Summer of 2020 – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Year of Perfect Vision Strikes Again! (9-5-20 to 9-9-20)

Days 4-8 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-5-20, 9:32 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains, Montana – For once, SPHP had been the one to wake up early. After the American Dingo’s witching hour return from a hugely successful journey to the Froze to Death Plateau and Tempest Mountain yesterday, Lupe was the one still zonked in the tiny house.

As SPHP packed for the journey back to the West Rosebud trailhead, Looper snoozed as long as she could. Not until a bee flew into the tiny house did she decide to emerge to lay on the grass, permitting SPHP to roll up her sleeping bag and begin disassembly, a task soon completed.

At **Pass 10140**. **Mount Wood (12,660 ft.)** (L). Photo looks NW.

A final contemplation of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), where she’d been only yesterday, and Lupe set out across the broad plain of Pass 10140. Picking up Phantom Creek trail No. 17, she started the long trek down to Mystic Lake.

*Farewell, **Froze to Death Mountain** (Center)!* Photo looks SW.

About to head down Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

Saturday, first day of Labor Day weekend! The weather was perfect, the single track trail in great condition, and the scenery stupendous! Going down was so much faster and easier than coming up had been. Upon reaching the trees, Lupe kept an eye out for squirrels. SPHP was in a cheery mood, and often spoke to hikers on their way up.

By the time Loop made it Mystic Lake, she’d passed 18 people intent upon climbing Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the Montana state high point.

Scenic Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks SW.

9-5-20, 12:16 PM, Mystic Lake – Mystic Lake was busy! Lots of people around and more arriving all the time. And why not? What a jewel!

Loop and SPHP found a relatively quiet spot along the S shore. No real rush to get back to the West Rosebud trailhead. For a serene half hour, Lupe rested next to Mystic Lake, enjoying a cool breeze while watching the waves roll in. SPHP sat nearby, soaking a couple of sore paws in the Oh, so refreshing! water.

**Mystic Lake** in the Beartooth Mountains! A new favorite place! Photo looks WNW.

SPHP’s paws comfortably numb, the Carolina Dog hit West Rosebud trail No. 19. Before heading through the gap on top of the wall of rock E of the lake, Lupe paused for a final look. What a gorgeous mountain lake! Easily accessible, too! Only 3 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation gain from the West Rosebud trailhead.

**Mystic Lake**, Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks WSW.

*Exquisite! What a setting!* Photo looks WSW.

Mystic Lake was no big secret. Hordes of people were coming up the West Rosebud trail. Many canines to sniff with, too! Lots of kids and people with fishing gear. Everyone was in fine spirits. The march down Trail No. 19 was rockier than SPHP remembered, but it all went fast.

9-5-20, 3:00 PM, 90ºF, West Rosebud trailhead – Hoo-eee! Summer ain’t over yet! Baking hot down here! SPHP had noticed a picnic area during the drive in 3 days ago some miles back along the washboardy road to the trailhead. Once all the gear got stashed in the G6, Lupe enjoyed some AC on the slow, bumpy ride to it.

Although everywhere else was overrun with people, the picnic ground was empty. Good spot to spend the rest of the day! West Rosebud creek, a lovely stream back up at the trail, was a full-fledged river here. Beef stew, rest, relaxation! Despite 91ºF heat, Lupe refused to leave her pink blankie in the G6. SPHP rolled all the windows completely down, and gave her plenty of food and water.

Crunching away, the American Dingo complained between mouthfuls.

I can’t believe it, SPHP! You really did have a bag of Fritos in the G6!

Told ya!

Why didn’t you bring them with when we went into the mountains? I sure could have used them to entice those salt-starved mountain goats!

Never really considered that angle, Loop. Besides, Fritos don’t travel well jammed into a backpack. All we would have gotten up there with would have been some salty roasted corn flour.

Still would have worked, SPHP! Those goats were desperate! They lick pissed-on rocks for salt! Do you really think they would be too fastidious to munch a little corn flour?

OK, OK! My bad! Next time, alright, Looper? Can we just forget it?

Oh, I suppose. Too late now, anyway! Any more Fritos left? Pass me some more, would ya? And fill my water bowl again, too, please.

9-6-20, 6:40 AM, West Rosebud trailhead overflow parking – The sun was just rising. SPHP immediately saw how lucky Lupe had been the past several days. 2020, the Year of Perfect Vision, had struck again! Smoke of distant forest fires filled the air, obscuring the Beartooths. Deja vu! Getting to be a tiresome theme, but one likely to keep repeating unless the W got some serious rain. Fat chance of that this time of year!

A rest and positioning day, anyway. The Carolina Dog was done here. Smoky or not, no sense in sticking around. Loopster had a grand time barking at cows and horses as the G6 went on the prowl, searching for the next big adventure. Reasonably clear skies were now the primary criteria.

9-6-20, 9:47 AM, Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, Hwy 120 – Driven out of Montana by the haze, Lupe stood on the bank of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River shortly after entering Wyoming.

This was the same river she had a favorite camping spot next to with a view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) high in the Beartooths, E of Yellowstone National Park. Up there, it was a lively mountain stream with rapids and a chilly swimming hole, just on the verge of becoming large enough to be worthy of the designation “river”. Down here in the sagebrush desert, the Clarks Fork was much wider, still rippling along, but also far more placid and ordinary.

Along the **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River**. Photo looks SE.

Wyoming Hwy No. 120 bridge 8 or 9 miles S of the Montana border. Photo looks N.

The Edelweiss Bar & Cafe, along with its mostly deserted campground and picnic area, was just a quick sniffing stop, a chance to get out and stretch. Quiet today, but once upon a time this had been an exciting spot, an integral part of one of those heroic, dramatic events so common in the tragic history of the world.

In 1877, the Nez Perce tribe under Chief Joseph made a daring, desperate escape from the U.S. Army in this area. Sadly, their success did not last. The army caught up with them shortly before they reached the Canadian border, where they’d hope to join up with Sitting Bull’s band of Sioux. A series of plaques at the bar’s parking lot related the story.

Less than a mile SW, Hwy 120 went over the Clarks Fork a second time. A primitive dirt road on the R (NW) provided a less developed access point. Why not? Lupe had all day. SPHP nursed the G6 along a rutty road before finding a spot to stash it near the river.

The **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone** is running a little low, but after all, it is September! Would look a lot different during the spring runoff from the Beartooths!

*Looks like Wyoming to me! See the **Beartooths** on the horizon? No? They’re in the haze.*

The only thing clear about the Beartooths, which still ought to have been easily visible from here, was that they were much too smoky to entertain the notion of remaining anywhere in the general area.

Out on the sagebrush plains of Wyoming, Lupe kept a close watch as SPHP drove S, but even cattle were scarce. Lacking entertainment, the Carolina Dog’s eyes grew heavy. Soon she was snoozing in AC’d comfort as the miles rolled by and temperature soared.

9-6-20, 1:24 PM, Wind River Canyon, Hwy 20/789, S of Thermopolis – Not much of a water Dingo, Lupe preferred to rest on the bank of the Wind River while watching SPHP swim, but SPHP had carted her out to the white rock she sat on now for a photo. She didn’t know it yet, but there wasn’t going to be a free ride back to shore. Looper was going to have to wade, SPHP’s diabolical plot to force her to get thoroughly cooled off, but she wouldn’t mind. In fact, since it wasn’t deep, she’d linger a minute or two, enjoying the cool water.

*Oh, the **Wind River Canyon** is beautiful! Not quite so smoky, either! Maybe we’re headed the right way?*

SPHP had just enjoyed a refreshing half hour swim in Rattler Whirlpool, an enormous eddy in the Wind River with a gentle current along the near bank that consistently flowed upstream, greatly reducing any prospect of being swept down river.

This was the second time Lupe had been here this summer. SPHP had gone swimming in this exact same giant eddy back in July, too, but the name “Rattler Whirlpool” was a new one. No one had been here when Loop first arrived today, but a Jeep had soon come down the access road, parking 40 feet away. Whoever was in it stayed inside for a while, then suddenly leapt out to shout the news that there was a rattlesnake over there and to be careful, before leaping back in and driving off.

Neither Loop nor SPHP saw the rattler before walking back up to the G6. Probably for the best.

9-6-20, 4:00 PM, 90ºF, Lander city park – Nearly a week into September, and still 90ºF! Actually a little cooler now than it had been earlier. 93ºF on the way over from Riverton! There’d been one more stop, a brief one to examine a herd of wild horses racing through the desert beneath a stormy sky – a mural painted on the Hudson town hall.

Snazzy mural on the side of the Hudson, Wyoming town hall.

