American Dingo – Page 244 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mt. St. Helens, Dismal Nitch, & the Dead Fish Dingo, Washington (8-24-12)

Day 17 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Once again, Lupe and SPHP were up before Lanis. Lupe soon found the Loop Trail, which runs entirely around the Iron Creek campground, NE of Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. Iron Creek campground is located in an amazing mossy forest of huge Douglas firs. Before it was time to head to Mt. St. Helens, Lupe and SPHP wanted to explore the Loop Trail, and see it all.

Iron Creek campground, Washington state.

The trail was in good condition. Lupe, as always, was an enthusiastic explorer. She sniffed ferns, and jumped up on giant mossy logs laying on forest floor, using the logs as her own private green-cushioned Dingo trails. If there were any squirrels, Lupe wasn’t finding them. They may have been up in the stratosphere of the towering tree tops.

The N and NE sides of the Loop Trail went along a lovely blue river, the Cispus. The water of the Cispus sparkled in the morning light. Not far from the Cispus, on the W side of the Loop Trail, were signs next to two huge Douglas firs. The little tree was 280 feet high, had an 8 foot diameter trunk, and was 600 years old. The biggest one was 285 feet high, had an 8 foot 2 inch diameter trunk, and was also 600 years old.

These trees were already 80 years old when Columbus set sail for America! It was hard to imagine they had been standing here all that time. Both trees were still alive, and looked to be in good condition. The forest was full of Douglas firs that looked almost as huge and ancient as these two. Iron Creek campground was a pretty amazing place!

Lupe and SPHP completed their journey around the entire Loop Trail. Lanis was up, when Lupe arrived back at her tiny house. It was time to leave for Mt. St. Helens (8,333 ft.)! A long, winding paved road took Lupe up through a dense forest to the E entrance of Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. Lanis parked the Element at the first overlook in the monument with a view toward Mt. St. Helens.

Lupe, sporting big soft Dingo ears, with Lanis at the first overlook in Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.

Mt. St. Helens is poking up in the distance. Yeah, thinking maybe Lanis would look better sporting big soft Dingo ears, too! They'd probably be useful for his music, too. — Mt. St. Helens is poking up in the distance. Yeah, thinking maybe Lanis would look better sporting big soft Dingo ears, too! They’d probably be useful for his music, too.

From the first viewpoint using a telephoto lens.

Lanis and SPHP started reading some plaques at the overlook showing pictures of the eruption of Mt. St. Helens on May 18, 1980. Amazingly, the man who took those very photos, Gary Rosenquist, showed up while Lupe was at the overlook!

Gary Rosenquist, Lanis and Lupe. Gary had taken the photos of Mt. St. Helens' cataclysmic eruption on May 18, 1980 featured on the plaques Lanis and SPHP had been reading! — Gary Rosenquist, Lanis and Lupe. Gary had taken the photos of Mt. St. Helens’ cataclysmic eruption on May 18, 1980 featured on the plaques Lanis and SPHP had been reading!

Lupe got to meet Mr. Rosenquist. Lanis and SPHP got to chat with him for a while about his experience photographing the Mt. St. Helens eruption, and then fleeing for his life from the falling ash. Mr. Rosenquist said he still likes to visit Mt. St. Helens fairly frequently.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP continued on the road toward viewpoints closer to Mt. St. Helens. From one of them, there were some great views of Spirit Lake. The 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens was so powerful, it created a wave of water from Spirit Lake that went as high as 850 feet up the mountains on the N side of the lake. Debris blocked the outlet to the lake, and the water level rose about 200 feet above its prior elevation. The surface area of Spirit Lake is now about 2,200 acres compared to only 1,300 acres before.

Spirit Lake is N of Mt. St. Helens. The outlet from the lake was blocked by debris from the collapsed mountainside. The water level was stabilized by engineers at a level 200 feet higher than before the May, 1980 eruption.

The eruption of Mt. St. Helens stripped away 230 square miles of forest. Many thousands of trees were flung into Spirit Lake. More than 32 years later, thousands of tree trunks were still floating in giant mats on the lake.

