Robinson Mountain, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-9-21)

Part 2 of Day 4 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

12:31 PM, 52ºF – Alrighty, Looper!  I’m ready.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Lupe was ready, too.  In fact, she’d been waiting on SPHP for half an hour.  After crossing the bridge to adventure over Lake Koocanusa, it had taken a while to get here.  On the way, the sky had become overcast and rather gloomy, but the situation seemed to be improving now.

Leaving the nice grassy strip along USFS Road No. 7205 that served as trailhead parking for Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.), Loop started up a steep little bank past the only trailhead amenity, a few signs attached to a tree.  SPHP barely glanced at them.

At the trailhead along USFS Road No. 7205. Photo looks NE.
Setting out for Robinson Mountain! Photo looks NW.

Immediately beyond the signs, the trail leveled out some, first veering L before making a 180 back to the R.  In short order, it then curved back around to the SW (L) again, before heading NW up a valley.  This whole region was forested with dense undergrowth wherever sunlight could penetrate.  Although the trail was soft due to recent rain, only one little stretch was muddy.

Kind of a jungle, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, glad this trail is here, or we’d already be having quite the time of it!

Are these pink flowers fireweed, SPHP?  Looks just like the fireweed we used to see up in Canada and Alaska to me!

I’ve been thinking the same thing, Looper!  Had no idea that fireweed grew this far S, though.  Happy to see it!

Well, we’re almost to Canada, right, SPHP?

Yup, only 4 miles S of the border.  With any luck, a few hours and you’ll be looking into Canada from the top of Robinson Mountain!

In the jungle. Photo looks W.

Lupe had gone only 0.2 mile when the forest began to open up enough to see a ridge ahead.  Looked only 200 to 300 feet higher.  Climbing toward it, the trail curved S, tackling the slope at an easy angle.

First glimpse of the first ridge (R). Photo looks W.

Before getting all the way to the top of the ridge, Lupe popped out of the forest onto a grassy road.  Much sunnier here.  Dead trees could be seen higher up.  Apparently, there had been a fire.  The region near the crest of the ridge was pink with fireweed.

Hang on, Looper!  Let me check the topo map.  Ahh, good!  This must be USFS Road No. 999.  We ought to be able follow it to Trail No. 159.  Should be on the L in about 0.3 mile.

0.3 mile, SPHP?  It’s right here!

Turning NW, the American Dingo had barely gone 40 feet from where she’d reached the road.  Yet, sure enough, an unmarked trail curved SW up the fireweed infested slope.

Hmm.  Well, fine!  Take it Loop, if you want to.  The topo map does show Trail No. 159 running along the crest of this ridge.  Either this is No. 159, or it ought to lead us to it.

On USFS Road No. 999. Photo looks NW.
Heading for the ridge crest. Photo looks W.

A short, easy climb got Lupe up to a flat region on top of the ridge.

Look at this, SPHP!  Pink Paradise!  Most beautiful burnt forest ever!

Near the top of the ridge.
In Pink Paradise!

Once on top, the trail headed across the broad ridge as if it was going to go right on down the other side into the Lime Creek valley, but at the last moment turned NW before losing significant elevation.  Apparently this actually was Trail No. 159.  Lupe followed it along the upper SW side of the ridge through dead forest and thriving fireweed.  A tree-broken view of HP7158 was visible ahead.

On the upper SW side of the ridge. HP7158 (Center). Photo looks NW.

Before long, No. 159 angled back up and over to the NE side of the ridge, and began a slow descent.  Lupe was soon back at USFS Road No. 999.

OK, this must be where I expected we’d reach the trail before you found it so quickly the first time, Loop.  The topo map shows it veering off to the L again somewhere right along in here.  Keep a nose out for it!

On the ridgeline, about to start down. HP7158 (L of Center). Photo looks NNW.
Back on USFS Road No. 999 again. Photo looks NNE.

Here it is, SPHP!

