Cascade Range – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

South Sister, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-26-21)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:40 AM, 41ºF, Cascade Lakes Highway, Dutchman Flats – Luck of the Dingo, a miracle! A minor one, anyway. Twice during the wee hours, there’d been rain. Not much. Only light rain for 20 minutes the second time, and that was the big deluge. Then pre-dawn, Orion had been gleaming near the E horizon.

And now? Mount Bachelor (9.065 ft.) stood against a sky containing only a trace of the thick smoke that had completely hidden it when Lupe arrived yesterday evening.

Wooo-hooo, Loopster! We are so extremely lucky! Gonna be alright! Thar she blows!

Fantastic news, SPHP! No trip to the coast today after all. But with a name like “Bachelor”, that mountain’s got to be a dude, not a she.

Hah! Bachelor isn’t what I’m talking about, Loop. Look over there! That’s why we’re here!

9 miles NW, capped by a wispy lenticular cloud, a massive volcano was in sight. Hadn’t been visible at all yesterday evening, but there she was.

Wow! That’s where we’re going, SPHP?

Yup. You’re in for a real slog today, Looper! Nearly 4,900 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles from Devils Lake. Most definitely a she-mountain, too! That’s South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

**South Sister** (R) from **Dutchman Flats**. Photo looks NW.

9:02 AM, 46ºF, Devils Lake trailhead – Surprisingly little activity, but lots of vehicles around. Over at the campground, people were stirring as Lupe set out on South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. Boardwalk bridges got her over a couple of streams in a flat region before reaching Cascade Lakes Highway.

Crossing the highway, the American Dingo began an incredible journey.

Start of **South Sister Climber Trail No. 36**.

Immediately N of the highway, the trail was flat as it ran along the W bank of a lovely stream. However, a steady climb N up a forested valley quickly commenced. The stream soon wandered farther E. Lupe went over to see it tumbling down mossy stones, and get a drink.

Returning to the trail, the climb resumed. The stream soon disappeared entirely, whether up a side drainage or simply underground, SPHP never really knew. Little to see here except trees, but the trail was in excellent condition, no obstacles at all, and super easy to follow.

As the Carolina Dog continued higher, the valley began to narrow. Half way up, just beyond the narrowest point, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 leveled out, becoming sandy as Lupe entered a clearing where the valley widened out again.

In the narrows. A small clearing is just around the next bend (L). Photo looks N.

The flat clearing was a welcome respite, but the march higher resumed as soon as Lupe got beyond it. Trail No. 36 began winding up steeper slopes than before, switchbacks helping to limit the rate of climb.

Big rock formations eventually appeared off to the E. After getting fairly close to them, the trail turned NW. Looper had already gained a bunch of elevation. Encouragingly, it was beginning to look like she was about to climb out of the upper end of the valley.

Past the clearing, winding higher. Photo looks SSE.

Near the rock formations. Photo looks E.

Close to climbing out the N end of the valley? Photo looks N.

After reaching the NW side of the valley, the trail switchbacked NE. Soon it became clear that the American Dingo really was about to escape the valley! The trail turned N. From the top of a little rise, a magnificent sight – South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

Directly ahead, the trail sloped gently down to a junction.

Out of the valley, with **South Sister** in sight! Photo looks N.

At the junction, Phase 1 of Lupe’s journey to South Sister, the 1.5 mile long trek up the long valley, was complete. The route she needed to take from here was completely obvious, just keep heading N for South Sister. Trail No. 17.1 offered other possible choices, either NE down to Moraine Lake, or W for parts unknown.

At the junction with Trail No. 17.1. Lupe had come up from the L. Photo looks WSW.

Continuing N from the junction, Phase 2 of Lupe’s South Sister journey began. This was by far the easiest section of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. A broad path wound through low hills of gritty volcanic soil that supported only scant vegetation other than scattered stands of pines. Elevation gain was minimal. In many places, the trail was nearly flat. The Carolina Dog even came to short downhill sections, although they didn’t amount to much.

As the pines became scarcer, the increasingly open views became more deserty. In her fur coat, Lupe got hot, and often wanted to enjoy a shady rest whenever the trail got close to the trees. It was all extremely scenic, with South Sister nearly always looming ahead. The jagged peaks of Broken Top (9,175 ft.) were also often in view off to the NE.

Continuing N from the junction. Photo looks N.

An early view of **Broken Top**. Photo looks NE.

A bit closer. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Progress was fast and easy, with only the short water and rest breaks to cool off in the shade slowing things down. As Loopster rapidly closed the remaining gap to the base of the mountain, South Sister looked more and more daunting based on sheer size alone. At one point, the Carolina Dog passed another trail on the R that came up from Moraine Lake.

Continuing toward **South Sister.** Photo looks N.

By the trail that came up from Moraine Lake. Photo looks E.

Passing along the edge of a few small hills. **South Sister** (L of Center). Photo looks N.

Looking back. **Devils Hill (7,080 ft.)** (L). Photo looks S.

For quite a long way, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 stayed near the E edge of the huge flat ridge Lupe was traveling N. Sometimes she enjoyed views down into the canyon to the E. From a few spots, it was possible to catch a glimpse of Moraine Lake. Hard to think about that, though, when South Sister was getting closer with every step. The mountain drew the eye like a magnet.

**South Sister** (L of Center). **Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.)** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

**Summit region**. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Another glance over at **Broken Top** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The trail eventually began drifting NW, away from the canyon which it was now essentially past. South Sister’s summit region vanished from view, hidden by the mountain’s lower slopes. Phase 3 was beginning, start of the ascent.

How much higher do we have to go, SPHP?

About 3,500 feet, Loop, over 2 miles.

Sounded like a lot. Only 1,400 feet gained so far? Felt like it had been a long march already.

The trail began climbing again. Slowly at first, but more steeply as Lupe went on.

For a while, trees were fairly numerous. No. 36 even wound through short stretches of forest. Higher up, trees were scarcer. The trail ran N some distance W of a rocky ridge capped by a line of cliffs. This ridge was considerably higher, but Lupe was gaining on it.

