Washington – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Gray Wolf Ridge, Olympic Mountains, Washington (8-18-21)

Day 13 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

11:15 AM, USFS Road No. 2870 (2860?), Olympic Peninsula – Two signs by the turn onto the side road made no mention USFS Road No. 120, or the Upper Dungeness trailhead, but this had to be the turn SPHP was looking for, didn’t it? Going to give it a whirl.

Level, or close to it most of the way, the narrow side road traversed a steep, forested mountainside. Thankfully, no oncoming traffic! SPHP was glad when a roomy parking area appeared more than 1.5 miles in.

Think we’ve arrived, Looper!

Start of USFS Road No. 120 to the Upper Dungeness trailhead. Photo looks SSW.

12:11 PM, 65ºF, Upper Dungeness trailhead – Finally ready, SPHP strapped on the pack. Despite leaving the North Cascades while it was still dark this morning, it was already noon. Not good. Regardless, Lupe set off for the end of USFS Road No. 120, coming to a smaller, shadier parking area only 100 feet from the big one.

The road ended at the far end of this smaller lot. No signage here, either, but next to a big stump, a trail headed into the forest.

Look at these blue skies, SPHP! Have to admit, taking the ferry back to the Olympic Peninsula was a great idea! Where are we going, anyway?

Silly to be going anywhere this late in the day, Loop. It’s a big climb! We’ll shoot for Baldy (6,827 ft.), though, at a minimum. Think we can do that.

And what would be the maximum, SPHP?

The real prize is Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.), Loopster! Would love to get there, but it’s a long way. Guess we’ll just have to see how feasible it looks from Baldy.

Gray Wolf Ridge! It’ll be Brown & White Dingo Ridge by the time I’m through with it, SPHP!

Hah! I hope you’re right, Looper!

Start of the trail at the end of USFS Road No. 120. Photo looks SW.

The “big climb” started off with an easy stroll down to Mueller Creek, the only water Lupe would come to today. Wading through the stream, the Carolina Dog wisely helped herself to a cold drink before continuing up the opposite bank. After a 20 foot rise, the single track trail leveled out on an old roadbed.

At first the roadbed was shady, but Lupe soon came to a sunnier stretch. 200 yards past Mueller Creek, a few sticks across the road marked where she needed to leave it. A distinct trail veered off to the R here, climbed 20 or 30 feet, then leveled out, paralleling the now unseen lower route for 200 or 300 feet, before turning W (R) directly up the mountain.

On the initial shady stretch of the roadbed.

The side trail, close to where it left the road.

A long steep climb had begun. Not super steep, but steep enough. SPHP paused frequently for breathers. The trail was easy to follow as Lupe climbed steadily higher. Few curves or switchbacks to ease the rate of ascent. Leafy plants covered the floor of a fairly open forest.

After gaining 350 feet of elevation, the American Dingo reached another old roadbed. 25 feet to the R, a rotten log across this road marked where the trail continued higher.

By the rotten log on the upper roadbed. Trail continues to the L from here.

Believe I read about this spot online, Loop. We’re at about 3,550 feet here.

Is that good, SPHP?

Heh. A bit better than where we started out, but we’re just getting started!

From the rotten log, the trail ran up a short slope of packed dirt before vanishing into the forest. Nothing would change now until Lupe got at least another 2,000 feet higher. Still heading directly up a ridge that looked virtually the same as the rest of the mountainside, Loop charged up the trail as fast as SPHP’s heart, lungs, and legs would allow.

On the packed dirt slope above the rotten log.

No views, only trees. The character of the forest varied somewhat from one region to the next, but these changes were more subtle than abrupt. Up every step of the way! No flat or downhill stretches. In some places, young trees crowded the path, in others, the forest was more open.

Relentlessly steep! SPHP paused frequently for breathers. The good news was that the trail was always easy to follow.

Lupe eventually passed a wooden “No Stoves Beyond This Point” sign. Checking the topo map, SPHP decided that might mean she’d reached the wilderness boundary at roughly 4,800 feet. A while later, a white sign with black lettering was spotted somewhat off the trail. That one said simply “National Forest Boundary”.

The steepest part was early on, but the average rate of ascent diminished so slowly that change was virtually imperceptible for a long way. Not until the trail finally began trending NW, instead of W, did improvement become more noticeable.

Loop had already gained a lot of elevation by the time a small clearing appeared ahead. The trail curved L, bypassing it, but this seemed like a good spot to take a break. The opening was level, round, and covered with small flat rocks. A heavily forested high point a few hundred feet higher was in sight.

Chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP! How are we doing, anyway?

Hard to say, Looper, but we must have made decent progress by now.

Returning to the trail, Lupe encountered something she hadn’t before. Just past the small clearing, several big trees had fallen across the trail. Didn’t affect the Carolina Dog at all. She trotted below the mess, while SPHP had to crawl over it, or circle by off-trail. Happily, deadfall was confined to this one little section.

The trail was clear again as the American Dingo continued on. The rate of ascent was finally starting to slow enough to make a difference. The forest was beginning to thin out, too. Lupe started coming to clearings where Tyler Peak (6,364 ft.) was in sight off to the NE.

**Tyler Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks NE.

The trail steepened again before finally leveling out. Progress was rapid along this flat stretch, which went on for quite a long way. Eventually, a partially open hillside appeared ahead. Leaving the forest, Loopster climbed through a meadow of dry grass.

Approaching the steep meadow. Photo looks NNW.

Looking W (L), the meadow extended 500 feet higher, all the way up to Peak 6531. The American Dingo could have gone straight up to it, but SPHP felt the trail was plenty steep enough.

After crossing the meadow, the trail continued along the edge of the next forest, entering it shortly before reaching a ridgeline. Lupe promptly came to a junction.

R was the way to Tyler Peak. Lupe instead turned L, starting what was now only a 300 foot climb up to Peak 6531. Quickly emerging from the forest, there was a fairly flat part of the meadow off to the L.

Out on the flat part of the meadow. Photo looks SSE.

**Peak 6531** from the relatively flat region. Photo looks SW.

The trail to Peak 6531, however, stayed toward the R along the NW edge of the ridge. As she climbed, Looper could now see Baldy (6,827 ft.), her minimum objective, off to the W.

**Baldy** (Center) from the trail up Peak 6531. Photo looks W.

**Halfway up Peak 6531** from the flat part of the meadow. Photo looks WSW.

4:02 PM, Peak 6531 – Lupe stood on a little rock outcropping enjoying a terrific view of Tyler Peak (6,364 ft.). The Strait of Juan de Fuca, many islands, and even parts of Canada were visible beyond it, but the view was quite hazy that far out.

**Tyler Peak** (Center) from **Peak 6531**. Photo looks NE.

Peak 6531’s summit was small, but the SW slope wasn’t steep, so there was plenty of room to relax. Pausing to rest for a few minutes, Loop had unobstructed views in all directions. 0.7 mile due W, Baldy (6,827 ft.) was only 300 feet higher. Looked like an easy trek.

**Baldy** (L of Center) is going to be a snap! Photo looks W.

Lots more to see here, too! An enormous ridge to the SE ran for miles, many peaks strung out along it. The Needles, a collection of even higher, rugged peaks, was visible to the SW beyond the end of the giant Royal Creek canyon. A closer peak, along the near side of that same canyon, caught the eye.

The upper slopes were all gray.

Is that it, SPHP? Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.)?

Yeah! Gotta be, Looper! Let’s get to Baldy, and have a look! Maybe there’s still time to get to Gray Wolf before dark?

Abandoning Peak 6531, Lupe headed W.

Setting out for **Baldy** (R). **Gray Wolf Ridge** (L). Photo looks WSW.

The only potentially questionable part of the trek to Baldy was a forested stretch that might hide some rough ground.

Approaching the forested region. **Baldy** (Center). Photo looks W.

Happily, the forested region proved no worse than the rest of the route. Following use trails, Lupe wound through it without difficulty. Once past the trees, all that remained was a 400 foot open trudge higher.

