2017 Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana – Page 3

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Green River Lakes to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

The morning after Lupe’s return from her successful 4 day journey to Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was a lazy one. The Carolina Dog had certainly earned a rest day! SPHP picked up some fried chicken and a salad at Safeway in Lander. Lupe took a couple of easy walks down by the Middle Popo Agie River across from Lander City Park.

By 11:00 AM, it was plenty hot out. McDonald’s had ice cream cones on sale for 50 cents. Even cheapskate SPHP was willing to spring for that! Lupe got lessons in how to eat an ice cream cone. By watching SPHP’s example, she became quite proficient at it. It turns out Carolina Dogs are naturals at eating ice cream cones!

Enjoying a 50 cent McDonald’s ice cream cone in Lander, Wyoming. Lupe caught onto the whole ice cream cone concept in a flash!

Lupe’s next peakbagging objective, Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.), was clear over on the other side of the Wind River Range at the far NW entrance to Green River Lakes. It would take all afternoon to drive over there, so right after the ice cream cones vanished, Lupe and SPHP left Lander and hit the road.

On her grand summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe had spent a day reconnoitering Squaretop Mountain. SPHP has an old book called Wind River Trails by Finis Mitchell, who spent most of his life running a fishing camp in the Wind River Range near the Big Sandy entrance. In it, Mitchell describes a route up Squaretop Mountain from the E leaving the Highline Trail near Beaver Park.

Mitchell wrote that his route up Squaretop Mountain was “not difficult”. He had taken scouting groups, and even a 4 year old child up this way once, yet Lupe had arrived at Beaver Park in late August 2015 only to see towering cliffs. The topo map showed 3,500 feet of elevation gain in less than a mile. No doubt Mitchell knew what he was talking about, but Lupe’s reconnaissance left SPHP desiring a more detailed route description than Finis had provided in Wind River Trails.

On the way back to Green River Lakes, Lupe had met Chad, a friendly forest ranger. Did Chad know of a route up Squaretop? Chad said he’d been to the top of Squaretop himself. He said Mitchell’s route was hard to find since some of the landmarks in his route description (burnt areas) had changed. SPHP asked if there wasn’t a feasible route from the W via Porcupine Pass? Chad confirmed there was one, but it was longer, and he didn’t know the details.

Now, almost two years later, Lupe was on her way to Green River Lakes hoping to find that route from Porcupine Pass to Squaretop Mountain! Hopes were high, bolstered by her success in reaching the summit of Wind River Peak.

The last part of the road to Green River Lakes, which used to be rough, was greatly improved. It was still dusty and washboardy, but wasn’t nearly as stony as in 2015. Gophers were abundant, and frequently dashed across the road as the G6 approached. Lupe was enthusiastic about the gophers, and barked frantically at them as she sped by.

Lupe arrived at the trailhead near Lower Green River Lake at 5:00 PM. Loop and SPHP were both anxious to go down to the lake to get a good look at gorgeous Squaretop Mountain again.

Lower Green River Lake and Squaretop Mountain were every bit as lovely as Lupe and SPHP remembered. Of all the mountains in the Wind River Range, Finis Mitchell had chosen Squaretop for the cover of his book Wind River Trails.

Lupe wading in Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP both went wading in Lower Green River Lake. The mosquitoes were bad, though, and eventually put an end to the fun. Lupe then went down to the Highline Trail bridge where the Green River exits the lake. A sign said that the bridge over Clear Creek (near the opposite end of Lower Green River Lake) was out due to flooding.

Lupe on the Highline Trail bridge over the Green River close to where it exits Lower Green River Lake. The Green River was running high, and a sign said the bridge over Clear Creek near the opposite end of the lake was out due to flooding. Photo looks NNW.

The Green River was running high, full of water from bank to bank. Having just seen how full the creeks were, and how much snow still existed in the high country near Wind River Peak, Lupe wasn’t surprised. With the bridge over Clear Creek out, Lupe wouldn’t be able to take the Highline Trail (No. 94) to Porcupine Pass tomorrow. Fortunately, an alternate route exists. Lupe could still take the Lakeside Trail (No. 144).

Even though Lower Green River Lake is at 7,961 feet elevation, the evening was hot. The mosquitoes were bad. Lupe and SPHP ended up staying in the G6, periodically running the AC to keep cool. While SPHP caught up the journal, Lupe watched gophers. Every now and then, she just had to be let out to bark at squirrels, or sniff at a gopher hole.

The next morning it was time for action! Lupe and SPHP went down to Lower Green River Lake again to admire Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.) before setting out for Porcupine Pass. (8:44 AM, 7-14-17, 66°F).

Lupe at **Lower Green River Lake** the morning of 7-14-17 ready to set out for Porcupine Pass, and eventually **Squaretop Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

**Squaretop Mountain** from **Lower Green River Lake**, Wind River Range, Wyoming. Photo looks SSE.

After a good look at her magnificent objective, Lupe followed the Lakeside Trail S along the W side of Lower Green River Lake. Despite it’s name, the Lakeside Trail is seldom down by the shore. Most of the time the trail stayed in the forest 50 to 150 feet above the lake. Only once in a while did Lupe come to an opening with a good view of the lake and mountains beyond.

