2012 West Coast – Page 6 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

To the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River (8-10-12)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Lupe was somersaulting again against the door of her “tiny house”. She still hadn’t figured out that she couldn’t go through the tent door when it was zipped shut, but it had only been her second night ever in a tent. A squirrel was chattering away in a tree outside. Lupe wanted to go bark at it, but it was very early. Lanis was still asleep in the Honda Element, after his gear got soaked in a sudden downpour the previous evening.

Lanis isn’t much of a morning person. SPHP figured he would sleep for several more hours. This was an opportunity for Lupe to return to Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.). Lupe, Lanis and SPHP had climbed Bald Mountain the evening before, only to be almost immediately chased off of it by a brief intense rain shower. It wasn’t going to rain now, though. Lupe and SPHP left the squirrel and the campground in peace, and climbed Bald Mountain again.

After searching around on top of the mountain, SPHP had almost given up. Then, suddenly, there they were. Lupe had found the names that had been up there for a quarter century or more now. The names were just made out of loose rocks, but they were still easily recognizable. SPHP spent a little time repairing them.

SPHP wanted to add Lupe’s name to the mountain, but so much time had been lost looking around, it was probably best to get back down to the campground before Lanis awoke to find himself alone. It would take too much time to search around for some rocks to use. So Lupe and SPHP went down Bald Mountain enjoying the panoramic views, sunshine and fresh air.

(Just 11 months later, Lupe returned to spend a night on Bald Mountain and SPHP added her name then.)

SPHP needn’t have worried. Lanis was still sound asleep when Lupe returned. After having been responsible for getting Lanis’ gear wet the night before, SPHP wasn’t eager to further aggravate him by waking him up. Lupe and SPHP stayed busy in camp. Lanis eventually came to on his own. He was in a better mood than when he’d gone to sleep in the Element.

It was time for Lupe to leave the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming and head farther W. The sun was much higher now. Lanis and SPHP dried things out while Lupe sniffed around. Pretty soon things were dry enough to pack them back in the Honda Element, and Lupe, Lanis and SPHP were underway.

Lanis drove W out of the Bighorns on steep, windy Hwy 14A. The route continued through Lovell, Powell and Cody, WY. From Cody, Lupe went N on Hwy 120 to Hwy 296, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway lived up to its name. The road wound high up over a lofty pass. At a pullout on the W side of the pass, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP got out for a look.

View from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Photo looks W from the pullout near the pass.

The view was most impressive, but there was a chilly wind. It looked rather stormy on the W side of the pass. Lupe hadn’t been at the pullout long when a cold rain began to fall. American Dingoes do have the good sense to come in out of the rain. Lanis and SPHP quickly joined Lupe in the Honda Element. Lupe’s journey continued down the winding highway on the W side of the pass.

The rain eventually stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out. The St. Joseph Scenic Byway led to the Beartooth Hwy (No. 212). The Beartooth Highway goes NE over spectacular Beartooth Pass on its way to Red Lodge, MT, but Lupe wasn’t going that way yet. Instead Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed W on the Beartooth Highway toward Cooke City, MT.

A side road off the St. Joseph Scenic Byway. The rain had stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.

Lanis and SPHP were looking for a campsite along the way. There were some campgrounds, but SPHP was picky and found nothing that looked quite right before reaching Cooke City, MT. Along the way, Montana became the 3rd U.S. Lupe state!

Cooke City, MT is basically a one street tourist town strategically situated 5 miles from the NE entrance to Yellowstone National Park. After looking around town just a little bit, it was time to get more serious about finding a campsite. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed back E on the Beartooth Hwy. This time Lanis was driving slower to allow for a more complete reconnaissance of the possibilities.

Not long after entering Wyoming again, Lanis and SPHP saw a turn to a little parking lot just N of the highway. A pickup truck with a camper was parked there close to a bend in a very beautiful river just 200 feet from the highway. It looked like a great dispersed camping site. Lanis pulled in off the highway. Everyone piled out of the Element to check things out.

