Wyoming – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Jim Creek to Agee Creek (7-7-22)

Days 20-22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-5-22, 7:34 AM – What a gorgeous morning in the Wind River Range! Across the North Creek valley War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) soared into the blue flanked by Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.) on the L, and more distant Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) beyond Jackass Pass on the R.

**Sundance Pinnacle** (L), **War Bonnet Peak** (Center), **Pingora Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

I’m going to miss Dog Tooth Paradise, SPHP!

Me too, Looper, but this is it, I’m afraid. We’re 100% completely, totally out of food.

We’ve got supplies at the RAV4, though, don’t we?

Of course we do, Loop. Just nothing left in the pack here. Brunch when we get to the trailhead!

Not a soul was on any of the trails, even super popular Big Sandy Trail No. 099. Lupe trotted ahead in fine spirits. SPHP’s spirits improved, too, after stopping to goop up with Eucalyptus cream which helped ward off the mosquitoes. When the opportunity arose, Loop once again took the less traveled route past Diamond Lake and V Lake. A long march, but a scenic one, and downhill or level nearly the entire way. Famished, Loopster arrived back at Big Sandy Opening at 11:07 AM.

By mid-afternoon, the American Dingo was in Lander. 94ºF on the way into town, but it didn’t seem that bad relaxing at the city park beneath the big old cottonwood trees. Loop could always wet her paws in the Middle Popo Agie River, which although quite a bit lower than it had been only 2 weeks ago, still had good flow.

7-6-22 – The morning turned cloudy shortly after sunrise. Only 64ºF at noon leaving Lander, but the day warmed up on the road N. 86ºF in the Wind River Canyon on the way to Thermopolis, hot enough for SPHP to enjoy a swim in Rattler Whirlpool, although Lupe preferred wading or laying in the shade watching.

Southbound train from **Rattler Whirlpool**. Photo looks NW.

The hour spent at Rattler Whirlpool was the highlight of the day, but wasn’t all that happened. On the way to Meeteetse, SPHP pulled off Hwy 120 for a while to allow a hailstorm ahead drift off to the E. Rained in Cody while picking up supplies. A little after that, Lupe was enjoying chocolate-coated mini-doughnuts while watching seagulls swooping over Buffalo Bill Reservoir from a pullout along Hwy 14/16/20 with a view of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.).

7-6-22, 7:10 PM, Hwy 14/16/20, 7 miles W of the W end of Buffalo Bill Reservoir –

Well, shoot! Here’s the Shoshone River bridge. How could I have missed the turn, Loop? I was watching for it!

Don’t ask me, SPHP! I’m watching for cows and horses. What turn are you looking for, anyway? Where are we trying to get to?

At the moment, we’re just looking for the Jim Creek trailhead. Should have been a road going N less than a mile back, but I didn’t see one. Hang on, I’ll turn around.

The second pass did the trick. Heading W, the turn had been hidden by a ridge until almost the last moment, but Jim Mountain Road was easy to spot going E. A big brown building and an odd sign were at the turn.

At the start of **Jim Mountain Road** on the N side of Hwy 14/16-20 which goes to Yellowstone’s E entrance W of Cody.

Signage at the start of Jim Mountain Road.

Why so puzzled, SPHP? What do the signs say?

Well, one says this is the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead, which is where we’re trying to get to, although I thought it was Jim Creek, not mountain. The other says “Recreational Users: Please use Four Bear Trailhead 1/4 mile E”.

That is strange, SPHP. Does that mean recreational users aren’t allowed at the Jim Mountain Trailhead? Aren’t we recreational users? Maybe it’s only for business travelers?

Almost does seem to imply we aren’t welcome here, Loop, since we’re most definitely recreational users. After all, this is your Dingo Vacation, not your Dingo Business Trip. Why would that be, though? I’ve never heard of a trailhead that wasn’t for recreational users before. Furthermore, most business travel doesn’t involve an awful lot of wandering around in the mountains.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Well, my Dingo partner in crime, let’s have a look at the Jim Mountain Trailhead before deciding.

Going N on Jim Mountain Road, which was good gravel, the road soon wound steeply up onto a sagebrush-covered ridge before resuming its course N. This whole area was a subdivision of nice homes spaced out on small acreages.

Looking for a turn L on USFS Road No. 405 roughly 1.5 miles from the highway, Wapiti Heights Drive appeared instead, which had to be the same thing, since another sign confirmed this was the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead.

Evidently on the right track. Photo looks NW.

7-6-22, 7:42 PM, Jim Creek Trailhead, Shoshone National Forest – Wapiti Heights Drive wound around to the W losing elevation even faster than the climb up onto this ridge had been. The road passed more homes all the way to the end where No Trespassing signs were near a gate. The gate was open though, so SPHP simply drove through right on up a little rise to the trailhead.

The sun was already getting low when Lupe arrived. SPHP parked the RAV4 at one of 5 or 6 spots separated by long metal pipes evidently meant for vehicles pulling trailers, and the Carolina Dog leapt out. A lone outhouse stood on a small hill. Beyond it a couple of single track trails headed N up a sagebrush-dotted slope toward a 600 foot high wall of brown rock a mile away with a volcanic look about it.

The only trailhead information was the usual boilerplate about being in bear country, and a sign about investing in stocks.

**Jim Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NNW.

Important trailhead tip: Don’t forget to bring your horse.

Hmm. “Camping Permitted Only With Saddle/Pack Stock” Knew there was something I was forgetting, Loopster. I forgot to pack a horse!