Starting up **Baldy** (R), **Gray Wolf Ridge** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Baldy’s easy E slope**. Photo looks W.

Baldy had a bit of an E shoulder, a rocky high point that seemed worth a stop along the way. Lupe scrambled up there for a quick look around.

On **Baldy’s E shoulder**. **Tyler Peak** (L). **Peak 6531** (Center). Photo looks E.

**Peak 6531** (L). Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

The E shoulder was a magnificent viewpoint in its own right, but wasn’t the top. Baldy’s summit was only 0.1 mile farther W now. A couple of minutes on the E shoulder, and the Carolina Dog was on her way.

**Baldy’s summit** from the E shoulder. Photo looks W.

4:50 PM, 57ºF, Baldy (6,827 ft.) – A semi-circular rock fortress, no doubt intended as a wind break, stood 15 feet N of a rocky true summit only modestly higher than the rest of the terrain. 100 feet farther W, amid a slightly lower collection of rocks, one stood on end, seemingly marking the W end of the summit region.

With fabulous views in all directions, just getting to Baldy was a worthy accomplishment itself!

In the rock fortress. **Gray Wolf Ridge** (L). Photo looks SW.

At **Baldy’s true summit**. Photo looks SE.

**Baldy true summit**. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Somewhat surprisingly, no cairns, no registry, no survey benchmarks.

And that makes no difference to me, SPHP, but there better be a chocolate coconut bar! Baldy’s been a monster climb! How much elevation have we gained, anyway?

You’re in luck, when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, Looper! I’ll split one with you, and you can have some Taste of the Wild, too. Baldy is about 3,600 net feet of elevation gain from where we started. More like 3,800 feet total.

No wonder I’m tired, SPHP! Mind if we rest here for a while?

Feel the same way, Loop. I’m ready for a break, too.

After dispatching the chocolate coconut bar, plus half of the Taste of the Wild supply, Lupe laid down on the dirt next to SPHP.

Resting on Baldy. **Tyler Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

Did you see that huge mountain way off to the SW, SPHP? The one with some big snowfields or glaciers on it?

Yup. Believe that’s Mount Olympus (7,969 ft.), Loop. Kind of amazing to think that we can see it from here!

**Mount Olympus** (R of Center) from Baldy. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Suppose we’ll ever get to see Mount Olympus from Gray Wolf Ridge, SPHP?

Tough question. Hard to say. Time was flying by. Gray Wolf Ridge was out there now, tantalizingly close, less than 1.5 miles away as the crow flies. The sight of it was absolutely inspiring, but energy and the will to do all that was required to get there seemed to be ebbing away. Baldy had done that. Maybe Baldy was good enough?

A mountain too far? **Gray Wolf Ridge** (R). Photo looks SW.

Now or never, sweet puppy, or we’ll run out of time. Want to go for it?

Yes, but not really, SPHP. Wish I had my Dingo wings.

Reluctantly, Lupe followed SPHP down Baldy’s SW slope. At first, it was easy, but a lip was ahead. How steeply would the mountain drop away beyond it? Would it even be possible to get down to the saddle leading to Peak 6520, a high point on the way to Gray Wolf Ridge, or would that require technical skills? Maybe SPHP would just chicken out?

Approaching the lip. **Gray Wolf Ridge** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Plenty steep, that was for sure. SPHP was a little doubtful. Not technical, though, just a long way down a fairly featureless slope.

Oh, think I can manage this, Loop. Just going to pick my way down slow and easy. Have fun sniffing around! You’re going to have some time on your paws while I do this.

Loose! A pile of scree gave way with every step. SPHP was consumed with guilt for destroying the mountain. Between channels of the loose stuff, ribbons of tundra held about half of the slope together. Which was worse? Trample the delicate tundra? Or erode away it’s weak nearby support by continuing to gouge it away?

Both choices seemed bad. What seemed even worse was contemplating having to come back up this same slope later on in the dark. Sticking with the loose scree rather than the tundra, SPHP tried to banish the thought, concentrating on the task at paw. Plenty of evidence around that others had made this same choice, too.

Meanwhile, Lupe wandered effortlessly back and forth along the slope as impulse and her nose led her. Almost as good as another rest break at the rate SPHP was going.

At last the grade began to diminish. The worst was over. SPHP was able to pick up the pace. Reaching the saddle leading to Peak 6520, Loopster crossed it, and started up.

Heading down **Baldy’s SW slope**. Made in the shade by the time SPHP got this far! Photo looks SW.

Looking back at **Baldy** from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Growing weariness aside, the trek to the top of Peak 6520 was easy. Part of the way, a use trail stayed on loose scree to the R (NW) of a large intact strip of crunchy dry tundra that covered a long section of the ridgeline.

6:11 PM, Peak 6520 – The summit here was sort of like Peak 6531, a little bigger and flatter, perhaps, but equally barren and capped by a similar minor rock outcropping. Lupe made it clear that she wanted to rest, but there wasn’t time for that.

Another big drop was ahead. Fortunately, not nearly as steep as coming down off Baldy had been. Unenthusiastically, the weary Carolina Dog went on.

**Baldy** (Center) from **Peak 6520**. Photo looks NE.

**Gray Wolf Ridge** (R) from **Peak 6520**. Photo looks SSW.

Approaching the last saddle. Photo looks SW.

Looking back. **Peak 6520** (L), **Baldy** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Maybe it was the time of day, the slanting rays of the evening sun? Maybe it was the easier terrain after getting past Baldy? Or maybe the American Dingo now sensed the urgency SPHP felt?

Whatever the reason, as Lupe crossed that last saddle S of Peak 6520 and started up Gray Wolf Ridge, something changed. Her former reluctance vanished. A second wind! Facing a 1,000 foot climb, energy, enthusiasm, and determination reappeared. The Carolina Dog willingly led the way.

An initial short climb led to a level plain of dry tundra. Gray Wolf Ridge now loomed ahead, a trail snaking higher before veering R to angle up a long, steep slope of gray soil.

Crossing the tundra plain. Photo looks SW.

The path was narrow. Loose scree here, too, but beneath the surface, the soil was firm. Lupe climbed and climbed. SPHP trudged behind her. At last, it appeared possible to regain the ridgeline.

Climbing **Gray Wolf Ridge**. Photo looks SW.

An odd cluster of rocks stuck out in all directions where Looper finally regained the ridge. Nearby a steep, but relatively short climb led up to a minor high point, a rocky knob from which the ridge ahead angled more toward the WSW. It all looked quite doable from here.

First rocky knob along the upper ridge. **Baldy** (L of Center). Photo looks NE.

Not much farther! Less than 0.25 mile to the summit!

A relatively easy trudge WSW got Lupe up to a large rounded hump of soil and sparse tundra. The wind was blowing harder here.

**Baldy** (L of Center) and **Tyler Peak** (R) from the windy hump. Photo looks NE.

Looking S, a worrisome sight. The hump became more of a ridge as it rose toward the prow of the mountain, a thick cap of off-white rock.

Whether Lupe could get up that steep-sided cap was debatable.

The prow from the hump. Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe headed for the prow, SPHP felt that it might be best to turn SW along the base of the cap seeking a feasible route up. However, upon reaching the prow, a use trail angled only slightly R before vanishing as it led directly into the rock.

Going for it! Climbing the prow. Photo looks SW.

Twice Lupe got stuck. Fortunately, SPHP was able to lift her high enough to get her past both otherwise insurmountable spots.

Second boost did the trick! Only a short, easy stroll higher remained.

7:45 PM, 55ºF, Gray Wolf Ridge (7,218 ft.) – An incredible, unforgettable half an hour was all Lupe would have before the sun would sink below the horizon. Terribly sad, yet thrilling!

Loopster! Congratulations! Can’t believe we made it! We’re really here! Gray Wolf Ridge! Fabulous job, sweet puppy!

No wolves in sight, SPHP! Brown and white American Dingo Ridge at the moment!

Ha, ha! Yes! I love it! Brown and white American Dingo Ridge it is!

