2-10-23, mid-afternoon at home – Lupe was going berserk! Despite being delayed due to a super icy hill, Cousin Laddie, Aunt Andrea, and Uncle Joe were here from Colorado! Wild with joy, the Carolina Dog greeted them all to Hotel Lupe with enormous enthusiasm. Chocolate bars were on their pillows, and SPHP was cooking tonight!
In the evening, even Grandma came over for the feast. Cousin Laddie was hoping for SPHP’s “Sheltie delight” spaghetti, but got chili instead. Once it cooled off enough, Laddie decided the chili wasn’t bad, either, stuffing himself with 2 big bowls of it. Not to be outdone, Lupe had 3.
2-11-23, 10:27 AM, 44ºF, junction of USFS Roads No. 144 & No. 144.1A – As Lupe hoped and expected, Cousin Laddie’s arrival meant adventures in the Black Hills were in store! SPHP had selected Peak5321 near Nemo as a good objective to start with.
Seemed like a perfect choice! USFS Road No. 144.1A went nearly all the way to the top with less than 300 feet of elevation gain, passing scenic Ash Point just before getting there. Another great viewpoint was a short distance beyond the summit, too, if everyone felt a bit more ambitious.
However, there was a lot more snow than SPHP anticipated at the start of USFS Road No. 144.1A. So much snow that Uncle Joe was wishing he’d brought snowshoes!
At the start of USFS Road No. 144.1A. Photo looks S.
Well, this was a N slope. SPHP promoted the notion that once the road got up to where it enjoyed a more S-facing exposure, the snow wouldn’t be nearly so deep. There might not even be any snow at all. Uncle Joe was willing to play along with that idea, at least for a little way.
After passing a barricade near the start, No. 144.1A angled SE. The snow made what should have been an easy, gradual ascent quite a workout. Cousin Laddie with his short Sheltie legs had the hardest time of it, but didn’t complain at all, bounding through chest deep snow like a trooper, trying to keep up with Uncle Joe.
By the barricade near the start. Photo looks SSE.The snowy initial climb. Photo looks SE.
After gaining 100 feet of elevation, the road curved SW and started to level out in a sunnier region. As expected, there was less snow here.
Joe and Laddie lead the way on a still mostly snowy road. Photo looks WSW.
Before long, No. 144.1A curved SE again. With the snow just as deep as it was earlier, SPHP had to concede that maybe Peak 5321 wasn’t actually such a great idea today. A new plan was hatched. If it was too snowy in the hills, maybe Joe and Laddie would be interested in a prairie hike at much lower elevations?
Joe and Lupe as far as the snow trek went, a little over 0.4 mile in. Photo looks SE.
When SPHP suggested taking Centennial Trail No. 89 N from Fort Meade, Joe was all for it. He liked the Fort Meade area, in fact, Joe and Cousin Dusty had often been with Loopster on Centennial Trail No. 89 N of the Alkali Creek trailhead, just S of Fort Meade. Joe called that section of the trail the “Ponderosa hike”, and it had always been one of their favorites in the entire Black Hills region.
With this new plan in mind, everyone headed back to the RAV4.
Returning to the RAV4 on a still too wintery USFS Road No. 144.1A. Photo looks NW.
2-11-23, 11:54 AM, 52ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Fort Meade trailhead – Oh, yeah! Much better! Cousin Laddie was going to have an easier time of it here. Some snow around, but not much, and only in a few spots.
At the Fort Meade trailhead. Photo looks NW.
After crossing Hwy 34/79 just W of Fort Meade, everyone went through a gate N of the highway, then continued N through a field of tall, dry grass toward oaks and cottonwoods over by Bear Butte Creek.
About to head through the gate after crossing Hwy 34/79. Photo looks N.Reaching the trees near Bear Butte Creek. Photo looks NE.
A surprise was waiting at Bear Butte Creek. The bridge that used to be here was gone! No sign of it! Fortunately, the creek was running low. Joe wandered W along the near bank, looking for a place to cross. He found a suitable spot 200 feet upstream.