Heading S on the Lakeside Trail on the W side of Lower Green River Lake. Despite its name, most of the time the Lakeside Trail is 50 to 150 feet above the shoreline. **Flat Top Mountain (11,823 ft.)** is in the distance on the L. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe was less than halfway along Lower Green River Lake, when a backpacker approached from the opposite direction. He turned out to be quite an interesting fellow. Radek Hecsko was 48 years old, and from the Czech Republic. He billed himself as “Czech Mix”.

Lupe meets “Czech Mix” on the Lakeside Trail. Czech Mix was hiking the Continental Divide Trail from Mexico to Canada.

Czech Mix was hiking the entire 3,100 mile Continental Divide Trail from Mexico to Canada! He had started on May 2 in New Mexico, and hoped to reach the Canadian border by mid-September. In 2015, he had previously hiked the entire 2,600 mile Pacific Crest Trail, which also goes all the way from Mexico to Canada.

Czech Mix jokingly called the Continental Divide Trail the “IPA Trail”. He said he typically hikes 30 miles per day, though not in the most rugged territory, and does take occasional rest days. Depending on the kindness of strangers, he hitchhikes to towns whenever possible to resupply. On the trail he often goes hungry, but in towns he packs in the calories feasting on hamburgers, coffee and IPA’s.

Czech Mix said he might eventually take on the 2,190 mile Appalachian Trail to complete the “Triple Crown”, a feat very few people have ever accomplished. He hadn’t really decided yet, though. It was another massive undertaking. For now he was staying concentrated on enjoying and completing the Continental Divide Trail. Completing the CDT would be a rare accomplishment in itself, since it was the longest of the 3 trails and by far the least traveled.

After petting Lupe, and a nice chat with SPHP, Czech Mix pressed on.

Well, that Czech Mix was mighty impressive, Loopster! Can you imagine tackling a 3,000+ mile long trail through high mountains like that? It’s just plain heroic!

Oh, are we gonna do that?

I’ve no doubt you could, Loop, but I’m not up for it. Completing any one of those trails is a gigantic endeavor! I’ll be happy, if we can just make it to Squaretop Mountain.

Oh, I’m sticking with you, SPHP. I’ll be happy if we can find some squirrels!

**Flat Top Mountain (11,823 ft.)** (L) and **White Rock (11,284 ft.)** (R) from the Lakeside Trail. Lower Green River Lake in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe continued meeting people along the Lakeside Trail. They came strung out in small groups, but were all members of a youth group that had been camped at Twin Lakes. The group leaders were all concerned about an 18 year old, who had wandered off on his own and never showed up at camp last night. Their anxiety was only increased by the knowledge that his father was an attorney.

Two miles from where she’d started, Lupe reached the end of Lower Green River Lake. Another 0.25 mile brought her to a trail junction. Loop turned R on the Porcupine Trail (No. 137). She would be gaining elevation nearly all the way to Porcupine Pass, a good 6 or 7 miles away as the trail goes.

Sign at the trail junction S of Lower Green River Lake. Lupe would take the trail to Porcupine Pass.

Lupe about to hit the Porcupine Trail seen beyond her. Photo looks S.

The Porcupine Trail didn’t begin climbing immediately, however. For almost another 0.25 mile it remained level until Loop reached Porcupine Creek. No bridge! Another ford. Lovely! Lupe had forded a lot of big streams on her way to Wind River Peak, but SPHP had been hoping for a bridge here. No such luck.

Less than 0.25 mile S of the trail junction, Lupe arrives at Porcupine Creek. SPHP had been hoping for a bridge. No such luck.

Actually, that wasn’t entirely true. Upstream of the ford, a log extended over the creek. A thin cable, which could be easily grabbed for support, was stretched high above it. The log’s circumference wasn’t all that large, however, especially toward the far end. Lupe couldn’t grab the cable, and might easily fall. It was a drop of several feet into Porcupine Creek. This makeshift bridge wasn’t going to do.

The near side of the ford was shallow, slow-moving water. The far side was deeper, and a great volume of water seemed to be racing by. What bothered SPHP far more than the ford itself, however, was what was right below it. Only 20 feet below the ford, Porcupine Creek made a sharp bend. This bend was clogged with sunken logs, branches and other debris. The water was over Lupe’s head. If she got swept downstream, she would be pinned with great force against the debris.

Czech Mix hadn’t come this way. The entire youth group had, however. No one had mentioned any problems crossing Porcupine Creek. SPHP didn’t like the setup, but decided to carry Lupe across.

The bottom where the creek was deepest was stony. Fortunately, perhaps due to traffic on the trail, the stones weren’t very slippery. Porcupine Creek turned out to be only knee deep, but SPHP still had a hard time maintaining balance on the uneven bottom against the force of the swift current. The Carolina Dog was glad to be let gently back down on solid ground again, when SPHP managed to struggle across safely.

