November 2016 – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 180 – Warren Peaks, Bull Hill, Ragged Top & Lone Tree Hill (10-30-16)

Fog! Must be just a ground fog, though. Stars could still be seen above. With any luck at all, we’ll drive out of it, Loop. Lupe whined. She couldn’t see them, but she could smell ’em. Cows were hidden out there in the foggy darkness! The Carolina Dog barked, leaping from window to window trying to catch sight of them.

On the way up to Warren Peaks, the G6 did emerge from the fog. Lupe was going to get to see sunrise from the highest point in the Bear Lodge Mountains after all!

Sunrise from Warren Peaks. The dark outline of the Black Hills in South Dakota is on the horizon. Photo looks ESE.

It was cool and a bit windy when Lupe arrived up on Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) (7:18 AM, 38°F). For almost the end of October, conditions were actually exceptionally nice. Off to the ENE, Lupe could see a thin layer of very low clouds. That had to be part of the fog she’d gone through to get here. To the W, the Bear Lodge Mountains were acting like a dam, holding back a sea of more substantial low clouds.

Very low, thin clouds were in view to the ENE. They were part of the ground fog Lupe had traveled through to get here. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe on the highest rocks on the mountain near the Warren Peaks fire lookout tower.

Lupe and SPHP watched the sunrise develop. Just for fun, Lupe took a little stroll down to a slightly lower hill SE of the fire tower.

The Warren Peaks fire tower from the barren hill to the SE.

Lupe returned to the summit of Warren Peaks. Sunrise was taking longer than anticipated. The sun was above the horizon, but obscured by clouds. SPHP was still interested in watching the display, but Lupe was ready for action!

Lupe on a picnic table waiting for SPHP to lose interest in the sunrise. It was time to get going!

This was Lupe’s third expedition in a row to the Bear Lodge Mountains in NE Wyoming. Once again, she had 3 peakbagging goals for the day. The first one was Bull Hill, only a mile N of Warren Peaks.

The big rounded partly bare hill seen beyond Lupe is Bull Hill, Lupe’s first peakbagging goal on Expedition No. 180. This photo was taken a week before when Lupe visited Warren Peaks on Expedition No. 179. Photo looks N from Warren Peaks.

When SPHP finally quit dawdling watching the sunrise, Lupe and SPHP drove N on USFS Road No. 838. Before going to Bull Hill, SPHP wanted to check out a viewpoint a short distance NW of Warren Peaks, the same viewpoint where Lupe had seen Devils Tower and Missouri Buttes in twilight at the end of the day on Expedition No. 179. Now that it was morning, maybe it would be possible to get a clearer view? (7:49 AM, 38°F)

Heh. No view at all. The white sea of low clouds trapped to the W of the Bear Lodge Mountains blanketed all of the territory in that direction. Lupe and SPHP went on. SPHP parked the G6 near the intersection of USFS Roads No. 838 and No. 847 (8:06 AM, 38°F).

Getting to Bull Hill (6,394 ft.) was easy. Lupe trotted E down USFS Road No. 847 to a side road with a Bull Hill Road sign. She followed Bull Hill Road around the N side of a forested ridge, then SE up the Whitetail Creek valley. Bull Hill Road curved E, going up and over a saddle. At the saddle, Lupe was directly S of Bull Hill. She left the road, climbing up a pasture to the open forest at the top of the mountain.

Lupe on Bull Hill. The fire tower on Warren Peaks is seen in the distance. The cairn and pipe next to Lupe were a little W of the highest point on Bull Hill. Photo looks S.

Lupe stands near the highest point on Bull Hill. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe and SPHP explored the top of Bull Hill. Toward the E was a nice view of Crow Peak (5,787 ft.) in South Dakota, but Lupe had just seen essentially the same view from even higher Warren Peaks. After a short stay on Bull Hill, Lupe headed back to the G6 (9:31 AM, 45°F).

Lupe’s next peakbagging goal, Ragged Top, was back to the S a few miles, not really all that far away. After a short drive, SPHP parked the G6 at the intersection of USFS Road No. 838 and an unmarked road on the E side of No. 838. (This intersection is a few hundred feet N of the start of No. 838.1B on the W side of No. 838, and marked as 6,374 ft. elevation on the Peakbagger.com topo map.)

To get to Ragged Top (6,260 ft.), Lupe didn’t really have to gain any elevation at all. In fact, she would lose a little on the way there. Ragged Top is the high point at the SW end of a mile long ridge. The G6 was already parked near the higher NE end of the ridge. Lupe cut through the forest on the W side of USFS Road No. 838 to reach No. 838.1B. She followed the road SW toward Ragged Top.

Lupe on USFS Road No. 838.1B on her way to Ragged Top. Photo looks SW.

USFS Road No. 838.1B ended at a meadow at a high point. Lupe was more than half way to Ragged Top, but would have to do some bushwhacking from here. American Dingoes are great at bushwhacking! Lupe descended into a saddle leading to a lower forested hill along the ridge.

Lupe in the meadow where USFS Road No. 838.1B ended. She was a little over halfway to Ragged Top here. Next she had to descend into the saddle leading to the forested hill seen beyond her. That hill was part of the main ridgeline leading to Ragged Top, and where she would encounter the first significant rock outcroppings on the way. Photo looks SW.

The saddle area was forested, too. What’s more, the forest floor was densely carpeted with low juniper bushes. Lupe found easier traveling over less vegetated ground along the SE side of the ridge. When Lupe climbed up the forested hill on the SW side of the saddle, she reached the first significant rock outcroppings.

Lupe on the first significant rock outcropping she encountered on her way to Ragged Top. Photo looks SW.

From here on, the now undulating ridge to Ragged Top was much narrower than before. Lupe passed by, or went over, several more rock formations along the way. The last part of the ridge turned S as Lupe approached the final high point – the small summit known as Ragged Top. Soon Lupe was surveying the situation from the top of Ragged Top.

