Black Hills, SD & WY Expedition No. 91 – Peak 6888, Bald Hills, the Weston County, Wyoming High Point, Peak 6645, & Laird Peak (6-1-14)

There’s nothing so rare as a day in June, and June had just arrived!  Both Lupe and SPHP were raring to go, even though scattered thunderstorms were in the afternoon forecast.  The plan was to head way out into the high country of the NW Black Hills for some peakbagging fun.  First up were Peak 6888 and the Bald Hills (6,690 ft.), both within a few miles of the Wyoming border.

Although there were already clouds around, the sun was still shining when SPHP parked the G6 more than 0.5 mile W of County Road No. 117 along USFS Road No. 109 (Parmlee Canyon Road) at 9:39 AM (59°F).  Lupe and SPHP started out taking Bear Canyon Road S from No. 109.  Bear Canyon Road was just a dirt road that looked like it seldom gets any traffic.  It passed through a field in a shallow valley and then entered the forest, winding its way up a low ridge at a pretty decent clip.

The climb was a short one.  Bear Canyon Road soon leveled out, and reached a clearing where there was an intersection with more faint roads.  Several whitetail deer ran off into the forest as Lupe approached the intersection.  Peak 6888 is about 0.75 mile S of Parmlee Canyon Road.  SPHP figured Lupe still had to go a bit farther S to get there.  The road continuing S was marked as USFS Road No. 117.5J.

Lupe followed No. 117.5J up a couple of little rises.  The road leveled out again after each one.  When the road seemed to be at its highest point, SPHP stopped to check the topo map.  The summit of Peak 6888 was supposed to be a little W of the road.  The entire area looked quite level, although the forest did look a bit higher off to the NW.  Lupe and SPHP left the road exploring the forest to the NW, while searching for an obvious high point or marker.

Lupe found neither.  A big area was almost as flat as a pancake.  Nothing seemed discernably higher or lower than anywhere else.  Lupe saw more deer, but summits were scarce.  Well, Loop, looks like this is all the summit!  SPHP encouraged Lupe to hop up onto a big log.  This can be your summit photo, Lupe!  Might as well call it good, and go on to the Bald Hills.

Lupe seemed happy enough to call this log the summit of Peak 6888. There were no views in any direction, just more flat forest extending all around.
Lupe seemed happy enough to call this log the summit of Peak 6888. There were no views in any direction, just more flat forest extending all around.

Peak 6888 was now in Lupe’s bag, but it hadn’t been too exciting.  At least there was a little excitement when Lupe and SPHP returned to No. 117.5J.  Lupe saw a female elk crossing the road.  The elk saw Lupe and SPHP, too.  It took off running, but seemed confused on which way it wanted to go.  It finally disappeared off to the SE.

Lupe and SPHP continued S on No. 117.5J.  Almost right away, Lupe came to a big square mud puddle where the road started angling SW.  Lupe ran over to wade around and get a big drink of mineral water.

Lupe discovers the mineral water pond on Peak 6888.
Lupe discovers the mineral water puddle on Peak 6888.
The mineral water pond looked like it could have been milk chocolate flavored.
The mineral water puddle looked like it could have been milk chocolate flavored.

From the milk chocolate colored mineral water puddle, No. 117.5J started losing elevation slowly, but steadily, as it went SW for about 0.75 mile.  The road appeared to end in a small valley near a couple of stock ponds.  There were several barbed wire fences in the area.   Lupe and SPHP headed S across the little valley, and climbed up the next low ridge ahead.  Up on top, Lupe found USFS Road No. 113 at a green gate.

By now the sky was completely overcast, and it began to rain steadily.  SPHP wore a blue plastic rain poncho, but Lupe was doomed to become a progressively more soggy doggie.  Lupe and SPHP marched W on No. 113 in the mud and rain.  The clouds grew darker.  The downpour strengthened, and the woods filled with fog.

Although Lupe ordinarily loves to get wet playing with the garden hose on warm, sunny days, the dreary downpour seemed to dampen her spirits.  For 2 miles, Lupe and SPHP slogged W on No. 113.  SPHP began to wonder what ever happened to the “scattered” part of the scattered T-storms in the forecast.  It looked like it could rain buckets all day.

After going 2 miles, Lupe started passing by minor side roads that SPHP was expecting to see, and No. 113 gradually turned S.  The road had been fairly level most of the time, but now began to lose some elevation.  That didn’t last long.  It was soon gaining the elevation back.  Lupe reached a high spot on the road as it turned W.  The road continued W, but it was clear it was about to lose serious elevation in that direction.

About this time, the rain stopped.  Suddenly the sky was getting brighter again.  SPHP stopped to check the maps.  The little green hill on the N side of the road had to be the summit of Bald Hills.  Lupe was practically there!

The remains of a campfire were on the N side of the road, too.  Unfortunately, trash was scattered all around it.  While SPHP collected trash, Lupe sniffed around, encouraged by the rapidly clearing sky.

Lupe just S of the summit of Bald Hills. The top was just up this little green hill. Photo looks N.
Lupe just S of the summit of Bald Hills. The top was just up this little green hill. Photo looks N.
A rather damp Lupe among pretty yellow flowers S of the summit of Bald Hills.
A rather damp Lupe among pretty yellow flowers S of the summit of Bald Hills.

When the trash was all gathered up, Lupe and SPHP climbed the little green hill to the summit.  The summit area was a bit surprising.  It was a big flat open field, completely surrounded by pine trees.

Trees killed by pine bark beetles were still standing along the W edge of the meadow.  When they eventually fall over, the view will improve dramatically.  As it was, Lupe and SPHP could only get glimpses of Mount Pisgah (6,380 ft.) five miles away in Wyoming.