The Porcupine Trail now began to climb aggressively, switchbacking SW up a steep forested slope. Partway up, Lupe could hear Porcupine Falls somewhere off in the woods to the N, but she never saw it. After gaining 800 feet of elevation, the trail gradually started leveling off. Eventually Porcupine Creek came back into view.

After gaining more than 800 feet of elevation from the ford, Porcupine Creek came back into view again as the trail leveled out. Photo looks W.

Shortly after leveling out, the trail turned NW and forded Porcupine Creek again. It could be seen continuing up a hillside beyond the far bank. Thinking that was just the way to Twin Lakes, SPHP skipped the turn, and led Lupe SW beyond a trail junction staying on the SE side of Porcupine Creek.

The trail Lupe was on soon disappeared in a bog. SPHP was puzzled when it couldn’t be found again on the other side. Where had it gone? No matter. Lupe and SPHP continued onward, bushwhacking through the forest up hilly terrain.

After more than 0.25 mile, Lupe did find the Porcupine Trail again! Belatedly, SPHP suddenly realized the trail to Twin Lakes hadn’t branched off until the Porcupine Trail had crossed over to the W side of the creek. To stay on the trail, Lupe should have taken the ford that SPHP had her skip.

Oh, well. No harm done. Lupe had managed to bushwhack her way through, and it was actually better this way when the creek was so high. The American Dingo’s bushwhacking had avoided 2 stream fords in the process. Puppy, ho! Onward!

Lupe finds the Porcupine Trail again. Although the day had started out mostly sunny, by now the sky was clouding up. Photo looks SW.

The trail was in great condition where Lupe found it. It headed SW up a huge valley. Porcupine Creek was often in view flowing through wide green meadows. The trail almost always stayed out in the open, but gradually deteriorated, becoming muddy and passing through bogs in some places. Lupe had wonderful views of rugged mountains towering over the far side of the valley.

Porcupine Creek flows down a wide valley of green meadows. Lofty peaks towered above both sides of the valley. Photo looks SW.

More than 0.5 mile from where Lupe had picked up the trail again, Porcupine Creek turned W to go around a small forested hill. This was an especially nice spot, and seemed like a good place to take a break. Lupe left the main trail to follow a short side spur down to the stream. Wildflowers grew in abundance. Lupe laid down for a rest. Mosquitoes were a nuisance for the first time today, but they weren’t too bad.

Lupe pauses for a rest near Porcupine Creek. Photo looks W.

Wildflowers were abundant, although bright red ones like these were far less common.

After a pleasant break, Lupe and SPHP continued on. The Porcupine Trail climbed the small forested hill, but soon exited the forest again. For a while the trail was wet and boggy. However, the valley eventually narrowed. The trail became rockier, steeper, and re-entered the forest. Up ahead were mountains with more snow on them than the scattered patches seen up to this point.

Beyond the small forested hill, the trail went back out into the open again. For a while it stayed wet and boggy. Meanwhile, the mountains up ahead were looking snowier. Photo looks S.

As the Porcupine Creek valley narrowed, the trail dried out and became rockier. Lupe started gaining elevation more rapidly. Photo looks S.

Lower down Porcupine Creek had been a gentle meandering stream, but now it was mostly whitewater as it tumbled over increasingly rocky terrain. Photo looks S.

Looking W across the Porcupine Creek valley.

After a long march, the Porcupine Trail finally emerged from the forest again. It approached Porcupine Creek, closely following the E bank. As Lupe continued S, the trail disappeared straight into a huge snowbank. Efforts to pick up the trail on the far side of the snowbank failed. Sigh. What now?

Lupe had been making good progress toward the upper end of the long valley. Ahead was another stretch of forest, but it couldn’t be too much farther to open ground again. There seemed to be no choice, but to resume bushwhacking and see where it led. The American Dingo climbed back into the forest.

The forest was denser here than where Lupe had bushwhacked before. It wasn’t too hard to get around, though. Loopster soon came to two substantial tributaries of Porcupine Creek in quick succession. They were wild, whitewater streams that plunged W down from mountains on the E side of the valley.

Bushwhacking through the forest again, Lupe came to two substantial tributaries of Porcupine Creek in quick succession.

Fortunately neither tributary was so large that Lupe couldn’t find a safe place to ford them in short order. Looper hadn’t gotten too far beyond the second stream when she reached the end of the forest. She started crossing a meadow, and came across the Porcupine Trail yet again.

SPHP didn’t realize it at the time, but the trail had once again crossed over to the W side of Porcupine Creek for a short distance before returning to the E side. So what? Lupe’s bushwhacking had avoided another 2 fordings. She was close to the end of the valley now. Porcupine Pass was less than a mile away! The trail went SE, heading straight for it.

Back on the Porcupine Trail again. Lupe is getting close to **Porcupine Pass** (Center), now less than a mile away. Photo looks SE.

