edge, still 0.5 mile from the N end.

During the rest break, the clouds seen building to the W caused a change of plan.  While the N end of the summit plateau would be fun to visit, it was still a good 0.5 mile away.  Maybe it was best to make certain Lupe got to tag the true summit by visiting the 2 higher points to the S first?  No telling what those clouds might do on a hot summer afternoon!

Lupe was flexible.  She was perfectly happy to head S.  The Carolina Dog was soon passing by the notch she had come up again.

Looking down the notch. Photo looks WNW.

S of the notch, Lupe continued along the W rim enjoying tremendous sweeping views.  She eventually abandoned the edge to head SE directly toward a tower and metal sheds at HP 6049.  This was actually the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte in John Mitchler’s opinion.

S of the notch along the W edge. Photo looks SSW.
Looking W.
On the way to the tower at HP 6049. Photo looks SE.

True summit or not, HP 6049 wasn’t too exciting.  The small tower and old buildings weren’t much to look at, and it wasn’t close enough to the W edge to have a view.  Looking ENE across the summit plateau toward HP 6052, the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.) according to the map, not much was to be seen over there, either.  A flat grassy plain extended toward no obvious high spot near the E edge.

By the motley collection of old towers and buildings at HP 6,049. Photo looks SSE.

There seemed to be no reason to linger at HP 6049.  Since the weather was holding up, exploring farther S close to the edge where the views were best sounded like more fun than heading straight over to HP 6052.  However, it didn’t turn out that way for Lupe.  Proceeding S from HP 6049, she started to encounter cactus.  No fun at all!

Looper was soon refusing to go any farther unless SPHP first scouted out a cacti free path.  She would then reluctantly come to SPHP, where she would wait again until another stretch was certified cacti-free.

Along the SW rim waiting for the signal that this next stretch is cacti-free. The tower at HP 6049 is on the R. Photo looks NW.
Loopster on the way, demonstrating touching confidence in SPHP’s ability to spot and protect her from any and all cacti hazards.

This cactus avoidance system worked, but coaxing the Carolina Dog along in this manner slowed progress down considerably.  Nevertheless, Lupe did make it all the way to the S end of North Pumpkin Butte.  A big metal fence was along part of the S rim.  More interesting was the view SE toward the Middle Pumpkin Buttes.

Getting close to the S end of North Pumpkin Butte. The Middle Pumpkin Buttes are now in sight. Photo looks SE.
Middle Pumpkin Buttes from the S end of North Pumpkin Butte. Photo looks SE.

From the S end of North Pumpkin Butte, Lupe continued her counter-clockwise tour of the summit plateau.  She left the edge to visit another tower not too far from the S end, ultimately reaching the E edge farther N.  From here she could see a long stretch of the E rim.

Approaching a second small tower perhaps 0.2 mile N of the S end of the butte. Photo looks N.
A spectacular view of the E rim of North Pumpkin Butte. Photo looks NNW.

Looper had reached the E rim of North Pumpkin Butte somewhat S of where the map showed HP 6052.  She continued N near the edge gaining at least some elevation.  Lupe never did come to any obvious highest spot, although she must have passed over HP 6052 somewhere along the way.  Looking across the butte, HP 6049 did look higher from here, but long ago SPHP had learned that appearances can be deceiving.

The big fish of North Pumpkin Butte was so large, and cactus had slowed things down so much, that it was becoming clear that Lupe wasn’t going to have time to complete her circumnavigation of the summit plateau.  She never was going to get to see the world from the N end of the butte.

Satisfied that Lupe had visited the true summit somewhere along the way, SPHP led her NW across the grassy plateau returning directly to the notch.  Little cactus was present in this area.  Long before reaching the notch, the American Dingo had forgotten all about cacti, and was happily roaming freely again.

Back at the notch ready to start the descent. Photo looks NW.

After going down through the notch, SPHP called John Christensen to thank him for allowing Lupe to climb North Pumpkin Butte, and let him know that she was on her way down.  Mr. Christensen chatted amiably with SPHP for a few minutes, then mentioned that there was water available in the area, if needed.  Exactly where, SPHP didn’t quite catch, but on the way down Lupe spotted a huge old tire serving as a reservoir a bit farther S than she had been on the way up.

Passing through the notch. Photo looks WNW.
At the lower end of the notch by the beautiful striped sandstone cliff. Photo looks S.
Leaving the notch behind. Photo looks NE.
S of the notch by the big tire serving as a water reservoir. Photo looks SE.

The long trudge back to the G6 along the winding road was both more pleasant and interesting than expected.  The air cooled rapidly as a line of small thunderstorms approached from the SW.  Lupe saw lots of cloud to ground lightning only a few miles away.  She got sprinkled on lightly a few times, but reached the G6 just as it finally started raining harder.  (7:35 PM)

That rain didn’t last long.  The Carolina Dog enjoyed a fabulous ride back to Hwy 50.  This time SPHP took Edward Earl’s route along the Black & Yellow Road to the N highway access point closer to Gillette.  Such a golden evening!  Lupe was excited to see many pronghorn antelope, cows, and sheep from the G6.

Approaching Gillette, a dark purple sky was ominous.  Lightning flashed continuously, a violent wind blew, and it rained hard.  However, the worst of the storm had already passed by the time Lupe reached town.  The sun was gone, and a black night had begun.  SPHP made a brief stop for supplies, then drove W on I-90.

Lupe’s long day, the first of her first Dingo Vacation of 2019 during which she’d been privileged to climb North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.), finally came to an end at the Powder River rest area.  (11:00 PM)

North Pumpkin Butte from close to the Black & Yellow Road’s N junction with Hwy 50 SW of Gillette, WY 6-26-19

Links:

Next Adventure

5-18-09 Trip Report by Edward Earl

7-18-18 GPS Track by Daniel Mick

6-12-04 Trip Report by John Mitchler

Campbell County’s Historic Ranches – The Christensen Ranch

John Christensen (307) 660-3852.  North Pumpkin Butte is entirely on private property.  Obtain owner’s permission before visiting.

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