Meanwhile, Cousin Laddie had ventured into Bear Butte Creek. Finding it deeper than he expected, Laddie tried to get out, but each time he leapt up onto a shelf of ice along the edge of the stream, a big chunk would collapse beneath him, plunging the Sheltie right back into the water.
Laddie kept trying, though, finally managing to escape. Laddie, Lupe, and SPHP all headed for the area where Uncle Joe had made it across, and had success, too.
Joe already up on the N bank, waiting for Laddie. Photo looks NW.Bear Butte Creek. Photo looks WNW.
After crossing Bear Butte Creek and finding the trail again, it headed NE across a huge field. A long ridge more than 150 feet high was just to the N. The top of Bear Butte(4,422 ft.) was visible beyond it.
Entering the field. Bear Butte (R). Photo looks NE.
The trail went NE all the way to a fence line where it turned N. Warning whistles revealed the presence of a small prairie dog town near the base of the ridge. All excited, the American Dingo dashed off to stick her nose down some prairie dog holes and enjoy some serious sniffing.
Either Shelties don’t give a fig about prairie dogs, or Laddie didn’t hear them due to his partial deafness. In any case, he displayed absolutely no interest, preferring to follow Uncle Joe up the 2 track dirt road the trail now followed up the ridge. When SPHP went that way, too, Lupe quickly abandoned her prairie dog investigations.
Beyond the prairie dog village, starting up the ridge. Photo looks NE.
After getting up the first rise, the dirt road flattened out. The top of the ridge was still somewhat higher. A second minor push required to get to the upper plateau didn’t take long. Once on top, a lone boulder was seen resting 30 feet E of the road near the S rim.
The boulder looked like a good spot to take a break. A couple of ponds were in sight a mile E, and Bear Butte was in view again, too. Sitting on the grass, SPHP let Laddie and Lupe split a chocolate coconut bar, and gave them as much Taste of the Wild as they wanted. Joe and SPHP each had a Kirkland bar that Joe provided, plus an apple.
On the big grassy bench below the top of the ridge. Photo looks NW.Relaxing near the lone boulder. Bear Butte (R). Photo looks NNE.The ponds (Center) from the boulder near the S edge of the ridge. Photo looks E.The view back toward Fort Meade and Bear Butte Creek. Photo looks S.
After the pleasant rest break, following the dirt road just a little farther N led to an intersection. Centennial Trail No. 89 turned NE (R) here in the general direction of Bear Butte, remaining on top of the broad ridge.
This flat stroll was about as easy as it gets, and views of the surrounding prairie were terrific. Conditions were fabulous for February, mid 50’s ºF, with scarcely a breeze. Joe and SPHP chatted about what a great place to camp this ridge would be on a starry night.
The western South Dakota prairie. Photo looks NNW.
Laddie and Lupe didn’t find all that much to sniff up here other than an empty water trough in a wooden fence, but still seemed to be enjoying themselves.
By the dry water trough. Bear Butte (L). Photo looks NE.
After going NE for more than a mile, the road curved E toward a gap in the ridge. Before heading down into the gap, a few moments were taken to appreciate the view of Bear Butte from up here. Bear Butte Lake was just coming into sight at the base of the mountain.
A long, long time ago, Cousin Dusty had been up here with Lupe. It was sad to think that Cousin Dusty was gone now, but, of course, nice to have Cousin Laddie’s company.
Laddie and Lupe together before descending into the gap. Photo looks NE.Bear Butte Lake at the base of Bear Butte with help from the telephoto lens.
Descending into the gap, Uncle Joe scanned the ground for artifacts as he turned N, venturing farther down into the prairie.
Below the ridge after going through the gap. Photo looks NW.Joe and Laddie head farther out into the prairie. Photo looks NW.
Bear Butte’s summit is the N end of 111 mile long Centennial Trail No. 89, but Laddie and Lupe weren’t going that far today. Now 2.5 miles from the Fort Meade trailhead, Uncle Joe was ready to turn back.
About ready to head back up onto the ridge. Photo looks S.Cousin Laddie at trail’s end for the day.Bear Butte from the turnaround point. Photo looks NE.
