7:48 AM, 31ºF, intersection of Dewey Road (Custer Co. No. 769) and Elk Mountain Road – What a gorgeous day! A few little clouds in a brilliant blue sky. Supposed to warm up a bunch today, too, after what had been a bitter cold couple of weeks in the first part of February. Highs in the upper 50’s ºF in the forecast back home!
Yeah, so much for that around here. Not even up to freezing yet. Lupe set out for gleaming white Elk Benchmark(5,669 ft.) heading into the teeth of a frigid NW wind. Looked like, felt like, winter!
Elk Benchmark from Elk Mountain Road. Photo looks NW.
I thought you said it was going to be nice out, SPHP! Just sort of windy.
Hah! Yeah, silly me! Actually supposed to get windier, too. 40 mph gusts! How are you faring, Looper? Are you freezing? Want to turn back?
I’m OK so far, but windier won’t be good. Are you sure you’re up to this?
Not entirely, Loop. A lot colder and snowier than I was expecting, but the mountains ought to provide us some shelter once we get closer.
Let’s keep going then, SPHP. If we can get out of the wind, that will help a bunch. Hopefully, it will warm up some, too.
A cold, cold trek for nearly 1.5 miles, but conditions improved after that. At 2.5 miles long and more than 500 feet high, Elk Benchmark made an excellent windbreak. Might have warmed up a bit by the time Lupe got close to it, too. Elk Mountain Road turned SW into a sheltered valley. Suddenly the winter display was simply beautiful, instead of an ordeal.
Peak5500 and Wildcat Peak(5,500 ft.) were already in sight. Going to be a fun day, if it didn’t get too windy up on top!
Still out in the cold wind. Peak 5500 (L) and Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks W.Beautiful here! Not as windy. Wildcat Peak (L) and Peak 5500 (R). Photo looks S.
At the W end of the protected valley, Elk Mountain Road wound 300 feet up to a pass separating Elk Benchmark and Peak 5500. SPHP paused to read a sign about Bighorn sheep. As soon as SPHP finished, Lupe left the road and began climbing SE into the snowy forest.
Peak 5500 (L). The road curves R up to a pass. Photo looks SW.Bighorn sheep sign at the pass.About to head into the forest. Photo looks SE.
The snow was a foot deep most places, enough to make Lupe work. Once she got into the forest a little way, she turned E until she reached the edge of the ridge she was going to follow up Peak 5500. From here she had a great view of the secluded valley she’d come through on Elk Mountain Road, and much of the ridgeline leading to the summit.
Lupe came through the valley seen on the R. Elk Benchmark (L). Photo looks NE.At the E edge of the ridge. Peak 5500 (L of Center). Photo looks SE.
The American Dingo kept going, climbing SE along the ridgeline. Every so often, she stopped to enjoy the unobstructed views to the E from big rocks perched along the edge.
S end of Elk Benchmark (L). Photo looks NE.On the same boulder, but now looking SE toward Peak 5500’s summit (R).
The edge of the ridge was wide open. Breezy up here, but nothing like it had been down on the prairie. The forest just W of the ridgeline helped a lot to minimize it’s effect, but Lupe could still hear the wind roaring among the swaying pines.
Partway up, Lupe came to a flat bouldery area where there was a break in the forest. She could see a long way W into Wyoming from here, but was again exposed to the wind’s full force. Annoying, but since it wasn’t quite as cold out now, the gale wasn’t as frigid as it had been earlier.
On the wind-swept boulders. Photo looks SE.A big view into Wyoming through a gap in the forest. Photo looks W.
The climb continued. Really wasn’t all that steep most of the time. Lupe explored boulders and rock outcroppings. Soon she was high enough to see the white, barren N end of Elk Benchmark, where the forest had burned away nearly 20 years ago.
Fun among the big rocks. Photo looks E.Up nearly all the way, but not too steep. Photo looks ESE.The white plateau of the N end of Elk Benchmark comes into view. Photo looks N.
Near the top there were hardly any big rocks. Scattered dead trees stood forlornly on an open snowy slope covered with animal tracks and a few human ones, too. Loopster sure would have liked to see some of those Bighorn sheep, but none seemed to be around.
Fully exposed to the cold wind again, Lupe turned S toward the summit, often having to contend with deadfall hidden beneath the snow. The big view of Elk Benchmark(5,669 ft.) back to the N continued to improve.
Lots of tracks up here, but sadly no Bighorn sheep. Photo looks SE.Quite a view of the white N end of Elk Benchmark (Center) now! Photo looks N.Getting close to the top of Peak 5500. Photo looks S.A scenic group of 4 dead trees near the edge. Elk Benchmark (L). Photo looks N.
A little NE of Peak 5500’s true summit, Wildcat Peak(5,500 ft.) came into view. Such a beautiful mountain! Lupe had been to Wildcat Peak nearly 5 years ago.
Wildcat Peak (Center). Photo looks SE.Wildcat Peak from Peak 5500. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
In fact, Lupe had been to Peak5500 before, too. She’d come up over it on that same day in April, 2016 on her way back from Wildcat Peak. Ready to complete her 2nd ascent, Loop headed for the true summit.