The trail became progressively steeper and steeper. Soon Lupe was on switchbacks. The forest began to thin out. The trees became stunted. When Lupe reached treeline, Porcupine Pass was in view. It was nothing like SPHP expected.

Porcupine Pass is at 10,700 feet elevation. Yet due solely to its name, SPHP had always thought of it as being forested. Thought of it as a place one might find porcupines – not that finding a porcupine was a good idea. An encounter with one might end very badly for Lupe.

No worries, though, on that score! Only scattered trees remained in view ahead. None at all were up on the high saddle which appeared to be Porcupine Pass. Lupe was still hundreds of feet below the pass. A very long, steep snowbank led up to the top. Egads!

Above tree line, Lupe’s first really good look at Porcupine Pass (L) was nothing like SPHP expected. Photo looks S.

Lupe continued up the trail, now hidden beneath snow, until she got close to the steep final slope leading up to Porcupine Pass. Here she left the trail, and traveled E climbing a rocky hill. She got up high enough for a good look around at the terrain in most directions.

Still hundreds of feet below Porcupine Pass, but not far from it, Lupe had this grand view of the Porcupine Creek valley she had just traveled up. Photo looks NNW.

Looking W. The Jim Creek Trail, which Lupe had bypassed while bushwhacking, is somewhere on the green slope on the opposite side of the valley.

The view to the E was the critical one. It was decision time. SPHP had originally planned for Lupe to go all the way on up to Porcupine Pass. From there she would head E tomorrow for New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) and Peak 11,820 on her way to Squaretop Mountain (11,625 ft.).

However, an alternate route skipping New Benchmark entirely might be possible by continuing E from here without ever going all the way up to Porcupine Pass. The topo map seemed to suggest this might be an easier route.

SPHP hesitated. The view to the E was not all that reassuring. Going E didn’t look clearly possible or impossible for Lupe. There was a lot of rough, rocky ground. Half a mile away or more was a wall of rock. From here, SPHP couldn’t see enough detail to tell for certain if Loop might be able to skirt it to the S, or not.

Looking E from below Porcupine Pass. Lupe could skip Porcupine Pass and **New Benchmark** going this way, but it looked like a lot of rough terrain. Could she even get past the wall of rock seen on the N (L) bypassing it to the S (R)?

Another look E with more help from the telephoto lens.

A significantly longer, but perhaps less rugged option was also in sight to the NE. That route all depended on whether Lupe could manage to get up on a big ridge at the end of a valley. She probably could, but she’d have to travel quite a distance to find out for sure.

Another alternate route was in sight. Maybe Lupe could travel up the distant upper valley seen L of Center and climb up on the big ridge at the end? Once on the ridge, she could head SE bypassing both **New Benchmark** and **Peak 11820**. That might work, but certainly seemed to be the long way around. Photo looks NE.

Maybe all of the routes would work? Maybe none of them would. The decision on which way to go was an important one, perhaps critical if Lupe was going to have any success in reaching Squaretop Mountain. Yet the right thing to do wasn’t at all clear. Lupe could only try one approach. SPHP wasn’t carrying enough supplies for any more than that.

Only short sections of the trail switchbacking 400 feet up the steep slope to Porcupine Pass were visible. The vast majority of the trail was buried beneath a long steep snowfield. However, a lane of snow-free ground existed E of the trail. It was very steep, but Lupe could climb that slope easily enough. SPHP could probably manage it, too.

In the end, SPHP decided to stick with the original plan. Lupe began the climb up to Porcupine Pass.

Lupe on the final steep slope leading to Porcupine Pass. Photo looks S. And up!

It was a good thing the slope wasn’t any steeper, or SPHP wouldn’t have made it. There were places where there was nothing firm to hang onto. Traction wasn’t always good. Yet it wasn’t long before Loop and SPHP were safely up at Porcupine Pass. The views were impressive!

Loop arrives at **Porcupine Pass**! She had an impressive view of the long Porcupine Creek valley (R) she had traveled up to get here. Photo looks NNW.

The Dodge Creek valley from Porcupine Pass. Photo looks SSE.

Porcupine Pass was beautiful, but barren. It felt cold, remote and forlorn. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since leaving the Lakeside Trail many miles ago. It had been a long day. For hours during the afternoon there had been dark clouds off to the NW, but now that it was evening, the sky had partially cleared. There were still clouds around, but they didn’t look threatening.

Congratulations, Loopster! This is it. Porcupine Pass. You made it!

We’re staying here?

Yeah, for tonight. I’ll set up your tiny house in a minute. Want to climb that hill to the W for a look around, once it’s up? It’s Porcupine Pass Peak (10,890 ft.). Won’t take long.

Can we do it in the morning, SPHP? I’m hungry, and ready for a snooze. Mosquitoes are bugging me even up here. I’d sort of like to get in the tiny house, and call it a day.

Sure, we can do that. I’d wish for a breeze to blow the bloodsuckers away, but its probably not a good idea.