Gray Wolf Ridge’s summit was much smaller than SPHP expected. Two high points, so close to the same elevation that it was hard to say which might technically be the true summit, were at opposite ends of an 80 – 100 foot long ridge that cliffed out to the E, but sloped only moderately toward the W.

A brass survey benchmark was attached to the top of a flat rock over by the N summit where Lupe stood now, as SPHP shook her paw.

**Gray Wolf Ridge N summit**. **Baldy** (L), **Tyler Peak** (R). Survey benchmark visible on the rock R of Lupe. Photo looks NE.

The survey benchmark. Elevation shown, but sadly no “Gray Wolf” stamp.

The S summit was a more dangerous perch. The highest rock jutted out into space. Lupe got very close to it, but SPHP wouldn’t let her go quite all the way to the top.

Other than a chilly 10 mph W breeze, conditions were perfect! The air was clear. Nearby peaks could be seen with great clarity. A more than half full moon was well above the E horizon. After photos at both high points, Lupe and SPHP sat facing W toward the sinking sun.

Look! No smoke, Loop! We’ve finally found the clear blue skies that we set out in search of when we left home.

A rare moment on this Dingo Vacation, that’s for sure, SPHP! So glad we kept going! What a fabulous mountain!

Celebration time! The third and final chocolate coconut bar vanished. Lupe polished off the rest of the Taste of the Wild supply.

Trying to take it all in as much as possible while light remained, Loop and SPHP traipsed back and forth across the little summit ridge multiple times. Baldy and Tyler Peak stood out back to the NE. Two big peaks dominated to the SE. Mount Constance (7,756 ft.)? Warrior Peak (7,320 ft.)? SPHP didn’t know.

Mount Walkinshaw (7,378 ft.) was closest of many jagged peaks to the S. The Needles region came next, then Mount Deception (7,788 ft.). Mount Mystery (7,639 ft.) was even farther S.

**S summit** (L), **Mount Mystery** (Center), **Mount Deception** (R), **The Needles** (far R). Photo looks S.

**Baldy** (Center) and **Tyler Peak** (R) from the **N summit**. Photo looks NE.

**Mount Constance** (far L?), **Warrior Peak** (L?), **S summit** (L of Center), **Mount Mystery** (far R). Photo looks SSE.

**Gray Wolf Ridge N summit**. Photo looks NNE.

Moment of glory on **Brown & White American Dingo Ridge**! *Get it right, SPHP!*

**Mount Deception** (far L), **The Needles** (L), **Mount Walkinshaw** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Precious minutes rapidly ticked away. Sadly, no pause button in real life. Some close ups, last glances at the tremendous views to the S, and Lupe stood for the final time near the S summit. Even the alpenglow was fading.

**Mount Mystery** (Center), **Mount Deception** (R), **The Needles** (far R). Photo looks S.

**Mount Mystery** (R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Deception** (L) and **The Needles region** (Center & R). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

**S summit**. Final moments in the alpenglow. Photo looks SE.

The big show wasn’t over yet, though! Attention now shifted to the WNW where earth’s glowing star still hovered above the horizon.

Sunset from Gray Wolf Ridge! We are so lucky, SPHP!

Far to the SW was another amazing sight, a glacier-clad peak, mightiest of the entire Olympic Peninsula!

**Mount Olympus** from **Gray Wolf Ridge**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The show went on, a once-in-a-lifetime must see event. A magnificent display it was! Transfixed, Lupe and SPHP stayed through the credits.

8:24 PM, Gray Wolf Ridge – The world was gray. Clouds had moved in, borne by the chilly W wind. Still light out, but not for long. Dusk would be coming soon. Lupe stood by the pack close to the N summit.

Sunset might be over and done with, but the American Dingo’s Gray Wolf Ridge adventure wasn’t. Gotta do it all over again, in reverse!

Gah! Better get with it!

A need for speed! Light was fading fast as SPHP grabbed the pack, sorry to be leaving Gray Wolf Ridge so soon, yet elated that Lupe had managed to arrive in time to have enjoyed the experience. A fond farewell to the mountain, then –

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Carefully, carefully, though! SPHP had trouble recognizing the lower spot where Lupe had been hoisted up the prow. Delay was not good, but SPHP finally figured it out, and helped the Carolina Dog down. An easy trek across the rounded hump, then ENE down along the upper ridge.

Descending the upper ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Fading light made the descent tricky. SPHP kept losing the use trail. Lupe led the way, repeatedly finding it again, often much lower.

Dark! The flashlight emerged before the Carolina Dog was completely down off Gray Wolf Ridge. At least the worst was behind her by then. Batteries were weak. SPHP didn’t bother with stopping to change them.

A beautiful evening! Moonlight brightened the edges of clouds in the night sky, shedding a gleam on the mountain, too. Desperately weary, Lupe began climbing toward Peak 6520 again. Repeatedly pawing the back of SPHP’s legs, she politely begged for mercy.

And so it was. Again and again. Resting while sitting in the dark on the bone dry tundra, watching the clouds sail by in the moonlit sky, as the W wind blew. Then on once more, a little farther, until the tap of the tired, gentle paw. Please stop! Rinse and repeat.

What had been easy during the day, now felt uncertain, dangerous. Hard to find the way, hard to judge distances, hard to stay oriented. Descents brought on fear of the abyss, that black void ahead. All these sudden drops. Careful! One step at a time!

8-19-21, 12:07 AM, Baldy – Mutually exhausted, Lupe nestled on SPHP’s lap. She’d perked up some during the trek up Baldy, but wanted to rest again now. For SPHP, coming up Baldy had been wretched, endless, but no more big climbs left. Going to be alright. Peak 6531 yet to come, but that wouldn’t be so bad.

Layered up, SPHP sat facing away from the wind. What an amazing night! Clouds threatened the moon, but elsewhere, silver stars shone brightly. There were other lights, too.

See that, Loop? All those glittering lights below? Civilization! That’s Port Angeles, and islands in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Way out there, Canada, and the E shore of Puget Sound, too!

Midnight on Baldy. Half delirious, it was like being in a dream.

For a long time, no one moved. Then somehow, the summoned strength to carry on.

SPHP was elated when Lupe reached the trail junction near the flat part of the meadow below Peak 6531. Maintained trail and downhill now all the rest of the way!

That joy was premature. The trail had been fine, obvious on the way up, but SPHP couldn’t follow it in the dark. So frustrating! It kept vanishing in the meadow. Was Lupe too high or too low? Impossible to say. Up and down! Around and around. No luck. No clue.

Two efforts both ended circling all the way back up to the trail junction.

8-19-21, 2:52 AM, flat part of the meadow – No more! Laying down on the dirt and thin grass, SPHP clicked off the flashlight. Gloves, hat, all layers on. Lupe huddled closer.

Try to sleep, sweet puppy!

Nearby, the cold wind sighed in the trees.

8-19-21, 4:32 AM – Shivering, SPHP woke. Black as pitch. Definitely colder now, the wind roaring. Where the Carolina Dog was still cuddled up, the only warmth in the world. Another hour and a half till dawn.

How, you feeling, Loop? I can’t take this any longer. We have to move.

I’m lots better, SPHP. Ready when you are!

Good! Changing the batteries in this flashlight. We’ll find that trail yet!

Worked like a charm!

8-19-21, 7:19 AM, 57ºF, Upper Dungeness trailhead – Sunny and bright! SPHP moved the RAV4 to the shady part of the trailhead, fed a famished American Dingo, and chowed down, too.

A beautiful morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP were going to see any of the rest of it. Both off to Dingo Dreamland, climbing together forever, to see a blazing sunset high atop Gray Wolf Ridge.

**Gray Wolf Ridge**, Olympic Mountains, Washington 8-18-21

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GPS track by Kevin Lester (10-9-21)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations to New Mexico, Wyoming & the West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Chains Lakes Loop Trail & Table Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington (8-17-21)

Day 12 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

10:27 AM, Austin Pass, Heather Meadows Recreation Area – A later start than it should have been, but that wasn’t Lupe’s fault. Coming to the North Cascades in Washington had finally paid off as far as escaping the wildfire smoke that hung over the rest of the American West, but even so, skies weren’t blue. Rain last night, then fog this morning.

