The Devil’s Punchbowl, Beverly Beach & Moolack Beach, Oregon Coast (8-25-12 & 8-26-12)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

It was early when SPHP woke up.  Sleeping sitting up in Lanis’ Honda Element hadn’t been much fun.  Lupe was ready to get out, too.  Lupe and SPHP stretched their legs wandering around a little park near a bay of the ocean in Seaside, Oregon.  Well, just last night the little park had been near a bay of the ocean, but the ocean had disappeared!

Lupe and SPHP went down to a river that had been flowing into the ocean the evening before.  This time, SPHP made certain Lupe did NOT repeat her Dead Fish Dingo performance.  The river, which had been pretty wide the previous evening, was now only a tiny stream flowing over mud flats.  The entire bay the river had flowed into was now a mud flat, too.  The mud extended to the horizon.

The tide had gone out.  It had gone out so far, Lupe and SPHP couldn’t even see the ocean anymore!  It had followed the moon, and fled the scene.  Interesting.  Not the sort of thing one expects back in South Dakota, but no doubt an ordinary event for those used to living near the ocean.  It didn’t take Lupe and SPHP long to get bored staring at mud.  Lupe and SPHP left what was left of the river, and wandered through the rest of the little park.

The park was partially wooded with stands of trees separated by wide mowed pathways.  The previous evening, SPHP had seen a plaque on a rock back in the woods, but it had been too dark to read it.  Lupe and SPHP went to see what was written there.  The plaque said Lupe was at a 20 acre site dedicated to Rueben Snake, the 1st President of the American Indian Movement back in the early 1970’s.

Lupe and SPHP explored the most densely forested part of the park, and were surprised to find a grave.  A headstone indicated a Kathleen somebody, who had passed away in 2003, was buried there.   Finding a grave in a park also seemed rather odd, but it was the end of the oddities.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the Element.  Lanis was awake.

The plan for the day was to drive S along the Oregon coast as far as the Devil’s Punchbowl.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed S on Hwy 101.  It was a beautiful sunny morning and a lovely drive.  Sometimes the Pacific Ocean was in view.  Lupe’s home in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a very long way from any ocean, so seeing the Pacific was a rare treat.

The Pacific Ocean along the Oregon coast.
The Pacific Ocean along the Oregon coast.

Just a few miles before reaching the Devil’s Punchbowl, the sunny morning disappeared.  A dense fog bank rolled in, and the mood of the day changed completely.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went to see the Devil’s Punchbowl in the fog.

Fog rolled in just a few miles N of the Devil's Punchbowl, and changed the mood of the day completely.
Fog rolled in just a few miles N of the Devil’s Punchbowl, and changed the mood of the day completely.
The Devil's punchbowl seems to be a collapsed cave hollowed out by the sea. The sea washes in and out of the Punchbowl, with every wave. The Punchbowl is big enough to hold an awful lot of punch, especially since it would all leak out into the Pacific.
The Devil’s punchbowl seems to be a collapsed cave hollowed out by the sea. The sea washes in and out of the Punchbowl, with every wave. The Punchbowl is big enough to hold an awful lot of punch, especially since it would all leak out into the Pacific.

Despite the fog, SPHP wanted to stay in the area.  One thing was for certain, neither Lanis nor SPHP wanted to spend another night sitting upright in the Element.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the Devil’s Punchbowl to line up a place to set up Lupe’s tiny house.  The first place S of the Devil’s Punchbowl was Beverly Beach State Park.  There was a big forested campground there.  It looked pretty crowded with people, so it was probably a good idea to secure a campsite there right away.

There weren’t any vacancies.  Every site in the entire campground was occupied or reserved for the night.  Fortunately, a Mr. Toma came along while SPHP was still talking to the state park personnel.  He and his wife wanted to cancel their reservation and go elsewhere.  The park personnel refused to refund his prepaid reservation, but were perfectly fine with Mr. Toma making a separate deal with SPHP.