True summit of Peak 5500 (R of Center) dead ahead! Photo looks WSW.On top of Peak 5500. Photo looks NE.
The true summit was more of a small area than any one identifiable point, especially with so much snow around. With her 2nd ascent of Peak 5500 complete, Lupe was ready for a break. Fortunately, the forest was close enough to help minimize the wind to some degree. Loop and SPHP hung out enjoying the fabulous view of Wildcat Peak.
Not for long, though! Snow everywhere. No dry place to sit, and enough of a chilly breeze to soon convince both Dingo and human that moving on might be a good idea. Loop ventured back to the NE for a last look at Elk Benchmark before returning briefly to Peak 5500’s true summit. She then headed S exploring Peak 5500’s long summit ridge. The Carolina Dog’s next journey to Wildcat Peak was underway!
Elk Benchmark from Peak 5500. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe didn’t have to go very far S to reach an open region where all the trees were dead. For a rocky, wind-swept stretch hundreds of feet long, she again had big views into Wyoming. Continuing S, Loop regained the protection of a live forest. She had a final look back at the moderately higher true summit before turning SW into the trees.
Last look back at the true summit (L of Center) while exploring Peak 5500’s S ridge. Photo looks N.Getting close to the S end. Photo looks SW.
Where Peak 5500’s S ridge really start to drop off, the forest gave way to more open territory again. With Wyoming less than 0.25 mile away, Lupe got up on a rock formation with a panoramic view.
A grand view of Wyoming! Photo looks SSW.
Loop continued SW down the slope a little way. Easy enough, but what the American Dingo really needed to do was to get down to the saddle leading to Wildcat Peak. With snow still melting on Peak 5500’s SE face, it was just steep and slick enough to be a bit of a challenge for SPHP.
Wildcat Peak (Center) from where Lupe started down into the valley. Photo looks SE.
A slow, cautious descent went fine. Lupe got down to where the terrain leveled out somewhat below and SW of the saddle. Didn’t take her long to get up to it. A big clearing at the saddle was full of deep snow.
Heading down Peak 5500’s SE face. Photo looks NNW.At the saddle between Peak 5500 and Wildcat Peak. Photo looks NE.
The trek up Wildcat Peak was reminiscent of the one up Peak 5500. A bit steeper on average, but the American Dingo was again climbing SE near the E edge of a long ridge. Still plenty of wildlife tracks in the snow, but no human ones here. The fabled Bighorn sheep again disappointed by failing to put in an appearance.
Heading up Wildcat Peak (Center). Fairly steep along in here. Photo looks SE.Following a wildlife highway partway up on easier terrain. Photo looks SE.
As Lupe regained elevation, Elk Benchmark(5,669 ft.) came into sight again, along with a steadily improving view of Peak5500.
Peak 5500 (L) and Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks N.Not far from the top of Wildcat Peak now. Peak 5500 (L) and Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks N.
Wildcat Peak(5,500 ft.) had definite true summit, a huge rock at the NW end of a summit ridge several hundred feet long. Many boulders that weren’t much lower were strung out along the entire length of this ridge, but there was no denying that the one at the NW end was higher than any other.
Loop near Wildcat Peak’s true summit boulder (L). Photo looks NE.
Not a wildcat in sight, SPHP!
Nope. But then why should there be, Looper? If I remember right, last time you were here you proclaimed this mountain to be American Dingo Peak, didn’t you? “Bring it on, Wildcats!” and all that sort of thing.
Oh, that’s right, I did! Kind of forgot about that. Can’t even sniff any sign of a wildcat now.
No wildcat prints in the snow, either. Guess you scared ’em all off. They probably figured you’d be back every now and then to defend American Dingo Peak against all comers.
That must be it! I sort of thought wildcats might still sneak up here now and then, but maybe wildcats know about Carolina Dogs’ reputation for ferocity?
Makes sense to me, Loopster. Certainly explains the current dearth of wildcats. The poor wildcats are terrified to get anywhere near this joint.
The summit boulder was too tall for Lupe to be able to get up onto it by herself. SPHP wasn’t about to lift her way up there, either, when it was all slick with snow on top. No sense in risking a fall.
Instead, both Loop and SPHP got up on the highest rock next to it. As Loopster’s personal representative, SPHP reached up and tapped the top of the summit boulder. Success! Good enough for Dingo work, anyway!
At the true summit, or as close to it as Lupe got. Photo looks NNW.Wildcat Peak or American Dingo Peak – take your pick!
Wildcat Peak’s mostly forested summit region sloped away to the SW, but toward the SE end of the upper ridge there was a clearing with big views to the S. Leaving the true summit, Lupe headed that way.
Heading for the SE end of Wildcat Peak’s summit ridge. Photo looks SE.On a big rock near the SE end. Photo looks SSE.Looking back along the summit ridge. Photo looks NW.