Below the cliffs (R) of the ridge to the E. Photo looks NE.

The ground was mostly gritty, loose soil. No doubt volcanic. Good-sized rocks were part of the mix, but the terrain wasn’t super rocky.

So far, Lupe had seen only a few people, a large group way back at the very start, and a couple near the upper end of the long valley that had camped at Moraine Lake last night. However, as the trail steepened, Lupe began meeting more and more people on their way down.

Those who had made it to the summit had been disappointed. The top of the mountain had been shrouded in fog. No views at all.

The sky over South Sister was a beautiful, deep blue now, though. Seemed like a perfect day!

Hah! Looks like the late Dingo is going to get the worm this time, Loop!

Worm! I’ll have you know, I’m not climbing this beast for worms, SPHP! This monster ought to merit several chocolate coconut bars.

Oh, my gosh, Looper! I forgot to bring any! I do have Taste of the Wild for you. Sorry, but that’s gonna be it.

No chocolate coconut bars? Didn’t seem right at all. Taste of the Wild was nutritious, but like cake minus icing. Chocolate coconut icing to be precise! Nothing to be done about it. A miffed Dingo trudged onward, trying to make the best of it. SPHP plodded along behind.

The mountain was getting steep. Looking back during SPHP’s breathers, Loop could see Devils Hill (7,080 ft.) and Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.). She was also seeing evidence that this day might not be so perfect after all. Miles away, a wall of smoke or fog was now visible to the S and W.

**Mount Bachelor** (L), **Devils Hill** (R of Center) beyond **Moraine Lake**. The flat ridge that South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 runs along is at far R. Photo looks SSE.

A light breeze was blowing out of the SW. Not good. SPHP kept an eye on the situation. Trouble seemed to be approaching, but quite slowly.

The approaching bank of fog and/or smoke. Photo looks W.

C’mon, Looper! Let’s keep moving as much as possible. Afraid your Luck of the Dingo might run out on us.

Fine, SPHP, but I don’t think I’m the holdup here!

A line of trees stood along the upper rim of a really steep slope. Despite the urgency of some need for speed, SPHP only managed to plod along at a snail’s pace. Near the top, loose soil gave way to a series of small, solid rock ledges. Once up to where the trees were, a gray hill was visible off to the NE.

On the steep slope leading up to the line of trees. Photo looks N.

That hill was Nipple Point (8,600 ft.). The trail looped clear around the E side of it before turning NW.

**Nipple Point** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Circling around Nipple Point (not shown). Photo looks E.

On the back side, NE of **Nipple Point** (Center) now. Photo looks SW.

Beyond Nipple Point, the trail ascended a long slope of very loose gray scree. At the top of this climb, Lupe reached a saddle SW of a big hill. An awesome sight was ahead!

Still 1,500 feet higher, South Sister’s rust red dome towered beautifully above what remains of the Lewis Glacier, a turquoise meltwater pond nestled below it.

On the gray scree slope above Nipple Point. Photo looks NW.

**South Sister** and the **Lewis Glacier**. **Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.)** far R. Photo looks N.

To the NW, quite a few hikers were visible coming down along the edge of a colorful ridge of pumice overlooking the glacier and turquoise tarn. Several more were relaxing right here at the saddle. Still more than 150 feet higher, Lewis Glacier Peak (9,017 ft.) was immediately NE.

South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 proceeds up the ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.

**Hodge Crest** (L) and **Lewis Glacier Peak** (R). Photo looks NNE.

A rest break was taken at the saddle. However, the American Dingo couldn’t linger long. The wall of smoke or fog approaching from the SW suddenly seemed much closer now. Clouds were increasingly starting to hang around the top of South Sister before sailing off to the NE. As soon as SPHP could summon the energy to do so, Lupe resumed her ascent.

Early on, Lupe passed a line of boulders strung out along the crest of the ridge. Beyond the boulders, she eventually worked high enough to gaze down on the Lewis Glacier slowly, inexorably, melting away in the sun.

The scenery was fantastic! Even the ground was fascinating. Loopster climbed through distinct zones of red, yellow, grey, and black volcanic soils. Meanwhile, although skies were often still blue over South Sister, the wall of smoke and fog was steadily closing in. A procession of hikers was coming down the mountain. SPHP wondered where they had all started from this morning?

Seeking shade. **Broken Top** (R) and **Lewis Glacier Peak** (far R). Photo looks ESE.

Near the **Lewis Glacier**. **South Sister** (L), **Hodge Crest** (R). Photo looks N.

Toe of the Lewis Glacier. Photo looks NE.

**Broken Top** (far L), **Lewis Glacier Peak** (L), **the saddle** (beyond Lupe), **Mount Bachelor** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Colorful soils along the edge. Photo looks N.

The weary trudge higher went on and on. Can’t stop! Not for more than a moment or two to gasp for air. The top of the mountain seemed to get closer only at a snail’s pace. People streamed by. Everyone was heading down. They were all in great spirits! These climbers had been at the top when the sky was blue and the views were incredible.

Whether or not Lupe could get up there in time to enjoy those views still hung in the balance.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Making progress as time runs out. **Broken Top** (far L), **Lewis Glacier Peak** (R), **Mount Bachelor** (far R). Photo looks SE.

The approaching wall of smoke and fog. Photo looks SW.

Still hope! Blue skies over **South Sister**. Photo looks N.

Angling NW, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 left the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier. Steep, although perhaps not quite as steep as before. Loopster met the last few stragglers coming down the mountain. At last, it finally started to look like the top couldn’t be much farther!

Heh. Farther than it looked. Lupe kept climbing. She seemed to be only a few hundred feet from the top, yet more mountain kept appearing.

Doomed! The wall of fog arrived, and the world disappeared.

2:55 PM, 52ºF, South Sister (10,358 ft.), S rim – Borne on a breeze now 10 mph out of the SW, fog streamed by as the rate of climb diminished. Near the end, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 turned NNE. Fortunately, the fog was intermittent. As Lupe crossed a plain of red cinders, a small ridge of wild-looking rock was ahead. Reaching it half an hour after the fog first hit, the American Dingo passed a small cairn.