Overcast, but at least the fog had finally lifted. Beyond a pond next to the parking lot, Table Mountain (5,742 ft.) was in sight. Whether that would last, or fog would return, was anybody’s guess.

**Table Mountain** (Center) from the **Austin Pass** parking lot. Photo looks SW.

Would be a lot better, if we had some sunshine, Loop. Still want to try it?

We’re here now, SPHP! Better take what we can get. Let’s give it a shot!

SPHP glanced at the posted trail map.

Alright, then! But let’s give the sky a chance to clear up before we get to the Table Mountain trail by taking the Chain Lakes trail counter-clockwise around the mountain. That’s the long way. Will take us quite a while.

Fine with me, SPHP! So, where do we go from here?

That way! Down to the visitor center, Looper.

Heading for the **Heather Meadows visitor center** (R). Photo looks W.

The visitor center was closed. Near it, displays were mounted on a rock wall overlooking the beautiful valley NE of Table Mountain.

**Table Mountain** (L) and the **Bagley Creek valley** (R). Photo looks W.

Huh. I don’t get it, Loopster! Late Tuesday morning in mid-August, and the visitor center is closed? Why?

We passed Mt. Baker Lodge on the way up, SPHP. Maybe this is just a ski resort area?

Hmm. You might be right, Looper. Winter’s probably when the big money is here. Quite an extensive trail system, though. I would think the visitor center would be open since it’s located by all these trails, and not over by the lodge or ski lifts.

No sign of the Chain Lakes trail, but a paved Fire & Ice trail headed SW. Maybe that was the way to go? Loop followed it down to a viewpoint overlooking upper Bagley Lake, but by then it was clear that the Fire & Ice trail was just going to loop back to the visitor center.

**Upper Bagley Lake** from the **Fire & Ice trail viewpoint**. Photo looks W.

Turning around to head back up to the visitor center, SPHP spotted a use trail leading over to a little ridge to the N.

Guess I’m not the only one that’s confused! Bet that use trail will get us down to the Chain Lakes trail! C’mon, Loop, let’s try it.

Worked great! Lupe was soon on a maintained trail that did lead down to the Chain Lakes trail, accessed via a stone bridge over Bagley Creek.

**Upper Bagley Lake** from the maintained trail. **Table Mountain** (L). Photo looks W.

Heading down to the stone bridge. Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the bridge over **Bagley Creek**.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe took the Chain Lakes trail W (L) along the N shore of Upper Bagley Lake. She came to one rocky section, but most of trail was flat and super easy.

Chain Lakes trail **N of Upper Bagley Lake**. Photo looks E.

Once past the lake, the trail began slowly gaining elevation. A remnant of a big snow field was melting off to the L. Soon a rock slide appeared ahead. The trail went right through it.

Approaching the rock slide. Photo looks W.

The melting snowfield. **HP5553** (Table Mountain’s E summit) (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing through the rock slide. Photo looks W.

Beyond the rock slide, the Chain Lakes trail entered the upper valley. Bagley Creek was only a small, tumbling stream up here. Lupe never had to cross it, but she did cross several tiny tributaries flowing over the trail as it began switchbacking higher.

**Bagley Creek** (L) from where the trail left it. Photo looks NW.

After switchbacking NNE up a steep slope, the Chain Lakes trail turned NW, now destined for Pass 5300 between Mazama Dome (5,800 ft.) and Table Mountain’s N Ridge. Views improved steadily during the long trek higher, but the sky remained as cloudy as ever.

**Pass 5300** (far L). **Mazama Dome** (L). Photo looks NW.

Looking SSE after climbing out of the valley. **Artist Point** (L), **HP5553** (R).

Getting closer to **Pass 5300** (L). **Mazama Dome** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Almost there! **Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (L), **Pass 5300** (R). Photo looks SSW.

12:34 PM, Pass 5300 – The Chain Lakes trail topped out more than 100 feet above Pass 5300 on Mazama Dome’s SE slopes. A shame it was still so cloudy! This was a very scenic area. Popular, too! Several groups of hikers were distributed about the region, and more were on the way.

About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?

That it was! Climbing a little above the trail, Lupe chose a boulder as a perch. SPHP shared the requested chocolate coconut bar with her.

On a clear day, the American Dingo would have enjoyed a spectacular view of Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.) well beyond Upper Bagley Lake, but only the lower slopes could be seen now. Part of what had to be Table Mountain’s summit region was visible to the SSW. Looked only a few hundred feet higher. No way to get over there from here, though. A 200+ foot high cliff ran all along the mountain’s N face.

**Mount Shuksan** (Center) in clouds beyond **Upper Bagley Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Pass 5300** with **Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (Center) beyond it. Photo looks S.

Views W of the pass were the most surprising, in fact, shocking, of all. Lasiocarpa Ridge (6,521 ft.) and Coleman Pinnacle (6,403 ft.) were in sight, but there was no sign of Iceberg Lake, largest of the Chain Lakes.

**Table Mountain** (L), **Coleman Pinnacle** (L of Center), **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Holy moly, Looper! I should have looked at the topo map more carefully!

Why? What’s wrong, SPHP?

Iceberg Lake is way down in a deep valley! Had no idea we were going to have to lose so much elevation! Here we’ve climbed all this way from Upper Bagley Lake only to have to lose it all again. Going to be a lot more elevation gain and loss on this little jaunt than I realized.

Well, not really. That was an exaggeration. Finally consulting the map, SPHP saw that the Carolina Dog was going to have to lose a little over 600 feet to get down to Iceberg Lake, half of what she’d gained on the way to Pass 5300 from Upper Bagley Lake. Still, 600 feet was nothing to sneeze at. It would all have to be regained soon enough.

For the moment, it was no big deal. Descending W of Pass 5300, losing 600 feet went smooth as silk on the good trail. Nice and easy! Lupe had barely started down when part of Iceberg Lake did come into view.

**Iceberg Lake** from the **W side of Pass 5300**. **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (L). Photo looks SW.

On the way down, Lupe lost sight of Iceberg Lake as the trail entered a heavily forested region. She’d lost nearly the entire required 600 feet when Hayes Lake, a smaller one N of Iceberg Lake, came into view.

**Hayes Lake**, middle lake of the **Galena Chain Lakes** group. Photo looks W.

Lucious, ripe blueberries were thick in this region, resulting in a delay as SPHP became entangled in the blueberry trap.

Come on, SPHP!

I’m trying, Loop, but they’re so scrumptious!

SPHP wasn’t trying very hard. Nevertheless, Lupe eventually prevailed. The Chain Lakes Trail continued WSW between Hayes Lake and Iceberg Lake. With the exception of one glimpse of Iceberg Lake, all the views were of Hayes Lake. Side trails went to Iceberg Lake, but they were all closed for restoration.

**W end of Iceberg Lake**. **Table Mountain** (L), **Coleman Pinnacle** (R). Photo looks S.

Beyond the gap between Hayes Lake and Iceberg Lake, the Chain Lakes trail turned S. Although only slightly W of Iceberg Lake, trees continued to block the views. SPHP was beginning to worry that Loopster never was going to get a good look at Iceberg Lake when, near the S end of the W shore, she came to a clearing.

And there was Iceberg Lake, deep green, mirror smooth, nestled at the foot of Table Mountain (5,742 ft.). Magnificent!

**Iceberg Lake**. **Pass 5300** (L), **Table Mountain** (Center, R). Photo looks E.

Near **Iceberg Lake’s outlet** (R). Photo looks SE.

From Iceberg Lake, the trail turned SW before curving S again to cross the outlet stream, one of the main sources of Wells Creek. Nearby, this stream flowed into Mazama Lakes, two small lakes very close together.

About to cross **Iceberg Lake’s outlet stream**. Photo looks S.