The road ended at a final viewpoint, still quite a distance from the volcano. From here it was possible to get a very good view of the huge debris flow extending down to Spirit Lake formed by the collapse of the former N slopes of Mt. St. Helens as the volcano erupted.

Shown here is the debris flow that blocked Spirit Lake at the part of the lake closest to the mountain.

Mt. St. Helens as seen from the last viewpoint at the end of the road coming in from the E side of the national monument. The May 18, 1980 volcanic eruption reduced the elevation of Mt. St. Helen's summit from 9,677 feet to 8,363 feet when the N side of the mountain collapsed. — Mt. St. Helens as seen from the last viewpoint at the end of the road coming in from the E side of the national monument. The May 18, 1980 volcanic eruption reduced the elevation of Mt. St. Helen’s summit from 9,677 feet to 8,363 feet when the N side of the mountain collapsed.

At the last viewpoint, there was a set of stairs climbing up a steep hill above the parking area. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went up to the top of the hill for a better view.

From the hill, it was possible to get a better look not only at Mt. St. Helens, but also see Mt. Adams (12,276 ft.) and Mt. Hood (11,239 ft.) in the distance. Lupe even got to see Mt. Rainier (14,411 ft.), after all, despite having missed seeing it due to cloud cover the day before. The summit of Mt. Rainier was peaking up over the ridge beyond Spirit Lake.

Mt. Adams, seen here, is 34 miles E of Mt. St. Helens. Mt. Hood is 60 miles SSE. Lupe could see Mt. Hood, but it was too far away to show up well in a photograph under the prevailing light conditions while Lupe was near Mt. St. Helens. — Mt. Adams, seen here, is 34 miles E of Mt. St. Helens. Mt. Hood is 60 miles SSE. Lupe could see Mt. Hood, but it was too far away to show up well in a photograph.

Lupe did get to see the summit of Mt. Rainier after all! Here it is poking above the mountain ridges beyond Spirit Lake. — Lupe did get to see the summit of Mt. Rainier, after all! Here it is poking above the mountain ridges beyond Spirit Lake.

At the top of the hill above the final viewpoint, there was a trail leading one mile back to the best viewpoint over Spirit Lake. The trail was high up on the side of the mountain facing Spirit Lake, so it was bound to be a very scenic path. Lanis didn’t feel like taking the trail, but Lupe and SPHP did.

The one mile trail was very scenic, and did have great views of Spirit Lake, but at one point there was a stretch of trail a few hundred feet long that was a bit scary. The trail was very narrow with cliffs directly above, and a very steep slope leading to more cliffs below. Lupe and SPHP made it through easily enough, but it sure wouldn’t be a place to take little kids.

Lanis was waiting with the Element at the best Spirit Lake viewpoint along the road at the other end of the trail. Lanis said there had been signs saying the trail was for experts or advanced hikers only. SPHP had not noticed them.

Going back down the paved road heading back out of St. Helens National Volcanic Monument was interesting, too. There were some pretty big drops off the side of the road, and no guardrails.

More concerning was that the road itself was cracking, and in many places had already slumped creating troughs in the road several feet deep. The pavement was still smooth, these weren’t abrupt cracks, but after seeing a whole mountain that had collapsed, it was easy to envision a 50 or 100 foot section of the road failing, and plunging down the cliff!

Looking back at Mt. St. Helens as Lupe leaves the area.

Of course, nothing actually happened; the road did not fail. (Some day it will!) Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left Mt. St. Helens behind.

Lupe was heading back to the West Coast! She traveled through the little towns of Cougar, Yale and Ariel on the way back to I-5. She turned N on I-5, and then W on Hwy 4, which followed the N bank of the Columbia River. Along Hwy 401, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP stopped at Dismal Nitch, a cove along the Columbia River.

It was beautiful at Dismal Nitch! The Columbia River is almost to the Pacific Ocean by the time it reaches Dismal Nitch. The river was so wide, it was hard to tell if it was still even a river, or a bay of the ocean. Seagulls were swirling around over the river. The long bridge over to Astoria, on the Oregon side of the Columbia, could be seen just a few miles ahead.