Although it was still quite cool and windy, the snow had partially melted off some of the big rocks near the SE end of the ridge. Choosing a rock with a reasonably big dry spot, SPHP sat down. Lupe snuggled close, and was soon curled up on SPHP’s lap, since solid rock ranks distressingly low on the Dingo comfort scale.
Break time! Taste of the Wild, a chocolate coconut bar, and an apple – the usual fare. It all disappeared while contemplating the dazzling white scene to the S. A huge expanse was in sight, but none of it was higher than Wildcat Peak where Lupe was now.
That wasn’t quite true. Barely detectable way off on the far SW horizon, shimmered a faint white triangle. Might even have been a cloud, except that the triangle never moved or changed. SPHP was almost certain it was actually the top of Laramie Peak(10,272 ft.).
Much closer, 5 miles SSE, were several peaks Lupe had visited nearly 5 years ago. Sullivan Peak(4,967 ft.) and Twin Buttes(4,949 ft.) were both long white ridges, the highest points in that region. Red Point(4,680 ft.) was little more than a tiny, heavily-forested, dark green hill. Nothing red about it!
Looking SSE from Wildcat Peak.The 2 most distant white ridges are Sullivan Peak (L of Center) and Twin Buttes (R). The forested hill (L) is Red Point. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.Looking down Wildcat Peak’s S slope. Photo looks S.Looking SE.
Oh, it’s good to be back on American Dingo Peak, isn’t it, SPHP?
Certainly is, Loop! You going to let the wildcats reclaim their mountain now that you’ve visited it twice?
That’s getting a little radical, SPHP! Maybe we Dingoes can just share it with them? Wouldn’t really mind if some wildcats want to come prowling through here now and then. I actually like cats, you know!
Of course! Cats are cool. And wildcats are super cool!
Brisk, snow-blindingly brilliant, blue sky minutes drifted away one by one. Really was good to be here again. All too soon, it was time for the American Dingo to start back.
An hour after Lupe first reached the top of Wildcat Peak, she passed by the true summit boulder again. Before leaving for good, Loop ventured briefly out to the E edge of the mountain a little NE of the summit.
Everything off to the E looked pretty flat, but it was all a beautiful mix of green forests and white prairies beneath the wild blue sky. Banks of red dirt added a few little splotches of color. A long way to anything higher than Wildcat Peak.
Sadly, time to head back. Photo looks NW.Near the true summit again. Photo looks E.Looking NE.Leaving Wildcat Peak. Peak 5500 (L) and Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks N.
Lupe’s return varied only slightly from the way she’d come up. Down at the saddle leading to Peak 5500, the Carolina Dog simply headed straight up the SE slope. Steep, but no worse than it had been farther W. Once back up on Peak 5500’s S ridge, Loop headed N.
Back on Peak 5500’s S ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Hey, SPHP! I’ve been thinking.
Dat so? What about? Do tell!
This is Peak 5500, right?
Yup.
No other name for it?
Not that I know of, Loop.
Well, then! If the wildcats want their peak back, maybe Peak 5500 can be American Dingo Peak instead? That way everyone’s happy! The giant deers have their Elk Benchmark, the wildcats have Wildcat Peak again, and we American Dingoes have our own mountain, too! How do you like that idea, SPHP?
Mighty considerate of you, Loopster! American Dingoes wouldn’t really lose much in the change, either. Peak 5500 is just as high as Wildcat Peak.
American Dingo Peak is a much snazzier name than plain old Peak 5500, too, SPHP, and Wildcat Peak already had a good name! It’s settled then! Peak 5500 is the new American Dingo Peak! The wildcats can have their mountain back.
OK, fine! As far as we’re concerned, so it is! Only one problem, Looper.
Problem? What problem?
What happens when the Bighorn sheep want their own mountain?
I’m not a magician, SPHP! You snooze, you lose! I’m claiming Peak5500for the American Dingoes. The sheep can have Bighorn Sheep Pass. After all, that’s where they put their sign!
Back at Peak 5500’s summit. (aka the new American Dingo Peak!) Photo looks N.
With the issue resolved, it was – Onward! Puppy, ho! On the way down the NW ridge leading to newly proclaimed Bighorn Sheep Pass, Lupe stopped briefly at some of the big rocks to enjoy the views.
Second time at this rock. Not as snowy as it had been earlier. Photo looks N.On a spiffy Dingo display pedestal. Photo looks NW.A nice look at the lower end of the NW ridge. Most of it is actually in Wyoming, but Lupe is still in South Dakota at this point. Photo looks W.
The Carolina Dog was almost down to Bighorn Sheep Pass, when all of a sudden there was an enchanting sound in the forest. Lupe dashed away, snow flying behind her! SPHP followed the Dingo’s shrill yipping to a squirrel tree.
Pleading with the squirrel to come down and play.
Happy times! Only squirrel of the whole day, but one was better than none. Every bit as good as a Bighorn sheep or a wildcat as far as Lupe was concerned. Joy rang through the forest. Once satisfied that she had given the squirrel what for, Lupe explored some big rocks to the W.
