Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 329 – Redbird Canyon to Dumbuk Ridge (5-11-24)

7:22 AM – The Carolina Dog stood smiling in the sunshine, the cloudless sky a deep blue above her, the still morning air cool and fresh.

This must be Redbird Canyon, SPHP!  Look at those gorgeous red cliffs!

Redbird Canyon. Photo looks N.

Simply splendid, Looper, but I think I messed up.  This is Redbird Canyon alright, but the road we’re on appears to be someone’s private driveway.

Lupe had to return to the RAV4.  SPHP then backed out to where the road forked.  SPHP had found all the private property signs pointing to the R a bit confusing.  That was where USFS Road No. 376 went, though, which was quickly confirmed as SPHP drove farther up the canyon.

Going around a curve 1.5 miles beyond the driveway mistakenly taken, another fabulous view was ahead.

Not quite as red, but another impressive canyon wall. Photo looks NW.

So beautiful!  Why not start from here, SPHP?

If we want to have a realistic shot at getting to Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.), I don’t think that’s wise, Loop.  It would be a very long march from here.  We’ll be much better off driving at least a few more miles up the canyon.

Easier said than done!  Once beyond this second view, Redbird Canyon narrowed considerably.  USFS Road No. 376 deteriorated to a single lane track.  Ordinarily it still would have been fine, but as the primitive road snaked up the narrow canyon there were signs that a powerful storm had passed through the area in just the last day or two.

Traumatized young pines hung over No. 376, scraping both sides of the RAV4 as SPHP drove cautiously through a series of huge mud puddles.  A particularly long underwater stretch soon appeared ahead, crowded by bent trees creating a tunnel effect.  SPHP hesitated.

Dang!  Would be a real disaster to get stuck in here, Loop.  I had no idea that we ought to expect anything like this.

Don’t get us stuck, SPHP!  Not worth it!

Despite the water, the road really hadn’t been all that soft so far.  SPHP gambled that the RAV4 wouldn’t sink in some super mucky spot before reaching the other end.

Hah!  Made it, Loopster!

Lucky, SPHP!  You should have been buying lottery tickets today!

Still not out of the woods yet, though.  As No. 376 kept winding steadily higher, plenty of blowdown had fallen partially over it.  Often there was just enough room to squeeze by.  Nevertheless, as progress continued, SPHP grew optimistic.

We’re gaining a descent amount of elevation, Looper.  If we can just keep putsing along a little farther, I bet we’ll come to the end of this mess.

It seemed SPHP was about to be proven correct when, after rounding a curve, the undeniable end was directly ahead.  As usual, buying lottery tickets wouldn’t have been such a hot idea after all.

End of the line. Photo looks WNW.

7:53 AM, 46ºF, USFS Road No. 376 in Redbird Canyon – Fortunately a spot just large enough to park the RAV4 was along the R side of the road.

Appears we’re in for a very long day, Loop.

Didn’t seem to bother the American Dingo in the least.  SPHP grabbed the pack, and Lupe was on her way.

A final glance back at the RAV4 while setting out for Dumbuk Ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Excited and happy to be out in the hills on such a beautiful morning, Lupe led the way.  SPHP had been right, after all.  Within 0.25 mile, the Carolina Dog leapt over the last of the blowdown, and USFS Road No. 376 was perfectly fine after that as the canyon widened out again.

Beyond the last obstacles, continuing up Redbird Canyon on USFS Road No. 376. Photo looks NE.

I’m surprised you didn’t call this adventure off when we hit the roadblock, SPHP.  Why didn’t you?  Or isn’t it that far to Dumbuk Ridge anymore?

Well, the RAV4 at least got far enough to shorten the distance somewhat, Loop.  Even so, Dumbuk Ridge is still a long march.  However, since it’s nearly all a road hike, I’m thinking we’ll be able to make excellent time.

Seemed like a good bet.  A quick 0.75 mile, and a junction with USFS Road No. 376.2B appeared on the R.