This bend in the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe's stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R). — This bend in the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe’s stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R).

This small waterfall or rapid was just downstream of the bend in the river.

Unknown to Lupe, Lanis and SPHP at the time, the river was the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone. This gorgeous site would become home base for the entire time Lupe spent in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. The bend in the river offered a terrific view of the dramatic spire of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and its neighbor Index Peak (11,240 ft.) to the NW. Just downstream of the bend, was a small waterfall or rapid with a nice pool of clear, cold water below it.

The reconnaissance downstream quickly met with the approval of Lupe, Lanis and SPHP. A walk upstream through a wooded area to a field next to the river followed. After being cooped up in the Honda Element a good part of the day, Lupe was so stirred up by the wild river and glorious surroundings, she got a crazed look in her eye. She pranced and growled and demonstrated just how ferociously prepared American Dingoes are for life in the wilderness.

Lanis has an eye for detail and took this shot of some mossy lichens growing on a rotting log near the river.

Squirrels, schmirrels! Lupe feeling ready to take on elk, moose, grizzly bears and anything else the Beartooths can throw at her!

Returning to the bend in the river, SPHP had a chat with the other campers there, who already occupied the best site right next to the river. They told SPHP about a waterfall worth seeing just a mile or two to the E. The falls were up a short trail on the N side of the Beartooth Hwy. Why not check that out, too? Lupe, Lanis and SPHP hopped back in the Element to go find the waterfall.

As promised, a short, but steep hike up a trail led to a roaring torrent on Crazy Creek. The stream was strewn with logs. The falls were large, but this wasn’t really a classic straight down over an edge type of waterfall. It was too steep to be just rapids either. A better name is Crazy Creek Cascade. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP followed the trail all the way up to the top of the falls.

Crazy Creek Cascade. This waterfall was up a short, but steep climb N of the Beartooth Hwy.

Lupe at Crazy Creek just above the big cascade.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP played around on the rocks next to Crazy Creek just above the cascade until it started getting dark. Time to head back to the Element, and the great campsite on the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.

When Lupe returned, the sky was still overcast. In fact, the clouds were darker and denser than before. It looked like it would almost certainly rain overnight. It didn’t seem to make any sense to set up the tent, which would surely leak if it rained hard enough. Lanis was going to have company in the Element tonight. Outside the rain began.

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Shell Falls, Porcupine Falls & Bald Mountain in the Bighorn Mountains, WY (8-9-12)

Day 2 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Lupe was doing somersaults. A squirrel was chattering away in a tree somewhere outside Lupe’s “tiny house”. Lupe was desperate to go bark at it. She was hurling herself repeatedly against the screen door of the tent, not realizing it was zipped shut. She couldn’t get out. The crazy Carolina Dog was going paws over head, and doing a complete somersault each time she charged the fabric. The whole tent shook. SPHP and Lanis woke up.

Lanis, SPHP and Lupe were camped at Shell Creek in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming. It was morning, and clearly time to get up to relieve the American Dingo’s anxiety. After breakfast, Lanis, Lupe and SPHP took a short walk along Shell Creek. Returning from the walk, it was time to leave Shell Creek campground. Someone else had reservations for Site No. 11 tonight.

Lanis and Lupe's "tiny house" at Shell Creek. — Lanis and Lupe’s “tiny house” at Shell Creek.

Lanis' Honda Element was a great vehicle for Lupe's first ever Dingo Vacation. There was lots of cargo space and lots of doors for easy access to everything, including this set of double doors. Lupe had a great time riding in the Element. — Lanis’ Honda Element was a great vehicle for Lupe’s first ever Dingo Vacation. There was lots of cargo space. Plenty of doors, including this set of double doors, provided easy access to everything. Lupe had a great time riding in the Element.