This time, Lupe had gone a whole 100 feet N along No. 999 before finding the trail again.  Signs were visible on a tree just past where the trail left the road.  Upon reaching the tree, a new sign said this was Trail No. 59, not No. 159 as shown on the topo map.

The trail and USFS Road No. 999 part ways again. Photo looks N.
Did someone forget a “1”?

Hmm.  Well, who knows which number is right?  In any case, it’s gotta be the same trail.  Just keep going, Loopster!

The trail climbed only a little before leveling out.  Instead of continuing NW toward HP7158 as shown on the map, No. 159 curved NE.  Still in the dead forest so nicely decorated with fireweed, Lupe entered a region of small hills, ridges, and valleys.  After losing 40 feet of elevation crossing a ravine, there were more ups and downs.  None were significant.

Finally approaching some higher ground, Lupe came to a climb that led to more up and down past some 20 foot high rock outcroppings.  Beyond the rocks was another rise that didn’t amount to much.  Still going NE, the trail leveled out, and gradually turned N.

Patches of blue sky and breezy.  SPHP kept turning around to look back.  The Carolina Dog seemed perfectly relaxed.

In the hilly region. Photo looks NW.
Starting to climb a bit. Photo looks NE.

What’s wrong with you, SPHP?  Why so skittish?

Equipped with those big soft Dingo ears, and you don’t hear it, Loop?

Hear what?

Branches or twigs cracking, like we’re being followed!

Just the wind, SPHP.  You haven’t seen anything out there, have you?

No, I haven’t.  Never anything there when I turn around, but it sure sounds like there is, and we’ve been in windy, dead forests before.

Forget it, SPHP!  Nothing to worry about!  Except, maybe your sanity.

If you say so, Loop, but this place suddenly seems kind of creepy, even in broad daylight.  Want to know another thing that’s strange?  We’ve come all this way through a dead forest, but not a single bit of deadfall across the trail.  Nothing, nada!

You aren’t complaining, are you?

No, of course not, Loop.  Just saying.  In most dead forests there would be a ton of it.

The trail finally turned NW, beginning to climb much more steeply.  The dead forest, SPHP’s delusions, and the beautiful pink fireweed were left behind.  After gaining a good 400 feet of elevation, No. 159 turned N and flattened out at a 3-way junction.  There was a sign here.

At the junction. Photo looks SE.
Aha! So it is Trail No. 159, not just No. 59! Or, at least, it used to be.

So which way, SPHP?

Stay to the L, Looper.  Think the trail going to the R heads N to a little lake E of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.).

Beyond the junction, the trail to the L climbed a bit, leveled out again, then descended 20 feet into a ravine where Lupe came to another 3-way junction.  Right at this junction, there was a big rock that sloped at a 30 degree angle.

Which way now, SPHP?

L again, Looper, but how about a chocolate coconut bar and water break?  We can sit on that big rock.

The American Dingo was all in favor of that!

A trail marker just past the first 3-way junction. Only one of its kind along the whole route that SPHP noticed.
Past the first junction, climbing toward the next one. Photo looks NNW.
At chocolate coconut bar rock! Photo looks ENE.

Chocolate coconut bars have an extremely short half-life when a Carolina Dog has anything to say about it.  Lupe was soon back at it.  Taking the trail to the L (W), she passed a sign that was visible from the junction confirming that this was the right way to go.  Beyond the sign, Trail No. 159 sloped gradually down into a dense, gloomy forest.

Leaving the second 3-way junction. Photo looks W.

Loop wasn’t far into the gloomy forest when the trail bottomed out and began a steep climb.  Soon running water could be heard in a thicket L of the trail.  No stream could be seen from the trail, even though it proved to be merely 6 or 7 feet away when the American Dingo conducted an investigation.

Trail No. 159 climbed only a little more before leveling out at the lower end of a big bowl.  A high ridge was visible at the upper end.

On the flat stretch leading into the bowl. Photo looks W.

