Diamond Peak, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-28-21)

Day 23 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Another day, another decision.  The question, of course, as always, was how best to avoid the wildfire smoke?  Skies were surprisingly blue over Odell Lake as the RAV4 headed NW over Willamette Pass (5,128 ft.) on Hwy 58.  Maybe staying up among the higher peaks of the Cascades made some sense?

Coming into Oakridge, the deciding factor was dead ahead.  A partial view NW beyond the Cascades looked very smoky.

Kind of the opposite of what I expected, Loop!  Good thing we’re flexible.

So, we’re not going to the Oregon coast, SPHP?

Oh, we will, but not today!  I’m thinking Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.)!

Diamond Peak!  Think we’ll find any diamonds, SPHP?  You know what they say, diamonds are a Dingo’s best friend!

What?  I thought I was your best friend, Looper!

You’re highly rated, SPHP, but don’t let it go to your head!

S of Oakridge, Diamond Road (paved USFS Road No. 21) wound along the Hills Creek Reservoir for miles, then continued up the Middle Fork of the Willamette River valley.  A scenic drive to be sure, but a time consuming one, too.  Indigo Springs campground was something like 30 miles from Oakridge, and the turn onto USFS Road No. 2154 came 3 miles later.

At the L turn onto USFS Road No. 2154 off Diamond Road.

After a few miles, No. 2154 turned to gravel.  A couple more miles, and No. 2160 appeared on the L, followed by a R turn onto No. 380, which went to Emigrant Pass, but Lupe never got that far.

No. 380 was narrow, but good for only about a mile.  Beyond a pond, the road became deeply rutted.  SPHP had no intention of submitting Lupe’s new RAV4 to such abuse.  This would have to do.

12:53 PM, 69ºF, USFS Road No. 380 –  The RAV4 was safely stashed near the pond.  A smoke-tinged sky, but not bad at all.  Looked quite blue.

Let’s check out the pond, SPHP!

Parked near the pond a mile E of the turn onto USFS Road No. 380.
Checking out the cool pond.

Kind of a mucky shoreline, but the remote little pond was nice.

What do you think, SPHP?  I like it!  This is a great spot!

I like it too, Loop.  Hidden serenity!  Have a question for you, though.  We got here so late in the day, that we’re kind of forced to gamble one way or another.  Diamond Peak is not a trivial undertaking.  Over 6 miles one way from here, and close to 4,000 feet total elevation gain.  Think we can get there before sunset.  Still want to go for it?

Sunset on Diamond Peak would be awesome, SPHP, but that means we’d get back awfully late!  Wouldn’t we be better off waiting until tomorrow?  We could leave early in the morning, and be back before dark.

Yes, ordinarily that would be the thing to do, Looper.  However, we also have to consider what tomorrow might bring.  If the wind shifts tonight, and all the smoke we saw rolls in, then what?  We might have missed our shot at Diamond Peak entirely.  The smoke is minimal right now.  Who knows how long that will last?

Extended debate was out.  Decision time!  The Carolina Dog was willing to give it a shot.  Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) was a go!

Could have walked the road another mile plus E over Emigrant Pass to the Pacific Crest Trail near Summit Lake, but a Diamond Peak trailhead had been passed on the way in only 1/8 mile back W along No. 380.  The trailhead didn’t amount to much, scarcely a wide spot in the road, but it didn’t take long to get there.

On the N side of No. 380, a sign saying Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699 stood on a sandy bank.  Next to it a trail headed up into the forest.

Setting off for Diamond Peak!

Above the little sandy bank, the trail leveled out.  Almost immediately, Lupe came to a registration station.  Registration and a free, self-issued permit were required.  Paperwork complete, SPHP consulted the posted map.  Lots of trails shown, but only the Pacific Crest Trail actually got close to Diamond Peak.

At the registration station.
The posted Diamond Peak Wilderness map.

Beyond the registration station, Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699 was fairly level, an easy stroll N, then NW, through the forest.  Less than 10 minutes got Lupe to a small pond.  W of the pond, the trail gained elevation, then lost it again going past a large rock formation.

Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699 beyond the registration station. Photo looks N.
By the pond. Photo looks NNW.

Once past the pond, Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699 continued N, most of the time gradually gaining elevation.  Unlike other trails Lupe had been on in Oregon and Washington, No. 3699 looked seldom used, and had a fair amount of deadfall.  Along a 50 foot stretch almost entirely hidden beneath deadfall, SPHP briefly lost the route.

However, other than that one point, the trail was easy to follow.  Lupe leapt over, or snuck under, whatever deadfall she came to.  Nothing to see but trees.  The forest went on and on, but progress was good.

At a small clearing. Lupe came to no significant ones.
A typical stretch.

Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699 eventually steepened and turned NW.  Nothing major, but Lupe gained 300 feet of elevation before it leveled out again.  A short rest break was taken at a rotten log.  Continuing on, the trail soon started downhill.

Seemed like the Carolina Dog had been on No. 3699 for nearly 2 miles now.  SPHP was starting to worry that a junction with Rockpile Trail No. 3632 might have been missed, when Lupe came to it.  No. 3632 was a broad well-traveled path with nice new signage.  Actually would have been hard to miss!

Taking a break by the rotten log.
At the junction with Rockpile Trail No. 3632.
Spiffy new signage at the junction.

