Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 74 – Willow Creek to Sylvan Lake (1-19-14)

Willow Creek Horse Camp, Norbeck Wildlife Preserve (10:28 AM, 49°F)

At last!  Grandma was doing lots better, and it was an amazingly warm day for January.  For the first time in a month and a day, Lupe was heading out on one of her Black Hills expeditions – her first of 2014.  A few inches of snow only served to make the Carolina Dog even more joyous and revved up!  Not a soul was around as she charged ahead on Willow Creek Trail No. 8, sniffing madly.

The trail went S through a forest of tall pines and spruce trees.  It wound around going up and down before crossing small, frozen Willow Creek.  Across the creek, the trail divided.  One branch went S up the creek valley, the other turned NW and quickly brought Lupe to a cul-de-sac at the end of a gravel road.

Lupe’s ultimate objective for the day was to reach Sylvan Lake, which she had never been to before.  Somewhere around here, Loop was supposed to take Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, but there were no signs indicating which way to go.  A rather primitive trail headed SW from the cul-de-sac.  Since that was the right general direction, Lupe and SPHP tried it.

The primitive trail gained elevation steadily.  At first, a few footprints in the snow helped show where the trail went, but they ended at a large clearing where the snow became deeper.  Lupe and SPHP had to guess which way to go.  Continuing SW across the open ground toward the next part of the forest seemed to be the thing to do.

Near the trees, Lupe found the trail again.  As expected, it did head into the forest.  There was less snow here, but quite a few dead trees had fallen across the trail.  The situation only became worse as Lupe proceeded.  The deadfall timber slowed SPHP down significantly.

After a little while winding through the forest, Lupe reached another intersection where the trail divided.  The trail heading S started climbing more steeply up the mountain.  The trail going N was less steep.  It went toward a less heavily forested hillside where it curved W.  SPHP wasn’t sure which way to go, but tried the trail to the N.

As the trail turned W, it became apparent why this hillside wasn’t as heavily forested.  Pine bark beetles had decimated the trees.  Lots of tree trunks were still standing, but the upper portions of the trees had snapped entirely off the trunks.  The trail was covered with deadfall timber.  The snow was deeper here, too.  It was slow going fighting both the deadfall and the snow.  Lupe and SPHP spent far more time off the trail trying to get around all the obstacles than on it.

Fortunately, this bad stretch of trail didn’t last long.  After 0.25 mile, Lupe came to a footbridge crossing Palmer Creek.  A long field paralleled the creek on the other side of the bridge.  Across the field, the trail ended at the Palmer Creek trailhead.  A map posted at the trailhead showed that Lupe had been on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at least since leaving the cul-de-sac.  However, the last 0.25 mile of difficult trail leading to this trailhead was only a spur.  Lupe would have to retrace it to continue S on up the mountain.

Looking SW up the Palmer Creek valley from near the footbridge.

So Lupe followed the spur trail back across the field, over the bridge, and all the way back to the trail junction.  This time she took Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 going S up the mountain.  The trail entered a more heavily forested area again as it started climbing rapidly.  The snow deepened.  Deadfall timber continued to block the trail at regular intervals, but wasn’t as bad as on the spur trail.

Lupe climbed for what seemed like a long time.  On the way, she entered the Black Elk Wilderness.  The views were steadily improving.  Finally the trail leveled out.  Lupe had reached a high, rocky area, part of a massive ridge of granite.  Lupe left the trail temporarily to explore the rock formations and take in some of the views from here.

Lupe left Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to explore among the rocks on this big granite ridge. The long ridge with high points at both ends seen in the distance a little R of Center is Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.). Photo looks WNW.

Although Lupe had gained hundreds of feet of elevation, she could still see other peaks and ridges that were just as high or higher than where she was now.  She returned to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to resume her climb.

The trail continued steadily up for a while, but eventually crested at a broad saddle near 6,350 ft. elevation.  Due to pine bark beetles, the forest here was a mess.  However, the devastation had opened up a view of a rocky high point just to the E.

This seemed like a good place to take a break.  SPHP sat on one of the many fallen tree trunks near the trail.  Lupe enjoyed Taste of the Wild, SPHP had the usual apple, and both had water.

Lupe reached the crest of Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at this saddle 0.33 mile NE of Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.). The rocky hill seen here is E of the trail. Photo looks E.