Lupe in the big flat meadow at the summit of Bald Hills. Photo looks W. The sky is beginning to clear!
Lupe in the big flat meadow at the summit of Bald Hills. Photo looks W. The sky is beginning to clear!
Looking W.
Looking W.
Lupe starting to dry out in the sunshine. Photo looks NE.
Lupe starting to dry out in the sunshine. Photo looks NE.

The meadow on Bald Hills was quite pretty and full of little flowers.  It was kind of a shame there wasn’t a more open view anywhere, but that’s the way it was.  As Lupe and SPHP ambled around the field, the last of the storm clouds drifted away to the E, and the sun began to shine.

Lupe and SPHP left the summit taking what was supposed to be a shortcut back to No. 113 by heading directly E.  There proved to be a fair amount of deadfall timber to deal with in the forest.  While Lupe might have saved some distance, it was debatable how much time was really saved.

Once on No. 113 again, Lupe and SPHP followed it back E.  Where dark clouds, rain and fog had prevailed only a short time ago, now a sunny, fresh, bright green Dingo Paradise existed.  Lupe’s spirits soared!  She dashed through the damp woods sniffing excitedly at every tree and bush.  Lupe came to a series of small pools scooped out along the road.  She made frequent use of them.

One of several pools of rainwater along USFS Road No. 113. The day was warming up rapidly. Lupe made frequent quick stops at the pools for refreshing drinks.
One of several pools of rainwater along USFS Road No. 113. The day was warming up rapidly. Lupe made frequent quick stops at the pools for refreshing drinks.

When Lupe reached the green gate across No. 113 again, she turned N leaving the road.  Lupe and SPHP went down off the ridge into the small valley, this time passing above (E of) the higher pond.  Lupe returned to No. 117.5J.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were back up on Peak 6888 again.

Lupe took a Taste of the Wild break while resting under a fallen tree trunk.  SPHP sat on the tree trunk eating an apple and looking at the maps.  After the break, Lupe and SPHP once again wandered around on Peak 6888, still looking for an obvious high point, but with the same negative results.  Lupe chose a bright green meadow for her 2nd Peak 6888 summit shot of the day.

Lupe near the upper pond on her way back to Peak 6888. This area is a little W of the Beaver Creek Cow Camp on the USFS map.
Lupe near the upper pond on her way back to Peak 6888. This area is a little W of the Beaver Creek Cow Camp on the USFS map.
Lupe takes a Taste of the Wild break while resting under a fallen tree on Peak 6888.
Lupe takes a Taste of the Wild break while resting under a fallen tree on Peak 6888.
Lupe chose this bright green meadow to commemorate her 2nd ascent of Peak 6888 of the day. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe chose this bright green meadow to commemorate her 2nd ascent of Peak 6888 of the day. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP had noticed while looking at the maps that 0.33 mile to the NE of Peak 6888 there was a small area enclosed by a 6,900 foot contour line.  Since that was somewhat higher ground, Lupe and SPHP crossed over No. 117.5J to go check it out.

NE of No. 117.5J, Lupe did seem to gain a little elevation, but it didn’t amount to much.  Lupe still found no obvious high point.  There weren’t any big views anywhere over here either, just more forest.  Lupe and SPHP went W back to Bear Canyon Road and turned N.  By 1:48 PM (65°F), Lupe was back at the G6.

Lupe’s next two peakbagging goals were both located 10 miles to the NNW.  Lupe and SPHP jumped in the G6, and enjoyed a very scenic drive through gorgeous Black Hills high country near the Wyoming border.  The last part of the drive was along another USFS Road No. 109.  (Not the No. 109 that leads to Parmlee Canyon.)  This No. 109 led N out of the Beaver Creek valley.  It eventually turned NW toward the Wyoming border.

SPHP was really hoping there would be some kind of a sign and a fence at the border.  Lupe’s third peakbagging goal of the day was the Weston County, Wyoming High Point (6,620 ft.).  The high point is located about 0.375 mile S of where No. 109 reaches the Wyoming border.  The whole key to finding the Weston County High Point was knowing where the border was.

The luck of the Dingo prevailed!  There was a Wyoming sign at the border.  There was also a cattle guard, a fence, and a convenient level place to park on the South Dakota side (2:28 PM, 57°F).  Lupe and SPHP left the G6, crossed the cattle guard into Wyoming, and headed S along the border fence.

The entire area was forested and rolling, but without significant elevation changes.  Logging trails ran this way and that through the woods.  When it seemed easier, Lupe and SPHP just followed the logging trails, but never got very far from the border fence.  Pretty soon, Lupe came to two high points right along the state line.  One of them had to be the Weston County High Point.

The two high points were close enough to each other so it was possible to see both at the same time.  However, they were so similar in elevation, SPHP wasn’t certain which was truly the highest point.  The first one Lupe came to, the one to the N, seemed like it was highest, but it was hard to tell for sure.  Naturally, Lupe visited both high points.

Lupe at the N candidate for the Weston County, WY high point. She is sitting just past the border fence on the South Dakota side of the border. SPHP believes this is the true high point, but there was another possible candidate in view a short distance to the S. Photo looks E.
Lupe at the N candidate for the Weston County, WY high point. She is sitting just past the border fence on the South Dakota side of the border. SPHP believes this is the true high point, but there was another possible candidate in view a short distance to the S. Photo looks E.

From the N high point, a small, nearly level ridge extended W about 100 feet into Wyoming.  It was possible the Weston County High Point was actually somewhere along this ridge instead of right on the border with South Dakota.  Lupe explored the W ridge out to where it ended at 10 foot high limestone outcroppings.  SPHP was of the opinion the actual high point was back at the WY/SD border, rather than anywhere along the ridge.