Why not?

I have a feeling Porcupine Pass would be an absolute hurricane if the wind came up. We’re lucky it’s a calm evening, even if we have to put up with some bad bugs. Anyway, you’re right. Tomorrow’s our big push for Squaretop Mountain. We may as well eat and rest up for it as much as possible. Just getting to New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) might be an ordeal, and Squaretop is miles beyond it.

Are we going to have problems?

Dunno. Maybe. New Benchmark looks far more challenging than I’d expected. However, once we’re beyond it, you’ll have gained all the elevation you need to, and the terrain ought to be a lot easier. It better be, if we’re ever going to make it to Squaretop. We’ll see, though. One thing is for certain, tomorrow will be another long day.

Whatever. What’s for dinner?

For you, Alpo and Cliff bar.

Oh, that doesn’t sound bad at all! Hurry up and get the tiny house assembled, would you? I’m famished!

On it!

Lupe at **Porcupine Pass**, with her fully assembled tiny house in the background. Photo looks SSE.

View to the E toward **New Benchmark** (R) from **Porcupine Pass**. Tomorrow Lupe would have to go over **New Benchmark** and miles beyond it, if she hoped to get to **Squaretop Mountain**.

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & the Highline Trail to Beaver Park, Wind River Range, WY (8-30-15)

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Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 4: Tayo Lake to Worthen Meadow (7-12-17)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

The sun was up, and so was SPHP, busily engaged in breaking camp. Was Lupe OK? For once, it was the American Dingo that still seemed tired. Lupe remained relaxing in her “tiny house” until SPHP was ready to disassemble it.

Looking WNW from Lupe’s “tiny house” the morning after she’d climbed Wind River Peak. It was going to be a glorious, but long day.

Come on out of there, Loop! It’s a glorious morning, and we have a long day ahead of us.

What’s the rush? Are we going to climb Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) again?

I wish, but no, we aren’t. As much as I hate to leave such beautiful territory, it’s time to head back to civilization. The rush is that this whole trip was only supposed to take 3 days, and this is the 4th day. I’ve already had a bite to eat this morning, but now all I have left is one Cliff bar. No doubt you’ll want at least half of it.

We’re out of food!?

I am. You still have plenty Taste of the Wild. At least, until I start chowing down on it, which will happen tomorrow for sure, if we don’t get out of here. It’s a long way back to Worthen Meadow Reservoir.

What flavor did you say that Cliff bar was?

I didn’t, but it’s chocolate coconut, if you must know.

Oh, that does sound good! Let’s get going!

Lupe ready to leave base camp S of **Wind River Peak**. **Lake 11,145** is in view. Photo looks WNW.

Only 500 or 600 feet S of base camp, Tayo Lake came into view. Most of the lake was still covered in snow and ice. What a beautiful sight it was! It really was a shame to have to leave.

Shortly after departing base camp, ice and snow-covered **Tayo Lake** came into view again. **Mount Nystrom (12,356 ft.)** (Center) is in the distance. On the way past **Tayo Lake**, Lupe would go down the long ridge seen on the L. Photo looks SSE.

Loop had just been feeling lazy back in her tiny house. There wasn’t a thing wrong with her. On the way down to Tayo Lake, she was bursting with energy. She had a great time racing across the open heather and frisking on big snowbanks.

When Lupe got close to the end of Tayo Lake, SPHP suggested leaving the ridge to go down to the shore near the Tayo Creek outlet. Loopster was in favor of that. She hadn’t actually been to the lake shore on the way to Wind River Peak. This was her last chance to see it.

The water was perfectly still. High rock ridges reflected in the silvery smooth surface. Lupe could hear the nearby gurgling of Tayo Creek starting down the valley. Beyond Tayo Lake was the big green ridge where she’d spent the past two nights in her tiny house at base camp. From there she’d been able to look down on Lake 11,145, now hidden in a cirque above Tayo Lake. Wind River Peak towered over it all. Only yesterday, Lupe had been up there.

After a few minutes lost in contemplation of the magnificent scene, Lupe reminded SPHP it was time to press on. SPHP led Loopster back up onto the ridge. She then started S down wide snowy lanes flanked by stunted forest.

As Lupe descended, SPHP kept watching for the route she had taken up to Tayo Lake 2 days ago, but never really found it. Uncertain whether the Carolina Dog was too far W or E, SPHP led her back and forth in both directions. Lupe traveled over snowfields SPHP was certain she hadn’t been to before. Gradually it dawned on SPHP that Loop was too far W. It wouldn’t really matter, though, would it? The terrain should eventually funnel all routes down to the same general area.

The first indication of a potential problem came when Lupe reached a rushing stream. Cascading swiftly down a narrow channel, the stream was large enough to be Tayo Creek, yet Lupe was W of it. How could that be? Lupe had started off E of Tayo Creek when she left Tayo Lake, and hadn’t crossed it. SPHP was also certain Looper hadn’t crossed or even seen this stream on the way up to Tayo Lake 2 days ago. The maps revealed nothing. Hmm.