Two people remained here, standing in a gray gloom along the edge of an enchanting, vaguely threatening, prehistoric scene revealed partially and only momentarily during sudden breaks in the cloud. They waved, but said nothing. SPHP waved back, then went with Lupe off to the W to take shelter from the rising wind among rocks of the volcanic ridge.

The ridge was higher toward the NW. Between here and there, a cool fog streamed almost constantly out of the SW through a sizable gap. Despite the fog, Lupe could usually see at least part of an enormous crater before her. A glacier within sloped down from the W, meltwater trickling from its toe gathering in small pools below.

Every now and then, fog quit coming through the gap. Then suddenly, the Carolina Dog would be in brilliant sunshine as the crater began to clear. Patches of blue sky, and much more of the crater were revealed. Occasionally, the true summit could be seen almost directly opposite Lupe’s position way over along the NE rim.

Along the **S rim of the South Sister crater**. Photo looks NE.

Upper reaches of the glacier along the **W rim**. Photo looks NNW.

Most of the time, though, fog hid everything that wasn’t close. For nearly an hour, Lupe spent most of her time curled up on SPHP’s lap, watching fog stream through the gap. South Sister’s crater felt primeval, wild and cold, like a hidden frozen piece of the world’s ancient dangerous past.

A few latecomers arrived shortly after Lupe did. None stayed long, or ventured over toward the true summit, although one couple vanished into the fog off to the E for a little while. Most stayed only a few minutes before turning around and heading back down. One woman reacted with shock and dismay. The entire crater used to be filled with snow and ice! Even though Lupe and SPHP were amazed, what remained was evidently pitiful in comparison to what had once been.

Actually, I’m shocked, too, Loop. Never expected this!

Why not, SPHP? South Sister is a volcano! You said so yourself. What were you expecting?

Yeah, I know. Just never really thought about it, Loopster. Since South Sister looks like a big red dome from a distance, I assumed the whole thing would be like that. A gentle stroll to a vast, featureless, rounded summit.

Glad it isn’t, SPHP! A real volcanic crater with a glacier! Way better!

If anything, the weather seemed to be deteriorating. The wind blew harder, more and more fog streamed by. Fewer, shorter, brief episodes of sunshine. SPHP began to worry. South Sister was losing the battle with the fog. Finally, though, a break came. Suddenly, almost the entire crater cleared. Another rare moment when South Sister’s true summit was in view again!

C’mon, Loop! Now’s our chance!

Partially revived by the long rest, Loopster leapt to her paws and began following a well-worn use trail counter-clockwise around the crater.

Heading for **South Sister’s true summit** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Along the E rim, conditions varied wildly. A gentle breeze beneath blue skies one moment, 30 seconds later, a cold, gray gale. Pausing to brace against the wind, Lupe surged forward whenever it let up.

Along the **lower E end of the crater**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching the **NE rim** beneath temporarily blue skies. Photo looks NNW.

**South Sister crater glacier**. Photo looks W.

Near the true summit, the ridgeline was dominated by wild, jagged rock. Well below the top, Lupe picked her way through a geological jumble utilizing a maze of use trails. Once through the worst of it, she climbed to a bench only slightly below the highest rocks, discovering a survey benchmark with an arrow.

Near the true summit. **Survey benchmark** (lower L). Photo looks WNW.

The true summit was a short, narrow ridge with steep drops along both sides. A knob at the S end was the absolute high point. Lupe couldn’t quite get to it, and wouldn’t have had room enough to sit up there, even if she could have reached it, but she did scramble up onto rocks only marginally lower 10 feet away.

4:07 PM, 38ºF, South Sister, true summit – Fog streamed past. Now 20 mph, the wind was cold. Alone in a gray world, way up at the top of mighty South Sister, Lupe stood like a champion, waiting for the next break that SPHP hoped and promised would soon arrive.

It did. Not totally, or for long, but a partially blue sky did reappear. SPHP quickly took the shot. Close enough for Dingo work!

Moment of glory on **South Sister.** Photo looks SE.

Descending, Lupe lingered near the true summit only 5 or 10 minutes longer. Conditions weren’t all that pleasant, and fog soon returned.

Final moments in the **true summit region**.

Lupe was halfway back to the S rim when the situation suddenly took a turn for the worse. Dense fog swept in on a frigid 30 mph gale. Even the trail vanished from view. Whiteout! Must stop.

This is terrible, SPHP! We’ve over-stayed our welcome! Keep going!

Can’t! Can’t see a thing! Stay close, Loop, or you’ll get lost!

Was a storm moving in? The ferocity of the attack was numbing. Lupe huddled at SPHP’s feet. Hands were freezing. Seemed interminable, but couldn’t have been more than a few minutes. The worst was over. Still in the fog, but suddenly the trail reappeared.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Along the **S rim** again. Photo looks W.

4:33 PM, South Sister, S rim – An hour and 38 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again by the little cairn marking where South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 reached the S rim. Something had changed when that ferocious blast went through. The air was colder. No more glimpses of blue sky, or even of South Sister’s crater. Lupe would never see it again.

A long way back. Definitely time to go. A last glance N into the fog where the crater should have been, and Loop started down.

By the small cairn (R) where Climber Trail No. 36 reaches the S rim. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was great! So much easier going down! Lupe trotted along a path of loose, red cinder in an otherwise gray world. Losing hundreds of feet of elevation, she was already getting close to where the trail reached the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier before she escaped the cloud and could see again.

The **Lewis Glacier** (R), appears as Lupe descends from the cloud. Photo looks SSE.

Exhausted, yet the evening return was amazing and fun! South Sister’s summit never did escape the cloud again, but beauty was all around. Incredibly, Lupe had it all to herself, seeing no one at all. The evening gloam was well advanced by the time Carolina Dog reached the deserted trailhead near Devils Lake. (8:09 PM, 57ºF)

Alright, SPHP! We did it! Can please I have a chocolate coconut bar now?