Lupe seemed to enjoy looking for the Weston County High Point. Here she is looking happy while exploring the small ridge W of the border and the N high point candidate.
Lupe seemed to enjoy looking for the Weston County High Point. Here she is looking happy while exploring the small ridge W of the border and the N high point candidate.
Although Lupe explored this entire ridge W of the N candidate on the WY/SD border for Weston County, WY High Point, SPHP didn't believe the actual high point was anywhere out on this ridge. To SPHP, the land seemed marginally higher right at the border. Lupe never did really come out and say what she thought.
Although Lupe explored this entire ridge W of the N candidate on the WY/SD border for Weston County, WY High Point, SPHP didn’t believe the actual high point was anywhere out on this ridge. To SPHP, the land seemed marginally higher right at the border. Lupe never did really come out and say what she thought.
The W end of the ridge ended at these 10 foot high limestone outcroppings. Photo looks SE.
The W end of the ridge ended at these 10 foot high limestone outcroppings. Photo looks SE.

After exploring the W ridge, Lupe and SPHP went over to the S high point candidate along the Wyoming/South Dakota border.  A small area on the Wyoming side near the S high point had been clear cut.  There were slash piles laying all around.  The S high point was a limestone outcropping right at the border.  There wasn’t any ridge extending out to the W here.  The ground went downhill immediately W of the high point.

Lupe at the S candidate along the WY/SD border for Weston County, WY High Point. Photo looks S.
Lupe at the S candidate along the WY/SD border for Weston County, WY High Point. Photo looks S.

Wherever the actual Weston County High Point truly was, Lupe had now been there, having explored both possible candidates, plus the W ridge.  The forest blocked any views, so there was no reason to linger.  A short distance up a little hill to the E just inside the South Dakota border was Lupe’s fourth peakbagging goal of the day, Peak 6645.

Why Peak 6645 is on Peakbagger.com’s official list of Black Hills 6500-foot Peaks is completely beyond SPHP.  There are numerous other higher points close at hand that are not on the official list.  A little over 0.1 mile to the NE is High Point 6651, a mile to the SE is High Point 6807, and a little farther E is High Point 6906.  The topo map shows many other examples of higher points close at hand, too.  Nevertheless, Peak 6645 is on the official list and the others aren’t.

Since Peak 6645 was on the official Black Hills 6500-foot Peaks list, Lupe was going to visit it.  At least it had the great virtue of being located very conveniently close to the Weston County, WY High Point.  Lupe and SPHP made the short trek up the hill.  Between the trees was a hint of a view off to the WSW, but that was all.  Nevertheless, Lupe seemed completely happy with Peak 6645.

One cheerful Carolina Dog on Peak 6645! Photo looks WSW at a little meadow. Lupe is about 30 feet W of the actual highest point on the hill, but it was only 4 or 5 feet higher than where she is here.
One cheerful Carolina Dog on Peak 6645! Photo looks WSW at a little meadow. Lupe is about 30 feet W of the actual highest point on the hill, but it was only 4 or 5 feet higher than where she is here.

Lupe on Peak 6645, 6-1-14

Lupe on the very highest part of Peak 6645. Photo looks NE.
Lupe on the very highest part of Peak 6645. Photo looks NE.

The actual summit of Peak 6645 was an otherwise unremarkable 5 foot high mound in the woods.  Lupe sniffed around for a couple of minutes, but even she didn’t find anything particularly fascinating.  While Lupe was sniffing around, clouds were moving in again.  Thunder started rumbling off to the NW.  Lupe and SPHP hurried NE on to High Point 6651.

From High Point 6651, Lupe was able to see USFS Road No. 109 just below to the NE.  Instead of going right on down to the road, though, Lupe and SPHP turned NW, following the ridge.  The ridge soon played out, and sloped on down to No. 109 closer to the G6.  A quick 0.25 mile road trek, and Lupe was back at the G6 (3:17 PM, 57°F).

Hwy 85 near Buckhorn was only a couple of miles NW on USFS Road No. 809 (the road number changes from No. 109 at the Wyoming border), but it was already raining again by the time Lupe reached the highway.  Another  thunderstorm was passing through.  SPHP stopped in at the Buckhorn Bar & Grill to grab a hamburger.  Lupe stayed in the G6, entertained by barking at black cows across the road.

Lupe sniffs around outside the Buckhorn, WY Bar & Grill.
Lupe sniffs around outside the Buckhorn, WY Bar & Grill.

The owner and the cook/waitress were the only people in the Buckhorn Bar & Grill.  They were both friendly, and after a reasonable delay produced a pathetic-looking over-priced hamburger, which didn’t even come with fries or chips.  SPHP took the sad little thing out to the G6 to share it with Lupe while waiting for the rain to stop.  Lupe’s opinion of the hamburger was far different from SPHP’s.  She greeted it with enormous enthusiasm, and would have eagerly consumed far more than her fair share, if SPHP had permitted.

The hamburger was gone in a flash.  Lupe retired to the back seat of the G6 for a nap, while the rain continued outside.  SPHP munched an apple and looked at the maps.  Lupe’s 5th and final peakbagging goal for the day was Laird Peak (6,906 ft.), which was only 6 or 7 miles to the NE, and less than a mile from Hwy 85.  Climbing Laird Peak wouldn’t take long.  Gradually a new plan came to mind.  Lupe could go on into Wyoming to Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.), a more isolated and interesting peak!

However, the rain went on and on.  Thunder rumbled repeatedly from very dark clouds overhead.  Lupe snoozed contentedly full of hamburger.  The windows of the G6 fogged up.  SPHP finally decided that if the storm didn’t end by 6 PM, Lupe would have to forget about Inyan Kara.