Exploring among rocks just inside Wyoming. Photo looks SW.
Then it was on down to Bighorn Sheep Pass, and a lovely late afternoon stroll on Elk Mountain Road back to the G6. (End 4:18 PM, 41ºF)
Wildcat Peak from American Dingo Peak, Black Hills of South Dakota, 2-22-21
Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!
9-2-20, early afternoon, Gillette, Wyoming –
Well, phooey! This has been a complete waste of time. C’mon, Loop, let’s get out of here!
Disappointing, but on to bigger and better things, SPHP!
Absolutely, sweet puppy!
SPHP turned onto I-90, and the Carolina Dog was soon racing W again in the air-conditioned comfort of the G6, putting behind her more than 2 hours of futile searching for the owners of Antelope Butte(5,073 ft.). Antelope Butte wasn’t much as far as mountains go, just a little hill. Lupe could have climbed it in nothing flat.
Antelope Butte did have one claim to fame. It was one of only 19 high points in the mountainous state of Wyoming with more than 25 miles of isolation, meaning no other higher ground within a 25 mile radius.
SPHP had actually found 2 of the 4 owners of Antelope Butte, who were all members of the same family. Result? Permission unequivocally denied!
Privately owned Antelope Butte several miles S of Gillette, WY as seen from Hwy 59. Photo looks W.
Nothing was going to break the happy mood for long. On to bigger and better things! Lupe’s 4th Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2020 was just getting underway. The G6 hummed NW for hours. It wasn’t until the American Dingo reached Billings, MT that there was any sign of trouble.
Uh-oh! Smoke! Not again! Wyoming had been all sunny and blue. W of Billings, the smoke thickened. Lupe had come such a long way already that she might as well keep going and see what tomorrow would bring. At Columbus, SPHP left I-90, heading S on Hwy 78. S of Absarokee, a R turn on Hwy 419 to Fishtail, then following signs the rest of the way. By dusk, Loopster was at the trailhead.
9-3-20, 7:34 AM, West Rosebud trailhead – As usual first night out on a Dingo Vacation, Lupe had hardly slept a wink. Excited by the prospect of hitting the trail, she’d spent most of the night gazing out the window, watching for any sign of movement. A full moon had risen, illuminating the enormous canyon carved by West Rosebud creek.
Happily, the sky was looking much better this morning. Only a hint of smoke. Lucky! The great moment had arrived. Lupe was on her way.
At the West Rosebud trailhead.Signage by the start of West Rosebud trail No. 19.Mileages.
A short climb and West Rosebud trail No. 19 leveled out. This trail went up the West Rosebud creek canyon, the first major destination being Mystic Lake 3 miles from the trailhead. Lupe was up early enough to have the trail to herself at the moment. She trotted along looking for squirrels, but hearing only the hum of a hydro-electric power plant down in the valley.
Off to a reasonably early start on West Rosebud trail No. 19.On a nice level stretch.
15 minutes from the trailhead, Lupe came to a curved bridge that went over a big white water pipe and a railroad track for a tram. Both started 1,000 feet higher at a surge tank way up on a steep mountainside, and swooped straight down to the hydro-electric plant in the valley. A couple of plaques told the story of this engineering marvel.
Looking up the water pipeline and tram track toward the surge tank. Photo looks W.Loopster on the curved bridge.The hydro-electric powerhouse waiting below. Photo looks E.“Tapping the lake” plaque.“Generating electricity” plaque.
After crossing the bridge, Lupe went on. The West Rosebud trail is very popular, so it was well-worn and a cinch to follow. 15 minutes beyond the curved bridge, the trail reached West Rosebud creek. Scrambling down a short steep bank, Lupe checked it out. The creek had good flow. Crystal clear water tumbled among huge, smoothed boulders in a series of small waterfalls, and gathered in deep pools.
Later in the day, this would be a fabulous spot for a picnic, or even a swim, but it was still very early, so the Carolina Dog kept going.
Heading up the West Rosebud Creek canyon after crossing the curved bridge.By West Rosebud creek.So beautiful!
The trail followed the gorgeous creek for only a little way before leading to another bridge. This bridge crossed West Rosebud creek. The trail then headed back into the forest. 5 minutes, and Lupe came to a sign for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.
Crossing the bridge over West Rosebud creek.Entering the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.
Beyond the sign, the West Rosebud trail was still flat for a little while, but it soon started to climb. Lupe had already gained some elevation, but now the trail became a much more relentless upward trek. Still easy to only moderately steep. Looper continued to make good progress, but every now and then, SPHP paused for breath.
The trail was going SW toward a huge headwall at the upper end of the canyon. As Lupe got closer, the trail began switchbacking higher. The route became much rockier as the trail climbed above the forest. Views improved, and progress could now be measured relative to the big white water pipeline stretching almost horizontally along the opposite canyon wall.
Here on the SE side of the canyon, tremendous rock spires towered way up along the upper edge.