The first sign of a potential problem came when Lupe reached this swift stream somewhere well below Tayo Lake. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe followed the gushing stream down to a large clearing where it fed into a pond. A short distance below the pond, a smaller stream flowed down from the NW to join the larger one. The smaller stream almost certainly had to be Tayo Creek. Tayo Creek wasn’t particularly wide here, but was fairly deep.

Lupe reaches another smaller creek coming down from the NW. This had to be Tayo Creek. Photo looks WNW.

The larger stream just above the confluence with Tayo Creek. Photo looks NE.

Loop needed to get across Tayo Creek, but SPHP didn’t relish the idea of fording it. Near the confluence of the creeks, snow bridges extended over both streams. All the snow banks Lupe had crossed higher up had been strong enough to hold even SPHP’s weight. These snow bridges looked substantial, too.

Just below the confluence, another snow bridge went over the combined streams. If the snow bridge over Tayo Creek collapsed, Lupe might get swept under the downstream bridge where SPHP couldn’t help her.

The snow bridge over Tayo Creek just below the confluence with the large stream Lupe had been following. If Lupe got swept under it while trying to cross Tayo Creek, SPHP wouldn’t be able to help her.

SPHP tested the snow bridge by the edge of Tayo Creek. It seemed plenty sturdy enough. Lupe would be fine, if she went first.

Lupe ready to dash across the snow bridge over Tayo Creek. Photo looks SE.

Lupe dashed across the snow bridge with no problem. SPHP followed. The snow bridge held. Well, that was easy! Way easier than fording the creek would have been.

Lupe was now W of Tayo Creek. She wouldn’t have to cross it again, but knew from experience other big streams were still ahead. The American Dingo followed Tayo Creek S. She ran and sniffed happily in open green forest. Meanwhile, the stream plunged into a narrow canyon. Lupe was losing elevation much more slowly. Tayo Creek was soon far below her.

After crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe ran and played in an open green forest. Meanwhile, Tayo Creek plunged down a narrow canyon, leaving Lupe on much higher ground. Photo looks SE.

Tayo Creek disappeared from view. Lupe continued through the forest in a S or SE direction, still losing elevation. A mere 15 minutes after crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe arrived at yet another large stream. This was the stream flowing E from Coon Lake.

15 minutes after crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe arrived at this stream from Coon Lake. Photo looks WSW.

The stream from Coon Lake was too wild to ford where Lupe reached it. Loop and SPHP followed it upstream looking for a place to cross. After 15 minutes, SPHP saw a single flat rock that the entire stream was flowing over. The water was shallow and evenly spread. Lupe could cross there!

A 15 minute upstream search brought Lupe near this flat rock where the stream was evenly spread out and shallow. Lupe could cross here! Photo looks SW.

Lupe had other ideas. While SPHP started for the flat rock, she found some other place to cross the creek. Suddenly, there she was on the opposite S bank!

Before she even reached the big flat rock, Lupe found a way across the stream from Coon Lake all on her own. SPHP never saw how she did it, but suddenly, there she was standing proudly on a snowbank on the far shore. Photo looks SW.

Having made it over the creek all on her own, Lupe was anxious for SPHP to follow. The big flat rock wasn’t far away, but rocks, trees and a considerable quantity of deadfall made it a struggle to get there. SPHP shouted to Lupe to stay where she was. For several minutes, she did. However, Loop became increasingly concerned as SPHP continued crashing around obstacles on the opposite shore.

When SPHP reached the flat rock, it was possible to see a good snow bridge only a little farther upstream. That would be an even better place to cross! SPHP pleaded with Lupe to remain where she was, but when SPHP turned away she couldn’t wait any longer. Suddenly she was at SPHP’s feet again, fine and dandy. She’d crossed the stream unseen a second time.

Upon reaching the snow bridge, Lupe could see she wasn’t far below a massive snowfield that extended out of sight up the slope to the W. Coon Lake must be up there somewhere, perhaps not too far away. Unfortunately, the already long day ahead meant Lupe didn’t have time for a side trip to go see it. She crossed the creek from Coon Lake for the third time on the snow bridge with SPHP.

S of the creek again, Loop headed SE through the forest. Half an hour went by before she reached another big stream. This was the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake.

After safely crossing the stream from Coon Lake 3 times, Lupe arrives at the next large stream. This one flows N out of Mountain Sheep Lake. Photo looks S.

Once again, Lupe had reached the stream at a poor place to attempt a crossing. She traveled upstream looking for a better spot, and soon stumbled upon Mountain Sheep Lake itself. The pretty lake was long, narrow, and tucked in a deep side valley off the main canyon Tayo Creek flows through.

Looking for a way across the stream from **Mountain Sheep Lake**, Lupe arrives at the lake itself. **Mountain Sheep Lake** was a beautiful sight tucked away in a deep side canyon. Photo looks S.