Lupe surveys the world from the top of Ragged Top! Photo looks N.

The best views were actually from rocks farther S where the ridge ended. Lupe could see both Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) and Sundance Mountain (5,824 ft.) beyond a bank of clouds sneaking out to the E from the sea of clouds to the W.

Sundance Mountain (L just beyond the clouds). Photo looks SE.

Lupe was still at the S viewpoint, when a sudden loud explosion echoed up from the valley below! Gunfire! Lupe ran to SPHP. That was it for the photo session. More gunfire rang out every few minutes. No way Lupe was letting SPHP get more than a foot away. The final photo of the Ragged Top summit, taken from the S, had to be Lupe-less.

S face of the Ragged Top summit. There was supposed to be a courageous Carolina Dog poised dramatically atop the highest rocks, but loud gunfire put an end to that notion. Photo looks N.

Lupe had made it to Ragged Top, but she didn’t want to be there now! With gunfire going on sporadically, all she wanted to do was hide. Time to get the Carolina Dog out of here! SPHP led the way back to the G6.

When Lupe reached the forested saddle again, she decided to slink along hidden pathways between the low juniper bushes that dominated the forest floor. In this manner, she slunk along all by herself clear up to the edge of the meadow where USFS Road No. 838.1B had ended. As far as the American Dingo was concerned, her slinking worked just fine! Lupe didn’t get shot. Not even once.

At the meadow, Lupe and SPHP took a break. Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, so SPHP could pet her and hold her. This was most reassuring. It certainly helped that the gunfire stopped, too. Lupe and SPHP shared a chocolate coconut granola bar. Things were looking up! Things were also looking like a mess. SPHP noticed Lupe treasures scattered along the edge of the forest.

Cleanup ensued. As Lupe and SPHP continued back to the G6, more Lupe treasures were encountered, this time in the form of empty shotgun shells. By the time Lupe was back at the G6 (12:07 PM, 55°F), she had two grocery sacks full of treasures.

Warren Peaks from near USFS Road No. 838.1B on the way back to the G6. Photo looks N.

Lupe had one more peakbagging goal for Expedition No. 180, but it was a long way N from here. On the way, Lupe and SPHP stopped again (12:15 PM, 55°F) at the viewpoint NW of Warren Peaks where she had seen Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) and Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.) a week ago.

The clouds were gone! Devils Tower and Missouri Buttes were in view to the NW. The air was rather hazy, but it was much easier to see them now than at sundown last week.

Devils Tower and Missouri Buttes from the viewpoint NW of Warren Peaks. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe had a great time in the G6 traveling N to start her journey to her 3rd and final peakbagging goal of the day. She rode with her head out the window, with the wind in her face. She saw lots of deer in the forest, plus cows to bark at near Hwy 24.

When SPHP finally parked the G6 (1:17 PM, 61°F) again, Lupe recognized this place. She had been here before. She was at the intersection of Planting Spring Road (USFS Road No. 881.1) and USFS Road No. 830. Two weeks ago on Expedition No. 178, she had stumbled onto this junction on her way to Bald Mountain (4,800 ft.). Now it was the starting point for her journey to Lone Tree Hill (4,600 ft.).

The first part of Lupe’s route to Lone Tree Hill she had already been on before. Lupe and SPHP set out going WNW on USFS Road No. 881.1. Almost right away, Lupe passed by a rather elaborate tent and camper setup on the N side of the road. Several guys planning on going deer hunting occupied the camp.

Once past the hunters, Lupe had a blast running around in the woods along No. 881.1. She made good time to the intersection with USFS Road No. 881.1A, which leads to Bald Mountain. Lupe did not take the turn to Bald Mountain, staying instead on No. 881.1. The road quickly turned N.

No. 881.1 eventually angled NW for a while. When it finally turned W, Lupe could see sky between trees at the far end of a slight rise ahead. Lupe was about to reach the W edge of the large flat ridge she had been traveling along. Lone Tree Hill (4,600 ft.) was supposed to be off to the NW beyond the edge of the ridge. Would she be able to see it?

The Peakbagger.com topo map showed No. 881.1 ending (near elevation 4,768 ft.) before reaching the edge of the ridge. The road didn’t actually end. Instead, it curved SW on its way down to a somewhat lower area. Lupe and SPHP left the road going W through the forest, and up the slight rise.

Lupe reaches the W edge of the big, relatively flat ridge she had been traveling. This photo looks SW, the only direction with a relatively clear view. Devils Tower is seen faintly on the horizon above Lupe’s ear. Missouri Buttes are on the R.

Lupe arrived at the edge of a N/S running line of small cliffs. There weren’t any discernable breaks in the cliff line. Due to the forest, the only relatively clear view was off toward the SW, where Lupe could see Devils Tower and Missouri Buttes on the far horizon.

It was hard to see between the trees, but there did seem to be a large hill off to the NW where Lone Tree Hill should be. That had to be it! Lone Tree Hill appeared to be poorly named. Although some of the slopes below the line of rock at the summit were bare or sparsely forested, there were plenty of trees on Lone Tree Hill.

Aptly named or not, from a distance Lone Tree Hill looked like an easy climb. There was one problem, though. Lone Tree Hill stood off by itself a mile NW of the ridge Lupe was on. How could Lupe get safely down off these cliffs to cross the low ground between here and there?

The topo map showed only one semi-promising route nearby. A ravine to the NE trended W to the lower ground Lupe needed to reach. SPHP hesitated. No. 881.1 had turned SW where Lupe had left it, heading down toward lower territory, too. Maybe the road would take Lupe safely down below the cliffs? That might be a lot easier than bushwhacking through a steep ravine!