Glancing back at the big white water pipeline (L) on the opposite side of the canyon. Photo looks NNE.A clearer view.Impressive towers! Photo looks SSW.Spires along the upper SE side of the West Rosebud creek canyon.The headwall (Center) the trail was working toward. Photo looks SW.
The trail and the big white water pipe were both heading for Mystic Lake, but from opposite sides of the canyon. It wasn’t until Lupe was clearly somewhat higher than the water pipe that she started getting close to the headwall Mystic Lake was hidden beyond.
After passing next to several vertical rock walls, the West Rosebud trail finally curved W directly toward the headwall. However, it didn’t go far in this direction before bending back to the SW where it entered a small valley. Climbing gradually through this relatively narrow gap, the trail eventually leveled out.
At the far end of the valley, where the gap was narrowest, a strong, cool breeze blew this way as Lupe approached two large boulders the trail went between. As the American Dingo reached the boulders, she got her first look at Mystic Lake.
Making progress, clearly somewhat above the water pipeline now. Photo looks NNE.In the gap. Photo looks SW.First glimpse of Mystic Lake from between the boulders. Photo looks SW.
Set in a huge valley surrounded by forests and massive mountains, the deep blue waters of Mystic Lake made a stunning impression! Facing into the stiff, cool breeze coming off the lake, Lupe looked 120 feet down on a curved dam at the E end. Whitecaps could be seen in the middle of Mystic Lake, its far W end beyond vision. Magnificent!
From here, West Rosebud trail No. 19 curved sharply to the R as it began snaking almost all the way down to lake level. The trail reached Mystic Lake slightly above the rocky S shore, where it then headed W toward a pebbly beach.
Mystic Lake from the gap. Photo looks SW.Starting down the switchbacks leading to the lake. Photo looks N.By the S shore, very close to the E end. Photo looks W.A look at the dam. Photo looks N.
After getting past the initial rocky part of the shoreline, Lupe left the trail to venture out onto the pebbly beach. The American Dingo was the first one here this morning and had the whole place to herself, which was pretty cool. From here she could look back and see the trail winding up to the gap she had come through on top of a wall of rock at the E end of the lake.
On the pebbly beach. The gap Lupe had come through to get here is visible as the notch (slightly to the L of Lupe) on top of the rock wall beyond her. Photo looks NE.
Taking a stroll W along the shore, Lupe explored more of Mystic Lake. She didn’t go too far, just to where the shoreline curved toward the S where more of the main body of the lake was in view. At a weathered log, SPHP sat down for a bit to have some fried chicken while watching the waves roll in, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t hungry yet. Instead, she dashed off into the forest when a squirrel chattered nearby.
Exploring the beach. Photo looks SW.About as far as Loop went along the shoreline.Mystic Lake. Photo looks W.Looking NE back toward the dam from SPHP’s fried chicken feast log.
A pleasant half hour was spent along the shore of Mystic Lake, but that was about all SPHP thought Loop could spare. She’d gained a little over 1,000 feet of elevation getting here, but still had another 2,500 feet to go just to get to base camp. Carrying a heavy pack, SPHP was concerned about how difficult that might prove to be.
Somewhat reluctant to desert such a wonderful place so soon, Lupe left fabulous Mystic Lake heading S through the forest looking for the trail, which was some distance from the shore. She quickly ran across it, though, and turning R (SW), continued on her journey.
Back on West Rosebud trail No. 19.
After 200 or 300 yards, a small clearing appeared ahead. At the same time, Loop reached a junction with a side trail on the L (S). A sign said “Phantom Creek Trail No. 17”. Without going all the way to the clearing, Lupe turned S, following No. 17 as it wound deeper into the forest.
At the start of Phantom Creek Trail No. 17.
Phantom Creek trail No. 17 wasn’t as wide as the West Rosebud trail had been, but at least it started out in good shape. A huge climb was ahead to get to where Lupe was going, and No. 17 soon began steadily gaining elevation. Switchbacks appeared. Great news! They really helped make life easier on the increasingly steep slope Loop was climbing.
On an early switchback.
15 minutes after setting out on Phantom Creek trail No. 17, Lupe reached the only significant water she would come to. A small rushing stream crossed the trail twice in rapid succession, and was never seen again. After that, any water encountered was a mere trickle, scarcely enough for Loop to get a drink.
Cooling paws off in the little stream.
Lupe gained several hundred feet of elevation before getting her first view of Mystic Lake from Trail No. 17 at a small break in the forest. She could see all the way to the W end of the lake from here.
First glimpse of Mystic Lake from Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.
5 minutes later, a couple of partridges, or ptarmigans (?), were on the trail. They hung around just long enough for a photo before flying off.
Partridges or ptarmigans?
The switchbacks went on and on. Most were moderately long. Although the trail was never steep, the heavy pack forced SPHP to keep pausing to gasp for breath. Views kept improving. Absolutely spectacular country!
Wowee! This is quite the trail, isn’t it? Photo looks S.
Lupe gained many hundreds of feet of elevation on the same enormous slope. After what seemed like a long trek, the switchbacks finally started getting shorter. Higher up the slope, it kept looking like Loop was about to come to a top, but she never did. Instead, after going around a bend, the trail suddenly straightened and headed E.