After 15 minutes, SPHP’s feet started getting cold.  Time to press on and get the circulation going again!  Lupe continued S on the trail.  It wound around through the forest, but was no longer gaining elevation.  Farther along, the forest was in much better condition.  The pine bark beetles hadn’t hit it nearly so hard here.

As Lupe continued S on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, the forest was in better condition.

About 1.5 miles from the break point at the saddle, Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 left the Black Elk Wilderness and ended at a junction with Harney Peak Trail No. 9.  At 6,405 feet, this was the highest elevation Lupe would reach all day.

Lupe wasn’t going all the way to Harney Peak (7,242 ft.).  Instead, she turned SW on Harney Peak Trail No. 9 in the direction of Sylvan Lake.  The trail would take her 0.75 mile down a valley to the Sylvan Lake trailhead, Custer State Park’s most popular starting point for the 3+ mile hike (one way) to Harney Peak.

Trail No. 9 was snow-packed, icy and very slippery.  Even though it’s a wide, heavily traveled trail and not particularly steep, the going was treacherous for SPHP.  The day was warm enough to melt some snow, allowing water to run over the ice.  The ice, however, had hardly softened up at all.  The wet ice was super slick.  Even an American Dingo slipped and slid in some places.

Lupe had never been here before, but SPHP had.  The valley along the trail had been transformed since the last time SPHP had seen it.  Apparently pine bark beetles had hit hard.  Consequently, bulldozers had been all over the NW side of the valley completing the destruction.  The forest had been severely thinned.  A once shady hike beneath tall pines and spruce was now far more open and exposed.

The damaged hillsides looked bad.  On the plus side, it was much easier than it used to be to see some of the large rock formations on the SE side of the valley.

With so many beetle killed trees removed, views of large rock formations across the valley from Harney Peak Trail No. 9 on the way to Sylvan Lake were much better than they used to be. Photo looks SSE.

A surprising number of people were around when Lupe reached Sylvan Lake.  A dozen cars were parked near the lake close to the picnic ground.  Lupe and SPHP went over to the small sandy beach on the NE side of the lake.  Nearly all the large beautiful pines that used to provide shade around the perimeter were gone.  It was a sad sight.

Close to the beach, Lupe climbed up on a big granite formation that juts out into Sylvan Lake.  The beautiful scenes looking across the lake from here were unchanged.

Lupe at Sylvan Lake for the first time. The rock formation seen beyond this part of the frozen lake is near the dam. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had made it to Sylvan Lake, but winter days are short.  The sun was already getting low.  Going back the way Lupe had come was not a good idea.  Too many parts of the trail had been hidden under deadfall timber.  Losing the trail on a winter night was not an option.  Although it was 6 miles back to the G6 taking Hwy 87 and Palmer Creek Road, that was the only smart choice.

Lupe and SPHP left the rock formation and went down to the beach, intending to go around the S end of the lake to get to Hwy 87.  However, the ice on Sylvan Lake looked thick.  Lupe could just walk across to the W side of the lake!  Why not?

The ice was full of cracks and fissures as Lupe started out, but felt solid.  Lupe went W staying close to the granite formation she had been up on moments ago.  She could see people out on the ice near the opposite shore.

Coming around a corner near the rocks, SPHP was surprised to see open water at the edge of the rock formation 30 feet ahead!  The sight of open water was unexpected and worrisome, but the ice was still very thick and firm where Lupe was.  The Carolina Dog continued across the lake, but swung wide to the S around the small patch of open water.

Lupe reached the W shore of Sylvan Lake without incident.

After crossing frozen Sylvan Lake, Lupe reaches the W shore. Photo looks N.

With the sun sinking fast, people were heading for their cars to go home.  Lupe went N on the trail along the W shore of the lake.

Lupe on the trail on the W shore of Sylvan Lake. Photo looks N.

At the NW end of Sylvan Lake near the dam, the trail passes through a narrow gap between huge vertical rock formations.  The gap is almost like a tunnel.  Large boulders can be seen wedged into the top of the gap above.  Lupe went through the gap.

On the other side, Lupe could have gone down beneath the dam that forms Sylvan Lake, but she needed to get to the highway.  She took a trail W, passing below more large granite formations.