After another short break at the intersection, Lupe headed E on Rockpile Trail No. 3632.  Still in the forest, the trail climbed steadily at a moderate pace.  No deadfall at all now.  Even the forest had a groomed look to it.

The trail soon turned NE, and before too long began to level out.

Huh.  Diamond Rockpile (6,323 ft.) sure isn’t what I had envisioned.  Just another hill in the forest.

Diamond Rockpile?  Where’s that, SPHP?  Is that different from Diamond Peak?

Yes, entirely different.  Think we just passed Diamond Rockpile, Looper.  This must be the saddle between it and the next hill NE, HP6310.  Trail went within 100 feet of the top.  If we had more time, we would check it out, but we better keep going.

Wait!  We’re close to a diamond rockpile, and we aren’t even going to spend a few minutes filling your pockets with diamonds?  That’s crazy, SPHP!

Sad, but true, Loopster.  Price of our late start.  We’ll have to be content with whatever diamonds we scoop up off Diamond Peak.  Shouldn’t need tons of ’em, anyway.  Even a single small diamond is pretty valuable.

Beyond the saddle, Rockpile Trail No. 3632 climbed modestly, topping out while traversing HP6310‘s upper S slope.  This high point provided the first distant view of the day, Cowhorn Mountain (7,664 ft.) and Sawtooth Mountain (7,301 ft.) beyond Summit Lake.

SW of HP6310, only minutes from the viewpoint. Photo looks ESE.
Cowhorn Mountain (L) and Sawtooth Mountain (R) beyond Summit Lake. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Upon reaching the E end of HP6310, Trail No. 3632 started downhill.  Lupe saw water in a clearing down in the valley the trail was heading for.  Looked like what was left of a pond that was drying up.

Another nicely signed trail junction was at the bottom of the hill.  Marie Lake Trail No. 3632.2 went NW (L) bound for Marie Lake, which was less than 0.25 mile away.

However, Lupe was destined to miss out on Marie Lake, too.  Rockpile Trail No. 3632 went S (R) here, passing through the clearing Loop had seen earlier.  The water was actually what remained of a stagnant stream, not a pond.

Initial glimpse of the clearing in the valley E of HP6310. Photo looks E.
In the valley, at the junction with spur Trail No. 3632.2 to Marie Lake.
Signage at the junction.
Following the stagnant stream through the clearing. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe followed the stream through the clearing, but it soon veered off to the SE.  Near the top of a sandy rise, the Carolina Dog came to another junction.  Trail No. 3632.1 went SW (R) to Rockpile Lake.

On the sandy rise at the junction with Rockpile Lake Trail No. 3632.1. Photo looks SE.
Junction signage.

Ignoring this spur as well, Loopster stuck with Rockpile Trail No. 3632, which wound SE through a gently rolling region of fine, dusty soil where virtually nothing grew.  This region was thinly forested with numerous small clearings.

No. 3632 soon turned NE.  By the time Lupe reached the next junction, the clearings and dusty soil were gone.

Made it to the Pacific Crest Trail, Looper!

Lupe saw no one, but voices could be heard off to the S.  Kind of creepy!  A clear plastic bag hung from the signpost.

What’s in the bag, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop, I’ll take a look.  Hmm.  Appears to be donated supplies for hikers on the PCT.  A note says “Enjoy your day!”

Supplies?  Like what?  Any goodies for American Dingoes in there?

Not really, unless you like powdered soup.  Oh, wait!  Here’s something, a nice big blueberry fig bar.

Do I like blueberry figs, SPHP?  Can’t remember what they taste like.

That’s because you’ve never had any, Loop.  I don’t know.  You might like them.  Sounds intriguing to me!

Well, break a piece off for me then, SPHP.  I’ll give blueberry figs a try.

Oh, maybe we shouldn’t do that, Loop.  From the looks of this stuff, most of it is intended for through hikers on the PCT, not just day hikers like us.

Could have told me that at the start, SPHP!  Now here I am salivating over blueberry figs, and I don’t even know what they are!

Tell you what, Loop.  We’ll leave the blueberry fig bar here for now.  If it’s still here when we come back this way after our adventure on Diamond Peak, we’ll nab it then under cover of darkness!  How’s that?

Under cover of darkness?  You make it sound like we’re leading a life of crime!  It’s just one blueberry fig bar!

Sure about that, Loop?  Might be the start of something big!  Our career haunting the PCT as diamond and blueberry fig bar smugglers!

At the intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail.
Junction signage.

Leaving the junction, Lupe took the heavily-traveled Pacific Crest Trail N.  At first it was flat.  Glimpses of Diamond Peak began to appear as the trail headed NNE.  Before long, though, the trail began a gradual ascent, and forest hid the mountain again.  0.5 mile from Blueberry Fig Bar junction, the PCT curved WNW.

On the Pacific Crest Trail. Photo looks NW.

We’re not all that far from the S end of Diamond Peak now, Looper.  We’ll be climbing it from the S, so we need to start looking for where we should leave the PCT.

The PCT doesn’t go up there, SPHP?

No.  It by-passes Diamond Peak to the E, so we can’t just stay on the PCT.  Let me know if you happen to sniff out any kind of use trail.  Thought it would be easy to tell where to start up, but didn’t realize we wouldn’t be able to see the mountain.