Like Rattler Whirlpool, Lupe had been here before, too, this summer. At the S end of 3rd Street right across from the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River, Lander city park was awesome! Free camping on a soft green lawn beneath shady old cottonwoods.

The park was going to be home for the evening. Normally, small streams flow in a couple of ditches running through the park, but they were bone dry now. A stroll over to the Middle Popo Agie River revealed that it was almost gone as well, a trickling remnant of its normal self. Shocking! Lupe had never seen the Popo Agie so low before. Fortunately, that didn’t interfere with a thrilling evening of squirrel watching.

Riveting times on the soft green lawn of Lander city park.

Unfortunately, still pretty smoky out. Maybe tomorrow would bring good news on that front? SPHP tried to be optimistic, but, in truth, felt mighty skeptical. Attempts to evade smoke hadn’t worked on Looper’s last Dingo Vacation. There wasn’t much reason to believe they would pan out this time around, either.

Labor Day, 9-7-20, 11:56 AM, Lander city park – Actually got chilly last night. Breezy and definitely cooler this morning. Apparently not going to be another scorcher. Encouragingly, not quite so smoky either! After walks through the park, Lupe had spent the morning dozing whenever there was a lull in the squirrel watching action.

Hey, Loopster!

Got the trip journal caught up. About ready for the next big adventure?

Sure! Where we going, SPHP?

Thinking we’ll head up to the trailhead for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) here in the Wind River Range. We were going to climb it back in July, but the access road was closed due to road construction, remember? The repairs were supposed to wrap up back on August 20th. Ought to be open by now.

Sounds good! Are we leaving right away?

Yeah, in just a few minutes. Need to make a quick stop at Safeway to pick up some supplies before we leave town.

Heading SE out of Lander on Hwy 287/28, Lupe was just getting psyched up for some much anticipated barking at cows and horses, when SPHP made a sudden U-turn.

Forget something, SPHP?

No. Did you see that big lighted sign next to the road, Loop?

Umm. Can’t say that I did. Wasn’t paying much attention to signs. What about it?

It was unbelievable! Gotta take another look. Maybe I read it wrong?

Making another U-turn, SPHP drove slowly past the sign again. No doubt about it. Alternating with a “High Fire Danger” message was another one saying “Heavy snow, poor visibility, 9PM to 6PM Tuesday”.

“9PM to 6PM Tuesday”! That must mean they’re expecting this storm to hit at 9PM on Monday, Loop.

Today is Monday, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, it’s Labor Day, and Labor Day is always on a Monday.

How can that sign possibly be right, SPHP? Not even 8 hours until 9PM right now, and it’s 77ºF!

I don’t know. A blizzard tonight? Seems impossible. Maybe the highway department is just testing the sign? It was 93ºF only yesterday!

Just keep going, SPHP. Maybe another sign will say something different?

Loopster was right! Along Hwy 28 on the way up into the SE end of the Wind River Range, more lighted signs appeared. All bore exactly the same message, different from the first sign’s message. Unfortunately, not much different.

What now, indeed?

Sheesh! The Year of Perfect Vision strikes again! Sure knows how to throw us one curve ball after another, Loopster!

Are we still going to the trailhead, SPHP? Do you think it’s wise?

Umm, no. That’s all we need, to wake up tomorrow morning in a blizzard already snowed in at 9,400 feet, miles from the highway. Time for Plan B, Looper! Or maybe it’s Plan C or D by now?

What’s Plan B, or C or D, or whatever?

I’ll let you know, as soon as I think of it, sweet puppy!

SPHP kept driving right over the Wind River Range. 81ºF at Farson, but more signs bearing the same message had been seen along the way.

OK, Loop, here’s the deal!

Do tell! I’m all ears, SPHP!

Well, not entirely, but they are pretty big. Apparently some freak storm is moving in tonight. I mean, who has ever heard of a blizzard on Labor Day? We’ve never even run into one clear up in Alaska this time of year. Anyway, this goofy storm will clear the air out, and the temperature will likely rebound within a few days. However, if it drops a lot of new snow as expected, might be very difficult to do anything among the high peaks until some big portion of it melts, which might easily take several more days.

Logical enough, SPHP. So what do we do about it?

Plan B, which probably makes the most sense, is to cut and run right now. Just call it good, and head for home. We could be there late, late tonight! No sense hanging around here for nearly a week waiting for a blizzard to hit, and then for the snow to melt. At least we got lucky and got to have a grand time in the Beartooths for a few days.

Pathetic! So, our Dingo Vacation is over already?

Afraid so.

What about Plans C & D, SPHP?

Plan D, I haven’t come up with yet. Plan C is to head S trying to out run the storm. Maybe it won’t get past the Uinta Range, or miss it to the E? Don’t really have anything planned down there, but we could probably come up with a few peaks to climb somewhere in Utah.

I like Plan C better, SPHP! Can we do that?

I suppose. If that’s what you want. Sort of a long shot, but who knows, it might work out fantastically! Sometimes it pays to be flexible.

If you don’t mind then, SPHP, let’s go for it! What have we got to lose? It’s an adventure! Onward! G6, ho!

Well, there was all that money wasted on fuel to lose, if Plan B didn’t pan out, but SPHP complied. The whole situation was surrealistic. Driving S on Hwy 191, the G6 registered 86ºF. Fleeing snow? Tonight? Absurd! Ridiculous! The only indicator of any big change in the weather was that it was getting windy. And off to the N, (Yes, the N!), the formerly smoky sky was turning blue.

Even if Plan B proved futile, which remained to be seen, the scenic drive was fun! After entering Utah, SPHP briefly dropped by the visitor center at the Flaming Gorge dam. Personnel inside confirmed that the forecast was for 2 days of snow. Might possibly be able to do something around here tomorrow morning before it hit.

A N wind was blowing during a brief stop at **Flaming Gorge reservoir**, Utah.

Tomorrow morning? That wouldn’t be enough time to accomplish much. Onward! The drive S continued.

Not windy S of the Uintas! At least, not yet. Instead, it was back to the same old problem. At Steinaker Reservoir, N of Vernal, the air was thick with smoke. A sickly orange-pink sun glimmered through a choking haze, it’s light reflecting on the still large, but half-withered lake.

Vernal was the land of Mordor, suffocating in a dense blanket of smoke. Off to the W, though, the sky was brighter, as if there was a definite edge to the cloud. A check of the atlas. Hmm. There was a Gray Head Peak (9,496 ft.) and an Indian Head Peak (9,959 ft.) shown SW of Duchesne. Maybe Lupe could climb one of them tomorrow?

Potentially promising! Definitely less smoke, and not so stifling hot (68ºF), when SPHP parked the G6 for the night in the Ashley National Forest SW of Duchesne.

9-8-20, 7:17 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 191, Ashley National Forest – Lupe hopped out of the G6, ready for adventure. Sleet, borne on a cold, raw breeze! Must have just started, only a little clinging to the G6 so far.

Sorry, Lupe.

Not happening, is it, SPHP?

Nope. No way we’re going to climb Gray Head or Indian Head today. Gotta face the music, Loop. We could keep going, but it doesn’t make any sense. If we go far enough to escape the storm, we’ll just run into smoke. Umpteen fires blazing away out in California, and we’d just be getting closer to them.

Seems the Year of Perfect Vision has us cornered, doesn’t it?

In a way, but our little fiascos are nothing compared to what others have had to deal with this year. So shake it, off Lucky Dingo! Your summer of 2020 adventures might be over and done with, but others will be heading your way soon enough.

That last part turned out to be true enough. Having given up on this Dingo Vacation, just getting home proved to be an adventure in itself.

9-8-20, 10:38 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 40, NW Colorado – Vernal had been a balmy 44ºF this morning as SPHP drove through it, but snow had been visible on the foothills of the Uinta Range, and dark clouds hung low obscuring the mountains. Maybe best not to go back that way! As a result, SPHP had kept driving E. However, conditions had rapidly deteriorated E of Dinosaur, Colorado.

Now Lupe stood out in the gale at a “Point of Interest” 4 miles W of the little town of Maybell. What the point of interest might pertain to was a mystery. Signs were all plastered in snow and ice. The Year of Perfect Vision was putting an emphatic end to any notions of “Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations”. Substitute “winter” for “summer” and maybe Lupe would be on to something.

Craig, Colorado was in a low spot. No snow, just rain. Turning N, Hwy 13 climbed back into a winter wonderland. Reaching Hwy 789, flashing lights on a sign near the Wyoming border indicated that I-80 was closed 50 miles ahead. Through piles of slush, the G6 pressed on despite the warning, bucking a strong NW wind. Snowing only lightly here, but 27ºF and the wind was building drifts.

