Winchester Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington (8-16-21)

Days 7 – 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-12-21, 6:45 AM, 59ºF, NE Washington – Bluer skies!  Perhaps a shame Lupe had climbed Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) yesterday?

Eh, maybe not.  By the time the RAV4 made it out of the forest and back to Hwy 9435, it was apparent that there was still a lot of smoke around.

Not looking very good, SPHP!  What are we going to do?

We’ll just stick with the plan, Looper.  Keep driving W until we either find blue skies again, or run out of continent.

Running out of continent seemed a distinct possibility.  From Colville, SPHP drove W on Hwy 20.  Hour after hour went by.  Lupe barked at cows and horses whenever she could, but didn’t see many, and wound up snoozing in air-conditioned comfort much of the day.  Should have been a beautiful drive, but smoke was everywhere, marring the views.

In fact, the drive W only seemed to make matters worse.  Approaching Washington Pass in the N Cascades, fabulous towering peaks were in all directions.  All a hazy blur, though.  SPHP didn’t even bother to stop at a pullout.  W of the Cascades, Lupe actually was running out of continent.  A scorching 97ºF, and smoky, even here.  Unfathomable!

What to do?  After fueling up in Burlington, the day ended with a drive N on I-5 to Bellingham, then E on Hwy 542 back up into the Cascades until a L turn onto USFS Road No. 3065 to Twin Lakes appeared.  Driving up to the Yellow Aster trailhead, SPHP didn’t like the looks of it.  1.5 miles back down No. 3065, a hidden side road dead-ended at a flat spot overlooking Swamp Creek.

Only 70ºF here.  So much better!  Lupe was set for the night.

8-13-21, 7:51 AM, 55ºF, Swamp Creek – Humid, yet smoky.  Definitely worse this morning, but maybe conditions were better higher up, or would improve by the time Lupe could get to Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)?  After spending nearly the entire day in the RAV4 yesterday, the American Dingo was at least going to give it a shot.

Leaving the Swamp Creek camp behind, Lupe trotted along the narrow lane leading back to USFS Road No. 3065.  Upon reaching it, she turned R heading NW for Twin Lakes.

End of the lane campsite near Swamp Creek.
On the lane leading back to USFS Road No. 3065.
Twin Lakes Road (USFS Road No. 3065).

A miles long, uphill road hike past Yellow Aster trailhead to Twin Lakes was in store, but the Carolina Dog was happy just being on the move.  Progress was good.  After passing a mile 3 marker, the road leveled out and widened at a small clearing.  On the R was a line of beehive boxes, where plenty of activity was in sight.

Allergic to insect stings, SPHP stayed way over on the L, hoping to slip by without incident.  However, a single bee came flying over, unhappy with the intrusion.  Lupe watched as SPHP repeatedly batted the bee away with a pole.  Increasingly angry, the dang insect kept coming back for more.  A particularly good thwack finally dazed the bee long enough to get past the beehives.

Fortunately, none of the bee’s comrades had felt threatened enough to join in the attack.

Near the dangerous beehives.

Beyond the beehives, Twin Lakes Road resumed its climb.  An amazingly dense forest with thick underbrush lined both sides.  Bushwhacking would be a near impossibility in a steep jungle like this!  Fortunately, no need for that.  Lupe passed several rushing streams that went through culverts.  A view finally opened up where it was possible to see across the valley.  The smoke was discouragingly thick.

Loop was getting close to the Yellow Aster trailhead when she came to a stream that trickled right over the road.  Two Honda Elements appeared on their way down the mountain.  The first one stopped.  A young couple inside said they’d just spent the night up at Twin Lakes.  The smoke was terrible up there now, so bad that it stung the eyes.  Completely ruined their plans, so they were heading home.  And with that cheery tidbit, both Elements were on their way.

Well, fiddlesticks, Loopster!

This is a fail, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah.  No doubt about it now.  Worst part of it was that SPHP had to run the beehive gauntlet again.  Sure enough, that same lone deranged bee launched another attack.  Insect brain must have had quite a headache by the time Lupe managed to get by again.

8-13-21, 9:13 AM, Swamp Creek – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

So, what’s the plan?  Where to now, SPHP?