**South Sister,** Cascade Range, Oregon 8-26-21

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GPS Track by Ben Sidhom (10-13-18)

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Lookout Mountain, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-25-21)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Mid-morning, Hwy 35, 40+ miles S of Hood River –

There’s a campground sign, SPHP!

Sherwood! Good eye, Loop! Should be a L turn coming up pretty soon.

The turn onto USFS Road No. 44 came 1.5 miles S of the campground. No. 44 was a good road, paved even, as it climbed steeply NNE. The road snaked around some before the rate of ascent began to abate. After 3.5 miles, No. 44 topped out on a broad ridge. The RAV4 was heading SE when a side road appeared on the R.

No. 4410, that’s what we want, Looper!

Start of USFS Road No. 4410 where it leaves No. 44. Photo looks SSW.

USFS Road No. 4410 was decent, too. Not paved, but good, firm gravel. Climbing all the way, but not as steeply as No. 44 had, No. 4410 headed S. A few potholes and some washboardy sections, but any vehicle could do this. Most of the route was forested, but after 4.5 miles, No. 4410 came to a line of boulders in front of a field.

Hmm. This might be it, Loop. Maybe we ought to look for a trail?

Unmarked, a lesser road ran E/W in front of the boulders. Turning E (L), SPHP drove 200 feet to the edge of the trees, discovering a small parking area big enough for 2 or 3 vehicles on the L. SPHP parked the RAV4, and Lupe returned to the field.

Parked at a pullout along USFS Road No. 4420. Photo looks N.

The field at the S end of USFS Road No. 4410. Photo looks SE.

No signs. No trail heading across the field.

Huh. Lookout Mountain (6,525 ft.) is less than a mile SE, Loopster. Easy terrain! Guess we can try just heading SE into the forest, if we want to, but let’s walk farther E along the road first. I think there’s supposed to be an actual High Prairie trailhead somewhere around here.

600 feet E of the RAV4, there was a trailhead! Vacant at the moment, but parking for a good dozen vehicles. Posted information included a trail map. There was even an outhouse.

10:02 AM, High Prairie trailhead – On the S side of the road (USFS Road No. 4420), directly across from the trailhead, High Prairie Trail No. 493 took off bound for Lookout Mountain as a wide, smooth, apparently well-traveled path.

Start of High Prairie Trail No. 493. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe had barely gotten started, when the trail divided. The wide path went straight ahead, crossing a meadow. A less-frequented single track trail angled off toward the forest to the SW. Sticking with the wide path, Lupe followed it S a little way before it began trending SE.

At the nearly instantaneous divide. Photo looks SSW.

The E half of the Trail No. 493 loop sometimes went through forest, but Lupe enjoyed long stretches of meadow, too. Even SPHP was making great progress, since the trail gained elevation quite slowly.

After the last meadow, the rate of ascent increased as High Prairie Trail No. 493 turned SW, re-entering the forest. Lupe eventually emerged at a clearing of sparsely-vegetated red dirt. No. 493 curved sharply E here. SPHP noticed a path continuing SW from this turn, likely connecting to the less-traveled W half of the loop.

Beyond the red dirt curve, Loopster traveled through a long stretch of forest. She got all the way to the E end of the mountain, where a smoky view of a huge expanse of much lower territory was on display in that direction.

High Prairie Trail No. 493 reversed direction again. Still in the forest, Lupe was climbing faster now as she followed the trail SW. She didn’t have all that far to go this time, though, before the trail exited the forest at a saddle where a small hill was immediately to the W. Two weathered wooden signs were attached to a post.

The gist of it all was that Lupe had reached a junction with Trail No. 458, which went either E or W from here.

Approaching the small hill. The junction with Trail No. 458 (L) is just around the next bend. Photo looks W.

At the junction with Trail No. 458. Photo looks WSW.

Trail No. 458 went either E to Fret Creek Trail No. 456, or W to Gumjuwac Trail No. 480.

The other choice, of course, was back to the E half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop, which Lupe had just come up.

By now, Lupe was already very close to the top of Lookout Mountain, which was just E of the saddle. Taking Trail No. 458 E, the Carolina Dog ventured out onto an open slope dotted with gnarled, windswept trees, many of which were dead. The first part of this short climb was the only steepish part of the entire ascent.

Curling up Lookout Mountain’s upper S slope, Trail No. 458 ultimately reached the summit from the E.

Trail No. 458 along **Lookout Mountain’s upper S slope**. Photo looks ESE.

Near the top. Trail No. 458 goes up at far R. Photo looks N.

10:49 AM, 65ºF, Lookout Mountain (6,525 ft.) – Crumbling remnants of an old lookout’s foundation greeted Lupe as she arrived up on a barren plateau. The E end of Lookout Mountain’s summit region was higher and larger than the W end, which narrowed as it slanted down a bit.

Would have been a clear day, if not for the smoke of distant wildfires permeating the air in all directions. Panoramic views to the S and E were badly marred by the haze, but maybe that didn’t matter so much, since all the territory off that way was much lower.

**Lookout Mountain summit**. Photo looks SSW.

*Another mountain climbed! Maybe I’ll get a chocolate coconut bar?*

At the **true summit**. Photo looks ENE.

Not as smoky to the N or W, but a line of trees obscured the views to the N. Somewhat smokier to the SW, but not too bad. The views were more interesting in that direction, too, because the mountains were higher. Not as high as Lookout Mountain, but higher than the lowlands S and E.

From some rock formations along the S edge of the summit region, Lupe could see Badger Lake tucked down between Badger Butte (5,981 ft.), Gunsight Butte (5,916 ft.), and a few other nearby peaks, but the little lake wasn’t too impressive. Looked like a pond from here.

**Badger Butte** (L) and **Gunsight Butte** (R) with **Badger Lake** between them. Photo looks SW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. **Badger Butte** (far L), **Badger Lake** (L), and **Gunsight Butte** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

Yes, yes! But none of that matters, SPHP! What about the real reason for coming to Lookout Mountain?