Walls of granite like this one are typical of the Sylvan Lake area.

SPHP thought Lupe might take the Sunday Gulch trail part of the way back, but missed the turn for it.  Lupe arrived at Hwy 87 close Sylvan Lake Lodge.

The sun was still up as the American Dingo trotted N on Hwy 87, but she was in the shade of Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) all the way.  The highway wound its way steadily down the mountain.  Lupe passed through a short granite tunnel.  Now and then cars or pickup trucks went by.  The temperature was dropping, but Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the trek in the cool mountain air.

While still high up, Lupe saw deer.  A few miles later, down in the valley, she saw horses.  They kept the journey interesting.  When the Carolina Dog reached the turn onto gravel Palmer Creek Road, she took it.  Now there was no traffic.  The final glow of sunset faded.  Lupe passed the access road to the Palmer Creek trailhead.

Stars glittered above in the black night sky by the time Lupe reached Hwy 244.  The turn for the Willow Creek Horse Camp wasn’t far now.  Before long, a tired, but happy Carolina Dog arrived at the G6 (5:57 PM, 34°F).

Expedition No. 74 was over.  Lupe’d had a wonderful time sniffing and exploring new places she’d never been to before.  She’d made it all the way to Sylvan Lake, and even walked across the frozen lake.  It felt great to be back in action, especially knowing that this was only a start to the many fantastic adventures she would have in 2014!

The final glow of sunset faded away as Lupe traveled Palmer Creek Road.

Willow Creek Horse Camp where Willow Creek Trail No. 8 originates is located off Hwy 224 about 5 miles W of Mount Rushmore, and 3 miles W of Horsethief Lake.  The turn is on the S side of the highway a little E of the Palmer Gulch KOA.

The Palmer Creek trailhead where the spur to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 originates is located off Palmer Creek Road, which can be approached from Hwy 244 a little W of the Palmer Gulch KOA, or Hwy 87 about 3 or 4 miles N of Sylvan Lake.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 225 – Roundtop Hill (4-9-18)

Start – Cascade Springs picnic ground at J. H. Keith Memorial Park along Hwy 71, 10:02 AM, 34°F

Blue sky!  A welcome sight!  This day was going to be fine after all.

Good thing, too.  It had been a while, and Lupe was anxious to get back out in the hills.  The forecast was for the first near normal temperature day since March, a vast improvement over April’s chilly start.  However, on the way here SPHP had begun to wonder.  The sky had been so darkly overcast and the clouds so low, that SPHP had driven through stretches of fog with the headlights on.  The temperature had sunk to a pathetic 14°F.  Mighty brisk for nearly a third of the way into April!

It was 20°F warmer here at the Cascade Springs picnic ground, though.  Not a particularly bright day, but Looper was at least going to get some sunshine.  She was eager to get going, and was soon happily sniffing her way along Hwy 71.

Loop left Hwy 71 at USFS Road No. 328.  The dirt road followed Cascade Creek SW for 0.33 mile before turning N to climb out of the creek valley.  The road brought the Carolina Dog up onto the low end of a long ridge.  Devil’s Slide Mountain (3,965 ft.) was in view to the SE.

Near Cascade Creek. Photo looks S.
Devil’s Slide Mountain (L) from the start of the ridge. Photo looks SE.

Once up on the toe of the ridge, USFS Road No. 328 turned NW following the ridge higher.  Lupe was gaining elevation steadily at an easy pace.  The broad ridge was mostly grassland, but pine trees were never far away.  The views back to the S kept improving as Looper went higher.

The views were gradually improving as Lupe followed the ridge higher. Photo looks S.

Loopster was excited to see a small herd of deer.  The deer noticed the Carolina Dog, too, but weren’t as thrilled to see Lupe as she was to see them.  After a moment’s hesitation, they retreated to a nearby forest.

Lupe was excited to see this small herd of deer. When the deer saw Lupe, they decided to head for a nearby stand of pines.

This was dry country at the far S end of the Black Hills.  SPHP could see cactus hidden among the grass.  The cacti weren’t super abundant, but were definitely a clear and present danger for Lupe.  Loop must have sensed that cactus was around.  Without any prompting from SPHP, she played it safe and stayed right on the road.