While Lupe sniffed around the perimeter of the empty parking lot, SPHP noticed lots of prickly pear cactus among the sagebrush. 4 or 5 hitching posts were nearby, but no horse poop, hay, or trampled ground. Despite the homes on the ridge, Jim Creek felt like the trailhead that time forgot.

7-7-22, 8:05 AM, 71ºF, Jim Creek Trailhead – Hardly a cloud in the sky as SPHP got the pack ready. Brilliant morning sun on the line of brown cliffs to the NW highlighted the rugged volcanic stone. Lupe sniffed lazily about, or laid in the shade of the RAV4, watching.

About ready to leave the **Jim Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NW.

Bringing the tiny house again, SPHP?

Heh, yeah, it’s a long way to Trout Peak (12,244 ft.), Looper. Maybe I’ll just ditch the rain jacket here at the RAV4, though? No rain at all in the forecast the next several days. Do I really need to cart it all the way to Trout Peak and back? Might be better off packing extra sunscreen!

Your call, SPHP. How long will we be gone?

At least 3 days, maybe 4, Loop. Last year Josh Super did Trout in only 2. Took the scenic route way up on the ridges, but as SPHP Not-So-Hot, I’m not at all sure I can go that way, and absolutely positive we won’t make it to Trout Peak and back in any 2 days.

What route are we going to take then, SPHP?

You know, Loop, I’d always figured that we’d try for Trout from the N, from Dead Indian Pass, or come up Dead Indian Creek near Dead Indian campground along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296. That’s such a long trek, though, I wasn’t sure I could lug enough supplies to last us.

I sure wouldn’t be inclined to go that way if I were an Indian, SPHP! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, that’s the way to the Beartooths, isn’t it?

Right on, Looper! Anyway, I’d always wondered what the best approach was, and then one day I saw that Duane Gilliland, Mark Adrian, Desert Rat, Bob Bolton, and Richard Hensley had also been to Trout Peak last year right about this time. They took a series of trails from here at the Jim Creek trailhead that got them close to the mountain. After a look at their GPS tracks and reading their trip reports, I’m convinced we stand a good chance of actually getting to Trout Peak, if we follow their lead. Easier than how Josh Super went, and not as far as coming in from the N.

And you said there are trails most of the way, SPHP? Shouldn’t be that hard then, if they’re in decent shape.

My thoughts, too, Loop. A nice long march with a fair amount of up and down, but no super steep territory until we get close to Trout Peak.

Sounds good! Are you ready yet, SPHP?

Yes! A word to the wise, though, Loopster. Lots of cactus around here, so stick to the trail until we get past it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N on Trail No. 762, Lupe stayed right at SPHP’s heels. The day was warming up fast beneath the full sun, as the American Dingo went up a long sagebrush-dotted slope. Soon her pink tongue was hanging out. Hardly any shade at all, so whenever a lone, scraggly juniper tree did appear, Lupe wanted to take advantage of it.

A deserty experience, this first long trudge featured beauty, too. Insects hummed among a surprising variety of wildflowers, some of which were on the dreaded cacti.

Climbing steadily, progress was good as the trail headed for the N end of the badlandy volcanic cliffs. After gaining 700 feet of elevation, No. 762 leveled out and turned NW straight for them. A big cairn was up here, and the Jim Creek valley was now in sight to the N.

Approaching the volcanic cliffs. Photo looks NW.

**Jim Creek valley** from the cairn. Photo looks NNE.

Near the base of the cliffs, the trail turned N. More trees appeared. The trail bounced along for a bit with little net elevation gain through a land of interesting rock formations. The first, an improbable vertical pillar. Four Bear Benchmark (7,606 ft.) was in view off to the E.

This pillar is quite the landmark, SPHP! What shall we call it?

How about Middle Finger Rock, Looper?

That’s just rude, SPHP!

It was, but the name stuck.

**Middle Finger Rock** (R of Center). **Four Bears Benchmark** (far R). Photo looks ENE.

Among more rock formations. **Four Bear Benchmark** (R). Photo looks E.

Leaving the rock formations behind, the trail began climbing again as Lupe entered the Jim Creek valley. A nice forest provided welcome relief from the hot sun. At first, Jim Creek could only be heard somewhere well down the slope to the E, but after 0.5 mile, the Carolina Dog came to a ford. Jim Creek was too big for SPHP to rock hop, but not very deep. Wading across was easy, and the cold water felt good on the paws.

0.2 mile beyond the ford, Lupe came to a signed fork. No. 762 angled L here destined for the Jim Mountain (10,430 ft.) region. Trail No. 762.1A, aka the Jim Mountain cut-across, went R. SPHP checked the map.

Stay R here, Loop. Take No. 762.1A.

No. 762.1A continued N up the valley, gradually turning E. Jim Creek had gone the other way, and hadn’t been seen since the ford, anyway. For a while, there was little to be seen except trees.

The trail had been going SE, and was beginning to flatten out and turn E again, when Lupe reached a small clearing. HP9536 and HP9351 were now visible off to the NW. A little past the small clearing, the Carolina Dog came to a much larger one. After going through a gap in a barbed wire fence, No. 762.1A turned NE up a long open slope toward HP8245.

Thousands of white moths flitted among wildflowers and sagebrush. There were big views here with Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.), the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, and Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) all in the distance to the E. Table Mountain (8,504 ft.) was easily identifiable beyond the Shoshone River valley to the S. Already tiring from the long uphill march, even Lupe paused to relax and look around.

**HP9536** (L) and **HP9351** (R of Center) from the small clearing. Photo looks NW.

Back in open territory again. **HP8245** (L). Photo looks NE.