So, it all worked out great!  Mr. Toma and SPHP worked out a deal.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP couldn’t actually take possession of Mr. Toma’s reserved site until the current occupant vacated the site at 1:30 PM, but that was OK.  With a place to stay secured for the evening, it was time to go back to the Devil’s Punchbowl.  Lupe was going to check out the beach just to the S!

A long set of stairs led down to the beach from the parking lot near the Devil’s Punchbowl.  It was still foggy out.  Lupe still wasn’t too used to the ocean.  She explored the mysterious foggy beach cautiously, at first.

Lupe explores the mysterious foggy beach just S of the Devil's Punchbowl on the Oregon coast.
Lupe explores the mysterious foggy beach just S of the Devil’s Punchbowl on the Oregon coast.

Lupe at the Pacific Ocean just S of the Devil's Punchbowl, Oregon 8-25-12Before long, Lupe was got brave enough to go wading in the ocean.  She didn’t go very far, and retreated from each incoming wave, but she was getting her paws wet.  SPHP waded with her.  Even though it was late August, the water was pretty cold.  It seemed even colder than up at Beach 4 in Washington.  No wonder the people out trying to surfboard on pathetically small waves were all wearing wet suits!

Lupe grew brave enough to wade in the Pacific Ocean, but was careful to stay in shallow water.
Lupe grew brave enough to wade in the Pacific Ocean, but was careful to stay in shallow water.

Lupe really started having fun when someone brought a Dalmatian dog down to the beach.  The Dalmatian wanted to play, and Lupe was soon having a blast with her new friend!

Lupe had a blast playing on the beach with her new Dalmatian friend.
Lupe had a blast playing on the beach with her new Dalmatian friend.

At 1:30 PM; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP returned to Beverly Beach State Park to take possession of site F15, which was the site Mr. Toma had reserved.  Soon Lanis and SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house pitched.

By now the fog had dissipated, and it was sunny out.  Like SPHP, Lanis hadn’t slept well sitting up in the Element last night, either.  He wanted to take a nap in Lupe’s tiny house.  Lupe stayed with Lanis, while SPHP enjoyed the luxury of a hot shower at Beverly Beach State Park’s nice facility.

After SPHP emerged all crisp and clean from the shower, Lupe and SPHP took a walk around the campground while Lanis snoozed.  Lupe soon discovered it was possible to go directly from the campground under a Hwy 101 bridge on down to the ocean.  Lupe and SPHP had a great stroll along the Pacific, heading N back towards the Devil’s Punchbowl.  Lupe and SPHP had fun wading in and out of the water, watching the waves and seagulls, and hearing the roar of the ocean.

By the time Lupe was 3/4 of the way to the Devil’s Punchbowl, it was time to go back and check on Lanis.  Lanis hadn’t slept well, even in Lupe’s tiny house.  The campground was just too crowded and noisy in the middle of the afternoon.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP got in the Element and cruised S on Hwy 101.  At the first little town, Lanis and SPHP stopped to pick up some Chinese take-out.

After eating at a viewpoint over the Pacific, Lanis drove back to the Devil’s Punchbowl again.  SPHP was fine, but Lanis started feeling queasy.   He stayed in the Element while Lupe and SPHP went back down to the beach.  SPHP hoped to get some photos of a brilliant Pacific sunset, but it would be a while before then.  Lupe and SPHP played on the beach, wading in the water again, while heading S now toward Beverly Beach.

The beach where Lupe played between Devil's Punchbowl and Beverly Beach State Park. Photo looks S.
The beach where Lupe played between Devil’s Punchbowl and Beverly Beach State Park. Photo looks S.

Lupe came to some guys who were digging a big pit in the sand.  They were stacking up driftwood for a bonfire.  Eventually they tried lighting the bonfire, but it was slow to take.  Sometimes there were other dogs to go sniff with.  Lupe ran around having a great time.

The bonfire smokes before really getting going.
The bonfire smokes before really getting going.

