Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 113 – The Search for Thrall Mountain (1-1-15)

Lupe was very surprised – and enthusiastic, when on the very first day of 2015, SPHP suggested another Black Hills, SD Expedition.  Just yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had gone on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 112 to New Year’s Eve Peak (6,046 ft.), Lupe’s last expedition of 2014.

However, the weather was cooperative, and SPHP figured nothing helps break the sadness of the passing of another year like a good start to the next one.  So, on New Year’s Day 2015, at 11:02 AM (38°F), SPHP parked the G6 at the Pactola Reservoir Visitor Center along Hwy 385 near the S end of the dam.

Lupe arrives at Pactola Reservoir to start out New Year 2015 right with one of her Black Hills, SD Expeditions. Pactola Reservoir is the largest lake in the Black Hills.
Lupe arrives at Pactola Reservoir to start out New Year 2015 right with one of her Black Hills, SD Expeditions. Pactola Reservoir is the largest lake in the Black Hills.

Lupe at Pactola Lake, 1-1-15Lupe’s peakbagging goal for the day was Thrall Mountain (5,091 ft.).  Thrall Mountain didn’t seem like a very ambitious goal, since it lies just a little over 2 miles E of Pactola near Johnson Siding.  Even on a short winter day, Lupe should have plenty of time to romp in the snow, and still make her goal.

Lupe and SPHP started out crossing Hwy 385 to the E.  Right away, Lupe turned S to climb a forested ridge, which soon ended near McGurdy Gulch.  Lupe and SPHP came down off the ridge to follow USFS Road No. 165.1B heading SE up McGurdy Gulch to a saddle at the highest point on the road.  From there, Lupe left the road and turned NE, still climbing through a snowy forest to reach a couple of minor high points of similar elevation.

Wandering NE, Lupe and SPHP came to a Centennial Trail No. 89 marker.  With the trail hidden under up to 6″ of trackless snow, if it hadn’t been for the marker, SPHP wouldn’t have known the trail was there.  Lupe and SPHP were somewhere in the saddle area between Tamarack Gulch to the N, and Gold Standard Gulch to the SE.  Thrall Mountain was still close to 2 miles to the NE.

Lupe and SPHP crossed Centennial Trail No. 89 intending to continue NE, but soon steep terrain in that direction forced Lupe more to the E in order to stay on relatively high ground.  The going was somewhat slow in the snowy forest for SPHP, so when Lupe came to a road heading ESE, Lupe and SPHP took it, even though it was losing elevation slowly.

SPHP didn’t immediately realize the road was USFS Road No. 727.1A.  It was taking Lupe down into Gold Standard Gulch.  It wasn’t until a little later on when SPHP noticed another Centennial Trail No. 89 marker off in the forest about 25 feet S of the road, that SPHP realized Lupe was in Gold Standard Gulch.

Lupe was actually not far from where she needed to go to reach Thrall Mountain.  She just needed to get across the ridge to the NE and over to the upper end of Powerhouse Gulch, which wouldn’t have been hard to do.  However, SPHP made a major mistake and did not check the maps.  Lupe and SPHP continued on down Gold Standard Gulch, which gradually turned more to the S, taking Lupe farther away from Thrall Mountain.

When Prairie Creek entered Gold Standard Gulch from a side valley, the going got tougher.  The road forded Prairie Creek 4 or 5 times.  Prairie Creek isn’t very big, just a few feet wide and only a foot or two deep most places.  Ordinarily, crossing it is easy, but the creek was lightly frozen over.  It wasn’t possible to see where or how deep the water was, and the banks were slippery and hidden by snow.

The ice over Prairie Creek barely supported Lupe’s weight.  At one of the crossings, she almost got dunked twice before she could leap to safety, as the ice cracked and sank beneath her.  SPHP had to search for particularly narrow sections of the creek in order to cross without getting wet.  Tromping through the snow with soaking wet feet wouldn’t have been a good thing in January.

When Prairie Creek reached Brush Creek at USFS Road No. 772.2, SPHP finally checked the maps.  A lot of time had gone by, and Lupe was still nearly 2 miles away from Thrall Mountain, which was now almost due N.  Lupe was hardly any closer to Thrall Mountain than she had been at the very start of the expedition at the Pactola Reservoir Visitor Center!  SPHP now realized what an error it had been to follow Gold Standard Gulch so far.  Lupe and SPHP went E a short distance toward gentler terrain before leaving the road to turn N.