Lupe and SPHP left the cliff edge to return to No. 881.1. Once there, Lupe followed it SW. The road lost some elevation, but then started to level out and turn S. It looked like it was going to continue S, staying above a band of cliffs. Hmmm. Not good. Lupe left the road briefly, entering a small ravine leading W. No dice. The ravine quickly cliffed out. The drop was only 15 or 20 feet. Didn’t matter, it may as well have been 10 times that much.

OK. The ravine to the NE really was the only reasonable possibility. Of course, there must be other routes, but they would all be significantly longer. Lupe had made good time getting to the cliffs. Even so, it was late enough in the day so the amount of time left before sunset was something to keep in mind. The afternoon was clouding up. It wouldn’t be a good idea to still be wandering around in a trackless forest trying to find and bushwhack back up a steep ravine after dark, especially with no moon or stars to help stay oriented.

Better get a move on! Lupe and SPHP headed back up the road. Lupe regained all her lost elevation, before leaving the road again to go try the ravine to the NE. The ravine started out fine. Gradually, Lupe lost elevation again. She found an animal trail to follow. Rock formations appeared on the slopes of the ravine, but Lupe didn’t come to any cliffs on the way W.

The NE ravine route worked! Lupe lost over 400 feet of elevation. She found herself safely down in a tall grove of white-barked aspens where the ground leveled out. She was actually having a great time exploring this remote forest. SPHP was confident Lupe was going to successfully climb Lone Tree Hill now!

Lupe had been going W down the ravine. Now it was time to turn NW. The tall aspens gave way to a forest of scrub oak. Lupe romped around among fallen leaves looking for squirrels in the oak trees. She found several squirrels, much to her delight and the squirrels’ annoyance. Sometimes scrub oaks grow in dense clusters, but this forest was more open than that. It wasn’t hard to move around. Lupe was making great progress again.

Lupe turned N upon reaching a long saddle leading to Lone Tree Hill’s S Ridge. By climbing the S ridge, Lupe could get to the lower E end of Lone Tree Hill’s summit ridge. As Lupe progressed along the saddle, she encountered areas of open ground interspersed between stands of forest.

Lupe was making progress! As she got to the saddle leading to Lone Tree Hill’s S ridge, she came to this view of Lone Tree Hill up ahead. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe reached the S ridge. Her climb up Lone Tree Hill was about to begin in earnest. She immediately encountered a new obstacle. The scrub oak forest was now behind her, and the S ridge leading up was all pine forest. At least it had been. The pine forest was devastated!

A tangle of dead trees, most laying perpendicular to Lupe’s route, was blocking the way forward. It looked like a tornado had hit this place! The trunks of many trees had simply snapped.

As Lupe started her climb up the S ridge, her route was blocked by a devastated pine forest.

Progress became excruciatingly slow, as Lupe and SPHP struggled over, under, and around the deadfall timber. Fortunately, the S ridge wasn’t very long. Lupe only had to gain 200 feet of elevation to reach the lower E end of Lone Tree Hill’s summit ridge. This was taking forever, though! SPHP started to worry about how much time was going by.

Slowly, ever so slowly, Lupe and SPHP picked a way up through the shattered forest. “Lone Tree” Hill, indeed! If, only! That “Lone Tree” term had been used rather loosely, hadn’t it? As in, “Lone Tree” means less than 10,000 trees. Silly SPHP had been expecting like, maybe, one tree – perhaps a few more, if one counted little trees springing up around the big one. Not this! Who had named this place, anyway? Must have been an Indian 300 years ago. The name hadn’t been justified in at least that long.

As Lupe starting getting close to the E ridge, the deadfall gradually diminished. Then, finally, she was out of it. Hallelujah! Lupe reached the lower E end of Lone Tree Hill’s summit ridge. The top of the mountain was in view not too far to the W.

Lupe reaches the lower E section of Lone Tree Hill's main E/W trending summit ridge. The top of the mountain is in view to the W. Photo looks W. — Lupe reaches the lower E section of Lone Tree Hill’s main E/W trending summit ridge. The top of the mountain is in view to the W. Photo looks W.

Getting closer! There was actually a fair amount of deadfall timber near the top of Lone Tree Hill, but nothing like what Lupe had already come through on the S ridge.

Lupe started making good progress again. She headed for the higher W portion of Lone Tree Hill’s summit ridge. Near the top, she encountered more deadfall timber. The deadfall slowed SPHP down, but not Lupe. Lupe went straight to the top of the mountain. She had made it! Lupe stood on the summit of Lone Tree Hill.

Lupe reaches the summit of Lone Tree Hill! Photo looks SE in the direction she came from to get here. The ravine she came down along the distant ridge is a bit hard to see from this angle, but is almost directly above her. Just to the L of that ravine is the part of the big flat ridge where the Peakbagger.com topo map shows High Point 4801.

The true summit of Lone Tree Hill was a bit W of where Lupe had come up. The mountain featured a band of rock and very small cliffs along the S edge of the summit ridge. Views toward the S were generally quite good. By moving around the summit, it was possible to see a long way in almost any direction.

The S edge of the summit ridge featured a band of very small orange-yellow cliffs. Photo looks ESE toward High Point 4801 (R).

The top of Lone Tree Hill had some deadfall timber, but it wasn’t too bad. Photo looks E.

The far W end of the summit ridge was a bit lower than the rest of it, but had hardly any trees. Lupe had a 270° panoramic view from here! It was a great place to take a break, and celebrate Lupe’s final peakbagging success of the day.

Lupe reaches the far W end of the Lone Tree Hill summit ridge. She had 270° panoramic views from here. Missouri Buttes are on the far horizon directly above Lupe. The top of Devils Tower pokes above the forested ridge on the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe and SPHP shared water and chocolate coconut granola bars. Lupe had her Taste of the Wild. SPHP consumed an apple. The sun was getting lower, but Lupe would have time to get back to the road before dark. Actually, it was getting hard to even tell where the sun was. The sky, which had been at least partly sunny and blue in the morning, was now a boring, indistinct, gray smudge in almost every direction.