I-80 was open at the junction with Hwy 789. No problem getting onto it. Heading E, only one lane was partially clear. Crusty, half-frozen slush on the rest of it. SPHP tailed several vehicles going E at 35 to 40 mph. No traffic at all going W. A lighted sign soon explained. I-80 was closed at Sinclair, 16 miles ahead.

At Rawlins, Hwy 789/287 going N to Muddy Gap was closed, too. With no routes open to the N or E, Lupe was stuck. She really didn’t mind. Half a foot of snow, 28ºF, and a frigid wind meant one thing. About time for that cheapskate SPHP to break down and get the Carolina Dog a motel room. Ahh, yes! Pillows, blankets, and a big soft bed to stretch out on. Now we’re talking!

9-9-20, 8:55 AM, 27ºF, Hwy 73 E of Baroil, Wyoming – Why on earth they had closed Hwy 789/287 yesterday was beyond SPHP. A 10 or 12 mile long section of patches of snow and ice N of Rawlins, then the highway had been completely clear after that. Snow in the fields, but the road was smooth and dry.

Loop was out of the G6 for a quick sniff. Off to the NW stood an old friend, Whiskey Peak (9,225 ft.), decked out in white. The American Dingo had been up there once, in June, 2017. Fun to see it again.

**Whiskey Peak** from Hwy 73 E of Baroil. Photo looks NW.

**Whiskey Peak** with help from the telephoto lens.

The day warmed up. In the 40’sºF! Perhaps one last attempt to salvage something more from this Dingo Vacation? Maybe Lupe could climb Mile High Hill (5,280 ft.)? At MP 37.1 along Hwy 450 on the way to Newcastle, SPHP turned S on Lynch Road. Good gravel for a mile to a junction with Piney Creek Road where the old Darlington School stood vacant, its last students having abandoned it countless years ago.

A pickup truck on Piney Creek Road was coming this way. The driver turned out to be a friendly young guy who worked for the coal mine. He’d never heard of Mile High Hill, but his phone showed the region it was in as BLM land.

However, 6 inches of snow were melting up in the Rochelle Hills, and he pronounced the remote dirt and gravel roads leading into the area a quagmire impassable to the G6. His formerly white truck, covered in mud from wheels to roof, spoke eloquently in support of this assessment.

*Oh, we’ll be back someday! Just you wait and see!* Photo looks NW.

So that was it. The last gasp, the final straw. Smoke and blizzards! The Year of Perfect Vision had put a screeching halt to Lupe’s summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations. Might as well go home. (End 3:41 PM, 54ºF)

Point of Interest, Hwy 40, 4 miles W of Maybell, Colorado, 9-8-20

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To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

The wee hours, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains – Rain? Ugh! Not good. Sounded like light rain on the tiny house. Surprising, since the night sky had been almost completely clear when Loopster finally got back from Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.) yesterday evening, which couldn’t have been too many hours ago.

The exhausted American Dingo was still dead to the world, but SPHP was dimly awake. Too tired to even roll over, SPHP laid motionless for a long time, listening. Light rain, or just the wind? Hard to tell, but the tiny house was flapping intermittently in a gentle breeze. Always seemed to rain a little harder when the breeze picked up a bit, too.

At last summoning the energy to unzip the door, SPHP took a look. Hah! Overhead, a pale full moon still beamed down on the empty plain. The grass felt dry. Not raining at all. Good! Just the wind. Back to sleep.

Sometime later, Lupe woke SPHP wanting out. Alright! Unzipping the door again, SPHP let her go. A single woof. Something big bounding away. Silence. SPHP waited, but the Carolina Dog didn’t return.

The sky was brightening in the E when SPHP took another look. A few feet away, Lupe was curled up on the grass calmly watching the world come to life.

‘Bout time, sleepyhead!

You hungry, Loop? We better eat something before taking off.

8:07 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains – The American Dingo might have recovered from yesterday’s splendid adventures, but SPHP still felt lethargic. Breakfast had been a leisurely affair. Everything finally ready to go now, though. Better get with it! Daylight’s burning!

Which way, SPHP? Where are we headed?

See that big hill, Loop? That’s Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), our first objective.

**Froze to Death Mountain** (L of Center) from base camp at **Pass 10140**. Photo looks SW.

Oh, snap! Looks like another Saddleback Mountain! We can do that. C’mon, SPHP! Step lively!

With Froze to Death Mountain already in sight, Lupe set off up the slope behind the tiny house. The mountain promptly disappeared from view, but reappeared as soon as she got up to where the slope leveled out. A vast plain was ahead. No obstacles. With a much lighter pack today, SPHP actually was able to step along at a rather lively pace.

Crossing the plain, only 10 minutes from the tiny house. **Froze to Death Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SW.

After crossing the empty plain, the trek became a steady climb. Out on such open ground there really wasn’t any question on what route to take. Loopster simply headed pretty much straight for the mountain. For quite a long way, the terrain remained a featureless slope, but that gradually changed. Rivers of rock began to appear separated by lanes of vegetation. An hour from the tiny house, Lupe reached a big cairn.

*So far, so good!* **Froze to Death Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSW.

5 minutes past the cairn, a massive boulder sat off all by itself in a flat region. A grassier stretch was just ahead. Although still much higher, Froze to Death Mountain no longer looked all that far away.

*This is sort of like a one rock cairn!* **Froze to Death Mountain** (L), **HP11395** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Staying W of Froze to Death Mountain’s NE ridge, Lupe took advantage of the vegetation to avoid much rockier terrain as long as possible. She was soon beyond the flat area, climbing steadily again on the steepest slope yet. Toward the SSE, a small region of bright green grass betrayed the existence of seeping springs and waterholes. After getting a drink, Lupe noticed a depression to the W containing a big snowbank, but she didn’t bother with going over to check it out.

As the climb continued to steepen, SPHP insisted upon stopping now and then to suck in more air. These pauses provided opportunities to enjoy the ever-present views. Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) and Mount Hague (12,323 ft.) were particularly impressive.

*An oasis! Tasty! I was beginning to think there wasn’t any water at all up here.*

Looking back. **Pass 10140** (L of Center), **Saddleback Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Mount Hague** (L). **Mount Wood** and the big snowbank (Center). Photo looks NNW.

The steeper, rockier terrain couldn’t be avoided forever, but it wasn’t too terrible. Lupe often found relatively easy lanes higher. She was only 0.25 mile from the summit when she finally got up onto Froze to Death Mountain’s NE ridge. Reaching it at a fairly level spot, Loop now faced the toughest part of the entire climb. The summit was just ahead, only a few hundred feet higher.

Almost there! Final ascent dead ahead. Photo looks SW.

Easier than it appeared! Scattered patches of bare ground allowed SPHP to maintain some semblance of upward momentum. The climb ended with Lupe leading the way during a slow scramble on big talus, but the top wasn’t much farther by then.

11:00 AM, Froze to Death Mountain – A Carolina Dog stood surveying the situation from the single, massive boulder that was the obvious true summit of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.). What an awesome place! Not trivial by any means, but it hadn’t been hard to get here.

At the **true summit of Froze to Death Mountain**. **Saddleback Mountain** (between Lupe’s ears). Photo looks NE.

To the NE, both Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.), which Looper had visited yesterday, and Pass 10140, where she’d started out from this morning, were in sight looking much lower. Off to the NW was a grand view of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) and Mount Hague (12,323 ft.).

The true summit boulder Lupe stood on was, if not a comfortable perch, at least plenty large enough to inspire confidence. Not a scary spot. It sat along the N lip of a fairly roomy summit region, which slanted lower toward the SE.

Although spacious, Froze to Death Mountain was not an easy summit to move around on. Large talus covered practically the entire area. The only place where Lupe might be able to rest on anything other than solid rock was a low spot 40 feet S of the true summit where a flat patch of dirt was sheltered by walls of talus 10 to 20 feet higher to the N and W. Potentially a good spot to pitch a tiny house for an overnight stay!

Off to the SSW was a fabulous view of Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) and a pale milky-green tarn near it. Nothing could be seen of Turgulse Lake hidden in the deep canyon between here and there. However, part of Froze to Death Lake was visible to the SE. Leaving the summit boulder, Lupe scrambled over the talus to get closer to that edge for a better look.

Sparkling in the sunlight, Froze to Death Lake was a deep sea green color. Miles beyond it, SPHP was fairly certain that a big flat-topped peak in the distance was Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.).