The return was beautiful, half of it way up on the ridge with the big prairie views, this time heading toward the Black Hills.
Joe and Laddie returning to the ridge. Photo looks SSE.Heading for the Black Hills. Photo looks SW.
2-11-23, 3:00 PM, Fort Meade trailhead – Nearly the entire return route was identical, except near the very end. By going farther W through the huge field and a picnic ground, a lovely bridge over Bear Butte Creek had been discovered along a bike path. Happily, Laddie hadn’t had to brave the icy waters a second time.
Later on in the evening, Cousin Laddie had another reason to celebrate. Joe and Andrea brought Grandma over to Hotel Lupe again, and SPHP didn’t disappoint. Tonight’s chef’s special was “Sheltie delight” spaghetti, a Laddie favorite even American Dingoes were partial to.
Cousin Laddie on Centennial Trail No. 89 between Fort Meade & Bear Butte 2-11-23
Oh, yes we are, Loopster! Centennial Trail No. 89 S from Badger Hole! But don’t worry, not going to let it become a fiasco like last time.
Badger Hole near Legion Lake is locally famous as the former home of Charles Badger Clark (1883 – 1957), Poet Laureate, author, and one of early South Dakota’s best known citizens.
Yes, but that’s not what I remember Badger Hole for, SPHP!
No! Indeed not! For Lupe, Badger Hole was infamous as her starting point nearly 10 years ago way back on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, when she’d taken Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way to the Highland Creek trailhead near Wind Cave National Park and back, a distance of 29 miles round trip. A decent day hike by most any standards, and that was if one didn’t get lost like SPHP had, tacking on who knows how much more mileage stumbling around off-trail for hours in the dark.
No. 20 had been an expedition of many wonderful adventures, but had turned into a grueling, 19+ hour ordeal that hadn’t ended until dawn the next day. By then, young Lupe had been injured, somehow slicing one of the pads on a paw wide open during the night.
So, today, a more modest goal.
We’ll just go as far as the French Creek Horse Camp, this time, Looper. Only 4.2 miles one way.
That sounds much better, SPHP.
Might tack on a jaunt to Peak5120, too, if we’re still feeling up to it once we reach French Creek.
Knew there’d be a catch! I’m CinderDingo, though! We better be back to Badger Hole before midnight!
A much earlier return that that was the plan as the American Dingo set out on Centennial Trail No. 89, heading S from Badger Hole.
Leaving Badger Hole.
A little up and down, and the trail turned SW up a shallow valley. This was actually just a spur leading from the Badger Creek trailhead to the main Centennial Trail No. 89 N/S route. Upon reaching the main trail, Lupe turned L, which was the way to French Creek.
Following the Badger Hole spur up the shallow valley. Photo looks SW.At the main trail, French Creek bound!
Climbing more steeply now, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued SW up the same valley. Lupe soon reached the more open upper end. Curving S, the trail left the valley, bringing her up to Pass 5180.
Entering the upper valley. Photo looks SW.At Pass 5180, 0.67 mile SW of Badger Hole. Photo looks S.
Beyond the pass, the trail dipped only slightly at first. There was a nice view of a big wall of granite and a mountain off to the NE.
Peak 5440 (R). Photo looks NE.
That’s a sweet mountain! We ought to climb it someday, SPHP!
Think we will before too long, Looper. That’s Peak5440 , a Lists of John peak with 400 feet of prominence!
No, not really, since you’ve already completed your achievement. At least, not on a mini-blitz basis. But we’ll still be visiting Lists of John peaks as we get the chance, just to see what’s out there. Might as well! Something new and different. If we get to Peak5120 today, that’s another Lists of John peak.
A fork in the trail was just ahead. The branch to the L was marked with a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand.
At the fork. Photo looks SE.
Hmm. Seems like we went to the R here back on Expedition No. 20, Loop, but I just don’t remember for sure.
Better stay L, SPHP! It’s clearly marked.
I know, but part of our problem last time was that my Black Hills National Forest map showed Centennial Trail No. 89 dividing somewhere along in here with both E and W routes for a little way. I remember we took the W route going S, which went fine, but then we somehow got off on the E route on the way back and got lost.