Lupe discovered a new ocean beach sport!  She started racing along the beach at top speed beneath seagulls flying overhead.  She barked enthusiastically at them with her head tilted up to see where they were flying.  However, Lupe couldn’t really see where SHE was going doing this.

Sometimes the seagulls flew out over the ocean.  Often this caused an unsuspecting Lupe to dash at top speed smack into an ocean wave, from which a completely drenched and surprised Carolina Dog emerged a moment later.  Her spirits weren’t dampened, though.  Lupe was really beginning to like the ocean!

Having fun on the beach.
Having fun on the beach.

The brilliant red, orange and gold sunset SPHP was hoping for never developed.  Instead, it became clear the sun was going to sink into a cloud bank.  As the sun went down, everything was all silvery, black and white.  It was still a beautiful way to end the day.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on the beach until the sun was down.

Sunset near the Devil's Punchbowl on the Oregon Coast.
Sunset near the Devil’s Punchbowl on the Oregon Coast.

Sunset S of Devil's Punchbowl, Oregon 8-25-12Sunset at Devil's Punchbowl, Oregon 8-25-12The next morning, Lupe and SPHP were up early.  Lanis was finally sleeping soundly, so Lupe and SPHP slipped off back down to the beach to enjoy the ocean again.  This time Lupe and SPHP made it all the way to the end of the beach next to the Devil’s Punchbowl.

A couple with two Labrador retrievers were throwing tennis balls into the ocean for their dogs to retrieve.  Lupe stole a tennis ball to get into the game.  The Labs gave chase, but Lupe was much faster.  She zoomed around zig-zagging this way and that.  The Labs couldn’t catch her.

Eventually Lupe dropped the ball, and chased the Labs while they ran with it.  That game was too easy, though.  Lupe had no problem catching them.  The Labs wore out, and gave up on catching or escaping from Lupe.  They returned to retrieving tennis balls from the ocean, and the game was over.

SPHP and Lupe made the long trek back to Beverly Beach State Park to check on Lanis.  He was up and feeling much better.  There wasn’t really a plan yet for the rest of the day, so Lanis and Lupe packed up Lupe’s tiny house just to provide freedom of action.

After checking out of Beverly Beach State Park.  Lanis drove up to the Devil’s Punchbowl once again.  Right next to the Devil’s Punchbowl is Mo’s West restaurant, which was going to open up in just a few minutes at 11:00 AM.  Lanis wound up getting Mo’s Clam Chowder Bread Bowl, and SPHP got Mo’s World Famous Clam Chowder.  Both Lanis and SPHP really thought it was delicious!

Lupe had another opinion.  As it turns out, Carolina Dogs don’t like seafood.  At least they don’t like anything with clams in it.  Lupe wouldn’t touch the stuff.  Oh, well!  Lanis and SPHP were happy with that.  It just left more for them.

While Lanis and SPHP were enjoying the food from Mo’s, the weather outside the Element was deteriorating.  It had been kind of a dark and cloudy morning before, but now the wind started blowing and it started to mist.  Lanis played with his phone, SPHP watched the tide going out, and Lupe snoozed while waiting for the weather to improve again.

It didn’t.  It was a good thing Lanis and SPHP had packed up Lupe’s tiny house.  It wasn’t tenting weather any more.  SPHP began to realize the weather wasn’t going to improve.  It was time to leave the Pacific Ocean.  SPHP realized it might be a very long time before Lupe ever got to see the ocean again.  Despite the weather, before leaving, Lupe was going to get one more chance to enjoy the magnificent Pacific Ocean.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the Devil’s Punchbowl for the last time.  Lanis drove a few miles S on Hwy 101 to Moolack Beach.  There was hardly anyone else on Moolack Beach.  The wind was blustery, and the waves were getting bigger.  The mist became rain.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went wading in the ocean and wandering along the shore.  The water felt colder than ever.

