Wyoming – Page 18 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Deep Lake to the Summit (7-19-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-19-20, 8:52 AM – Lupe and SPHP had both sleep hard. Feeling better, and no heavy pack today! The Carolina Dog stood poised atop the flat rock outcropping 15 feet E of her tiny house. 2.5 miles to the SE, the sharp prow of East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) and its catastrophic cliffs soared into the cloudless blue above and beyond Clear Lake and the massive shadowed stone wall of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.).

2,600 feet of elevation gain to go.

C’mon, Looper, we’re late! Let’s hit it! Puppy, ho!

**East Temple Peak** (Center), **Haystack Mountain** (L), and **Clear Lake** (foreground). Photo looks SE.

Angling ESE down a forested slope, Lupe soon picked up Little Sandy trail No. 98. The trail went through a meadow before entering another stretch of forest still shadowed by Haystack Mountain. Loop caught only tree-broken glimpses of the E end of Clear Lake as the trail swung S and began to climb.

The American Dingo hadn’t gotten too far S of Clear Lake, when she came to an interesting and beautiful region. A crystal clear stream swept over large areas of exposed bedrock, and sometimes ran in secret courses beneath huge slabs of granite. A series of small waterfalls poured into rippling pools where every rock on the bottom stood out, magnified in watery relief.

*Wow! Doesn’t this look spiffy!* Photo looks S.

**Bunion Mountain (11,905 ft.)** (L), **War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.)** (Center), and **Haystack Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW back toward **Clear Lake**.

The amazing region went on and on! No sign of any official trail here, but so what? That didn’t matter in the least. Traveling S up the bedrock, sometimes on this side of the splendid stream, and sometimes on the other, was fun and incredibly scenic. Wherever enough soil existed to support them, Looper did have to manuever around or through clumps of bushes and stands of trees, but these obstacles only slowed progress temporarily.

Following the stream higher. **Haystack Mountain** (L). Photo looks SE.

The summit of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) appeared ahead. 15 minutes later, Lupe was thrilled when she looked back and saw the familiar enormous stretched-gumdrop cone of iconic Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.), and jagged knife-edge ridge of Wolf’s Head (12,160 ft.), both part of the Wind River range’s famous Cirque of the Towers.

*That’s the top of **Temple Peak (12,972 ft.)** (Center) up ahead!* Photo looks S.

And there’s **Pingora Peak** (Center) way over by the **Cirque of the Towers**! Photo looks NW.

**War Bonnet Peak** ( far L), **Wolf’s Head** (L), **Bollinger Peak** (L of Center) and **Pingora Peak** (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

More and more of both East Temple Peak and Temple Peak kept coming into view. Eventually Loopster was high enough to see Peak 11390, a sort of Mini-Pingora Peak which appeared sandwiched between them. In reality, Mini-Pingora was actually a high point along a ridge of solid rock extending NNW from East Temple Peak.

One waterfall after another plunged into sparkling pools. The stream flowed over such huge areas of worn bedrock that it spread out until it wasn’t even 0.50 inch deep. Lupe finally came to a spot where a ledge of rock 6 to 8 foot high sat above a 100 foot wide stream less than 0.25 inch deep.

**East Temple Peak** (L) and **Temple Peak** (Center) with **Mini-Pingora** between them. Photo looks S.

The stream spreads out. **Temple Peak** (Center). Photo looks S.

Wildflowers growing in a spot with some soil.

*Easiest 100 foot wide stream ford ever!*

After finding a way up the ledge, Lupe didn’t have much further to go to get to Deep Lake. Clear Lake had certainly been beautiful, but Deep Lake made a much deeper impression.

On the far shore, flanked by East Temple’s smooth towering cliff wall on the L, and Temple Peak’s jagged precipices on the R, Mini-Pingora ruled over Deep Lake like an enthroned mountain God. Below Mini-P’s granite stare, the sacred waters of Deep Lake filled the closely guarded valley to the point where the outlet stream overflowed a plain of bedrock strewn with large boulders at the N end, where the American Dingo now stood.

Shangri-la, SPHP!

Holy moley, Looper! The old boy was right yesterday! I should have drug everything up here last night, exhausted or not. Huge mistake! We could have been here all this time.

Why haven’t we ever come here before?

I had no idea. Never heard anyone talk about this secret spot.

**Deep Lake**. **Mini-P** (Center), **East Temple Peak** (L), **Temple Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

**East Temple Peak** (Center) from **Deep Lake**. **Mini-P** (R) and **Steeple Peak (12,040 ft.)** (L). Photo looks SE.

Nearly 11:00 AM. Sadly, with so much farther to go, Lupe couldn’t linger long at Deep Lake. A short stay enjoying the magnificent scene from the area near the outlet stream, and she was on her way again. Exploring SW beyond the exposed bedrock, the Carolina Dog rediscovered the trail, which headed S traversing the bush-covered slope W of the lake. Profusions of wildflowers filled openings among the bushes.

W of **Deep Lake**. The trail eventually curves R of **Mini-Pingora** (Center) toward **Temple Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Among the Indian paintbrush near **Deep Lake**. **Steeple Peak** (L), **East Temple Peak** (Center) and **Mini-Pingora** (R). Photo looks SE.