Convenient stepping stones so you don’t have to get your paws wet, if you don’t want to. Worked in mid-August!

From the S end of the smaller lake, which was little more than a pond, Wells Creek plunged into a deep canyon to the W.

Sounds like a big waterfall down there, SPHP!

The **smaller Mazama Lake**. An unseen waterfall leaves its far end. Photo looks S.

Sure did! The little stream made quite a roar as it exited the tiny lake. Would have been fun to go take a look, but if Lupe still hoped to climb Table Mountain, she needed to press on.

Whether climbing Table Mountain would even be possible, though, was increasingly in doubt. The Chain Lakes trail crossed a big rock slide as it left Mazama Lakes. Looking back, fog was sweeping in.

Leaving **Mazama Lakes**. Photo looks NNW.

**Mazama Lakes**. Getting foggy! Photo looks NW.

Crossing the rock slide. Photo looks SSE.

Gaining elevation again, the Chain Lakes trail became increasingly steep as Lupe continued past the rock slide. Fog came and went, but returned more and more frequently. A rounded ridge or hillside could sometimes be seen ahead. When Loop got there, the trail turned SE.

Heading for the **open ridge** or **hillside** (Center). Photo looks S.

The map showed a W route up Table Mountain somewhere not too far along this next trail section. Should be on the L. SPHP kept an eye out for it, as Lupe went through a forested stretch. Sure enough, she soon came to some kind of a trail that started up a steep slope on the L. No signage here, and the side trail was covered with branches, apparently to discourage its use.

Hmm. Maybe not such a good idea? Sticking with the Chain Lakes trail, Lupe kept going.

Upon leaving the forest, a long stretch of trail could be seen curving up to a much bigger open ridge. Views should have been spectacular along in here, but Loop enjoyed only occasional blurred glimpses of what was across the valley. Most of the time, she just trotted on through the fog.

Heading for the next big ridge (R). Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the next ridge, Lupe came to a 3-way junction. By now, about the only thing that was clear was that the American Dingo wasn’t going to get to climb Table Mountain. No sense in expending that much effort in a dense gray fog. However, she could still go past Artist Point to Huntoon Point (5,247 ft.), which was lower, and also had a trail to it.

What do you think, Looper? Want to tag Huntoon Point? Not going to see a thing, but at least it counts as an ascent for the day.

Huntoon is kind of a pointless point, aye, SPHP?

Afraid so, Loop. Your call. Doesn’t really matter to me.

The Carolina Dog was in favor. Turning R at the junction, she’d only been going a few minutes, when a friendly young couple appeared out of the fog. Fortunately, SPHP stopped to chat with them. Right away they set SPHP straight. This wasn’t the way to Artist or Huntoon Point.

This was the Ptarmigan Ridge trail. Artist Point would have been a L turn back at the junction. They were heading back that way right now.

The fog suddenly cleared. The young couple was right! Artist Point and Huntoon Point were visible along a ridge more than a mile E.

Fog immediately swept over the ridge again. The vision vanished, and so did the young couple, eager to be on their way.

Nice to know I’m in the good paws of such an experienced navigator! After all these years, can’t you even read a map, SPHP?

Oh, hush, uppity Dingo! You know how it is! Easy to get lost in the fog. No visual clues, and fog always makes it seem like one has gone a whole lot farther than is actually the case.

Especially when the fog is in your brain, SPHP!

No doubt! Well, whatever. I plead guilty. So what? Get over it. C’mon! Onward, Puppy ho!

Lupe went back to the junction, and this time headed for Artist Point.

Traversing a steep slope, the trail was flat now. Progress was rapid. Soon it seemed like there was less fog. Artist Point kept appearing and disappearing from view. Now and then, Lupe could see across the valley.

Heading for **Artist Point** (Center). **Huntoon Point** (R). Photo looks E.

View to the SE. **Huntoon Point** (L). **Mount Ann (5,840 ft.)** (R).

It was meant to be. Loopster wasn’t far from Artist Point when a rough trail appeared going up the slope to the N (L). At this precise moment, the sun broke through the clouds. Wonder of wonders, blue sky! SPHP paused to check the map.

This is it, Loop! Start of the Table Mountain trail!

I thought we passed it way back there, remember, SPHP?

That was the W approach. This is the E route. If it’s going to turn sunny, we can still go!

Looking up, the nearly vertical E end of Table Mountain was in sight. Two people were up there! Winding their way down the mountain, they were going pretty fast.

**E end of Table Mountain** (L) from the Chain Lakes trail. Photo looks NW.

C’mon, Loop! Let’s go talk to them!

Setting off on the rough side trail, a short climb got Lupe up to a clearing on a ridge. Turned out that there was another 3-way trail junction here. Maybe a good spot to wait for the 2 hikers.

Starting up the very rocky trail. Photo looks N.

An older couple soon appeared. They were happy to chat. The trail up Table Mountain wasn’t as difficult as they’d been led to believe. Despite constant exposure on the way up, the trail was good. Plenty wide, just have to be a little careful. Once on the summit plateau, the rest is easy. Absolutely gorgeous!

No one at all left up there now! Oh, and one more thing. No pets, due to some loose rock and the exposure.

And with that, they were on their way.

What? No pets! Lupe had seen lots of dogs on the Chain Lakes trail. No one had a problem with them.

Tough break, SPHP! Guess you’ll have to wait here. I’ll tell you all about it when I get back! Might want to brush up on your map reading till then.

Hey, now! They meant you, not me, crazy Dingo! You’re the pet. Besides, they said not a soul is up there. Might well be true, as foggy as its been. Let’s go sneak a peek at what’s involved.

Sure enough, Lupe passed 2 no pets signs in the forest before emerging where she had a clear view of Table Mountain’s E end. Both signs were old and almost falling over. SPHP wasn’t impressed.

Doesn’t look like they really care, Looper. We came more than 1,000 miles for this, and won’t be bothering anyone. Let’s have at it.

**E end of Table Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The trail up was awesome! Loose rocks? Yes, some, but Looper didn’t make any of them tumble. Mostly solid rock. Exposure? Yes, but the trail was always 3 or 4 feet wide. It wound ever higher in spectacular fashion. Soon the American Dingo was looking down on both Artist Point and Huntoon Point.

Awesome route! Despite appearances, completely non-technical. Just a walk-up.

**Artist Point parking lot** (Center) with **Huntoon Point** beyond it. Photo looks SE.

A bigger climb than it appeared, but it didn’t take that long for Lupe to reach the end of the exposed part of the trail. As the terrain leveled out, the trail curved W around the S side of a hill. Instead of following it, Lupe climbed the hill. A couple of minutes got her to HP5553.

4:30 PM, HP5553, Table Mountain’s E summit – Wow! Incredible! It was another world up here! Table Mountain had a much more alpine feel than the Chain Lakes trail did. Lots of rock, patches of snow, blue-green tarns. A few trees, mostly along the steep S edge of the mountain. The broad summit plateau stretched nearly 0.75 mile to the true summit at the far W end.

Lupe stood at the absolute high point of the E summit next to a small cairn. A taller one rested nearby on a lower rock formation. The older couple was right! Absolutely gorgeous up here! Only one disappointing development. Blue skies had been a fleeting phenomenon. None now. Whole sky was gray again, all the higher peaks hidden in the clouds.

At **HP5553**, **Table Mountain’s E summit**. Photo looks W.

**Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (R, beyond Lupe). Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

Oh, to have been here on a clear day! Why had the sun appeared, then forsaken the Carolina Dog? Mere glimpse of Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.), and no sign at all of Mount Baker (10,781 ft.).

**Mount Shuksan** (Center) from **HP5553**. Photo looks ESE.

It was what it was. Lupe was going to have to make the best of it. Still awesome up here! At least the local surroundings were all visible. Far better fortune than she’d been resigned to half an hour ago. Along the S edge of the summit plateau, the Table Mountain trail wound W toward the true summit.

Looks like fun, SPHP! C’mon, let’s get there before the whole mountain is socked in again!