Lupe lingered on Lone Tree Hill as long as possible. Best to enjoy the moment! Lone Tree Hill was the type of small peakbagging objective that Lupe might well never ever return to again. It was sort of far from home, sort of hard to get to, and there are higher and more dramatic places to go.

Yet, being on Lone Tree Hill was great! The sweeping views of the wide open spaces, forested hills, and long dark ridges of remote NE Wyoming were wonderful. And even if the pine trees weren’t alone on Lone Tree Hill, Lupe and SPHP were. The solitude and serenity was unbroken, except by the distant mooing of cattle and occasional twittering of small birds. Lone Tree Hill was good for the spirit.

As it always does, the time came to start for home. No devastated S ridge for Lupe this time, though! It would be much easier to head right on down the mostly barren S slope of the mountain from the W end of the summit ridge. Lupe was ready. The return trip was something to look forward to, too!

Lupe starts down Lone Tree Hill, eager for more adventures on the long way back to the G6.

The busy American Dingo made the most of the return trip. She stopped frequently on her way down the mountain to scan the scene below. She streaked across meadows, sniffed around in forests, barked at squirrels, saw some deer, found and climbed back up the ravine onto the big ridge, ultimately returning to USFS Road No. 881.1. She traveled the road in fading light, as the forest darkened and grew more mysterious around her.

Lupe on her way back from Lone Tree Hill. Photo looks N.

The deer hunters were in their big tent, talking and laughing, when Lupe passed by again. Brightly glowing light escaped the tent at various openings. Smoke drifted out a black smokestack. Sounded like good times going on inside.

The hunters didn’t see the American Dingo trot by. She was almost to the G6 (6:09 PM, 54°F), her day’s adventures nearly over, destined for a long ride home to a late Alpo dinner, warm bed, and sweet dreams of a day spent alive and free in the Bear Lodge Mountains of Wyoming.

Lupe on the way back, in the scrub oak forest SE of Lone Tree Hill. — In the scrub oak forest SE of Lone Tree Hill.

Note: Lupe treasures gathered on Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 180 included 19 aluminum cans, 9 plastic bottles, 3 glass bottles, 48 shotgun shells.

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The Salmon Glacier near Hyder, Alaska (8-5-16)

Day 7 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Lupe and SPHP hit the road again early (6:20 AM), still heading NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. A cool, light rain fell under overcast skies. Lupe was happy. Vast forests continued to dominate, but every now and then the Carolina Dog had an opportunity to bark at cows or horses in fields near the road. The miles flew by.

The day seemed to be getting darker, instead of brighter, when Lupe passed through Smithers in rain and fog. High mountains were close to Smithers, the first high mountains Lupe had seen since before reaching Prince George yesterday. Lupe was approaching adventure territory once again!

On the way to New Hazelton, the rain stopped. The skies started clearing. It was going to be a bright day after all! After passing through New Hazelton, Yellowhead Highway No. 16 turned SW for a while. Lupe and SPHP stopped for a short break at Sealy Lake. A sign told of an ancient water-grizzly named Medeek.

This plaque at Sealy Lake tells of the ancient water-grizzly Medeek.

Lupe went down to Sealy Lake. The lake was a small one with reeds near the shore. Impressive mountains were near Sealy Lake to the SE, but they weren’t what held SPHP’s interest. Across Sealy Lake, mountains with large snowfields on them were seen in the distance to the W. Before Lupe reached those mountains, she would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

Lupe at Sealy Lake. Before she reached the mountains seen in the distance beyond the lake, Lupe would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37. Photo looks W.

A little later on, Lupe was there, at the junction. Getting to the Cassiar Highway No. 37 was kind of a big deal. The Cassiar was going to be Lupe’s road to adventure!

Lupe at a sign near the junction of Yellowhead Highway No. 16, which she had been following ever since leaving Jasper in Alberta, and the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

Lupe about to head N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

As Lupe and SPHP traveled N on Cassiar Highway No. 37, mountains and forests soon took over completely. Gone were the fields of haystacks, cows and horses. The highway went by beautiful lakes and rivers. Lupe missed the cows and horses, and eventually fell asleep.

At Meziadin Junction, SPHP turned W on Hwy 37A, a 61 km spur road to Stewart, British Columbia. Along the way, Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier.

Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier across Strohn Lake from Hwy 37A on the way to Stewart. Photo looks SW.

The Bear Glacier with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Farther on, Hwy 37A crossed a bridge over the Bear River just before entering the small border town of Stewart, British Columbia. The Bear River valley was impressive. Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 to take a look.

Lupe near Stewart, British Columbia. Photo looks N up the impressive Bear River valley.

Stewart is a small town at the end of the Portland Canal, a long narrow arm (a fjord, essentially) of the Pacific Ocean. Only 3 km from Stewart, Lupe entered the even smaller town of Hyder, Alaska. Alaska became Lupe’s 12th US Dingo State!

Hyder, Alaska has two main attractions, other than being on the Portland Canal. A few miles N of Hyder is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site. For $5 per day, visitors can view wildlife from a raised wooden observation platform along Fish Creek. Wild bears feeding on salmon in Fish Creek are the big draw.

Although Lupe would have loved barking ferociously at grizzly bears from the safety of a raised platform, this would no doubt have been frowned upon by the park service and every other site visitor. Nevertheless, SPHP stopped briefly at the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site to ask directions to Hyder’s other main attraction, the Salmon Glacier.

