Dingo Vacations – Page 64 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mystic Lake & Saddleback Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-3-20)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-2-20, early afternoon, Gillette, Wyoming –

Well, phooey! This has been a complete waste of time. C’mon, Loop, let’s get out of here!

Disappointing, but on to bigger and better things, SPHP!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!

SPHP turned onto I-90, and the Carolina Dog was soon racing W again in the air-conditioned comfort of the G6, putting behind her more than 2 hours of futile searching for the owners of Antelope Butte (5,073 ft.). Antelope Butte wasn’t much as far as mountains go, just a little hill. Lupe could have climbed it in nothing flat.

Antelope Butte did have one claim to fame. It was one of only 19 high points in the mountainous state of Wyoming with more than 25 miles of isolation, meaning no other higher ground within a 25 mile radius.

SPHP had actually found 2 of the 4 owners of Antelope Butte, who were all members of the same family. Result? Permission unequivocally denied!

Privately owned **Antelope Butte** several miles S of Gillette, WY as seen from Hwy 59. Photo looks W.

Nothing was going to break the happy mood for long. On to bigger and better things! Lupe’s 4th Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2020 was just getting underway. The G6 hummed NW for hours. It wasn’t until the American Dingo reached Billings, MT that there was any sign of trouble.

Uh-oh! Smoke! Not again! Wyoming had been all sunny and blue. W of Billings, the smoke thickened. Lupe had come such a long way already that she might as well keep going and see what tomorrow would bring. At Columbus, SPHP left I-90, heading S on Hwy 78. S of Absarokee, a R turn on Hwy 419 to Fishtail, then following signs the rest of the way. By dusk, Loopster was at the trailhead.

9-3-20, 7:34 AM, West Rosebud trailhead – As usual first night out on a Dingo Vacation, Lupe had hardly slept a wink. Excited by the prospect of hitting the trail, she’d spent most of the night gazing out the window, watching for any sign of movement. A full moon had risen, illuminating the enormous canyon carved by West Rosebud creek.

Happily, the sky was looking much better this morning. Only a hint of smoke. Lucky! The great moment had arrived. Lupe was on her way.

Signage by the start of West Rosebud trail No. 19.

A short climb and West Rosebud trail No. 19 leveled out. This trail went up the West Rosebud creek canyon, the first major destination being Mystic Lake 3 miles from the trailhead. Lupe was up early enough to have the trail to herself at the moment. She trotted along looking for squirrels, but hearing only the hum of a hydro-electric power plant down in the valley.

Off to a reasonably early start on West Rosebud trail No. 19.

15 minutes from the trailhead, Lupe came to a curved bridge that went over a big white water pipe and a railroad track for a tram. Both started 1,000 feet higher at a surge tank way up on a steep mountainside, and swooped straight down to the hydro-electric plant in the valley. A couple of plaques told the story of this engineering marvel.

Looking up the water pipeline and tram track toward the surge tank. Photo looks W.

The hydro-electric powerhouse waiting below. Photo looks E.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe went on. The West Rosebud trail is very popular, so it was well-worn and a cinch to follow. 15 minutes beyond the curved bridge, the trail reached West Rosebud creek. Scrambling down a short steep bank, Lupe checked it out. The creek had good flow. Crystal clear water tumbled among huge, smoothed boulders in a series of small waterfalls, and gathered in deep pools.

Later in the day, this would be a fabulous spot for a picnic, or even a swim, but it was still very early, so the Carolina Dog kept going.

Heading up the **West Rosebud Creek canyon** after crossing the curved bridge.

The trail followed the gorgeous creek for only a little way before leading to another bridge. This bridge crossed West Rosebud creek. The trail then headed back into the forest. 5 minutes, and Lupe came to a sign for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Crossing the bridge over West Rosebud creek.

Entering the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Beyond the sign, the West Rosebud trail was still flat for a little while, but it soon started to climb. Lupe had already gained some elevation, but now the trail became a much more relentless upward trek. Still easy to only moderately steep. Looper continued to make good progress, but every now and then, SPHP paused for breath.

The trail was going SW toward a huge headwall at the upper end of the canyon. As Lupe got closer, the trail began switchbacking higher. The route became much rockier as the trail climbed above the forest. Views improved, and progress could now be measured relative to the big white water pipeline stretching almost horizontally along the opposite canyon wall.

Here on the SE side of the canyon, tremendous rock spires towered way up along the upper edge.

Glancing back at the big white water pipeline (L) on the opposite side of the canyon. Photo looks NNE.

Spires along the upper SE side of the West Rosebud creek canyon.

The **headwall** (Center) the trail was working toward. Photo looks SW.

The trail and the big white water pipe were both heading for Mystic Lake, but from opposite sides of the canyon. It wasn’t until Lupe was clearly somewhat higher than the water pipe that she started getting close to the headwall Mystic Lake was hidden beyond.

After passing next to several vertical rock walls, the West Rosebud trail finally curved W directly toward the headwall. However, it didn’t go far in this direction before bending back to the SW where it entered a small valley. Climbing gradually through this relatively narrow gap, the trail eventually leveled out.

At the far end of the valley, where the gap was narrowest, a strong, cool breeze blew this way as Lupe approached two large boulders the trail went between. As the American Dingo reached the boulders, she got her first look at Mystic Lake.

Making progress, clearly somewhat above the water pipeline now. Photo looks NNE.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from between the boulders. Photo looks SW.

Set in a huge valley surrounded by forests and massive mountains, the deep blue waters of Mystic Lake made a stunning impression! Facing into the stiff, cool breeze coming off the lake, Lupe looked 120 feet down on a curved dam at the E end. Whitecaps could be seen in the middle of Mystic Lake, its far W end beyond vision. Magnificent!

