Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 – Harney Peak & Little Devils Tower (9-7-15)

Harney Peak at 7,242 feet is the highest mountain in the Black Hills and the entire state of South Dakota.  Located in the Black Elk Wilderness, it is a very popular hiking destination and can be approached from half a dozen different trailheads.  One of the shortest (about 3.5 miles one way) and most popular routes is on Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park.  Lots of people don’t realize how easy it is to add variety to the trip without significantly increasing the distance by making a loop back to Sylvan Lake via trails No. 3 & No. 4 and including an ascent of Little Devil’s Tower along the way like Lupe did on this day.

After 27 days spent on Lupe’s great summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe and SPHP finally returned home on the afternoon of 9-4-15.  However, the fun wasn’t set to end quite yet.  It was the Friday before Labor Day weekend, which in 2015 came as late as it possibly can with Labor Day falling on September 7th.  Lupe’s uncle Joe, aunt Andrea and cousin Dusty had already arrived at her Grandma’s house the previous evening.  Aunt Mush and uncle David were due to arrive on Sunday the 6th.  So Lupe got to go with SPHP over to Grandma’s house every evening from the 4th through the 7th to hang out with Dusty and all the gang, which she really enjoyed.

The high point of Labor Day weekend, though, was Labor Day itself.  On Labor Day, uncle Joe and cousin Dusty wanted to go with Lupe and SPHP to climb Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the always popular high point of South Dakota.  Of course, Lupe and SPHP were both more than willing to oblige.  So a little before 10:00 AM on Labor Day, SPHP parked the G6 near Sylvan Lake Lodge, and everyone piled out.

A short trek led down to the cool shady woods below Sylvan Lake dam.  From there Lupe and the gang followed the lakeside trail up around the N and then E sides of scenic Sylvan Lake.  Shortly before reaching the swimming beach (where dogs aren’t allowed), Dusty was ready for a swim.  Joe tossed a stick into the lake to give her swim a purpose.  Dusty was very pleased to have the opportunity to retrieve the stick.

Dusty takes a dip while retrieving a stick for Joe.
Dusty takes a dip in Sylvan Lake while retrieving a stick for Joe.

Once Dusty was sufficiently cooled off, Lupe’s whole troop continued on past the swimming beach to Trail No. 9.  The trail soon proved to be very busy with Labor Day hikers, the most crowded SPHP has ever seen it.  There were quite a few dogs of various descriptions enjoying the trail, too, so Lupe and Dusty had ample opportunities to stop and sniff with interesting new acquaintances.

Maybe 0.5 mile from Sylvan Lake, there are some rock ledges where Harney first comes into view.  Lupe’s little pack paused here for a short photo op.

Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe on the rock ledges with Harney Peak in the background. Photo looks E.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.

Trail No. 9 goes all the way to the summit, or at least to the short spur trail that leads to the summit.  Lots of people and dogs were coming and going.  With all the activity, it didn’t seem like very long before Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were at the spiral stairway just before reaching the lookout tower at the top.

The first few times Lupe had been to Harney Peak, she was scared of the metal stairs, because she could look right through the grate down to the rocks below.  Back then, SPHP had to carry the nervous dingo over the stairs.  Lupe still doesn’t entirely trust these stairs, but with a little encouragement, she navigated them on her own.  If they bothered Dusty, she didn’t show it.

Upon reaching the lookout tower, everyone first went out to the viewing platform next to the tower.  SPHP held Lupe up above the rock wall so she could see the views.  A little later on, after SPHP put her down, she suddenly leaped up onto the rock wall so she could see all by herself.  SPHP made her get down so she couldn’t fall off.   Meanwhile, Joe went and climbed the short steep stairs (virtually a ladder) up to the top of the lookout tower.

Joe and Dusty on the viewing platform next to the Harney Peak lookout tower.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.

Lupe doesn’t like the way the metal grating that forms the floor of the viewing platform feels on her paws, so she was soon done at the lookout tower.  Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP headed down to the tower’s basement and out to a path leading over to the big granite outcropping to the W of the summit.  It was less busy and more peaceful over there, although a bit breezy.  It was a good place to pause for a snack while admiring the views.

Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney's summit.
Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney’s summit.

Lupe and Dusty were quite enthusiastic about sharing the Cliff bar SPHP brought out of the pack, and the Kind bars Joe took out of his pack.  Dusty ate some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild too, with evident relish.  She even polished off SPHP’s apple core, although that was a step too far for Lupe.  American Dingoes can be picky at times.  Both dogs helped lighten SPHP’s pack by slurping up plenty of water to wash it all down with.

Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe & Joe
Lupe & Joe
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.

A trip up to Harney Peak on or near Labor Day is becoming a tradition.  On September 2, 2014 (the day after Labor Day), Joe, Dusty, Lupe & SPHP were up here, too.  In 2014, Joe had called his son Matthew from Harney Peak, since it was Matt’s birthday.  This time he called his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin.

Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey in Wisconsin, from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats becoming a Labor Day tradition.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats on Harney Peak becoming a Labor Day tradition.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.