At the first junction. USFS Road No. 376 (L), No. 376.2B (R). Photo looks N.

Which way, SPHP?

Either would work, Loop, but let’s skip 2B, and keep going straight.  Part of our reason for coming here was to explore more of Redbird Canyon.

Continuing N on No. 376, the road climbed steadily at an easy pace.  Lupe came to no more beautiful red cliffs, but it was still an interesting trek with something new to look forward to around each bend.  Oddly, much of the W side of Redbird Canyon had burned years ago, but most of the E side hadn’t, creating two quite different landscapes.

As the sun got higher and the day warmed up, Lupe appreciated the shady stretches where No. 376 stayed toward the E.  Before long, SPHP was surprised to see a little snow along the upper W rim of the canyon.  No snow down by the road yet, but Lupe was perfectly happy quenching her thirst in the frequent mud puddles, wading through and sampling each one as she came to it.

Continuing up Redbird Canyon on USFS Road No 376. Photo looks N.
Enjoying a shady stretch on the E side of the canyon. Snow visible (L) along the upper W rim. Photo looks NNW.

Although there weren’t any more red cliffs, Lupe did pass a variety of gray, tan, white, and yellow ones.  Along one stretch, the base of a big wall of limestone was pock-marked by a series of recessions resembling small caves.  The American Dingo conducted a brief investigation, but none of these recessions went into the rock more than a few feet.

Passing a wall of limestone. Photo looks NE.
Next to one of tallest cliffs. Photo looks NE.
By the oddly pock-marked cliff. Photo looks NW.

More than a mile beyond the junction with No. 376.2B, two side canyons joined in from the E at a spot where Redbird Canyon widened out.  Here, a “No Motor Vehicle” wand stood alone in a field for no apparent reason, since no other road or route was in sight.

Weird, why is that wand here, SPHP?

The topo map shows USFS Road No. 280.2R coming down that drainage to the SE, Loop.  However, it dead ends before it ever links up with No. 376.  I suppose some people tried to drive through this field anyway.

That’s it?  I was hoping for a deeper mystery, SPHP.  Dullsville!

Sorry, Loop.  I’ll try to come up with a more exotic answer to whatever your next question might be.

Both the road and Redbird Canyon went on and on.  Soon after passing the pock-marked cliff, the canyon narrowed down to a much smaller gap.  Green grass was springing up around muckiest-looking mudhole yet.  Lupe promptly helped herself to another drink.

At “Mudhole Gap“. Photo looks NNW.

How’s the water, Looper?  Getting your minerals?

Refreshing, and actually quite clear, SPHP.  Doesn’t look like anyone’s been through here to stir it up in a while.

I know.  This part of Redbird Canyon feels awfully remote.  Pristine, too!  Scarcely any trash at all.

That’s a good thing, SPHP!  

Indeed!  Speaking of refreshing, maybe we should look for a spot to take a break, Loop?  It’s been a long time since a skimpy breakfast.

The Carolina Dog was in complete agreement with that notion.  Beyond “Mudhole Gap”, Redbird Canyon widened out again.  After going around a few more bends, another junction was ahead.  With a couple of pines providing shade, and a scenic wall of rock just W of the intersection, this looked like a good spot.  SPHP dropped the backpack.

Lupe munched on Taste of the Wild.  SPHP sipped a strawberry Equate.

So, where are we now, SPHP?

We’re at the junction with USFS Road No. 376.3A, Loopster, which goes up the drainage to the E.  We’ll be sticking with plain old No. 376, though.

Is it still a long way to Dumbuk Ridge?

Yup.  We’re not even half way yet, Loop.  Maybe not even a third of the way to the true summit.

As pleasant as it was sitting in the shade of the pines, Lupe couldn’t stick around for long.  Soon it was time to hit the road again.