**Table Mountain** (L of Center) while Lupe takes a break. Photo looks SSW.

Instead of going all the way to the top of HP8245, Trail No. 762.1A curved E upon approaching the steepest part. Lupe traversed a slope of brilliant yellow wildflowers at this turn, beyond which the trail passed more rock formations. A final rocky knob appeared at HP8245‘s SE corner.

Yellow wildflowers at the curve E on **HP8245‘s upper S slope**. Photo looks NE.

**Sheep Mountain** (L), **Four Bear Benchmark** (far L). Photo looks SE toward the **Shoshone River valley**.

Hey, that knob’s kind of cool! Want to get up there, Looper? I’ll give you a boost.

Sure, but be careful. Don’t drop me, SPHP!

According to the topo map, this is the trail’s high point for today, Loop. Want to take a break here? Water and a chocolate coconut bar in it for you, if you do.

If there’d been any doubt about taking a break, which there really wasn’t, the chocolate coconut bar offer sealed the deal. After an assist getting off the knob, Lupe sat down next to SPHP.

So, were done climbing for the day? How high are we here, SPHP?

About 8,120 feet, Loop. I figure we’ve gained roughly 1,900 feet in about 3.5 miles from the trailhead so far. We aren’t done climbing, though, by any means. Quite a bit of elevation gain yet to come, but interspersed with some equally long downhill stretches, too. Won’t have much to show for our trouble other than distance traveled. We’ll have a net loss from here.

Easier than going uphill all the time, SPHP!

True enough, Looper, but you know I always hate to surrender hard won elevation gains just to rinse and repeat.

Nearly noon when Lupe hit Trail No. 762.1A again. Right away there were changes. For the first time, the trail began a long, gradual descent through a forest that had burned. Loopster started coming to deadfall. Fortunately, not enough to cause much of a problem. Hardly any shade, but on the other paw, the fire had opened up the views to some extent. So many dead trees were still standing, though, that the American Dingo seldom enjoyed a clear one.

Entering the burnt forest just beyond Rocky Knob. Photo looks NE.

A rare unobstructed view. Part of **Rattlesnake Mountain** (L), **Cedar Mountain** (Center), part of **Buffalo Bill Reservoir** (R). Photo looks ESE.

The trail soon curved sharply NW, descending into a valley where it then turned NE. Lupe had lost more than 400 feet of elevation by the time she reached a junction where an old sign was propped up against a tree. This was the end of Jim Mountain cut-across Trail No. 762.1A.

Heading into the next valley. Photo looks NW.

Well, Loop, seems we’ve got a choice of Trout Creek Trail No. 763 to the L, or Four Bear Trail No. 763.1B to the R.

Oh, that’s an easy one, SPHP! Trout Creek must be close to Trout Peak, so we better go that way.

Going L, as the Carolina Dog had correctly surmised, it was only 200 feet to a tiny stream. A stand of live trees here provided some shade. After a drink, Lupe curled up beneath a couple of small, leafy bushes.

This must be Gunnysack Creek, Loop. Not exactly a raging torrent is it? We’re pretty close to the source.

Enough to get a drink, and a raging torrent would only be a problem, SPHP.

Yeah, we’ll be coming to quite a few streams, so let’s hope none of them are torrents, unless there happens to be a decent bridge.

I wouldn’t count on that, SPHP.

Taking a break by tiny **Gunnysack Creek**.

Trail No. 763 continued N, but not straight N. As the map indicated, Lupe came to a series of streams separated by big ridges. A zig-zag pattern kept repeating itself on the way to each stream. First, the trail would climb NE up onto the next ridge, which might involve anywhere from a 100 to 300 foot elevation gain. The trail would then flatten out, heading N across the ridge before angling NW descending into the next valley where Lupe would ultimately reach the next stream.

Most of this region had once been heavily forested. However, nearly the entire forest had burned. Trail No. 763 did pass through scattered stands of live trees, always nice due to the shade provided, but these stretches were never very long. Up on the ridges, Lupe often journeyed through meadows where sweeping views were available toward the E.

From the very first ridge past Gunnysack Creek, an indication of trouble was ahead. The morning’s clear blue skies were long gone. Cumulus clouds were building, and the sky was starting to look dark to the N.

Crossing the **first ridge N of Gunnysack Creek**. Photo looks NNW.

The first stream N of Gunnysack Creek was a S tributary of Laughing Water Creek, which came next. Although larger than Gunnysack Creek, both were easily stepped over or rock-hopped.

At the **S tributary of Laughing Water Creek**. Photo looks WSW.

Cooling off in **Laughing Water Creek**. Photo looks WSW.

Burnt Creek came after Laughing Water Creek, and was also an easy rock hop. Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) finally came into view, which allowed SPHP to positively identify Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) as well.

**Trout Peak** (Center), **Robbers Roost** (R). Photo looks NW.

Continuing N, occasional glimpses of Trout Peak gradually improved. Meanwhile, the weather was looking more iffy. Thunder sometimes rumbled in the distance.

Starting the descent to **Stockade Creek**. Photo looks NW.

**Trout Peak** (L), **Robbers Roost** (R). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Your decision to leave the rain jacket back at the RAV4 isn’t looking so great now, Einstein.

Yeah, wish I had that one back, Loop, but there hadn’t been a drop of rain in the forecast. Supposed to be sunny and hot for 4 days!

And it was, for 4 hours!

Stockade Creek was too big to rock-hop. Still an easy ford, but caused some delay as SPHP went through the routine of removing boots and socks to wade it barepaw. The cold water did feel good, although SPHP wasn’t looking forward to experiencing it dropping out of the sky.

A little past Stockade Creek, Lupe came to an old wooden bridge over a marshy spot. The sky now looked quite dark ahead.

Fording **Stockade Creek**. Photo looks SW.