That’s because we went clear to Highland Creek, and it got dark. So you missed the turn onto the W route without realizing it, SPHP.
Yeah, and then we lost the E route entirely.
Don’t overthink this, SPHP! That was long ago. Let’s stick with the clearly marked trail.
Probably good advice. Taking the marked trail L, Lupe went SE a little way along a flat region featuring a few rock formations before the trail turned S, descending into the next valley.
Near the minor rock formations. Photo looks SE.Starting down into the next valley. Photo looks SSW.
Upon reaching the floor of the valley, Lupe came upon more signage. All the arrows pointed N, back where she’d just been, which wasn’t terribly helpful. Marked with not one, but two wands, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned E here, heading down the valley.
This way, SPHP! Photo looks E.
Gosh, I’m really confused now, Loopster. Remember this spot, but just about 100% certain that we did not go E here. We crossed this valley still going S, eventually winding up at Pass 5437. Would bet money on it!
Well, fine. Want to do that again, SPHP? Just point out the trail that goes that way, ’cause I’m not sniffing it!
Alright, I will!
SPHP spent several minutes looking for a trail going S across the valley, but finding none, conceded the point. Lupe headed E.
The trek E was super easy. Nearly flat, the trail soon became a two track road. Lupe eventually crossed a tiny frozen creek. After crossing it, the trail made a big jog to the SW, but soon looped back E again. None of this seemed even faintly familiar to SPHP, but every now and then a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand confirmed that Lupe was still on track.
On the 2 track road. Photo looks ENE.About to cross the tiny frozen creek (R). Photo looks ESE.On the loop SW. Photo looks SW.
After turning E again, the valley widened out. Another wand appeared, marking a R turn off the two track road.
Centennial Trail No. 89 leaves the road here, heading off to the R. Photo looks E.
As a single track, the trail once again doubled back to the SW, starting up a forested slope. After gaining some elevation, it then suddenly turned E. Still climbing at an easy pace, Lupe had to dodge some deadfall before the trail broke out of the forest, angling SE up a grassy slope.
Heading up the grassy slope after leaving the valley. Photo looks SE.
The trail leveled out as Lupe crossed a field, then slowly lost elevation curving E again. Down in the valley ahead, a road came into view that led to a metal building.
Crossing the field. Photo looks SSE.Looking back. Photo looks N.The road (Center) to the metal building comes into view. Photo looks ENE.
Loop! I think we went past that building when we were lost on Expedition No. 20!
Good to know, SPHP! Fortunately, we don’t have to go that way today. Stick with the program!
Centennial Trail No. 89 did not go down to the road. Instead it now swung SW, apparently destined for another valley. A trail map was posted near the start.
Heading for the next valley. Photo looks SW.
What does it say, SPHP?
Shows a lot more trails in this area than I would have thought, Looper.
Does it show your E and W routes of Centennial Trail No. 89?
No. At least, not both of them. Pretty sure we’re on what used to be the E route. No sign of the W route on this map.
And where do we go from here, SPHP?
Just keep heading SW up this next valley, Loop.
The valley was broad. The trail nearly level. That gradually changed. Centennial Trail No. 89 eventually linked up with a road. Lupe came to a spot where it looked like the trail was about to top out, but it didn’t.
In the lower valley. Photo looks S.Climbing faster now as the valley narrows. Photo looks W.Getting close to a top? Photo looks WSW.Nope. Still heading higher. Photo looks WSW.
Roughly 0.75 mile SW of the posted map, Centennial Trail No. 89 finally did top out.
Recognize this place, SPHP?
No, but I know where we are. We’re at Pass 5140, just W of Peak 5396.
Were we here on Expedition No. 20?
Yes, we must have been, Loop, but it was dark as pitch by then.
Pass 5140. Photo looks W.
How much farther to French Creek from here, SPHP?
About another mile, Looper. Downhill all the way!
This way to French Creek! Leaving Pass 5140. Photo looks S.