N of the junction with No. 376.3A, the old forest fire had burned quite a bit of territory even on the E side of Redbird Canyon.  Shade was scarcer, but having gained quite a bit of elevation by now, the American Dingo began discovering little patches of snow even down by the road.  As far as Lupe was concerned, chomping snow helped make up for the lack of shade, and was even more fun than strolling through mud puddles.

Entering more open territory. Photo looks NNW.
Same hillside from the road. Photo looks WNW.
Starting to see more snow ahead. Photo looks NNE.

The cliffs on both sides of the canyon were getting smaller.  After a long straight stretch between them, the cliffs faded completely away.  Several rounded hills were now ahead, each sporting patches of snow.  Another intersection appeared where a fainter road angled uphill toward the R.

SPHP checked the map.

Stay L again on No. 376, SPHP?

No. 376 is actually the fainter road on the R here, Loop.  Its about to leave Redbird Canyon, and should link up not too far away with No. 284.5I, which is the shortest route to Dumbuk Ridge’s summit.

Oh, OK!  R then on No. 376.

Nope!  Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.) is kind of funny, Loopster.  The highest point is located in a big flat area 0.2 mile W of Rogers Lake, but the part of the mountain that is actually labeled as Dumbuk Ridge is farther NW.  If we stay to the L on USFS Road No. 284.5A, it will take us up Sled Canyon to No. 284, which we can then follow up the NW end of Dumbuk Ridge.

Not only funny, but a bit confusing, SPHP.  Whatever you want to do is fine with me.  All I want to know is which way, L or R?

L, Looper!

USFS Road No. 284.5A to Sled Canyon (L), No. 376 to No. 284.5I (R). Photo looks NNE.

Staying low and to the L, Lupe abandoned No. 376 for No. 284.5A.  Going around the first bend, she almost immediately came to a gate.

Approaching a gate (L) on USFS Road No. 284.5A. Redbird Canyon (R). Photo looks NE.

Can we go through this gate, SPHP?

Yup!  This is all Black Hills National Forest, Looper.

By the gate at the S end of Sled Canyon. Photo looks N.

Sled Canyon was more like a valley than a canyon.  Not much in the way of rock walls here.  The first part had all burned, leaving only a few big pines, and a thin new crop of young ones up on the barren hillsides.

Heading up Sled Canyon. Photo looks NW.
More snow, but not enough to go sledding yet. Photo looks NW.

After rounding a couple more bends on No. 284.5A, the end of the burn region was in sight.  Suddenly, Lupe raced ahead.  Stopping right on the road, she stared over at the barren ridge to the E.  Still out in the open, 3 mule deer were picking their way through deadfall high up on the ridge.  To the American Dingo’s frustration, they quickly reached the live forest and vanished into the trees.

First exciting thing we’ve seen all day, SPHP, other than a few little birds.

We’ve still got a long way to go, Loop.  You never know what we might run into.  How about taking another break when we get to the trees?  A bit of shade sounds good, doesn’t it?  Feel like I’m getting a lot of sun.

Upon reaching the live forest, 2 large, round water troughs were in view down a short slope at the bottom of Sled Canyon.  Fed by a trickle from a spring, both troughs were full of water covered with a thick layer of floating green slime.

Let’s take a break here, Loop, so we can enjoy this magnificent view.

As long as there’s shade, I’m happy with it, SPHP.

The scenic water troughs (R). Photo looks NNE.
Enjoying the shade. Photo looks N.

While relaxing under a big pine, the usual fare was on offer.  Water and Taste of the Wild for Lupe.  SPHP polished off what remained of the strawberry Equate.

The journey up Sled Canyon continued.  A short steepish stretch led to a bend where No. 284.5A leveled out.  The territory ahead was more open.  Melting snow made the road so soft that it soon had to be abandoned.  Following a cow path through a long field paralleling No. 284.5A, Lupe explored the upper end of Sled Canyon, which amounted to little more than a gradually sloping pasture in this region.