A fabulous adventure ahead! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe headed W, picking up the trail again shortly before reaching a low spot where a big snowbank was melting away. Clearly, a frosty frolic was in order! Looper ran off to complete the mission.

Snow! Lovely, deliciously cold, snow! **Mazama Dome** (Center) in the clouds beyond **Table Mountain’s N ridge**. Photo looks NW.

The whole trek W was a grand time! A rumpled summit plateau made for a fair amount of up and down along the way. To Loopster’s delight, the Table Mountain trail actually crossed more snowbanks. By the forest along the S edge, it circled past a shallow tarn. Beneath the moody sky, there were rocky ascents and declines as wisps of fog sailed by.

Lupe had a blast exploring both on and off trail. The final rocky ascent to the true summit region at the W end of the plateau began all too soon.

Closing in on the W end of the summit plateau. Photo looks W.

Near the end, SPHP lost the trail again, making a short, but very steep scramble necessary.

Looking back from the top of the mini-scramble. Photo looks E.

Not much farther now! A last push higher, and the terrain began to level out. A forested high point was visible along the S edge of the mountain. At first, it appeared to be the true summit, but getting closer, a similar hillock obviously a bit higher appeared even farther W.

By now, Loop had rediscovered the trail, which continued on toward the second high point.

Final rocky climb ahead. Photo looks WSW.

5:26 PM, 48ºF, Table Mountain (5,742 ft.) – Foggy. Lupe stood on a flat rock at the top of a rise only 10 or 12 feet higher than the surrounding territory. A few trees and stumps took up much of the space on Table Mountain’s true summit, which was only 10 feet in diameter.

No indication of a survey benchmark, despite one shown on the map. No registry, or even a cairn. Under current circumstances, two small tarns to the NE at the base of this knoll were the only view.

Success! **Table Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks SW.

Outlaw American Dingo on **Table Mountain**.

Paw shaking time, Loopster! Congratulations on your successful ascent! Never would have believed it only a little while ago.

Thanks, SPHP! Might I take this opportunity to mention that paw shaking time is also chocolate coconut bar time?

SPHP found a spot to sit down. Showing true dedication while curled up on SPHP’s lap, the Carolina Dog did her best to lighten the pack of any lurking chocolate coconut bars, a project completed in jig time.

Born on a W breeze, fog streamed by, intermittently hiding even the nearby tarns to the NE. Occasionally the view opened up. Huge valleys were visible then, but not the surrounding peaks. A small tarn could be seen way down on a flat region to the N.

Conditions eventually improved. Far to the W, a bright patch of yellow sky appeared along the horizon. End of the clouds? Yellow brightness slowly grew, as if coming this way, but never seemed to get any closer. Then, suddenly, the lower glacier-clad slopes of Mount Baker cleared.

**Mount Baker** beyond **Coleman Spire** (L) and **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Beyond the two tarns to the NE, another heavily forested high point looked to be about the same elevation. The possibility that it might be the true summit couldn’t be ruled out from here.

We ought to investigate. Ready to do a little more exploring, Loop?

Already tired of sitting, the American Dingo was all for it. Going around the W end of the two tarns, she headed for the competing high point. SPHP kept an eye on Mount Baker, hoping more might be revealed.

Over at the competing high point, Lupe sniffed about the highest ground to the extent possible, but the forest was so dense that it was difficult to maneuver. Couldn’t see the first high point at all from here, so it really wasn’t possible to tell if this was actually the true summit, or not.

No survey benchmark, no cairn, not even a path into this thicket! Don’t think this is it, Loopster.

Farther NE, more high points were visible out on open terrain. Lupe ventured that way. Fun and interesting territory, but definitely lower.

**N portion of the true summit region**. **HP5553** (lower E summit) visible at (Center). **Mount Shuksan** (R). Photo looks E.

6:19 PM, Table Mountain – Returning to the consensus true summit, the American Dingo sat on the highest rock for the final time, Mount Baker still partially on display beyond her. Sadly, time to go.

Table Mountain has been a blast, SPHP! So glad we got to come here. Nothing against Huntoon Point, but this had to be better!

Yes, it’s been fun, Looper. Funny how things work out sometimes. The only brief sunny moment of the whole day at the right spot made all the difference. Never would have happened without that encouragement.

Final moments at **Table Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks SW.

The fun wasn’t over yet! Lupe had the whole return along the length of the entire summit plateau to look forward to, followed by that awesome snaking exposed route down off the mountain.

SPHP kept an eye on it, but Mount Baker’s summit never fully emerged from the clouds. Still some gorgeous views of the rest of the mountain, though, in the evening light. Lupe sniffed and ran to her heart’s content on the magnificent plateau. Progress was rapid going E, since it was mostly downhill this way.

**Mount Baker** (Center) during the descent. Photo looks SW.

7:29 PM – The sky was about as clear as it had been all day long when Lupe reached the official start of the Chain Lakes and Table Mountain trails at Artist Point. The giant parking lot and the road leading up to it from Austin Pass were new, open today for the first time after repair.

Perhaps why only a few vehicles were here this evening? Lupe went over to join the small crowd gathered to see Mount Baker at sunset. Sherman Peak (10,160 ft.) was visible from this perspective, too.

Start of the Chain Lakes and Table Mountain trails at Artist Point.

**Sherman Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Baker** (R) from **Artist Point**. Photo looks SW.

Just in time! Two minutes after reaching Artist Point, fog came boiling up out of the valley to the S. The show was over. Sherman and Baker vanished in an instant. The fog was so dense that SPHP had a hard time finding the road leaving the parking lot.

The rest was easy. A pleasant brand new road hike all the way down to Austin Pass. Lupe was soon below the fog. She wasn’t far from the end, when the clouds to the E fled, revealing Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.).

**Mount Shuksan** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Lupe’s RAV4 (blue) down at **Austin Pass**. Photo looks N.

The Chain Lakes trail and Table Mountain! What a fantastic, memorable day! No doubt would have been even better, if the skies had been blue. Lupe had been lucky, though, and had gotten to see almost everything.

In any case, there can’t be too many Carolina Dogs that can say they have ever seen Mount Baker from the glorious, fog-swept summit of Table Mountain! (End 8:25 PM, 51ºF)

**Mount Baker** from **Table Mountain**, Cascade Range, Washington 8-17-21

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Winchester Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington (8-16-21)

Days 7 – 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-12-21, 6:45 AM, 59ºF, NE Washington – Bluer skies! Perhaps a shame Lupe had climbed Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) yesterday?

Eh, maybe not. By the time the RAV4 made it out of the forest and back to Hwy 9435, it was apparent that there was still a lot of smoke around.

Not looking very good, SPHP! What are we going to do?

We’ll just stick with the plan, Looper. Keep driving W until we either find blue skies again, or run out of continent.

Running out of continent seemed a distinct possibility. From Colville, SPHP drove W on Hwy 20. Hour after hour went by. Lupe barked at cows and horses whenever she could, but didn’t see many, and wound up snoozing in air-conditioned comfort much of the day. Should have been a beautiful drive, but smoke was everywhere, marring the views.

In fact, the drive W only seemed to make matters worse. Approaching Washington Pass in the N Cascades, fabulous towering peaks were in all directions. All a hazy blur, though. SPHP didn’t even bother to stop at a pullout. W of the Cascades, Lupe actually was running out of continent. A scorching 97ºF, and smoky, even here. Unfathomable!

What to do? After fueling up in Burlington, the day ended with a drive N on I-5 to Bellingham, then E on Hwy 542 back up into the Cascades until a L turn onto USFS Road No. 3065 to Twin Lakes appeared. Driving up to the Yellow Aster trailhead, SPHP didn’t like the looks of it. 1.5 miles back down No. 3065, a hidden side road dead-ended at a flat spot overlooking Swamp Creek.

Only 70ºF here. So much better! Lupe was set for the night.

8-13-21, 7:51 AM, 55ºF, Swamp Creek – Humid, yet smoky. Definitely worse this morning, but maybe conditions were better higher up, or would improve by the time Lupe could get to Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)? After spending nearly the entire day in the RAV4 yesterday, the American Dingo was at least going to give it a shot.