At 5:30 PM, a tiny white spot appeared in the clouds to the NW.  For a few minutes, the white spot grew.  A little patch of blue appeared.  Maybe the storm was about over?  SPHP started the G6 and drove SW on Highway 85.  Within a few miles, it was clear that the storm was passing.  By the time Lupe reached Four Corners, the rain had stopped.  Growing patches of blue sky were off to the W.  SPHP turned NW on Hwy 585.

The drive toward Inyan Kara was gorgeous.  The sun broke through the clouds to shine on the mountains and high plains, all fresh and green from the rain.  Inyan Kara was still shrouded by dark clouds, but they were likely to dissipate soon.  SPHP initially missed the turn W on County Road No. 198, but came back to it.

A lot of rain had fallen.  County Road No. 198 was muddy.  Despite the mud, the G6 made it 1.5 miles W of the highway to an intersection.  SPHP took the sharp turn N and drove down a hill.  From the G6, Lupe barked at cows grazing in the green fields.  The road turned W again at some corrals shortly before disappearing beneath an enormous puddle.  Beyond the puddle, SPHP could see deep muddy ruts in the road.

No way the G6 would get through this!  SPHP parked near the corrals.  Lupe and SPHP began a march W around the huge puddle, and then along the mucky road.

Inyan Kara is dead ahead! Lupe is on the muddy access road, which goes to two private ranches. Photo looks W.
Inyan Kara is dead ahead! Lupe is on the muddy access road, which goes to two private ranches. Photo looks W.

It was a longer march that it looked like at first.  Even where the road looked good, it was very soft.  It was a beautiful evening, though.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the trek, despite the mud.  When Lupe finally got close to Inyan Kara, she reached a fork in the road.  To the W were some buildings and a “No Trespassing” sign.  Lupe and SPHP tried the other fork going NNW down a hill first.

Lupe hadn’t gone very far, when she came to a sign saying the county road ended here.  It also said “No Trespassing without Owner’s Permission”.  A yellow house was in view not much farther down the road.  Lupe and SPHP continued on to beg the owner’s permission to cross the private ranch to Inyan Kara.

A bluish dog about Lupe’s size started barking as Lupe and SPHP got close to the fenced yard around the house.  The bluish dog was all excited.  He whined and wanted to play with Lupe.  SPHP petted him, but Lupe just growled.  No one came out of the house.  SPHP yelled a few helloes, but there was no response.  Too bad, this was the best place to gain access to Inyan Kara.

Lupe and SPHP left the disappointed bluish dog behind to go back and try the W fork of the road.  The results were much the same.  Two dogs were at the house at the end of that road, but again no people.  A fat little Corgi stayed up on a deck and barked.  A white and black dog barked as it came running up to meet Lupe.  As soon as it got close enough, the white and black dog promptly peed on SPHP’s boot.  Lupe growled again, this time with more justification.

Sigh.  That was it.  No one was around at either place to grant permission to access Inyan Kara.  So much for that idea.  Lupe and SPHP headed back on the muddy road toward the G6.  It was still a beautiful trek.

Lupe E of Inyan Kara on her way back to the G6. Looking N from the county road.
Lupe E of Inyan Kara on her way back to the G6. Looking N from the county road.
Looking SW.
Looking SW.

As Lupe and SPHP neared the corrals where the G6 was parked, there was a bit of a surprise.  A herd of 30 or 40 black cows was congregated on the road near the G6.  Lupe would have to go right past them.  SPHP put Lupe on the leash.  Lupe tried to be good, but it was just too much temptation.  When she got very close to the cows, she started barking.  She felt amazingly powerful and ferocious when the whole herd stampeded away.

Well, not quite the whole herd.  One cow was unfazed by Lupe.  When Lupe and SPHP went right on by, the bold cow decided to follow.  In fact, the bold cow had apparently decided that SPHP must have something good to eat.  It started trotting along eager to partake of whatever delicious repast SPHP had stuffed in the backpack.  The cow completely ignored Lupe, who was somewhat startled by the notion that barking at this cow made it want to come toward her instead of running away.  Up close, it was an awful lot bigger than the noisy Carolina Dog!

Even more startling, was the reaction of the rest of the herd.  When the other cows saw that the bold cow was not being devoured by an American Dingo, but was actually anticipating a delicious treat from SPHP, they suddenly decided they were about to miss out on something good.  The whole herd came thundering back, anxious to partake in whatever happy event was about to unfold.

SPHP wasn’t too keen on being crushed by a herd of overly enthusiastic hungry cattle.  Lupe and SPHP made a run for the G6, barely getting inside before being completely surrounded.  Whew!  Back inside the safety of the G6, Lupe regained her confidence and resumed barking furiously at the herd pressing in on every side.  By now, though, the cows were totally unimpressed.  They went back to munching grass, feeling a bit put out.

Slowly and cautiously, SPHP eased the G6 through the herd, stopping every few seconds to wait for another opening a little farther forward.  Lupe continued having her fruitless conniption fit the whole time.  Nearly all the cows continued totally ignoring her.  After a few minutes, the G6 broke free of the herd.  Lupe and SPHP escaped back to the highway.

The Inyan Kara jaunt had been a failure.  There was still time, though, to return to the original plan.  Lupe and SPHP headed for Laird Peak.  A mile W of O’Neil Pass on Hwy 85, SPHP turned N on USFS Road No. 106.  Less than a mile from the highway there was a big open area on the E side of No. 106, shortly before reaching a junction with Willow Springs Road coming in from the W.  SPHP parked the G6 in the open area (8:04 PM, 47°F).

