February 11, 2016 was Lupe and SPHP’s 5th anniversary! Lupe first arrived to live with SPHP the evening of February 11, 2011 as a tiny almost 2 month old puppy. She made friends with SPHP that very first night, and a life of fun and adventures together began. When SPHP suggested a Black Hills Expedition to celebrate this 5th anniversary, Lupe was totally in favor. In fact, she was in a big rush to get going!
SPHP parked the G6 (8:27 AM, 48°F) at a little pullout along Victoria Lake Road not far from where it left Sheridan Lake Road. Lupe and SPHP started out following an abandoned road heading NW. Before too long, the road divided. Lupe turned NE going up a rather rocky route. The road was a little steep at first, but started leveling out. Lupe and SPHP left the road, and climbed N up to a high point.
Lupe had a couple of peakbagging goals for the day. The first one was Commissary Point (4,598 ft.), a little over 2 miles NNW of where the G6 was parked. SPHP hoped to get a glimpse of Commissary Point from this high point (High Point 4516 on the Peakbagger.com topo map), but no such luck. High Point 4516 was all forested. There weren’t views in any direction.
Lupe and SPHP continued N from High Point 4516, gradually losing elevation. SPHP hadn’t brought along any topo map of the area SE of Commissary Point where Lupe was, so it wasn’t real clear which way to go. As Lupe headed N, she began to get glimpses of another high hill up ahead. Lupe went toward it, but SPHP soon realized Lupe was rapidly approaching a deep intervening ravine.
It looked like maybe it was possible to get over to the high hill without losing elevation by circling around to the E of the ravine, and then turning NW. SPHP was doubtful. Lupe was in an area where the watersheds typically drain to the E. If the deep ravine ahead drained E, it would cut off any approach to the high hill from that direction. Better to try going W, even though that meant losing elevation.
Lupe lost elevation. Lots of it, as in hundreds of feet. There was an old barbed wire fence in the forest that was falling over, which presented a danger to Lupe. SPHP tried to keep her well away from it, but the fence went W, too. SPHP lifted Lupe over the vicious low-hanging barbed wire strands, to get her N of the fence. Lupe finally reached the bottom of a side ravine coming down from the S. SPHP was surprised to find a good single track trail there. A short trek to the N on it led Lupe and SPHP to another trail that went E/W.
SPHP had guessed wrong. The trail going E was going UP the big ravine that had been blocking Lupe’s way to the N. The ravine drained to the W. There had been no need for Lupe to lose all this elevation. Oh, well. Nothing to do, but regain it. Lupe and SPHP took the trail going E.
The single track trail was a surprisingly good one. It headed up the ravine gaining elevation at a moderate pace. There were some big rock walls along the N side of the ravine. It was pretty scenic down here. The only problem with the trail was that it was quite icy for long stretches. The trail showed signs of recent use. There were footprints in the snow and ice. Maybe this was the way to Commissary Point?
As the “Ice Trail” started nearing a saddle, SPHP noticed another trail branching off to the N. Since Commissary Point had to be N, and not any farther E, Lupe and SPHP took the branch trail. SPHP quickly became convinced this was the trail to Commissary Point. It remained a very good single track trail, and was going roughly in the right direction. The branch trail went N up a big side gully. After gaining a fair amount of elevation, it then switchbacked up the W side of the gully to arrive up on a relatively level bench area.
The bench area was mostly meadow, but forested around the edges. To the N, there was higher ground. SPHP expected the trail would continue N on up the slope, but instead it wound around to the S going back toward the N edge of the ravine where the Ice Trail had been. When the trail turned E and started losing elevation, SPHP concluded maybe it was just going to make a loop back down into the ravine somehow.
Lupe didn’t need to go back down to the ravine. She needed to go N! SPHP had seen some cairns along the trail shortly after it reached the bench. Maybe SPHP had missed another branch of the trail going N on to Commissary Point? Lupe and SPHP returned to where the cairns were, and even went back beyond them, but there didn’t seem to be any other branch of the trail. Odd.
Well, Lupe was going to go N on up the hill, trail or no trail. She went 100 feet N, gaining about 30 feet of elevation on the way, and suddenly found the trail again! Surprising, but very handy. Lupe and SPHP continued N on the trail. It was clear that Lupe was getting close to the top of Commissary Point. The trail angled over toward the W side of the hill. There it continued N above some big cliffs just to the W. Some places there were big views between the trees to the W or N.
Shortly after passing by some small cliffs on the E side of the trail, Lupe and SPHP left the trail to climb up to the top of the hill. The top wasn’t very far up above the small cliffs. The summit was fairly level, open and grassy. SPHP wasn’t surprised to see there was a dirt road up here. There were great views in most directions. Lupe claimed her first peakbagging success of the day. She had made it to the top of Commissary Point!