**Froze to Death Lake** (Center). **Castle Mountain** (Center) on the horizon.

**Froze to Death Lake**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

A mile to the WSW, Lupe’s next objective was in sight for the first time. From here, the Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) region looked like a couple of hills at about the same elevation. The Carolina Dog’s hoped for ultimate destination was also visible 1.5 miles farther S. A long, barren slope leading up to Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) inspired confidence. Loopster could do that! Just a matter of getting over there.

The upper regions of a far more problematic, no, make that impossible, peak poked up from beyond that same slope – Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), Montana’s state high point. A serious technical climb, Granite Peak wasn’t even a possibility for Lupe, but a terrific closeup view of it from Tempest Mountain was certainly something to look forward to.

**Tempest Mountain** (L of Center), **Granite Peak** (Center), and **Froze to Death Plateau** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Tempest Mountain** (L) and **Granite Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Thinking a rest break or a bite to eat might be in order, SPHP led Lupe down to the flat spot. Certainly protected from the wind here, although lacking the views available higher up. With the wind only 10 mph out of the W, shelter was of minimal value at the moment.

Looper sniffed around a minute or two.

So, what are we doing down here, SPHP? Not much to see.

Thought you might be hungry, or want to cool your jets for a while, Loop. Been a bit of a march.

That’s kind of you, SPHP, but I’m fine.

You don’t need a break?

Still a long way to Tempest Mountain, SPHP. Did you see how rocky it all looks? Maybe we ought to keep going? If you’re up to it, that is. We can rest later.

Oh, OK. I’m good. Onward, then! Puppy, ho!

It was true. SPHP had hoped that the relatively level trek between here and Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) would be a super simple grassy stroll, but an awful lot of rock and not a whole lot of vegetation was in sight. Although Loopster’s remaining objectives weren’t that far away, and the terrain didn’t appear to present any serious obstacles, might be very slow going. Dilly-dallying here was perhaps inadvisable.

Scrambling back up close to the summit, the Carolina Dog found a route through the boulders where it was possible to start down Froze to Death Mountain’s W slope.

*Would love to stay longer, but maybe we better keep going!* **Froze to Death Plateau** (Center). **Granite Peak** (L). Photo looks WSW.

The W slope was a jumble of large talus, steeper and more treacherous than the route Lupe had taken up from the NE. Loop managed it all just fine, but found herself constantly waiting. Only a little more than 100 feet had to be lost, but SPHP’s cautious descent seemed to take forever.

*Might as well enjoy the view as we wait for slowpoke!* **Mount Hague** (L) and **Mount Wood** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Getting down to where not much of a slope remained provided little relief. Talus everywhere! Farther W was another minor ridge of the stuff. Eventually boulder hopping around the N side, the view ahead was still discouraging. Rocks, rocks, and more rocks!

*Hoo-boy! This rock garden is in full bloom!* **Froze to Death Plateau** (Center), **Granite Peak** (L). Photo looks WSW.

Nothing to be done about it. Lupe bounded about as she pleased while SPHP spent a lot of time staring at the ground, concentrating on each step ahead. Every now and then a little patch of dirt or grass permitted a micro-burst forward.

*Keep coming, SPHP! Looks easier over by those hills.* **Tempest Mountain** (L), **Granite Peak** (L of Center), **Froze to Death Plateau** (R). Photo looks SW.

Staying well S of the highest ground, Lupe eventually got to the end of the talus field. Only some scree now, and a bit of vegetation. Suddenly, SPHP could make some tracks. Loop quickly reached a snowbank on the E side of the closest hill she’d been heading for. While she drank from tiny meltwater streams flowing from the snowbank, SPHP filled up the water bottles. A ton of sediment in this water, but oh, well!

This first hill at the E end of the Froze to Death Plateau summit region was all light-colored stone. No point in climbing it, since a darker hill just beyond it was clearly at least somewhat higher. Trying to take the most direct route, SPHP angled up along the S side of this first hill, which only served to put Loop back into talus. Would have been better to stay lower longer before starting up to the saddle between the two hills.

Once out of the talus, Lupe soon made it up onto the E rim of the dark hill. The top of this hill was a good-sized region as flat as a field of stones could be. Impossible to pick out a true summit rock from all the others very nearly the same elevation, so Lupe perched on a likely candidate. For the second time today, SPHP shook the American Dingo’s paw and congratulated her on a successful ascent.

Looking back from the E edge of the dark hill. **Saddleback Mountain** (L), the **lighter colored hill** (Center), **Froze to Death Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the Dingo-designated **true summit** of **Froze to Death Plateau**. Photo looks WNW.

Remaining at the true summit of Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) for only a moment or two, Lupe continued on. Nothing but rock here, and essentially these same views would be available all along the plodding march ahead. Heading WSW, it took only a couple of minutes to get to where Loop could start down a gradual slope leading to the next part of the plateau. The rock turned from dark to light-colored again in the middle of the coming dip.

Leaving the true summit region of the **Froze to Death Plateau** on the way to the next high point (R). **Tempest Mountain** (L). **Granite Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Zoomed in on **Tempest Mountain** (L) and **Granite Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

From Center to R: **Castle Mountain**, **Castle Rock Spire**, **Rainbow Peak**, **Castle Rock Mountain**, and **Salo Mountain**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.)**. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Checking the topo map, this next section of the Froze to Death Plateau ought to be the last of three high points in the region. This was actually where the true summit was supposed to be, but it looked slightly lower than the dark hill where Lupe had just been. Crossing the minor saddle leading to it, Looper only had to regain a small amount of elevation to arrive at a similar rocky plain, except that this one was much larger.

Looking back from the region shown as the true summit of the Froze to Death Plateau on the topo map **(HP11792)**. The **middle dark hill** (L of Center, beyond Lupe), and **light-colored hill** (just to the L of it). Photo looks ENE.

The middle dark hill Lupe had just left still looked like the true summit to SPHP, but who knew? Maybe it was an illusion? Certainly no obvious absolute high point on this part of the plateau, so Lupe simply continued across it, passing from the light-colored rocks of the E end to another band of dark-colored rocks toward the W.

At the W end of this final high point of the Froze to Death Plateau region, Lupe came to a long slope leading down to the saddle between here and Tempest Mountain. Naturally, nothing but rock every inch of the way.

Looking down on the saddle W of the Froze to Death Plateau region leading to **Tempest Mountain** (L). **Granite Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

After a gradual elevation loss of close to 150 feet, Lupe reached the low point of this last saddle near Sundial Rock. She was still 1.5 miles N of Tempest Mountain, but the terrain immediately ahead didn’t look nearly as rocky as it had been on the great majority of the long trek to this point from Froze to Death Mountain.

**Tempest Mountain** (L of Center) from **Sundial Rock**. Photo looks SSW.

Just SW of Sundial Rock, Loop came to a couple of semi-circular rock walls. Only 2 to 3 feet high, the semi-circles were open toward the NE. The ground within was hard-packed mostly sandy soil, apparently what remained after the rocks had been moved to construct the walls.

What do you suppose these forts are for, SPHP?

Not sure, Loop, but probably meant as windbreaks or camping spots for people coming to climb Granite Peak (12,799 ft.).

At the first of two forts SW of Sundial Rock. Photo looks SW.

No one was around to ask, so Lupe kept going. Once across the saddle, the terrain began to slope upward again, gradually at first, but slowly getting steeper. Loop continued SW for a while, before starting to angle more to the S. The landscape eventually became mighty rocky again.

After going quite some distance, a 100 foot high talus ridge was directly ahead. Upon reaching the top of it, the slope only continued higher, but at an easier pace. A few cairns appeared along in here, and occasionally stretches of a crude use trail were found between them.

The entire region leading to Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.), now only 0.5 mile away, was now in sight. SPHP glanced up from the endless rock hopping to see a brown and white speck streaking S. Lupe! Without warning, she’d taken off like a shot.

Oh! That explains it. Mountain goats! 4 of them. Seeing an American Dingo racing toward them, the mountain goats stood staring in wonder at first, before scattering as Looper rapidly closed the gap.

Mountain goats, SPHP! Did you see them?

Yes, I did, but not soon enough to stop you from taking off like that. Sort of a no-no, you know? How did you know they were even there?

Oh, you can sniff them a mile away!

No, actually I can’t, although apparently you can. You must have run at least 0.25 mile up there. Could barely see you or the goats. Wish I had that kind of speed, energy, and agility. We’d climb 20 mountains a day! Before lunch!

You do tend to take your sweet time, SPHP!

As SPHP trudged along, Lupe covered the same ground for the 3rd time in the past few minutes. Up close to where the mountain goats had been were more semi-circular rock forts. These forts were taller than the ones near Sundial Rock. A bunch of gear was stashed at one of them.