Lupe and SPHP started out going E up a little valley along a grassy road.  Lupe passed a small stock pond on the S side of the road, and soon came to a water tank.  Water was overflowing the tank, creating a small muddy stream that ran down to the stock pond.  One of SPHP’s maps showed Tom Spring in this location.

Beyond Tom Spring, the grassy road disappeared for a stretch.  Lupe soon found it again, now angling NE up into the trees.  The road climbed until it reached a flat area where a number of roads converged.  Lupe was already quite high here.  Despite the forest, it was possible to get a glimpse over the other side of the mountain toward the SE.

At the intersection, Lupe took a good road N until it passed a fence.  She then left the road to follow the fence E toward a 50 foot rise where SPHP expected to find the summit of Laird Peak.  Near the top, Lupe and SPHP caught a last look at the fiery sun about to drop below the horizon.

Sunset on Laird Peak.
Sunset on Laird Peak.

The sun sank below the horizon within minutes, but Lupe had no problem finding the survey marker and benchmark at the summit of Laird Peak to complete her 5th and final peakbagging success of the day.

The Laird Peak survey marker and benchmark.
The Laird Peak survey marker and benchmark.

Lupe reached the G6 again at 9:00 PM on the dot (47°F).  She’d had quite a big day in the NW Black Hills.  Four mountains climbed for the first time, plus a Wyoming county highpoint reached!  Perhaps the most memorable mountain, though, was Inyan Kara, the one she didn’t get to climb!

Lupe on Laird Peak at dusk.
Lupe on Laird Peak at dusk.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                      Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD & WY Expedition No. 205 – Balm of Gilead Gulch & Cement Ridge (5-20-17)

Start, 11:04 AM, 33°F, intersection of USFS Roads No. 189, 189.4A & 631.2C about 0.33 mile WSW of Crooks Tower

This was supposed to be an expedition to celebrate the rapid approach of a glorious new summer!  Lupe would explore mysteriously named Balm of Gilead Gulch before continuing on to Cement Ridge.  There, beneath cotton ball clouds sailing a crystal blue sea, the Carolina Dog would sniff colorful wildflowers swaying in warm breezes.  She would gaze upon panoramic views of Inyan Kara, the Bear Lodge Mountains, and far into eastern Wyoming.

The scene would both excite the imagination and serve as a call to action!  Nearly 8.5 months after Lupe’s return from her grand Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska, the time for new Dingo adventures beyond the Black Hills was almost here!

Hah!  Dream on.  Even before leaving home, SPHP knew the forecast didn’t include much in the way of warm breezes.

A week ago on Expedition No. 204, Lupe had visited Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.), one of the highest points in the Black Hills.  She’d made a day of it coming up from Merow Spring and Clayton Pond, and subsequently continuing on to Peak 6820.  Now, driving W on South Rapid Creek Road (USFS Road No. 231), it occurred to SPHP that Loop was very close to Crooks Tower again.  Why not go back for a good look at how much conditions had changed?

It wasn’t necessary to spend a whole day on foot and paw to get to Crooks Tower.  In fact, a 2 mile detour S on USFS Road No. 189 would bring Lupe to a point only 0.33 mile WSW of the summit.  Let’s do it!  SPHP made the turn.  Five minutes later, Lupe sprang out of the G6 into a world where the mood was better suited to Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer than 4th of July fireworks.

Sooooo, let me get this straight. We’re here to celebrate the imminent approach of summer, right? Did you get a really big discount for booking early SPHP, or what? At the W end of USFS Road No. 189.4A. Photo looks SSE.

Although the forecast called for 0% chance of precipitation, the sky was heavily overcast.   Any more overcast, and Lupe would have been in a fog.  Humidity filled the air.  It felt like it could rain buckets at any time.  Or snow.  At a chilly 33°F, snow seemed equally plausible.  The ground was already white with the stuff.

Lupe concealed her disappointment with summer’s non-arrival well.  In fact, she seemed thrilled and energized by the snow.  She charged through fields and forests as SPHP began a mucky march E along USFS Road No. 189.4A.

USFS Road No. 189.4A leads ENE from the junction with No. 189 & No. 631.2C. About 0.33 mile later, it passes just S of the summit of Crooks Tower. Photo looks E.

About 0.33 mile from the G6, the road passed just S of the summit of Crooks Tower.  Lupe and SPHP left the road to take the short path leading to the top from the SW.  Only a week after her 8th ascent, Lupe was here for the 9th time.

Back on Crooks Tower for the 9th time! Photo looks SE.
On the summit, looking WSW.
Each pine needle was beautifully flocked, but that wouldn’t last long this time of year. The snow already looked like it was starting to melt.
Looking NW from the summit.
Loopster at the highest point. Photo looks N.

Having been here only a week ago, Lupe and SPHP dawdled only a little while on Crooks Tower.  It was fun to be there again, but the plan was still to explore Balm of Gilead Gulch and reach Cement Ridge today.  Lupe returned to the G6 (11:35 AM, 33°F), and SPHP drove onward.

N of Highway 85, a little W of O’Neill Pass, SPHP parked the G6 again (11:53 AM, 39°F) near corrals S of the junction of USFS Roads No. 175 (Willow Springs Road) and No. 106 (Riflepit Canyon Road).  Here Lupe was only 0.67 mile W of Laird Peak (6,906 ft.), another mountain along the way.  SPHP figured she might as well climb it, too, since it was an easy peak and wouldn’t take long.

An unmarked grassy road led E from the parking area up a little valley past Tom Spring.  This area was hundreds of feet lower than Crooks Tower, so there wasn’t nearly as much snow around.  What snow there was in the pines was melting fast.  Snowmelt dripped to the ground in such abundance, Lupe was getting rained on beneath the trees.