By now the forest had thinned considerably. Ahead was an encouraging sign. A bare hilltop! Apparently there actually was a limit to how much higher Looper was going to have to go.
On the straightaway. Getting up there, but still a way to go. Photo looks E.
Trail No. 17 crossed a steep drainage, then turned N. More switchbacks! Lupe kept going, zig-zagging higher. The trail finally went clear around to the N side of the mountain before starting to turn E again. By now, the views of Mystic Lake more than 2,000 feet lower were amazing! Part of Island Lake was visible beyond the W end. N of both lakes stood Mount Hague(12,323 ft.), and beyond it Twin Peaks(11,793 ft.).
If you don’t like this, you just don’t like mountains!Mystic Lake with Island Lake beyond. Twin Peaks straight past the end of Mystic Lake. Mount Hague (R). Photo looks WNW.
As the trail continued curving E, Lupe came to sort of a little pass. This area was all stunted pine forest, except for a small hill just N of the trail. The W end of this hill was all gravelly. Not much of a climb to get up there. Since this hill might be a last chance to look back at Mystic Lake, Loop ventured up.
Only the W half of Mystic Lake was in sight, but Loopster could see even more of Island Lake than she had been able to before. The amazing, and somewhat horrifying view, though, was of the massive ridge to the S, the same ridge Lupe was trying to get up onto. Oh, my gosh! The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go!
Mystic Lake and Island Lake from the W end of the gravelly hill. Twin Peaks (R). Photo looks W.Still a bit of a trek to get up to that ridge isn’t it? Photo looks SW.
E of the gravelly hill, the forest gave out. Turned out that the gravelly hill had not actually been the last spot to get a good look at Mystic Lake. In fact, the primo viewpoint was an even higher grassy area way up here near the edge of a cliff. Except for a little piece at the far E end near the dam, Lupe could see almost the entire lake. Across the enormous West Rosebud Creek canyon, the top of Mount Wood(12,660 ft.) was now in sight, too!
Even better! Don’t ya, think?Mystic Lake with Island Lake beyond. Twin Peaks (R of Center), Mount Hague (R). Photo looks WNW.Top of Mount Wood behind me!Twin Peaks (far L), Mount Hague (L of Center). Photo looks NW.
The trail kept climbing, winding its way E. Turned out Lupe didn’t have to gain as much elevation as it had seemed back at the gravelly hill. She was heading for a significantly lower part of that same massive ridge, Pass 10140, an enormous saddle that Phantom Creek trail No. 17 went over on its way to another giant canyon where Phantom Creek was.
Still heading higher! Photo looks E.
Shortly after rounding a corner, an unmarked trail junction appeared. A side trail headed SW up a ravine here, no doubt a shortcut to Montana’s state high point, unseen Granite Peak(12,799 ft.), which was still miles away and a technical climb.
The shortcut to Granite Peak is on the R around the next bend. Photo looks SE.Going to Granite Peak? SPHP thinks you should go R here. I’m going L! Photo looks SW.
Skipping the shortcut, Lupe continued E on Phantom Creek trail No. 17. The rate of climb was diminishing. Only 0.5 mile now to Pass 10140!
9-3-20, 2:03 PM, Pass 10140 – Suddenly Lupe was there, crossing a vast, sparsely vegetated plain. Two cowboys riding horses were coming this way. Lupe let them go by before heading over to a cairn halfway across the pass. Not the absolute high point, but close enough.
At Pass 10140. Photo looks ENE.Twin Peaks (L), Mount Hague (Center), and Mount Wood (R) from Pass 10140. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Ho, ho! Loopster, we’re here! Can’t believe it! Been dreading that climb with this dang heavy pack, yet here we are. And so early, too!
We’re here? You mean this is it? We aren’t staying here, are we, SPHP?
Yes, we are! This pass is gonna be base camp. Isn’t it fabulous?
Glad you’re excited, SPHP, but I’m detecting a serious squirrel deficiency.
Squirrels, schmirrels! Sniff around some. You might find something even better than squirrels.
Better than squirrels! Like what?
Oh, I don’t know. Something more exotic, like marmots or mountain goats or grizzly bears. Anyway, I’m pooped. C’mon, let’s go find a spot to pitch your tiny house.
Several hundred feet SW of the trail was a gentle, grassy slope. Not as rocky as the rest of Pass 10140. Looper was soon resting comfortably next to her tiny house with a view of Mount Wood and Mount Hague in the distance.
Base camp at Pass 10140. Mount Hague (Center). Mount Wood (R). Photo looks NW.
9-3-20, 4:13 PM, Pass 10140 – Lunch, and 2 hours of rest and relaxation had done wonders. The American Dingo was starting to get restless. Even SPHP felt revived. Nothing planned, but hours of daylight left.
So what now, SPHP? Do you think you’re up to it? Looks easy.
Heh. Yeah, it does. Tempting, but we probably shouldn’t, Looper. Might regret it tomorrow. Another big day coming.