The directions were easy. Just keep following the road past the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site. About 16 miles from Hyder, the road reaches an observation point with a tremendous view overlooking the Salmon Glacier. Interestingly, although the road through Hyder, Alaska and past Fish Creek provides the only access to the Salmon Glacier, the glacier itself is actually a short distance over the Canadian border in British Columbia.

The sky was crystal clear blue as Lupe and SPHP drove up the gravel road. The road went N following the Salmon River valley, climbing ever higher up on the mountain slopes on the E side of the valley. Traffic was surprisingly heavy, and raised long-lingering clouds of dust. There were numerous small pullouts at viewpoints along the way. Finally, the Salmon Glacier came into view.

The Salmon Glacier comes into view from the road to the main viewpoint. A helicopter is seen flying up the valley. Photo looks N.

Impressive as it is, this first part of the glacier to come into view is only a small part of the whole Salmon Glacier.

The S tongue of the Salmon Glacier which came into view first was impressive, but is only a small part of the entire glacier. The scene became more and more amazing as Lupe neared the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint.

The main viewpoint was crowded when Lupe arrived. A dozen vehicles were parked along the road and in a small parking area. Two dozen or more people were milling around checking out the view. Lupe and SPHP ignored the dust and commotion, as much as possible. Lupe waited for a turn up on a small rise with a panoramic glacier view.

Wow! The Salmon Glacier was absolutely stunning! The huge white glacier, streaked with dark gray rock and tinges of blue, flows down a high wide valley surrounded by mountains straight toward the viewpoint. Hundreds of feet below, the giant glacier splits into a forked tongue. The larger end flows S (L) down the Salmon River valley. The smaller N (R) end flows into a depression filled earlier in the year by Summit Lake.

Lupe at the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint near the highest point on the access road. Photo looks W.

The Salmon Glacier is in British Columbia, Canada, although the only access road to this amazing viewpoint goes through Hyder, Alaska.

The Salmon Glacier was a glorious sight! What wasn’t glorious was how busy the main viewpoint was. Vehicles kept coming and going raising all kinds of dust. A road which goes 10 miles farther past the main viewpoint, was closed for construction. Construction equipment made more dust and noise as it rumbled by. Several helicopters flew back and forth, apparently in connection with the construction.

A two year old tyrant among the throng of tourists had learned to screech commands every 20 or 30 seconds at his willingly subservient parents. A grandma in the same family pleaded with 2 older girls to please come and stand by her for a photo. After all, grandma had bought them lots of nice things, hadn’t she? With nothing new in it for them, the girls pouted and declined to have anything to do with grandma.

Lupe loved one part of all these goings on – the helicopters! Lupe loves helicopters. In particular, she loves to run below them barking furiously to chase them away. With all the helicopters buzzing around, Lupe was only adding to the general tumult.

Several helicopters kept flying around near the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint, apparently in connection with road construction. Lupe loves barking at helicopters! The American Dingo’s frantic yelping only added to the annoying din at the main viewpoint.

Fortunately, SPHP remembered reading online that there is an unmaintained trail going up the mountainside to the E of the Salmon Glacier viewpoint. The views would be even more spectacular up there! Lupe could bark at helicopters all she wanted to, far from the crowd. Lupe and SPHP left the little parking lot (1:51 PM, 66°F), quickly finding several informal trails winding up the mountainside.

Making the climb above the parking lot was a great decision. As Lupe and SPHP gained hundreds of feet of elevation, the noise, dust, brats and general commotion at the main viewpoint faded away. Helicopters still flew by, even closer than down below, greatly entertaining Lupe. She raced around barking for all she was worth, not bothering anyone.

Lupe and SPHP stopped for short breaks on a couple of hills hundreds feet above the road. Peace and tranquility reigned. Missing these incredible views from on high would have been a shame!

The upper end of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.

Lupe atop one of the two hills where she took her first short breaks. Photo looks SW.

Looking NW now. Part of the N tongue of the Salmon Glacier is seen below.

Fields of flowers watered by tiny streams and ponds were in view beyond the small hills where Lupe took her first short breaks. When her breaks were done, Lupe went SSE exploring this vibrant, colorful territory. She climbed even higher up to a massive knob of rock where she found a big cairn. To the SE, Lupe could see the snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth (5,446 ft.).

Lupe in the fields of flowers on her way to the knob of rock seen on the L. Photo looks SE.

Wildflowers on the slopes of Mount Dilworth.

Lupe on the rock knob. The snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth is in view. Photo looks SE.

Lupe on the highest rock knob she visited on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks N.

The Salmon Glacier as viewed from the highest rock knob Lupe reached on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Lupe stands by the big cairn she found here. Photo looks W.

The upper end of the Salmon Glacier as seen from Lupe’s highest point of advance up Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.

Salmon Glacier ice viewed through the telephoto lens.

From the rock knob, the views were amazing, not only toward the Salmon Glacier, but in every direction. The day was very warm and sunny. Conditions were ideal. For a little while, SPHP toyed with the idea of climbing Mount Dilworth with Lupe. It looked easy, but maybe the huge snowfield at the top was actually quite dangerous? Falling into a crevasse would be the end. Best to leave it alone.

So Lupe made no attempt to climb Mount Dilworth, despite how tempting it looked. Instead, the Carolina Dog had fun among flowers, fields, and streams on the way back down to the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint along the road. The return trip was a wonderful time full of beautiful sights.

Lupe on the way back down the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks NW.

Yes, this is what Dingo Vacations are all about!

Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W.

When Lupe reached the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint back at the road, a new bit of excitement was going on. Someone had accidentally dropped their camera far down a steep slope, and attempting to retrieve it, managed to get themselves stuck in a precarious position. A rescue operation was in progress.

While everyone else was gathered in one spot talking about the rescue, Lupe and SPHP walked over to a hill offering a better view of the N tongue of the glacier. Every year, typically in mid-July, this part of the Salmon Glacier unleashes a major natural hazard.