Lupe & Lanis at Dismal Nitch on the N bank of the huge Columbia River, at this point almost as much ocean as river.

Lupe had just missed seeing Lewis & Clark! Well, not quite “just” missed. Lewis & Clark first reached Dismal Nitch on November 10, 1805, so Lupe was 206 years, 9 months and 14 days late. It was a good thing, really. Lewis & Clark had taken shelter here from a severe winter storm. The storm forced them off the river for 6 days, causing them to miss their supply boat. It was Captain William Clark who had named the place, calling it in his journals “that dismal little nitch”.

It was getting late enough in the day to start thinking about finding a place to camp. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left Dismal Nitch, and continued W on Hwys 401 & 101 all the way to the Pacific Ocean at Cape Disappointment.

Cape Disappointment is located at the very SW tip of Washington state on the N bank of the Columbia River. It was named by a British fur trader, John Meares, who had been sailing S in search of trade and the Columbia. On April 12, 1788, he sighted Cape Disappointment, but had to turn his ship around due to a storm, thereby failing to discover the mouth of the Columbia. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP were also disappointed – the campground at the Lewis & Clark State Park was full.

Lupe saw the Pacific Ocean here, just N of Cape Disappointment in Lewis & Clark State Park, WA. Lupe was disappointed, too. The campground was full.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP drove all around the general area, stopping at all the campgrounds. Every one was full. People were flocking to the area for some kind of big kite flying contest. SPHP’s road atlas did show a “World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame” on the coast a little way N of Cape Disappointment State Park. Well, no problem. Lupe would just take the Astoria bridge over the Columbia River to Oregon, and find a place to stay over there.

When Lupe crossed the bridge, Oregon became the 6th Lupe state to join her Dingo Nation! Unfortunately, the story was both different and the same in Oregon. Just like in Washington, all the campgrounds were full. So were all the motel rooms, except for a few luxury suites priced well beyond budget. The reason was different, though. People were flocking here for a big Mt. Hood to Seaside relay running event that was in progress.

Lupe, Lanis, and SPHP gave up finding a place to stay in Astoria. Lanis drove S on Hwy 101 towards Seaside. Suddenly, Lanis spotted a black lab on the very busy 4 lane highway. The black lab was clearly lost. He was running back and forth right on the highway looking at each car as it whizzed by, hoping to find his owner. The poor black lab was doomed to cause an accident, and die within minutes doing this!

Lanis stopped the Element. Lanis and SPHP intended to rescue the black lab, but time was of the essence. Fortunately, someone else in a pickup truck also saw the dog’s plight, and stopped closer to where the dog had run to. In just seconds, he had the dog safely in his truck. The black lab was saved!

At Seaside, unsurprisingly, it soon became clear there were no campground vacancies here, either. However, there was a little park right along the highway, and a large pullout parking lot for it. The park had a big open field, with scattered stands of trees. Beyond the field was a view of a bay of the ocean. No tents allowed. It wasn’t dark yet, but it soon would be. Looked like car camping in the Element again.

As twilight was fading, SPHP and Lupe went for a walk through the park down to a little river flowing into the bay. Very high, thick, coarse grass grew next to the river. Lupe sniffed around in the grass forest, while SPHP gazed out over the river down to the ocean bay. SPHP didn’t notice anything was wrong until getting into the Element for the night.

Within a few seconds, the Element just reeked. The source of the stench was quickly identified as Lupe. She must have found some dead fish along the shore of the river, and rolled in them. Dogs, even Dingoes, sometimes love to roll in the nastiest, most awful things. An instinctive way of hiding their scent from prey? Well, it was true no sensible prey animal would likely suspect it was being added to the menu by an extraordinarily obnoxious dead fish.

Lupe was very happy curled up in the Element wearing her Eau-du-Dead Fish perfume, and wondered what all the fuss was about? Lanis and SPHP were far less thrilled. The smell was horrid and overwhelming. Lanis refused to stay. He took a sleeping bag outside, and tried to sleep on the ground next to the Element. The air was much better, but the traffic roaring by on the highway did not bring sweet dreams.