From here, West Rosebud trail No. 19 curved sharply to the R as it began snaking almost all the way down to lake level. The trail reached Mystic Lake slightly above the rocky S shore, where it then headed W toward a pebbly beach.

**Mystic Lake** from the gap. Photo looks SW.

Starting down the switchbacks leading to the lake. Photo looks N.

By the S shore, very close to the E end. Photo looks W.

After getting past the initial rocky part of the shoreline, Lupe left the trail to venture out onto the pebbly beach. The American Dingo was the first one here this morning and had the whole place to herself, which was pretty cool. From here she could look back and see the trail winding up to the gap she had come through on top of a wall of rock at the E end of the lake.

On the pebbly beach. The gap Lupe had come through to get here is visible as the notch (slightly to the L of Lupe) on top of the rock wall beyond her. Photo looks NE.

Taking a stroll W along the shore, Lupe explored more of Mystic Lake. She didn’t go too far, just to where the shoreline curved toward the S where more of the main body of the lake was in view. At a weathered log, SPHP sat down for a bit to have some fried chicken while watching the waves roll in, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t hungry yet. Instead, she dashed off into the forest when a squirrel chattered nearby.

About as far as Loop went along the shoreline.

Looking NE back toward the dam from SPHP’s fried chicken feast log.

A pleasant half hour was spent along the shore of Mystic Lake, but that was about all SPHP thought Loop could spare. She’d gained a little over 1,000 feet of elevation getting here, but still had another 2,500 feet to go just to get to base camp. Carrying a heavy pack, SPHP was concerned about how difficult that might prove to be.

Somewhat reluctant to desert such a wonderful place so soon, Lupe left fabulous Mystic Lake heading S through the forest looking for the trail, which was some distance from the shore. She quickly ran across it, though, and turning R (SW), continued on her journey.

After 200 or 300 yards, a small clearing appeared ahead. At the same time, Loop reached a junction with a side trail on the L (S). A sign said “Phantom Creek Trail No. 17”. Without going all the way to the clearing, Lupe turned S, following No. 17 as it wound deeper into the forest.

At the start of Phantom Creek Trail No. 17.

Phantom Creek trail No. 17 wasn’t as wide as the West Rosebud trail had been, but at least it started out in good shape. A huge climb was ahead to get to where Lupe was going, and No. 17 soon began steadily gaining elevation. Switchbacks appeared. Great news! They really helped make life easier on the increasingly steep slope Loop was climbing.

15 minutes after setting out on Phantom Creek trail No. 17, Lupe reached the only significant water she would come to. A small rushing stream crossed the trail twice in rapid succession, and was never seen again. After that, any water encountered was a mere trickle, scarcely enough for Loop to get a drink.

Lupe gained several hundred feet of elevation before getting her first view of Mystic Lake from Trail No. 17 at a small break in the forest. She could see all the way to the W end of the lake from here.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

5 minutes later, a couple of partridges, or ptarmigans (?), were on the trail. They hung around just long enough for a photo before flying off.

The switchbacks went on and on. Most were moderately long. Although the trail was never steep, the heavy pack forced SPHP to keep pausing to gasp for breath. Views kept improving. Absolutely spectacular country!

*Wowee! This is quite the trail, isn’t it?* Photo looks S.

Lupe gained many hundreds of feet of elevation on the same enormous slope. After what seemed like a long trek, the switchbacks finally started getting shorter. Higher up the slope, it kept looking like Loop was about to come to a top, but she never did. Instead, after going around a bend, the trail suddenly straightened and headed E.

By now the forest had thinned considerably. Ahead was an encouraging sign. A bare hilltop! Apparently there actually was a limit to how much higher Looper was going to have to go.

On the straightaway. Getting up there, but still a way to go. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 17 crossed a steep drainage, then turned N. More switchbacks! Lupe kept going, zig-zagging higher. The trail finally went clear around to the N side of the mountain before starting to turn E again. By now, the views of Mystic Lake more than 2,000 feet lower were amazing! Part of Island Lake was visible beyond the W end. N of both lakes stood Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and beyond it Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.).

*If you don’t like this, you just don’t like mountains!* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** straight past the end of Mystic Lake. **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

As the trail continued curving E, Lupe came to sort of a little pass. This area was all stunted pine forest, except for a small hill just N of the trail. The W end of this hill was all gravelly. Not much of a climb to get up there. Since this hill might be a last chance to look back at Mystic Lake, Loop ventured up.

Only the W half of Mystic Lake was in sight, but Loopster could see even more of Island Lake than she had been able to before. The amazing, and somewhat horrifying view, though, was of the massive ridge to the S, the same ridge Lupe was trying to get up onto. Oh, my gosh! The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go!

**Mystic Lake** and **Island Lake** from the W end of the gravelly hill. **Twin Peaks** (R). Photo looks W.

*Still a bit of a trek to get up to that ridge isn’t it?* Photo looks SW.

E of the gravelly hill, the forest gave out. Turned out that the gravelly hill had not actually been the last spot to get a good look at Mystic Lake. In fact, the primo viewpoint was an even higher grassy area way up here near the edge of a cliff. Except for a little piece at the far E end near the dam, Lupe could see almost the entire lake. Across the enormous West Rosebud Creek canyon, the top of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) was now in sight, too!

*Even better! Don’t ya, think?* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** (R of Center), **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

*Top of **Mount Wood** behind me!* **Twin Peaks** (far L), **Mount Hague** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The trail kept climbing, winding its way E. Turned out Lupe didn’t have to gain as much elevation as it had seemed back at the gravelly hill. She was heading for a significantly lower part of that same massive ridge, Pass 10140, an enormous saddle that Phantom Creek trail No. 17 went over on its way to another giant canyon where Phantom Creek was.

Shortly after rounding a corner, an unmarked trail junction appeared. A side trail headed SW up a ravine here, no doubt a shortcut to Montana’s state high point, unseen Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), which was still miles away and a technical climb.