At the snowy bend along USFS Road No. 284.5A. Photo looks WNW.
The gently sloping field at the upper end of Sled Canyon. Photo looks NNW.

At the far end, Lupe reached a major intersection.  USFS Road No. 284.5A joined No. 284 here, a much better gravel road.

No. 284 to Dumbuk Ridge (L). No. 284.5A to Sled Canyon (R). Photo looks SSE.

Looks like we’re finally getting somewhere, Loopster!  Only a little over a mile E as the crow flies to where we can start climbing Dumbuk Ridge.

Sounds good, SPHP!

I failed to mention that No. 284 doesn’t go at all like the crow flies, Loop.  It actually winds around a bunch, then drops back down into another part of Redbird Canyon.  Only after all that will it take us up Dumbuk Ridge.

Sheesh!  Are you any relation to Columbus, SPHP?  I can only imagine what Christopher’s Dingo had to put up with.  “India is far to the E, Sweet Puppy, a whole continent away!  Let’s go W to get there!”

No. 284 climbed E, then SE, finally topping out at HP6066.  This region was so flat that, despite the relative openness of the forest, there still wasn’t much in the way of any distant views yet.

Near HP6066 along USFS Road No. 284. Photo looks S.

It wasn’t until the road started downhill and curved NE, descending into Redbird Canyon again, that Lupe saw a burnt hillside full of deadfall topped by a large flat region of live forest above.

Starting back down into Redbird Canyon again. Photo looks SE.
Dumbuk Ridge beyond Redbird Canyon from USFS Road No. 284. Photo looks E.

That’s it, Loopster.  That’s all part of Dumbuk Ridge.

Really?  That’s Dumbuk Ridge?  I can see why we didn’t bother to bring any special climbing gear, SPHP.  We’re talking genuine light Class 1 here, if that, maybe Class 0.4 or thereabouts.

Hah!  Yeah, I’m not expecting any trouble, Loop.  Today is more of a simple endurance road hike.  No difficulties, other than the unexpected blowdown that prevented us from getting a closer start.

Upon reaching the bottom of Redbird Canyon, Lupe temporarily left the road to take another short break in the shade of several big pines.  This time, SPHP provided duck jerky in addition to water and Taste of the Wild.  Once SPHP finished consuming an orange, Lupe returned to No. 284, which headed due N as she began her ascent of Dumbuk Ridge.

Back in Redbird Canyon. Photo looks S.

Climbing steadily, No. 284 soon made a sharp turn back to the SE, before eventually turning ESE.  Upon reaching the region actually marked as Dumbuk Ridge on the topo map, a decent distant view finally appeared to the S.  Leaving the road, Lupe went over for a better look.  A cluster of 3 mountains the Carolina Dog had been to before was on the horizon.

That’s Wildcat Peak (5,513 ft.) on the L, and Elk Benchmark (5,672 ft.) on the R, SPHP, but what’s the one in the middle again?

Peak 5500, Loop.  Kind of far off, but they look great, don’t they?

Easily the best distant view of the day so far, SPHP.  Of course, it’s also about the only only we’ve had, too.

Wildcat Peak (L of Center), Peak 5500 (Center) and Elk Benchmark (R of Center) on the horizon from Dumbuk Ridge. Photo looks S.

Lists of John shows the high point of Dumbuk Ridge on the other side of No. 284, Looper.  Let’s go check out what we can see over there.

Venturing NE back across No. 284, Lupe quickly reached the minor rise that the topo map and Lists of John both seemed to agree was Dumbuk Ridge’s high point.  Beyond a huge valley to the N, a region of grasslands dotted with pines rose toward a forested, pancake flat tableland.

Nice, but the view to the S is better, SPHP.  What valley is this, anyway?

It’s actually more of Redbird Canyon, Looper.

Seriously?  How much farther does Redbird Canyon go, SPHP?