Approaching the S end of Deep Lake, the trail began to climb, eventually turning SW as it went over a broad minor pass. This pass was a region of open ground and boulders with scattered clumps of stunted conifers and bushes. Temple Lake soon came into view, its S end nestled at the base of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.).

On the SW side of the pass, Loop came to a trail junction. Two different branches of Little Sandy trail No. 98 converged here. SE of Temple Lake, and 900 feet higher, Lupe could now see the major pass she needed to get to along the ridge connecting East Temple and Temple Peaks. The combined trail turned toward it.

Crossing the minor pass. **Temple Peak** (L). Photo looks S.

**Temple Lake** comes into view. The pass between **East Temple Peak** (L, not shown) and **Temple Peak** (Center) is on the L. Photo looks S.

As the American Dingo journeyed SSE toward the major pass, SPHP kept expecting the trail to go down to the E shore of Temple Lake, but it didn’t. Instead, the path went on and on staying well above the lake.

This valley was another spectacular region. Temple Lake was long, with N and S halves connected by a narrow channel. The entire W shoreline hugged an enormous rocky ridge leading to Temple Peak. Temple Peak itself was a formidable mountain.

As Loop got closer to the S end of Temple Lake, a trail could be seen on the steep slope going up to the major pass. Expecting the trail Lupe was on to connect to it, SPHP was perplexed when the path suddenly turned clearly and very steeply up the slope to the L (E) instead. Could this be right? Didn’t seem like it, but maybe this was only a temporary blip higher?

Lupe started to climb. Already fabulous views improved, but the trail did not level out. Instead, it continued higher and higher, finally fading completely away in very steep rocky terrain. Pausing to gasp for air, SPHP checked the maps. Sure enough, this was all wrong! Really not too surprising. Must have missed a turn. The trail should have gone down to Temple Lake.

Reluctant to lose hundreds of feet of hard won elevation, SPHP simply encouraged Loopster to keep going. Maybe she could still work her way over to the pass? If this slope got much steeper, though, retreating would soon be the only viable choice.

Approaching **Temple Peak** (Center) before the trail turned higher. Photo looks S.

**A Cheval Peak (11,763 ft.)** (L of Center). **Warrior Peaks (12,406 ft.)** and **War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.)** (both R) in the distance. Photo looks back to the NW.

**Temple Lake** again from a little higher up. Photo looks NW.

Heading for the pass didn’t work. Lupe never got there, but she didn’t stop climbing. Really steep for a long way. It kept looking like she would top out pretty soon, but she didn’t. A small half-frozen lake appeared in a cirque way above, and W of, the S end of Temple Lake.

**Loopster** (L) never quite made it to the **pass** (R). Photo looks S.

A **half-frozen lake** (Center) came into view N of Temple Peak. **S end of Temple Lake** (R). Photo looks WSW.

By the time the terrain leveled out somewhat, Lupe was already higher than the pass she had been heading for. She could now glimpse portions of a couple of the Frozen Lakes in a rocky plain beyond the pass. To the NE, a somewhat grassy slope led toward a talus-laden ridge way above the pass.

While this next slope was plenty steep, it wasn’t nearly as steep as what Loop had just come up. Getting to the ridgeline wouldn’t be the end of things, though. The topo map made it clear that what could be seen from here was only a false summit. Looper was still 0.67 mile from the top of East Temple Peak.

Gazing over the pass between East Temple Peak and Temple Peak. Parts of a couple of the **Frozen Lakes** (L) are in sight. Photo looks S.

The next slope along the broad ridge leading to the summit. Photo looks NE.

Up, up, and away! Wherever possible, Lupe followed lanes of vegetation higher, but she was often forced to scramble among the talus, too. Above the first rise was another one quite similar to it, except that the upper lip of this second long slope boasted several distinct rock formations.

Below rock formations at the top of the second rise. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP’s progress up these two slopes was almost as slow and exhausting as on the very steep slope coming up from Temple Lake. Loopster had plenty of time to sniff around while waiting for SPHP to catch up, but at last she scrambled up past one of the rock formations at the top of the second rise.

Ahead was a much flatter region with a fair amount of greenery dotted with many boulders. This area was quite broad, and rose more gently along the NW side. Toward the E was a long talus ridge which sloped up toward the apparent summit, a large mound of talus to the N.

In the flatter region above the second slope. Photo looks W.

The trek across the plain over to the base of the mound was easy. Lupe discovered a snow bank melting in the shade of a huge boulder. The talus the mound consisted of was very large, and exploring the resulting maze was slow and difficult. At one point, SPHP had to squeeze through a talus tunnel to get any farther. At another, Loop needed to be hoisted up an otherwise impossible leap.

Despite the progress the Carolina Dog was making, SPHP’s belief that she was nearing the top was repeatedly disappointed. One after another, false summits appeared, always another 40 or 50 feet higher.

On the snowbank at the base of the talus mound.

Looper finally got high enough to see that she wasn’t actually close to the true summit yet at all. Rocky, but flatter and easier terrain led over to a second talus hill farther N along the narrowing top of East Temple Peak. By now it was clear that Lupe could have saved a lot of time and effort. If she had only stayed farther W, she would have completely avoided the huge talus mound she’d just climbed.

The **true summit** appears ahead. Photo looks N.