The shortcut to Granite Peak is on the R around the next bend. Photo looks SE.

*Going to **Granite Peak**? SPHP thinks you should go R here. I’m going L!* Photo looks SW.

Skipping the shortcut, Lupe continued E on Phantom Creek trail No. 17. The rate of climb was diminishing. Only 0.5 mile now to Pass 10140!

9-3-20, 2:03 PM, Pass 10140 – Suddenly Lupe was there, crossing a vast, sparsely vegetated plain. Two cowboys riding horses were coming this way. Lupe let them go by before heading over to a cairn halfway across the pass. Not the absolute high point, but close enough.

**Twin Peaks** (L), **Mount Hague** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R) from **Pass 10140**. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Ho, ho! Loopster, we’re here! Can’t believe it! Been dreading that climb with this dang heavy pack, yet here we are. And so early, too!

We’re here? You mean this is it? We aren’t staying here, are we, SPHP?

Yes, we are! This pass is gonna be base camp. Isn’t it fabulous?

Glad you’re excited, SPHP, but I’m detecting a serious squirrel deficiency.

Squirrels, schmirrels! Sniff around some. You might find something even better than squirrels.

Better than squirrels! Like what?

Oh, I don’t know. Something more exotic, like marmots or mountain goats or grizzly bears. Anyway, I’m pooped. C’mon, let’s go find a spot to pitch your tiny house.

Several hundred feet SW of the trail was a gentle, grassy slope. Not as rocky as the rest of Pass 10140. Looper was soon resting comfortably next to her tiny house with a view of Mount Wood and Mount Hague in the distance.

Base camp at **Pass 10140**. **Mount Hague** (Center). **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks NW.

9-3-20, 4:13 PM, Pass 10140 – Lunch, and 2 hours of rest and relaxation had done wonders. The American Dingo was starting to get restless. Even SPHP felt revived. Nothing planned, but hours of daylight left.

So what now, SPHP? Do you think you’re up to it? Looks easy.

Heh. Yeah, it does. Tempting, but we probably shouldn’t, Looper. Might regret it tomorrow. Another big day coming.

Oh, c’mon! It’s not that far away! Why don’t we give it a go? Can always turn back, if it isn’t panning out. We’re here with time on our paws. If not now, when? I’ll give you a hint. Never! That’s when.

True enough. Well, let me check the topo map.

To the ENE, on the far side of Phantom Creek trail No. 17, was another big chunk of the massive ridge that Pass 10140 was part of. A big conical high point was visible over there, and the terrain leading to it did look pretty easy from here.

The topo map revealed that the cone was likely the site of the “Mystic” survey benchmark, and the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.). Loop might also be able to tag Prairieview Mountain (10,575 ft.) along the way. Not that much additional elevation gain on the day, and two 10,000 footers for the price of one! Still, round trip, it would be a good 5 miles, at least. Hmm.

Alrighty, then! Guess we did come here to climb mountains, didn’t we? Onward! Puppy, ho!

That’s the spirit, SPHP!

**Prairieview Mountain** (small knobs R of Center) and **Saddleback Mountain** (R) from **Pass 10140** base camp. Photo looks ENE.

Heading NE, Lupe crossed Phantom Creek trail No. 17, and started up a long, barren slope. Cake! A few rocks, nothing major. Fun trek. Rapid progress. Why had SPHP even hesitated? This was pure brilliance!

Approaching knobby **Prairieview Mountain**. **Saddleback Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The terrain got rockier. Progress slowed as Loopster scrambled past a minor talus ridge, avoiding the worst of it. Another plain beyond the talus. Scattered bushes and rocks. Still not bad. Prairieview Mountain, an elevated line of rock outcroppings bisecting the enormous ridge, was now just ahead.

Glancing back. **Froze to Death Mountain** (L). **Pass 10140** (R). Photo looks SW.

Most of Prairieview Mountain was a gently rounded ridgeline running N/S dotted with scattered bushes and boulders. However, a number of widely separated rock formations 30 to 50 feet high were strung out along the length of this ridge. These rock formations were similar to each other in that they all consisted of big mounds of large talus.

Coming up near the middle of the ridge, or maybe a bit toward the S, it was clear that the summit had to be farther N. Skipping the closest rock formation, Lupe headed for the next one.

Near the top of **Prairieview Mountain** looking for the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the next rock formation to the N, the ground became a sea of massive boulders half sunk into the mountain. Between the boulders grew a profusion of bushes that served to hide how deep the holes they occupied were. Sometimes only a few inches, other times several feet. Where possible, boulder hopping was by far the easiest mode of travel.

Climbing from the S, Loopster got near the top of this rock formation, but the stones at the very top were so massive, there was no way the Carolina Dog could get up there. Retreating, she circled around to the W hoping to find a better route. None! The W and N sides were worse.

Lupe almost made it to the top of this rock formation, but couldn’t scale the highest boulder. Photo looks N.

*Not happening, SPHP!* Same rock formation, opposite side. Photo looks S.

Hah! Didn’t matter. An even higher rock formation was now in sight a little farther N. Close to the far N end of the whole mountain, the true summit had to be over there.

Next rock formation to the N (Center). Photo looks N.

Another boulder hop over to this next jumble of talus, and Lupe once again started up the S side. Too steep! Swinging around to the W, the American Dingo managed to keep gaining elevation, but still couldn’t make it to the top. Every time it seemed like she was getting close, even higher rocks kept appearing a little farther N.

How much farther, SPHP? Can you tell?

Not really. 15 feet, 20, 30? Not at all sure the true summit is even in sight yet, Loop. Can’t be that much higher. At the moment we’re kind of stuck here, though. Practically straight up. We’re going to have to keep working our way around somehow.