Miles, Loopster, but we’ve explored all of it that we’re going to today.

Redbird Canyon from the official Dumbuk Ridge high point. Photo looks N.

While Lupe had made it to what was apparently considered the official high point of Dumbuk Ridge, the true summit of the massive, otherwise unnamed ridge it was part of was still more than a mile SE.  As far as SPHP was concerned, a visit to the true summit was also mandatory.

So, staying a bit N of USFS Road No. 284, the American Dingo headed E.  Beyond a slight dip, she climbed a long, grassy slope dotted with pines.  The terrain soon leveled out quite a bit.  Turning SE, Lupe explored a somewhat denser forest searching for higher ground.  At a couple of points, she came across No. 284 again, but followed it only a little way before heading back into the forest.  When the ground finally stopped rising, she was going almost due S.

Setting off in search of the true summit. Photo looks E.

1:20 PM, 65ºF, Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.) – Lupe stood on a stump, a huge area of flat, open forest stretching away in all directions.

On the Dumbuk Ridge summit plateau. Photo looks SSE.

Think this is about it, SPHP.  Doesn’t look like we can go any higher.  Time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it?

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then looked around.  Nearby, a tiny rise covered with kinnikinnick at the base of a pine tree seemed to be the actual true summit, or as close to it as it was possible to discern.

Congratulations, Loopster on another successful ascent!  Let’s go over to that patch of kinnikinnick to make it official, and call it good, or at least close enough for Dingo work, and we’ll split a chocolate coconut bar.  Got more duck jerky and Taste of the Wild for you, too, if you’re interested.

At Dumbuk Ridge’s true summit. Photo looks SSW.

During a pleasant half hour break, Lupe enjoyed all of the above.

Not much to see up here, is there, SPHP?  The views were better back at the Lists of John and map summit, despite being 170 feet lower.

Yeah, can’t see much due to all the trees, Loop.  However, Dumbuk Ridge does have one attraction we ought to check out before we leave.  0.2 mile E of here, there’s a pond I’ve seen on the maps for years and have always been curious about.  It’s called Rogers Lake.  Looks like it must be pretty small, it’s just a speck on the map, but want to go see it?

Why not, SPHP?  We’re here now.  And while we’re at it, we ought to tag the true summit of Dumbuk Ridge.

As far as I can tell, this is it, Loopster.

Take another look around, SPHP.  Two fallen trees have a bunch of rocks tangled in their roots.  Those rocks are currently the highest ones on Dumbuk Ridge, a good 2 feet higher than where we’re at right now.  All natural, too.  You can’t say they aren’t!

Hmm.  Whatever happened to “good enough for Dingo work”?  Seems you’ve become quite the finicky peakbagging purist all of a sudden, haven’t you?  Alright, fine with me, Looper.  I’ll concede that those rocks are a bit higher, so let’s visit your 2 stumps, then we’ll go on to scenic Rogers Lake.

At Lupe’s Dumbuk Ridge true summit, with her other candidate seen on the R. Photo looks SE.

After visiting her stump high points, Lupe roamed SE through the forest.  A gentle 15 or 20 foot slope led down to a big field.

Searching for Rogers Lake. Photo looks ENE.

Keep going, Loop!  Rogers Lake ought to be somewhere over at the far side of this field.

Sure enough, it was.

2:11 PM – Lupe reached Rogers Lake right where it was supposed to be, just W of USFS Road No. 284.5D.  Meltwater from 2 shallow snowbanks trickled into what amounted to a tiny stock pond.

Arriving at Rogers Lake. Photo looks NE.

Not sure what travel brochure you saw, SPHP, but I’d bet a T-bone steak that we’re the only tourists Rogers Lake has ever attracted.

Have to admit, it’s no Clayton Pond, is it, Loop?  Sort of underwhelming.

Underwhelming?  It’s not whelming at all, SPHP!  Disappointing is the word you’re looking for.