In the valley leading E to Tom Spring on the way to Laird Peak. There wasn’t nearly as much snow here as there had been at Crooks Tower. Photo looks S.
Loop had a good time exploring on the way to Laird Peak. Photo looks E.

Tom Spring was a muddy area.  Water poured from a pipe into a circular water trough.  Not too exciting.  Lupe didn’t seem interested.  She pressed on up the valley.  The road faded somewhat beyond Tom Spring, but could still be followed.

Upon reaching a ridgeline where several better dirt roads intersected, Lupe took a road going N.  She stayed on it for only 100 feet or so to get past a fence running E/W.  She then turned E following the N side of the fence line.  Laird Peak’s summit was only a couple hundred yards ahead.  The summit appeared only as a small hill in the forest.

Approaching the summit of Laird Peak from the W. The summit appears to be just another small hill in the forest. Photo looks E.

Lupe quickly reached the top.  The summit area was easily the size of a modest yard in town and quite flat.  Deadfall timber lay scattered about the perimeter of a small clearing.  A sign marking the location of the survey benchmark was in sight near the N edge of the clearing.

Lupe at the survey benchmark on Laird Peak (6,906 ft.). A little less than half of the flat summit area is in view. Photo looks N.
This was Lupe’s 3rd ascent of Laird Peak. Other than having to deal with a little deadfall timber, it’s a quick easy climb from the W via Tom Spring. Photo looks N.
The Laird Peak survey benchmark.

Pine bark beetles had damaged the surrounding forest enough to provide tree-broken glimpses of distant views in various directions, but only enough to tantalize.  Lupe couldn’t really see much from here other than the immediate area.  With no clear views to contemplate, the American Dingo was soon ready to go.

Lupe ready to head back down the W slope. Photo looks WNW.

The sky was still overcast, but not as darkly as before.  Now and then a small patch of blue sky appeared.  SPHP kept expecting the clouds to burn off, but they didn’t.  Instead the clouds kept closing up the gaps, and the sunshine would disappear.  Nothing had really changed by the time Lupe reached the G6 again (12:45 PM).

A winding drive NW down Grand Canyon ensued.  USFS Road No. 175 turned to No. 875 at the Wyoming border.  By the time SPHP parked the G6 at the intersection of No. 875 & No. 804, it was already 1:23 PM (47°F).  If Lupe was going to explore Balm of Gilead Gulch and still have time to reach Cement Ridge, she had best get on with it.  The Carolina Dog and SPHP took off heading E up Rattlesnake Canyon on No. 804.

Dandelions prospered along No. 804 on the way up Rattlesnake Canyon. Nuisances in yards, dandelions are amazingly resilient plants.

The stroll up Rattlesnake Canyon was easy.  A couple of miles E of the G6, SPHP started looking for a R (S) turn on USFS Road No. 804.1A which would take Lupe up into Balm of Gilead Gulch.  A road going S up a hill did appear.  There weren’t any signs at the turn, but a forest service gate was in view a little way up the hill.

Was this No. 804.1A?  It didn’t seem quite right.  The topo map showed a 4WD trail heading S up a smaller valley about 0.5 mile before (W of) the turn to Balm of Gilead Gulch, and this was the first side road Lupe had come to.  SPHP almost led Lupe past this road, but decided she might as well check out the forest service gate for any clues first.

Good thing!  Nearing the gate, Lupe found a marker showing this was USFS Road No. 804.1A.

Nearing the forest service gate, Lupe found a marker showing this was USFS Road No. 804.1A after all. She was bound for Balm of Gilead Gulch! Photo looks S.

So this was it!  Lupe was bound for Balm of Gilead Gulch!  Except for one thing that raised doubts again.  As the Carolina Dog trotted past the gate, SPHP noticed large white letters on the round metal swivel housing on the L.  The letters read OLDB 05.  What did that mean?  SPHP was suspicious.

It might mean that this road had been renumbered.  USFS Road No. 805 went up Wagon Canyon 1.5 miles to the S.  Was this possibly a connecting spur, formerly known as No. 805.B?  Seemed like a possibility, but who knew?  May as well try it.  After all, the official sign did say this was No. 804.1A, which was supposed to be the road into Balm of Gilead Gulch.

Lupe continued up No. 804.1A.  The road turned SE and led up a small forested valley.  The day had warmed up some, and Lupe was still considerably lower here than she had been at either Crooks Tower or Laird Peak, so she didn’t find any snow in this area.  There had been some, though.  The road was damp, nearly muddy.

Although no tire tracks were to be seen, an amazing number of animal tracks crisscrossed the soft road.  It wasn’t long before Lupe started seeing wildlife – whitetail deer and Lupe’s giant deers – the elk.

Lupe saw many whitetail deer and a number of her giant deers (elk), too, as she traveled up USFS Road No. 804.1A.

It was fun being where there were so many animals in the forest, and sort of easy to see why they were here.  No tire tracks on the road at all meant people seldom come here.  The forest was full of hidden grassy glens.  This was a good place to hide and hang out.

Lupe at a grassy glen along USFS Road No. 804.1A. There seemed to be plenty more such glens hidden back in the forest, making this area popular with deer and elk.

Lupe gained elevation steadily for perhaps a mile before the road leveled out.  Here, the main road turned SW and started going downhill.  A fainter road curved ESE.  Lupe needed to go E, so she took the fainter road.  When she wanted to stop for a water break 5 or 10 minutes later, SPHP took a look at the maps.

Hmmm.  SPHP was soon convinced that Lupe hadn’t been traveling through Balm of Gilead Gulch at all.  Where the main road had turned SW, it almost had to be headed for Kirley Gulch on its way down to Wagon Canyon.  Apparently the road numbers really had been changed.  The old No. 804.1A leading into Balm of Gilead Gulch that Lupe had been looking for was no more.  The new No. 804.1A actually was a road connecting No. 804 in Rattlesnake Canyon and No. 805 in Wagon Canyon.