I was getting to that, Loopster.

Taking your sweet time about it, SPHP!

Sometimes it’s good to save the best for last, Loop.

Well, there’s some real icing on this cake, SPHP! Time for dessert. If this view of Mount Hood (11,239 ft.) isn’t impressive, I don’t know what is!

Ahh, yes! Off to the WNW, only slightly marred by smoke, was a grand view of Oregon’s state high point, the mighty volcano, Mount Hood!

**Mount Hood** (R) from **Lookout Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

*Magnificent!* **Mount Hood** with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP congratulated the Carolina Dog on her successful ascent, shaking her paw, and splitting a chocolate coconut bar with her. A chipmunk provided entertainment as it scrambled on rock formations along the S rim of the summit. Lupe scrambled up to a neat vantage point, too.

Dingo on the rocks! **Badger Butte** (R), **Badger Lake** (far R). Photo looks S.

**Mount Hood** from a bit down the S slope. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone on the way to Lookout Mountain, and no one had been here when she arrived at the summit. However, company soon appeared. After that, a steady stream of people and dogs came and went. Nothing major, but Loop never had the summit to herself again.

40 minutes after arriving, with half a dozen people up here, and a long way to go today, SPHP called it good. Lupe left Lookout Mountain, but this wasn’t quite the last she’d see of that dazzling view of Mount Hood.

Heading down trail No. 458. Photo looks WNW.

Might as well do the W end of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop! Much of it ran along the W side of Lookout Mountain where SPHP expected Lupe might have a fabulous view of Mount Hood most of the way back.

At the saddle trail junction near the little hill just W of the summit, Lupe stuck with Trail No. 458, continuing W. This gave her the opportunity to climb the little hill, where she could gaze back at Lookout Mountain.

Heading W on Trail No. 458. Photo looks SW.

**Lookout Mountain** (L) from the little hill W of the saddle. Photo looks E.

Traveling along a fairly flat ridge, Trail No. 458 got Lupe out to the W edge of Lookout Mountain. No sign of the expected junction with the W half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop. A path that looked promising as it started N completely faded away, and couldn’t have been it.

No matter, it had been worth coming this way! A small rock formation along the W edge provided a terrific view of Mount Hood.

From here, Trail No. 458 curved S and started steeply downhill, which didn’t seem promising at all given the lay of the land. If SPHP had only checked the topo map, that actually was the way to go. Lupe wasn’t far from the junction with No. 493.

But SPHP didn’t look at the map. After admiring the exquisite view of Mount Hood, the American Dingo retreated back E along Trail No. 458 to the junction with the E half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop, then started down the way she’d come up.

At the red dirt bend, Loopster made another attempt to find the W half of the Trail No. 493 loop. The side trail going SW that SPHP had spotted earlier on led almost immediately right to it.

As expected, the W half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop followed the W edge of the mountain. However, anticipated glorious views of Mount Hood along this route did not materialize. For what seemed like a long way, Lupe trotted NW through dense forest.

Heading down the W half of High Prairie Loop Trail No. 493. Photo looks NW.

The trail went NW so far, and lost so much elevation, that SPHP began to worry that a turn had been missed. However, a sign close to where the trail finally turned NE confirmed that Lupe was still on track. Going NE, the trail was nearly level, and soon left the forest.

Lupe never did make it back to the official High Prairie trailhead. While crossing a sunny clearing, SPHP spotted the RAV4. Abandoning the trail, the Carolina Dog went N right to it. (12:33 PM, 67ºF)

Although the fantastic view of Mount Hood had without a doubt been the highlight of Lupe’s visit to Lookout Mountain, it hadn’t really been the only view of importance. All the smoke visible to the S had been a real concern, since the plan was to head that way, climbing more peaks along the spine of the Cascades.

As SPHP drove S, precisely as Lupe had seen from Lookout Mountain, Oregon was full of smoke. By evening, Loopster was W of Bend, way up where she should have had a great view of Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.). No sign of it. The smoke was terrible!

However, for the first time in days, the wind shifted from out of the SW to NW. Before sunset, a hazy outline of Mount Bachelor did appear.

**Mount Bachelor** shortly before sunset. Photo looks SW.

I don’t know, Loopster. Going to have to get a lot better than this to make climbing any mountains around here worthwhile. We’ll just have to see how things look in the morning.

If the smoke is still this bad, what will we do, SPHP?

Guess, we’ll just have to continue this Dingo Vacation’s never-ending quest for blue skies. Might have to head for the coast!

A stroll along the famous Oregon coast? That actually sounds wonderful, SPHP!

Yes, it does, Loop. But we’ll get to the coast eventually in any case, and it would be a real shame to miss out on this next mountain.

Maybe so, but despite the smoke, Lupe hadn’t missed out today. Not when she’d gotten to enjoy that splendid view of Mount Hood from Lookout Mountain!

**Mount Hood** from **Lookout Mountain**, Cascade Range, Oregon 8-25-21

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GPS Track by Daniel Mick (9-4-16)

Multnomah Falls, Devils Rest & Angels Rest, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-24-21)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8:54 AM, 64ºF, Columbia River Gorge, Multnomah Falls –

My, how times have changed, Looper! Just act natural, and keep going.

The guy insisting that reservations are required to see Multnomah Falls looked right at SPHP as Lupe sauntered on by, but said nothing. So far, so good. The Carolina Dog trotted through the underpass and emerged a short distance from the Multnomah Falls Lodge restaurant.

Sure enough, a lady at a booth out front was checking reservations. None needed to visit the restaurant or gift shop, but definitely required to see the falls. Only $1.00, and reservations can be made online.

We’re not from around here, and my American Dingo has come a long way to see Multnomah Falls. Didn’t know reservations were required, and I don’t have a smart phone. What can we do?

The lady was cool. No problem! Lupe could go right on ahead. This whole reservation deal is a pilot program new this year to help reduce crowding at the falls. Reservation requirements won’t be made official until 2022, after this year’s results have been taken into consideration.