Poor Rogers Lake!  Once upon a time, it must have amounted to more than this, or how would it ever have been included on any map?  The water was only an inch deep, and even that was temporary.  As soon as those snowbanks vanished, Rogers Lake would be nothing more than a little mud flat cracking as it dried beneath the sun.

Yet Lupe stayed, relaxing in the shade of a few young pines, while the snow glittered as it melted away, momentarily staving off Roger Lake’s inevitable baked mud flat phase soon to come.

Hanging out at Rogers Lake. Photo looks SW.

Duck jerky?  I’ve got one left for you, Looper.

The duck jerky vanished.  SPHP drank another strawberry Equate, then shook the Carolina Dog’s paw again.

Final congratulations at the end of the Dumbuk Ridge and Rogers Lake tour.

Guess this concludes our tour of Dumbuk Ridge.  Congratulations once again on your successful ascent, Loop.  You’re a good sport!  It was a long march without much to show for it.

Lupe smiled and seemed pleased.

It’s been a great day, SPHP!  We’ve explored lots of new territory.  I wish every day could be this much fun.

Lots more new territory on the way back, too, Loopster!  We’re going to make a giant loop.  Since we took the long way around on the way here, it won’t be quite as long on the way back.

Leaving Rogers Lake, Lupe headed S on No. 284.5D to No. 284.  This time the American Dingo followed No. 284 S 0.7 mile to a R turn onto No. 280.

Heading S on USFS Road No. 284 after leaving Rogers Lake. Photo looks S.
USFS Road No. 280 near the junction with No. 284. Photo looks S.

Shortly after making the turn onto No. 280, another pond with much more water and a huge log in it appeared just E of the road.  Lupe went over for a look.

I know where we are now, SPHP!  This must be Rogers Ocean!

You’re a riot, Loopster!

At Rogers Ocean. Photo looks SE.

No. 280 wound around quite a bit, gradually losing elevation most of the time, but this was all still pretty high ground.  There were more distant views to enjoy along this route, and progress was fast and easy.  Various side roads appeared, but Lupe stuck with No. 280 for a long way.

Gillette Canyon (L) from USFS Road No. 280. Photo looks SE.
View to the WSW.
At the spot where Lupe took a final short break. Photo looks WSW.

At a junction with USFS Road No. 376.3D, No 280 turned S again.  A long straight stretch through an enormous field was ahead, the whole thing another gradual downhill march.  Finally getting close to the forest at the far end, Lupe suddenly sprinted ahead.  Soon she came racing back, pink tongue hanging out, panting hard.

Giant deers, SPHP!  Lots of them!

I know, Loop.  Saw them after you took off.

Spotting Lupe coming for them, the giant deers had run off, but not very far.  Since they kept retreating along the same road the American Dingo was following, Lupe kept spotting them ahead again around each bend.  What’s more, instead of dispersing, their numbers were growing!

A wary young giant deer with help from the telephoto lens.
The giant deers retreat. Once again taken with help from the telephoto lens.

By the time the giant deers finally figured out that all they had to do was run off into the forest instead of following the road, there were easily 50 or 60 of them milling around, maybe even 100.

Just beyond the spot where the giant deers vanished, a small rise was ahead.  Going over it, a wonderful view greeted Lupe, the same one she had seen from Dumbuk Ridge, only closer.

Wildcat Peak (Center), Peak 5500 (R of Center), Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks SSW.

Wildcat Peak, Peak 5500, and Elk Benchmark!  We saved the best for last, didn’t we, SPHP?  All these giant deers, and now the grandest view of all.  Redbird Canyon, Dumbuk Ridge, Rogers Lake & Ocean – it’s all been fun, beautiful, remote.  We’ve been in Dingo Paradise all this time, haven’t we?

You know it, Sweet Puppy!  (End 5:44 PM, 63ºF)

On Dumbuk Ridge, Black Hills of South Dakota, 5-11-24
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