Heading S from Pass 5140, Centennial Trail No. 89 quickly became steep and rocky as it dropped into the final valley leading to French Creek. After losing 300 feet of elevation, the rate of descent diminished.
Beginning the steep, rocky part of the descent. Photo looks SSW.300 feet lower. Photo looks SW.
SPHP soon spotted a side valley to the R (W).
Hang on, Looper! Let’s check this out. Think this is where the W route came down from Pass 5437.
Hard to say with complete certainty, but it did look like some kind of an old trail went up the side valley. However, this region had burned since Loopster had been here nearly 10 years ago. Whatever remained of Centennial Trail No. 89’s W route was choked with uncleared deadfall.
Lupe continued on. The trail wound down the narrow valley. Loopster came to a tiny creek with a teeny weeny cattail pond. At the lower end of the valley, a boardwalk went past a wall of rock. An intersection near French Creek was just around the next bend.
By the teeny weeny cattail pond.Approaching the boardwalk. Photo looks SE.At the trail junction near French Creek.
Still another mile to the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead, but it was an easy, scenic, upstream trek. Two fords, but they were frozen stiff in early February. The Carolina Dog sauntered across both without a care in the world.
Following Centennial Trail No. 89 upstream to the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SSW.The first frozen ford. Photo looks SSW.Second ford. Photo looks SE.Standing on French Creek. Photo looks ESE.
Beyond the second ford, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed French Creek SE to the next bend before leaving it to head W across an open field. The trail soon turned SW. By then it wasn’t much farther to the French Creek Horse Camp.
Beyond the second ford. Photo looks ESE.A sunlit forest. Photo looks SE.Crossing the field after leaving French Creek. Photo looks W.Near the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.Made it! At the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.
12:49 PM, French Creek Horse Camp –
Well, here we are Loop! The French Creek Horse Camp! Haven’t been here in nearly 10 years. Was a nice hike, wasn’t it?
Just think, SPHP! Last time we were here on Expedition No. 20, we were just getting started. 4 miles down, with 25+ to go!
Yes and no, Looper. Actually the very last time we were here, we were on our way back from Highland Creek that same day. It was getting mighty dark, and we were already famished and about worn out. Which brings up another subject. What do you think? Do you feel up to going on to Peak5120? It will likely get dark on us on the way back.
As long as you aren’t going to make it a tradition to get us lost in the dark so that we have to stay out all night, I’m all in, SPHP!
SPHP wasn’t about to let that happen, especially not in February! So, rather than return to Badger Hole, Lupe headed S on CSP Road No. 4.
Leaving the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks ESE.
After crossing a bridge over French Creek, CSP Road No. 4 wound SE for 0.33 mile up to Pass 4780. A faint trail beyond a red sign that said “No Vehicles” went ENE from here toward grassy hills where the old forest had burned.
ENE was the way to Peak5120. However, the original plan had been to stick with CSP No. 4, going over this pass down to the next valley before turning NE. Yet staying up on the open ground held some appeal, too.
Doesn’t say “No Dingoes”, SPHP! Want to try it?
Pass 4780. Photo looks NE.
Sure, Loop! Why not?
Should have known better. That burnt forest was why not. At first, it all went fine. Loopster trotted through the tall grass, taking aim generally toward HP5080, the highest hill visible from the pass. The terrain soon forced her NNE along the ridgeline, which was where the trouble began.
In the tall grass, heading for HP5080 (R). Photo looks NE.
Lots of deadfall along the ridge!
Ignoring this early warning, SPHP led Lupe up to a rock formation with a nice view to the NW.
On the rock with a view. Photo looks NW.
From this viewpoint, Lupe continued on over the S shoulder of the next hill to the E, dodging deadfall to the extent possible. However, getting past the shoulder provided no relief at all. A winding, deadfall-laden mess the rest of the way to HP5080!
Criminitly, Loop! I never learn, do I?
No comment, SPHP. C’mon, let’s get there!
Approaching the S shoulder (R) of the next hill. Photo looks NE.Closing (slowly!) in on HP5080 (L). Photo looks ESE.