Lupe enjoyed her seagull chasing, and crashing into the big waves.  As it started to rain harder and the waves grew bigger, the beach started to feel like a remote and lonely place.  The power of the ocean grew.  Lupe ran far down the beach, until she was just a tiny brown speck next to the crashing waves.  SPHP began to get concerned for her.  The waves looked huge compared to the tiny Dingo.  SPHP yelled for Lupe to come back, even though she was so far away, even with big Dingo ears she couldn’t have heard SPHP over the roar of the ocean.

A minute or two later, the tiny brown and white speck started streaking toward SPHP.  She never stays away long, no matter how much fun she’s having.  SPHP realized Lupe was having her last run as a young doggie along the mighty ocean.  It was fun to watch her.  She arrived panting hard, soaking wet from ears to tail, with a gigantic grin on her face.  The ocean was soooo much fun!

SPHP was glad she had enjoyed it, but with the weather deteriorating, the ocean might get pretty dangerous, too.  It was raining harder all the time.  Time to leave the ocean.

So, reluctantly, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP said goodbye to the glorious Pacific Ocean.  As a young American Dingo, Lupe really had made it all the way to the West Coast on her 2012 Dingo Vacation!  She’d had marvelous adventures on the Washington and Oregon coasts she would always remember.  Now it was time to start heading home.

Lupe explores the mysterious foggy beach just S of the Devil's Punchbowl on the Oregon coast.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 101 – Zimmer Ridge & Peak 6600 (10-23-14)

Ever since SPHP ran across the site Peakbagger.com early in May, 2014, Lupe had been working on climbing all of the peaks she was able to on Peakbagger’s list of Black Hills 6500-foot Peaks.  By now, she had been on top of almost all of them.  Of course, the list contains a number of peaks Lupe will never be able to climb, because they are legally off limits or require climbing gear.

American Dingoes are purists.  If a mountain requires climbing gear, they don’t even try it.  They only bother to climb mountains they can summit completely unaided under their own power.  They never rely on ropes, or crampons, or snowshoes, or ice axes, etc.  At least that’s what American Dingoes claim.  In practice, Lupe has fudged at a few peaks by allowing SPHP to lift her up onto the highest rocks.

On this beautiful October day, Lupe was intent on reaching a couple of the few remaining climbable peaks on the Black Hills 6500-foot Peaks list that she hadn’t been to yet, Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.) and Peak 6600.  Both peaks are in the same general area 5-7 miles SW of Hill City.  Lupe would begin her quest on USFS Road No. 387.1, about 0.5 mile from Hwy 385 (10:37 AM, 54°F).

Lupe and SPHP started the day following No. 387.1 as it wound its way NW through a narrow canyon.  There was a creek near the road, which Lupe was glad to see, since it meant she could help herself to cold, clear water anytime she wished.  The maps show different names for this creek.  SPHP’s old USFS map show it as Whitehouse Creek.  The Peakbagger.com topo maps show it as White Horse Creek.

The canyon widened out into a bigger valley, as Lupe continued NW.  The road was wide and appeared to be built to county specs, which made it uninteresting.  After Lupe had gone a mile or more, the confusion about the creek’s name cleared up.  A little way ahead, Lupe saw a white horse standing with a few friends at the edge of the forest.  Lupe assured SPHP that this was the actual White Horse of White Horse Creek, which seemed logical enough.

Toward the S end of the valley between Zimmer Ridge and Peak 6600, the USFS map shows 160 acres of private property in the shape of an upside down and reversed “L”.  The horses Lupe was approaching were probably on that private land.  To stay on USFS land, Lupe left No. 387.1 angling NE up Zimmer Ridge.

Lupe’s route grew progressively steeper as Lupe climbed through a dense forest of young trees.  It had been sunny and warm down in the valley, but when Lupe and SPHP arrived up on the ridgeline, it was breezy and cool.  Lupe was close to the S end of the high ground on the summit ridge.  After a short break, Lupe went N looking for the summit.

Along the way, Lupe reached two false summits.  The second false summit provided the first real views in any direction.  Lupe could see to the SSE toward Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.).  She could also see the true summit of Zimmer Ridge.  It was still farther N along the ridge.