She didn’t even ask for the $1.00.

Luck of the Dingo, we’re in! Good job, Looper!

Never realized before what a smooth talker you are, SPHP!

Mark it on your calendar, Loop. A historical first.

In like Flynn outside the Multnomah Falls Lodge, restaurant, and gift shop!

The big daily rush was just beginning. People were arriving in droves.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s have a look at Multnomah Falls before the crowd gets totally insane.

Spectacular, double-decker Multnomah Falls was only a short walk from the restaurant. SPHP had a quick look at a display, then Lupe went to see the second highest year-round waterfall in the United States.

Oh, we’ve been here before, SPHP! With Lanis in 2012!

That’s right, Loop! Worth another look, don’t you think?

Certainly is! Multnomah Falls is awesome! Didn’t we go up above the falls, though, with Lanis?

Sure did! We will again as soon as we’re done admiring the falls from down here. We’ll be going a lot farther this time, too. All the way to both Devils Rest (2,400 ft.) and Angels Rest (1,600 ft.).

A short paved trail led up to a bridge over the lower falls that was closer to the more spectacular upper falls. Before heading up there, Lupe had a good look at the 69 foot tall lower falls.

A better look at the bridge above the lower falls.

The lower falls alone were impressive, but at 543 feet tall, the upper falls were nearly an incredible 8 times as high! Lupe started up the trail.

The bridge was already so busy, that it was hard to get a turn on it. Lupe waited and waited, but it was soon evident that a chance to linger on the bridge just wasn’t going to happen. When an opportunity came to dash across, Loop went for it. SPHP paused only for a couple of quick photos.

Waiting for a chance to get a Lupe photo on the bridge. Didn’t happen.

Once across the bridge, the trail wasn’t quite so busy. After a good look at the stupendous upper falls from near the bridge, the American Dingo was eager to continue. The paved trail made 11 long switchbacks on the way up a steep forested slope. However, this wasn’t difficult, since the trail itself wasn’t all that steep.

Every now and then, there were fabulous views of the Columbia River. At one point Loopster could see both Hamilton Mountain (2,438 ft.) and Beacon Rock (840 ft.) on the Washington side of the river.

Across the bridge, ready to head to the top of Multnomah Falls.

**Columbia River** (R) and **Benson Lake** (L). Photo looks WNW.

**Hamilton Mountain** (L) and **Beacon Rock** (R) across the **Columbia River**. Photo looks NE (upstream) with help from the telephoto lens.

After gaining nearly 750 feet of elevation, the trail went over a small ridge and started down. Almost immediately, Lupe came to a junction where there was a posted map. The Multnomah Falls overlook was at the end of a short spur trail to the R. On the way to it, Looper helped herself to a drink from Multnomah Creek.

Map posted at the junction with the Multnomah Falls overlook spur.

Returning to the spur trail, a set of stone stairs brought Lupe down to a round platform virtually on the brink of the upper falls. This platform also provided another great view of the Columbia River.

The stone stairway leading down to the upper falls overlook.

Should have leaned the camera out farther!

The upstream view, another little waterfall right before the big plunge.

**Columbia River** from the **top of Multnomah Falls**. Photo looks WNW.

The viewing platform was small, room for only a couple of people at a time at the best spot. With lots of people coming and going, Lupe and SPHP were just in the way after taking a turn. Better move on. Leaving the overlook, Lupe returned to the main trail.

Which way now, SPHP? Up the Multnomah Creek canyon, or back down the switchbacks?

Up the canyon, Loop!

Taking Larch Mountain Trail No. 441 upstream, Lupe soon came to a stone bridge over Multnomah Creek. No longer paved, the trail then wound up the beautiful canyon passing a series of waterfalls. At one point, it went under a massive, but odd, solid rock ledge. Very scenic!

Approaching the odd overhanging ledge (R).

Trail No. 441 wasn’t crowded, but a surprising number of people were on it. Justifiably so, too! The canyon was full of lovely spots.

The last waterfall Lupe came to was the most impressive. Definitely worth a closer look! The Carolina Dog left the trail to check it out.

Scrambling over some big driftwood, the Carolina Dog got right down next to the pool immediately below the falls. Amazing! Couldn’t have done that at Multnomah Falls! This was a much more private spot, too.

Right next to the pool below the falls. Fabulous!

Too bad we didn’t come this far with Lanis, SPHP! He would have loved it!

Yeah, this is incredible, Loop! Didn’t realize all these additional waterfalls were up here.

Above this grandest waterfall of the canyon, Larch Mountain Trail No. 441 climbed further up the W side of the canyon, still going upstream. Larch Mountain (4,055 ft.) was miles ahead, but that wasn’t where Lupe was going. SPHP began looking for Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

However, the junction didn’t appear for a while. By the time Lupe came to it, another bridge over Multnomah Creek was visible farther up the canyon. Loop never got that far, taking No. 420 instead.

Signage and map at the junction with Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

Wahkeena Trail No. 420 started out doubling back to the NW, climbing gradually along the steep mountainside above the Multnomah Creek canyon. Lupe passed through a large region of burnt forest. Glimpses of the Columbia River eventually appeared once the trail curved SW.

Lush undergrowth prospering below the burnt forest often prevented Lupe from getting to enjoy these views.

Passing a small stand of pink fireweed past its prime.

Long sections of the trail were flat, which made for rapid progress. That changed once Lupe came to a junction with Devils Rest Trail No. 420C.

I presume we’re on our way to Devils Rest now, right, SPHP?

Yup!

Junction of Wahkeena Trail No. 420 (L) and Devils Rest Trail No. 420C (R). Photo looks E.

Devils Rest Trail No. 420C immediately began switchbacking up a steep slope. Despite the switchbacks, the trail climbed quite aggressively as Lupe journeyed through a green tunnel of exotic botanical specimens. Ferns, plants with giant leaves, and clusters of red and orange berries were all part of such a luxurious display that at times SPHP couldn’t even see the trail.