Why bless you, Looper, for thinking that I even have a plan.  About the only thing I can think of is to keep going W.  Maybe out on the Olympic Peninsula skies are blue?  Last bit of continent we have left before total, abject defeat.

Heading W out of the mountains on Hwy 542, SPHP saw a ranger station near Glacier, and stopped to buy a Northwest Forest Annual Pass.  $30.  What a deal!  S of Everett, I-5 was stop and go traffic.  Seattle was a 100°F nightmare, creeping along for hours on end.  Once again, the RAV4’s AC got a workout.  Fortunately, it was up to the task.

Took all day to get around to the S end of the Olympic Peninsula, but at least the air quality was much better.  As night came on, SPHP finally parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along some unmarked USFS Road a few miles N of Wynoochee Lake.

8-14-21 – Like dominoes, one fiasco led to the next.  The plan for the day was to climb Discovery Peak (4,837 ft.).  Not smoky here, but on USFS Road No. 2270 on the way to the trailhead, it became clear that there was a new problem.  The high country was all lost in the clouds.  Not going to see a thing, even if Lupe could manage to climb the mountain.

The American Dingo did get to see a waterfall alongside the road before SPHP gave up and turned the RAV4 around.

The consolation waterfall along USFS Road No. 2270.

On the way out, Loopster might as well have a look at Wynoochee Lake while she was in the area, too.  Due to drought, the lake was low, but it was still in a lovely setting.

Wynoochee Lake.

Since the mountains were clouded over, maybe Lupe could stop at a beach along the Pacific Ocean?  Sounded like fun.  Saturday, though.  Driving N on Hwy 101 all the beaches were packed.  Nowhere to park.  Brief glimpses of the ocean flashed by between the trees.

Aren’t you even going to stop, SPHP?  The Pacific Ocean is right there!  We’re missing it!

Naw.  Too crowded.  Let’s try for Cape Alava, instead!  It’s on the West Coast way up near the N end of the Olympic Peninsula.  Westernmost point of the 48 contiguous US states!  An easy 3 mile boardwalk trail through the rain forest from Ozette Lake will get us to the Pacific, where we can stroll another mile N along a scenic rocky beach to Tskawahyah Island.  Surely, it won’t be so busy.  How does that sound, Loop?

Sounded great, but Ozette Lake was a long winding drive.  At Sekiu, Lupe just had to stop to get up onto a brightly painted rock, and take a look at Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

On the dazzling painted rock of Sekiu.
Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Photo looks NNE.

Just think, SPHP!  Canada, right over there!

Yep.  Tantalizingly close, Loopster, but still the forbidden land.

8-14-21, 4:16 PM, Ozette Lake, Olympic Peninsula –  Finally, some action!  Expectantly, Lupe stood on the bridge leading to the Cape Alava trail, waiting for SPHP.  Parking hadn’t been a problem, but only because the parking lot was huge.  Must have been more than 100 vehicles present.

Ready for Cape Alava!

Sorry, Loopster, but Cape Alava is out.  We can’t go.

What?  After coming all this way!  Why not, SPHP?

I didn’t even think about this being part of Olympic National Park, Loop.  No Dingoes allowed!

With No Dingo signs everywhere, tons of people around, and a ranger station right at the trailhead, this just wasn’t going to work.  Doomed!

The counter-clockwise journey around the Olympic Peninsula resumed.  A brief stop at the Pillar Point Recreation Area along the Strait of Juan de Fuca was small consolation for the Cape Alava fail, but Lupe did enjoy the rare ocean sniffing.

Pillar Point (Center) along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Photo looks NNW.

8-14-21, 8:40 PM, Port Townsend – Too late!  Last ferry to Whidbey Island left 10 minutes ago.  Par for the course!  The entire venture around the Olympic Peninsula had been a colossal waste of time and fuel.  Lupe had seen a gazillon trees, but hadn’t climbed any peaks, and had spent hardly any time at the ocean.

Drive clear back through Seattle in the night when the traffic wouldn’t be so bad, or stay here and wait for morning?

Lupe waited.