Lupe and SPHP wandered NNE through the forest.  Along the way, Lupe came to a couple of unidentified minor roads which she followed for short stretches before they turned off in wrong directions.  The terrain wasn’t very steep, and Lupe had fun roaming the snow-filled forest.  Lupe and SPHP crossed another mysterious snowy road (probably No. 772.1E) to reach the top of a small ridge.  On the other side, the land dropped off steeply.  There was a view to the NE.  Nothing in that direction looked high enough to be Thrall Mountain.

Lupe and SPHP followed the small ridge NW.  Occasionally there was a glimpse through the trees of a high point to the N that barely stuck up over some intervening hills.  That high point was probably Thrall Mountain, but it was hard to tell for certain.  The ridge ended.  Lupe and SPHP had to backtrack a little bit, and turn SW to start dropping down into a draw.  The draw led Lupe NW and then N, losing elevation the whole way.

Down in the draw, there were faint signs of an old abandoned road.  A tangle of dead trees greeted Lupe at the lower end of the draw.  Once past the tangle, the faint road continued until it met up with a better road in a much larger valley the draw fed into.  Time for a break.  Lupe and SPHP shared a chocolate granola bar.  It only made Lupe realize how famished she was.  She followed up the granola bar by devouring most of the Taste of the Wild supply.

SPHP checked the maps.  This big valley was almost certainly Powerhouse Gulch.  In that case, the better road Lupe had just found here was USFS Road No. 772.1.  Lupe and SPHP followed the road NW.  Pretty soon No. 772.1 turned S at an intersection with USFS Road No. 772.1B.  Although No. 772.1 was unmarked at this intersection, there was a marker for No. 772.1B, which continued NW up Powerhouse Gulch.

Lupe was now only 1 mile S of Thrall Mountain!  However, there was a new problem.  The sun, seen only as a faint glow in the overcast sky, was getting lower.  Sunset was at most 2 hours, more likely just 1.5 hours, away.  Although SPHP was confident that there was still plenty of time for Lupe to find and climb Thrall Mountain, it would almost certainly get very dark well before she could get back to the G6, even by the most direct route.

SPHP checked the maps again.  Although they showed No. 772.1B going NW up Powerhouse Gulch, and then continuing on to Tamarack Gulch not too far from Pactola Reservoir, SPHP and Lupe had never been on this road before.  Lots of minor roads in the Black Hills aren’t really as shown on the maps.  It’s not uncommon for them to dead end, be blocked or nearly impassable due to deadfall timber, or have lots of confusing side roads.

There was no sense starting New Year 2015 off by getting lost on a cold, dark winter night.  Expedition No. 112 was just going to have to be chalked up as an exploratory one.  Lupe had gotten close, but she wasn’t going to get to climb Thrall Mountain today after all.  Lupe and SPHP continued NW on up Powerhouse Gulch on USFS Road No. 772.1B.

As it turned out, it was a good decision.  In daylight, Lupe and SPHP didn’t get off on No. 772.1C by mistake where No. 772.1B unexpectedly dropped over an embankment at the intersection, which would have been very easy to do in the dark.  Even with the advantage of daylight, a little farther on SPHP managed to lead Lupe onto a side road.  It eventually dead ended high up on a steep rocky slope.  In the light, it was easy to go back and find the right road.

Lupe on USFS Road No. 772.1B, already W of Powerhouse Gulch on her way back to the G6. There were no other tracks in the snow.
Lupe on USFS Road No. 772.1B, already W of Powerhouse Gulch on her way back to the G6. There were no other tracks in the snow.

Up ahead, the Pactola Reservoir dam came into view.  Lupe and SPHP crossed Centennial Trail No. 89 again, not far from the Tamarack Gulch trailhead.  Lupe pressed on to McGurdy Gulch road, this time farther N than where she had reached it early in the day.  Soon she was climbing up the S end of Pactola Reservoir dam.  She reached Hwy 385 at the top of the dam.  The Pactola Reservoir Visitor Center and the G6 were in view right across the road.