After going 0.5 mile WNW, a clearing on a rocky hillside appeared.  The Pacific Crest Trail began a steeper climb.  4 minutes farther, and Lupe reached a viewpoint.  To the SSE, Summit Lake, Cowhorn Mountain, and Sawtooth Mountain were all in view again.  Loopster could even see the dramatic summit spire of Mount Thielsen (9,182 ft.).

Approaching the rocky hillside. Photo looks WNW.
Cowhorn Mountain (L), Sawtooth Mountain (R), and Mount Thielsen (far R) beyond Summit Lake from the PCT viewpoint. Photo looks SSE.

That wasn’t all, though!  This same viewpoint also had somewhat of a view to the N, where a high ridge was in sight not too far away.

S end of Diamond Peak from the Pacific Crest Trail. Photo looks N.

That’s where we need to be, Loop!  That’s the S end of Diamond Peak.

Not as high as I thought it would be, SPHP.

That’s just the beginning, sweet puppy.  Anyway, we aren’t going to be able to stick with the PCT much longer.  Keep that sniffer to the ground!  Would sure be nice if we can find a use trail instead of having to bushwhack our own route.

The PCT curved NE.  Lupe didn’t have to sniff hard for long.  2 minutes past the viewpoint, the American Dingo did find a use trail!  Even SPHP might have spotted it.  A candy cane ribbon was wrapped around a rock that was part of a small cairn.  More ribbons were tied to nearby trees.

Start of the Diamond Peak climbers trail where it leaves the PCT. Photo looks W.
So easy, I could have found it with my eyes closed. Maybe I did!

The long slog higher began.  The Carolina Dog was soon heading up a steep, sandy slope that supported little vegetation other than trees.  Above the sand, Lupe reached a curve where there actually was some ground cover, already sporting fall colors.  A rock slide came next, yet for the most part, the trail remained relatively easy to follow.

The slope eventually opened up.  Rocky and loose.  Trees were scarcer.  The trail was braided along in here with no clearly favored main route.  Angling slightly toward the W, Lupe made it up to a minor ridgeline where the terrain wasn’t quite as steep.

On the sandy slope. Photo looks NNW.
At the colorful curve. Photo looks NW.
Base of the rock slide. Photo looks NNE.
Starting to open up. Fewer trees. Photo looks N.
Just below the ridgeline. Photo looks NE.
Up on the nearly as steep ridge. More trees again. Photo looks NE.

Once on the ridge, the going was easier, but no major improvement.  The ridge went N, angling slightly back toward the E again.  Lupe finally got up to where she could see what lay ahead.

5:50 PM, Diamond Peak, S slope – Ugh!  The view was distressing.  A vast, barren, rocky slope, devoid of life except for small, scattered stands of stunted pines, stretched endlessly skyward toward an impossibly distant rocky high point at the far end.

Holy smokers, SPHP!  It’s another 1,000 feet, easy!

On the long slope, heading higher. Photo looks N.

The situation was starting to look hopeless.  Running out of time!  Another couple of hours, and the sun would be down.  Sure would be nice to get to the summit with enough daylight to spare in order to be able to enjoy it.  No telling, though, what might still be ahead.

Lupe was high enough now to see a new threat, too.  All day long, the sky had been blue.  Not crystal clear, but decent.  Unfortunately, thick smoke was now pouring in from the W.  Views were rapidly disappearing.

No choice.  The Carolina Dog had already come so far, she had to keep going.  Maybe it would all work out?

Onward!  Puppy ho!

Nothing technically difficult about it, just a long, steep trudge higher.  Loose sand and scree generally meant slippage with each step, although some stretches were firmer.  Still a braided trail situation, so choose your favorite route!

Looking somewhat more feasible after a considerable climb. Photo looks NNW.
Wildfire smoke pouring in from out of the W. Cowhorn Mountain (L) and part of Summit Lake still in sight. Photo looks, SSE.

Already tired, short breathers, and a few longer breaks had to be taken.  During one of them a small bird landed on top of a nearby tree.

Hey, Loop!  Look at that!  These must be whitebark pines.  That’s a Clark’s nutcracker!  Saw a picture of one yesterday on one of the displays on the way up Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.).

A real, live Clark’s nutcracker! True friend of the whitebark pines!
Clark’s Nutcracker – Whitebark’s Best Friend

That’s cool, SPHP!  Glad to see that there really are some still around.  Gives me hope!  By the way, have you seen any diamonds yet?  I haven’t seen a one.

Diamonds?  No, not yet, Loop, but I haven’t been paying close attention.  Just trying to keep moving.  Most diamonds are tiny.  Think we’d have to look pretty closely to find them, study each little rock on the ground.

Shouldn’t diamonds sparkle, though, SPHP?

Maybe, but probably not all that much until they’ve been cut.  To tell you the truth, Loopster, in my whole life, I’ve found shockingly few diamonds laying about.  Not entirely sure what a diamond in the rough looks like.

Well, all I can say is Diamond Peak is an impressive mountain, SPHP, but it’s not nearly as much glitter, bling, and sparkle as I thought it would be.

The climb went on.  Bit by bit, step by step, progress.  Even so, gazing back down the mountain, what had been accomplished didn’t look like any great shakes.  Took a while for the hill above to start looking like that, like maybe sometime soon Lupe would actually be there.