With snacking, sight-seeing and social obligations completed, it was time to head back down from Harney Peak over the spiral stairway, which Lupe again navigated successfully, back to Trail No. 9.  Quite near the bottom of the stairs were some horses that had brought people up the trail.  Lupe was a good Carolina Dog and did not bark at them, although it was tempting.  Dusty paid no attention to the horses.

The undisturbed horses Lupe didn't bark at.
The undisturbed horses Lupe didn’t bark at.

Maybe 10 minutes or so down from Harney’s summit, there is a rock ledge with a great view to the S of Peak 6735.  Lupe graciously posed for a couple of photos from here.

A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.
A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.

Lupe with Peak 6735 in the background 9-7-15Rather than head straight back down Trail No. 9 all the way to Sylvan Lake, Joe and Dusty were willing to explore the trails over to the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) and possibly climb Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), which neither of them had done before.  This had the advantage of showing them some new territory while making a loop back to Sylvan Lake.  So Lupe and her troop took Trail No. 3 where it met up with Trail No. 9.

Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.

A relatively short trek on Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4, which passes to the N of the Cathedral Spires over to a little saddle between the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.  Trail No. 4 goes over this pass heading S where there are some close up views of the Cathedral Spires.

The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.
The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.  Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.

It isn’t far from the saddle to a spur trail that goes perhaps 0.25 mile to Little Devils Tower.  Most of the spur trail is an easy hike along a scenic ridge.  There is one relatively short section of annoyingly steep trail with a lot of loose rock on it, but it soon ends at a little saddle between big granite rocks.

A left turn at the saddle reveals a narrow crevasse in the granite.  This crevasse is marked by a painted blue diamond.  Blue and white diamonds mark the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower.   This involves some scrambling up the granite, but even relatively small children can do it with a bit of help.  The rough granite provides good footing and there isn’t much exposure most of the way.  Naturally Lupe, Joe, Dusty and SPHP all made it to the top of Little Devils Tower.

Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak and St. Elmo Peak.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) (most distant large rock outcropping at center of photo) and St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) (smallish looking peak at left center beyond the dark rock hump).

From Little Devils Tower, it was just a matter of following the spur trail back to Trail No. 4 and then continuing SW on down the valley.  Trail No. 4 led to the Little Devils Tower trailhead on Hwy 89 (Needles Highway – the Cathedral Spires are also called the Needles).  The trail continues though, another 0.5 mile or so, and leads back to the picnic ground on Sylvan Lake.  Once back at Sylvan Lake, Dusty was ready for another swim with just a little encouragement from Joe and another stick.Joe & Dusty at Sylvan Lake 9-7-15

Dusty’s 2nd swim of the day and another stick rescued.

While Joe and Dusty were engaged with sticks and water, Lupe and SPHP were up on the rocks taking a few pics of the lake.

Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
Looking S at a large rock off shore from the swimming beach. Sylvan Lake is a popular place to swim in late summer.

By about 4:30 PM, Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were all back at the G6.  It had been a great day spent together, but was now time to head back to Grandma’s house for a lasagna dinner.  Of course, Lupe had some!  Carolina Dogs like Italian food!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 was Lupe’s 6th time up Harney Peak and 4th time up Little Devils Tower.  It was Joe’s 3rd time and Dusty’s 2nd time up Harney, and their 1st time up Little Devils Tower.  For SPHP, we just don’t know anymore.

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Sunwapta & Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-28-13)

At 6:00 AM on 7-28-13, Day 19 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canadian Rockies, Lupe was back at the Icefields Centre just off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The sun was starting to shine on the snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.  No one else was around.  The Icefields Centre wouldn’t open for a quite a while yet.  Even though it was statistically close to the very hottest time of year, the morning had the bright crisp feel of a day in late fall back home.  It was a chilly 32°F.  Lupe and SPHP admired the magnificent mountain scene in the early morning glow.

Dawn at Mt. Athabasca 7-28-13.
Dawn of a new day on Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.) 7-28-13.
Snow Dome and the Dome Glacier
Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) and the Dome Glacier

A couple of really big waterfalls were on Lupe’s agenda for the day.  Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The road steadily lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  After a 15 minute drive admiring the towering mountains in every direction, the G6 descended into a bank of fog that lasted for miles.  There were road signs for Caribou crossings that added to a sense of mystery and isolation.  Lupe was farther N than she had ever been before.

Eventually the fog bank ended.  The mountains were visible again.  The road by now was only losing elevation slowly.  It was almost level.  On the right (E) side of the highway, SPHP spotted a sign for the Poboktan Creek trailhead.  SPHP turned off the highway to check it out, but had to disappoint Lupe when it turned out to be a trailhead for long distance backpacking.  Dogs, even American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs, were prohibited.

Back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again, it wasn’t long before SPHP drove past a restaurant on the left (W) side of the road.  Going past the restaurant, SPHP saw signs on it that said something about Sunwapta Falls.  SPHP had been watching for road signs for the Sunwapta Falls turnoff, but SPHP had either missed them or they didn’t exist.  No matter.  SPHP turned around and drove back to take the paved side road heading W to the Sunwapta Falls picnic ground and trailhead.  It wasn’t far at all to the falls and Lupe was there within just a few minutes.

Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13
Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13

The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier, which wasn’t that far away back where Lupe had just started her morning only a little while ago.  It was already a powerful river.  Sunwapta Falls was impressive.  The Sunwapta River is a tributary of the Athabasca River, which it would soon join not too many more miles away downstream.

SPHP casually checked the trail information and map posted near the parking lot.  There were 2 trails.  One went a long distance far beyond anything SPHP had in mind.  However, there was another shorter one going down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  The information said Lower Sunwapta Falls actually consists of a series of 3 more waterfalls in close succession.

The hike to Lower Sunwapta Falls was supposed to be just a 1 hour round trip.  It sounded like fun.  There probably wouldn’t be that many people going to the lower falls.  Upper Sunwapta Falls was the tallest of the falls, and very conveniently right there at the parking lot.  Lupe could probably bark at squirrels along the trail to the lower falls without annoying anyone.

There was a bridge across the river just downstream of Sunwapta Falls.  Lupe and SPHP admired the falls from the bridge.  SPHP then continued on across and followed the trail on the other side.  The trail disappeared into the forest.  Lupe likes being in forests and was having a good time.  There were, indeed, a few squirrels to bark at, which she did with great enthusiasm.

However, it started becoming clear that the trail was leaving the Sunwapta River far behind.  SPHP started to suspect this was the long distance trail.  SPHP should have paid closer attention to the map back at the falls.  After following this trail for at least a mile, the Sunwapta River could barely be heard in the distance.  It was time to turn around.

Back at Sunwapta Falls again, SPHP looked around.  From the high fenced viewpoint farthest downstream was a trail following the river.  This trail was on the same side of the river as the parking lot.  It proved to be the trail that does lead down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  It lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  Soon Lupe reached the lower falls.

Lower Sunwapta Falls
Lower Sunwapta Falls
Sunwapta River below the falls.
Sunwapta River.

The lower falls were pretty impressive and worth seeing.  The trail continued along the Sunwapta River for some distance downstream beyond the lower falls.  Lupe was having such a good time, that SPHP followed it a while longer before turning around.  The Sunwapta River became a gentler stream as it continued on its way.

Sunwapta River
Sunwapta River

Sunwapta River, Jasper NP 7-28-13When Lupe and SPHP finally got back to the G6, it was after 10:00 AM, but still only 36°F.  Things had gotten busy again.  The parking lot isn’t all that large, but cars and people were coming and going.

Leaving Sunwapta Falls behind, Lupe and SPHP got back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again still going N.  Very soon SPHP saw another turnout for a trail on the right (E) side of the highway.  Only one other car was at the trailhead when Lupe arrived.  A sign said the trail went to Buck and Osprey Lakes, but there were no maps or distances given.  SPHP had no idea what to expect, but it looked like an opportunity for some exploration with Lupe where there wouldn’t be too many people around.

The forest was leafy and damp.  Lupe was soon quite a soggy doggie, but she was perfectly happy with that.  Lupe didn’t have to look long to find the first lake.  A short trek led to a sign at a trail intersection.  Buck Lake was just 0.1 km straight ahead, and Osprey Lake was only 1.2 km to the left.  Lupe checked out Buck Lake first.  Buck Lake was shallow and weedy, but looked like it might be a great quiet place for ducks or other waterfowl.  Lupe went back to the intersection and took the trail to Osprey Lake.

Osprey Lake was bigger, more open, deeper and cleaner looking.  There were a couple of kayakers on it.  It appeared as though there was better access to Osprey Lake from the other side.  There were more people and kayaks over there.  There was no continuation of the trails Lupe was on along the shores of either Buck or Osprey Lake, so Lupe and SPHP just went to each lake, took a look, and headed back.  Lupe still had a great time in the wet, leafy, mossy forest.

Osprey Lake
Osprey Lake

It was a bit past 11 AM when Lupe returned to the G6.  She had already been on 3 trails this morning.  SPHP found a picnic ground on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 just a short drive N from the Buck & Osprey Lakes trailhead.  This little picnic ground is now a favorite spot.  It is just off the highway, so access is super easy.  Its great attraction, though, is that it is right next to the Athabasca River with some excellent views.  Several of the picnic tables are just a few feet away from the edge of the riverbank.

After lunch, it was only 5 or 6 miles farther N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to a left turn onto Hwy 93A, which very shortly leads to parking lots for the mighty Athabasca Falls.  By this point, the Sunwapta River has joined the Athabasca.  The flow of water over Athabasca Falls is tremendous and powerful.Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13

The Athabasca River has carved a narrow canyon right through the rock below the falls.
The Athabasca River has carved a narrow channel right through the rock below the falls.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca River, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls is a huge tourist attraction.  SPHP was very glad Lupe got to see it.  The falls are gorgeous and amazing.

Athabasca Falls was justifiably a very busy place.  Lupe spent a good 30 or 45 minutes there, during which time she made a few friends among the throng.  In truth, though, she probably far preferred the less dramatic and much more ordinary forest trail to Buck and Osprey Lakes.  One good chattering squirrel makes her happier than a crowd of strangers.  SPHP often feels the same way.

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Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.