In spring and early summer, Summit Lake forms from meltwaters backed up by an ice-dam at the N end of the glacier. As temperatures warm, Summit Lake eventually breaks through the ice-dam. The lake then drains to the S beneath the Salmon Glacier, flooding the Salmon River where water levels rise suddenly by 4 or 5 feet for several days.

Since it was August, Summit Lake had already broken through the ice-dam and drained away. Lupe could still see where Summit Lake had been, though. A small area of gray green water remained at the bottom of a depression surrounded by collapsed ice and snow. The former high water level was easy to see on the side of the mountain above.

Lupe saw this view of the gray green waters surrounded by collapsed snow and ice remaining after the natural draining of Summit Lake under the Salmon Glacier in July. It’s easy to see the typical high water line of Summit Lake along the base of the mountain slope on the L. Photo looks NW.

Collapsed snow and ice around the remains of Summit Lake.

Lupe’s visit to the Salmon Glacier had been a most memorable occasion, but it was time to move on (4:07 PM, 76°F). Lupe and SPHP made a few more stops at viewpoints on the way back to Hyder while the glorious Salmon Glacier was still in view.

Looking WNW at the huge sweeping curve of the Salmon Glacier for the last time.

S tongue of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks N.

On the way back to Hyder, the G6 said the temperature hit an incredible 84°F outside. SPHP fretted uselessly about the ultimate fate of the Salmon Glacier. Things cooled off closer to Hyder, perhaps influenced by the nearby presence of the ocean.

Lupe hadn’t seen the ocean since visiting the Washington and Oregon coasts during her Summer of 2012 Dingo Vacation nearly 4 years ago. So when Lupe got back to Hyder, Alaska, SPHP drove her over to the end of the wharf to see the Portland Canal.

Lupe stands on a bench at the end of the wharf in Hyder, Alaska. Beyond her is the Portland Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. This was the first time Lupe had seen the ocean since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. Photo looks SW.

Looking NE from Hyder, Alaska toward Stewart, British Columbia at the end of the Portland Canal.

Lupe’s adventure to Hyder, Alaska and the Salmon Glacier was done. Lupe and SPHP went back through Canadian customs returning to Stewart in British Columbia. Although it was late afternoon already, the long Canadian summer days meant there were still hours of daylight left.

Lupe and SPHP left Stewart taking Hwy 37A back past the Bear Glacier to Meziadin Junction. After gassing the G6 up, Lupe’s long journey N on Cassiar Highway No. 37 resumed. Each mile took the Carolina Dog farther N than she had ever been before.

Daylight was fading by the time Lupe crossed a big bridge over a river that looked like it was running very low. Beyond the bridge was the Bell 1 rest stop. SPHP pulled in. Time for a quick dinner before dark. For some reason, Lupe wanted to stay in the G6. Was she just tired, or was it true?

A guy from Dease Lake had been talking to SPHP. He said his big brown dog sensed bears nearby, and claimed these woods were full of bears. He also talked about how the weather was changing. Last winter this area had received only 4 feet of snow. Ten years ago, typical total winter snowfall used to be 15 meters (49 feet). Another bad sign for the Salmon Glacier.

Well, that’s why we are here now, Looper! To see it all while fate and fortune still smile upon us, and these fabulous natural wonders of the world remain.

The Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth.

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Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 179 – Warren Peaks, Black Hills, Sherrard Hill & Cook Lake (10-23-16)

Hah! How’s this for peakbagging the easy way, Loop? SPHP turned off the engine. The G6 was parked at the base of the Warren Peaks fire lookout tower (8:23 AM, 38°F). Lupe was already at the top of the mountain. Feels like cheating, doesn’t it? We didn’t have to do a thing. Come on, Looper, lets take a look around! Lupe was out of the G6 like a shot.

Lupe arrives at the base of the Warren Peaks, WY fire lookout tower.

Lupe near the Warren Peaks fire lookout tower. Photo looks WNW.

A light S breeze was blowing. Clear skies and another unseasonably warm October day. The panoramic views were terrific. The Warren Peaks (6,656 ft.) fire lookout tower is atop the highest point in the Bear Lodge Mountains in NE Wyoming. Lupe gazed out over miles and miles of high prairie far beyond the mountains.

When the light is right and the air is clear, you can see all the way to the Bighorn Mountains from here Loop! The light wasn’t right. A bit of haze was in the air. Oh, well.

Looking SSW from Warren Peaks, the highest mountain in the Bear Lodge Mountains. The tower on the L is on High Point 6532.

Although Lupe was back to continue her peakbagging adventures in the Bear Lodge Mountains, Warren Peaks (6,656 ft.) wasn’t really one of her prime peakbagging goals for Expedition No. 179. Lupe had been here twice before. Warren Peaks was just a great viewpoint from which to start the day, conveniently located on the way to other objectives she’d never been to before.

Before leaving this terrific vantage point, SPHP stared off to the N trying to pick out Vision Peak (4,812 ft.) or Bald Mountain (4,800 ft.), where Lupe had been adventuring a week ago. Nothing really stood out that SPHP could positively identify. Neither did any of today’s objectives. Most of the Bear Lodge Mountains just aren’t that rugged.

The big rounded hill seen beyond Lupe is Bull Hill. Photo looks N.

Bull Hill with a little help from the telephoto lens. Studying this photo after the fact, SPHP is 98.43% certain that Bald Mountain, where Lupe had been a week ago, is at the far L end of the most distant dark ridge seen on the R. (Not the faint ridge on the horizon.) Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP left Warren Peaks headed N on USFS Road No. 838. At 9:04 AM (39°F), Lupe was leaping out of the G6 again, this time at the junction of USFS Roads No. 849 and 849.1A. Lupe had two peakbagging objectives nearby. They were two summits called the Black Hills. (Not to be confused with the entire Black Hills range, which is hard not to do, since the identical names make it plenty confusing.)