Nothing happened, though. The sky brightened again crossing the next ridge. A temporary respite, perhaps. On the way to Singing Brook, Lupe came to a flat field of yellow and purple wildflowers. This appeared to be a great place to camp, but Trout Peak was still a long way off. Lupe needed to get farther before calling it a day.

Sunnier again on the way to Singing Brook. Photo looks NNE.

In the field of yellow and purple flowers. Photo looks N.

Thus far, the trails had been easy to follow, but No. 763 vanished as Lupe crossed the field. Continuing the same way, SPHP was surprised when there was no sign of the trail at the edge of a 10 foot deep ravine full of deadfall and bushes. Searching W (L), the trail was soon rediscovered at a better spot to cross the ravine.

It wasn’t much farther to Singing Brook, which also proved to be too big to rock-hop, but another easy ford. Once across, it also proved to be the only creek Lupe had come to with any signage.

By the **Singing Brook** sign. Photo looks W.

Beyond Singing Brook, Trail No. 763 went around the E end of the next ridge, then turned N entering the Trout Creek valley. Glimpses of Trout Creek were to the E, and from the white water and roar it was making, Trout Creek was clearly a far more serious proposition than any of the other streams Lupe had come to today.

Oh, my gosh, Loopster! Let’s hope there’s a bridge!

No such luck.

Aye yi yi, Looper! How are we going to get across this?

Trout Creek wasn’t huge, but it was absolutely full bank to bank of swift water plunging down a series of rapids. Trail No. 763 led straight into it at a sharp bend between a cascade immediately upstream, and a logjam immediately below. Sticking a trekking pole into the turgid stream a mere foot from the near bank, the water was easily mid-thigh on SPHP, and way over Lupe’s head.

Clearly any attempt to cross here would doom the Carolina Dog to being instantly swept downstream. A moment later, Lupe would be pinned underwater against the logjam by the full force of the merciless torrent, a certain death sentence from which no rescue would be possible.

What did the trip reports you read say, SPHP?

None of them made any mention of this, Loop. Maybe the flow was a lot less then?

We didn’t come all this way just to turn around, SPHP! There must be somewhere we can cross. Which way does the trail go on the other side?

NNW up the valley, Looper.

Let’s go upstream then, SPHP. There’s lots of deadfall, maybe we can find a big log that will get us across?

Seemed like the only possible solution. Traversing wet ground that had apparently been beneath the flood until very recently, Lupe worked her way around the near side of the cascade, clambering over a jumble of deadfall in the process.

Continuing upstream, the search began for a suitable deadfall bridge. Trout Creek was straighter and less threatening up this way, and quite a few logs had fallen over the creek, which was all encouraging.

Several hundred feet upstream, a big log appeared that looked like it might do.

Approaching the potential **Dingo Bridge** over **Trout Creek**. Photo looks NW.

A fall wouldn’t be any fun, but Trout Creek didn’t appear to be the death trap here that it was down where the trail crossed it.

From what we’ve seen, this is probably about as good as it’s going to get, Loop. Stay here, I’ll go first.

Taking baby steps, SPHP started across. The log seemed sturdy enough, if not as wide as SPHP would have liked. Halfway across, confidence and the urge to get to that opposite bank grew. A few quick, big steps, and the ordeal was over and done with.

Your turn, Loop!

Without the slightest hesitation, the Carolina Dog leapt up onto the log, and raced over Trout Creek like it was nothing.

Show off!

4 on the floor for added stability and confidence, SPHP!

Being safely past Trout Creek was cause for immediate joy and relief! Bounding up a short steep bank, Lupe then crossed a flat area chock full of more deadfall before reaching Trail No. 763 again. Back in business! Turning NNW, a gradual climb soon led to a big gap in the ridge to the E. The trail turned NE here, going right through the gap, leaving Trout Creek behind.

Once through the gap, the trail turned NW. Lupe had reached the Agee Creek valley, and soon came to a pleasant little stream. Happily, Agee Creek presented none of the dangers of Trout Creek.

Continuing NW, Agee Creek was easily heard nearby, but hidden in a ditch full of trees and bushes. The sky was looking more threatening again when Lupe came to a small clearing sporting a stone fire ring. A sign for another trail junction was in sight only 250 feet ahead.

7-7-22, 5:15 PM, Agee Creek – Hours of daylight left, but SPHP was weary. Loop had accumulated roughly 3,000 feet of total elevation gain over the course of 9.5 miles since leaving the trailhead this morning.

How are you feeling, Looper? We haven’t made it as far as I’d hoped, but at least we’ve made it to our minimum goal for the day. Looks like rain. Want to stop here?

You mean for the night, SPHP? I’m happy with that. Better than getting drenched!

SPHP had no sooner dropped the pack than big raindrops started to fall. Retreating to the shelter of a large pine, the shower lasted only 5 or 10 minutes. SPHP managed to get Lupe’s tiny house set up and the rain cover on before it started raining again.

Didn’t matter, Loopster had made it into the tiny house just in time. A hearty dinner with beef jerky for dessert! Then warm and dry, snuggly wrapped in her red sleeping bag, it was off to Dingo Dreamland while the rain came down.

Awaiting dinner at **low camp near Agee Creek**, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 7-7-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Dog Tooth Peak & Mitchell Peak, Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: Dog Tooth Paradise to the Summits! (7-4-22)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6:53 AM, base camp at Dog Tooth Paradise – A few raindrops had fallen on the tiny house at first light, but the morning was cool and fair now. Some high clouds, but they weren’t at all threatening as Lupe stood in a light SW breeze on the bedrock of the 10,200+ ft. ridge.