Beautiful! SPHP didn’t dare taste any, though.

Or any of these, either. Most berries of this type were bright orange.

Lupe had seen several hikers on Wahkeena Trail No. 420, but only one appeared on Devils Rest Trail No. 420C. A girl, also heading up, passed SPHP on the switchbacks. After gaining hundreds of feet of elevation, the rate of climb diminished.

As the trail began leveling out, lively caterpillars that looked like Woolly Bears, but were bright yellow, inched as rapidly as possible across the path. Lupe came to a big stand of spent fireweed where thousands of seeds were blowing away in the breeze.

A bright yellow version of a woolly bear.

Amid the fireweed that had gone to seed. Photo looks SSW.

Soon after passing the fireweed, the trail ran along the rim of the upper end of the Wahkeena Creek valley. 0.5 mile away, a heavily forested hill could be seen to the SW. It wasn’t very high, or remarkable in any way.

Think that’s Devils Rest (2,400 ft.), Looper.

Really? Not going to see much over there, are we, SPHP?

Maybe not. Sure doesn’t look all that promising from here, Loop.

Lupe came to another trail junction. No signage. The girl that had passed SPHP on the switchbacks was sitting nearby, meditating.

Beyond this junction, Devils Rest Trail No. 420C gradually curved W, still following the rim of the valley. The trail was wide, smooth, and perfectly flat. The trunks of large trees were blackened by fire, but the forest had survived here. Ferns grew below the trees, but the tall vegetation that had hemmed Lupe in earlier was gone.

Like a walk in the park! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe came to a wooden bridge across a tiny stream. Eventually the trail curved SW away from the rim of the valley, winding through the forest. A second unsigned junction appeared. The trail to the R went uphill, so Lupe followed it. 250 feet got her to a collection of mossy boulders next to a lightly fire-scarred tree that bore a wooden sign.

1:24 PM, 60ºF, Devils Rest (2,400 ft.) – Two clusters of mossy boulders separated by 50 feet constituted the summit of Devils Rest. Both were buried deep in the forest, confirming fears of a complete lack of views. Lupe easily leapt up to the top of the very highest boulder, which was a tall, rather skinny one among the group toward the W.

At the **true summit of Devils Rest.** Photo looks NW.

Lupe was still standing on the true summit when a woman appeared. She claimed to be a landscape photographer. Relinquishing the true summit, Loop and SPHP moved to the NE collection of boulders, which was only nominally lower.

At the NE boulder collection. Photo looks NE.

**True summit** (Center) from the NE boulders. Photo looks SW.

Apparently Landscape Photographer Lady wasn’t overly impressed with Devils Rest. A few minutes, and she was outta here! However, before she left, she imparted an important tip to SPHP. The trail that continued straight where Loopster had turned R to come up to Devils Rest was a shortcut to Angels Rest.

Interesting, timely, and useful information, indeed! Neither SPHP’s maps, nor any of the posted trail maps, showed that trail. If Lupe could go that way, she could save several miles, plus a bunch of unnecessary elevation loss and gain, versus returning to Wahkeena Trail No. 420, and then proceeding on to Angels Rest.

After Landscape Photographer Lady left, Meditation Girl appeared. For a long time, she sat silently over by the true summit. Meanwhile, Lupe was perfectly content, enjoying the NE boulder cluster. SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw, congratulating Loopster on her successful ascent of Devils Rest (her first ever Oregon peak!), and split a chocolate coconut bar with her.

Getting comfy on a bed of short pine needles in a cleft between two of the mossy boulders, Lupe then had some Taste of the Wild and water. Meditation Girl could take as long as she liked. Loop was in no hurry.

Meditation Girl took her sweet time, but eventually vanished, never to be seen again. The American Dingo remained, extending her Devils Rest visit. Lupe sniffed about and scrambled on some of the rocks of the NE cluster before returning to the true summit again.

Among the NE cluster boulders. Photo looks N.

No one else appeared. Her traditional summit hour complete, Lupe left the mossy boulders of Devils Rest alone in the quiet forest. Returning to the last junction, Lupe followed Landscape Photographer Lady’s advice, taking the mysterious shortcut to Angels Rest.

The trail headed gradually down a jungley slope deep in the forest. After only 200 feet, a sign appeared ahead.

First sign (L) along the Angels Rest shortcut.

Appears we’re on the Foxglove Trail, Loop.

Beyond the sign, Foxglove Way headed W down through a secluded part of the jungle at a pretty good clip, gradually curving NW. At the bottom of this medium length decent was another trail junction.

No signage. Now what?

Looking around more carefully, actually there was some signage. A little back up Foxglove Way, two signs were nailed to a tree.

Signage (L) back along Foxglove Way. Photo looks SE.

Angels Rest was L (W) at this junction, which made sense. A little past the junction, another sign confirmed that Lupe was going the right way.

Whether or not Lupe was still on Foxglove Way wasn’t clear, but SPHP presumed she was. From the junction, the trail slowly gained 80 feet of elevation before topping out and beginning a long and equally gradual descent. This entire region was forested, too.

Lupe came to a creepy tree all hung with moss, but it really wasn’t scary in the middle of the afternoon.

After a fairly long downhill stretch, a clearing that was still quite a bit lower could be seen ahead near the edge of the mountain.

That must be Angels Rest, Loop!

The trail continued W straight for it. Shortly before getting there, Lupe came to yet another junction.

At the junction. Lupe had come down from the R. Photo looks ENE.

Sign at the junction. The trail to Wahkeena Falls at this point is actually a continuation E of Angels Rest Trail No. 415. Foxglove Way goes to Devils Rest.

Lupe kept going W toward the clearing. Two minutes, and she had her best view yet of Angels Rest, an uneven 800 foot long ridge extending WNW out from the rest of the mountain toward the Columbia River.

Approaching **Angels Rest**. Photo looks WNW.