Before heading for the true summit, Loop wandered over toward the NW edge. Not too close, due to the sheer cliffs, but close enough to see Big Sandy Lake which she’d been to yesterday, and Clear Lake where she’d started out from this morning. She also had a tremendous view of a sea of jagged peaks extending as far as she could see along the length of the Wind River range. Only a few looked any higher than where Lupe was right now.

**Lake 10821** (far L), **Big Sandy Lake** (L) and **Clear Lake** (Center). Photo looks NW.

The mound of talus leading to the true summit wasn’t nearly as large as the first mound Lupe had climbed, so it didn’t take too long to get to the top. At the high point, two large light-colored boulders were just about equally high. Lupe leapt up onto the one closest to the E edge, the top of the other boulder being perhaps too small for comfort.

Heading for the true summit. Photo looks NE.

On the **true summit of East Temple Peak**. Photo looks E.

Another look. Lupe at the **true summit**. Photo looks NNW.

The views from East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) were awesome! Less than 1.5 miles due E was another, even higher peak Lupe had been to 3 years ago, titan of the SE Wind River Range, mighty Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.). Mount Nystrom (12,356 ft.) to the SSE was also impressive.

**Wind River Peak** (R), giant of the SE end of the Wind River Range. Photo looks E.

**Mount Nystrom** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

To the S were glimpses of Independent Mountain (11,653 ft.) beyond the Frozen Lakes, and Little Sandy Lake beyond Little Sandy Lake Buttress (11,427 ft.). Much of Temple Lake was in sight to the WNW, and beyond Schiestler Peak (11,624 ft.), the entire Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) ridge was on display. Bunion Mountain (11,905 ft.) stood out a little farther N.

**Little Sandy Lake** and **Little Sandy Lake Buttress** (far L). **Frozen Lakes** and **Independent Mountain** (R beyond the near ridge). Photo looks S.

**Temple Lake** (L), **Miller Lake** (R) and **Lake 10281** (far R). **Laturio Mountain** (R) beyond **Schiestler Peak**. **Bunion Mountain** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

And, of course, only a mile to the SW was a grand view of the fearsome cliffs of Temple Peak (11,972 ft.).

**Temple Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

The true summit was a small, bouldery area. Not difficult to get to, but rather cramped. Lupe didn’t remained perched on the highest rock for long. Another high point only modestly lower could be seen off to the N, closer to the most amazing views of all from East Temple Peak, which were of all the many rugged peaks stretching away to the NW along the spine of the Wind River range.

Heading over to this next high point, Lupe found a metal tube hidden among small rocks beneath an overhanging boulder. The outside of the tube was stamped “Chicago Mountaineering Club 25th Anniversary 1940 – 1965”. SPHP managed to open the tube, but sadly all the papers inside were soaking wet. Nothing but garbage at this point. Putting the cap back on, SPHP returned the tube to its lofty hiding place.

At the next high point N of the true summit. The metal tube was hidden among the small rocks to the R of Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Chicago Mountaineering Club 25th anniversary tube.

There was more! Beyond the metal tube high point, the narrow prow of East Temple Peak extended a little farther N. A big flat rock led to other rocks beyond it where a small cairn sat near the very end. The prow even went a bit farther than this, but big cracks among the rocks near calamitous cliffs meant the Carolina Dog was done. The little cairn was as far as she was going.

From here, the vertical E face of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) could be seen to the NNW, hundreds of feet lower, looking as though that half of the mountain had suffered a catastrophic collapse. Beyond Haystack, Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.), Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.), and Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) stretched away along a giant ridge. Lizard Head Peak (12,842 ft.) soared higher yet beyond Dog Tooth.

On the big flat rock leading to the prow of **East Temple Peak**. Photo looks N.

By the cairn nearly at the end of the prow, as far as Lupe was going. **E face of Haystack Mountain** (in shade R of Center). **Dog Tooth** and **Lizard Head** lined up beyond it. Dog Tooth flanked by **Mitchell Peak** (L) and **Big Sandy Mountain** (R) on same ridgeline. Photo looks NNW.

Focusing a little more toward the NW, the Cirque of the Towers was in view. Cylindrical Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) looked much lower. SPHP didn’t dare let Loopster get close enough to the edge to peer down on Mini-Pingora (11,390 ft.) and Deep Lake, but part of Big Sandy Lake was in sight.

**Lake 10281** (L) and **Big Sandy Lake** (Center). **Pingora Peak** (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks NW.

**War Bonnet Peak** (L), **Wolf’s Head** (in sunlight L of Center), **Bollinger Peak** (in shadow at Center), and **Pingora Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

East Temple Peak was an incredible vantage point! More than an hour went by, as SPHP surveyed the views and Lupe relaxed. The American Dingo devoured an entire can of Alpo. Finally, lengthening shadows could be ignored no longer. It was time.

Lupe returned to the N high point where the Chicago Mountaineering Club tube was hidden. Although she got close again, she never did go back to the true summit. Instead, Loop passed W of both it, and the huge mound of talus she had climbed on the way up, making much faster progress on easier terrain.

Starting back. Metal tube HP (L). **True summit** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the metal tube HP again. Photo looks NE.

Near the **true summit** (R) again. Photo looks S.

After crossing the relatively flat plain, Loop reached the edge of the huge slope leading down to the pass. Starting from rock formations along the W end, she worked her way lower, trying to avoid fields of talus as much as possible.