Well, how bad do we really want to do this? Isn’t Saddleback Mountain more impressive? Maybe it’s easier than this one?

You might be right! Scrambling around on all this talus is just chewing up a ton of time. We’re gonna break our fool necks, too, if we’re not careful. You got pretty close to the top of Prairieview. Wanna call it, and go on to Saddleback?

Sure! Why waste daylight here, when the glittering prize is over there?

Sort of a shame. Lupe had gotten so close to the top of Prairieview! With enough patience and persistence, she probably could of done it. Oh, well! Life in the mountains. Not always one roaring success after another. A careful descent, and it was on to Saddleback Mountain, still nearly a mile E.

Abandoning **Prairieview Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

*If at first you don’t succeed, on to **Saddleback Mountain**!* (Center) Photo looks E.

Look back again, SPHP!

Huh? What for, Looper?

At Prairieview Mountain.

Oh, for pity sake!

Good thing we gave up on it!

Eh. You could have done it, Loopster. Just would have taken us forever and a day the way we were going about it.

Looking back at Prairieview Mountain, it was now perfectly clear that the true summit was a big boulder perched way over at the N end of a long talus ridge, the same pile of talus Lupe had started up from the S. She may have reached a point not an awful lot lower than where that highest rock sat before giving up, but she had still been an icky long horizontal scramble from where the true summit actually was.

*Oh, the joke’s on us! We were climbing the wrong (L) end!* **True summit of Prairieview Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Well, whatever! Focus shifted back to the problem at paw. The closer Lupe was getting to Saddleback Mountain, the rockier the upper slopes were looking. Prairieview Mountain on steroids? Hopefully not. A long, gentle N slope appeared to be the easiest approach, but it was far away. Time was ticking. SPHP headed for the S side of the mountain instead.

**Saddleback Mountain’s long N slope** (L) looked like a lovely gentle ramp to the top. SPHP led Lupe to the R. Photo looks NE.

Worked great! At first. Looper gained quite a bit of elevation on grassy S slopes, but she still had hundreds of feet to go when the talus started getting thick. Lanes of vegetation soon got choked off. The Carolina Dog was gradually forced to circle around to the W side of the mountain as she worked her way higher.

In the end, there was no escaping the talus. The last 200 feet were a slow, steep, treacherous, miserable climb, but bit by bit, Loopster was getting there.

*Miserable! What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re doing great! C’mon, pick up the pace!*

The sun was already getting low when Lupe reached a flatter region above the final steep scramble. Egads! The whole mountaintop was nothing but talus! Pretty big stuff. It all sloped gradually higher to the S, where 250 feet away a modest cairn was visible at the summit.

Success in sight, Lupe boulder-hopped her way to the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.).

Nearly there! **Cairn** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

9-3-20, 6:51 PM, Saddleback Mountain – Clouds moved in messing with the light moments before the American Dingo reached the true summit. Too bad, but that’s the way the Milkbone crumbles. The good news was that Lupe now stood next to the cairn on the highest of 3 light pink and gray boulders splotched with black lichens that together constitute the tippy top of Saddleback Mountain.

Tie game! Score: Mountains 1 – Dingoes 1.

On **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

The summit was right next to the S edge of the mountain. In fact, one of the three highest boulders hung halfway out in space. 360 degree views, of course! Massive ridges, deep canyons, and high peaks in all directions except to the NE where Lupe could see clear out to the plains. The air was smoky over there. Lucky that wasn’t the case up here!

To the NW was another perspective on some of the peaks Lupe had seen on the way up Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Mount Wood (12,660 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.) and others farther W.

**Twin Peaks** (L of Center), **Mount Hague** (R of Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Beyond giant ridges, a line of higher flat-topped peaks was visible far to the SSE. Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.), which Lupe had failed to even get to with her friend Jobe Wymore last month, was somewhere over there. Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), too, which she did manage to climb.

SPHP could pick out a peak that looked like Castle Mountain. Sky Pilot would have been hidden beyond it.

The most interesting view of all, though, was to the SW. Phantom Creek and glimpses of Phantom Lake and Froze to Death Lake were visible in a deep canyon. Beyond them stood Mount Peal (12,409 ft.). Farther W, Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the state high point, soared behind Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).

**Mount Peal** (Center) and **Granite Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Tempest Mountain** (L). **Granite Peak** (L of Center) with **Froze to Death Mountain** in front of it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe sat perched on Saddleback Mountain’s summit boulder. Not quite half an hour since she’d arrived. Saddleback had been unplanned bonus peak, but a great one. Sad to have to depart so soon. Better get down, though, before the light was gone.

*We’re leaving already? I was just getting comfortable!*

Looper had barely left the summit when the evening sun broke through the clouds. Suddenly the light was exquisite, the world transformed in an explosion of glowing color and sharp contrasts. A fleeting sublime moment. Lupe paused. What a spectacular end to a spectacular day!

Leaving **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Oh, but it wasn’t over yet, not by a long shot! As always, SPHP was super slow on the long, steep talus descent. Lupe wound up much farther NW than where she’d come up, the sun already long gone by the time SPHP escaped Saddleback Mountain’s tenacious grip.

Dusk deepened, and the first stars glittered, as Loop hurried SW across the plain leading to Prairieview Mountain, dodging scattered boulders and black bush-filled holes between them much of the way.

Reaching Prairieview’s ridgeline a little S of center, the flashlight had to come out. Lupe sniffed and roamed as if it were broad daylight, while SPHP stumbled almost blindly forward through infinite rocks and bushes toward the last minor talus outcroppings farther W.

Beyond them, an hour after dark, dramatic improvement. Easy terrain! A gentle downslope! To the E, a rising ghostly white moon frightened the weakest stars from the night sky. An incredible, but weary moonlit trek! Finally across Phantom Creek trail No. 17 and to the tiny house. A famished American Dingo inhaled dinner, and was gone.