Oh, c’mon! It’s not that far away! Why don’t we give it a go? Can always turn back, if it isn’t panning out. We’re here with time on our paws. If not now, when? I’ll give you a hint. Never! That’s when.
To the ENE, on the far side of Phantom Creek trail No. 17, was another big chunk of the massive ridge that Pass 10140 was part of. A big conical high point was visible over there, and the terrain leading to it did look pretty easy from here.
The topo map revealed that the cone was likely the site of the “Mystic” survey benchmark, and the top of Saddleback Mountain(10,876 ft.). Loop might also be able to tag Prairieview Mountain(10,575 ft.) along the way. Not that much additional elevation gain on the day, and two 10,000 footers for the price of one! Still, round trip, it would be a good 5 miles, at least. Hmm.
Alrighty, then! Guess we did come here to climb mountains, didn’t we? Onward! Puppy, ho!
That’s the spirit, SPHP!
Prairieview Mountain (small knobs R of Center) and Saddleback Mountain (R) from Pass 10140 base camp. Photo looks ENE.
Heading NE, Lupe crossed Phantom Creek trail No. 17, and started up a long, barren slope. Cake! A few rocks, nothing major. Fun trek. Rapid progress. Why had SPHP even hesitated? This was pure brilliance!
The terrain got rockier. Progress slowed as Loopster scrambled past a minor talus ridge, avoiding the worst of it. Another plain beyond the talus. Scattered bushes and rocks. Still not bad. Prairieview Mountain, an elevated line of rock outcroppings bisecting the enormous ridge, was now just ahead.
Glancing back. Froze to Death Mountain (L). Pass 10140 (R). Photo looks SW.
Most of Prairieview Mountain was a gently rounded ridgeline running N/S dotted with scattered bushes and boulders. However, a number of widely separated rock formations 30 to 50 feet high were strung out along the length of this ridge. These rock formations were similar to each other in that they all consisted of big mounds of large talus.
Coming up near the middle of the ridge, or maybe a bit toward the S, it was clear that the summit had to be farther N. Skipping the closest rock formation, Lupe headed for the next one.
Near the top of Prairieview Mountain looking for the true summit. Photo looks NE.
Approaching the next rock formation to the N, the ground became a sea of massive boulders half sunk into the mountain. Between the boulders grew a profusion of bushes that served to hide how deep the holes they occupied were. Sometimes only a few inches, other times several feet. Where possible, boulder hopping was by far the easiest mode of travel.
Climbing from the S, Loopster got near the top of this rock formation, but the stones at the very top were so massive, there was no way the Carolina Dog could get up there. Retreating, she circled around to the W hoping to find a better route. None! The W and N sides were worse.
Lupe almost made it to the top of this rock formation, but couldn’t scale the highest boulder. Photo looks N.Not happening, SPHP! Same rock formation, opposite side. Photo looks S.
Hah! Didn’t matter. An even higher rock formation was now in sight a little farther N. Close to the far N end of the whole mountain, the true summit had to be over there.
Next rock formation to the N (Center). Photo looks N.
Another boulder hop over to this next jumble of talus, and Lupe once again started up the S side. Too steep! Swinging around to the W, the American Dingo managed to keep gaining elevation, but still couldn’t make it to the top. Every time it seemed like she was getting close, even higher rocks kept appearing a little farther N.
Looking up.
How much farther, SPHP? Can you tell?
Not really. 15 feet, 20, 30? Not at all sure the true summit is even in sight yet, Loop. Can’t be that much higher. At the moment we’re kind of stuck here, though. Practically straight up. We’re going to have to keep working our way around somehow.
Well, how bad do we really want to do this? Isn’t Saddleback Mountain more impressive? Maybe it’s easier than this one?
You might be right! Scrambling around on all this talus is just chewing up a ton of time. We’re gonna break our fool necks, too, if we’re not careful. You got pretty close to the top of Prairieview. Wanna call it, and go on to Saddleback?
Sure! Why waste daylight here, when the glittering prize is over there?
Sort of a shame. Lupe had gotten so close to the top of Prairieview! With enough patience and persistence, she probably could of done it. Oh, well! Life in the mountains. Not always one roaring success after another. A careful descent, and it was on to Saddleback Mountain, still nearly a mile E.
Abandoning Prairieview Mountain. Photo looks WNW.If at first you don’t succeed, on to Saddleback Mountain! (Center) Photo looks E.
Look back again, SPHP!
Huh? What for, Looper?
At Prairieview Mountain.
Oh, for pity sake!
Good thing we gave up on it!
Eh. You could have done it, Loopster. Just would have taken us forever and a day the way we were going about it.
Looking back at Prairieview Mountain, it was now perfectly clear that the true summit was a big boulder perched way over at the N end of a long talus ridge, the same pile of talus Lupe had started up from the S. She may have reached a point not an awful lot lower than where that highest rock sat before giving up, but she had still been an icky long horizontal scramble from where the true summit actually was.
Oh, the joke’s on us! We were climbing the wrong (L) end!True summit of Prairieview Mountain (Center). Photo looks WNW.