The sun was just setting.  A small break in the clouds allowed the colored rays of sunset to burst through for just a few minutes.  The first day of 2015 was ending.  From a peakbagging standpoint, Lupe’s first expedition of 2015 was a failure.  She never even really saw Thrall Mountain.

Lupe returns to the Pactola Reservoir Visitor Center just in time for sunset on New Year's Day 2015. The beautiful sunset lasted only a few minutes.
Lupe returns to the Pactola Reservoir Visitor Center just in time for sunset on New Year’s Day 2015. The beautiful sunset lasted only a few minutes.

But Lupe had a wonderful day roaming the Black Hills.  She explored many pretty places in the quiet snowy woods she had never been to before, some of which she might never see again.  Best of all, Lupe and SPHP had spent the day together, doing what American Dingoes love to do.  And, of course, Lupe would return to climb Thrall Mountain another day!

Pactola Reservoir and Scruton Mountain (5,922 feet - the highest point just L of the center of photo). The Seth Bullock Lookout Tower is on Scruton Mountain.
Pactola Reservoir and Scruton Mountain (5,922 feet) – the highest point just L of the center of photo). The Seth Bullock Lookout Tower is on Scruton Mountain.

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To the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River (8-10-12)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Lupe was somersaulting again against the door of her “tiny house”.  She still hadn’t figured out that she couldn’t go through the tent door when it was zipped shut, but it had only been her second night ever in a tent.  A squirrel was chattering away in a tree outside.  Lupe wanted to go bark at it, but it was very early.  Lanis was still asleep in the Honda Element, after his gear got soaked in a sudden downpour the previous evening.

Lanis isn’t much of a morning person.  SPHP figured he would sleep for several more hours.  This was an opportunity for Lupe to return to Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP had climbed Bald Mountain the evening before, only to be almost immediately chased off of it by a brief intense rain shower.  It wasn’t going to rain now, though.  Lupe and SPHP left the squirrel and the campground in peace, and climbed Bald Mountain again.

After searching around on top of the mountain, SPHP had almost given up.  Then, suddenly, there they were.  Lupe had found the names that had been up there for a quarter century or more now.  The names were just made out of loose rocks, but they were still easily recognizable.  SPHP spent a little time repairing them.

SPHP wanted to add Lupe’s name to the mountain, but so much time had been lost looking around, it was probably best to get back down to the campground before Lanis awoke to find himself alone.  It would take too much time to search around for some rocks to use.  So Lupe and SPHP went down Bald Mountain enjoying the panoramic views, sunshine and fresh air.

(Just 11 months later, Lupe returned to spend a night on Bald Mountain and SPHP added her name then.)

SPHP needn’t have worried.  Lanis was still sound asleep when Lupe returned.  After having been responsible for getting Lanis’ gear wet the night before, SPHP wasn’t eager to further aggravate him by waking him up.  Lupe and SPHP stayed busy in camp.  Lanis eventually came to on his own.  He was in a better mood than when he’d gone to sleep in the Element.

It was time for Lupe to leave the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming and head farther W.  The sun was much higher now.  Lanis and SPHP dried things out while Lupe sniffed around.  Pretty soon things were dry enough to pack them back in the Honda Element, and Lupe, Lanis and SPHP were underway.

Lanis drove W out of the Bighorns on steep, windy Hwy 14A.  The route continued through Lovell, Powell and Cody, WY.  From Cody, Lupe went N on Hwy 120 to Hwy 296, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.  The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway lived up to its name.  The road wound high up over a lofty pass.  At a pullout on the W side of the pass, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP got out for a look.

View from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Photo looks W from the pullout near the pass.
View from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Photo looks W from the pullout near the pass.

The view was most impressive, but there was a chilly wind.  It looked rather stormy on the W side of the pass.  Lupe hadn’t been at the pullout long when a cold rain began to fall.  American Dingoes do have the good sense to come in out of the rain.  Lanis and SPHP quickly joined Lupe in the Honda Element.  Lupe’s journey continued down the winding highway on the W side of the pass.