Off to Dingo dreamland! Yeah, it did seem like the place to be.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Livingston Peak, Absaroka Range, Montana (8-19-20)

Days 14-16 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-18-20, 4:35 PM, 72ºF, Kings Hill Pass, Hwy 89 – As Lupe sniffed her way around the Kings Hill campground loop, sad thoughts. A few years ago, this had been a popular place. The campground was open again after being closed the last couple of times the Carolina Dog had visited, but hardly anyone around now. Most of the beautiful trees had been cut. A sign said water was no longer available due to the spring drying up.

Along the road to nearby Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.), the situation wasn’t much better. Trees cut way back from the roadside were heaped in ugly brown piles. At least it only turned out to be this way near the start. After the first curve, the forest hadn’t been touched.

Looper trotted along keeping an eye out for squirrels. She’d spent much of the day relaxing by Jefferson Creek while SPHP caught up the trip journal. That had gotten mighty dull after a while, so she was happy just being on the move again.

Didn’t take long to reach Porphyry Peak’s summit. The sky was the clearest the American Dingo had seen it up here in years. Miles to the NE, Long Mountain (8,621 ft.), Big Baldy Mountain (9,177 ft.), and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.), 3 of the highest peaks in the Little Belt Range, were all looking good!

Near the fire lookout tower on **Porphyry Peak**. Photo looks E.

**Long Mountain** (L), **Old Baldy Mountain** (Center) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

8-18-20, 7:32 PM, 71ºF, Kings Hill Pass – Porphyry Peak hadn’t taken all that long. Loop had been back for an hour already. She was surprised, but all for it when SPHP suggested heading up to Kings Hill (8,008 ft.), too. With the air so clear and a few clouds around, maybe there would be a fabulous sunset?

Lupe arrived at the summit just in time. Eh, not super spectacular, but not bad, either.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.

8-19-20, morning, Hwy 89, S of White Sulphur Springs – Wet pavement was all the G6 encountered as an isolated storm drifted off to the E, but the sky still looked stormy ahead. After a brief stop in Livingston, SPHP drove S a couple of miles to a L turn (Hwy 89, MP 49.8) onto East River Road (Hwy 540). After crossing a bridge, East River Road curved SE.

Hey, SPHP! Wasn’t that the Carter bridge? We spent some time here down by the Yellowstone River not too long ago, didn’t we?

Yup! That’s right, Loop! We stopped at the river after checking out the Suce Creek trailhead, remember?

Isn’t that the trailhead for Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.)? Are we going to do that next?

Yes, and yes!

Having scouted it out before, SPHP drove right to the trailhead.

**Livingston Peak** (Center) from the NNW a week earlier.

**Suce Creek Road** is a L (E) turn off East River Road 3 miles SE of Hwy 89 and the Carter Bridge over the Yellowstone River. Photo looks S.

**Suce Creek Road** from East River Road. Photo looks ESE.

**Livingston Peak** from about a mile in on Suce Creek Road. Photo looks NE.

Sign at a R turn to the Suce Creek trailhead. Photo looks NE.

At the Suce Creek trailhead a week earlier. Photo looks NE.

8-19-20, 11:10 AM, 64ºF, Suce Creek trailhead – A small thunderstorm passed through shortly after Lupe reached the trailhead, resulting in a 15 minute delay waiting in the G6 for the rain to stop. Quite a few clouds still around, but plenty of blue sky to the W, so maybe it was going to be OK? SPHP had a look at a posted map of area trails before Loop started up Suce Creek trail No. 44.

Suce Creek area trail map. Loop started out from the lower trailhead.

At the start of Suce Creek trail No. 44.

Heading SE, Lupe crossed a meadow. The trail then curved N, climbing into a region of tall bushes. Loop gained 100 feet of elevation before the trail leveled out. Here a junction appeared on the R with North Deep Creek trail No. 45, but the American Dingo ignored it and went on.

Crossing the first meadow. **HP7290** (R). Photo looks SE.

At the junction with N Deep Creek trail No. 45, which Lupe didn’t take. Photo looks NE.

The Suce Creek trail soon curved back to the W and started downhill. After losing 280 feet of elevation, Lupe came to a large half-rotten log with a wooden handrail serving as a bridge over a small stream.

Just beyond the log bridge was another trail intersection, this time with West Suce Creek trail No. 450, which went off to the L. Directly ahead was Suce Creek itself. Lupe went R, sticking with Trail No. 44.

Intersection of Suce Creek trails No. 44 and No. 450.

Staying SE of Suce Creek, the trail went NE up a long leafy valley. Due to the dense vegetation, Suce Creek was often heard, but seldom in sight. Before long, Lupe started coming to more signs. The first one mentioned an actual Livingston Peak trailhead 4 miles ahead. 9 or 10 minutes past this sign the trail forked.

The L branch quickly led to a bank overlooking Suce Creek where the trail simply ended, apparently eroded away. Returning to the R branch, there was a small “NF TRAIL” sign. Loop continued on this way.

On leafy Suce Creek trail No. 44. Photo looks NE.

*Maybe there’s a shorter way to Livingston Peak, SPHP? 4 miles to the official trailhead!*

The L branch of a fork disappears into **Suce Creek**.

45 minutes from the trailhead, Suce Creek trail No. 44 finally crossed Suce Creek. No bridge here, but the stream was merely a rock hop. Up to this point, Lupe had been gaining elevation quite slowly. However, the incline now steepened somewhat as she started up into the Lost Creek valley.

Lost Creek was just a tiny thing. The trail crossed it several times, often as little more than dry washes, or a mud hole at one point. Farther up the valley, Lost Creek actually had better flow. 45 minutes after crossing Suce Creek, Lupe crossed Lost Creek at a point where the stream was deepest, which still wasn’t saying much.