8-15-21 – Waiting was the right call.  Sunday morning!  Plenty of room on the 6:30 AM ferry.  Cool, and very foggy, so there was absolutely nothing to see, even if Lupe had left the RAV4.

On the ferry.

The Carolina Dog arrived at Whidbey Island without having to endure another long drive through Tacoma and Seattle.  Sunny with clear blue skies by the time she reached Bellingham!  Loopster spent a pleasant morning at Whatcom Falls Park and Whatcom Lake.  In the afternoon, she had to wait in the RAV4 while SPHP dined with Erik, Ana, and their friend, Erin, on the veranda at Anthony’s.

8-16-21, 8:17 AM, 62ºF, Swamp Creek – Lupe was back!  Raining, but only lightly.  At least there wasn’t any smoke.

Well, wha’dya think, Loopster?  Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)?  Might get skunked again.

All excited, the were-puppy attacked!

Ack!  Stop!  I’ll take that as a yes.  Onward!  Puppy ho!

This time, no bee dared come out to harass SPHP as Lupe trotted on past the beehives.  The miles long road trek up the side of the Swamp Creek valley wasn’t all that exciting, but eventually there was a great view of Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) back to the SW.

Passing the Tomyhoi/Yellow Aster trailhead. Photo looks NW.
Mount Baker (L) from Twin Lakes Road. Photo looks SW.
Mount Baker with help from the telephoto lens.

The rain had ended well before Mount Baker came into sight, giving rise to hopes that maybe the clouds would dissipate.  However, the situation didn’t change much as Loopster wound her way up 5 long switchbacks.  Meanwhile, across the valley, views of Goat Mountain (6,840 ft.) were steadily improving.

Goat Mountain E (Center) and W (R) summits from the switchbacks. Photo looks S.
Wildflowers along Twin Lakes Road.

At the upper end of the last switchback, the road finally leveled out and curved NE as Lupe reached the Twin Lakes trailhead.  The first lake and Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) were now in sight.

Winchester Mountain (Center). Photo looks N.
Near the SW Twin Lake. Photo looks NNE.

The road led over to the area between the Twin Lakes.  Several vehicles and tents were there.  Before passing between the lakes, Lupe climbed a knoll with a view of both lakes and Winchester Mountain beyond them.

Heading over to the area between the lakes. Photo looks NE.
Winchester Mountain (Center) from the knoll. Photo looks NW.
The NE Twin Lake. Pocket Peak (7,056 ft.) (R). Photo looks NE.

After coming down off the knob and passing between the lakes, Lupe reached the start of the Winchester Mountain and High Pass trails.  SPHP paused for a look at the posted map and trail information.

At the actual trailhead.

Seemed simple enough.  Stay to the L where High Pass trail No. 676 splits off, then follow Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 to the lookout at the summit.  Without further ado, Looper was on her way.

Setting out from Twin Lakes. Photo looks S.

Didn’t take long at all to reach a marker at the junction with High Pass trail No. 676.  Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 continued to the L, winding steadily up the mountain’s SE slope.

Marker at the Winchester Mountain and High Pass trails junction.

The easy to only moderately steep trail was in great shape.  Early views included Pocket Peak (7,056 ft.) and Big Bosom Buttes (6,521 ft.) to the E, plus the W summit of Goat Mountain (6,725 ft.) and Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) to the S.

Goat Mountain’s W Peak (L). Photo looks SSW.
Pocket Peak (L) and Big Bosom Buttes (Center & R), along with the NE Twin Lake (R). Photo looks ENE.
Winchester Mountain (R). Photo looks NW.
Mount Baker (L). Photo looks SW.
Mount Baker with help from the telephoto lens.

Blueberries caused some delays.  Absolutely delicious, and the views were better at each stop!  Bear Peak (6,480 ft.) came into sight beyond the Twin Lakes.  Soon Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.) could be seen between Goat Mountain’s E and W summits.

Big Bosom Buttes (L). Mount Chardonnay and NE Twin Lake (R). Photo looks ESE.
Bear Peak (Center). E & W summits of Goat Mountain (R) with Mount Shuksan in the distance between them. Photo looks S.