As Lupe ventured farther and farther into the bowl, she broke out of the live forest into another region that had burned.  The trail began to climb faster and faster, straight up the slope leading to the ridge ahead.  Lupe raced away to bark at squirrels, while SPHP trudged higher.

A couple of long, gentle switchbacks made the last part of this ascent much easier than the direct attack.  The Carolina Dog was nearly up to the ridgeline when Robinson Mountain came into sight for the first time.

Among the burnt trees of the bowl with a considerable climb yet to reach the ridgeline. Photo looks NW.
On the first switchback. Photo looks N.
Second switchback. Photo looks SW.
Almost to the ridgeline. Robinson Mountain (L of Center), HP7158 (R). Photo looks NW.

Trail No. 159 brought Lupe to the top of the ridge at the saddle between HP7069 and HP7158.  This region had burned fiercely.  After crossing the saddle, the trail remained level as Looper traversed HP7158‘s SW slope, making a beeline for Robinson Mountain, now only 0.75 mile NW.

The American Dingo was soon at the base of the final ascent.  Only 600 feet of elevation gain left to go!

Robinson Mountain (Center) from the saddle region. Photo looks NW.
Traversing HP7158‘s SW slope. Robinson Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Passing a Spook Tree. Photo looks W.
Approaching the final ascent. Photo looks NW.

Upon reaching the saddle between Robinson Mountain and Peak 7158, the trail curved R and went through a little gap.  Robinson Mountain’s steep, rocky E face was now in view, along with an enormous amount of territory off to the NE.  Here the trail turned NW again, starting up Robinson Mountain’s SE ridge.

Robinson Mountain’s E face from the SE ridge. Photo looks N.
Another look from a little higher up. Photo looks NNE.

A few hundred feet below the summit, Trail No. 159 veered off to the W, leaving the SE ridge.  Braving a chilly SW breeze beneath a leaden sky, Lupe followed switchbacks up Robinson Mountain’s S slope.  Looked like it might rain at any moment, but didn’t.

A small building could be seen up on the summit.  Each switchback got Loop closer to it.  Final approach was from the W.  Lupe came to a large cairn shortly before reaching the old lookout.

The trail veers off to the L (W) here, leaving the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.
On the upper S slope. Photo looks SW.
By the big cairn. Photo looks E.

A brief inspection of the cairn revealed nothing of particular interest, so Lupe proceeded on to the old lookout.  A rock W of the building proved to be the true summit of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.).  This rock bore a survey benchmark, which disappointingly did not have “Robinson” or the elevation stamped into it.

The sky remained quite cloudy, and the air was hazy.  Whether the haze was due to smoke, humidity, or some combination thereof, was hard to say.  Mount Henry (7,243 ft.) was in sight to the SW, but whatever lay beyond it was indistinct.

At the true summit. Mount Henry (Center). Photo looks SW.
Survey benchmark.

After a quick look at the views from the true summit, Looper retreated to the N side of the lookout seeking shelter from the cold wind.  Curling up on SPHP’s lap, she faced N.  Down a slope to the NE, an outhouse was visible among stunted trees.  Mountains stretched away toward a murky horizon.  The tallest was almost as high as Robinson Mountain.

What mountain is that, SPHP?

Probably Mount Fitzpatrick (7,328 ft.), Loop, 1.25 miles into Canada!

Canada!

Told you that you would get to see Canada today!

Wow, we’re that close!   We really could walk into Canada, couldn’t we?

Yeah, but we wouldn’t get very far.  Might as well enjoy it from here.

Speaking of enjoy, do you happen to have another chocolate coconut bar in the pack, SPHP?

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP sat there gazing into Canada.  Taste of the Wild and water followed the last chocolate coconut bar into oblivion, while SPHP had a fruit cup and Mott’s blueberry applesauce.

N side of the lookout. Photo looks SSW.
Mount Fitzpatrick (L). Photo looks N.