Nearing the end of the upper flat region. Loop started down near the L side of the rock formations ahead. **Temple Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Glancing back after starting down. Photo looks N.

By the time Lupe was approaching the pass, the sun was just about down. The pass was a jumble of rock. The Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way down to it until she was close to the N edge, ready to begin the next steep 900 foot descent down to Temple Lake.

Near the pass between Temple Peak (L) and East Temple Peak (R) (both unseen). **Temple Lake** (Center). Photo looks NW.

A stream trickled down from the pass. Lupe found the trail she had seen earlier in the day, and started N along it. Progress was fast at first, but slowed considerably as the trail steepened. Light was fading as Looper passed a long snowbank near the bottom of the slope. It was almost gone by the time she reached Temple Lake.

SPHP had assumed that by getting back to the trail and reaching Temple Lake before the night grew completely black, that Lupe would have an easy time the rest of the way back at least as far as Deep Lake. Nothing more than sticking with the trail would be involved. Wrong! Down by the lake, the trail soon vanished, and could not be found again even with the help of SPHP’s small flashlight.

Heading N over a stony region so close to the E shore of Temple Lake that standing water was often seen between the rocks, Lupe sniffed in vain. No trail! Before long, it became apparent that the Carolina Dog was approaching a boulder field beyond which a dark ridge extended W far enough to create a choke point along the shoreline. To get past this ridge, Loopster would either have to wade through the lake, or find a way over the ridge.

Overhead, stars were now brilliant in the night sky, but the valley was pitch black. Wading into the obsidian depths of Temple Lake was not an option. Way too scary! Forced to climb a steep slope, Lupe managed to get beyond the ridge, but found no trail continuing N up here. Instead, Loopster reached a point where she couldn’t climb any higher. After crossing a marsh, the terrain forced her all the way back down to the shoreline again.

In the dark, confusion reigned. Where was the trail? Why was this so blankety-blank difficult? Consulting the map provided no clues. Looked perfectly simple! Follow the non-existent trail, which couldn’t be too far from the lake, and no more than 100 feet above it.

Continuing N next to the lake, the whole scenario repeated itself. Once again, the American Dingo was forced to climb a steep slope, found no trail, and made it past another ridge. Once again, the terrain returned her to the shoreline, but this time the ground was firmer and drier. It began to slope gently up toward the NE, the direction where the minor pass to Deep Lake had to be.

Late. Weariness setting in. The slope was easy, but SPHP was now just dragging. Often glancing up at SPHP, as if uncertain what this was all leading to, Lupe looked worried. Some indeterminable distance ahead, slightly off to the R, a strange phenomena appeared. A glow! Faint, ever so faint. A lone firefly? Didn’t make any sense. No fireflies in Wyoming, are there? Maybe it was something bigger, but much farther away than it looked?

As Lupe headed toward the tiny beacon, it soon became increasingly clear that whatever it was was close. Reaching the source, SPHP picked up a tiny glowing plastic candle flame mounted on a round white base. A little black switch on the bottom turned it on or off.

SPHP slumped to the ground.

Let’s rest here for a bit, Loopster. I’m about out of gas, and my paws are getting awfully sore. These new boots are doing a number on them. No rush now that the light’s gone, anyway. What do you make of this little flame?

Probably dropped by one of Mini-P’s acolytes during some dark mountain ceremony! This whole region is a sacred temple, isn’t it?

It is! Seems a little strange that Mini-P’s acolytes use battery-operated flames, though. And even stranger yet that we’ve happened upon it while the battery still has some juice. Think I’ll keep it, just as a souvenir of our journey to East Temple Peak.

I don’t know, SPHP! Maybe you should leave it alone? Why risk the wrath of Mini-P? Stealing it might bring a curse upon us!

Turning the tiny candle flame off, SPHP tossed it in the pack.

Curse, schmurse! I’m not afraid of any dark mountain curse, not when I’ve got an American Dingo on my side!

Go ahead and tempt fate! You’ll see, SPHP!

The return soon continued. Only 100 feet from where the tiny flame was found, Lupe came across the trail.

Hah! Some curse! We are in possession of Mini-P’s good luck charm, Looper! Smooth sailing from here on.

The Carolina Dog made no reply. Sniffing on into the night, she quickly came to the intersection where Little Sandy trail No. 98 divided. Staying toward the R (NE), Lupe and SPHP headed over the gentle pass leading to Deep Lake.

The descent to Deep Lake was surprisingly longer, steeper, and rockier than SPHP remembered, but the trail was easy to follow even in the dark. Loop eventually reached the boulder-strewn bedrock plain where the outlet stream exited the N end of Deep Lake.

On the way down to Clear Lake, the exposed bedrock was much harder to follow than expected. Somehow, SPHP kept winding up thrashing around in bushes and bogs, usually E of where the stream turned out to be. Lupe kept coming across trails, though, and repeatedly ran across the bedrock again. Still, it had already been dark for hours by the time she reached the N side of Clear Lake.

After getting past the clearing Loopster had gone through shortly after reaching the trail as she set out this morning, SPHP led the Carolina Dog up the slope to the N toward the hidden location of her tiny house.