Well up on the SE slopes of Winchester Mountain, Trail No. 685 leveled out and turned SW toward a pass next to a big knob of rock along the S ridge.  The only stretch of trail that required any caution was just ahead, a narrow, sloping band of tan rock that led up to the pass.

Trail No. 685 levels out high on Winchester Mountain’s SE slope. Photo looks W.
Approaching the pass (Center) on the S ridge. Photo looks SW.
On the tan rock band, just below the pass.

The tan rock band wasn’t as daunting as it appeared from a distance.  Once up at the pass, the trail curved sharply NW.  A whole new vista was ahead, the rocky shoulder of Winchester Mountain’s SW ridge.  Before continuing on, Lupe paused for a last look down on Twin Lakes.

SPHP was also keeping an eye on Mount Baker, because it seemed to be getting cloudier now.  Unfortunately, the magnificent, glacier-clad peak might not be visible by the time the American Dingo managed to get to Winchester Mountain’s summit.

Twin Lakes from the S pass. Bear Peak (R of Center). E summit of Goat Mountain (far R). Photo looks SE.
Another glance at Mount Baker as more clouds seem to be moving in. Photo looks SW.
Winchester Mountain’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.

The trail headed toward another pass leading to the SW ridge, but did not go all the way to it, instead switchbacking steadily up Winchester’s SW slope.  Once high enough, Lupe could see Tomyhoi Peak (7,435 ft.) and Mount McGuire (6,588 ft.) beyond the gap.

Higher yet, a dramatic display of American Border Peak (7,994 ft.), plus Mount Larrabee (7,861 ft.) and The Pleiades (7,520 ft.) came into view.

Approaching the W pass (R) to Winchester’s SW ridge (L). The trail did not go all the way to it. Photo looks NNW.
Tomyhoi Peak (Center), Mount McGuire (R). Photo looks NNW.
American Border Peak (L), Mount Larrabee (L of Center), and The Pleiades (R). Photo looks N.

The switchbacks grew shorter and shorter, as Trail No. 685 snaked higher.  Couldn’t be much farther!  Suddenly, a gray building appeared.  The lookout!  Lupe had arrived!

Almost there! Mount Larrabee (L). Winchester summit (R). Photo looks NNE.
By the Winchester Mountain lookout. Photo looks W.

8-16-21, 12:06 PM, 53ºF, Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) – A little tan knob of rock a few feet N of the lookout was Winchester Mountain’s true summit.  Claiming her peakbagging success, Lupe visited it briefly, but that wasn’t where the action was.  The big, splendid view was to the N from rock outcroppings ENE of the lookout – Mount Larrabee flanked by the dramatic spire of American Border Peak and rugged Pleiades.

Success! On the true summit. Photo looks NW.
The lookout from the rock outcroppings with the big views. Photo looks WSW.
Canadian Border Peak (7,470 ft.) (far L), American Border Peak (L), and Mount Larrabee (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Too bad it was such a gray day!  Winchester Mountain offered a lot of scenic splendor for a summit with such an easy trail all the way to the top.  A vast sea of glamourous peaks extended in all directions.

No complaints!  At least there wasn’t any smoke for once, and Lupe could see what was out there.  Glancing over at Mount Baker gradually being enveloped in clouds, it was apparent that the Carolina Dog might have reached the top of Winchester Mountain with little time to spare.

I know you’ve earned a chocolate coconut bar and some Taste of the Wild, Looper, but we better get a few photos while we still can!

Final look at Mount Baker (Center) in the midst of its disappearing act. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Mount Baker. Zoomed in even more. Photo looks SW.
Mount Shuksan (Center) between the Goat Mountain peaks. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Tomyhoi Peak (L) and Mount McGuire (R). Tomyhoi Lake below. Photo looks NW.

So many magnificent mountains!  SPHP knew the names of only a few.  Happily, a man who had been relaxing in the lookout eventually came out and was able to identify Mount Redoubt (8,969 ft.), which was nearly beyond vision on the far E horizon.

To the SE, snowy Ruth Mountain (7,115 ft.) was lined up directly behind Bear Peak, with Mount Chardonnay (7,020 ft.) closer and farther E.