*Lost Creek is looking pretty good here! A mighty 2 inches deep!*

Beyond this final Lost Creek crossing, Trail No. 44 left the valley floor. Lupe climbed a short, steep slope. Curving sharply back to the SW, the trail promptly leveled out. Soon occasional breaks in the forest were providing first glimpses of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) and Mount Delano (10,138 ft.).

At the start of a long switchback reached after crossing Lost Creek. Photo looks SW.

A glimpse of **Livingston Peak** (L). Photo looks ESE.

Loopster followed this nice, flat switchback for 0.5 mile before reaching a clearing at Pass 6420. A crude wooden bench offered a good view of Mount Delano. The top of what might have been Mount McKnight (10,310 ft.) was even in sight.

Arriving at a big clearing 4 miles from the Suce Creek trailhead. Photo looks E.

**Mount McKnight** (?) (Center), **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks SSE.

This clearing was a major intersection with a number of other trails. The upper end of West Suce Creek trail No. 450 went off to the SW from here. Just around a corner to the NE, was a spur going NW to the official Livingston Peak trailhead. Lupe had no reason to visit that destination, though. Instead she headed NE on Livingston Peak trail No. 449.

About to start up Livingston Peak trail No. 449. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had traveled 4 miles in 2 hours to get to the clearing, but only had a net gain of 800 feet of elevation to show for it. Still 3,000 feet to go! Even so, the first part of the Livingston Peak trail still wasn’t steep. The trail wound NE on a broad, forested ridge gaining elevation at an easy to moderate pace.

SPHP began hearing a sound like the faint jingling of bear bells, but Lupe seemed oblivious to it. Turned out that the sound was actually water trickling through a rusty 4″ diameter pipe half buried along the edge of the trail. This pipe followed the trail for quite a long way, even after the trail left the ridge to traverse the same steep slope Lupe had been on earlier, but now well above that first long switchback.

From up here, Lupe had a much better view of Livingston Peak.

**Livingston Peak** from the upper switchback. Photo looks E.

This upper switchback was also long and flat. Easy traveling! Loopster made rapid progress. Soon she could see a big rock formation 1.5 miles off to the ENE. Checking the topo map, SPHP suspected Pass 8300 was over in that vicinity.

On the also easy, upper switchback. Photo looks NE.

**Pass 8300** is up next to the big rock formation (Center). Photo looks E.

Continuing NE, the terrain was changing. Somewhere along the way, Lupe left the moss-covered water pipe and upper switchback behind, as the steepness of the slope the trail was on began to decrease. The trail eventually turned E, crossing a fairly large meadow before returning to the forest where the Carolina Dog went over minor Pass 7060.

On the E side of Pass 7060, Livingston Peak trail No. 449 curved N, but soon gradually swung around to the E, then SE. For a little way, Lupe was on the NE side of the upper Lost Creek drainage. As soon as the trail dipped to cross the dry stream bed, the situation changed.

Up to this point, both the Suce Creek and Livingston Peak trails had been easy to moderate (at worst) climbs virtually the entire way. The couple of long switchbacks had been been quite flat, and beyond Pass 7060 there had been a stretch where Lupe had even lost a little elevation. However, on the SW side of Lost Creek, Trail No. 449 started climbing much more aggressively, pinned tightly between a steep forested slope and the creek bed.

On the NE side of the valley, large rock formations formed the crest of a long ridge rising to the SE.

Rock formations seen shortly before crossing upper Lost Creek. Photo looks N.

SW side of Lost Creek. The trail starts climbing much more aggressively here.

At first, Lost Creek seemed to be completely dry this high up, but that wasn’t entirely true. Now and then a trickle of water surfaced, enough for Lupe to get a drink, but little more than that. The trail soon crossed back over to the NE side of the valley, where it remained from then on continuing relentlessly higher. Meanwhile, views of the rocky ridge to the NE became more and more impressive.

**HP7623** (L) and the ridge of rock NE of the trail (R). Photo looks NNW.

*Seems like we’re finally starting to get somewhere!* Photo looks NNW.

*Can’t be too much farther to **Pass 8300**!* Photo looks SE.

The last water in Lost Creek was seen right before the trees gave out. Ahead, a meadow stretched all the remaining distance up to Pass 8300. Another 200+ feet of elevation gain ought to about do it!

**Pass 8300** (Center) appears ahead. Photo looks SE.

Pass 8300 was a broad grassy region. A large cairn sat out in the middle of it. Although the topo map showed a trail continuing over the SE side of the pass into East Baldy Basin, Lupe saw no sign of it. The view of the canyon on the other side was impressive, though, and so was the sight of a massive forested slab of rock on Livingston Peak’s N slope.

The N side of Pass 8300 was bordered by a grassy hill topped by a strip of forest above which a distinctive crest of solid rock curved like the brim of a giant old-fashioned bonnet. Back to the NW was a hazy view of Livingston, Montana, fully 3,800 feet lower way down in the Yellowstone River valley.

Looking over **Pass 8300**. Photo looks SE.

**N slope of Livingston Peak**. How do trees even survive on that slab of rock with so little soil? Photo looks SSE.

By the **Pass 8300 cairn**. Livingston, Montana is visible down in the Yellowstone River valley beyond Lupe and forested **HP7623** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The S side of Pass 8300 was bordered by a steep forested slope. The N face of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) looked about 300 feet high, but only part of it could be seen from here. In reality, Loopster still had another 1,000 feet to go. After a short rest break, the American Dingo headed for the trees at the base of the slope.

**N face of Livingston Peak** from **Pass 8300**. Photo looks SW.

**Mission Creek valley** (R) from just below the trees S of Pass 8300. **HP8460** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

Looking back at **Pass 8300** before heading up. **Peak 8631** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Fortunately, a use trail went up Livingston Peak’s N face. The slope was so steep that SPHP kept grabbing branches and tree trunks for support, as Lupe charged practically straight up the mountain. Nearly the entire route was forested, but toward the top, the trees shrank in size and began to thin out.