Leaving the Swamp Creek camp behind, Lupe trotted along the narrow lane leading back to USFS Road No. 3065. Upon reaching it, she turned R heading NW for Twin Lakes.

End of the lane campsite near Swamp Creek.

On the lane leading back to USFS Road No. 3065.

A miles long, uphill road hike past Yellow Aster trailhead to Twin Lakes was in store, but the Carolina Dog was happy just being on the move. Progress was good. After passing a mile 3 marker, the road leveled out and widened at a small clearing. On the R was a line of beehive boxes, where plenty of activity was in sight.

Allergic to insect stings, SPHP stayed way over on the L, hoping to slip by without incident. However, a single bee came flying over, unhappy with the intrusion. Lupe watched as SPHP repeatedly batted the bee away with a pole. Increasingly angry, the dang insect kept coming back for more. A particularly good thwack finally dazed the bee long enough to get past the beehives.

Fortunately, none of the bee’s comrades had felt threatened enough to join in the attack.

Beyond the beehives, Twin Lakes Road resumed its climb. An amazingly dense forest with thick underbrush lined both sides. Bushwhacking would be a near impossibility in a steep jungle like this! Fortunately, no need for that. Lupe passed several rushing streams that went through culverts. A view finally opened up where it was possible to see across the valley. The smoke was discouragingly thick.

Loop was getting close to the Yellow Aster trailhead when she came to a stream that trickled right over the road. Two Honda Elements appeared on their way down the mountain. The first one stopped. A young couple inside said they’d just spent the night up at Twin Lakes. The smoke was terrible up there now, so bad that it stung the eyes. Completely ruined their plans, so they were heading home. And with that cheery tidbit, both Elements were on their way.

Well, fiddlesticks, Loopster!

This is a fail, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah. No doubt about it now. Worst part of it was that SPHP had to run the beehive gauntlet again. Sure enough, that same lone deranged bee launched another attack. Insect brain must have had quite a headache by the time Lupe managed to get by again.

8-13-21, 9:13 AM, Swamp Creek – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

So, what’s the plan? Where to now, SPHP?

Why bless you, Looper, for thinking that I even have a plan. About the only thing I can think of is to keep going W. Maybe out on the Olympic Peninsula skies are blue? Last bit of continent we have left before total, abject defeat.

Heading W out of the mountains on Hwy 542, SPHP saw a ranger station near Glacier, and stopped to buy a Northwest Forest Annual Pass. $30. What a deal! S of Everett, I-5 was stop and go traffic. Seattle was a 100°F nightmare, creeping along for hours on end. Once again, the RAV4’s AC got a workout. Fortunately, it was up to the task.

Took all day to get around to the S end of the Olympic Peninsula, but at least the air quality was much better. As night came on, SPHP finally parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along some unmarked USFS Road a few miles N of Wynoochee Lake.

8-14-21 – Like dominoes, one fiasco led to the next. The plan for the day was to climb Discovery Peak (4,837 ft.). Not smoky here, but on USFS Road No. 2270 on the way to the trailhead, it became clear that there was a new problem. The high country was all lost in the clouds. Not going to see a thing, even if Lupe could manage to climb the mountain.

The American Dingo did get to see a waterfall alongside the road before SPHP gave up and turned the RAV4 around.

The consolation waterfall along USFS Road No. 2270.

On the way out, Loopster might as well have a look at Wynoochee Lake while she was in the area, too. Due to drought, the lake was low, but it was still in a lovely setting.

Since the mountains were clouded over, maybe Lupe could stop at a beach along the Pacific Ocean? Sounded like fun. Saturday, though. Driving N on Hwy 101 all the beaches were packed. Nowhere to park. Brief glimpses of the ocean flashed by between the trees.

Aren’t you even going to stop, SPHP? The Pacific Ocean is right there! We’re missing it!

Naw. Too crowded. Let’s try for Cape Alava, instead! It’s on the West Coast way up near the N end of the Olympic Peninsula. Westernmost point of the 48 contiguous US states! An easy 3 mile boardwalk trail through the rain forest from Ozette Lake will get us to the Pacific, where we can stroll another mile N along a scenic rocky beach to Tskawahyah Island. Surely, it won’t be so busy. How does that sound, Loop?

Sounded great, but Ozette Lake was a long winding drive. At Sekiu, Lupe just had to stop to get up onto a brightly painted rock, and take a look at Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

**Vancouver Island** across the **Strait of Juan de Fuca**. Photo looks NNE.

Just think, SPHP! Canada, right over there!

Yep. Tantalizingly close, Loopster, but still the forbidden land.

8-14-21, 4:16 PM, Ozette Lake, Olympic Peninsula – Finally, some action! Expectantly, Lupe stood on the bridge leading to the Cape Alava trail, waiting for SPHP. Parking hadn’t been a problem, but only because the parking lot was huge. Must have been more than 100 vehicles present.

Sorry, Loopster, but Cape Alava is out. We can’t go.

What? After coming all this way! Why not, SPHP?

I didn’t even think about this being part of Olympic National Park, Loop. No Dingoes allowed!

With No Dingo signs everywhere, tons of people around, and a ranger station right at the trailhead, this just wasn’t going to work. Doomed!

The counter-clockwise journey around the Olympic Peninsula resumed. A brief stop at the Pillar Point Recreation Area along the Strait of Juan de Fuca was small consolation for the Cape Alava fail, but Lupe did enjoy the rare ocean sniffing.

**Pillar Point** (Center) along the **Strait of Juan de Fuca**. Photo looks NNW.

8-14-21, 8:40 PM, Port Townsend – Too late! Last ferry to Whidbey Island left 10 minutes ago. Par for the course! The entire venture around the Olympic Peninsula had been a colossal waste of time and fuel. Lupe had seen a gazillon trees, but hadn’t climbed any peaks, and had spent hardly any time at the ocean.

Drive clear back through Seattle in the night when the traffic wouldn’t be so bad, or stay here and wait for morning?

Lupe waited.

8-15-21 – Waiting was the right call. Sunday morning! Plenty of room on the 6:30 AM ferry. Cool, and very foggy, so there was absolutely nothing to see, even if Lupe had left the RAV4.

The Carolina Dog arrived at Whidbey Island without having to endure another long drive through Tacoma and Seattle. Sunny with clear blue skies by the time she reached Bellingham! Loopster spent a pleasant morning at Whatcom Falls Park and Whatcom Lake. In the afternoon, she had to wait in the RAV4 while SPHP dined with Erik, Ana, and their friend, Erin, on the veranda at Anthony’s.

8-16-21, 8:17 AM, 62ºF, Swamp Creek – Lupe was back! Raining, but only lightly. At least there wasn’t any smoke.

Well, wha’dya think, Loopster? Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)? Might get skunked again.

All excited, the were-puppy attacked!

Ack! Stop! I’ll take that as a yes. Onward! Puppy ho!

This time, no bee dared come out to harass SPHP as Lupe trotted on past the beehives. The miles long road trek up the side of the Swamp Creek valley wasn’t all that exciting, but eventually there was a great view of Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) back to the SW.

Passing the Tomyhoi/Yellow Aster trailhead. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Baker** (L) from Twin Lakes Road. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Baker** with help from the telephoto lens.

The rain had ended well before Mount Baker came into sight, giving rise to hopes that maybe the clouds would dissipate. However, the situation didn’t change much as Loopster wound her way up 5 long switchbacks. Meanwhile, across the valley, views of Goat Mountain (6,840 ft.) were steadily improving.

**Goat Mountain E** (Center) **and W** (R) **summits** from the switchbacks. Photo looks S.

At the upper end of the last switchback, the road finally leveled out and curved NE as Lupe reached the Twin Lakes trailhead. The first lake and Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) were now in sight.

**Winchester Mountain** (Center). Photo looks N.

Near the **SW Twin Lake**. Photo looks NNE.