The Pleiades (L), with countless other inspiring peaks in sight SPHP didn’t recognize. Photo looks NE.
Big Bosom Buttes (Center) in the foreground with Mount Redoubt (L of Center) on the horizon framed between them. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Mount Chardonnay (L of Center), Bear Peak (R) with Ruth Mountain (R) beyond. Photo looks SE.

After introductions, SPHP asked Matt Westerheide, if a registry was in the lookout?  Matt said that there was.  So, Lupe got to go inside.  On a small table sat the largest, most elaborate old registry SPHP had ever seen.  Loopster’s name got added, of course!

Matt was very friendly, and happy to meet Lupe and chat with SPHP.  As it turned out, Matt was living the dream!  Since 2018, he had been living out of his van while traveling to many beautiful places between gigs as a contract nurse.  He was a big time skier and kayaker, who did a little mountain climbing, too.  Tonight he intended to stay up here in the Winchester Mountain lookout.

Matt was an incredibly interesting guy.  Upon learning that Lupe hoped to visit Oregon on this Dingo Vacation, he recommended the Trail of Ten Falls in Silver Falls State Park an hour from Portland, and Thor’s Well along the Oregon coast.

With a new friend, adventurer Matt Westerheide, in the snug lookout.
Matt and Lupe.

8-16-21, 3:16 PM, Winchester Mountain – After a long, most entertaining conversation, Lupe and SPHP left Matt to enjoy his stay at the lookout.  Once again, the Carolina Dog stood on the rock outcropping with that splendid view of Mount Larrabee and American Boundary Peak.

Nothing remained.  A cold, damp, gray fog had settled over Winchester Mountain.

Back at the viewpoint.

Well, at least Lupe had arrived in time to see the world earlier on from this beautiful place.  If the weather cleared, she’d get to visit another one tomorrow, a special spot not too far away that was already on her list.  Matt had been there yesterday, and highly recommended it.

Staring briefly into the fog, SPHP sighed, then followed Lupe back down lovely Winchester Mountain.  (End 8-16-21, 6:16 PM, 59ºF, light rain)

On Winchester Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington 8-16-21

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Abercrombie Mountain, Selkirk Mountains, Washington (8-11-21)

Day 6 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

9:42 AM, Hwy 508, far NW Montana

Hey, Loop!  Yaak Falls is coming up!  Any interest in sniffing the air, and having a peek at it?

Sure, SPHP!  Let’s do it!

And why not?  This was probably going to be just a rest and positioning day, anyway.  Bit of a drive to Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) in NE Washington from here.  With the sky looking as smoky as it was this morning, didn’t look like Lupe needed to be in any big rush to get there.

Yaak Falls was practically right along the highway.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout, and Lupe sniffed her way over to the river for a look at the falls.  Drought conditions appeared to have the Yaak River running very low, even for August.

The Yaak River on a smoky August morning. Photo looks N.
Yaak Falls.
A better angle.

Very nice, SPHP!   Bet Yaak Falls is a lot more impressive in the spring, though.

Heh.  Doesn’t seem to be much doubt about that, does there?  Probably many times the flow we see here today.

Yaak Falls was the last stop in Montana.  The American Dingo was soon cruising in air-conditioned comfort through the Idaho panhandle.  An otherwise scenic drive was marred by the discouraging amount of smoke in the air.  Loopster might have to skip Abercrombie Mountain entirely.

The drive W was mighty inefficient, since the highways kept making big swings N and S.  By the time Lupe was in NE Washington, she was ready for another waterfall.  SPHP stopped at Crystal Falls on the Little Pend Oreille River, but only a rather restricted view of it was available.

Crystal Falls.

Entering Colville from the E on Hwy 20, SPHP spotted Aladdin Road on the R.  That was the way to the W approach to Abercrombie Mountain, which was still many miles NNE.  A quick stop for supplies in Colville, and Lupe was on her way!  Road construction close to town caused a few delays, but eventually the RAV4 was bouncing along USFS Road No. 300, which was soft, and a bit rough, after having been recently churned up while graded.

Glad we’ve got the RAV4, Loop!  Not sure the trusty old G6 would have made it!