Diamond Peak was dry as a bone.  A gentle breeze was enough to stir up the loose dust from every step.  Breathing an unhealthy mix of dust and whatever smoke was already here, the trudge higher continued.

On a particularly rocky stretch. Still more to go. Photo looks NNW.
We’ll get there, SPHP! Follow me! Photo looks NE.
Diamond Peak’s S slope as smoke obliterates the views. Photo looks SSE.

At last, Lupe was close to the end of the long climb!  The smoke situation wasn’t good, but at least the sun remained well above the horizon.  Still some time left.  What was ahead?  Loopster would know in a moment.

Just below the top of the long slog. Photo looks NNW.

6:38 PM, HP8421 (Diamond Peak’s S summit) – Streaked with shades of gray and rust running down its flanks, Diamond Peak was beautiful!  For the first time, the true summit, still 300+ feet higher, was now in sight 0.33 mile N.  The more distant part of the ridge leading to it didn’t look bad at all.  Cake!

However, the part of the ridge already close at paw was another matter.  Rugged volcanic rock formations capped much of the ridgeline.

Hoo, girl!  Let’s hope this doesn’t get technical, Looper.

At HP8421, Diamond Peak’s false S summit. True summit (L of Center). Photo looks N.

Most of it really wasn’t bad at all.  One of the first formations was among the hardest to get past.  Staying up top was impossible.  The W side of the ridge was too steep.  Braided use trails along the E side were only a little better.

Trying to stay too high, SPHP wound up crawling along a narrow pumice ridge with exposure, Lupe right behind.  Once past that one, none of the other gendarmes were as bad, but getting by them was still chewing up a bunch of time.  Occasionally, the W side of the ridge was best, but staying E was usually better.

View along the E side of the ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Same spot. True summit (L of Center). Photo looks N.
On the E side ledges. Photo looks N.
Successfully past the gnarliest gendarme. Photo looks S.
More fun ahead! True summit (L of Center), Photo looks N.
Right up on the ridgeline again. Photo looks N.
Another stretch along the Dingo-recommended E side. Photo looks N.

Difficulties behind her, evening sunlight streamed over the mountain as Lupe followed an easy, winding path toward the summit.  Near the end, the path went through a gap filled with a jumble of rocks, but nothing to it, really.  An eerie orange alpenglow influenced by smoke hung over the mountain as the Carolina Dog approached the true summit.

Suddenly looking like a win! Photo looks N.
Last Dingo of the day on Diamond Peak!
Going through the gap. Rocky, but short. No problemo.
Almost there! In the orange alpenglow. Photo looks N.

7:30 PM, 60ºF, Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) No diamonds sparkled in the alpenglow as Lupe reached the true summit, a flat, barren hilltop 20 feet in diameter covered with small, reddish-brown volcanic stones.

Three ridges radiated from the top – NE, NW, plus the S ridge Lupe had come up.  The NE ridge was long, and led to impressive, wild-looking subpeaks.  A small glacier lay hidden from the sun on the NE side of the much shorter NW ridge.  Between these ridges were huge expanses of much lower territory.

The NE ridge. HP8629 (beyond Lupe). Photo looks NNE.
NW ridge. HP8306 (R). Photo looks NW.
A better look at the NW ridge glacier. Photo looks NW.
S Ridge. HP8421 (Center). Photo looks S.

And that was about it as far as what Lupe could see from Diamond Peak.  The mountain was surrounded by smoke that seemed to top out at about the same level.  To the S, only the tips of Cowhorn Mountain, Sawtooth Mountain, and the spiky summit of Mount Thielsen were visible floating on a white sea.  No other distant views except straight up, where the sky still looked blue.

Cowhorn Mountain (L), Sawtooth Mountain (R of Center), and Mount Thielsen (R). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

On the summit itself, Diamond Peak offered little of interest.  No registry, no survey benchmark, not even a cairn.

Not a single diamond, either, SPHP!   Might want to mention that!

Or blueberry fig bar, which was starting to sound mighty good.

Lupe was tired, or perhaps disappointed.  Reluctantly, she posed for a few photos, then laid down to rest.  A good idea, actually, since the time remaining before sunset was short.  Loopster willingly split a chocolate coconut bar with SPHP, then had some Taste of the Wild and water, but displayed little enthusiasm when SPHP shook her paw to congratulate her on the successful ascent.

Relaxing on Diamond Peak. HP8629 (R). Photo looks N.

Good thing the American Dingo hadn’t started out any later, or taken any of the possible side trips to Diamond Rockpile or the lakes!  Time was short enough as it was.  Refusing to budge, Loop rested as long as she could, enjoying the fading alpenglow on the ridges while the sun sank toward the smoke.

NE ridge as the alpenglow fades. HP8629 (L). Photo looks NNE.

Too tired to search for diamonds, Lupe refused to budge from her gritty resting place.  25 precious minutes on Diamond Peak ticked away.  The sun was now on the smoke horizon.

Smokeset beyond the NW ridge. HP8306 (R). Photo looks WNW.

Hate to say it, Loopster, but we better get back to HP8421.  Not too keen on creeping along exposed ledges in the dark.

Can we at least stay until the sun is gone, SPHP?

Oh, sure, Loop!  That’ll be fine.