Lupe set off for the Black Hills (East) (5,229 ft.) summit first, climbing toward the S in territory W of the N ridge. At first, she encountered thickets of brush and small trees in a forest of mixed pine and aspen. As Lupe gained elevation, the pines prevailed and most of the smaller stuff disappeared. The terrain was unusually lumpy. Lupe went up a series of small rises separated by little ravines or low spots. Deer seemed to like this area, and Lupe saw quite a few of them.

The Black Hills (East) summit ridge runs roughly NW/SE. Lupe reached a lower part of the ridgeline a bit WNW of a protruding rock outcropping of yellowish tan limestone, or perhaps sandstone. This rock formation proved to be quite level on top, and runs the entire length of the summit ridge, which was hundreds of feet long. Toward the SW, the rocks form a line of small cliffs.

Lupe sits on the yellowish tan limestone or sandstone rock outcropping at the NW end of the Black Hills (East) summit ridge.

From the NW end of the Black Hills (East) summit ridge, Lupe could see Black Hills (West) (5,323 ft.). Black Hills (West) is almost 100 feet higher than Black Hills (East). Lupe would be going over there next, but not until she finished exploring Black Hills (East).

Looking W toward the Black Hills (West) summit from the NW end of the Black Hills (East) summit ridge.

Lupe and SPHP traveled SE along the entire length of the Black Hills (East) summit ridge, staying near the line of cliffs. Forest effectively hid the views in every direction, other than SW from the cliffs. Even looking SW, higher forested ridges only a mile or two away were as far as Lupe could see.

Lupe at another viewpoint along the cliffs. Black Hills (West) is in view on the R. The scene seen here is typical of the only semi-distant views available from Black Hills (East). Photo looks W.

Close to the SE end of the Black Hills E summit ridge, a small pine tree was perched near the edge of the cliffs. Ponderosa pines can grow in some of the most amazing places. The little tree looked like it was growing straight out of the rocks!

Lupe near the SE end of the Black Hills (East) summit ridge. A small pine tree was growing right out of the rocks at the edge of the cliffs. Photo looks S.

The Black Hills (East) summit ridge was long, on the order of 800 feet long. Having traveled the entire length of the ridge near the cliffs, it was time for Lupe to look for the true summit. Since the entire area was quite flat, there wasn’t going to be any one easily identifiable point.

Although there was only a slight elevation difference, the highest area Lupe could find on Black Hills (East) seemed to be back closer to the middle of the summit ridge. A somewhat elevated area was 50 to 100 feet NE of the cliffs. This high ground was covered by a dense thicket of scrub oak trees. Lupe had no views at all from here!

Lupe in the scrub oak thicket at the true summit (as near as she could find one) of Black Hills (East).

Having achieved her first peakbagging success of the day at Black Hills (East), it was time for Lupe to head for Black Hills (West). To get there, she first had to go back down to the G6.

Lupe roughly retraced the same route she had taken up. The many deer held Lupe’s attention much of the time, but she also found an interesting column of rock out in the middle of the forest. Strangely enough, someone had drawn an odd face on it.

Lupe at a big column of rock she discovered going back down Black Hills (East). Although the column of rock was in an unlikely spot for visitors out in the middle of the forest, someone had drawn an odd face on it (seen right above Lupe in white).

Lupe reached the G6 at 10:36 AM. She was surprised and puzzled when SPHP went right on by it. However, her next peakbagging goal, Black Hills (West) was not far away.

Lupe and SPHP crossed USFS Road No. 849 and went down to Blacktail Creek. Lupe reached the tiny creek near a tiny waterfall. Of course, she paused for a not-so-tiny drink from the creek as she crossed it, prior to beginning her climb up Black Hills (West).

Near the tiny waterfall on Blacktail Creek.

Lupe’s path up Black Hills (West) was very direct. She simply followed the long NE ridge, staying on the ridgeline a little above the cliffs to the SE. Lupe’s entire climb was steadily up at a moderate pace. As Lupe neared the summit, she found a big grassy meadow at the top of the mountain. SPHP hoped the views would be better here than from Black Hills (East).

Lupe on top of Black Hills (West). Photo looks SSW.

The summit of Black Hills (West) was a grassy meadow. Photo looks SSW.

Unfortunately, the views from Black Hills (West) were rather disappointing. The mountain wasn’t quite high enough for a good look at the most interesting sight. Off to the WNW, Lupe had only a partial view of the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.) and top of Devils Tower (5,112 ft.).

Black Hills (West) wasn’t quite high enough for a good look at Missouri Buttes and Devils Tower. Photo looks WNW.

Missouri Buttes (R) and the top of Devils Tower (L) from Black Hills (West). Photo looks WNW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP wandered around the Black Hills (West) summit area for a little while, seeing what could be seen, before taking a break. After the break, it was photo op time for Lupe before beginning the descent.

The Black Hills (West) summit as seen from the SW.

Lupe relaxes during her break time. She looks a bit serious here.

The Black Hills (West) summit. Photo looks SW.

A happy Carolina Dog on the summit of Black Hills (West) having a good time in the Bear Lodge Mountains of NE Wyoming.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 (12:01 PM) going back down the NE ridge of Black Hills (West). Lupe had one more peakbagging goal for Expedition No. 179, Sherrard Hill. Sherrard Hill (5,385 ft.) is a little higher than Black Hills (West). SPHP had hopes that Lupe might find better views from Sherrard Hill than either of the two Black Hills summits had on offer.

SPHP drove a couple miles NNW on USFS Road No. 849 to its junction with USFS Road No. 860.1, before parking the G6 (12:09 PM, 57°F). Lupe would start her trek to Sherrard Hill from here.