Where to next? Shell Falls was relatively close by farther down Shell Canyon. About a mile upstream of Shell Falls, there were also some smaller waterfalls just off Hwy 14 where Lupe could go wading. Lupe went to visit both Shell Falls, and the smaller falls.

Lupe and Lanis visit Shell Falls in the Bighorn Mountains.

Below the falls. — The gorge below Shell Falls.

Shell Creek cascades down a series of smaller waterfalls about a mile upstream of Shell Falls.

Lanis and Lupe at the smaller waterfalls in Shell Canyon.

After visiting Shell Falls and the other smaller waterfalls in Shell Canyon, there was a debate over what to do next. Should Lupe return to Shell Creek campground to see if another site had opened up?

In the end, Lupe wound up going to Burgess Junction instead. Lanis went into the store and bought ice cream bars again, just like he’d done the previous day at Spotted Horse. Lupe liked this new ice cream bar tradition. She sacrificed any concerns over her own health, to help make sure SPHP didn’t get fat.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed W on Hwy 14A. There were two more waterfalls that would be worth seeing. One was Bucking Mule Falls. The other was Porcupine Falls. Both were miles N of the highway along gravel roads, but they were in the same general area. Since SPHP had seen Bucking Mule Falls once before, Porcupine Falls was chosen as Lupe’s destination.

The trail to Porcupine Falls wasn’t very long, but it was steep. Shortly after leaving the trailhead, it went steeply downhill most of the way. Porcupine Falls poured through a narrow gap in a rock wall into a big pool below. It was very pretty and dramatic looking gushing out between the high cliffs.

Porcupine Falls in the Bighorn Mountains, WY.

After seeing Porcupine Falls, and spending some time sniffing around the edges of the big pool below it, Lupe led everyone back up the trail to the Honda Element. Now that the trail was going steeply uphill, it didn’t seem nearly so short as before.

Once everyone was back at the Element, the consensus was that it was time to eat and secure a campsite. Bucking Mule Falls would have to wait for another day. Lupe went back to Hwy 14A. At the Bald Mountain campground, once again, Site 11 was the best one available. Lanis and SPHP pitched the tent and made dinner. After dinner, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP started climbing Bald Mountain. It was a really easy climb up a long grassy slope SE of the campground.

Lupe snoops around on her way up Bald Mountain. Photo looks NW toward Medicine Mountain, where the Bighorn Medicine Wheel is located. — Lupe snoops around on her way to climb Bald Mountain. Photo looks NW toward **Medicine Mountain** **(9,962 ft.)**, where the **Bighorn Medicine Wheel** is located. The Bald Mountain campground, where Lupe would spend the night, is at the closest clump of forest at the right edge of this photo.

When Lupe was about halfway up Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.), it started becoming apparent that a rainstorm was coming. A line of showers that had been quite some distance away to the W was moving in. By the time Lupe was near the top, rain showers were all around to the S, W & N. Now and then, there was some lightning off in these directions, too.

Within just a few minutes of when Lupe, Lanis and SPHP reached the top of Bald Mountain, the storm hit. A chill wind blew fiercely, and there was a cold stinging rain. The downpour was much harder than expected. With absolutely no cover on Bald Mountain, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP all got soaking wet. The storm wasn’t a big one, though, and would soon pass. SPHP expected to be able to just tough it out.

Suddenly there was a flash of lightning relatively close by, followed by the roar of thunder. There’s no toughing out lightning. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP all hastily abandoned the summit of Bald Mountain. Fifteen minutes later, the storm had blown on by. There was still light rain, but nothing of consequence. The rain had dampened everyone’s spirits, though. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP continued on down back to the campground.

After setting up Lupe’s “tiny house”, SPHP had thrown everything needed for the night into the tent. Unfortunately, SPHP had not put the rain cover on the tent. Most things were now damp. Lanis’ sleeping bag was just plain soaking wet. Lanis was not amused. Lupe and SPHP spent the night in the tent. Fortunately, there were still some dry blankets in the Honda Element. Lanis spent the night in the Element huddled under them, running the heater now and then to keep warm.Shell Falls is located 14 miles E of Greybull, WY in Shell Canyon. A parking lot and visitor center are right next to the N side of the highway. Shell Falls is a quick scenic stop for travelers on their way W to Yellowstone National Park.

