Days 7-9 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!
7-16-20, 1:40 PM, Hwy 20, Wind River Canyon – Middle of July. The day had started out cool enough back in the Absaroka Range this morning, but was a scorcher out on the Wyoming high desert now. Driving S, SPHP kept an eye on the tantalizing Wind River. Any number of scenic pullouts, but no access.
Finally, a gravel road appeared that did go down to the river. Turning off Hwy 20, SPHP drove partway down it. A pickup truck was parked here, the only other vehicle around.
Come on, Loop! Let’s go check out the river!
If you don’t mind, SPHP, think I’ll stay right here in the AC.
Sorry, not an option, Looper. As soon as I kill the engine, the AC will stop. You’ll roast on a day like this, even if I leave the windows open.
Reluctantly, Lupe leapt out of the G6 and followed SPHP the rest of the way down to the Wind River. Perfect! No rapids or fast water. A huge pool half the width of the river swirled in a big, slow eddy, the current along the near bank actually going upstream. The riverbed wasn’t rocky, and the water didn’t get deep until a little way out from shore.
One problem. Two people were fly fishing.
They each made a few more casts, then announced they were just about to leave, anyway. A few minutes later, they drove off.
Hah! Good thing I brought my lucky Dingo!
Swim if you want to, SPHP. I’ll just lay in the grass.
Suit yourself, Looper, but you really should wade in and cool off a bit first.
The Wind River was wonderful! Refreshingly cool, not cold. Egged on by SPHP, the Carolina Dog did spend a little time wading near the shore before relaxing on the bank. Up on Hwy 20, traffic roared by, but no one stopped. For an hour, SPHP swam, floated, drifted while gazing at the beige cliffs of the scenic canyon. Fabulous!
S of Riverside, the G6 read 96ºF. Entering Lander, SPHP drove straight to the city park at the S end of Third Street. Free overnight camping! Very popular! RV’s and tents everywhere. The Middle Popo Agie River was the lowest SPHP had ever seen it, but Lupe had a grand time. Lots of people, dogs, and squirrels around. So much activity!
As the sun went down, SPHP spread pillows, blankets, and sleeping bags out on the thick green lawn beneath the big cottonwood trees. Someone strummed a guitar and sang. The park didn’t get quiet until late. The American Dingo was shocked when she got to sleep out under the stars.
7-17-20, Lander City Park – Sleep? Hah! Dream on! Looper hadn’t done much of that. Every time SPHP woke up and peered into the darkness, Lupe had been laying on the grass, soft ears perked up listening to the night sounds, or sniffing and roaming among the tents nearby. Now, as SPHP caught up the trip journal, a tuckered-out Dingo spent the morning snoozing peacefully in the deep green grass.
This was supposed to be a positioning day for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) in the Wind River range, but there was plenty of time for that. In fact, when Lupe perked up, she had time to enjoy an early afternoon visit to Sinks Canyon State Park half a dozen miles SW of Lander on Hwy 131.
The last time Lupe had been to The Sinks, the Middle Popo Agie River had such tremendous flow that the river completely filled The Sinks, with substantial overflow to spare. With the river so low now, The Sinks was actually far more impressive. The entire Middle Popo Agie River simply disappeared into a mysterious underground cavern.
Conducting a closer inspection, Looper went right on down to the cavern entrance where the Middle Popo Agie River vanished.
Touring The Sinks didn’t take long. Returning to Lander, SPHP stopped for supplies. By 4:00 PM, Lupe was on her way out of town. Up at the SE end of the Wind River range it turned out that USFS Road No. 300, which went to Louis Lake and beyond, was closed for repairs all the way to Burnt Gulch until August 20th.
Where was Burnt Gulch? SPHP checked the map.
What does it say, SPHP?
As near as I can tell, Looper, it says Atlantic Peak isn’t happening, unless we want a longer hike, which we don’t. No access to the trailhead, even if we go all the way back to Lander and approach it from the other end of the loop.
So what now?
Plan B. East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).
S of the Wind River range, SPHP turned W off Hwy 28 onto the Lander Cutoff. 36 miles to the Big Sandy Openings! It was an exciting drive. Cattle, sheep, antelope stopped and stared in amazement, as a frenzied American Dingo sped past.
After 26 miles on the Lander Cutoff, a 3 way junction appeared. Here, a sign indicated that the Big Sandy campground was another 10 miles on the road going N. When Lupe arrived, the campground and trailhead parking lot were both full. Fortunately, overflow parking was available for the G6 only a little way back.