Lupe on the 2nd false summit she came to on Zimmer Ridge. The dead tree points just to the R of Sylvan Hill (Center). Photo looks SSE.
Lupe on the 2nd false summit she came to on Zimmer Ridge. The dead tree points just to the R of Sylvan Hill (Center). Photo looks SSE.

The ridgeline going over to the true summit was broad and fairly level.  It should have been an easy trek.  However, there was a lot of deadfall timber.  Several rocky spots and dense stands of thistles slowed SPHP down, too.  It took SPHP a while to get over to the true summit.  Lupe had plenty of time to sniff and explore.

Zimmer Ridge culminates in a couple clusters of boulders jutting up right next to each other at the true summit.  The highest rocks were all very nearly the same elevation.   Despite the purist intentions of the American Dingo, it was fudging time.  SPHP had to lift Lupe the last few feet to get her up on top.  She didn’t look all that comfortable perched high on Zimmer Ridge, but she did her best to act as if everything was just lovely.

Lupe acts as if its just grand up on the true summit of Zimmer Ridge, even though it looked like she had an uncomfortable perch. Photo looks W.
Lupe acts as if its just grand up on the true summit of Zimmer Ridge, even though it looked like she had an uncomfortable perch. Photo looks W.
High rocks of the other cluster of boulders at the summit of Zimmer Ridge. Photo looks E.
High rocks of the other cluster of boulders at the summit of Zimmer Ridge. Photo looks E.

SPHP was surprised to see that there was yet another high point on Zimmer Ridge about 0.33 mile to the NNE.  It looked almost the same elevation as the true summit.  SPHP had to consults the maps to make certain it wasn’t actually higher.  The maps showed that it was only 6,583 ft., or 17 feet lower.

Even though Lupe had already reached the summit, it seemed like a shame not to go on and finish her explorations of Zimmer Ridge all the way to the N high point.  The first part of the trek over there wasn’t bad, but as Lupe got closer, there were big rock formations to maneuver around.  The deadfall timber and thistles were bad, too.

The N high point was a better place to relax than the true summit.  Some flat ground provided a high perch with a great view to the N.  Lupe and SPHP took a break there.  After the break, Lupe finished her climb up a big rock pile to the top of the N high point.

Lupe on the high point at the N end of Zimmer Ridge. It is only 17 feet lower than the true summit. Photo looks SSW at the true summit.
Lupe on the high point at the N end of Zimmer Ridge. It is only 17 feet lower than the true summit. Photo looks SSW at the true summit.

With her explorations of Zimmer Ridge complete, it was time to start for Peak 6600, located 1.75 miles due W.  Lupe and SPHP left the N high point heading WNW down the mountain.  Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation, and arrived at USFS Road No. 387.1B a short distance NE of a saddle over to the next ridge.  Lupe and SPHP followed the road up to the saddle.

SPHP had intended to just cross the road, and follow the ridgeline NW until it swept around to the W to a point where Lupe could turn S to Peak 6600.  However, while Lupe might not be tired of the deadfall timber yet, SPHP was.  Even though Lupe would lose more elevation that would have to be regained, it seemed easier to just stay on No. 387.1B.

So, Lupe remained on No. 387.1B continuing SW from the saddle.  The road reached its low point where it turned NW to start gaining elevation again.  A small pond was shining in the sunlight near the bend.  Lupe was happy to see it.  She ran to the pond, plunked herself down in it and had a big drink.

The pond near the low point of USFS Road No. 387.1B. Lupe cooled off here and enjoyed a big drink, before continuing on her way to Peak 6600. Photo looks SW into the glare of the sun.
The pond near the low point of USFS Road No. 387.1B. Lupe cooled off here and enjoyed a big drink, before continuing on her way to Peak 6600. Photo looks SW into the glare of the sun.