Oh, joy! The tiny house was so well hidden, SPHP couldn’t find it! Multiple forays up the slope followed by retreats clear down to the trail, and back and forth as far as the W end of Clear Lake, before returning E revealed nothing. Again and again, SPHP searched the slope for stands of dead trees and rock outcroppings, both known to be present near the tiny house, but never came across the right ones.

Come on, Loop! Help me! Where is it? Find the tiny house!

I can’t, SPHP! It’s the curse of Mini-P!

Maybe it was. Finding the tiny house had never been an issue before. Leading Lupe over to a meadow on the S side of the trail, SPHP laid down, pulling the Dingo close. Miss Hot Paws was like an oven, but a small one.

Stars glittered overhead. All else was infinite blackness. Using the pack as a pillow, SPHP tried to sleep. Inside the boots purchased for this Dingo Vacation, SPHP’s swollen paws throbbed, painfully constricted. Unable to shift much lest the Carolina Dog feel disturbed and insist upon wandering off, SPHP could feel the curse of Mini-P taking over.

Connected to the subterranean power of Mini-P’s anger, the cold earth became a basilisk. No staring into its eyes, but its mere touch sent icy fingers creeping inwards. Racing blood turned to sludge. Joints stiffened and ached. SPHP needed to move, but couldn’t. Teeth chattered.

Oh, Loopster! Too bad you aren’t inflatable! You need to be bigger, like 5 times as big, so I can suck more heat out of you. How do you stay so warm?

Well, I’m not inflatable. Guess you’ll just have to use your precious stolen sacred candle flame, SPHP!

Sleep was impossible. In the solidifying grasp of Mini-P, SPHP watched the movement of stars. Or were they myriad tiny candle flames held forth by a timeless procession of dark acolytes?

How long this went on was hard to say. Eyes glazed. SPHP’s shuddering finally induced Lupe to leave. The cold hard ground was intolerable without her. SPHP staggered up. Hobbling across the trail over to the N slope, the search for the tiny house resumed.

Same thing. Nada.

The candle stars were dying. One by one they faded away, then began to die en masse. The dim outlines of Haystack Mountain and East Temple Peak were now discernable. An idea! Getting the camera out, SPHP compared the mountain outlines now visible with the first photo of the day, the one facing the same way where Lupe had been standing on the rock outcropping near the tiny house.

Nearly identical! Maybe a bit more to the W? Swinging the flashlight beam 30 feet over that way, there stood Lupe, the rock outcropping and faintly reflective fabric of the tiny house beyond her. The curse of Mini-P was broken! Dawn came on as Lupe and SPHP crawled into the tiny house and cozy warmth of the sleeping bags.

7-20-20, late morning N of Clear Lake – Hot! Not a cloud in the sky. Lupe still snoozed while bleary-eyed SPHP took off socks to examine painful paws. Good! Not as bad as they felt. The R one was worst. A generous application of anti-bacterial cream on the sore spots, and SPHP let them rest in the open air.

The plan had been for Lupe to climb another couple of peaks today. Too funny! Not going anywhere, except back to the Big Sandy trailhead, and even that not until later. Simply not enough food along to spend a whole day resting, and still climb those peaks tomorrow.

A little after mid-afternoon, the paws were feeling good enough to give it a go. SPHP slowly packed up the tiny house, Loopster lingering inside as long as possible before being evicted. The heavy backpack didn’t feel good, but wasn’t as heavy as it had been on the way in. Lupe and SPHP returned to the trail, starting the long journey back.

Uneventful. Lupe didn’t take the side route to Diamond and V Lakes this time, although maybe she should have. After reaching Big Sandy Lake, SPHP simply kept plodding steadily SW along Big Sandy trail No. 99, more interested in how far it was to the trailhead than the scenery.

The sun had just set when the American Dingo reached the trailhead at the Big Sandy Opening. Too late to go anywhere else. Tonight, after a good meal, Lupe would bask in the soft comfort of the G6.

And twitching paws would reveal the moment when the Carolina Dog set off again, wandering among waterfalls and glistening pools, past a deep lake overflowing with sacred waters where flowers bloomed and a mountain god reigned, on up steep talus-covered slopes, to the prow of a mighty mountain sailing an ocean of jagged peaks, while tiny candle flames began glowing and reeling in the black sky above.

**East Temple Peak**, Wind River Range, Wyoming 7-19-20

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming (7-18-20) – Part 1: Big Sandy Opening to Clear Lake

Big Sandy to Jackass Pass & Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range, WY (9-1-15)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 257 – Inyan Kara (11-7-20)

8:57 AM, 61ºF, Hunter Ranch at the end of Crook County Road No. 198 –

Wish you hadn’t brought the dog!

Doug Hunter, owner of the ranch that Lupe needed permission to cross to get to Inyan Kara Mountain (6,360 ft.), was soft-spoken. A tall, older man, he didn’t look entirely well. His face had a reddish-purple cast to it. SPHP felt a little bad about showing up unannounced to ask this favor of him. The softly smiling reply was a bit sheepish.

Well, I did.

Doug sighed.

I’ll tie up my dog then. If I don’t, he’ll follow you.

Thank you, so much! By the way, we brought you a present.

You didn’t have to do that.

It is your land. Realize that we’re asking you a favor, so thought we better come prepared to do a little something for you, too. It’s nothing much. Hang on a moment.