Oh, ye of little faith!  Don’t be dissing the G6 now, SPHP!  Got us to the Arctic Ocean twice, and Alaska 4 times!  The G6 could have done this.

Come on, Looper!  You know I would never disparage the G6!  Even so, a little better clearance sure improves confidence.

Still quite narrow, but No. 300 had improved a great deal by the time a very encouraging sign appeared.  Abercrombie trailhead!  Right around the next bend, No. 300 dead-ended at a small, vacant parking area.

Hah!  Made it!  You’re golden now, Loopster!

The sign of success!
Parked at the Abercrombie trailhead.

3:48 PM, 79ºF, Abercrombie trailhead –  Plenty warm out, but definitely cooler up here at the trailhead than it had been during the drive through Idaho into Washington.  Overhead, despite some smoky haziness, the cloudless sky looked surprisingly blue.

What do you think, Looper?  I’d been expecting on the way over that it was going to be too smoky to climb Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) today, and that we’d just have to hope for the best in the morning.  Really doesn’t look all that bad right now, though.  Want to try it?

Do we have time, SPHP?  How far is it?

Less than 4 miles one way, I believe. Under 2,400 feet of elevation gain, with what’s supposed to be a decent trail all the way.

Shoot, we can do that, SPHP!  Why wait and take a chance on what the smoke will be like tomorrow?  Should cool off some more as the sun sinks, too.  Might be a pretty pleasant evening on Abercrombie Mountain!

For better or worse, Abercrombie Mountain was a go!  A wooden box next to the start of Trail No. 117 contained registration forms, but they were all old and already used.

Guess we can skip this step, Loop.  Doesn’t look like anyone cares.

American Dingoes don’t care for paperwork, that was for sure.  Not their strong suit, nor SPHP’s for that matter, either.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Start of Trail No. 117 to Abercrombie Mountain.

Trail No. 117 was good – smooth and easy to follow, with few rocks or roots.  Lupe trotted gradually higher on a series of long switchbacks that snaked through a jungley forest full of ferns and big-leafed plants.  10 minutes from the trailhead, she got a drink from a small stream.

On the easy path higher.
Crossing the shallow stream.

This same stream crossed the trail a couple more times higher up.  Last time Loop came to it, the stream was reduced to a mere mossy trickle.  The switchbacks went on and on, steepening and getting tighter as they worked up the side of a big ridge.  Nothing to see, really.  Dense forest hid whatever views there might have been.

Amid the ferny jungle.
By the mossy remnant of the stream.

Definitely a tougher climb toward the end, but Trail No. 117 never did get all that steep before finally starting to level out up on the big ridge.  Lupe had gained more than 800 feet of elevation by now, at least a third of what she needed to do.  No ferns or big-leafed plants up here, but the forest was otherwise unchanged.

Heading S across the ridge at a saddle just E of HP5985, Loop came to a 3-way intersection.  An old sign was only partially legible.  Trail No. 119 came up from the North Fork of Silver Creek here, a starting point to the SW nearly 2,000 feet lower than the Abercrombie trailhead.

At the junction with Trail No. 119. Photo looks S.

How about a short break, Looper?  Want to split a chocolate coconut bar?

Panting while laying in the shade, the Carolina Dog showed no interest in the chocolate coconut bar.  SPHP ate the whole thing.  How often did that happen?

Are you OK, Loop?  You aren’t getting sick, are you?

I’m fine.  Just hot, that’s all, SPHP.

Well, here.  Have some water, then.

Sticking with Trail No. 117, Lupe left the junction going ENE.  A mere 50 feet brought her to a tree bearing a marker.

By the tree with the trail marker. Photo looks ENE.

Hey!  Guess what, Loop?  This is a PNT marker!

We’re on the Pacific Northwest Trail again, SPHP?  We could have taken the PNT all the way from Northwest Peak to Abercrombie Mountain?

Heh.  Yeah, if we weren’t interested in doing much of anything else on this Dingo Vacation.  Probably could have been here by September!