A wretched trek through the deadfall finally got Looper up to HP5080, which was just as big a mess as the rest of this icky ridge route. Once again, no relief in sight. More burnt forest between here and a second HP5080, a mere 0.25 mile to the ENE. 140 feet of elevation loss would be required before heading up its steep W slope, thrashing amid deadfall every step of the way.
And after the second HP5080, presumably a rinse and repeat yet again before Lupe would arrive at Peak5120.
On the W HP5080 looking ENE toward the E one. Peak 5120 is partially visible beyond it.
Think I need a pick-me-upper, SPHP! Must be chocolate coconut bar time by now!
You’ve got that right, sweet puppy!
Unfortunately, chocolate coconut bars have such a short half-life that the ordeal soon had to be resumed. For a while now, a road had been visible in the valleys to the S. By the time Lupe managed to get down close to the saddle leading to the second HP5080, SPHP was done.
Forget this ghastly ridge route, Loopster! Head for the road!
And lose all this elevation we’ve been struggling to maintain, SPHP?
Yes, absolutely! This is taking forever and a day!
About to escape the deadfall and head down to the road. Photo looks SSE.
What a relief to be able to move again! The valley route was the way to go! Following the road around the S end of the second HP5080, the SW slopes of Peak 5120 came into view. The road wound right on up to them. A short grassy climb ended with another brief deadfall battle.
Going around the S end of the E HP5080 (L). Photo looks NE.SW slopes of Peak 5120 dead ahead! Photo looks NE.Success! On Peak 5120. HP4971 (far L). Photo looks S.
2:55 PM, 53ºF, Peak5120 – Wow! This could have been so much easier! A valley road hike all the way back to CSP Road No. 4 was clearly in the Carolina Dog’s future, but that could wait. Time for a break! As usual, today’s menu included the last chocolate coconut bar, Taste of the Wild, water, and for SPHP, an apple.
Peak 5120’s summit ridge looked like every other hill on the way here, a complete mess. Further exploration hardly seemed worth the effort. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, facing into a cool 10-15 mph NW breeze, Lupe relaxed while trying to enjoy the burnt tree-broken views.
Mount Coolidge (R of Center, beyond Lupe). Photo looks NW.Little Devils Tower (far L), Cathedral Spires (L), Black Elk Peak (R), and Peak 6735 (far R). Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Although the views were interesting, nothing to the E or S was as high as Peak 5120, and higher hills to the W were harder to positively identify through all the dead trees.
Lower terrain all the way to the South Dakota prairies on the horizon. Photo looks SE.Looking WNW.
Despite the sunny openness of the burnt forest, as the late afternoon sun sank in the SW, Peak5120 felt isolated, remote.
Probably doesn’t get many visitors, Loop, but Jerry Brekhus was here once, a few years back. Betty, too.
Oh, do you suppose they built a cairn somewhere up here, SPHP?
Hmm. Maybe. Want to look around for one?
Exploring a little way along the summit ridge. Photo looks NNE.
A check of the highest portion of the summit ridge revealed no obvious cairns. 40 minutes after arriving, Lupe left Peak 5120, sniffing her way first to a slightly lower SW shoulder, before ultimately taking the S ridge down to the road’s high point.
Leaving Peak 5120. Photo looks S.
A little open knob W of the road offered a great view of Peak 5120 back to the N. As the American Dingo started down the road, a clear view of Mount Coolidge was dead ahead, too. Lupe would pass E of it again on the way back to Badger Hole.
Mount Coolidge (L of Center). Photo looks NW.
The valley road route back to CSP Road No. 4 was a brilliant success! So much easier! Then it was N up to Pass 4780 again before heading down to the French Creek Horse Camp.
Got dark well before Loopster made it back to Badger Hole. Silver stars twinkled above when SPHP stopped to put new batteries into the little flashlight. But, as promised, the Carolina Dog suffered no repeat of the ever so long ago Expedition No. 20 fiasco.
No losing Centennial Trail No. 89 this time around! (7:09 PM, 44ºF)
S of Peak 5120, Black Hills of South Dakota, 2-7-22