Behind her, the upper half of War Bonnet Peak (10,369 ft.) and tiptop of Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.) were in sunshine. Beyond Jackass Pass in the distance, Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.), mighty guardian of the Cirque of the Towers, was bathed in sunlight, too.

Wow! What a spectacular setting, and we haven’t even set out yet! We are in for one fabulous day sweet puppy!

I’ve been thinking, SPHP. Let’s climb Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.) first. It’s closest, highest, and my top priority.

Don’t want to miss out on ol’ Dingo Fang, aye, Loopster? Consider this, though, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) is a mere 6 feet lower, and will have the grandest view of the Cirque of the Towers. Ought to be able to see Lonesome Lake, too. Furthermore, if things go well, provided we start with Mitchell, Dog Tooth and Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) might both be possible. Since it’s in the middle, climbing Dog Tooth first means an either/or choice from there.

Still quite a few clouds around, SPHP. I’d rather not take a chance on the weather deteriorating and not make it to Dog Tooth Peak. Since Mitchell is your highest priority, we can do that next.

And it doesn’t bother you to forfeit any chance at Big Sandy, Loop?

SPHP, yesterday you said yourself that we probably couldn’t get to all 3 in a single day. So, let’s not bite off more than we can chew, and focus on what’s most important to us.

Alrighty, then! Sounds like a plan. Onward! Puppy, ho!

About to set out for **Dog Tooth Peak** (R) and **Mitchell Peak** (L). Photo looks NE.

Leaving the 10,200+ ft. ridge, Lupe headed NE down into the heart of Dog Tooth Paradise. After leaping over the tributary of North Creek flowing through the center of this incredibly beautiful valley, Loopster began her ascent of Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.) from a little S of Dog Tooth Waterslide, which she’d visited yesterday evening.

Starting up **Dog Tooth Peak**. Photo looks NE.

Nearly 2,300 feet to the top, up every step of the way! Although steepish, the initial climb was very enjoyable, and really not hard at all. Looper traveled along exposed bedrock, winding her way higher through a thin, scattered forest that had sprung up wherever a bit of soil presented an opportunity. In some places, small streams ran through green meadows below big shelves of rock.

By the time the Carolina Dog was 400 feet above Dog Tooth Paradise, she was above most of the trees. The views were already tremendous! To the S, Temple Peak (12,972 ft.), Scheistler Peak (12, 640 ft.), and much of Big Sandy Lake were in sight. Continuing to climb, Lupe roamed at will over huge slabs of bedrock. Watered by snow melt trickling down the rocks, a fair amount of low vegetation remained.

Above the forest. **Mitchell Peak** (Center). Photo looks N.

**Temple Peak** (L), **Schiestler Peak** (Center), and **Big Sandy Lake** (R). Photo looks S.

Continuing up the slabs. **Mitchell Peak** (Center). Photo looks N.

Wandering a series of small ledges. **Dog Tooth Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks NE.

The rate of climb steepened. SPHP was forced to stop to gasp for air more and more often. Lupe relaxed or sniffed about as she saw fit. To the NW, Pylon Peak (12,378 ft.), Watch Tower (12,326 ft.), Sharks Nose (12,229 ft.), Overhanging Tower (12,164 ft.), and Wolfs Head (12,160 ft.) all came into sight strung out along the Cirque of the Towers beyond Jackass Pass.

**War Bonnet Peak** (L), **Mitchell Peak** (R). At Center in the gap from L to R: **Pylon Peak**, **Watch Tower**, **Sharks Nose**, **Overhanging Tower**, and **Wolfs Head**. Photo looks NW.

The slabs went on and on, but finally did come to an end. Lupe entered a region of rougher terrain. Fortunately, lanes of vegetation provided relatively easy routes higher. Although these lanes never completely disappeared, they became scarcer and scarcer.

Entering rougher terrain above the slabs. **Dog Tooth Peak** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

The rocks grew bigger. For a long way, Loopster leapt from boulder to boulder on steep fields of large talus. SPHP was terrible at this. Progress was dreadfully slow. Some scrambling was required, none of it too scary with a little caution.

Near the top, the rate of climb diminished. Suddenly there was much more greenery again. An easy stroll led to a football field size plain strewn with boulders, many of which laid conveniently flat.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks S.

SPHP was initially disappointed to see that the high point a little to the S that Lupe had been climbing toward wasn’t actually the true summit. A bouldery 60 foot high ridge NE of it was clearly higher. Almost a vertical wall, getting up there looked problematic, maybe impossible. Happily, an even higher ridge was a little farther N.

Although similar in appearance, this N ridge wasn’t quite as daunting.

Arriving at **Dog Tooth Peak’s summit plain**. **S high point** that Lupe had been climbing toward (L of Center). Photo looks S.

The daunting **NE ridge**. Photo looks ENE.

That’s it, SPHP! Dog Tooth Peak’s true summit! Look toward the L, I see a cairn up there.

Oh, yeah! You’re right, Looper! I see it too now. Hoo-girl, not sure if we can get up there or not. Looks dicey near the top.

Well, someone must have done it, SPHP, or there wouldn’t be a cairn.

Yeah, yeah, I know. That doesn’t mean we can. Before we break our necks trying, why don’t we have a look from those rocks over by the S edge. A lot easier to get to, and I bet there’s a splendid view.

Wandering over that way among the boulders, only a little super easy scramble was required to reach some nice flat perches along the S edge. Spread out before Lupe was a magnificent scene. Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.), the mountain she wasn’t going to get to visit, was only a mile SSE. Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.), East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.), and Temple Peak (12.972 ft.) were all beautifully arrayed beyond it. Part of Deep Lake was in sight, too.