What remained of a beautiful evening was spent with a great view of Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) beyond the meandering Big Sandy River.
7-18-20, 9:10 AM, 68ºF, Big Sandy Opening, Wind River range – Loopster trudged along behind SPHP on the way to the trailhead. The American Dingo wasn’t as rambunctious and energetic as she had been just a little while ago.
While getting the backpack ready, SPHP had caught the crazy Carolina Dog digging frantically at a gopher hole, tearing great chunks of grass and dirt away with her fangs while enthusiastically clawing away at the entrance. Loop had swallowed and inhaled so much dirt that she was coughing and having trouble breathing when SPHP made her stop.
Loop was breathing OK, and wasn’t coughing now, but seemed dejected. Gorgeous day, though, and the trailhead was busy! This was the jump off point for Big Sandy Lake, Jackass Pass, and the enormously popular Cirque of the Towers, which Lupe had been to years ago. As Loopster approached the parking lot, a friendly old man stopped his vehicle to chat. He asked where she was headed, and his eyes lit up when SPHP said East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).
Somewhat surprised because everyone goes to the Cirque of the Towers, the stranger pronounced East Temple Peak a fantastic destination.
What route you taking?
Clear Lake and Deep Lake.
Camp at Deep Lake! Simply incredible! You won’t regret it.
With that advice, the old guy waved as he drove off.
Sounded like he knew what he was talking about, didn’t he, SPHP?
Sure did, Loop. Might have wound up there anyway, but shall we make Deep Lake our official goal for the day?
The American Dingo seemed happy enough with that notion, and was soon setting off on the Meeks Lake trail.
The Meeks Lake trail was wide, well-trodden, and easy going. Starting out in forest, Lupe was soon crossing a sunny meadow. Not a cloud in the sky! As the trail went on, the Big Sandy River was often in view off to the R (E).
0.6 mile from the trailhead, Lupe came to an intersection. The Meeks Lake trail veered off to the L, climbing into the trees, while Big Sandy trail No. 99 continued straight following the Big Sandy River.
The Big Sandy trail was the most direct route to Big Sandy Lake, which Lupe did need to get to. However, Big Sandy trail No. 99 was certain to be very busy on a Saturday in July. An alternate route existed that would eventually hook back into the Big Sandy trail.
Although perhaps a bit longer, this alternate route went past both V and Diamond Lakes, which Lupe had never seen before. Since it might be quieter, more scenic, and help break up the 6 mile march to Big Sandy Lake, Lupe stuck with the Meeks Lake trail, which was signed here as Continental Divide trail No. 96.
After gaining a little elevation, the Meeks Lake trail flattened out for a while. Looper enjoyed an easy stroll going N through the forest. She came to another rise after which the trail flattened out a second time. Lupe went by Meeks Lake, which wasn’t far from the trail off to the W (L), but didn’t even see it due to the trees.
0.6 mile from the first intersection, the Carolina Dog came to a second one. The Meeks Lake trail again angled off toward the L, but this time Lupe went R on the Diamond Lake trail.
Gradually gaining elevation, the Diamond Lake trail wound NE for 0.5 mile through the forest. As Loop started getting close to V Lake, the trail began going downhill. As soon as V Lake could be glimpsed through the trees, Lupe left the trail and went down to it.
V Lake was fairly large, but shallow. From the SW shore, Lupe had her first view of a number of peaks ahead. Nearly 6 miles off to the NE, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.), Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.), and Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) were all strung out along the same ridge.
Schiestler Peak (11,624 ft.) was somewhat closer and part of a different one. Much closer, a mere 1.5 miles due N of V Lake, Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) formed a giant ridge all by itself.
After sharing a piece of fried chicken at V Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Diamond Lake trail, which now headed NE along the W shore. The N end of V Lake proved to be a marshy region.
The mile long trek to Diamond Lake, about a mile NE of V Lake, was flat the entire way. Lupe crossed a large damp meadow before getting there, and several minor gravelly streams near the lake. Although Diamond Lake wasn’t as big as V Lake, it was quite pretty. Most of the shoreline was forested, but the trail did pass through a big meadow N of the lake.
Less than 0.25 mile past Diamond Lake, the Diamond Lake trail merged with Big Sandy trail No. 99 again. Only 2 miles to Big Sandy Lake now!