The trail was almost flat.  Lupe gained only a little elevation as it curved around the N side of a minor hill along the ridgeline.  Once beyond the hill, No. 117 swung S, dipping 20 feet down into a ravine before starting up again.

Heading down into the ravine. Photo looks S.

Climbing steadily now, No. 117 began switchbacking higher with long runs SE interrupted by shorter ones N.  Soon the trail seemed sunnier.

The forest is thinning out, SPHP!  Maybe we’re finally going to get to see something?

Getting sunnier as the trail climbs more steeply. Photo looks SSE.

Sure enough!  At the end of one of the first long runs SE, Lupe reached a meadow.  There was a big view to the S.

Not good.

A lot smokier now. Photo looks S.

Gone were the blue skies that had prevailed when the American Dingo set out from the trailhead.  A smokey haze, brought in by a breeze that had sprung up, filled the air.  Still sort of blue to the E, but the air quality was much worse, an opaque white, off to the W where the breeze was coming from.

Criminitly, Loop!  We better pick up the pace, or we aren’t going to be able to see a thing from Abercrombie Mountain!

Trail No. 117 turned N back into the forest.  More switchbacks.  Same pattern.  Long runs SE interspersed with shorter ones N.  The hillside steepened, but the trail wasn’t bad at all.  The forest continued to thin.  All views told the same story.  Better keep at it, if Lupe hoped to have any possibility of a view from the top.

Heading SE.
Going N.

The switchbacks ended shortly before reaching Abercrombie Mountain’s S ridge.  The broad, rounded ridge sported only scattered stands of live forest.  Gnarled skeleton trees, bleached white by the sun, stood forlorn and alone whispering of days long past, dead companions collapsed here and there about them.

Too late!  Air quality was getting worse.  Blasted breeze!  Why couldn’t it have held off for an hour or two?  Would have made all the difference.

Finally up on the S ridge. HP6631 (R). Photo looks S.

0.5 mile away and 600 feet higher, the summit was now visible almost due N.  Hurrying on, Trail No. 117 dipped over to the E side of the ridge before heading straight for it.

Abercrombie Mountain summit (Center). Photo looks N.

Up the rest of the way, a relatively easy trudge higher as mountains go.  Naturally, it got steeper toward the end.  Lupe roamed the meadows at will, enjoying this landscape with it’s mixture of trees and open ground.

An easy trudge higher. Summit (Center). Photo looks N.
Making progress. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe was already very high, getting close to the end, when Trail No. 117 went right past an incredibly gnarled Ent at the base of a hill where the mountain finally became rocky.  Immediately beyond this first hill was a larger and even rockier one.

Near the Ent (L) guarding access to the summit region. Photo looks N.
On the rocky path to the summit plateau. Photo looks N.

At the top of the second hill, Lupe reached the S end of a summit plateau that sloped higher to the N.  Somewhat surprisingly, the plateau wasn’t all rock, but featured grassy areas and even a few stunted trees.  As Loop headed for the summit at the N end, she passed assorted human-made rock walls, remnants of the foundation of a now absent lookout, and even a Dingo fort.

Sweet!  Hang on, SPHP.  Gotta check out this fort!

On the summit plateau. Dingo fort (L)! Photo looks N.
Checking out Fort Dingo.
Approaching the old fire lookout foundation. Photo looks N.

6:35 PM, 63ºF, Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) – Maybe should have waited until tomorrow, after all?  Visibility was poor when Lupe reached the true summit at the N end of Abercrombie’s summit plateau.  An hour earlier that might not have been the case.  Disappointing.

In the odd, diffused light of a sun soon sinking into the murk, Lupe stood on what appeared to be Abercrombie Mountain’s natural highpoint.  Hard to say if these rocks really were undisturbed, or not.  The highest rocks on the mountain were part of an artificially created rock wall.  Perhaps this mound had been rearranged, too?

Nearby, a brass survey benchmark was fastened to the top of a chunk of concrete.  Several rocks were stacked on top of a green metal box.

At the apparent true summit of Abercrombie Mountain. Photo looks ENE.
The battered brass survey benchmark.