Opening the trunk of the G6, SPHP produced a 6 pack carton of Corona Extra. Doug seemed surprised, maybe even faintly pleased, but said nothing. He didn’t turn it down, though, when SPHP handed it to him. A truck pulled up, as Doug accepted the gift.

They’re here for Inyan Kara, too.

Hunters?

No, hikers like you.

Doug went to tie up his black and white salt and pepper-coated dog, which was about the same size as Lupe and showing a lot of interest in her. SPHP parked the G6 near the fence close to the house, let Lupe out, and grabbed the backpack. As the Carolina Dog passed by, Mr. Hunter was chatting with the new arrivals.

We’ve established a no pet policy. One dog got bit by a rattler, and another was attacked by a badger. The owners wanted to blame us.

Yikes! Awkward! Maybe that young couple had a dog, too, had called ahead, and been told not to bring it? Clearly, Doug had been expecting them. Waving cheerily, but briefly, SPHP stepped up the pace.

Thanks again! We’ll be out of your hair in just a few minutes.

Making it to the end of the fence around the ranch house yard, Lupe turned W following a dirt road down into a little dry creek bottom, then up the other side. In bright sunshine, Inyan Kara loomed ahead. Not all that far to the fence line marking the boundary of the Hunter ranch, and start of the isolated 2 square miles of Black Hills National Forest on which the mountain sat.

Even after ducking under the fence, Lupe and SPHP hurried on, angling NW now toward the trees. Out of sight, out of mind!

**Inyan Kara** on the way to the Hunter ranch. Photo looks WNW.

Glancing back at the Hunter Ranch headquarters after ducking under the fence onto Black Hills National Forest land. Photo looks E.

On the lower E slope heading for the trees. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the forest, Lupe continued NW for a little way, still climbing gradually. When SPHP figured she’d gone far enough, it was time to turn W straight up the steep slope leading to the top of the E ridge. Loop was soon there, popping up onto the ridgeline near a minor rock formation. Inyan Kara’s summit was already in sight only 0.5 mile away.

Getting close to the top of the E ridge. Photo looks WSW.

**Inyan Kara summit** (Center) from the E ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Looper was going to have to go a lot farther than 0.5 mile, though, to get to the top of Inyan Kara. The igneous mountain, an ancient wanna-be volcano that never erupted, is shaped like an elongated horseshoe, or an enormous, partially coiled serpent. A V-shaped valley hundreds of feet deep was between the American Dingo and the summit.

This E ridge was part of the serpent’s tail. Loop would have to travel the length of the serpent’s coiled spine clear around to the S and SW before heading NE to the summit. Before doing all that, Lupe wandered a little farther N to where the serpent’s tail began to drop more steeply. Her clockwise journey around to the summit would start from here.

Lupe as far N along the E ridge as she went. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe started the journey S, the forested ridge was narrow, but nicely rounded. Minor rock outcroppings protruded at various points like petrified serpent vertebrae. Slowly, but steadily, Loop gained elevation as she went, occasionally coming to minor dips and high points along the way. An even higher spot was always reached a little farther on.

Tree effectively blocked the views, but every now and then, Loop came to small openings where she could see off into the distance. At first, all of these openings looked E or SE out over the plains surrounding Inyan Kara. From the first of these openings, the main body of the Black Hills looked like little more than a long blue ridge. Farther on, the piney tablelands of the Sweetwater Mountains High Point (6,440 ft.) were discernable on the SE horizon.

Starting the clockwise journey around the long outer ridge. Photo looks S.

The **Black Hills of South Dakota** from Inyan Kara. Photo looks E.

**Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (Center – the most distant ridge). Photo looks SE.

Another look at the **Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (Center – most distant ridge). Photo looks SE.

Lupe was SE of the summit by the time she got her next look at it. From this angle she had the best view of the columnar jointing on the S face of the summit region she would have all day. Although not as spectacular, Inyan Kara bore a certain resemblance to Devils Tower (5,112 ft.), NE Wyoming’s most famous and dramatic mountain.

S face of the summit region. Photo looks NW.

Columnar jointing is a relatively rare geologic feature. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Inyan Kara had not escaped a pine beetle infestation that hit the Black Hills region more than 10 years ago. Considerable quantities of deadfall timber were strewn along the ridge. As Lupe turned W along the S part of the ridgeline, she had to dodge more and more deadfall. Many broken tree trunks amidst this shattered mess were laying perpendicular to her direction of travel, greatly slowing SPHP’s progress.

The weather was deteriorating, too. What had started out as a sunny morning had clouded over to a considerable degree, especially toward the S. An early gentle breeze was now a 15 to 20 mph wind sweeping in out of the SW. SPHP kept an eye on some of the more threatening trees still standing in the swaying, creaking forest.

At the S end, Lupe came to broader grassy region. For the first time, she could now see the plains SW of Inyan Kara. Turning NW to explore the SW part of the ridge, the deadfall was really icky, and the Carolina Dog had to put up with the full force of the SW breeze roaring up the slope.

The wide grassy region at the S end of the ridgeline. Photo looks SW.

Traveling the SW ridge. What a mess! Photo looks WNW.

**Summit** (L) view from the SW part of the ridge. Photo looks NE.

View to the SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Beyond the worst of the deadfall, Lupe came to a dip in the ridgeline and another, smaller grassy spot. This led to a short climb, culminating at forested HP6262, the highest point along the Inyan Kara serpent’s body.