Well, SPHP, since we’re not going to Canada, you about ready for a tour of Robinson Mountain’s summit?

Might as well, Loop!

The E end of the summit region dropped away 50 feet from the lookout.  HP7158 and HP7069, which Lupe had gone between on the way up, were both in sight to the SE.  All the terrain directly E or NE was much lower.  Pretty hazy that way, but Lake Koocanusa was discernable.

HP7158 (L) and HP7069 (R) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.
Lake Koocanusa, faintly near the horizon. Photo looks E.

Turning back W, a door was visible on the E side of the lookout.

Try it, SPHP!

E side of the lookout. Photo looks W.

Unlocked!  The Carolina Dog ventured in.

A spartan interior greeted Lupe.  Small, as had been apparent from the outside.  A broom, a metal ladder, plus a wooden one going up to the loft.  Other than that, some firewood, and a little woodstove.  Near the woodstove, a white plastic jug suspended by a rope contained a registry.

Inside the lookout.
The woodstove and suspended summit registry jug.

Apparently, Robinson Mountain is a popular destination.  The registry was full of names.

Whoa!  We aren’t even the first ones up here today, Looper!

We aren’t?

Not even close!  We’re 11th and 12th!  The Troyers, Planks, and a Miller have already come and gone.  All from Nappanee, Indiana.

Really?  They must have started a lot earlier, because we haven’t seen anyone.

Guess so, Loop.  We’ve lucked out compared to them, though!  Listen to this entry by the Troyers – “First time to Rexford, beautiful!  Great hike – wish we could have seen more.  Very foggy – windy – cold & damp!” 

Hah!  Good thing we stopped at the Ross Creek Giant Cedars this morning, SPHP.  Sometimes being the early Dingo isn’t the best!

SPHP entered Lupe’s name into the registry.  Not much else to do in here except shelter from the wind, so it was back to the summit tour.  After leaving the lookout, Loop returned to the cairn for another look W.  In addition to Mount Henry off to the SW, Caribou Mountain (6,844 ft.) stood out to the NW.

Mount Henry (L). Photo looks SW.
Caribou Mountain (R). Photo looks W.

Finishing her tour, Loopster explored the region down by the outhouse.  Highlights, if you could call them that, included a blue wheelbarrow, and a hitching post and railing.

The summit from down by the outhouse. Photo looks SW.

Then it was back up to the lookout, and a last visit to the true summit, before it was time to go.

Back at the lookout. Photo looks SW.
Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks SW.

5:00 PM, 45ºF, Robinson Mountain – 65 minutes after arriving, Loopster was back at the big cairn.  Her time here was about up, but SPHP let the American Dingo relax for a few moments.  Canada!  Glorious Canada was in sight only a couple of miles away.  Tantalizingly real, yet only a dream as far as this Dingo Vacation was going to go.

Back by the big cairn. Photo looks NE.

Gazing N, spellbound, into a dreamlike haze toward Mount Fitzpatrick.  Canada, right there!  And almost forever beyond the horizon, Alaska!

Reality.

Plenty of time to get back before dark.  Easy, fun return.  It was time.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

To Pink Paradise and beyond, SPHP!

Another adventure tomorrow.  (End 7:24 PM, 66ºF)

Mount Fitzpatrick from Robinson Mountain, Purcell Mountains, Montana 8-9-21

Links:

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GPS track by Mark Akers (8-31-21)

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Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars & Lake Koocanusa (8-9-21)

Part 1 of Day 4 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Morning, Hwy 56, NW Montana

Hey, Loop!  We’re close to the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars!  Just saw a sign.  Want to stop?

Weren’t we there with Lanis way back on my first ever Dingo Vacation in 2012?

That’s right, we were!  Won’t take long to have another look.  The loop trail is only about a mile, if memory serves, and almost perfectly flat.

Why not, then?  Let’s do it, SPHP!