The rain eventually stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.  The St. Joseph Scenic Byway led to the Beartooth Hwy (No. 212).  The Beartooth Highway goes NE over spectacular Beartooth Pass on its way to Red Lodge, MT, but Lupe wasn’t going that way yet.  Instead Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed W on the Beartooth Highway toward Cooke City, MT.

A side road off the St. Joseph Scenic Byway. The rain had stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.
A side road off the St. Joseph Scenic Byway. The rain had stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.

Lanis and SPHP were looking for a campsite along the way.  There were some campgrounds, but SPHP was picky and found nothing that looked quite right before reaching Cooke City, MT.  Along the way, Montana became the 3rd U.S. Lupe state!

Cooke City, MT is basically a one street tourist town strategically situated 5 miles from the NE entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  After looking around town just a little bit, it was time to get more serious about finding a campsite.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed back E on the Beartooth Hwy.  This time Lanis was driving slower to allow for a more complete reconnaissance of the possibilities.

Not long after entering Wyoming again, Lanis and SPHP saw a turn to a little parking lot just N of the highway.  A pickup truck with a camper was parked there close to a bend in a very beautiful river just 200 feet from the highway.   It looked like a great dispersed camping site.  Lanis pulled in off the highway.  Everyone piled out of the Element to check things out.

This bend in the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe's stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R).
This bend in the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe’s stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R).
This small waterfall or rapid was just downstream of the bend in the river.
This small waterfall or rapid was just downstream of the bend in the river.
Lanis is liking what he sees.
Lanis is liking what he sees.

Unknown to Lupe, Lanis and SPHP at the time, the river was the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.  This gorgeous site would become home base for the entire time Lupe spent in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation.  The bend in the river offered a terrific view of the dramatic spire of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and its neighbor Index Peak (11,240 ft.) to the NW.  Just downstream of the bend, was a small waterfall or rapid with a nice pool of clear, cold water below it.

The reconnaissance downstream quickly met with the approval of Lupe, Lanis and SPHP.  A walk upstream through a wooded area to a field next to the river followed.  After being cooped up in the Honda Element a good part of the day, Lupe was so stirred up by the wild river and glorious surroundings, she got a crazed look in her eye.  She pranced and growled and demonstrated just how ferociously prepared American Dingoes are for life in the wilderness.

Lanis has an eye for detail and took this shot of some mossy lichens growing on a rotting log near the river.
Lanis has an eye for detail and took this shot of some mossy lichens growing on a rotting log near the river.
Squirrels, schmirrels! Lupe feeling ready to take on elk, moose, grizzly bears and anything else the Beartooths can throw at her!
Squirrels, schmirrels! Lupe feeling ready to take on elk, moose, grizzly bears and anything else the Beartooths can throw at her!
And then I'll crack their bones like this!
And then I’ll crack their bones like this!

Returning to the bend in the river, SPHP had a chat with the other campers there, who already occupied the best site right next to the river.  They told SPHP about a waterfall worth seeing just a mile or two to the E.  The falls were up a short trail on the N side of the Beartooth Hwy.  Why not check that out, too?  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP hopped back in the Element to go find the waterfall.

As promised, a short, but steep hike up a trail led to a roaring torrent on Crazy Creek.  The stream was strewn with logs.  The falls were large, but this wasn’t really a classic straight down over an edge type of waterfall.  It was too steep to be just rapids either.  A better name is Crazy Creek Cascade.  Lupe,  Lanis and SPHP followed the trail all the way up to the top of the falls.

 

Crazy Creek Cascade. This waterfall was up a short, but steep climb N of the Beartooth Hwy.
Crazy Creek Cascade. This waterfall was up a short, but steep climb N of the Beartooth Hwy.
Lupe at Crazy Creek just above the big cascade.
Lupe at Crazy Creek just above the big cascade.
Lanis at Crazy Creek.
Lanis at Crazy Creek.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP played around on the rocks next to Crazy Creek just above the cascade until it started getting dark.  Time to head back to the Element, and the great campsite on the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.

When Lupe returned, the sky was still overcast.  In fact, the clouds were darker and denser than before.  It looked like it would almost certainly rain overnight.  It didn’t seem to make any sense to set up the tent, which would surely leak if it rained hard enough.  Lanis was going to have company in the Element tonight.  Outside the rain began.

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