After Lanis had suffered outside, and SPHP had suffered inside, for about an hour, neither could take it anymore. Take your pick – traffic noise, or the stench of a Dead Fish Dingo – it was impossible to sleep. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went for a long walk in the darkness, just wandering around Seaside.

The walk helped. By the time Lupe, Lanis and SPHP returned to the Element, it had aired out somewhat. Somehow, Lupe had, too. She was still no rose garden, but the worst was clearly over. For Lanis and SPHP, sleeping in the Element still wasn’t going to be a treat. With the back loaded with gear, the front seats didn’t recline. Sleeping in the Element always meant sleeping sitting up.

High up on her pile of blankets and pillows, Lupe curled up and drifted peacefully off to sleep, soothed by the aromatherapy of the hint of Eau-du-Dead Fish she was still wearing.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 102 – St. Elmo Peak & the Search for Peak 6733 (10-29-14)

The sign said “Enjoy Your Day, But Please Close the Gate, Cattle Summer Pasture in these Fields”. Well, OK. October 29th wasn’t really the time of year for summer pasture, and although mountain goats might like it, the steep forested slopes up ahead didn’t look like good pasture for cattle any time of year. Nevertheless, Lupe and SPHP went through and closed the gate.

Lupe was just starting out on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 102. She was only a couple of minutes from the G6, which SPHP had parked along a dirt road SSE of Hwy 385, about a half mile S of its junction with Hwy 87/89 (10:37 AM, 54°F). Her first peakbagging objective for the day was St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.), less than a mile to the S. Lupe would have to gain over 1,200 feet of elevation to get up on top.

Beyond the fence, Lupe and SPHP started climbing the rough remnant of a road up a steep gully. The road became an overgrown trail, and then disappeared. Lupe hadn’t gone too far when the terrain started leveling out. She reached a small saddle NW of St. Elmo Peak. Lupe and SPHP turned SE, and headed straight up the mountain.

Lupe came across a seldom used dirt road. Brief explorations revealed that it was going to lose elevation no matter which direction Lupe might choose. So, Lupe and SPHP abandoned the road to resume climbing. Somewhat higher up, Lupe came to another road. It went down to the S, but looked like it would gain elevation going N. Lupe and SPHP followed it N.

Within 5 minutes, Lupe came to a wide spot where there were clear views off to the N and NE. The road continued around to the N side of St. Elmo Peak, reaching its highest point at a closed gate. Beyond the gate, the road was blocked by deadfall timber as it started downhill. Once again, Lupe and SPHP resumed climbing straight up the mountain.

The climbing was now much tougher than before. The forest was dead. Countless pines lay shattered and scattered in every direction on the steep slope. Thistles and low thorny bushes had grown in thick profusion amidst it all. It took SPHP a long time to work up through the tangled mess. Even Lupe wasn’t enjoying this much. St. Elmo Peak itself was ugly, but there were great views to the N.

Finally, Lupe found a faint trail going up the mountain. Even better, with only a few exceptions, someone had cleared the deadfall off the trail. Lupe and SPHP started making much better progress. There was still a good climb ahead, but it didn’t take much time. The trail ended at a rock outcropping near the summit. Lupe and SPHP scrambled up.

Lupe was now on a surprisingly large, and fairly level, block of granite. To the E were cliffs and very steep slopes. There were wonderful views from the NW all the way around to the NE and SE. The view of Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) to the E was fabulous. This big granite ledge at the N end of St. Elmo Peak was easily the best viewpoint on the mountain.

Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) (L) and Little Devil's Tower (6,960 ft.) (R). — **Harney Peak (7,242 ft.)** (L) and **Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.)** (R).

Whew, time for a break to enjoy the views and let lungs catch up! Lupe and SPHP sat together on the big granite ledge. Lupe had Taste of the Wild and water. SPHP had water and carrots. Lupe and SPHP watched smoke billowing up in the distance to the NNE from hills E of Hill City.

Smoke was billowing up from hills E of Hill City. Photo looks N.