Turning W off Hwy 56 at a signed junction, a paved road wound 4 miles through an increasingly impressive forest.  Only 7:39 AM.  Not a soul was around when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 at an end of road parking lot.

Arriving at the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars parking lot. One of two.

Awesome!  We’ve got the whole place to ourselves, SPHP!

Perfect!  Let’s have a look around while we can enjoy the tranquility of the ancient cedars, Looper.

Ross Creek Nature Trail No. 405 left the parking lot as a short boardwalk that immediately led to wide dirt path.  Already in a cedar forest, Lupe checked for squirrels, but didn’t see any right away.  The trees were big, and very tall, but still seemed to be about normal size.  The path went by some rocks along the lower bound of the broad Ross Creek valley.

Setting out along Ross Creek Nature Trail No. 405.

Various placards were posted along the trail, some showing their age.  SPHP glanced at a few, but mostly just followed Lupe through the forest.  The trail soon veered away from the edge of the valley, crossing a couple of boardwalk bridges over small creeks, as it led deeper into the forest.

The creeks were bone dry.

On the boardwalk bridges.

Severe drought every summer out W, SPHP!  Can’t be good for the giant cedars, can it?

I wouldn’t think so, Looper, but who knows?  Maybe their root systems go super deep, and the giant cedars are actually better adapted to drought than one might think?

They seem like rain forest trees to me, SPHP.  Don’t huge trees need huge quantities of water?  After all, they’re growing by what’s supposed to be a stream!  That’s no accident, is it?

You’re probably right, Loop.  I just don’t know.  I suppose I ought to read more of these placards.  Maybe they say something about that, but while we’ve got the giant cedars to ourselves, seems more fun to simply enjoy wandering among them.  Maybe there’s more water underground here than we realize?

Continuing on, the American Dingo came to the first of the giant cedars.  Sadly, it was dead.  Just an enormous rotting stump.

By the enormous rotting stump.

The giant cedars weren’t all dead, though.  Lupe soon started coming to live ones.  The base of their trunks looked like tentacles burrowing into the earth.

The tentacled trunk of a live giant cedar.
Gotta be a giant squirrel somewhere up there!

Reaching a grove of giants, Trail No. 405 divided.  This was the start of the loop part.  The Carolina Dog went R, going counter-clockwise around the loop.  Although most of the cedars were relatively young, there were many giants among them.  The trail went past some that had died and fallen.  Loopster scrambled up on a couple of them.

On a fallen giant.
Thank heavens we don’t face deadfall like this back at home in the Black Hills!

How old do you suppose these giant cedars are, SPHP?

Oh, not entirely sure, Loop, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if some of them weren’t at least 500 years old.  The oldest ones might be close to 1,000!  Saplings back in the Dark Ages, if you can imagine that!

Wow!  Incredible!  Just think how wild it would have been here back then, SPHP!  The days of saber-toothed Dingoes!

Saber-toothed Dingoes?  Sounds kind of far-fetched, Loopster.

Not at all, SPHP!  We Dingoes ruled the earth, you know!  Still do!

That, I can believe.  Feel sort of ruled by one myself much of the time.

Hey, look, SPHP!  There’s a Siamese cedar!

Oh, c’mon.  A feline cedar?

It was true!

By the Siamese giant cedar.

Oh, OK!  Joined at the trunk.  I suppose they are Siamese giant cedars.  Must not have started out that way, though.

They’ve been this way for a long time, SPHP.

Nothing makes a forest feel as ancient as giant trees and ferns!  Plenty of ferns added to the giant cedars’ prehistoric ambiance.  Maybe keeping an eye out for saber-toothed Dingoes wasn’t such a bad idea?

Ferns – lots of ’em, for that primeval, prehistoric look.

At the far end of the Nature Trail No. 405 loop, Ross Creek Trail No. 142 took off continuing up the valley.  No telling how far it went, or where, or how much farther the giant cedars themselves extended.