Getting easier! Already a long way up the N slope where the trees start thinning out. Photo looks S.

Rock slides appeared, a few cairns showing the route higher. Above the rocks, Lupe found the trail again on a grassy slope dotted with young pines, but it soon played out, vanishing 50 feet below the top.

Looking down on **Pass 8300** (R of Center). **Peak 8631** (R). Photo looks NNE.

The rest was easy! Lupe reached a stony NW/SE oriented summit ridge. A cairn with boards and a metal pole sticking out of it at weird angles was visible a short distance to the SE. From the cairn, the true summit appeared to be over at a collection of rocks 25 or 30 feet farther SE, but they were only marginally higher.

Made it! On the summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

By the oddly decorated cairn. Photo looks NW.

5:08 PM, Livingston Peak – Whew! From Suce Creek, Livingston Peak had been a long march followed by that 1,000 foot very steep climb at the end. SPHP dumped the backpack by some stunted pines near the true summit. A couple photos of a survey benchmark attached to one of the largest rocks, and it was time for a break.

The **survey benchmark** (Center) and cairn from the true summit. **Canyon Mountain (8,038 ft.)** (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Too bad the sky wasn’t as clear as it had been earlier! Only weakly sunny now. Plenty of general murkiness, but still some blue sky to the N. A small thunderstorm rumbled 25 miles S, dropping heavy rain as it drifted NE. SPHP kept an eye on it as Looper relaxed. No worries. Gonna miss Livingston Peak by a wide margin.

The best views were to the S where Black Mountain (10,941 ft.) soared well beyond Mount Delano (10,138 ft.), which was connected by a long ridge of lesser peaks to Peak 10228 farther E.

**Peak 10228** (L). **HP8806** in the foreground above Lupe’s rump with **Black Mountain** (Center) in the distance beyond it. **Mount Delano** a bit to the R. Photo looks S.

The highest part of Livingston Peak’s summit ridge was 600 or 700 feet long. The N slope Lupe had come up had been very steep, but the S side of the mountain was even steeper, nearly a precipice. The true summit was much closer to the NW end of the summit ridge than the SE end, and the cairn even more so.

Another thunderstorm appeared W of the first one, but observation led merely to the conclusion that this storm was destined to miss Livingston Peak, as well. After enjoying a decent break, Loopster set off to explore the longer part of the summit ridge to the SE. Small pines concentrated along the S edge were easily bypassed by staying a bit to the N.

Exploring the summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

From the entire ridge, Lupe had a clear view of Peak 8631 and HP8460 to the NE. After traveling SE far enough to get past most of the trees, she also had a panoramic view of everything that way, too.

**Peak 8631** (L) and **HP8460** (Center). Photo looks NE.

**Peak 9472** (far L) and **Peak 9444** just to the R of it. **Peak 10228** (L of Center), **Black Mountain** (R of Center), and **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 10228** (Center). Photo looks SSE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 10088** (L), **Black Mountain** (Center), and **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

If Lupe had had the time, she could have explored Livingston Peak’s SE ridge for miles, but she went only 400 or 500 feet from the true summit to where the highest part of the ridge began to drop off appreciably. Doubling back to explore the much shorter section of the ridge NW of the true summit, SPHP kept a close eye on events to the SW where rain showers could still be seen beyond the lower Suce Creek valley and Yellowstone River.

Storms to the S and SW bore watching. Lower Suce Creek valley (R). Photo looks SW.

Lower **Suce Creek valley** (Center). **Yellowstone River** beyond it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Venturing out along the **NW ridge**. Photo looks SE back toward the cairn.

Lupe went only 200 or 300 feet beyond the cairn to where the NW ridge got kind of rocky. Beyond this point, the ridge started dropping off much more steeply. Unfortunately, conditions to the W were deteriorating. What should have been a great view of Livingston, Montana was very hazy. Prairies, hills and mountains beyond it were barely visible. Far to the N was a dim view of the Crazy Mountains.

As far NW as Lupe went. **Canyon Mountain (8,308 ft.)** (L). **Livingston, MT** (lower R). Photo looks NW.

**Livingston, MT**. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking down on **HP7623** (Center). **Yellowstone River** beyond it. Photo looks NNW.

**Crazy Mountains** in the distance. Photo looks N.

By the time Lupe had been up on Livingston Peak for 40 minutes, not a speck of blue sky remained. A third thunderstorm was now off to the SW. Not wanting to leave before her traditional hour at the top was over, Loop headed back to the stunted pines near the true summit to relax a while longer.

The entire S horizon darkened as the Carolina Dog watched a gray wall of heavy rain creep steadily closer, sweeping from vision everything in its path. Raining almost everywhere to the S now. Lupe and SPHP hung in there, enjoying a few last precious moments of rest, solitude, and quiet contemplation.

Enjoying another break as the rain spreads. Peak 9472 (L), **Peak 9444** (Center), and **Peak 10288** (R). Photo looks SE.

8-19-20, 6:12 PM, Livingston Peak – Alright! Hour’s up! Better get with it. A final stroll about the true summit area, and Lupe stood by the cairn on top of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) for the last time. The wall of rain to the S was only a few miles away now. Impact seemed certain.

Near the end. Looking SE from the **true summit**.

Loop’s last moments at the **true summit** with the cairn beyond her. Photo looks NW.

By the cairn with rain on the way. Photo looks W.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Might have waited too long! Hurry, hurry! Livingston Peak’s steep N slope would be extremely slick and super treacherous, if it got soaked. Bad enough when it was dry! In a rush, Lupe and SPHP left the summit heading NNW down the grassy slopes leading to the rock slides.