In the second grassy region, on the way to **HP6262**. Photo looks NW.

At **HP6262**. **Summit** (Center) in the background. Photo looks NE.

The serpent’s neck had been crushed. To get to the head (summit!), which was now off to the NE, but not easily seen due to all the trees, Lupe had to descend 130 feet into a wide saddle leading to Inyan Kara’s N ridge. She was happy to do so. This descent immediately got her into the leeward protection of the ridge and out of the wind.

The downslope was full of deadfall, slowing progress again, but even so, Lupe was soon approaching the bottom. The highest part of the saddle was also littered with deadfall. However, by staying toward the SE, Loop was able to cross the saddle in nearly obstacle-free open forest. A few minute’s tramp, and the American Dingo stood confronted by the first rock formations of the N ridge.

Near the highest part of the saddle leading to the N ridge. Photo looks N.

A bit farther SE in an almost deadfall-free zone. Photo looks E.

Approaching the **SW end of the N ridge**. Photo looks E.

Inyan Kara’s N ridge was much rockier than the long outer spine of the serpent Lupe had just come from. Exactly where to start up wasn’t clear, and maybe didn’t make much difference, although it seemed to SPHP it might be best not to start too close to the S end. Picking a spot just N of some thin-layered rock formations, Lupe began her ascent.

Open lanes strewn with pine needles existed among the rocks, making for a fairly easy, though somewhat steep, trek higher. Upon regaining the elevation she’d lost on the way down to the saddle from HP6262, Looper reached an initial top at HP6285. To the S, she already had a good view of the ridge she’d traveled to get here. Off to the NNE, she could once again see Inyan Kara’s summit.

Among the first rock formations encountered along the N ridge. Photo looks NNE.

At **HP6285**. The long ridge Loop had traveled to get here (from L all the way to the R), is the closest one beyond her. **Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (R of Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks SE.

**Summit** (L) from **HP6285**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe and SPHP were taking a look around from HP6285, the young couple that had arrived shortly before Loop left the Hunter ranch caught up. A quick exchange of greetings, and they pressed on ahead.

Lupe was soon hot on their trail. The summit was only 0.25 mile away now, and not even 100 feet higher. However, the route N following breaks among knobby rock formations was up and down with several steep or narrow spots along the way. The top of the ridge was rough enough so it was often best to stay somewhat below it, usually toward the E overlooking the deep central valley.

Among the rock formations. Photo looks N.

Making progress. Up on top of the ridge at the moment. Photo looks NNE.

*Getting there!* **Summit** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

At one point, a large rock formation provided a break in the trees. Both Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.) were faintly visible on the far NW horizon.

**Missouri Buttes** and **Devils Tower** (visible if expanded) both L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Just before the final rocky spurt to the summit, Lupe came to a big dip requiring a bit of a down climb. The young couple were already beyond the dip, paused not far below the top, as Loopster approached.

Closing in on the summit. Photo looks NE.

In a rocky gully just shy of the top. Photo looks NNE.

The young man pushed on as Lupe passed the woman, who remained where she was. Up a little rocky ramp, and the Carolina Dog was there! On top of Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.), Lupe and SPHP met Marcus Neiman. He’d already removed the rocks of a cairn located a little W of the true summit.

Roughly carved into the bedrock where the cairn had been was an item of historical significance. “74 Custer”. The inscription had been here for more than 146 years, since July 23, 1874, when an expedition led by Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer had been in the Black Hills searching for gold.

Looper by the **“74 Custer”** inscription. Photo looks NW.

SPHP asked Marcus about the young woman with him.

She’s just nervous about this last part? She’s practically here already! A shame to come so far, get so close, and not make it to the summit. Really nothing to it now. Mind if Lupe and I talk to her? We’d just like to give her a little encouragement. No question she can do this!

Marcus had no objection.

What’s her name?

Martina.

Lupe and SPHP returned to where Martina sat in a partially sheltered spot below a juniper bush. She couldn’t have been any more than 15 or 20 feet lower than the true summit, or 100 feet from it, but the top wasn’t visible from where she waited.

What could be seen of the rocky ramp higher might seem a bit exposed to someone not used to the mountains. In fairness, Inyan Kara’s N ridge, which Martina had already come across, was more intimidating than the vast majority of mostly gentle peaks in the Black Hills region. The gusty SW wind was blowing up here, too, which couldn’t have been helping matters.

Despite Lupe’s calming presence, and SPHP’s attempts to reassure her, Martina repeatedly said she was fine with staying right where she was. Her choice, of course. SPHP was about to give up when an idea struck. The problem was that short, but psychologically intimidating, rocky ramp higher into the wind and the unknown. Was there another route?

Climbing only a few steps N past the juniper bush, there was! Piece of cake! Martina could even see the critical part from right where she was. Not expecting any miracles, SPHP pointed out that, if she could get to where SPHP stood only a dozen feet from her, Martina had Inyan Kara made. The rest was even easier.

A moment’s hesitation, then without saying a word, Martina stood up. Something inside had clicked! Literally 2 minutes later, though perhaps still a bit nervous, Martina was standing, smiling and hugging with her husband, at the true summit of Inyan Kara.

Congratulations, were in order, of course! Then a few photos. SPHP had the temerity to ask Martina if she liked coconut?