After the deer, Lupe didn’t see much else of interest until she had been on the ridge for nearly 0.75 mile.  Here she passed between a couple of low hills, and came to a tiny reedy pond.  The pond didn’t have much open water at all, but frogs were singing merrily.  When Loop got close, they suddenly went silent.

After following the ridge nearly 0.75 mile, Lupe came to this reedy pond where frogs were singing. Photo looks NW.
The pond didn’t have much open water, but the frogs seemed happy enough with it. Photo looks S.

Lupe kept going.  0.25 mile beyond the frog pond, the ridge narrowed down substantially.  This area was forested, but didn’t extend far.  Soon Lupe was emerging from the trees again.  Ahead the road went up a very broad grassy slope.

When Loop was nearly 2 miles past the frog pond, the road crested.  Past this point, No. 328 dipped slightly and bent N.  From the crest, Lupe could see Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.) 3 miles to the NW.  She had been to Horse Trap Mountain once, more than a year ago.

Why, SPHP, look! There’s Horse Trap Mountain (R) up ahead. Remember being there? …. Sure do, Looper! It was a pretty cool spot. Photo looks NW.

Returning to Horse Trap Mountain was tempting, but not the plan.  Lupe’s actual peakbagging objective was in sight from here.  From the little crest, the road curved N toward Roundtop Hill (4,469 ft.).

Mighty Roundtop Hill (R of Center) was today’s peakbagging objective. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP had first seen Roundtop Hill from Horse Trap Mountain on Expedition No. 197.  However, there hadn’t been time enough to get over to Roundtop then.  Loopster was going to get there today, though!

Before continuing on to Roundtop Hill, Lupe and SPHP took a break at a stand of pines W of the crest in the road.  Along the SW edge of these trees was a grouping of yucca plants.  The yuccas looked pretty snazzy, so Lupe thought she might like a photo.  SPHP helped her watch out for the plentiful cacti growing nearby.

Lupe by the snazzy yucca plants W of the crest in the road. Photo looks SSW.

Roundtop Hill was still 1.5 miles away as the crow flies.  After a short break, Lupe and SPHP hit the road again.

Ready to hit the road again for Roundtop Hill (R). Photo looks N.
Roundtop Hill with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

USFS Road No. 328 headed straight for Roundtop Hill until it got close.  Then it swung around the W side of the hill.  Instead of going directly to the summit, or at least the saddle W of it, Lupe stuck with the road.  As she approached the W end of Roundtop Hill, the Carolina Dog had some nice views of Falls Canyon.

Nearing the W end of Roundtop Hill, Lupe could see Falls Canyon. Photo looks SSW.
Looking WSW across an E branch of Falls Canyon.

Circling the W end of Roundtop Hill the road became steeper.  By the time Lupe was around to the N side, she had already gained almost all of the elevation she needed to in order to reach her objective.

The summit of Roundtop Hill was now 0.5 mile ESE.  Leaving the road, Lupe approached a deadfall strewn slope beyond a power line.  The trees had all died in a wildfire a long time ago.  Only one dead tree was still standing.  A Devil Tree stood slightly below the top of the slope.  Lupe headed for it.

Lupe reaches the Devil Tree at the WNW end of Roundtop Hill. Photo looks ESE.

Past the Devil Tree, Lupe came upon a surprisingly flat grassy area.  She could now see the summit of Roundtop Hill ahead.  Getting there looked easy.  As it turned out, there was virtually no cactus up here, either, which made the trek to the summit ridge both simple and fun.

Oh, we’re almost there, SPHP! Roundtop Hill (L) is in the bag! Photo looks ESE.
Loopster nearing the summit ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Roundtop Hill’s summit ridge runs NW/SE, and is hundreds of feet long.  It’s quite narrow at the NW end where big boulders of pockmarked sandstone are prominent, and much wider toward the lower SE end.  Lupe started her quest for the true summit by climbing up among the boulders at the NW end.

It’s kind of interesting up here, SPHP. Come on up and see for yourself! Lupe at the NW end of Roundtop Hill’s summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

The top of Roundtop Hill used to be forested.  However, a fire had killed every living tree.  When Lupe reached the summit ridge, the bleached white trunks and branches of the small trees that used to live up here were scattered all over among the rocks.  The jumble of dead wood made moving around more difficult than it should have been.