*Someone must be out climbing **Granite Peak** (L) right this very minute!* Photo looks WSW.

These forts weren’t far from the W edge of the enormous ridge leading to Tempest Mountain. Continuing only a short distance SW toward what appeared to be a pass along that edge, Lupe discovered a huge cairn with a couple of big gleaming white chunks of quartz on top.

This cairn marked the start of the route real mountain climbers take down to the col leading to Granite Peak. The E face of Granite Peak looked so fearsome, and the route so narrow and dizzying, that SPHP was thrilled Lupe had no intention of making an attempt. Terrifying was the word that came to mind while regarding Granite Peak.

*For all you real mountain climbers out there, this is where the fun starts!* Photo looks SW.

Still 300 or 400 feet to go! A long rocky slope was all that was left to get to the top of Tempest Mountain. Moderately steep, but not tricky at all. No worse than the terrain the Carolina Dog had already spent most of the day on. A huge white boulder could be seen way up at the top.

Following various use trails, or wandering willy-nilly, Lupe headed up.

*Here we go!* Starting up **Tempest Mountain**. Photo looks S.

About halfway up, SPHP noticed two people by the light-colored boulder at the top. They hung around there a few minutes, then started down. Turned out to be a man and a woman young enough to be his daughter. The young woman said nothing as she passed by, but the man stopped briefly to chat.

He said they were going to camp at the rock windbreaks tonight before climbing Granite Peak tomorrow. He claimed the mountain goats were just about tame. They hang around waiting for someone to piss on a rock, then lick it for the salt. After relaying that interesting tidbit, he waved cheerily and continued his descent.

Guess we can be glad we’re not mountain goats, Looper! How disgusting! Poor mountain goats!

For sure, SPHP! Say, you don’t happen to have any Fritos in the pack do you?

Naw, they’re all back at the trailhead in the G6.

Well, shoot! There goes that idea. What kind of a porter are you anyway? You’re supposed to be prepared for all sorts of eventualities. The Fritos don’t do us any good in the G6!

I can only lug so much on your behalf, lazy Dingo. What idea are you talking about?

If you’d only thought to bring some Fritos, I could take them to those mountain goats. I bet that if they saw me bringing them a big bag of Fritos they wouldn’t run off! We’d be best friends!

That’s quite the plot! I suspect you’re right, though. It would probably work. Maybe next time? I’ll have to think about it. Mountain goats are awesome, but I’m not entirely certain I want a herd of panhandling goats following us all over the mountain demanding more Fritos.

5:06 PM, Tempest Mountain – Approaching the light-colored boulder that had been visible all the way up, it looked so big that SPHP wondered if Loop could get up onto it, even if SPHP gave her a boost? Before making an attempt, the American Dingo paused for a look at that forbidding N face of Granite Peak.

Halfway up the mountain, sheets of ice clung to tremendous cliffs far below a wickedly jagged ridgeline. Below the ice, long piles of talus and scree dropped precipitously hundreds of feet farther into the maw of an enormous canyon. Peering cautiously over the edge, the skinny ridge mountaineers had to traverse to get over to Granite Peak was visible.

Looks like a death wish to me! What do you think, Loop?

Quite a few people climb Granite Peak, don’t they, SPHP? Just have to know what you’re doing.

Oh, but we do! That’s why we’re over here. C’mon lets see what we can do about getting you up onto that boulder. It’s sitting awfully close to the edge, so it ought to be plenty scary enough for Dingo work.

Approaching the light-colored boulder. Photo looks SE.

**Granite Peak** from **Tempest Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Gazing down on the **col leading to Granite Peak**. Photo looks WSW.

Circling around the E side of the light-colored boulder, Lupe’s prospects for getting up on top were looking rather bleak. Perched up on other rocks, the boulder’s sides were vertical, and no stones that might have provided helpful assists rested against it.

*Hmm. This last step is a doozy!* Photo looks SSW.

The problem was instantly solved, however, when Loop got around to the S side of the boulder. No need to get up on this monstrous rock at all! Not the true summit! 40 or 50 feet away, along the brink of a gaping chasm to the W, was a much smaller pointy rock that appeared to be at least a foot or two higher.

The pointy rock wasn’t big enough to stand on, but Loopster had no problem getting to it, and touching the top with her paw. A small cairn nearby confirmed the notion that this actually was the true summit of Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.). After congratulating Lupe on her 3rd and final successful ascent of the day, SPHP took several commemorative photos as the proud American Dingo posed near the pointy rock.

On **Tempest Mountain**. The **true summit** is the pointy rock just behind Loop. The massive light-colored boulder which had been problematic is at far R. Photo looks NW.

**Granite Peak** (L) from the top of **Tempest Mountain**. Photo looks W.

**Mount Hague** (Center) and **Mount Wood** (R) with the light-colored boulder between them. Photo looks NNW.

Compared to Granite Peak, Tempest Mountain was as tame as a kitten, but the views were still stupendous! A mile SE, Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) overlooked an enormous canyon containing a rock glacier. Far beyond Mount Peal, Bowback Mountain (12,351 ft.), Whitetail Peak (12,551 ft.), and the Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) group were all in sight.

**Mount Peal** (L) in the foreground. **Bowback Mountain** (far L), **Whitetail Peak** (pointy, straight up from Lupe’s back), and **Castle Mountain** (straight up from her rump) all on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Another look. **Mount Peal** (L of Center) in the foreground.

Venturing S of the true summit, Lupe had a fabulous view of the cliffy N face of Cairn Mountain (12,200 ft.). Peering down Tempest Mountain’s S face, parts of both Granite Lake and Lowary Lake were visible.

**Cairn Mountain** (foreground). Photo looks SSW.

**Granite Lake** (Center) and **Lowary Lake** (R). Photo looks S.

Back to the N and NW were the now familiar, but more distant views of Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) from a new perspective.

**Tempest summit** (Center). **Twin Peaks** (far L) and **Mount Hague** (L). Photo looks N.

**Twin Peaks** (L of Center), **Mount Hague** (R of Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks NNW.

And, of course, to the WSW was that frightening, awe-inspiring view of Montana’s true summit, Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), now backlit by the sinking sun.

**Granite Peak** (R). **Mount Villard (12,345 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks SW.

5:58 PM, Tempest Mountain – A precious, glorious hour had flown by, the last few minutes now slipping away. Loopster stood near the pointy true summit of Tempest Mountain for the last time. No way to get back to the tiny house until hours after dark now, but no regrets. Totally worth it. What a splendid day in the Beartooths it had been!

Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks S.

Simply fabulous! But this is about it, Loop.

Onward, Puppy ho! time, SPHP?

Yep. You know it.

Working her way N past the light-colored boulder, a grand view of the long, rock-strewn march Lupe had made to get here was on display. The whole trek from Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.) to the several high points of the Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) was in sight. Even Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.), where Loop had been about this time yesterday evening, was in view.

**Froze to Death Plateau** (L of Center), **Froze to Death Mountain** (R), and **Saddleback Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NE.

Leaving **Tempest Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

A need for speed! Better get as far as possible before the light is gone. During the descent, staying close to the W edge of Tempest Mountain, Lupe was soon rewarded with a view of Avalanche Lake.

**Avalanche Lake** (Center) with **Twin Peaks** beyond it. **Mount Hague** (R) and **Mount Wood** (far R). Photo looks NW.

A few people were at the semi-circular rock shelters down by the route to Granite Peak when Lupe went by again. So were the same 4 tame mountain goats, no doubt anxiously waiting for someone, anyone, to take a piss. Lupe was beside herself whining with disappointment when SPHP wouldn’t let her race over to say hello, and wishing SPHP had had enough brains to bring the Fritos.

Bring a bag of Fritos or potato chips, and they’ll be your friends forever!

Ugh! It was a long march. SPHP’s paws were getting sore. A wonder that Lupe’s weren’t, too, with all this rock, but it never seems to bother her. The last of the evening alpenglow was about gone by the time the Carolina Dog made it back to the pass near Sundial Rock W of the Froze to Death Plateau.

No way! Not going to try to do all that again in the dark! SPHP left Lupe’s earlier route, leading the Carolina Dog N over a wide, shallow pass, picking up a use trail on the way. On the far side of the pass was a barren slope. Rocky, but nowhere near as troublesome as the Froze to Death Plateau was. Down, down Lupe went as the remaining light faded, occasional large cairns helping to keep her on track.