Want to explore it, SPHP?

So many trails, and so little time, Looper!  Yeah, I would love to, but we’ve got a mountain to climb yet today, so I guess we’ll have to pass.  Can’t do everything.

Aww!  We haven’t seen even a single giant squirrel yet!

That may be for the best, Loop.  Might still be a saber-toothed squirrel or two lurking around here somewhere.  We’d be in for it then!

Near the end of the loop, Lupe came to a dry riverbed.  Ross Creek, or perhaps just a former channel?  The riverbed was full of cairns.

At the Ross Creek cairns.

Oh, I remember this!  We saw these cairns 9 years ago when we were here with Lanis, remember, SPHP?

Yeah, that’s right!  We did!  Always assumed they would get washed away in the spring, though.  Surprised to see them again.  Maybe rebuilding them is some sort of a tradition for the locals?

No one to ask about that.  The forest was still quiet.  Moving on, Lupe completed the loop, and headed back.  Less an hour had gone by when she reached the RAV4 again.  Still no one else around.

Returning to the start.
Back at the parking lot, contending with the summer morning throng.

A stream near the parking lot had the only water the Carolina Dog had seen at the giant cedars.  Naturally, Loop had to sample some for herself.

Don’t get carried away, Looper!  Leave some for the giant cedars!

The Ross Creek Giant Cedars had been a fun way to start the day, but Lupe still had big plans for this afternoon.  Returning to Hwy 56, SPHP drove N to Hwy 2, then E to Libby.  Taking Hwy 37 N out of Libby toward Rexford, another highlight worth a stop was soon reached, the Libby Dam on the Kootenai River that forms Lake Koocanusa.

Arriving at the Libby Dam.
The dam itself.
A downstream view.

After a look at the dam, Loopster checked out Lake Koocanusa.  Near the dam, the lake was less than a mile wide, but to the N it stretched away until completely lost from sight.

Lake Koocanusa.

How far does Lake Koocanusa go, SPHP?

90 miles, Looper!  All the way into Canada, like the name implies.

Canada!  Are we that close to Canada, SPHP?

Yup.

Oh, I wish we could go up into Canada and Alaska!

Me, too, Looper!  Actually, the Canadian border opens today for tourism.  If they’d opened it a little earlier in the season, we might already be way up into Canada.  Too bad they didn’t open a month earlier, or at the very least announce it before the last minute.

You mean we could go to Canada today, SPHP?  Why don’t we?

Technically, yes, but we’re not ready for it, because they gave no clue that they were going to open the border until very recently.  There are rules we haven’t complied with yet.  Besides, they change everything so often, I don’t trust them not to change the rules again without warning.  No sense in getting ourselves stranded up there with no way to get back.

This will be the second year in a row we’ve missed out then, SPHP.  I’ve probably been deposed as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by now.  Can’t say I’d blame them, either.

Be that as it may, that’s the way the cookie crumbles these days, Loop.  We aren’t going to get to go into Canada on this Dingo Vacation, but you’ll at least get to see it.

I will?  When?

Today!  Somewhere up ahead there’s a bridge to adventure over this lake, and we’re gonna take it!

It might have been 30 miles, but before the RAV4 reached Rexford, a bridge over Lake Koocanusa did appear ahead.  SPHP parked twice at different spots, so the American Dingo could have a look.

Approaching the bridge to adventure!

Where does the bridge go, SPHP?

Over to far NW Montana, Looper.  On your next adventure we’ll be setting out so close to the Canadian border we could walk across!

Will we do that?

Uh, no.  You’d just want to go clear to the Yukon, and it’s a heck of a trek.

Well, wherever we’re going, SPHP, let’s get started!

Piling back into the RAV4 again, SPHP turned the key.  Moments later, Lupe was cruising in comfort across the bridge to adventure on her way to the next big thing.

Lake Koocanusa and the bridge to adventure, Montana 8-9-21

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Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia (8-2-17)

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