Smokeset from Diamond Peak. Photo looks WNW.

A few minutes more, and sadly, already time to go.  HP8421 appeared to be above most of the smoke, as Lupe started back.

About to leave the summit. HP8421 (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Took a while, but the return to HP8421 went well.  Cake all the way down to the saddle.  Then staying lower on the E side of the ridge this time, SPHP managed to avoid the exposed ledge crawl.  Still very steep, and rather slow, but a bit of caution was all that was required.

Returning to HP8421 (L of Center). Photo looks S.
Moon (Center) from HP8421.

Lupe often wanted to rest during the rocky descent of Diamond Peak’s long S slope.  SPHP often obliged her.  No smoke above, a million stars glittered in the night sky.  The little flashlight’s beam was very weak and acting weird, sometimes going into strobe mode.  Changing the batteries helped tremendously.

The dark descent into the black void seemed endless, but at long last the cairn with the candy cane ribbon appeared.

Back at the Pacific Crest Trail, a longer rest in the shadows beneath the tall spruce trees worked wonders.  Or maybe Lupe was just glad to be out of all the rock, and back on smooth trail again?

Taking the lead, but always careful to make sure SPHP was still coming, the Carolina Dog no longer wanted to rest.  Every time SPHP shined the flashlight on her, Lupe stared back with a big smile, eyes sparkling like diamonds.  Miles to go, but even toward the end, back on Diamond Peak Trail No. 3699, she leapt over all the deadfall without hesitation.

At long last, dinner, followed by soft blankets and Dingo Dreamland at the RAV4.  However, a rare delicacy was not on the wee hour menu.  When Lupe had reached the junction of the PCT and Rockpile Trail No. 3632, plenty of powdered soup remained, but the coveted blueberry fig bar was already gone.  (End 1:13 AM, 58ºF)

Diamond Peak, Cascade Range, Oregon 8-28-21

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South Sister, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-26-21)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:40 AM, 41ºF, Cascade Lakes Highway, Dutchman Flats –  Luck of the Dingo, a miracle!  A minor one, anyway.  Twice during the wee hours, there’d been rain.  Not much.  Only light rain for 20 minutes the second time, and that was the big deluge.  Then pre-dawn, Orion had been gleaming near the E horizon.

And now?  Mount Bachelor (9.065 ft.) stood against a sky containing only a trace of the thick smoke that had completely hidden it when Lupe arrived yesterday evening.

Mount Bachelor. Photo looks SW.

Wooo-hooo, Loopster!  We are so extremely lucky!  Gonna be alright!  Thar she blows!

Fantastic news, SPHP!  No trip to the coast today after all.  But with a name like “Bachelor”, that mountain’s got to be a dude, not a she.

Hah!  Bachelor isn’t what I’m talking about, Loop.  Look over there!  That’s why we’re here!

9 miles NW, capped by a wispy lenticular cloud, a massive volcano was in sight.  Hadn’t been visible at all yesterday evening, but there she was.

Wow!  That’s where we’re going, SPHP?

Yup.  You’re in for a real slog today, Looper!  Nearly 4,900 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles from Devils Lake.  Most definitely a she-mountain, too!  That’s South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

South Sister (R) from Dutchman Flats. Photo looks NW.
With help from the telephoto lens.

9:02 AM, 46ºF, Devils Lake trailhead – Surprisingly little activity, but lots of vehicles around.  Over at the campground, people were stirring as Lupe set out on South Sister Climber Trail No. 36.  Boardwalk bridges got her over a couple of streams in a flat region before reaching Cascade Lakes Highway.

Crossing the highway, the American Dingo began an incredible journey.

Start of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36.

Immediately N of the highway, the trail was flat as it ran along the W bank of a lovely stream.  However, a steady climb N up a forested valley quickly commenced.  The stream soon wandered farther E.  Lupe went over to see it tumbling down mossy stones, and get a drink.

By the mossy stone stream.

Returning to the trail, the climb resumed.  The stream soon disappeared entirely, whether up a side drainage or simply underground, SPHP never really knew.  Little to see here except trees, but the trail was in excellent condition, no obstacles at all, and super easy to follow.

Heading up the valley. Photo looks N.

As the Carolina Dog continued higher, the valley began to narrow.  Half way up, just beyond the narrowest point, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 leveled out, becoming sandy as Lupe entered a clearing where the valley widened out again.

In the narrows. A small clearing is just around the next bend (L). Photo looks N.

The flat clearing was a welcome respite, but the march higher resumed as soon as Lupe got beyond it.  Trail No. 36 began winding up steeper slopes than before, switchbacks helping to limit the rate of climb.

Big rock formations eventually appeared off to the E.  After getting fairly close to them, the trail turned NW.  Looper had already gained a bunch of elevation.  Encouragingly, it was beginning to look like she was about to climb out of the upper end of the valley.

Past the clearing, winding higher. Photo looks SSE.
Near the rock formations. Photo looks E.
Close to climbing out the N end of the valley? Photo looks N.

After reaching the NW side of the valley, the trail switchbacked NE.  Soon it became clear that the American Dingo really was about to escape the valley!  The trail turned N.  From the top of a little rise, a magnificent sight – South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

Directly ahead, the trail sloped gently down to a junction.

Out of the valley, with South Sister in sight! Photo looks N.