A short break was taken to admire Mountain Sheep Lake. When it was over, the problem of where to cross the outlet stream still needed to be resolved. There seemed to be two choices. Not too far downstream from the lake, the creek flowed through a rocky area where it might be possible to rock hop most of the way over.

A little downstream of Mountain Sheep Lake the creek passed through this stony area where Lupe might be able to rock hop most of the way across. Photo looks N.

The other choice was to ford the creek right at the outlet from Mountain Sheep Lake. The stream was wide here, but relatively shallow most of the way. The current was slower, too.

Looking across the outlet from **Mountain Sheep Lake**. Photo looks E.

SPHP thought maybe the outlet was the better choice. Convinced Lupe wouldn’t have a problem, SPHP started across, but Loop didn’t follow. SPHP made it to the opposite bank only to turn around and see poor Loop still stranded on the other side. She was intimidated by the width of the stream.

After crossing the stream at the outlet of **Mountain Sheep Lake**, SPHP turned around to find Lupe still stranded on the far shore. She was scared of the width of the creek, and hadn’t dared come across. Photo looks SW.

SPHP shouted encouragement to Loop. She could do this!

Lupe hesitated, clearly torn over what to do. She went back and forth along the far bank looking for an answer to her predicament. Finally, as she stood on a rock projecting into the stream, another urging from SPHP seemed to embolden her. She went back to the bank, then waded into the cold water. She had to swim, but only a little bit. Lupe made it across.

SPHP had rewarded Loop with pieces of the last chocolate coconut Cliff bar after she’d crossed Tayo Creek, and again after she’d crossed the creek from Coon Lake. Lupe looked at SPHP expectantly.

Guess, I knew all along you’d get most of this Cliff bar. Here you go, Loop.

I earned it!

Yes, I know. You did great, Looper.

Lupe wouldn’t face another major stream crossing for a long way now. The next landmark she would go by would be Poison Lake, about a mile to the NE. Lupe had a fantastic time in the forest, staying well S of Tayo Creek. The Carolina Dog displayed great energy and enthusiasm, crossing many minor streams and numerous big bogs. She frolicked and cooled off on snowbanks melting away in the soggy forest. She was back in prime squirrel territory, and spent much of her time barking happily.

Going around the SE end of Poison Lake, Lupe returned to the rock platform overlooking the lake she’d been to before on the way up. The sun was almost directly overhead. Time for another break. Lupe and SPHP sat together with a view of Wind River Peak far beyond Poison Lake. What little was left of the chocolate coconut Cliff bar met its doom.

Lupe at the edge of the rock platform overlooking **Poison Lake**. **Wind River Peak** (R) is in view in the distance.

Beyond Poison Lake, Lupe continued following the Tayo River downstream. She didn’t stay as close to it as she had on the way up, since she didn’t need to find a way across. She did see one of the two waterfalls she’d discovered on the way up, but whether it was the upper or lower falls, SPHP didn’t remember.

Lupe had a wonderful time in the forest, but she finally reached Lower Tayo Park again and came to the Middle Popo Agie River. She forded it at the S end of Lower Tayo Park just as she’d done before.

Lupe reaches the **Middle Popo Agie River** again at the S end of **Lower Tayo Park**. This was where she’d started her successful divide and conquer strategy two days ago that enabled her to get to **Tayo Lake** and **Wind River Peak**. Photo looks W.

Fording the **Middle Popo Agie River** at the S end of **Lower Tayo Park**. Photo looks SW.

Looking NW across **Lower Tayo Park**. **Tayo Creek** emerges from the forest across the valley to join the **Middle Popo Agie River** here. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had finally made it back to a trail! SPHP was curious to see what conditions were like now back at the ford where Trail No. 707 crosses the Middle Popo Agie River below its confluence with Tayo Creek. The situation really hadn’t changed much at all. The ford was still as badly flooded as it was before.

Lupe returned to Middle Fork Trail No. 700, and followed it NE downstream along the Middle Popo Agie River. She was getting close to the junction with Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 when a backpacker appeared ahead. He was the first person Lupe and SPHP had seen in 75 hours – more than 3 days.

The backpacker was from Flagstaff, Arizona. He said he was on his way to Tayo Lake, but had nearly turned back at the Stough Creek ford. SPHP explained the situation he would soon face at the flooded ford in Lower Tayo Park, and also described how Lupe had bushwhacked all the way to Tayo Lake and Wind River Peak.

Lupe by the **Middle Popo Agie River**. The trail junction where she would leave it to head for **Stough Creek** was nearby. Photo looks NNE.

The backpacker went on. Lupe would never know if he made it to Tayo Lake using her bushwhacking route or not. She soon left the Middle Popo Agie River on Trail No. 704 to Stough Creek.

Until now, Lupe had been going downhill nearly all day long. Now she had to climb. The American Dingo did great. She still had plenty of energy to run around looking for squirrels in the forest. SPHP felt played out, though. Going uphill was tough. At least a lot of snow had melted since Lupe had last been here, so it was easier to follow the trail.