Porcupine Falls and Bucking Mule Falls are located N of Hwy 14A (E of Lovell, WY) toward the W side of the Bighorn Mountain Range. Gravel roads lead to the trailheads. The 0.5 mile hike to Porcupine Falls leads to a large pool at the base of the falls. The trail to Bucking Mule Falls leads 1.5 miles to a scenic overlook from which the falls can be viewed from a distance.

Directions to Porcupine Falls and Bucking Mule Falls: E of Bald Mountain campground, there are two roads going N from Hwy 14A. (The first road is just E of the turn to Bald Mountain campground, the second is 2 miles farther E.) Both roads lead in just a few miles to an intersection with Devil’s Canyon Road. Take Devil’s Canyon Road W 4 miles to the Porcupine Falls trailhead, or 7 miles to the Bucking Mule Falls trailhead.

Advisory: Online information on the Bucking Mule Falls National Recreation Trail indicates that the trail to the scenic overlook of the falls is part of a much longer 15 mile trail. Continuing on beyond the viewpoint, the trail drops steeply 2,000 feet in 2 miles into Devil’s Canyon. One online trip report dating from July, 2013 said there were 5 miles of trail down in Devil’s Canyon choked with dead trees. In some places the trees had fallen 3 and 4 deep across the trail. Lupe recommends checking for current information on the trail’s condition before continuing beyond the overlook.

Lupe returned to Bald Mountain on the first day of her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. Click the red link to view Lupe’s post about her return visit.

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Bucking Mule Falls, Porcupine Falls & Duncum Mountain, Bighorn Range, Wyoming (6-14-18)

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Spotted Horse, The Giant Mushroom & Shell Creek, Wyoming (8-8-12)

Day 1 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Something different was happening. Lupe didn’t know what it all meant. She was 1 year and 7 months old, so the world was still pretty new. A couple days before, Lanis had arrived from Indiana in his Honda Element. Now Lanis and SPHP were carting the rear seats out of the Element, and into the living room. Lots of gear got stuffed into the back of the Element.

Lupe wondered what was going on. She had no idea what was coming. She didn’t know she was about to set out on her first ever Dingo Vacation. Even Lanis and SPHP had only a vague idea where Lupe was ultimately going to go. For starters, the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, then probably to the Beartooths, Yellowstone, and Glacier National Park. After that, well, who knew? It was an adventure!

Shortly after 10:00 AM on 8-8-12, Lupe, Lanis & SPHP headed out. Lanis drove, SPHP was navigator, and Lupe was perched on a pile of camping gear and supplies covered with blankets and pillows.

When Lupe was a little puppy, she hated riding in the car. It made her sick. Her ears drooped at just the mention of the car. It took a long time, but Lupe had outgrown her car sickness. She finally realized riding in the car meant that something fun was about to happen. Still, SPHP wondered how she would fare on a long trip.

Lupe sets out on her first ever Dingo Vacation in Lanis' Honda Element perched comfortably on a pile of blankets. — Lupe sets out on her first ever Dingo Vacation in Lanis’ Honda Element perched comfortably on a pile of blankets.

Lupe did great in the Honda Element! She was getting attention, and having a good time looking out the windows. Soon Lupe was in Wyoming heading W on I-90. She was going to the big mountains for the first time ever. Her first big mountain range would be the Bighorns in north central Wyoming.

At Gillette, WY, Lupe left I-90. She went N to Spotted Horse on Hwy 14/16. This was a slightly longer route than just staying on I-90, but SPHP was curious to see what was there. Spotted Horse turned out to be just a wide spot in the road. However, there was a little store. More importantly, there actually was a spotted horse!