Although the granite ledge was the best viewpoint, Lupe hadn’t quite reached the summit of St. Elmo Peak yet. The true summit was to the S, hidden by a mixed forest of pines and young aspen. After a few minutes spent recovering from the climb, Lupe and SPHP went S to find it.

The true summit was very close by. Although the forest hid a quite a few boulders, it didn’t take Lupe long to find the highest one. She leaped on top to claim her St. Elmo Peak peakbagging success!

Lupe on the true summit of St. Elmo Peak! Photo looks ENE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the big granite ledge. Lupe agreed to pose for a few more photos. The smoke E of Hill City looked like it was spreading.

Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.) is seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW. — **Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.)** is seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.

The smoke E of Hill City looked like it was still spreading.

Lupe had made it to the top of St. Elmo Peak, but the longest and hardest part of Expedition No. 102 was still ahead of her. She was just getting started! Her next peakbagging goal was Peak 6733, which was still 3 miles to the S. It was time for Lupe to get going. Lupe and SPHP left the granite ledge, and headed back down the faint trail.

It turned out that the faint trail led all the way down to the wide spot on the upper road back where Lupe and SPHP had first started seeing views to the N. SPHP hadn’t noticed the faint trail here before. Lupe and SPHP got on the road and headed S. It lost elevation steadily at a modest pace. The road turned SW staying on the NW side of a long ridge coming down from St. Elmo Peak.

Eventually, the road curved W. When it turned NW, it was time to look for a new route. Walking over to the edge of a small rise, SPHP saw another road below to the SW. It looked like it was heading SE for Bear Gulch, exactly where Lupe needed to go. Lupe and SPHP left the upper road and headed down the slope.

The lower road was better than the one Lupe had left up above. Lupe was very happy to find a creek running near it. She laid down in the water to cool off and get a drink. Lupe and SPHP went SE, and soon came to a fork in the road. One fork continued to the ESE following the creek upstream into a narrow, densely forested part of the canyon. That road was marked USFS Road No. 302.1F.

The other road was not marked. It crossed the stream, and headed S gaining elevation along the W side of a big field. Lupe took the unmarked road. She gained a fair amount of elevation, and came to a side road marked as USFS Road No. 302.1H. It went E, and looked like it was going to go around the N end of a ridge to the SE. Lupe’s objective, Peak 6733, was 2 miles farther S along this same ridge.

SPHP thought about getting up on the N end of the ridge, but didn’t. Instead, Lupe and SPHP followed No. 302.1H all the way around the N end over to the E side. There, it turned out that No. 302.1H was absolutely choked with deadfall. SPHP was optimistic that it would end soon. Wrong! The deadfall went on and on. Lupe could get through it OK, but it was taking SPHP literally hours per mile.

Looking NE back at St. Elmo Peak from USFS Road No. 302.1H at the N end of the ridge that Peak 6733 is part of 2 miles farther S.

The struggle through the deadfall was exhausting. Finally, No. 302.1H climbed fairly high up on the E side of the ridge. The deadfall lessened and Lupe reached a small clearing. Lupe and SPHP left the road to climb directly up to the top of the ridgeline. It had taken so long to get here, SPHP wasn’t certain if Peak 6733 was still to the S or back to the N. The top of the ridge was forested, so it was hard to tell.

It turned out the deadfall had slowed progress down even more than SPHP thought. After a little scouting around, it was clear that the highest ground along the ridgeline was still farther S. Peak 6733 had to be in that direction. Lupe and SPHP trekked S following the ridgeline. Lupe came to a series of successively higher points along the way. Each time she got to the top of one, another even higher one appeared ahead.

There was plenty of deadfall timber up on the ridgeline. It wasn’t as bad as back down on No. 302.1H, but it was certainly enough to make the going much slower than it should have been. Several times, SPHP thought Lupe had reached the top of Peak 6733, only to quickly realize she hadn’t. The sun was starting to sink toward the horizon. Lupe was running out of time to reach Peak 6733.