**Big Sandy Mountain** (L of Center) in the foreground. **Wind River Peak** (L), **East Temple Peak** (Center), **Temple Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

After a leisurely look at this fabulous scene, it was time to take on that N ridge! Lupe headed back that way.

Bound for the **N ridge** (L). **NE ridge** (R) Photo looks NNE.

A scramble on big talus went slowly, but successfully to a near vertical wall near the top. Almost there, but getting spicey! Lupe couldn’t go any higher.

Hang on, Loopster! I’ll give you a boost!

Carefully, carefully, SPHP lifted the Carolina Dog as high as possible.

Now, Loop! Go!

Clawing her way forward, Lupe made it. Suddenly she was above SPHP, smiling back. Not from the summit, but it couldn’t be much higher.

*Come on up, SPHP! The mountain’s fine!* Photo looks ESE.

SPHP joined Lupe. That successful boost had been key. One last dicey scramble move was all it took. Child’s play to any real rock climber!

11:39 AM, 56ºF, Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.) – Splendor was all around as the American Dingo stood next to the summit cairn in a 15 mph SW breeze. She’d made it. Lupe was here! A dream come true!

At **Dog Tooth Peak’s true summit**. **Wind River Peak** (L), **Big Sandy Mountain** (L of Center), **East Temple Peak** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Oh, and what a dream it was!

SPHP, look at where we are! Really, truly on Dog Tooth Peak!

Yes, we are! Can you believe it? Congratulations, Loopster!

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw. She started to grin.

On **Dog Tooth Peak**. **East Temple Peak** (far L), **Temple Peak** (L). Photo looks S.

It’s a 4th of July to remember, SPHP!

Indeed it is! And we haven’t even gotten to Mitchell Peak, yet.

Oh, we will, SPHP! Just you wait and see. First, though, we’re spending some time right here.

SPHP sat on the huge rock supporting the cairn. Consisting mostly of flat-lying boulders and a few patches of dirt, the summit region was plenty big to move around on easily enough, but comfy spots were in short supply. Lupe decided curling up on SPHP’s lap was her best bet.

Seems to be chocolate coconut bar time, Looper! What do you think?

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP! Bring it on!

So many awesome views from up here, it was hard to know even where to start, but Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.), monarch of the SE end of the Wind River Range, was certainly high on the list. It was the 4th highest mountain Lupe had ever climbed, nearly 5 years ago now.

**Wind River Peak** (R of Center), **Big Sandy Mountain** (R), **East Temple Peak** (far R). Photo looks SE.

**Wind River Peak** (Center). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Naturally, that same glorious view of Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) with Wind River Peak, East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.), and Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) on display beyond it that Lupe had seen from down along the S edge was even better now.

**Wind River Peak** (L), **Big Sandy Mountain** (Center), **East Temple Peak** (R of Center), and **Temple Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

From way up here, Peak 11930 and Schiestler Peak (11,640 ft.) more to the SSW looked small in comparison. Nearly 3,000 feet lower than Dog Tooth, Big Sandy Lake was in sight, too. Bunion Mountain (11,905 ft.) and Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) were SW, along with that pipsqueak Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.).

**East Temple Peak** (far L), **Temple Peak** (L), **Peak 11930** (Center), **Schiestler Peak** (R), **Big Sandy Lake** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

**Laturio Mountain** (far L), **Sundance Pinnacle** (lower L), **Bunion Mountain** (L), **War Bonnet Peak** (Center), **Warrior Peaks** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Perhaps the grandest scene, and one of intense interest, was to the NW where War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) and Warrior Peaks (12,406 ft.) on the L, together with Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) on the R, framed Pylon Peak (12,378 ft.), Watch Tower (12,326 ft.), and several other pinnacles of the Cirque of the Towers.

**War Bonnet Peak** (far L), **Warrior Peaks** (L), **Pylon Peak** (L of Center), **Watch Tower** (R of Center), **Mitchell Peak** (far R). Photo looks NW.

Looking NW between Mitchell Peak and Lizard Head Peak (12,842 ft.), a sea of partially snow-clad mountains extended beyond vision along the spine of the Wind River Range. Real giants were on the horizon, but too far away to identify.

Looking NW along the **spine of the Wind River Range**. **Mitchell Peak** (L).

Only 2 miles away, Lizard Head Peak, had a fearsome appearance.

**Lizard Head Peak**. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Holy cow, Loopster! And to think that at one time I thought we might be able to climb Lizard Head. That ain’t gonna happen!

We could climb it with a helicopter, SPHP!

Across the gigantic canyon of the North Popo Agie River, both Bear Lake and another smaller lake were visible E of Lizard Head. An enormous ridge was beyond them, with many minor summits along it. Peak 12,539 was the highest point. Cathedral Peak (12,326 ft.) was somewhere way out toward the N end.

**Lizard Head** (L edge), **Bear Lake** (L), and **Peak 12539** (R). Photo looks N.

The North Popo Agie River canyon extended E more than 6 miles to a big bend where it curved NE. Mount Chevo (11,423 ft.) was in sight beyond the bend.

**Mount Chevo** (R of Center) beyond the **North Popo Agie River canyon**. Photo looks E.

12:41 PM – Mitchell Peak was calling! Lupe’s wonderful, precious hour on Dog Tooth Peak was drawing to a close. The American Dingo stood next to the summit cairn for the last time with the fabulous panorama to the S beyond her.

Hate to go, but are you ready, Loop?

As ready as I’ll ever be, SPHP. I wish it wasn’t over, but I feel blessed to have ever been here. Thanks for agreeing to come here first.

Dingo Fang is a splendid summit, Looper. Glad we came!