At the junction, Phase 1 of Lupe’s journey to South Sister, the 1.5 mile long trek up the long valley, was complete.  The route she needed to take from here was completely obvious, just keep heading N for South Sister.  Trail No. 17.1 offered other possible choices, either NE down to Moraine Lake, or W for parts unknown.

At the junction with Trail No. 17.1. Lupe had come up from the L. Photo looks WSW.
Signage at the junction.

Continuing N from the junction, Phase 2 of Lupe’s South Sister journey began.  This was by far the easiest section of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36.  A broad path wound through low hills of gritty volcanic soil that supported only scant vegetation other than scattered stands of pines.  Elevation gain was minimal.  In many places, the trail was nearly flat.  The Carolina Dog even came to short downhill sections, although they didn’t amount to much.

As the pines became scarcer, the increasingly open views became more deserty.  In her fur coat, Lupe got hot, and often wanted to enjoy a shady rest whenever the trail got close to the trees.  It was all extremely scenic, with South Sister nearly always looming ahead.  The jagged peaks of Broken Top (9,175 ft.) were also often in view off to the NE.

Continuing N from the junction. Photo looks N.
An early view of Broken Top. Photo looks NE.
On a flat stretch. Photo looks NNE.
South Sister ahead. Photo looks N.
A bit closer. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Progress was fast and easy, with only the short water and rest breaks to cool off in the shade slowing things down.  As Loopster rapidly closed the remaining gap to the base of the mountain, South Sister looked more and more daunting based on sheer size alone.  At one point, the Carolina Dog passed another trail on the R that came up from Moraine Lake.

Continuing toward South Sister. Photo looks N.
By the trail that came up from Moraine Lake. Photo looks E.
Passing along the edge of a few small hills. South Sister (L of Center). Photo looks N.
A gnarled tree. Photo looks NE.
Looking back. Devils Hill (7,080 ft.) (L). Photo looks S.

For quite a long way, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 stayed near the E edge of the huge flat ridge Lupe was traveling N.  Sometimes she enjoyed views down into the canyon to the E.  From a few spots, it was possible to catch a glimpse of Moraine Lake.  Hard to think about that, though, when South Sister was getting closer with every step.  The mountain drew the eye like a magnet.

Getting closer. Photo looks N.
South Sister (L of Center). Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.) (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Summit region. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Another glance over at Broken Top (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The trail eventually began drifting NW, away from the canyon which it was now essentially past.  South Sister’s summit region vanished from view, hidden by the mountain’s lower slopes.  Phase 3 was beginning, start of the ascent.

How much higher do we have to go, SPHP?

About 3,500 feet, Loop, over 2 miles.

Sounded like a lot.  Only 1,400 feet gained so far?  Felt like it had been a long march already.

The trail began climbing again.  Slowly at first, but more steeply as Lupe went on.

Climbing again. Photo looks N.

For a while, trees were fairly numerous.  No. 36 even wound through short stretches of forest.  Higher up, trees were scarcer.  The trail ran N some distance W of a rocky ridge capped by a line of cliffs.  This ridge was considerably higher, but Lupe was gaining on it.

Below the cliffs (R) of the ridge to the E. Photo looks NE.

The ground was mostly gritty, loose soil.  No doubt volcanic.  Good-sized rocks were part of the mix, but the terrain wasn’t super rocky.

So far, Lupe had seen only a few people, a large group way back at the very start, and a couple near the upper end of the long valley that had camped at Moraine Lake last night.  However, as the trail steepened, Lupe began meeting more and more people on their way down.

Those who had made it to the summit had been disappointed.  The top of the mountain had been shrouded in fog.  No views at all.

The sky over South Sister was a beautiful, deep blue now, though.  Seemed like a perfect day!

Hah!  Looks like the late Dingo is going to get the worm this time, Loop!

Worm!  I’ll have you know, I’m not climbing this beast for worms, SPHP!  This monster ought to merit several chocolate coconut bars.

Oh, my gosh, Looper!  I forgot to bring any!  I do have Taste of the Wild for you.  Sorry, but that’s gonna be it.

No chocolate coconut bars?  Didn’t seem right at all.  Taste of the Wild was nutritious, but like cake minus icing.  Chocolate coconut icing to be precise!  Nothing to be done about it.  A miffed Dingo trudged onward, trying to make the best of it.  SPHP plodded along behind.

The mountain was getting steep.  Looking back during SPHP’s breathers, Loop could see Devils Hill (7,080 ft.) and Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.).  She was also seeing evidence that this day might not be so perfect after all.  Miles away, a wall of smoke or fog was now visible to the S and W.

Mount Bachelor (L), Devils Hill (R of Center) beyond Moraine Lake. The flat ridge that South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 runs along is at far R. Photo looks SSE.

A light breeze was blowing out of the SW.  Not good.  SPHP kept an eye on the situation.  Trouble seemed to be approaching, but quite slowly.

The approaching bank of fog and/or smoke. Photo looks W.

C’mon, Looper!  Let’s keep moving as much as possible.  Afraid your Luck of the Dingo might run out on us.

Fine, SPHP, but I don’t think I’m the holdup here!

A line of trees stood along the upper rim of a really steep slope.  Despite the urgency of some need for speed, SPHP only managed to plod along at a snail’s pace.  Near the top, loose soil gave way to a series of small, solid rock ledges.  Once up to where the trees were, a gray hill was visible off to the NE.