Lanis went into the store to see what they had. Meanwhile, Lupe met a white and black dog. Lanis returned with ice cream bars, the first treat of the trip. Lupe was quite enthusiastic about this turn of events. She eagerly helped SPHP out.

By the time Lupe reached Sheridan, WY, it was getting to be time for something a little more substantial than an ice cream bar. Lanis and SPHP stopped, and got Subway sandwiches. Lupe would have her Taste of the Wild. At Dayton, WY, there was a park on the Tongue River. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP stopped at the park for a peaceful picnic along the clear running stream.

At least it started off as a peaceful picnic, but after a few minutes, there was the sound of machinery. It seemed to be coming from upstream. It got louder. In a couple of minutes, the source of the noise appeared – a front end loader came right down the middle of the stream carrying a boulder. Back and forth it went. The front end loader was busy retrieving and rearranging boulders in the Tongue River. Apparently nature had placed them in the wrong spot.

Lanis was rather amazed and amused by the front end loader charging up and down through the river. Somehow it just didn’t seem right. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went farther downstream to escape the noise, but the clear running river wasn’t clear any more, at least not during the picnic.

A front end loader moving boulders around in the Tongue River attended Lupe's picnic in Dayton, WY. — A front end loader moving boulders around in the Tongue River attended Lupe’s picnic in Dayton, WY. Even Lupe looks like she thinks it’s funny.

From Dayton, Lupe headed up into the Bighorn Mountains on Hwy 14. SPHP suggested going to Dead Swede campground, which is situated in a beautiful location on the Tongue River. At Dead Swede, Lupe and SPHP stayed at a campsite to claim it, while Lanis went to get a registration slip. Campground hosts came by patrolling on an ATV. They saw Lupe and SPHP standing at the empty campsite.

Right away they stopped and launched into a speech about how Lupe couldn’t be off leash, we had to pay within 30 minutes, we couldn’t do this and couldn’t do that. We had to do this and had to do that. The campground hosts claimed to be here to help us enjoy OUR national forest and wilderness experience. Then they left.

Yeah, right! SPHP has no use for Washington bureaucrats, and certainly doesn’t need them to enjoy a “wilderness” experience. Lanis was back within a few minutes with the registration slip. SPHP told him to forget it – Lupe was leaving!

Looking NE out at the high plains from one of the turnouts along Hwy 14 heading up into the Bighorn Mountains.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went on to check out the Giant Mushroom area. There were some nice views from up on a ridge there to the SE toward Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), the highest mountain in the Bighorns. There were interesting dolomite rock formations, including the Giant Mushroom. Lupe had fun exploring. The ground was pretty lumpy for camping, though. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went on to Shell Creek campground.

Lanis at the giant mushroom in the Bighorn Mountains.

SPHP had a chat with the campground hosts at Shell Creek. They were pretty cool and laid back. They didn’t care too much what happened, as long as no one complained and everyone acted responsibly. That was fine. Lanis and Lupe also approved of Shell Creek campground, which was in a beautiful spot in the upper end of Shell Canyon.

So Lanis and SPHP reserved site No. 11. Like all the other sites, it was right next to Shell Creek. Lanis and SPHP set up the tent, or Lupe’s “tiny house”. Lupe, Lanis, and SPHP all went for a walk along Shell Creek. For the first time ever, Lupe saw a moose. The moose had a calf. Mama and baby were down along the creek getting a drink. They soon sauntered off into the woods.

The moose at Shell Creek, Bighorn Mountains, WY. — Mama moose at Shell Creek, Bighorn Mountains, WY.

Back at the campsite, Lanis and SPHP made a late dinner. Lupe had some Alpo. By the time dinner was done and cleaned up, it was 10:00 PM. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP all piled into the tent. Lupe was pretty excited. She was going to spend the night out here?! This was new and different. It took her a while to settle down. She finally fell asleep to the soothing sound of the rushing waters of Shell Creek.

Now and then as she dreamed, she still twitched in excitement.

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