SPHP started looking around to the W and N to get oriented for Lupe’s next peakbagging goal, Tomaha Point. Funny, nothing that looked like it might be Tomaha Point was anywhere close. Buzzard’s Roost (4,695 ft.) should have been rather prominent 1.5 miles to the NNW, but it didn’t seem to be there, either. Thrall Mountain (5,091 ft.) was in sight, but looked pretty far away.
SPHP glanced off to the NE. There was some forested land over there, part of this same hill, that looked like it might be a little higher than where Lupe was. Something was wrong. Maybe Lupe wasn’t at the summit of Commissary Peak yet? Another problem – back to the S, High Point 4516 looked noticeably higher than where Lupe was. Something was definitely wrong.
Looking back to the NW, suddenly SPHP knew exactly what was wrong. That big forested hill over there, beyond a huge canyon and a barren ridge, was Commissary Point – the real Commissary Point. SPHP had led Lupe up the wrong mountain! This wasn’t Commissary Point at all!
Scratch one peakbagging success. Lupe still had a long way to go to get to Commissary Point. Well, Lupe could still get there, but the chances of getting as far as Tomaha Point today, another 2 miles NW of Commissary Point through rugged terrain, had just gone down the tubes.
Lupe and SPHP returned to the trail. To get to Commissary Point, Lupe would have to go all the way back the way she had come clear down to where she first got on the Ice Trail. Before doing all that, though, since she was already way up here, SPHP thought Lupe may as well explore this mountain. It wasn’t too much farther N to a big viewpoint jutting out to the W.
The trail took Lupe almost all the way to the viewpoint. It went N to a road that Lupe and SPHP followed the rest of the way out to the W end of the prominence. The viewpoint was level and tens of feet wide, but surrounded on 3 sides by big cliffs.
It had been breezy all day long, except down in the ravines. Up here on this prominence totally exposed to the NW wind, it was nothing short of a roaring gale. Trees swayed wildly with each gust. The strong unpredictable wind was a bit unnerving, even though Lupe and SPHP stayed far from the cliff edges.
There certainly was a tremendous view, though. Lupe and SPHP remained out on the viewpoint for several minutes trying to enjoy the impressive scene. Unfortunately, the wind was being just too much to contend with. Neither Lupe nor SPHP could really relax and appreciate the panorama.
Completely, 110% satisfied, with the amount of fresh air being shipped in from Canada, Lupe and SPHP retreated, leaving the hurricane viewpoint behind. Lupe followed the road back to the trail, and turned S. She followed the trail all the way back down to where she had first gotten on the Ice Trail.
There was only one important variation along her route back. Instead of just taking the shortcut back down the bank N of the bench to reach the trail below, Lupe and SPHP stayed on the upper trail. SPHP wanted to see just where the two trails connected. The upper trail took off to the W, and then started winding around so crazily, SPHP began to wonder if the trails really did connect.
In the end, the upper trail turned out to be the same trail as the lower one. However, it wound all around the perimeter of the whole bench area near the edges of the cliffs. It took 0.5 mile to do what could have been accomplished in 100 feet. Clearly, this trail was built to take advantage of the views, every last one of them!
When Lupe reached her original starting point on the Ice Trail, she continued on heading W. She soon came to Victoria Creek, or at least its creek bed. The creek was dry, except for puddles in some places. Just beyond the creek, Lupe reached a road. The road was icy, but Lupe and SPHP followed it NW. It soon led to a fence on the border of private property.
Lupe and SPHP turned away from the fence and climbed a ridge to the SW. Once up on the ridge, Lupe found the trail again. SPHP remembered being here before, on another expedition with Lupe a long time ago. This was part of the Pink & Black Checkered trail, wasn’t it? Maybe not, SPHP looked, but didn’t see any of the pink and black checkered markers along the way.
The trail gained elevation as it headed generally W. Lupe and SPHP followed it only until it was at the S end of the barren ridge leading to Commissary Point. There Lupe and SPHP turned N, and started following the barren ridge.
Up on the barren ridge, Lupe and SPHP were following an old dirt road that showed little sign of use. However, as Lupe started getting close to the forest at the NW end of the barren ridge, she found a freshly graded road. Much of the E end of Commissary Point has been logged recently. The ground is all chewed up, and Lupe saw big stacks of dead pine trees. It was kind of a mess.
Once Lupe had a good start going NW up Commissary Point, she went to the S rim of the mountain, reaching it at a place where there was a view toward Boulder Hill and Storm Hill. Beyond this point, the forest had not been logged near the rim. It was thick, overcrowded and dark. Lupe passed through the dense forest staying on the S shoulder of the mountain, before turning N for the final climb up to the summit.
The final climb was short and easy. Lupe reached the summit to claim her real, genuine Commissary Point peakbagging success! Nothing could be seen from the summit except the surrounding dense forest, although it was pretty clear there was some very steep ground close by to the N. Lupe and SPHP stopped for a break. Lupe had Taste of the Wild, water, and was most eager to help SPHP with a couple of chocolate-covered granola bars. SPHP had water and an apple, too.