The road led over to the area between the Twin Lakes. Several vehicles and tents were there. Before passing between the lakes, Lupe climbed a knoll with a view of both lakes and Winchester Mountain beyond them.

Heading over to the area between the lakes. Photo looks NE.

**Winchester Mountain** (Center) from the knoll. Photo looks NW.

The **NE Twin Lake**. **Pocket Peak (7,056 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NE.

After coming down off the knob and passing between the lakes, Lupe reached the start of the Winchester Mountain and High Pass trails. SPHP paused for a look at the posted map and trail information.

Seemed simple enough. Stay to the L where High Pass trail No. 676 splits off, then follow Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 to the lookout at the summit. Without further ado, Looper was on her way.

Setting out from Twin Lakes. Photo looks S.

Didn’t take long at all to reach a marker at the junction with High Pass trail No. 676. Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 continued to the L, winding steadily up the mountain’s SE slope.

Marker at the Winchester Mountain and High Pass trails junction.

The easy to only moderately steep trail was in great shape. Early views included Pocket Peak (7,056 ft.) and Big Bosom Buttes (6,521 ft.) to the E, plus the W summit of Goat Mountain (6,725 ft.) and Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) to the S.

**Goat Mountain’s W Peak** (L). Photo looks SSW.

**Pocket Peak** (L) and **Big Bosom Buttes** (Center & R), along with the **NE Twin Lake** (R). Photo looks ENE.

**Winchester Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

Blueberries caused some delays. Absolutely delicious, and the views were better at each stop! Bear Peak (6,480 ft.) came into sight beyond the Twin Lakes. Soon Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.) could be seen between Goat Mountain’s E and W summits.

**Big Bosom Buttes** (L). **Mount Chardonnay** and **NE Twin Lake** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Bear Peak** (Center). **E & W summits of Goat Mountain** (R) with **Mount Shuksan** in the distance between them. Photo looks S.

Well up on the SE slopes of Winchester Mountain, Trail No. 685 leveled out and turned SW toward a pass next to a big knob of rock along the S ridge. The only stretch of trail that required any caution was just ahead, a narrow, sloping band of tan rock that led up to the pass.

Trail No. 685 levels out **high on Winchester Mountain’s SE slope**. Photo looks W.

Approaching the pass (Center) on the S ridge. Photo looks SW.

On the tan rock band, just below the pass.

The tan rock band wasn’t as daunting as it appeared from a distance. Once up at the pass, the trail curved sharply NW. A whole new vista was ahead, the rocky shoulder of Winchester Mountain’s SW ridge. Before continuing on, Lupe paused for a last look down on Twin Lakes.

SPHP was also keeping an eye on Mount Baker, because it seemed to be getting cloudier now. Unfortunately, the magnificent, glacier-clad peak might not be visible by the time the American Dingo managed to get to Winchester Mountain’s summit.

**Twin Lakes** from the S pass. **Bear Peak** (R of Center). **E summit of Goat Mountain** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Another glance at **Mount Baker** as more clouds seem to be moving in. Photo looks SW.

**Winchester Mountain’s SW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

The trail headed toward another pass leading to the SW ridge, but did not go all the way to it, instead switchbacking steadily up Winchester’s SW slope. Once high enough, Lupe could see Tomyhoi Peak (7,435 ft.) and Mount McGuire (6,588 ft.) beyond the gap.

Higher yet, a dramatic display of American Border Peak (7,994 ft.), plus Mount Larrabee (7,861 ft.) and The Pleiades (7,520 ft.) came into view.

Approaching the **W pass** (R) to **Winchester’s SW ridge** (L). The trail did not go all the way to it. Photo looks NNW.

**Tomyhoi Peak** (Center), **Mount McGuire** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**American Border Peak** (L), **Mount Larrabee** (L of Center), and **The Pleiades** (R). Photo looks N.

The switchbacks grew shorter and shorter, as Trail No. 685 snaked higher. Couldn’t be much farther! Suddenly, a gray building appeared. The lookout! Lupe had arrived!

Almost there! **Mount Larrabee** (L). **Winchester summit** (R). Photo looks NNE.

By the Winchester Mountain lookout. Photo looks W.

8-16-21, 12:06 PM, 53ºF, Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) – A little tan knob of rock a few feet N of the lookout was Winchester Mountain’s true summit. Claiming her peakbagging success, Lupe visited it briefly, but that wasn’t where the action was. The big, splendid view was to the N from rock outcroppings ENE of the lookout – Mount Larrabee flanked by the dramatic spire of American Border Peak and rugged Pleiades.

Success! On the **true summit**. Photo looks NW.

The lookout from the rock outcroppings with the big views. Photo looks WSW.

**Canadian Border Peak (7,470 ft.)** (far L), **American Border Peak** (L), and **Mount Larrabee** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Too bad it was such a gray day! Winchester Mountain offered a lot of scenic splendor for a summit with such an easy trail all the way to the top. A vast sea of glamourous peaks extended in all directions.

No complaints! At least there wasn’t any smoke for once, and Lupe could see what was out there. Glancing over at Mount Baker gradually being enveloped in clouds, it was apparent that the Carolina Dog might have reached the top of Winchester Mountain with little time to spare.

I know you’ve earned a chocolate coconut bar and some Taste of the Wild, Looper, but we better get a few photos while we still can!

Final look at **Mount Baker** (Center) in the midst of its disappearing act. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Baker**. Zoomed in even more. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Shuksan** (Center) between the **Goat Mountain peaks**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Tomyhoi Peak** (L) and **Mount McGuire** (R). **Tomyhoi Lake** below. Photo looks NW.

So many magnificent mountains! SPHP knew the names of only a few. Happily, a man who had been relaxing in the lookout eventually came out and was able to identify Mount Redoubt (8,969 ft.), which was nearly beyond vision on the far E horizon.

To the SE, snowy Ruth Mountain (7,115 ft.) was lined up directly behind Bear Peak, with Mount Chardonnay (7,020 ft.) closer and farther E.

**The Pleiades** (L), with countless other inspiring peaks in sight SPHP didn’t recognize. Photo looks NE.

**Big Bosom Buttes** (Center) in the foreground with **Mount Redoubt** (L of Center) on the horizon framed between them. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Chardonnay** (L of Center), **Bear Peak** (R) with **Ruth Mountain** (R) beyond. Photo looks SE.

After introductions, SPHP asked Matt Westerheide, if a registry was in the lookout? Matt said that there was. So, Lupe got to go inside. On a small table sat the largest, most elaborate old registry SPHP had ever seen. Loopster’s name got added, of course!

Matt was very friendly, and happy to meet Lupe and chat with SPHP. As it turned out, Matt was living the dream! Since 2018, he had been living out of his van while traveling to many beautiful places between gigs as a contract nurse. He was a big time skier and kayaker, who did a little mountain climbing, too. Tonight he intended to stay up here in the Winchester Mountain lookout.

Matt was an incredibly interesting guy. Upon learning that Lupe hoped to visit Oregon on this Dingo Vacation, he recommended the Trail of Ten Falls in Silver Falls State Park an hour from Portland, and Thor’s Well along the Oregon coast.

With a new friend, adventurer Matt Westerheide, in the snug lookout.

8-16-21, 3:16 PM, Winchester Mountain – After a long, most entertaining conversation, Lupe and SPHP left Matt to enjoy his stay at the lookout. Once again, the Carolina Dog stood on the rock outcropping with that splendid view of Mount Larrabee and American Boundary Peak.

Nothing remained. A cold, damp, gray fog had settled over Winchester Mountain.

Well, at least Lupe had arrived in time to see the world earlier on from this beautiful place. If the weather cleared, she’d get to visit another one tomorrow, a special spot not too far away that was already on her list. Matt had been there yesterday, and highly recommended it.

Staring briefly into the fog, SPHP sighed, then followed Lupe back down lovely Winchester Mountain. (End 8-16-21, 6:16 PM, 59ºF, light rain)

On **Winchester Mountain**, Cascade Range, Washington 8-16-21

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