Fully refreshed from her pond break, Lupe shook herself off and was ready to go again.  Lupe and SPHP followed No. 387.1B into the upper end of White Horse gulch.  The road went NW 0.75 mile, turned W and soon came to a turnaround loop.  Lupe was now at almost the same elevation as the ridge to the N.  From the turnaround loop, it was only a short trek off the road to get on the ridgeline for a look at the country on the other side.

SPHP went to take a look at the view, but Lupe never made it that far.  As Lupe approached, a gray and white rabbit suddenly dashed off and disappeared in the forest.  Lupe lost all interest in the view.  She preferred to sniff around excitedly trying to figure out where the bunny had gone.  As it turned out, the rabbit must have had prior experience working with a magician.  It had completely disappeared.

The road continued W beyond the turnaround loop, and climbed more steeply for a short distance up onto an even higher ridge.  Peak 6600 was now just 0.75 mile to the S.  Lupe and SPHP left the road to follow the ridgeline.  Lupe came to several places where there was a view back to the E toward Zimmer Ridge.

On the way to Peak 6600. Zimmer Ridge is seen in the distance. Photo looks ESE.

It was late afternoon by the time Lupe reached the top of Peak 6600.  The summit area features two high points enclosed by the 6600 foot contour on the topo map.  Lupe arrived at the E summit first.  Unfortunately, forest blocked the views.  Lupe got up on the highest rock at the E summit, and struck a rather dramatic Carolina Dog pose.

Lupe strikes a dramatic Carolina Dog pose on the E summit of Peak 6600. Photo looks SW.
Lupe strikes a dramatic Carolina Dog pose on the E summit of Peak 6600. Photo looks SW.

Lupe left the E summit to check out the W one.  It wasn’t very far away, but there was a huge amount of deadfall timber navigate through.  The effort was worth it.  A rocky ledge at the W summit provided good views off toward the high country in that direction.  Lupe and SPHP stopped here to take a break.  Lupe finished almost all of her Taste of the Wild.  SPHP ate the last apple.

Lupe on the rocky W summit of Peak 6600. Photo looks N.
Lupe on the rocky W summit of Peak 6600. Photo looks N.
Lupe checks out the view.
Lupe checks out the view.

The forest made it hard to tell for certain, but in SPHP’s opinion the E high point was the true summit of Peak 6600.  However, the views were better from the W one.  Lupe and SPHP lingered on the W summit of Peak 6600, watching the sun sink toward the horizon.

A hoped for colorful sunset didn’t pan out.  Lupe and SPHP left Peak 6600 heading S along the ridgeline.  SPHP wanted Lupe to stay up on the ridge as long as possible before turning E to head back down into White Horse Creek valley.  Lupe didn’t make it far, though.  There was too much deadfall timber up on the ridge.

At the low point of the first big saddle S of Peak 6600, Lupe and SPHP left the ridge and started down.  Lupe had to lose a lot of elevation before the deadfall diminished and the terrain started leveling out.  As twilight was fading, Lupe strayed onto private property somewhere along the way.

Although this was White Horse Creek valley, a very friendly black horse noticed Lupe and SPHP passing through the forest.  The most likely explanation in the horse’s view was that the Carolina Dog was bringing him a nice supply of fresh carrots to munch on.  It whinnied a greeting, and trotted jauntily toward Lupe looking forward to carrots and company.  Maybe Lupe was even bringing oats?

Lupe loves to bark furiously at cows and horses from the safety of the G6.  This was different.  Up close, the gigantic black horse approaching rapidly in the dark forest was quite unnerving for the American Dingo.  Lupe mistook the black horse’s cheerful whinnying as a threat.  The evil apparition was out to get her!  Lupe dashed off, without so much as a single bow-wow.

At 7:05 PM (38°F), Lupe and SPHP arrived back at the G6.  Lupe headed for home, content with her peakbagging successes.  Meanwhile, a disappointed black horse heaved a sigh and resigned itself to its dull diet of dry grass.  Some days it’s tough being a black horse in White Horse Creek valley.

On Peak 6600, Black Hills of South Dakota Expedition No. 101, 10-23-14

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