The true summit of Roundtop Hill (4,469 ft.) was a large flat boulder 40 feet from the big rocks at the NW end.  A couple of other rocks along the SW edge were also in contention for the title.  Lupe ultimately visited all of the highest rocks.

Lupe at the true summit of Roundtop Hill. A couple of other rocks nearly as high are seen to the R. Photo looks S.
On a perfect Dingo display rock along the SW edge of the summit area. Photo looks W.

A chilly 20 mph NW breeze was blowing.  The temperature couldn’t have been much more than the mid 40’s °F.  After tagging the true summit, Lupe and SPHP went to the lower SE end of the summit area.  This area was protected from the wind, so it was a good place to take a break.

Pockmarked sandstone was plentiful.  Standing water filled many of the holes in the rocks.  Lupe and SPHP took a break at Lake Rock.  Loopster enjoyed drinking freely from the tiny lakes.  SPHP supplied her with Taste of the Wild.

Loopster at Lake Rock. She took a break here, sampling the water from several of the lakes. Photo looks WNW.
What a great spot! Help yourself SPHP! There’s plenty of water to go around.

The best views from Roundtop Hill were generally toward the S.  Lupe could see a number of peaks she had been to before.

This was one of the best views from Roundtop Hill. Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) is at Center far beyond Lupe. Photo looks SE.
Three peaks Lupe had been to before are lined up in the distance. The ridge L of Center is Seven Sisters Range (4,420 ft.). At Center above Loop’s rump is Peak 4371. Straight up from her head is Peak 4310. Photo looks E.
The long ridge beyond Lupe is Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.). The smaller ridge in the distance at far R is Parker Peak (4,848 ft.). Photo looks WNW.

It would have been fun to go back to Horse Trap Mountain, but a check of the maps showed that it was probably best to just stay here and enjoy Roundtop Hill.  Getting past Falls Canyon would take too much time.  So Loop and SPHP lingered up on Roundtop Hill for well over an hour just chillin’ and enjoying the views.

Looking N along the summit area. The dead trees were kind of a mess.
Looper at one of the highest rocks along the SW edge. She could see a long way from here! That had to be Nebraska on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.
Same spot with help from the telephoto lens. On the way to the Roundtop Hill area, Loop had come up from the L along the grassy slope beyond her. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe’s final approach to Roundtop Hill’s summit ridge had been from this direction. Horse Trap Mountain is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NW.
Among the big boulders at the NW end of the summit area. Photo looks WNW.
Up on one of the more dramatic rocks. Photo looks SE.
This was kind of a cool rock formation, too. On her way back to the G6, Lupe would go to the pines (L) seen beyond her, then on to the Devil Tree, which is out of sight over the near ridge a little to Lupe’s R. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe and SPHP wandered slowly along the SW edge of Roundtop Hill gazing at the views.  When Loop reached the last big boulder up at the NW end, it was time for a final dramatic Dingo pose.

Lupe at the last big boulder at the NW end of the summit. Photo looks SSE.
View to the N before the final descent.

On the way back to the G6, Lupe simply retraced her original route to Roundtop Hill.  She returned to USFS Road No. 328 near the Devil Tree, then just followed the road back.  Getting back to the Cascade Springs picnic ground was close to a 5 mile trek, but it was a pleasant, easy stroll.  Lupe had gained nearly 1,100 feet of elevation on the way to Roundtop Hill.  She now had gravity on her side.

Roundtop Hill had been fun!  The views had been impressive for no higher than it was, and this far S end of the Black Hills is an area Lupe had only explored occasionally before.  Now she’d seen another piece of the puzzle.

Roundtop Hill worked out pretty well, didn’t it, SPHP? When I first saw how little it was, it didn’t seem like much, but we could see clear to Nebraska! Photo looks SE.

Plenty of daylight remained when the American Dingo reached the G6.  (4:20 PM, 57°F)  Cascade Falls, one of her favorite places in this part of the Black Hills was only a few miles from here.  So SPHP drove Loop to Cascade Falls for a little while to sniff around and see the clear water tumble into the swimming hole.  No one else was around.

A quick visit to Cascade Falls was an end of the day treat.

In an over-crowded world, that just made it seem that much better.

On Roundtop Hill, Black Hills of South Dakota, 4-9-18

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