This morning, a broad band of vegetation had been visible down here N of the upper Froze to Death Plateau region while Lupe had been on the way to Froze to Death Mountain. Yet even though harboring suspicions that there was likely easier terrain and quite a good use trail, SPHP was afraid to lose too much elevation. Without having explored the region earlier in the day, if there wasn’t a decent trail, it would be too easy to get lost in the dark close to frightful cliffs to the N.

Even so, Lupe lost a lot of elevation before turning E.

Before the light was completely gone, the American Dingo made it past a large snowfield. Where she roamed after that is impossible to say. E! The rugged terrain gradually forced her lower and lower, but the black as midnight mountainside was vast, never-ending.

There were places where progress was good, patches of thick, tufty grass. Lupe crossed ravines containing little streams, and scrambled through deep gullies full of talus, while SPHP crept cautiously along wielding the little flashlight, trying to figure out which rock could be safely reached next. Mostly, though, there was just rock, rock stretching into an invisible infinity.

Traversing the endless slope, Lupe got around some kind of a ridge, then another one. Finally the dark outline of the long slope leading up to Froze to Death Mountain could be seen against the starlight. Still a long march to get there. How far was impossible to tell. Looper was getting tired, or maybe her paws did hurt now? Pawing frequently at SPHP, she whined, begging for mercy. Stop! Stop!

Sometimes SPHP did stop. 5 or 10 minutes spent sitting together, bathed in moonlight, listening to the cool breeze whisper tales of loneliness and danger among forlorn eternal mountain heights. SPHP stroked Lupe’s fur, reassuring her. Somewhere there was an end. In a field of grass, a tiny house was waiting.

For a long time, a glowing red gumdrop was visible hundreds of feet lower. Another tiny house! A cheery outpost amid the gloom. Gradually it was left behind, far to the NW.

Finally, a climb up onto the slope that went to Froze to Death Mountain. Lupe turned N, heading down. Rivers of rock, few routes between them, steep drops. It hadn’t been this way this morning, had it? Was Loop too far E or W? SPHP couldn’t tell. Back and forth, wandering blindly, searching for the way.

After an eternity, the rocks ended. How high had Lupe been all this time? How could it have been this far? Didn’t matter now. Joyfully across a barren level plain, then down the final grassy slope.

The American Dingo spotted the tiny house first. Respite! Relief! Too tired to eat, Lupe curled up on her soft sleeping bag. SPHP pulled part of it over her. Warmth and comfort! At peace, Lupe sighed, closed her sweet eyes, and dreamed, still wandering the rocky heights of the Froze to Death Plateau. (9-5-20, 12:46 AM)

**Froze to Death Plateau** (L) and **Froze to Death Mountain** (R) as seen on the way back from Tempest Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana, 9-4-20

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Granite Peak trip report by Greg Slayden (8-26-91)

Granite Peak trip report by Dave Covill (August 3 to 6, 2002)

Mystic Lake & Saddleback Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-3-20)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-2-20, early afternoon, Gillette, Wyoming –

Well, phooey! This has been a complete waste of time. C’mon, Loop, let’s get out of here!

Disappointing, but on to bigger and better things, SPHP!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!

SPHP turned onto I-90, and the Carolina Dog was soon racing W again in the air-conditioned comfort of the G6, putting behind her more than 2 hours of futile searching for the owners of Antelope Butte (5,073 ft.). Antelope Butte wasn’t much as far as mountains go, just a little hill. Lupe could have climbed it in nothing flat.

Antelope Butte did have one claim to fame. It was one of only 19 high points in the mountainous state of Wyoming with more than 25 miles of isolation, meaning no other higher ground within a 25 mile radius.

SPHP had actually found 2 of the 4 owners of Antelope Butte, who were all members of the same family. Result? Permission unequivocally denied!

Privately owned **Antelope Butte** several miles S of Gillette, WY as seen from Hwy 59. Photo looks W.

Nothing was going to break the happy mood for long. On to bigger and better things! Lupe’s 4th Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2020 was just getting underway. The G6 hummed NW for hours. It wasn’t until the American Dingo reached Billings, MT that there was any sign of trouble.

Uh-oh! Smoke! Not again! Wyoming had been all sunny and blue. W of Billings, the smoke thickened. Lupe had come such a long way already that she might as well keep going and see what tomorrow would bring. At Columbus, SPHP left I-90, heading S on Hwy 78. S of Absarokee, a R turn on Hwy 419 to Fishtail, then following signs the rest of the way. By dusk, Loopster was at the trailhead.

9-3-20, 7:34 AM, West Rosebud trailhead – As usual first night out on a Dingo Vacation, Lupe had hardly slept a wink. Excited by the prospect of hitting the trail, she’d spent most of the night gazing out the window, watching for any sign of movement. A full moon had risen, illuminating the enormous canyon carved by West Rosebud creek.

Happily, the sky was looking much better this morning. Only a hint of smoke. Lucky! The great moment had arrived. Lupe was on her way.

Signage by the start of West Rosebud trail No. 19.

A short climb and West Rosebud trail No. 19 leveled out. This trail went up the West Rosebud creek canyon, the first major destination being Mystic Lake 3 miles from the trailhead. Lupe was up early enough to have the trail to herself at the moment. She trotted along looking for squirrels, but hearing only the hum of a hydro-electric power plant down in the valley.

Off to a reasonably early start on West Rosebud trail No. 19.

15 minutes from the trailhead, Lupe came to a curved bridge that went over a big white water pipe and a railroad track for a tram. Both started 1,000 feet higher at a surge tank way up on a steep mountainside, and swooped straight down to the hydro-electric plant in the valley. A couple of plaques told the story of this engineering marvel.

Looking up the water pipeline and tram track toward the surge tank. Photo looks W.

The hydro-electric powerhouse waiting below. Photo looks E.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe went on. The West Rosebud trail is very popular, so it was well-worn and a cinch to follow. 15 minutes beyond the curved bridge, the trail reached West Rosebud creek. Scrambling down a short steep bank, Lupe checked it out. The creek had good flow. Crystal clear water tumbled among huge, smoothed boulders in a series of small waterfalls, and gathered in deep pools.

Later in the day, this would be a fabulous spot for a picnic, or even a swim, but it was still very early, so the Carolina Dog kept going.

Heading up the **West Rosebud Creek canyon** after crossing the curved bridge.

The trail followed the gorgeous creek for only a little way before leading to another bridge. This bridge crossed West Rosebud creek. The trail then headed back into the forest. 5 minutes, and Lupe came to a sign for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Crossing the bridge over West Rosebud creek.

Entering the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Beyond the sign, the West Rosebud trail was still flat for a little while, but it soon started to climb. Lupe had already gained some elevation, but now the trail became a much more relentless upward trek. Still easy to only moderately steep. Looper continued to make good progress, but every now and then, SPHP paused for breath.

The trail was going SW toward a huge headwall at the upper end of the canyon. As Lupe got closer, the trail began switchbacking higher. The route became much rockier as the trail climbed above the forest. Views improved, and progress could now be measured relative to the big white water pipeline stretching almost horizontally along the opposite canyon wall.

Here on the SE side of the canyon, tremendous rock spires towered way up along the upper edge.

Glancing back at the big white water pipeline (L) on the opposite side of the canyon. Photo looks NNE.

Spires along the upper SE side of the West Rosebud creek canyon.

The **headwall** (Center) the trail was working toward. Photo looks SW.

The trail and the big white water pipe were both heading for Mystic Lake, but from opposite sides of the canyon. It wasn’t until Lupe was clearly somewhat higher than the water pipe that she started getting close to the headwall Mystic Lake was hidden beyond.

After passing next to several vertical rock walls, the West Rosebud trail finally curved W directly toward the headwall. However, it didn’t go far in this direction before bending back to the SW where it entered a small valley. Climbing gradually through this relatively narrow gap, the trail eventually leveled out.

At the far end of the valley, where the gap was narrowest, a strong, cool breeze blew this way as Lupe approached two large boulders the trail went between. As the American Dingo reached the boulders, she got her first look at Mystic Lake.

Making progress, clearly somewhat above the water pipeline now. Photo looks NNE.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from between the boulders. Photo looks SW.

Set in a huge valley surrounded by forests and massive mountains, the deep blue waters of Mystic Lake made a stunning impression! Facing into the stiff, cool breeze coming off the lake, Lupe looked 120 feet down on a curved dam at the E end. Whitecaps could be seen in the middle of Mystic Lake, its far W end beyond vision. Magnificent!

From here, West Rosebud trail No. 19 curved sharply to the R as it began snaking almost all the way down to lake level. The trail reached Mystic Lake slightly above the rocky S shore, where it then headed W toward a pebbly beach.

**Mystic Lake** from the gap. Photo looks SW.

Starting down the switchbacks leading to the lake. Photo looks N.