The inescapable conclusion was that Balm of Gilead Gulch was 0.5 mile N or NE of where Lupe was now.  She could have gone through the forest looking for it, but that would have meant losing elevation she’d already gained.  Furthermore, she would only get to travel through part of the gulch.  Instead of doing that, SPHP decided Lupe might just as well continue on to Cement Ridge.  She could hit Balm of Gilead Gulch on the way back.

Break done, Lupe roamed happily in the forest along a series of remote USFS roads.  She traveled E or SE, and once in a while NE.  She was generally still gaining elevation, but at a slow rate.  Sometimes there were markers at the road junctions, but even when there were, usually only one road was marked.  It wasn’t always clear which road the marker was meant for.

This was pretty high country, but due to the forest, Lupe seldom had any distant views.  Some ridges did eventually appear off to the S and SW.  Loop was already nearly as high as they were.

Roaming the back roads on the way to Cement Ridge. Photo looks E.
The light green of the newly emerging aspen leaves contrasted nicely with the dark green of the Ponderosa Pines. Lupe loves wandering back roads like this one. Photo looks ESE.
This was a 3 way intersection (roads also went to the L & R) where Lupe found a marker for USFS Road No. 805.3J, but which road it was meant for was impossible to tell. She had reached this point coming up the road seen on the R. Photo looks W.

On her explorations, Lupe either traveled along or passed by USFS Roads No. 805.3J, 805.3G, and 805.3A.  About two miles E of where she’d left No. 804.1A, she came down a side road marked No. 105.1B to arrive at the first major gravel road she’d seen since leaving No. 804 down in Rattlesnake Canyon.

A check of the maps revealed that Loop was now only 0.25 mile S of No. 105’s junction with No. 804.  Cement Ridge (6,674 ft.) was only 1.5 miles NNW beyond the intersection.  Before setting out again, Lupe was ready for more water and Taste of the Wild.  SPHP ate the only apple, which was supposed to have been saved for Cement Ridge, but, oh well.

All tanked up again, Lupe set off along No. 105 for Cement Ridge.  Upon reaching the junction with No. 804, she followed No. 804 NNW a good 0.5 mile to its high point, then plunged into the forest.  The American Dingo loves being off road most of all, so she had a grand time.  Gradually things got steeper, but it was never more than a straightforward trudge up a hill.

When Lupe reached the ridgeline along the N face, she turned W and followed the ridge a short distance to a pathetic little limestone cairn at the high point.  This was it, the true summit of Cement Ridge!

Lupe next to the pathetic little limestone cairn at the true summit of Cement Ridge. Photo looks WNW.
Crow Peak is seen faintly on the horizon beyond Lupe. The sky was still cloudy and rather hazy. Loop found a small amount of snow remaining here on Cement Ridge, but only close to the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Virtually no one from the Black Hills region would recognize this place where Lupe was now as the summit of Cement Ridge.  This might be the true summit according to the topo maps, but only a handful of peakbagging Dingoes would even be aware of its existence.  Cement Ridge is well known locally as one of the Black Hills’ premier viewpoints, but what everyone around here is referring to are the views from the Cement Ridge fire lookout tower.

The fire lookout tower is located on a barren highpoint near the NW end of Cement Ridge over a mile from the true summit.  According to the topo map, the lookout tower is 27 feet lower than the true summit.  Nevertheless, the views from the tower are far superior to those available from the heavily forested true summit.

Lupe could see the lookout tower from the true summit.  Perhaps it was only an illusion, but it actually looked higher to SPHP.

The Cement Ridge fire lookout tower (L) was visible from the cairn where the true summit is supposed to be. SPHP thought the lookout tower actually appeared higher, but perhaps its an illusion. Lupe offered no opinion. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had no comment on which point she thought might be highest, the lookout tower or this pathetic little cairn.  She was content to let surveyors battle that one out.  However, when SPHP asked if she wanted to go see the fabulous views at the tower, she was all for that!

A 10 minute trek N down through an aspen forest brought Lupe to a saddle where USFS Road No. 850 coming up from the W turns N.  Loop followed the road all the way to the lookout tower.  Not a soul was around.

Lupe reaches the Cement Ridge Lookout Tower. Photo looks E.
This survey benchmark is located at the base of the flag pole NW of the lookout tower.
The Cement Ridge fire lookout tower in eastern Wyoming is only 1 mile W of the South Dakota border. The true summit is even closer to South Dakota, only 0.5 mile away.

Instead of cotton ball clouds sailing a crystal blue sky, Lupe saw scattered tiny patches of blue lost in a gray-white ocean.  She felt no warm breezes.  There were wildflowers to sniff, but they tossed about tormented by a chilly N breeze.  The views were wonderful, but felt remote and forlorn, not bright and inspiring.

Looking SE along the length of Cement Ridge. The access road is seen below. The true summit (R) is the high point in the distance appearing almost straight up from Lupe’s head.
Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) (R) from Cement Ridge. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
George Armstrong Custer reached the summit of Inyan Kara on July 23, 1874, less than 2 years before his death in the Battle of the Little Bighorn (Custer’s Last Stand) on June 25-26, 1876 in Montana. Lupe reached the summit on November 9, 2014, more than 140 years after Custer.
Crow Peak (5,787 ft.) (R) is the most prominent peak W of Spearfish, SD. Photo looks NNE.
Looking NW toward the Bear Lodge Mountains. Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) is the high point where another fire tower exists.