Much of Lupe’s journey to Sherrard Hill followed USFS Roads. She started out going S on No. 860.1, which soon crossed Blacktail Creek. Lupe came to many forks in the road. At the first one, Lupe stayed to the R, avoiding side road No. 860.1A. At the next junction, where an unmarked road to the L went down to a bridge across Hershey Creek, she stayed to the R again on a road marked as Trail No. 1042.

A week ago when Lupe had been to the Bear Lodge Mountains on Expedition No. 178, there had still been some fall colors on display. By Expedition No. 179, however, nearly all of the trees were bare. There were a few exceptions, however. Lupe saw these red berries and yellow leaves while following USFS Road No. 860.1 on the way to Sherrard Hill.

At a third junction, Lupe stayed to the R again, now following USFS Road No. 860.1F.

Lupe reaches USFS Road No. 860.1F, which was closed to motor vehicles. Photo looks S.

While on No. 860.1F, Lupe and SPHP kept hearing geese. Finally, a flock of them flew by almost right overhead. The geese were so high, Lupe didn’t pay much attention to them.

Geese flew by almost right overhead. Photo looks, umm, up using the telephoto lens.

As Lupe got closer to Sherrard Hill, she kept coming to more forks in the road. She avoided taking USFS Roads No. 860.1R (to the R) or No. 860.1J (to the L). The road she was on eventually turned W going up a valley. When Lupe reached a saddle at the upper end of the valley, SPHP was pretty certain Sherrard Hill was the wooded hill immediately to the S.

Lupe stuck with the road she was on as it circled around to the NW side of Sherrard Hill. She passed by USFS Road No. 860.1G on the way. By now, the road Lupe was following had leveled out. Lupe and SPHP turned SE and started climbing.

The climb up Sherrard Hill (5,385 ft.) was along quite a gentle slope. The hill was heavily forested all the way up. The summit area was large, and all heavily forested, too. Lupe and SPHP went all the way to the SE end of the summit area. There was little to be seen, but forest anywhere.

The top of Sherrard Hill. There was little to be seen except for the forest. Photo looks N.

Well, that was it. None of Lupe’s 3 main peakbagging objectives of the day had provided much in the way of views, and Sherrard Hill, the highest of them all, had no views at all. Sometimes that’s just the way it is in the mountains.

Lupe and SPHP took a short break for chocolate coconut granola bars and water at the SE end of the summit area. Then Lupe got to explore the Sherrard Hill summit looking for the highest point. Just like on Black Hills (East), the top of the mountain was so flat, it was hard to pin down an exact location of the true summit. Once again, it appeared to be in a thick grove of scrub oaks.

Lupe among the scrub oaks at the true summit of Sherrard Hill. Photo looks E.

Lupe exploring the summit area on Sherrard Hill. Photo looks NNE.

Before completely abandoning Sherrard Hill to return to the G6, Lupe and SPHP wandered over to a slightly lower part of the mountain protruding to the W from the N end of the summit area. From here, Lupe did catch a couple of glimpses of Missouri Buttes, but never had a really good look.

Lupe and SPHP continued NW to High Point 5255, but other than a ranch house to the W, there was nothing to see there either. OK, that was it. Time to give up and go back to the G6. Lupe had a great time on the way back. She saw many deer, and several squirrels.

On the way back to the G6 from Sherrard Hill, Lupe saw many deer in the woods. This one was out in the open near Hershey Creek.

When Lupe arrived at the G6 again (3:43 PM, 57°F), it was only a little over 2 hours until sundown. Time enough to do something, but not go off climbing another mountain. Since Lupe had never seen Cook Lake before, why not go see the little lake?

The Cook Lake Recreation Area features a campground, picnic area, loop trail around the lake, and another loop trail N of the lake called the Cliff Swallow trail. Lupe arrived at Cook Lake (4:16 PM, 53°F) too late to both spend time at the lake and take the Cliff Swallow trail. Since the main purpose was to see Cook Lake, Lupe stuck to the lakeshore trail.

Lupe arrives at Cook Lake, the only lake in the Bear Lodge Mountains. Photo looks S.

Lupe on her way around Cook Lake. Photo looks SE.

Nearing the S end of the lake. Photo looks SE.

Cook Lake from the S shore. Photo looks N.

Lupe on the lakeshore trail. Photo looks NW.

Although there had been a few people around when Lupe first arrived at Cook Lake, by the time Lupe completed her investigations along the shore (5:09 PM, 51°F), things were pretty quiet. The lakeshore trail had been a relaxing way to end the day.

Lupe’s Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 179 wasn’t quite over yet, though. On the way back home, while still in the Bear Lodge Mountains, Lupe made two more quick stops. First, Lupe and SPHP took a short stroll from USFS Road No. 838 to a high point NW of Warren Peaks. SPHP wanted to find out if Lupe could see Devil’s Tower and Warren Peaks from here.

She could! The sun was low in the sky, and the light was weak, but there they were! What’s more, Lupe could also see the outline of the Bighorn Mountains far to the W!

From a high point NW of Warren Peaks, not far from USFS Road No. 838, Lupe could see the Missouri Buttes and Devils Tower in the fading light. Photo looks NW.

Lupe could also see the faint outline of the Bighorn Mountains on the far W horizon.

Lupe’s final stop was back up on Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.). The sun had either just set, or was hidden by clouds near the horizon. Lupe went over to the highest rocks on the mountain a few feet W of the fire lookout tower.

And so, Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 179 ended with Lupe standing atop the highest point in the Bear Lodge Mountains for the second time today, admiring the colorful sunset and distant outline of the lofty peaks of the glorious Bighorn Mountains.

Lupe at the highest point on Warren Peaks at sunset, her 2nd time here during Expedition No. 179. Photo looks WSW.

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