Visibility wasn’t totally obscured.  Outlines of mountains and ridges could be seen through the haze.  Hooknose Mountain (7,210 ft.) 3 miles NE was about it, though, as far as being able to see any detail.  The W breeze was bringing even worse smoke this way, so even these views might vanish.  After a few quick photos in case that happened, SPHP opened the green box.

Hooknose Mountain (Center). Photo looks NE.
Abercrombie’s summit plateau from the true summit. Photo looks SSW.
Another look at Hooknose Mountain showing more of the territory leading to it. Photo looks NE.

Mostly trash inside.  Only one decent registry, a small one with a green cover that had been started in 2020.  It was already full of entries.  No room to add Lupe’s name.  A much larger registry was all chewed up by animals to the point where it was basically worthless.  SPHP shoved it into a sack along with rotten candy, sopping wet playing and business cards, empty plastic bottles, etc. for disposal later on, leaving only the green registry, pens, and pencils in a zip lock bag.

Mind if we take a break, SPHP?

Retreating back down to some stunted conifers along the W edge of the summit plateau, Lupe found a place with some greenery to relax.

Going to take it easy for a bit. Summit (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks ENE.
Old lookout foundation (L). Back side of Fort Dingo (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Facing W toward HP6014, Loop and SPHP hung out together for a while watching the sun sink as horrid, thick smoke drifted in out of the NW.

HP6014 (L of Center) in the haze. Photo looks W.

Not even going to be any sunset, is there, SPHP?

Naw.  Too smoky!  At some point the sun will just vanish in the murk.

Are we still close to Canada?

Yup!  We should have been able to see Canada again from up here.  It’s less than 6 miles N.  Not going to happen tonight, though, Looper.

Being on Abercrombie Mountain, a super prominent peak with more than 5,000 feet of prominence, was still pretty cool, even if the views were basically shot.  Not too many supers around!  Intent upon staying up here for her traditional full summit hour, Lupe had time enough for another tour of the true summit region.  Might as well!

Near the true summit again. Photo looks N.
Looking SE. Survey benchmark (lower L).
By a cairn along the N edge. Photo looks W.
Hooknose Mountain (Center) again. Photo looks NE.

Well, getting to be about that time.  Rooting for a sunset, but knowing it wasn’t going to happen, Lupe and SPHP watched the golden orb turn red as it sank into the smoke.  Didn’t even get close to the horizon before, suddenly, it was gone.

Sunset, sort of, from Abercrombie Mountain.

A few minutes later, the Carolina Dog was gone, too.  With a great trail to follow, the descent was fun and went fast.

Starting down. Photo looks S.
By the ancient Ent again. Photo looks S.

Dusk came on even faster.  SPHP was forced to bring out the flashlight well before Loop made it back to the junction with Trail No. 119.  Soon there was movement in the gloom of the forest floor next to the trail.  Lupe got her first sniff ever of a big, fat mountain toad.

Mountain toad?  Even SPHP had never heard of such a thing!  But there it was, a real, live, ugly mountain toad hopping along in the underbrush.  Turned out it wasn’t the only one on Abercrombie Mountain, either.  Kind of creepy in the dark, but hardly dangerous.  (End, 9:18 PM, 65ºF)

You’ve got to be kidding me, right SPHP?  That’s it?  “Mountain toads – hardly dangerous.”  That’s how you’re going to end our tale of adventure about Abercrombie Mountain, a super prominent peak?

Well, what do you expect me to say, Loop?  Mountain toads seem unusual enough to deserve mention, but beyond that, they give me writer’s block.

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP, but snazz it up a bit!  How about something about the Attack of the Killer Mountain Toads!

Attack of the Killer Mountain Toads?  No one’s going to believe that, Looper!

Use your imagination, then, SPHP!  This is Washington state, right?  I know!  How about an amusing or scary tale about Big Wart!

Big Wart!  You mean like Big Foot, only, umm …

Yes!  Wartier!

Wartier!  That’s not even a word, Loopster.  I’m calling it.  Scintillating end or not, it’s just plain old, never-even-heard-of them-before mountain toads, and this is a wrap.

On Abercrombie Mountain, Selkirk Mountains, Washington 8-11-21

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GPS track by Scott Rice (7-7-18)

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