With sweeping views in nearly all directions, Lupe saw a great many Black Hills peaks she had been to before.  The wind was coldest and strongest, though, up near the fire tower.  Lupe and SPHP retreated a bit down the W slope to an old picnic table.  Conditions were only slightly better here, and only the views to the W could still be seen, but they were grand.

Looper and SPHP stayed at the lower picnic table soaking it all in.

Loopster up on the old picnic table. Inyan Kara is on the horizon to her R. Photo looks SW.
Warren Peaks again. Lupe made a number of expeditions to peaks in the Bear Lodge Mountains in the fall of 2016. Photo looks NW.
Looking E back toward the lookout tower from the lower picnic table. Two newer picnic tables were located up close to the tower.

Cement Ridge would be a great place to see the sunset, but Lupe was here too early for that.  The sun wouldn’t set for another couple of hours.  Even if she waited, the sky was so overcast, it wasn’t likely she would see much.  Besides, if she was ever going to see Balm of Gilead Gulch, she needed to get going.

Puppy ho!  After a little rest curled up beneath the old picnic table, Lupe set out for Balm of Gilead Gulch again.  The first part of the journey took her SE back along the length of Cement Ridge.  This time, instead of following the access road, she stayed up on the highest parts of the ridge where she could see the terrific views to the E.

A glance back at the Cement Ridge fire lookout tower. Photo looks NW.
Tiny wildflowers grew in profusion. These pretty little purple/pink flowers were SPHP’s favorites.
A final look back. Photo looks WNW.

On her way, since she had to pass so close to it again, Lupe returned to Cement Ridge’s true summit.

Approaching the true summit again, this time from the N. Photo looks S.
Looper returns to the true summit. She was now in a hurry to get to Balm of Gilead Gulch, so this time she didn’t dilly dally here more than a few minutes. Photo looks WNW.

Since Looper was now in a hurry to get to Balm of Gilead Gulch before the sun set, she stayed only a couple of minutes at the summit before pressing on to the S.  She came across a dirt road going SSE, which was faster for SPHP than traveling through the forest.

Going down this road, suddenly sunshine was filtering through the trees.  The sky, which had been 90%+ overcast all day long, was almost completely clear!  SPHP was astonished at how fast this transformation had taken place.  Only a few clouds remained.  The rest hadn’t floated on by, they had simply dissipated into thin air.

The sun was noticeably lower now, but would still be up for a while.  The evening light brought out even more wildlife.  Lupe saw more whitetails and giant deers.

Elk S of Cement Ridge. Photo looks SSE.

The road eventually reached USFS Road No. 105, this time a little E of its junction with No. 804.  A marker showed Lupe had been coming down USFS Road No. 105.1A.

Lupe at the marker for USFS Road No. 105.1a where it reaches No. 105. Lupe had just followed No. 105.1A SSE nearly all the way down from Cement Ridge’s true summit. Photo looks NNW.

A short trek to the W on No. 105 brought Lupe to the junction with No. 804 again.  This time she turned S on No. 105, following it back to the turn W onto No. 105.1B.

Earlier in the day, before ever reaching No. 105 on her way to Cement Ridge, Lupe had reached a broad gentle saddle where there was a 4-way intersection.  This was probably where she’d gotten on No. 105.1B as she continued E at the time.  However, SPHP had seen that the road going NW from there sloped gradually into a wide valley.  That wide valley was likely the upper end of Balm of Gilead Gulch.

With the sun getting ever lower, Lupe and SPHP hurried back along No. 105.1B, hoping to reach the broad saddle before the sun was down.  Even hurrying along, it was hard not to appreciate the beauty of the sunlight filtered by the trees.  What a wonderful evening trek!  Lupe was enthusiastic.  She raced through the forest exploring everything.

Sunlight filters through the forest nearing Balm of Gilead Gulch.

Lupe did make it to the broad saddle before the sun was down.  She turned NW on the road leading through the wide valley.  She followed the road a little way, but left it to follow a single track trail W down into Balm of Gilead Gulch.

Lupe reaches the beautiful broad valley at the upper end of Balm of Gilead Gulch. The sun wouldn’t be up much longer. Photo looks WNW.
On the single track trail after leaving the road.

Lupe traveled the entire length of Balm of Gilead Gulch, as sunlight left the valley floor to linger on the forested hillsides.  The pale golden light of day retreated to the uppermost treetops, and was lost.  Lupe saw deer.  She saw elk.  A hawk screeched and flew away.  Lower down where the valley narrowed, the Carolina Dog came to a tiny stream.

It was all beautiful, but though she sniffed and looked everywhere she could, the Carolina Dog never found it.  If a different road to a different place hadn’t been relabeled as USFS Road No. 804.1A, she would have been here much earlier and had more time.  Maybe, maybe then, she would have found it.  As it was, twilight faded, darkness descended, stars glittered in the night sky.

But Lupe never did find the fabled Balm of Gilead.  (End 9:32 PM, 32°F)

 

“Prophet! said I, “thing of evil! – prophet still, if bird or devil! –

Whether Tempter sent, or whether tempest tossed thee here ashore,

Desolate yet all undaunted, on this desert land enchanted –

On this home by Horror haunted – tell me truly, I implore –

Is there – is there balm in Gilead? – tell me, tell me, I implore!”

Quoth the Raven “Nevermore.”

from The Raven, Edgar Allen Poe

In Balm of Gilead Gulch

Note: The Cement Ridge fire lookout tower is accessible by road from the W or SE by following USFS Road No. 804 to No. 850.  The true summit is the hill immediately S of where No. 850 reaches a saddle on the ridgeline, and turns N to continue on to the lookout.  Another route exists from the E on USFS Road No. 103 to this same point, but requires a high clearance vehicle.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out her Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!