Lupe reached the ford at Stough Creek. The situation had not changed from 3 days ago. SPHP still didn’t like the looks of it. Stough Creek was too fast, deep and scary! SPHP was going to have Lupe cross a little upstream of the ford again, then remembered the bridge over Stough Creek near the next trail intersection higher up. Maybe Lupe could just bushwhack up to that bridge?

Loop abandoned the trail for the final bushwhacking session of her Wind River Peak adventure. She hadn’t gone far when she came to a sizable tributary of Stough Creek. Loop forded this lesser creek, and entered a lovely green field that proved to be sopping wet. Another bog! She traipsed across it, and a second one, too, before finally reaching the forest and dry land on the other side.

The off-trail climb through the forest was steep. Lupe came to another major tributary of Stough Creek. It was all whitewater where Lupe reached it.

Lupe reaches a 2nd major tributary of Stough Creek trying to bushwhack up to a bridge.

Lupe followed the tributary upstream to where the terrain leveled out. Here she could ford the tributary without much of a problem. Shortly after crossing the tributary, she found a trail. Lupe followed the trail N. Within 300 feet she arrived at the bridge over Stough Creek. Yes!

Lupe on the bridge over Stough Creek. Bridges were a rare luxury on Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back. Photo looks N.

Lupe had finally reached Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. It would take her the rest of the way back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead, still a good 5 miles away. Only one major creek crossing remained, Roaring Fork Creek which would come near the end. Onward!

On Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. This trail would take Lupe all the way back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead.

The Carolina Dog was now in a nearly level part of the forest. She soon came to the area where stagnant yellow and orange ponds were scattered among the trees. Up until now, the mosquitoes hadn’t been bad, but here they were terrible.

The climb back up to the high saddle N of High Point 10965 where Lupe had first seen Wind River Peak on her way in was torturous for SPHP, who was nearly exhausted by now. The plucky American Dingo was unfazed. Mosquitoes drove SPHP on. Even when Lupe reached the high saddle, they were bad enough to prevent any long delay. Lupe and SPHP did pause for a few moments, though, to gaze upon the grandeur of Wind River Peak for a final time.

A last look back at **Wind River Peak** from the high saddle. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

It was still 3 miles back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead from the high saddle. Nearly all of it was downhill, which helped SPHP a great deal. The constant whine of mosquitoes was maddening, but all the Deet was long gone. Lupe busied herself looking for squirrels in the forest. Rest assured American Dingoes never tire of this sport.

Another squirrel spotted! What could be more fun?

At long last, the final ford over Roaring Fork Creek next to Roaring Fork Lake appeared. Lupe ran down to the stream and plunked herself down in the water to cool off.

Lupe cools off in **Roaring Fork Creek**. This was the final stream ford of Lupe’s 4 day Wind River Peak adventure. Photo looks SE.

Roaring Fork Creek didn’t look any different than it had 3 days ago. The water was just as high as before. No matter. In a cloud of mosquitoes, SPHP prepared to cross, then simply went for it.

This time, SPHP stayed upstream of the big rock. The water wasn’t mid-thigh deep here like it was downstream of the rock, but was still several inches over the knee. The even gravelly bottom and gentle current made this ford seem trivial now after all the streams and rivers Lupe had crossed on the way to Wind River Peak and back.

Lupe hadn’t come, though. The water was over her head for a long way. SPHP tried coaxing her from the opposite bank, but without the aid of the enticing chocolate coconut Cliff bar, Lupe stayed put. Seeing further entreaties were futile, SPHP dumped the backpack and waded back into the stream.

As soon as Lupe saw help was on the way, she plunged into Roaring Fork Creek and started swimming toward SPHP. She remembered being on the big rock SPHP had put her on before midstream and swam to it. However, the rock was steep where she reached it. She tried, but Lupe couldn’t get up on it by herself. The current carried her out of sight behind the rock.

Lupe didn’t reappear downstream. What was happening? No doubt she was still striving to get up on the rock, but SPHP couldn’t see her. Before SPHP could get there, Loop grew fearful and gave up. Suddenly she was in view again heading back to shore. SPHP continued over to get her.

SPHP picked the cold, drenched Carolina Dog up, and carried the grateful, dripping Dingo across Roaring Fork Creek. Lupe’s last adventure of her 4 day journey to Wind River Peak was over.

At Worthen Meadow Reservoir, Lupe lost no time hopping into the G6 (9:00 PM). She curled up on her pillows and blankets, licked herself clean, and devoured an entire can of Alpo. She still had room for a McDonald’s cheeseburger in Lander an hour later. The night time scene at Lander City Park was astonishing. The place was absolutely packed with tents and RV’s.

SPHP took the last parking spot available. It was right beneath a bright streetlight. For some strange reason the streetlight cycled on and off at 30 second intervals. After Lupe’s long march all the way from Tayo Lake, it was only a minor annoyance. Lupe and SPHP were both fast asleep, dead to the world, still dreaming of fabulous Wind River Peak.