Thunderhead Mountain (6,567 ft.), where the Crazy Horse memorial carving is located, came into view to the SW. Lupe had to be getting close to Peak 6733. Up ahead, another high point came into view. This one was noticeably higher and steeper than the other high points Lupe had reached. SPHP’s hopes rose again that this might be Peak 6733.

By the time Lupe and SPHP arrived at the top, it was only half an hour before sunset. SPHP was already concerned with how Lupe was going to get back to the G6. It was far too late in the day to even consider returning through the massive tangle of deadfall. After checking out this high point, Lupe would have to try to find a way W to Hwy 385 before it got dark.

The top of this final high point had several high rock outcroppings of about equal elevation strung out along the E side of the ridge. There was another rocky high point off to the W, but the forest made it difficult to tell which of all these points was the true summit. Lupe would have to visit all of them.

A quick trek over to the W revealed that the rocks on the E side of the ridge were clearly higher. Crazy Horse looked pretty close by to the SW. Lupe returned to the high rock outcroppings on the E side of the ridge, exploring them all one by one. There was a lovely carpet of kinnikinnick growing in the saddle area between the E and W sides of the ridge.

Looking NNE back at St. Elmo Peak (L) from the high rocks on the E side of the ridge at the last high point Lupe climbed on her search for Peak 6733.

Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) from the last high point. Photo looks E. — **Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.)** from the last high point. Photo looks E.

Lupe on the kinnikinnick carpet in the saddle area. Photo looks NE.

Near the S end of the E side of the ridge, Lupe found the highest rocks of all at this high point. Lupe and SPHP managed to get up on the summit, which was a somewhat precarious rock only a foot or two wide. Lupe posed for a summit photo. It had to be a close up. There wasn’t any room for separation.

Lupe on the summit of the final high point of the day. SPHP had to lean back to get all of Lupe in the picture. Success, but it still wasn't clear if this was Peak 6733 or not! — Lupe on the summit of the final high point of the day. SPHP had to lean back to get all of Lupe in the picture. Success, but it still wasn’t clear if this was Peak 6733 or not!

Crazy Horse on Thunderhead Mountain taken from the summit.

From the S end of the high point, Lupe could see a big saddle to the SSE. Beyond it was an even higher mountain than the one she was on. She could see that it was part of the ridge that swept around to the E, and then back N over to Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) at its highest point. If Lupe wasn’t already on the summit of Peak 6733, then that next mountain to the SSE had to be it.

The easiest way down off this high point was to go back to the N. From there, Lupe and SPHP went E down off the ridge. Lupe turned SSE, cutting through a field where the terrain wasn’t too steep. Arriving at the saddle between the two high points, Lupe discovered a road with a gate. The road wasn’t marked in either direction.

For a couple of minutes, SPHP considered going on to climb the higher peak to the SSE. There was a good chance it was the real Peak 6733. There really wasn’t time, though. Lupe might make it up there while it was still light out, but it would be completely dark by the time Lupe could even get back to the saddle. SPHP didn’t even know what return route Lupe should take from here, only that she couldn’t go back the way she’d come.

Nope, Lupe had to skip that peak to the SSE. Just forget about it! The best bet was to get a move on, and try to find a way W to Hwy 385. If Lupe could get to Hwy 385, she should be able to find the Mickelson Trail. Even in darkness, she could safely and easily follow the Mickelson Trail back to a point close to the G6.

So, Lupe and SPHP followed the road going SSW over the W side of the ridge. As Lupe searched for a way to Hwy 385, she saw Crazy Horse in the early twilight.

Lupe eventually found Hwy 385, but not until well after dark. Lupe and SPHP followed the Mickelson Trail N. The wind blew. Clouds swept by. It rained lightly. The sky cleared. Half a moon and myriad stars shone above. Far below the bridges, Tenderfoot Creek rippled along in the otherwise silent night. For many miles, the American Dingo trotted ahead on the long trail home. (9:00 PM, 44°F)

It wasn’t until the next day, when SPHP had a chance to look carefully at the photos taken on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 102 and compare them to the maps, that SPHP knew for certain whether Lupe had climbed Peak 6733, or not. She had not. The final high point that Lupe reached was High Point 6634, about 0.625 mile to the NNW.

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