On the steep slope leading up to the line of trees. Photo looks N.

That hill was Nipple Point (8,600 ft.).  The trail looped clear around the E side of it before turning NW.

Nipple Point (Center). Photo looks NE.
Circling around Nipple Point (not shown). Photo looks E.
On the back side, NE of Nipple Point (Center) now. Photo looks SW.

Beyond Nipple Point, the trail ascended a long slope of very loose gray scree.  At the top of this climb, Lupe reached a saddle SW of a big hill.  An awesome sight was ahead!

Still 1,500 feet higher, South Sister’s rust red dome towered beautifully above what remains of the Lewis Glacier, a turquoise meltwater pond nestled below it.

On the gray scree slope above Nipple Point. Photo looks NW.
South Sister and the Lewis Glacier. Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.) far R. Photo looks N.

To the NW, quite a few hikers were visible coming down along the edge of a colorful ridge of pumice overlooking the glacier and turquoise tarn.  Several more were relaxing right here at the saddle.  Still more than 150 feet higher, Lewis Glacier Peak (9,017 ft.) was immediately NE.

South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 proceeds up the ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.
Hodge Crest (L) and Lewis Glacier Peak (R). Photo looks NNE.

A rest break was taken at the saddle.  However, the American Dingo couldn’t linger long.  The wall of smoke or fog approaching from the SW suddenly seemed much closer now.  Clouds were increasingly starting to hang around the top of South Sister before sailing off to the NE.  As soon as SPHP could summon the energy to do so, Lupe resumed her ascent.

Heading higher. Photo looks N.

Early on, Lupe passed a line of boulders strung out along the crest of the ridge.  Beyond the boulders, she eventually worked high enough to gaze down on the Lewis Glacier slowly, inexorably, melting away in the sun.

The scenery was fantastic!  Even the ground was fascinating.  Loopster climbed through distinct zones of red, yellow, grey, and black volcanic soils.  Meanwhile, although skies were often still blue over South Sister, the wall of smoke and fog was steadily closing in.  A procession of hikers was coming down the mountain.  SPHP wondered where they had all started from this morning?

Boulders along the ridge crest.
Seeking shade. Broken Top (R) and Lewis Glacier Peak (far R). Photo looks ESE.
Near the Lewis Glacier. South Sister (L), Hodge Crest (R). Photo looks N.
Toe of the Lewis Glacier. Photo looks NE.
Broken Top (far L), Lewis Glacier Peak (L), the saddle (beyond Lupe), Mount Bachelor (far R). Photo looks SE.
Colorful soils along the edge. Photo looks N.

The weary trudge higher went on and on.  Can’t stop!  Not for more than a moment or two to gasp for air.  The top of the mountain seemed to get closer only at a snail’s pace.  People streamed by.  Everyone was heading down.  They were all in great spirits!  These climbers had been at the top when the sky was blue and the views were incredible.

Whether or not Lupe could get up there in time to enjoy those views still hung in the balance.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Making progress as time runs out. Broken Top (far L), Lewis Glacier Peak (R), Mount Bachelor (far R). Photo looks SE.
The approaching wall of smoke and fog. Photo looks SW.
Still hope! Blue skies over South Sister. Photo looks N.

Angling NW, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 left the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier.  Steep, although perhaps not quite as steep as before.  Loopster met the last few stragglers coming down the mountain.  At last, it finally started to look like the top couldn’t be much farther!

Getting there! Photo looks NNW.

Heh.  Farther than it looked.  Lupe kept climbing.  She seemed to be only a few hundred feet from the top, yet more mountain kept appearing.

Doomed!  The wall of fog arrived, and the world disappeared.

Too late! Photo looks SE.

2:55 PM, 52ºF, South Sister (10,358 ft.), S rim – Borne on a breeze now 10 mph out of the SW, fog streamed by as the rate of climb diminished.  Near the end, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 turned NNE.  Fortunately, the fog was intermittent.  As Lupe crossed a plain of red cinders, a small ridge of wild-looking rock was ahead.  Reaching it half an hour after the fog first hit, the American Dingo passed a small cairn.

Two people remained here, standing in a gray gloom along the edge of an enchanting, vaguely threatening, prehistoric scene revealed partially and only momentarily during sudden breaks in the cloud.  They waved, but said nothing.  SPHP waved back, then went with Lupe off to the W to take shelter from the rising wind among rocks of the volcanic ridge.

The ridge was higher toward the NW.  Between here and there, a cool fog streamed almost constantly out of the SW through a sizable gap.  Despite the fog, Lupe could usually see at least part of an enormous crater before her.  A glacier within sloped down from the W, meltwater trickling from its toe gathering in small pools below.

Every now and then, fog quit coming through the gap.  Then suddenly, the Carolina Dog would be in brilliant sunshine as the crater began to clear.  Patches of blue sky, and much more of the crater were revealed.  Occasionally, the true summit could be seen almost directly opposite Lupe’s position way over along the NE rim.

Along the S rim of the South Sister crater. Photo looks NE.
Upper reaches of the glacier along the W rim. Photo looks NNW.
Ice near meltwater pools.