Uh, oh. Where’s the trail? SPHP couldn’t find it. Loop sniffed about, but didn’t seem to know where it was, either. A couple of minutes marching back and forth looking for some sign of it, and SPHP spotted a cairn down among the rocks. There we go!

Below the rocks, the trail was easily picked up again. The race was on, such as it was. SPHP had to proceed at least somewhat cautiously. Just too steep! Meanwhile, Lupe decided to play a game. The crazy Carolina Dog kept stopping and letting SPHP go on ahead. She just sat there until SPHP was completely out of sight before she’d even consider following. SPHP often had to call her again and again before she’d reappear.

Not a good time for these Dingo shenanigans!

Down, down, down! For some reason the rain was holding off. Ought to have been here by now. A few scattered big drops hit. Thunder rumbled closer and closer. Any moment now!

Yet it didn’t happen. Started sprinkling a few times, but kept quitting. Lucky! Would be great to get down to Pass 8300 before the rain really hit. Lupe finally got the idea that down was the place to be. The waiting and stalking game apparently over, she zipped on by SPHP.

Hah! Made it! There was Loopster waiting down at the pass.

Somehow the rain must have missed Livingston Peak? Even so, the race was still on. The way the sky looked, likely a temporary reprieve. Once SPHP joined Looper at Pass 8300, she led the way, turning NW down into the upper Lost Creek drainage on Livingston Peak trail No. 449.

The Luck of the Dingo held! The trail seemed longer than SPHP remembered, but Lupe got clear down past the steep part along Lost Creek, too. Still no rain, but storms were now squeezing in from both S and N. Making great progress here, though! The path was now level or a slight downhill slant most of the time.

The forest grew dim. Hard to tell what the storm situation was. Lupe made it over minor Pass 7060, and through the meadow! The American Dingo reached the long straightaway of the upper switchback, but trouble was inevitable. Trapped! Raining to the N! Raining to the S! Thunder and lightning to the W! Livingston Peak was the only place where it wasn’t raining. Not gonna last.

Toward the end of the upper switchback, it began. Light rain at first. Reaching the ridge leading down to the trail junction where the wooden bench was, SPHP stopped to put on the ancient tattered blue Cookie Monster look-alike rain poncho. Flashlight on! An already damp Dingo resumed the trek. Moments later, the deluge hit.

Not exactly a cloudburst, but it rained hard. Lightning flashed, thunder boomed. Totally drenched, Loopster was miserable and worried sick. Scary close! Again and again the impenetrable black forest suddenly lit up in a blinding blaze, momentarily illuminating dripping trees and pouring rain. An instant later black as death again, only the feeble beam of the flashlight revealing the muddy trail ahead.

30 minutes, and the rain abated. Thunder and deadly lightning drifted E. Occasional light showers, then nothing. No way to dry off, though. Sopping wet vegetation overhung the trail in too many places.

8-19-20, 10:08 PM, Suce Creek trailhead – The Livingston Peak adventure was finally over. SPHP opened the door of the G6, and a mighty weary American Dingo leapt inside. Atop a pile of gear and pillows, Lupe curled up on her pink blankie and started licking herself dry. Too tired to even eat much, she closed her eyes after only 0.5 can of Alpo. Lights out, totally zonked.

8-20-20, 7:22 PM, SW of Meeteetse, WY – Light already fading, Lupe stood alongside the W end of Hwy 431. Parched sagebrush and a white sky. Off to the W, a pink-orange sun had just sunk into the murk.

At the W end of Hwy 413 SW of Meeteetse, Wyoming. Photo looks NE.

The Carolina Dog’s 3rd Dingo Vacation of the Year of Perfect Vision was over. Livingston Peak had been the grand finale. Lupe was going home.

August 20th! Wasn’t supposed to be like this. So many mountains yet to climb this summer! But the sun had been pink-orange at the Suce Creek trailhead this morning, too. SPHP hadn’t thought much of it at the time. Rained again for an hour. About mid-morning when it started getting sunny and hot, Lupe and SPHP had driven down to the Yellowstone River access point, and hung out down there for a few hours.

However, yesterday’s rains were merely local. By mid-afternoon, the air was hazy again. The plan was to go climb mountains in the Beartooths next, but when Lupe got there, the air was thick with smoke. Only a dim outline of the mighty Beartooths could be seen.

No sense in going to all the trouble of climbing big mountains smothered in smoke! Eh, no worries. The Beartooths aren’t the only mountains in the American West. Time for Plan B! Lupe could just slip down into Wyoming and head for the grand and glorious Wind River range.

Wyoming was no better. In fact, it was worse. Not a cloud in the sky. Ought to have been a perfect day. Looking straight up Lupe could see a blue tinge. Everywhere else, a dirty white sky. A uniform dirty white for hundreds of miles.

Somewhere out W, countless wildfires were raging. The Livingston Peak rain had been a lucky, local fluke. Almost everywhere else, the W was in drought. Come to think of it, the sky had been hazy only a few days ago even at West Butte (6,983 ft.) way up in the Sweetgrass Hills by the Canadian border.

SW of Meeteetse, SPHP came to the realization that the Wind River range wasn’t going to be any different. Not much chance of finding clear skies anywhere else out W either. Prime time to be in the mountains, yet maybe the season was effectively over? Significant, widespread rains weren’t likely this time of year. Not out W!

That’s what it was going to take, too, wasn’t it?

The Year of Perfect Vision felt cursed. Was climbing season really, truly over already? Was Lupe done? Enormously disappointing, but sure felt like it. Maybe the Carolina Dog’s grand day at Livingston Peak really was the end. (Home, 8-21-20, 1:35 AM)

On **Livingston Peak**, Absaroka Range, Montana 8-19-20

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