Me too, but the adventure continues, SPHP!

Indeed it did! A very cautious initial descent succeeded in getting past the tricky, assistance-required spot. Returning to the football field size plain, the Carolina Dog turned NW toward Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.).

Setting out for **Mitchell Peak** (far R). **Bunion Peak** (far L), **War Bonnet Peak** & **Warrior Peaks** (L), **Cirque of the Towers** (Center). Photo looks NW.

It was a slow go. Gradually losing elevation, Lupe leapt from boulder to boulder across an endless mountainside of big talus. Far ahead, a rock formation extending SW down from the ridge leading to Mitchell Peak appeared to present an insurmountable barrier.

See that gap toward the lower end of the long wall of rock, Looper? Head for it. Let’s try to get through there.

The cool SW wind had been strengthening all day. As the Carolina Dog finally reached the wall of rock, it roared 50 mph through the gap. A bit of scrambling was required to even get up to the gap, a task the gale made even more of a challenge.

Lupe made it, though. Soon she was standing in the wild wind on large, flat rocks N of the gap. Mitchell Peak was now directly ahead.

**Mitchell Peak** (Center) from near the gap. **Lizard Head Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

A short descent on more big talus got Lupe down to much easier terrain. Only scattered rocks were here on a sloping plain of low vegetation. The wind wasn’t nearly as bad, either. Staying well below the giant saddle way up along the ridge to the NE, Loop continued NW toward the slope SW of Mitchell’s cliffy summit block.

Approaching **Mitchell Peak**. Lupe aimed for that highest blip (L) on the W ridge. Photo looks NW.

The climb got steep pretty fast, but lanes of vegetation made it fairly easy for quite a long way. Eventually, Lupe had to scramble up some big talus again, but not too far. It was clear that being any farther E toward Mitchell’s summit block would have been much worse.

Above the largest talus, the route wasn’t quite as steep. Life got easier. Loopster was thrilled when she came to a couple of snowfields melting away in the July sun, but they were too soft to cross without post-holing. Going around them was a bit of a pain. 150 feet above the uppermost snowbank, Lupe reached a broad plain 300 or 400 feet E of a big knob of rock along Mitchell Peak’s upper W ridge.

High on **Mitchell Peak’s SW slope**. Photo looks NE.

On the upper W ridge. **War Bonnet Peak** (L), **Pylon Peak** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Covered with large, flat-lying rocks, and a fair amount of low vegetation, the plain sloped gradually down to the N toward sheer, unseen cliffs. To the E, it rose toward the summit.

Heading for the **summit**. Photo looks ENE.

The hard part was over! Sweeping around the N side of the summit block, Lupe went virtually unimpeded all the way to the top.

4:38 PM, 55ºF, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) – The wind was 25 mph, still out of the SW, when Lupe reached a summit region of massive boulders. A puny 3 rock cairn sat on the tremendous rock that supported the very highest one, which hung partly out into space toward the S.

**True summit** (Center), piddly cairn (R), **War Bonnet Peak** (far R). Photo looks SW.

On **Mitchell Peak’s true summit**. **East Temple Peak** (far L), **Temple Peak** (L), **Peak 11930** (Center). Photo looks S.

What can be said? The amazing 360º panorama from Mitchell Peak was in many ways similar to the one from Dog Tooth Peak only a mile SE. Even so, if anything, the views were even more superb here. One view in particular had made an ascent of Mitchell Peak a goal for years.

Oh, my gosh, Loopster! Look at that! The entire Cirque of the Towers!

Wow, this must be the best vantage point possible, SPHP! We’re looking down on all of them!

Yup, just by a little bit, though. The only thing that might be better would to be right on top of one of those towers so close to the rest.

I’d choose Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.), SPHP, it’s so cool looking.

An excellent choice, Looper! Wolfs Head (12,160 ft.) appears so narrow and sharp it would slice us in two.

No reason to worry about that. Neither Lupe nor SPHP would ever be on any of them. They were all there, though, Warrior Peaks (12,406 ft.), Pylon Peak (12,378 ft.), Block Tower (12,210 ft.), Sharks Nose (12,229 ft.) , Overhanging Tower (12,164 ft.), and Bollinger Peak (12,232 ft.).

The famous **Cirque of the Towers** (L) from Mitchell Peak. **Pingora Peak** (Center). Photo looks NW.

**Warrior Peaks** (L), **Cirque of the Towers** (Center), **Pingora Peak** (R). Photo looks WNW.

**Pylon Peak** (L), **Watch Tower** (L of Center), **Block Tower** and **Sharks Nose** (Center), **Overhanging Tower** (R of Center), **Pingora Peak** (far R) with **Wolfs Head** (slightly L), **Bollinger Peak** and **Mount Geikie** (R) beyond. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

While the Cirque of the Towers was spell-binding, there was so much else to see, too! Lizard Head Peak (12,842 ft.) was only 1.5 miles N. Lupe could see little Skunk Knob (11,099 ft.) SE of it, where she had once been years ago. E of Lizard Head was Peak 12539‘s giant ridge.

**Lizard Head Peak** (R), **Skunk Knob** (lower L). Photo looks NNW.

**Lizard Head Peak** (Center). Photo looks N.

**Peak 12539** (R of Center), **Lizard Head Peak** (far L). Photo looks NE.

Of course, the view of Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.) was spectacular with both Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) and Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) in the background.