Most of the time, though, fog hid everything that wasn’t close.  For nearly an hour, Lupe spent most of her time curled up on SPHP’s lap, watching fog stream through the gap.  South Sister’s crater felt primeval, wild and cold, like a hidden frozen piece of the world’s ancient dangerous past.

A few latecomers arrived shortly after Lupe did.  None stayed long, or ventured over toward the true summit, although one couple vanished into the fog off to the E for a little while.  Most stayed only a few minutes before turning around and heading back down.  One woman reacted with shock and dismay.  The entire crater used to be filled with snow and ice!  Even though Lupe and SPHP were amazed, what remained was evidently pitiful in comparison to what had once been.

Actually, I’m shocked, too, Loop.  Never expected this!

Why not, SPHP?  South Sister is a volcano!  You said so yourself.  What were you expecting?

Yeah, I know.  Just never really thought about it, Loopster.  Since South Sister looks like a big red dome from a distance, I assumed the whole thing would be like that.  A gentle stroll to a vast, featureless, rounded summit.

Glad it isn’t, SPHP!  A real volcanic crater with a glacier!  Way better!  

If anything, the weather seemed to be deteriorating.  The wind blew harder, more and more fog streamed by.  Fewer, shorter, brief episodes of sunshine.  SPHP began to worry.  South Sister was losing the battle with the fog.  Finally, though, a break came.  Suddenly, almost the entire crater cleared.  Another rare moment when South Sister’s true summit was in view again!

C’mon, Loop!  Now’s our chance!

Partially revived by the long rest, Loopster leapt to her paws and began following a well-worn use trail counter-clockwise around the crater.

Heading for South Sister’s true summit (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Along the E rim, conditions varied wildly.  A gentle breeze beneath blue skies one moment, 30 seconds later, a cold, gray gale.  Pausing to brace against the wind, Lupe surged forward whenever it let up.

Along the lower E end of the crater. Photo looks NW.
Fog moving in again. Photo looks NNE.
Approaching the NE rim beneath temporarily blue skies. Photo looks NNW.
South Sister crater glacier. Photo looks W.

Near the true summit, the ridgeline was dominated by wild, jagged rock.  Well below the top, Lupe picked her way through a geological jumble utilizing a maze of use trails.  Once through the worst of it, she climbed to a bench only slightly below the highest rocks, discovering a survey benchmark with an arrow.

Near the true summit. Survey benchmark (lower L). Photo looks WNW.
South Sister survey benchmark.

The true summit was a short, narrow ridge with steep drops along both sides.  A knob at the S end was the absolute high point.  Lupe couldn’t quite get to it, and wouldn’t have had room enough to sit up there, even if she could have reached it, but she did scramble up onto rocks only marginally lower 10 feet away.

4:07 PM, 38ºF, South Sister, true summit – Fog streamed past.  Now 20 mph, the wind was cold.  Alone in a gray world, way up at the top of mighty South Sister, Lupe stood like a champion, waiting for the next break that SPHP hoped and promised would soon arrive.

At the summit. Photo looks SE.

It did.  Not totally, or for long, but a partially blue sky did reappear.  SPHP quickly took the shot.  Close enough for Dingo work!

Moment of glory on South Sister. Photo looks SE.

Descending, Lupe lingered near the true summit only 5 or 10 minutes longer.  Conditions weren’t all that pleasant, and fog soon returned.

Final moments in the true summit region.

Lupe was halfway back to the S rim when the situation suddenly took a turn for the worse.  Dense fog swept in on a frigid 30 mph gale.  Even the trail vanished from view.  Whiteout!  Must stop.

This is terrible, SPHP!  We’ve over-stayed our welcome!  Keep going!

Can’t!  Can’t see a thing!  Stay close, Loop, or you’ll get lost!

Was a storm moving in?  The ferocity of the attack was numbing.  Lupe huddled at SPHP’s feet.  Hands were freezing.  Seemed interminable, but couldn’t have been more than a few minutes.  The worst was over.  Still in the fog, but suddenly the trail reappeared.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Looking back toward the E.
Along the S rim again. Photo looks W.

4:33 PM, South Sister, S rim – An hour and 38 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again by the little cairn marking where South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 reached the S rim.  Something had changed when that ferocious blast went through.  The air was colder.  No more glimpses of blue sky, or even of South Sister’s crater.  Lupe would never see it again.

A long way back.  Definitely time to go.  A last glance N into the fog where the crater should have been, and Loop started down.

By the small cairn (R) where Climber Trail No. 36 reaches the S rim. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was great!  So much easier going down!  Lupe trotted along a path of loose, red cinder in an otherwise gray world.  Losing hundreds of feet of elevation, she was already getting close to where the trail reached the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier before she escaped the cloud and could see again.

The Lewis Glacier (R), appears as Lupe descends from the cloud. Photo looks SSE.

Exhausted, yet the evening return was amazing and fun!  South Sister’s summit never did escape the cloud again, but beauty was all around.  Incredibly, Lupe had it all to herself, seeing no one at all.  The evening gloam was well advanced by the time Carolina Dog reached the deserted trailhead near Devils Lake.  (8:09 PM, 57ºF)

Alright, SPHP!  We did it!  Can please I have a chocolate coconut bar now?

South Sister, Cascade Range, Oregon 8-26-21

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GPS Track by Ben Sidhom (10-13-18)

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