Well, whatever! Focus shifted back to the problem at paw. The closer Lupe was getting to Saddleback Mountain, the rockier the upper slopes were looking. Prairieview Mountain on steroids? Hopefully not. A long, gentle N slope appeared to be the easiest approach, but it was far away. Time was ticking. SPHP headed for the S side of the mountain instead.
Saddleback Mountain’s long N slope (L) looked like a lovely gentle ramp to the top. SPHP led Lupe to the R. Photo looks NE.
Worked great! At first. Looper gained quite a bit of elevation on grassy S slopes, but she still had hundreds of feet to go when the talus started getting thick. Lanes of vegetation soon got choked off. The Carolina Dog was gradually forced to circle around to the W side of the mountain as she worked her way higher.
In the end, there was no escaping the talus. The last 200 feet were a slow, steep, treacherous, miserable climb, but bit by bit, Loopster was getting there.
Miserable! What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re doing great! C’mon, pick up the pace!
The sun was already getting low when Lupe reached a flatter region above the final steep scramble. Egads! The whole mountaintop was nothing but talus! Pretty big stuff. It all sloped gradually higher to the S, where 250 feet away a modest cairn was visible at the summit.
Success in sight, Lupe boulder-hopped her way to the top of Saddleback Mountain(10,876 ft.).
Nearly there! Cairn (Center). Photo looks SSE.
9-3-20, 6:51 PM, Saddleback Mountain – Clouds moved in messing with the light moments before the American Dingo reached the true summit. Too bad, but that’s the way the Milkbone crumbles. The good news was that Lupe now stood next to the cairn on the highest of 3 light pink and gray boulders splotched with black lichens that together constitute the tippy top of Saddleback Mountain.
Tie game! Score: Mountains 1 – Dingoes 1.
On Saddleback Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
The summit was right next to the S edge of the mountain. In fact, one of the three highest boulders hung halfway out in space. 360 degree views, of course! Massive ridges, deep canyons, and high peaks in all directions except to the NE where Lupe could see clear out to the plains. The air was smoky over there. Lucky that wasn’t the case up here!
The smoky plains. Photo looks ENE.
To the NW was another perspective on some of the peaks Lupe had seen on the way up Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Mount Wood(12,660 ft.), Mount Hague(12,323 ft.), Twin Peaks(11,793 ft.) and others farther W.
Twin Peaks (L of Center), Mount Hague (R of Center), and Mount Wood (R). Photo looks WNW.
Beyond giant ridges, a line of higher flat-topped peaks was visible far to the SSE. Castle Mountain(12,612 ft.), which Lupe had failed to even get to with her friend Jobe Wymore last month, was somewhere over there. Sky Pilot Mountain(12,047 ft.), too, which she did manage to climb.
SPHP could pick out a peak that looked like Castle Mountain. Sky Pilot would have been hidden beyond it.
The most interesting view of all, though, was to the SW. Phantom Creek and glimpses of Phantom Lake and Froze to Death Lake were visible in a deep canyon. Beyond them stood Mount Peal(12,409 ft.). Farther W, Tempest Mountain(12,469 ft.) and Granite Peak(12,799 ft.), the state high point, soared behind Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).
Mount Peal (Center) and Granite Peak (R). Photo looks SW.Tempest Mountain (L). Granite Peak (L of Center) with Froze to Death Mountain in front of it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe sat perched on Saddleback Mountain’s summit boulder. Not quite half an hour since she’d arrived. Saddleback had been unplanned bonus peak, but a great one. Sad to have to depart so soon. Better get down, though, before the light was gone.
We’re leaving already? I was just getting comfortable!
Looper had barely left the summit when the evening sun broke through the clouds. Suddenly the light was exquisite, the world transformed in an explosion of glowing color and sharp contrasts. A fleeting sublime moment. Lupe paused. What a spectacular end to a spectacular day!
Leaving Saddleback Mountain. Photo looks SE.
Oh, but it wasn’t over yet, not by a long shot! As always, SPHP was super slow on the long, steep talus descent. Lupe wound up much farther NW than where she’d come up, the sun already long gone by the time SPHP escaped Saddleback Mountain’s tenacious grip.
Dusk deepened, and the first stars glittered, as Loop hurried SW across the plain leading to Prairieview Mountain, dodging scattered boulders and black bush-filled holes between them much of the way.
Reaching Prairieview’s ridgeline a little S of center, the flashlight had to come out. Lupe sniffed and roamed as if it were broad daylight, while SPHP stumbled almost blindly forward through infinite rocks and bushes toward the last minor talus outcroppings farther W.
Beyond them, an hour after dark, dramatic improvement. Easy terrain! A gentle downslope! To the E, a rising ghostly white moon frightened the weakest stars from the night sky. An incredible, but weary moonlit trek! Finally across Phantom Creek trail No. 17 and to the tiny house. A famished American Dingo inhaled dinner, and was gone.
Off to Dingo dreamland! Yeah, it did seem like the place to be.