The Meeks and Diamond Lake trails had been a great alternate route! V and Diamond Lakes were beautiful, had provided mountain views not seen along the Big Sandy trail, and the terrain had been easy. Couldn’t have been much farther this way, either. Better yet, Lupe had enjoyed complete solitude the entire way on a day when Big Sandy trail No. 99 was overrun.
Big Sandy Lake was the largest lake Lupe would come to today. By the time she got there, it was already mid-afternoon. The heavy pack and new boots made SPHP eager for another break. Although she’d been breathing easily the entire way, the Carolina Dog still seemed somewhat subdued after the gopher hole stunt this morning. Loop was perfectly content to relax for a while near the S shore.
Deep Lake was still 3 miles away. Although getting around Big Sandy Lake would be easy, the trail would steepen once Lupe headed up to Clear Lake. Consequently, the rest break was shorter than either Lupe or SPHP would have liked. Nevertheless,
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Leaving the S end of Big Sandy Lake, the trail followed the W shore N for 0.5 mile. Both the solid rock ridge of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) and dramatic ship prow summit of East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) came into view along the way.
At the N end of Big Sandy Lake, Lupe came to another trail junction. Big Sandy trail No. 99 went N from here up to Jackass Pass and Lonesome Lake, but Lupe now left it, going E on Little Sandy trail No. 98 instead.
On her way around Big Sandy Lake, Lupe forded several streams. Lost Creek and North Creek were both small. Easy rock hops for SPHP. Black Joe Creek, the last stream Lupe came to, was considerably larger than the others. Fallen logs got SPHP across without wet feet. Hiking poles came in handy during this maneuver.
After crossing Black Joe Creek, the trail climbed a little way up a steep slope before dropping almost all the way back down again. Lupe was now leaving Big Sandy Lake behind, heading SE along the NE side of a big marshy meadow. She skipped a L turn onto Trail No. 116 which went to Black Joe Lake, and watched for a junction where Little Sandy trail No. 098 divided. She came to it before reaching the end of the meadow.
300 feet of elevation gain up to Clear Lake in a little over 0.5 mile. Little Sandy trail No. 98 gradually steepened as it wound through forest and over bedrock. Lupe and SPHP plodded along. Not a difficult trail at all, but the backpack felt heavier with every step. As the trail finally leveled out, the W end of Clear Lake came into sight along with a gorgeous view of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.).
SPHP couldn’t wait to shed the backpack.
Oh, Loopster! What do you think? Isn’t Clear Lake fabulous? I shouldn’t be, but I’m all worn out. Would you mind if we camp here tonight? Still another 1.5 miles up to Deep Lake, and I simply don’t feel like doing it.
Fine with me, SPHP, but aren’t you just delaying the inevitable? I thought you’d originally hoped to get way up to Temple Lake. It’ll be that much harder to get up East Temple Peak tomorrow if we stay here, won’t it?
Yeah, I know it, but at the moment, I don’t care. Ready to call it.
Alright then. As you wish! Certainly can’t fault this scenery! Let’s look around for a spot.
The SW end of Clear Lake looked attractive. Lupe and SPHP headed over that way, rock hopping Clear Lake’s outlet stream in the process. Not much soil around here, which explained why the forest was more open. A great deal of exposed bedrock provided rock solid camping spots, which didn’t hold much appeal since SPHP hadn’t brought any padding other than the sleeping bags.
Further exploration revealed tents already set up at a great spot with some soil. Eh, best to move on and let them enjoy their privacy.
Returning to Little Sandy trail No. 98, Lupe and SPHP continued E on the N side of Clear Lake. Along the way, Looper made several forays up into the forest N of the trail looking for campsites. She found some good ones, but they were all occupied.
Finally, after 3 or 4 tries, the Carolina Dog did find an unoccupied spot that would do. 50 feet higher up a steepish slope, and a good 200 feet N of the trail, was a small level patch of soft dirt amid a bouldery region featuring mostly dead trees. 15 feet to the E was a rock outcropping sporting an abandoned loose stone campfire ring. From here, Lupe had a partial view of Clear Lake and East Temple Peak beyond it.
7-18-20, 6:37 PM, campsite N of Clear Lake – Good enough! SPHP set up Loopster’s tiny house. As soon as the sleeping bags were spread out, she was eager to get inside. Time to eat and rest up for a big day tomorrow.
The last of the fried chicken disappeared. Satisfied and tired, both Lupe and SPHP welcomed the sandman long before Mother Nature turned out the light.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Clear Lake to the Summit (7-19-20)
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