By the S shore, very close to the E end. Photo looks W.

After getting past the initial rocky part of the shoreline, Lupe left the trail to venture out onto the pebbly beach. The American Dingo was the first one here this morning and had the whole place to herself, which was pretty cool. From here she could look back and see the trail winding up to the gap she had come through on top of a wall of rock at the E end of the lake.

On the pebbly beach. The gap Lupe had come through to get here is visible as the notch (slightly to the L of Lupe) on top of the rock wall beyond her. Photo looks NE.

Taking a stroll W along the shore, Lupe explored more of Mystic Lake. She didn’t go too far, just to where the shoreline curved toward the S where more of the main body of the lake was in view. At a weathered log, SPHP sat down for a bit to have some fried chicken while watching the waves roll in, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t hungry yet. Instead, she dashed off into the forest when a squirrel chattered nearby.

About as far as Loop went along the shoreline.

Looking NE back toward the dam from SPHP’s fried chicken feast log.

A pleasant half hour was spent along the shore of Mystic Lake, but that was about all SPHP thought Loop could spare. She’d gained a little over 1,000 feet of elevation getting here, but still had another 2,500 feet to go just to get to base camp. Carrying a heavy pack, SPHP was concerned about how difficult that might prove to be.

Somewhat reluctant to desert such a wonderful place so soon, Lupe left fabulous Mystic Lake heading S through the forest looking for the trail, which was some distance from the shore. She quickly ran across it, though, and turning R (SW), continued on her journey.

After 200 or 300 yards, a small clearing appeared ahead. At the same time, Loop reached a junction with a side trail on the L (S). A sign said “Phantom Creek Trail No. 17”. Without going all the way to the clearing, Lupe turned S, following No. 17 as it wound deeper into the forest.

At the start of Phantom Creek Trail No. 17.

Phantom Creek trail No. 17 wasn’t as wide as the West Rosebud trail had been, but at least it started out in good shape. A huge climb was ahead to get to where Lupe was going, and No. 17 soon began steadily gaining elevation. Switchbacks appeared. Great news! They really helped make life easier on the increasingly steep slope Loop was climbing.

15 minutes after setting out on Phantom Creek trail No. 17, Lupe reached the only significant water she would come to. A small rushing stream crossed the trail twice in rapid succession, and was never seen again. After that, any water encountered was a mere trickle, scarcely enough for Loop to get a drink.

Lupe gained several hundred feet of elevation before getting her first view of Mystic Lake from Trail No. 17 at a small break in the forest. She could see all the way to the W end of the lake from here.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

5 minutes later, a couple of partridges, or ptarmigans (?), were on the trail. They hung around just long enough for a photo before flying off.

The switchbacks went on and on. Most were moderately long. Although the trail was never steep, the heavy pack forced SPHP to keep pausing to gasp for breath. Views kept improving. Absolutely spectacular country!

*Wowee! This is quite the trail, isn’t it?* Photo looks S.

Lupe gained many hundreds of feet of elevation on the same enormous slope. After what seemed like a long trek, the switchbacks finally started getting shorter. Higher up the slope, it kept looking like Loop was about to come to a top, but she never did. Instead, after going around a bend, the trail suddenly straightened and headed E.

By now the forest had thinned considerably. Ahead was an encouraging sign. A bare hilltop! Apparently there actually was a limit to how much higher Looper was going to have to go.

On the straightaway. Getting up there, but still a way to go. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 17 crossed a steep drainage, then turned N. More switchbacks! Lupe kept going, zig-zagging higher. The trail finally went clear around to the N side of the mountain before starting to turn E again. By now, the views of Mystic Lake more than 2,000 feet lower were amazing! Part of Island Lake was visible beyond the W end. N of both lakes stood Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and beyond it Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.).

*If you don’t like this, you just don’t like mountains!* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** straight past the end of Mystic Lake. **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

As the trail continued curving E, Lupe came to sort of a little pass. This area was all stunted pine forest, except for a small hill just N of the trail. The W end of this hill was all gravelly. Not much of a climb to get up there. Since this hill might be a last chance to look back at Mystic Lake, Loop ventured up.

Only the W half of Mystic Lake was in sight, but Loopster could see even more of Island Lake than she had been able to before. The amazing, and somewhat horrifying view, though, was of the massive ridge to the S, the same ridge Lupe was trying to get up onto. Oh, my gosh! The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go!

**Mystic Lake** and **Island Lake** from the W end of the gravelly hill. **Twin Peaks** (R). Photo looks W.

*Still a bit of a trek to get up to that ridge isn’t it?* Photo looks SW.

E of the gravelly hill, the forest gave out. Turned out that the gravelly hill had not actually been the last spot to get a good look at Mystic Lake. In fact, the primo viewpoint was an even higher grassy area way up here near the edge of a cliff. Except for a little piece at the far E end near the dam, Lupe could see almost the entire lake. Across the enormous West Rosebud Creek canyon, the top of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) was now in sight, too!

*Even better! Don’t ya, think?* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** (R of Center), **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

*Top of **Mount Wood** behind me!* **Twin Peaks** (far L), **Mount Hague** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The trail kept climbing, winding its way E. Turned out Lupe didn’t have to gain as much elevation as it had seemed back at the gravelly hill. She was heading for a significantly lower part of that same massive ridge, Pass 10140, an enormous saddle that Phantom Creek trail No. 17 went over on its way to another giant canyon where Phantom Creek was.

Shortly after rounding a corner, an unmarked trail junction appeared. A side trail headed SW up a ravine here, no doubt a shortcut to Montana’s state high point, unseen Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), which was still miles away and a technical climb.

The shortcut to Granite Peak is on the R around the next bend. Photo looks SE.

*Going to **Granite Peak**? SPHP thinks you should go R here. I’m going L!* Photo looks SW.

Skipping the shortcut, Lupe continued E on Phantom Creek trail No. 17. The rate of climb was diminishing. Only 0.5 mile now to Pass 10140!

9-3-20, 2:03 PM, Pass 10140 – Suddenly Lupe was there, crossing a vast, sparsely vegetated plain. Two cowboys riding horses were coming this way. Lupe let them go by before heading over to a cairn halfway across the pass. Not the absolute high point, but close enough.

**Twin Peaks** (L), **Mount Hague** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R) from **Pass 10140**. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Ho, ho! Loopster, we’re here! Can’t believe it! Been dreading that climb with this dang heavy pack, yet here we are. And so early, too!

We’re here? You mean this is it? We aren’t staying here, are we, SPHP?

Yes, we are! This pass is gonna be base camp. Isn’t it fabulous?

Glad you’re excited, SPHP, but I’m detecting a serious squirrel deficiency.

Squirrels, schmirrels! Sniff around some. You might find something even better than squirrels.

Better than squirrels! Like what?

Oh, I don’t know. Something more exotic, like marmots or mountain goats or grizzly bears. Anyway, I’m pooped. C’mon, let’s go find a spot to pitch your tiny house.

Several hundred feet SW of the trail was a gentle, grassy slope. Not as rocky as the rest of Pass 10140. Looper was soon resting comfortably next to her tiny house with a view of Mount Wood and Mount Hague in the distance.

Base camp at **Pass 10140**. **Mount Hague** (Center). **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks NW.

9-3-20, 4:13 PM, Pass 10140 – Lunch, and 2 hours of rest and relaxation had done wonders. The American Dingo was starting to get restless. Even SPHP felt revived. Nothing planned, but hours of daylight left.

So what now, SPHP? Do you think you’re up to it? Looks easy.

Heh. Yeah, it does. Tempting, but we probably shouldn’t, Looper. Might regret it tomorrow. Another big day coming.

Oh, c’mon! It’s not that far away! Why don’t we give it a go? Can always turn back, if it isn’t panning out. We’re here with time on our paws. If not now, when? I’ll give you a hint. Never! That’s when.

True enough. Well, let me check the topo map.

To the ENE, on the far side of Phantom Creek trail No. 17, was another big chunk of the massive ridge that Pass 10140 was part of. A big conical high point was visible over there, and the terrain leading to it did look pretty easy from here.

The topo map revealed that the cone was likely the site of the “Mystic” survey benchmark, and the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.). Loop might also be able to tag Prairieview Mountain (10,575 ft.) along the way. Not that much additional elevation gain on the day, and two 10,000 footers for the price of one! Still, round trip, it would be a good 5 miles, at least. Hmm.

Alrighty, then! Guess we did come here to climb mountains, didn’t we? Onward! Puppy, ho!

That’s the spirit, SPHP!