Yes …

How about chocolate?

Martina shot SPHP an incredulous look.

Yeeessss …

3 small chocolate coconut bars were in the backpack. SPHP offered one each to Martina and Marcus, then split the remaining one with an eager Dingo.

At the true summit with **Martina** and **Marcus**. Photo looks ESE.

A registry was in a round plastic bin tucked under a juniper bush along the N edge 10 feet from the true summit. Somehow, the upper edge of the registry notebook had been gnawed away. Marcus and SPHP both created new entries.

A couple of survey markers were up here, too. One was 10 feet W of the true summit. The other, stamped with an arrow, was 15 feet NE.

Half a dozen miles W of the main body of the Black Hills, Inyan Kara stood in grand isolation out in the high prairies of E Wyoming, part of a line of mostly smaller hills. Sweeping views in all directions, although a bit murky on this unsettled day.

Marcus said he had climbed Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.). Surprising! The buttes were on private property, so SPHP was under the impression that only a limited number of people had ever been there.

Zoomed in on **Missouri Buttes** (L) and **Devils Tower** (R). Photo looks NW.

Marcus and Martina were soon ready to go. After Marcus rebuilt the cairn over “74 Custer”, they bid Lupe farewell and were on their way.

The rebuilt cairn hiding **“74 Custer”** is in front of Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Alone again. Lupe had been here once before on a November day, nearly 6 years ago. SPHP had seen her old entry in the registry, still there and legible on a page now smudged and dirty. That had also been a gray, windy day, but colder, darker, and even windier than this one. SPHP encouraged Looper to pose as she had stood back then, buffeted by the breeze with clouds approaching out of the SW.

In the November breeze again on **Inyan Kara**. Photo looks SW.

6 years gone, a sobering thought. Who knew if the Carolina Dog would ever return to Inyan Kara again? What once was, is no more.

146 years ago when someone inscribed “74 Custer” up here, this had still been Sioux territory. Lupe might have seen bison on the prairies below. Despite the coming huge Native American victory at Little Bighorn in June, 1876, that had all been about to change forever. By the end of 1877, with the surrender of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, no numerous native tribe still roamed freely in the United States.

As the afternoon wore on, the winds died down. Clouds sailed away. The day became sunnier and warmer. On a remote sacred mountain, Lupe lingered.

Upper NE end of the summit region. **Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.)** (L). Photo looks NE.

On a clear day, it might be possible to see the Bighorn Mountains far to the W, but Loop saw no sign of them today. A second somewhat lower region of the summit area was hidden in forest off to the E. Together, Lupe and SPHP went over to explore it. Cactus! Had seen only a little of it back near the true summit, and none on the way up, but there was a fair amount of it way out at the E end.

Loopster got a couple of small, but painful cactus spines in one of her paws. SPHP pulled them out, but she had had it! The American Dingo demanded SCOP (Standard Cactus Operating Procedure) from then on as long as she was in this region. She wouldn’t budge unless SPHP either carried her, or explored ahead before giving her the signal indicating that the route was cacti-free!

Lower E end of the Inyan Kara summit region. **Hooker Peak** (far L). Photo looks NE.

*Let’s head back to the true summit. Less painful up there!* Photo looks NW.

1.5 hours after arriving, and, well, you know the drill. A final look around, and Lupe stood perched in a light breeze at the true summit of Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) for the last time. Solitude, beauty, isolation, joy!

Back near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Last look NNW. **Missouri Buttes** (L) and **Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.)** (R) on the horizon.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Actually, SPHP led the way for the first little bit. Lupe hung out up on Inyan Kara’s summit, waiting until SPHP had already gotten a good start. She then came bounding along the rocks, catching up in a jiffy.

*Go on ahead, SPHP! I’ll be with you shortly.* **HP6262** (R). Photo looks SW.

At the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks SSW.

About to begin the descent. Photo looks NE.

The first part of the return was a retracement of the same route Looper had taken up Inyan Kara’s N ridge.

On the way down. **HP6262** (Center) on the far ridge. Photo looks SW.

Still time! Looper’s explorations of Inyan Kara weren’t over. Once the American Dingo made her way back to the saddle leading to HP6262, Lupe instead turned N, venturing into a valley she’d never seen before.

Usual sort of thing. The remote valley steepened, becoming V-shaped with plenty of deadfall to contend with. 0.75 mile later and 850 feet lower, Loop emerged from the pines as the valley widened and flattened out. She was way over on the NW side of the mountain now.

Traveling a grassy road that soon turned to dirt, the Carolina Dog circled the base of Inyan Kara clockwise, usually out on open prairie, but at times in darkening forest. Not all that late, but evening comes stealing out of the E early while stalking the weary November sun.

To the N, Peak 5475 and O’Haver Peak (5,530 ft.) across the rumpled prairie, both looking much more significant now than they had from above. To the NE, Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.), Iron Mountain (5,887 ft.) and Duling Hill (6,005 ft.), old friends Lupe had once visited before.

**Peak 5475** (L) and **O’Haver Peak** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Hooker Peak** (L), **Iron Mountain** (L of Center), and **Duling Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

Near the end, shortly before the dying day passed away, the sun cast a brief gleaming glance back as it fled into the W. The American Dingo paused. A moment of tranquil beauty.