**Dog Tooth Peak** (Center), **Big Sandy Mountain** (R) with **Wind River Peak** beyond. Photo looks SE.

**Dog Tooth Peak** (L), **Big Sandy Mountain** and **Wind River Peak** (Center), **East Temple Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.), Temple Peak (12,972 ft.), Peak 11930, and Schiestler Peak (11,640 ft.) were naturally all a little farther away now, but the angle was such from Mitchell Peak that more lakes were visible. In addition to Big Sandy Lake, all of Deep Lake was in sight. Most of Temple Lake was, too, but it was a little hard to distinguish still almost entirely covered in snow and ice. Part of Clear Lake, and a few others could be seen as well.

**Big Sandy Mountain** & **Wind River Peak** (far L), **East Temple Peak** (L), Temple Peak (Center), **Schiestler Peak** (R) with **Peak 11930** beyond. **Big Sandy Lake** (far R). Photo looks SSE.

**East Temple Peak** (L), **Temple Peak** (Center), **Schiestler Peak** (R) with **Peak 11930** beyond. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**East Temple Peak** (L) with **Deep Lake** below it. **Temple Peak** (R) with frozen **Temple Lake** below it. Part of **Clear Lake** (foreground). Photo looks SSE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Despite Mitchell Peak’s summit region consisting of a ridge of large talus, it was actually fairly easy to move around, with plenty of space to do so. After Lupe got up on the true summit, SPHP shook her paw, showering her with profuse praise and congratulations. What an incredible couple of big mountains she’d climbed today! A second and final celebratory chocolate coconut bar of the day was shared.

Surprisingly, no sign of a registry. Hadn’t been one on Dog Tooth, either. No registry wasn’t what mattered here, though. After searching around, only a couple of feet W of the little cairn, SPHP saw the white outline of a rectangle on the upper surface of the massive flat rock supporting the true summit boulder.

Oh, no! It’s gone, Loop! It must have been attached right there.

What’s gone, SPHP?

The plaque commemorating Finis Mitchell!

The Finis Mitchell that Mitchell Peak is named after, SPHP?

Precisely, Looper! Finis and his wife ran a fishing camp for many years near Mud Lake back down at Big Sandy Opening. He’d been all over the Wind River Range during his life, and wrote Wind River Trails, a guide book that seems quaint these days. At the end of the book is a photo of the plaque commemorating Finis’ 11 ascents of Mitchell Peak. I really wanted to get a photo of you standing next to that plaque, but we’re too late! It’s not here anymore!

The missing plaque was the only real disappointment of this epic, joyful day. For more than an hour, Lupe and SPHP sat together, or wandered, gazing at the magnificent Wind River Range scenes in all directions.

**Wind River Range** from **Mitchell Peak**. Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. **Skunk Knob** (Center) near bottom. **Texas Pass** (far R). Photo looks NW.

5:47 PM, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) – 4th of July! One to remember! SPHP didn’t realize it until much later upon seeing that photo of the Finis Mitchell plaque in Wind River Trails again, but this was sort of a coincidence, too. Finis Mitchell’s first ascent of Mitchell Peak had been on the 4th of July back in 1923.

99 years later to the day, Lupe also stood alone on Mitchell Peak for the first time in a stiff SW breeze next to the little cairn only a foot or two from where both Finis Mitchell and his plaque had once been.

99 years later on **Mitchell Peak**. Photo looks SW.

The inevitable sad moment of departure had arrived, as it always does. While Lupe lingered at the summit, SPHP started down first.

Final moments on the summit. Photo looks S.

SPHP called. Lupe came running, bounding down the boulders.

One more thing we need to do before we completely leave the mountain, Loopster.

Oh, and what’s that, SPHP?

We should have a look at Lonesome Lake. Couldn’t see it from the summit, and I’d like to see it again.

From up here? That would be awesome, SPHP!

Then follow me, Loop.

After heading NW through the talus, SPHP led Lupe down to the cliffs along Mitchell Peak’s N edge. Sure enough, Lonesome Lake was there, nestled at the base of Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.), partly in its shadow.

**Cirque of the Towers** (L), **Pingora Peak** (Center), **Lonesome Lake** (R). Photo looks NW.

Lonesome Lake is as beautiful as ever, SPHP!

Remember when we were down there, Looper? We’d already been to the Cirque of the Towers, discovered that really cool waterfall, then came down to Lonesome Lake on our way to Skunk Knob (11,099 ft.).

I remember it was a sunny day, SPHP. Sunlight was sparkling on the waves with Mitchell Peak soaring skyward past the lake. Seems like a long, long time ago now.

That’s right, Loop! And it has been a while. That was back in 2015.

The SW wind blew constantly during nearly the entire descent. Staying even a little farther W on the steep part below Mitchell Peak’s upper W ridge, Lupe was able to avoid nearly all the big talus she’d run into on the way up. Once down to the much easier terrain SW of the big saddle on the ridge between Mitchell and Dog Tooth, the Carolina Dog ran free, displaying great energy as she led the way, roaming and sniffing at will, while marmots whistled warnings of her approach.

Incredibly beautiful, the long descent was interesting and somewhat more complicated than SPHP expected. Lupe traveled S down slabs of bedrock past snowbanks, ledges, and a multitude of small streams.

The American Dingo was in the forest, almost all the way down to Dog Tooth Paradise when the wind finally quit. Not much farther now.

Near sunset, base camp at Dog Tooth Paradise – SPHP was tired, but Lupe was still animated, sniffing around a while before finally entering the tiny house.

Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) tomorrow, SPHP?

I’d love to, but afraid not, Loop. We’re completely out of food. I didn’t bring enough.

That wasn’t entirely true. A couple handfuls of peanuts remained. Not for long, though! Peanuts for dinner. Even Lupe ate them, and when the last one was gone, still running on empty, on the magnificent day she’d been to 2 splendid Wind River Range peaks, it was time for goodnight.