**Prairieview Mountain** (small knobs R of Center) and **Saddleback Mountain** (R) from **Pass 10140** base camp. Photo looks ENE.

Heading NE, Lupe crossed Phantom Creek trail No. 17, and started up a long, barren slope. Cake! A few rocks, nothing major. Fun trek. Rapid progress. Why had SPHP even hesitated? This was pure brilliance!

Approaching knobby **Prairieview Mountain**. **Saddleback Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The terrain got rockier. Progress slowed as Loopster scrambled past a minor talus ridge, avoiding the worst of it. Another plain beyond the talus. Scattered bushes and rocks. Still not bad. Prairieview Mountain, an elevated line of rock outcroppings bisecting the enormous ridge, was now just ahead.

Glancing back. **Froze to Death Mountain** (L). **Pass 10140** (R). Photo looks SW.

Most of Prairieview Mountain was a gently rounded ridgeline running N/S dotted with scattered bushes and boulders. However, a number of widely separated rock formations 30 to 50 feet high were strung out along the length of this ridge. These rock formations were similar to each other in that they all consisted of big mounds of large talus.

Coming up near the middle of the ridge, or maybe a bit toward the S, it was clear that the summit had to be farther N. Skipping the closest rock formation, Lupe headed for the next one.

Near the top of **Prairieview Mountain** looking for the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the next rock formation to the N, the ground became a sea of massive boulders half sunk into the mountain. Between the boulders grew a profusion of bushes that served to hide how deep the holes they occupied were. Sometimes only a few inches, other times several feet. Where possible, boulder hopping was by far the easiest mode of travel.

Climbing from the S, Loopster got near the top of this rock formation, but the stones at the very top were so massive, there was no way the Carolina Dog could get up there. Retreating, she circled around to the W hoping to find a better route. None! The W and N sides were worse.

Lupe almost made it to the top of this rock formation, but couldn’t scale the highest boulder. Photo looks N.

*Not happening, SPHP!* Same rock formation, opposite side. Photo looks S.

Hah! Didn’t matter. An even higher rock formation was now in sight a little farther N. Close to the far N end of the whole mountain, the true summit had to be over there.

Next rock formation to the N (Center). Photo looks N.

Another boulder hop over to this next jumble of talus, and Lupe once again started up the S side. Too steep! Swinging around to the W, the American Dingo managed to keep gaining elevation, but still couldn’t make it to the top. Every time it seemed like she was getting close, even higher rocks kept appearing a little farther N.

How much farther, SPHP? Can you tell?

Not really. 15 feet, 20, 30? Not at all sure the true summit is even in sight yet, Loop. Can’t be that much higher. At the moment we’re kind of stuck here, though. Practically straight up. We’re going to have to keep working our way around somehow.

Well, how bad do we really want to do this? Isn’t Saddleback Mountain more impressive? Maybe it’s easier than this one?

You might be right! Scrambling around on all this talus is just chewing up a ton of time. We’re gonna break our fool necks, too, if we’re not careful. You got pretty close to the top of Prairieview. Wanna call it, and go on to Saddleback?

Sure! Why waste daylight here, when the glittering prize is over there?

Sort of a shame. Lupe had gotten so close to the top of Prairieview! With enough patience and persistence, she probably could of done it. Oh, well! Life in the mountains. Not always one roaring success after another. A careful descent, and it was on to Saddleback Mountain, still nearly a mile E.

Abandoning **Prairieview Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

*If at first you don’t succeed, on to **Saddleback Mountain**!* (Center) Photo looks E.

Look back again, SPHP!

Huh? What for, Looper?

At Prairieview Mountain.

Oh, for pity sake!

Good thing we gave up on it!

Eh. You could have done it, Loopster. Just would have taken us forever and a day the way we were going about it.

Looking back at Prairieview Mountain, it was now perfectly clear that the true summit was a big boulder perched way over at the N end of a long talus ridge, the same pile of talus Lupe had started up from the S. She may have reached a point not an awful lot lower than where that highest rock sat before giving up, but she had still been an icky long horizontal scramble from where the true summit actually was.

*Oh, the joke’s on us! We were climbing the wrong (L) end!* **True summit of Prairieview Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Well, whatever! Focus shifted back to the problem at paw. The closer Lupe was getting to Saddleback Mountain, the rockier the upper slopes were looking. Prairieview Mountain on steroids? Hopefully not. A long, gentle N slope appeared to be the easiest approach, but it was far away. Time was ticking. SPHP headed for the S side of the mountain instead.

**Saddleback Mountain’s long N slope** (L) looked like a lovely gentle ramp to the top. SPHP led Lupe to the R. Photo looks NE.

Worked great! At first. Looper gained quite a bit of elevation on grassy S slopes, but she still had hundreds of feet to go when the talus started getting thick. Lanes of vegetation soon got choked off. The Carolina Dog was gradually forced to circle around to the W side of the mountain as she worked her way higher.

In the end, there was no escaping the talus. The last 200 feet were a slow, steep, treacherous, miserable climb, but bit by bit, Loopster was getting there.

*Miserable! What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re doing great! C’mon, pick up the pace!*

The sun was already getting low when Lupe reached a flatter region above the final steep scramble. Egads! The whole mountaintop was nothing but talus! Pretty big stuff. It all sloped gradually higher to the S, where 250 feet away a modest cairn was visible at the summit.

Success in sight, Lupe boulder-hopped her way to the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.).

Nearly there! **Cairn** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

9-3-20, 6:51 PM, Saddleback Mountain – Clouds moved in messing with the light moments before the American Dingo reached the true summit. Too bad, but that’s the way the Milkbone crumbles. The good news was that Lupe now stood next to the cairn on the highest of 3 light pink and gray boulders splotched with black lichens that together constitute the tippy top of Saddleback Mountain.

Tie game! Score: Mountains 1 – Dingoes 1.

On **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

The summit was right next to the S edge of the mountain. In fact, one of the three highest boulders hung halfway out in space. 360 degree views, of course! Massive ridges, deep canyons, and high peaks in all directions except to the NE where Lupe could see clear out to the plains. The air was smoky over there. Lucky that wasn’t the case up here!

To the NW was another perspective on some of the peaks Lupe had seen on the way up Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Mount Wood (12,660 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.) and others farther W.

**Twin Peaks** (L of Center), **Mount Hague** (R of Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Beyond giant ridges, a line of higher flat-topped peaks was visible far to the SSE. Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.), which Lupe had failed to even get to with her friend Jobe Wymore last month, was somewhere over there. Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), too, which she did manage to climb.

SPHP could pick out a peak that looked like Castle Mountain. Sky Pilot would have been hidden beyond it.

The most interesting view of all, though, was to the SW. Phantom Creek and glimpses of Phantom Lake and Froze to Death Lake were visible in a deep canyon. Beyond them stood Mount Peal (12,409 ft.). Farther W, Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the state high point, soared behind Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).

**Mount Peal** (Center) and **Granite Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Tempest Mountain** (L). **Granite Peak** (L of Center) with **Froze to Death Mountain** in front of it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe sat perched on Saddleback Mountain’s summit boulder. Not quite half an hour since she’d arrived. Saddleback had been unplanned bonus peak, but a great one. Sad to have to depart so soon. Better get down, though, before the light was gone.

*We’re leaving already? I was just getting comfortable!*

Looper had barely left the summit when the evening sun broke through the clouds. Suddenly the light was exquisite, the world transformed in an explosion of glowing color and sharp contrasts. A fleeting sublime moment. Lupe paused. What a spectacular end to a spectacular day!

Leaving **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Oh, but it wasn’t over yet, not by a long shot! As always, SPHP was super slow on the long, steep talus descent. Lupe wound up much farther NW than where she’d come up, the sun already long gone by the time SPHP escaped Saddleback Mountain’s tenacious grip.

Dusk deepened, and the first stars glittered, as Loop hurried SW across the plain leading to Prairieview Mountain, dodging scattered boulders and black bush-filled holes between them much of the way.

Reaching Prairieview’s ridgeline a little S of center, the flashlight had to come out. Lupe sniffed and roamed as if it were broad daylight, while SPHP stumbled almost blindly forward through infinite rocks and bushes toward the last minor talus outcroppings farther W.

Beyond them, an hour after dark, dramatic improvement. Easy terrain! A gentle downslope! To the E, a rising ghostly white moon frightened the weakest stars from the night sky. An incredible, but weary moonlit trek! Finally across Phantom Creek trail No. 17 and to the tiny house. A famished American Dingo inhaled dinner, and was gone.

Off to Dingo dreamland! Yeah, it did seem like the place to be.

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Next Adventure Prior Adventure

To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)