Although the summit of Commissary Point offered no distant views, the topo map showed that there ought to be some from cliffs at the slightly lower W end of the mountain. Lupe and SPHP left the summit heading W through the forest. It was a pleasant stroll, and Lupe had fun running around exploring. It only took 5 or 10 minutes to reach the W end of the mountain.
A nearly level limestone platform was at the edge of high cliffs. There were only a few trees close to the edge, providing a little strip of open ground where there were big 180° views from the S around to the W and N. This exposed ground felt the full force of the NW wind, which was still very strong. Lupe didn’t like the wind, but she did like peering over the edge from a safe distance.
Lupe and SPHP stayed for a little while at the W end of Commissary Point. The Carolina Dog would have stayed longer, if there hadn’t been such a roaring gale out of the NW. Lupe at least saw Tomaha Point, still 2 miles off the to NW, but there was no way Lupe and SPHP were going to make it clear over there today. There were big canyons between here and there. It was time to start heading back to the G6.
Both Lupe and SPHP were rather glad to go back into the dense forest, where they were protected from the wind. Instead of returning to the summit of Commissary Point, Lupe explored the forest near the cliffs along the S rim of the mountain. There were several places where the forest gave way to open spots with views to the S along the way.
Lupe went back along the barren ridge SE of Commissary Point again. She was pretty excited when she heard a helicopter approaching from the S. It flew by a bit to the S of Lupe. She barked and leaped like a nut case, but it worked – the terrified helicopter flew away to the NNE.
Lupe returned to the single track trail at the S end of the barren ridge. She turned E, and followed the trail all the way down to where it crossed the road down in the canyon, and then Victoria Creek. Now Lupe was back on the Ice Trail. When she reached the branch of the trail that went S up the side ravine, she took it.
The branch trail climbed for a little while, and then went up and down over a series of little hills and gullies. Lupe and SPHP arrived back at the G6 at 3:20 PM (50°F). Lupe had succeeded in climbing Commissary Point, but had lost so much time doing it along SPHP’s very circuitous route, she didn’t get to climb Tomaha Point.
No Tomaha Point to finish the day? No problem. SPHP hatched another plan. There was still more than enough time left for Lupe and SPHP to drive over to the Buzzard’s Roost trailhead along Hwy 44W (Rimrock Hwy). The trail to the top of Buzzard’s Roost wasn’t very long, maybe around 0.75 mile. Lupe could see the sunset from Buzzard’s Roost! She would also get a look back at Commissary Point from there.
Lupe and SPHP spent 30 minutes in Rapid City, and then drove on out Hwy 44W to arrive at the Buzzard’s Roost trailhead on the S side of the Hwy at 4:29 PM (50°F). Lupe took the Sundown Trail up to the short Buzzard’s Roost trail that went to the high point at the end of the ridge.
(Signs said the Sundown Trail was extremely difficult. The difficulty was way overstated. The Sundown Trail was just a normal hiking trail, a bit rocky in places, that gained elevation gradually as it followed along the base of low cliffs. Easy to moderate the whole way by Lupe standards.)
The sun was already very low on the horizon when Lupe reached the summit of Buzzard’s Roost, right at the very end of the ridge. Big cliffs were close at paw on 3 sides. Lupe and SPHP were both very glad that the fierce NW wind had by now almost completely subsided. Lupe and SPHP sat together on the white limestone surveying the views, while waiting the last few minutes for sunset. Off to the SE, Lupe and SPHP saw Commissary Point and much of the territory Lupe had spent the day exploring.
As Lupe and SPHP sat there, SPHP noticed that Lupe was staring intently at the edge of the cliff just a few feet away. SPHP asked Lupe what she saw. Lupe growled, and looked ready to spring over there. No way! Don’t! SPHP hung on to Lupe, and talked to her. She kept staring, but calmed down. She must have heard something. SPHP detected nothing unusual.
Sunset arrived. The colors weren’t super spectacular, but they were pretty good – certainly worth seeing.
On the way back to the G6, Lupe took the Buzzard’s Roost/Jack’s trails. Jack’s trail should have been even easier than the Sundown Trail, but it was icy, and wet, and a sea of mud. Lupe and SPHP tried to stay on the grass near the edge of the trail whenever possible.
Lupe reached the G6 at 5:59 PM (46°F). It was almost dark out. Another long February night was here. This one would soon start like the first one SPHP spent with tiny puppy Lupe 5 years ago, snuggled together to get some sleep. Except, maybe this time Lupe would be tired enough to actually sleep. No more 10,000 licks from a lonely, scared little Carolina Dog excited to just to have a new friend, any friend, after being torn away from her mother and siblings a few hours earlier.
It was going to be a good night, but really, that one 5 years ago was better.
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