3:14 PM, 72ºF, Angels Rest (1,600 ft.) – A 15 mph breeze was blowing out of the NNE as Lupe reached Angels Rest. The trail passed an initial rock formation along the N edge that provided a great viewpoint. Near a low spot just a little farther on, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 angled up from the SE. This was the route to the closest trailhead 2 miles farther W down by the Columbia River.

Ignoring that option, Lupe continued WNW along the spur that went out onto Angels Rest, pausing often to enjoy the views from a series of scenic rock formations along the N edge. Unfortunately, the air was somewhat smoky, especially toward the W, but at least the smoke wasn’t terrible.

View from the first rock formation. Photo looks N.

Exploring the rock formations. Photo looks NW.

A bit smoky, but an otherwise tremendous view of the **Columbia River**. Photo looks W.

The true summit of Angels Rest, to the extent there was one, was located up on a large rock formation near the E end of the ridge just beyond the low point. Naturally, Lupe went up there for a look around.

**Columbia River** from up top. Photo looks NE.

The Angels Rest ridge was a little lower and wider as Lupe continued on toward the WNW end. Many bushes and a few trees covered most of the center and S side of the ridge, while the N side was more open.

At the far end, the N side of the ridge dropped toward a region of solid rock with a fabulous panoramic view of the Columbia River gorge. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone at all on Foxglove Way after leaving Devils Rest, but visitors swarmed over Angels Rest. A couple of young women with a dog had taken possession of the barren rocks right along the edge.

It had been a long trek. Lupe was in no great rush. Taking shelter from the sun among the bushes nearby, where she still had a spectacular view, it was time for a break. SPHP congratulated the American Dingo on her successful “ascent” of Angels Rest, which had been nearly all downhill, then shared the second (and last!) chocolate coconut bar with her. Loop then saw fit to polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild, as well.

A big drink of water, and the Carolina Dog conked out, enjoying the cool breeze in the shade of the bushes.

Approaching the terrific viewpoint (Center) along the N edge near the end of the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Throngs of people came and went, many going almost right down to the two young women, and sometimes talking to them. They didn’t budge, though, retaining their premier spot.

Studying the view while Loopster snoozed, SPHP suddenly realized that Silver Star Mountain (4,360 ft.) was right across the Columbia River! Almost every high point the American Dingo had visited yesterday was in sight, plus Larch Mountain (3,480 ft.) (the one in Washington), too!

It had to happen, and finally did. The two young women departed. Their prime viewpoint was vacant!

No rest for the wicked, Looper! C’mon, let’s go down there!

Wicked! This is Angel’s Rest, SPHP!

Can’t fool me, sly Dingo. I saw you taking it mighty easy up at Devils Rest not so long ago!

**Larch Mountain** (far L) and **Silver Star Mountain** (L) beyond the **Columbia River** from the premier viewpoint. Photo looks N.

Almost instantly, more people arrived. Relinquishing the primo spot, Lupe followed a use trail counter-clockwise around the end of the ridge. At the far W end along the S side, a small opening provided probably the most splendid view of all from Angels Rest.

**Columbia River** from **Angels Rest**. Photo looks W.

Gosh, too bad it’s so smoky this way, Loop. What a magnificent sight!

I bet our friend, Jobe Wymore, has seen this view at sunset countless times, SPHP. Can you imagine that? He climbed Angels Rest almost daily for years!

Yeah, this must be absolutely amazing at sunset! And just think, if we had been here 216 years ago, we could have seen Lewis & Clark sail by, almost at the end of their journey to the Pacific Ocean. They must have been happy!

No, I don’t think so, SPHP. They came in November when the weather was lousy. Remember when we went to Dismal Nitch with Lanis? And Lewis & Clark also named Cape Disappointment. We’re having a much better time here today than Lewis & Clark ever did.

Lupe had been at Angels Rest for more than an hour already. Getting to be late afternoon, and it was a long way back. Before departing, Lupe returned to the Angels Rest summit, and spent a little while exploring and sniffing some more among the interesting rock formations.

**Angels Rest summit**. Photo looks ESE.

Final moments along the N edge. **Larch Mountain** (L), **Silver Star Mountain** (R) beyond the **Columbia River**. Photo looks NNW.

5:17 PM, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 – After returning to the junction near Angels Rest where the sign had pointed the way to Wahkeena Falls, Lupe went that way. Miles to go, but Wahkeena Falls would be a considerable shortcut back to Multnomah Falls compared to going all the way back to Devils Rest again.

It was a beautiful early evening with sunlight streaming through the burnt forest illuminating the tall, lush undergrowth. Angels Rest Trail No. 415 went gradually uphill at first, before leveling out at a high point where there was a junction with a shortcut back to Foxglove Way. From there, No. 415 was level, or nearly so, as it wound along the mountain working its way generally NE.

Angels Rest Trail No. 415. Photo looks NE.

After gaining some elevation following a stream before crossing it, the trail turned N, beginning a long descent. Eventually curving E, then S, Angels Rest Trail No. 415 was going NE again when Lupe finally reached Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

Sign pointing back along Angels Rest Trail No. 415 at the junction with Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

Junction of Angels Rest Trail No. 415 and Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

Distances to various points along Wahkeena Trail No. 420.

Down, down, down! Turning NNW (L) at Wahkeena Trail No. 420, Lupe followed it nearly 1.5 miles down to Hwy 30, an easy trek on good trail past many beautiful sights. Both Fairy Falls, not far from the top, and Wahkeena Falls, near the bottom, were definite highlights. Wahkeena Creek was gorgeous all the way, as it cascaded down the steep valley.

Signage at the Wahkeena Falls trailhead.

7:14 PM, 78ºF, RAV4 – Devils Rest, Angels Rest, Multnomah Falls and so many others – what a fabulous day it had been! Lupe had made a giant loop with wonderful sights lurking around every bend. Still light out, too! Plenty of time for a pleasant evening drive E through the awesome Columbia River Gorge on I-84.

The sun was down, and it was getting dark when a weary Carolina Dog reached Hood River. Far enough. Dinner, then a long snooze ahead!

**Columbia River** from **Angels Rest**, Cascade Range, Oregon 8-24-21

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