Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: On the Highline Trail from Green River Lakes to Beaver Park (7-20-18)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range of Wyoming!

Before SPHP even got the pack ready to go, Lupe went down to the shore of Lower Green River Lake.  Having spent yesterday resting in the G6 while traveling to get here, the Carolina Dog was in fine form and great spirits.  Thankfully, her sore L front paw was no longer bothering her.

Scarcely a ripple marred the still, smooth surface of the big lake.  Beyond it, flanked by other massive peaks stood the majestic sentinel of the NW entrance to Wyoming’s rugged Wind River Range – mighty Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.)!

Squaretop Mountain (R of Center) from Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks SE.

Lupe had been here before.  In 2015, she had taken the Highline Trail on a reconnaissance mission to see if she might be able to climb Squaretop someday.  SPHP had an old book, Wind River Trails by Finis Mitchell, in which Mitchell described a route to the summit from Beaver Park.

Loop’s 2015 reconnaissance had only been a day hike.  She did make it to Beaver Park, but what she had seen wasn’t promising at all – glimpses of giant vertical rock walls soaring more than 2,000 feet above and beyond a densely-forested ridge, the top of which was itself 1,200 feet higher than Beaver Park.

That hadn’t been the end of it, though.  Lupe returned to Green River Lakes in 2017 and took an alternate route up to Porcupine Pass.  SPHP thought maybe she could get to the top of Squaretop Mountain from there, but Loop only made it as far as New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) where a huge, steep snowbank blocked further advance.

In Wind River Trails, Finis Mitchell insisted the route up Squaretop from Beaver Park was “not difficult”.  Finis claimed to have taken 4 year olds up the mountain.  So now, 3 years after her initial reconnaissance, Lupe was back to see if she could find Mitchell’s route!

Still looks impossible, but what are we waiting for? I’m already 7!

7-20-18, 8:28 AM, 59°F – After reading Finis Mitchell’s route description one last time, SPHP left the book in the G6.  All systems go!  It was on!  Lupe headed for the footbridge over the Green River close to where it left Lower Green River Lake.

There’s the bridge over the Green River! It’s just downstream of Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks E.

A year ago, there had been signs warning that a bridge over Clear Creek near the far end of the lake had been wiped out by flooding.  Luckily, no such signs were seen today.

This bridge provides access to the Highline Trail (No. 094)! Photo looks NNE.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe picked up the Highline Trail (No. 94), which would take her all the way to Beaver Park.  For the first couple of miles, the trail ran along the lower slopes of a mountainside paralleling Lower Green River Lake.  Views of the lake, Squaretop Mountain, and all the neighboring peaks were absolutely grand.

(Note: The Highline Trail runs the length of the Wind River Range.)

Starting for Squaretop Mountain (Center) on the Highline Trail. Photo looks SE.
Halfway along Lower Green River Lake. White Rock (11,284 ft.) (L) and Squaretop Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

Lupe had a blast exploring the mountain slopes near the trail.  Almost before she knew it, she was getting close to the S end of Lower Green River Lake.  She passed a junction with the Clear Creek Trail (No. 184).  Shortly thereafter, after going through a stand of tall bushes, Loopster arrived at the new bridge over Clear Creek.

S end of Lower Green River Lake. Squaretop Mountain (L). The Bottle (11,480 ft.) is the rectangular pinnacle at Center. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
Loopster about to cross the new bridge over Clear Creek. Photo looks SE.

Despite no Dingo level pawrails, Lupe had no problem crossing the Clear Creek bridge.  The Highline Trail was now on low, flat terrain.  Soon the Green River was in view again, tranquilly meandering down from Upper Green River Lake.  Another bridge over the Green River was ahead.

The next bridge over the Green River between Upper & Lower Green River Lakes comes into view. Photo looks S.

This next bridge provided access to the Porcupine Trail (No. 137), which Loop had taken to Porcupine Pass last year, or to the Lakeside Trail (No. 144), an alternate route along the W shore of Lower Green River Lake going back to the trailhead.  Lupe did not need to cross it.

Looper skipped this second bridge over the Green River, staying on the Highline Trail. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the bridge, the Highline Trail left the Green River, veering E off into the forest.  Lupe followed it over a minor ridge.  A mere 0.33 mile from the bridge, Upper Green River Lake came into view.

Upper Green River Lake is much smaller than the lower lake, only 7 feet higher, and equally exquisite. Photo looks S.

3 miles from the trailhead now, taking a break somewhere along the shore of the incredibly beautiful upper lake sounded like a great idea.  The Highline Trail was about to cross a marshy area here, so Lupe left it to follow a short spur trail S along the lake’s NW shore.

Squaretop Mountain (L of Center) from Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks SSE.
Squaretop Mountain (L) and The Bottle (R) from Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

The views were stunning, but something else soon became the focus of Lupe’s attention.  A flotilla of 15 ducklings came paddling along close to the shore led by their mama.  A charming sight, they seemed to be thoroughly enjoying a mid-summer float trip on Upper Green River Lake.

Mama duck, admiral of a 15 duckling fleet, came paddling by.
These lucky ducklings had a mama with a keen eye for choice real estate. She could hardly have chosen a more beautiful home for her brood.
Common Goldeneye or perhaps Barrow’s Goldeneye?

After entertaining Lupe for a while, the duck display paddled onward.  The American Dingo moved on, too.  She returned to the Highline Trail, which now proceeded S above the E shore of Upper Green River Lake.

Heading S past Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks S.

Once past Upper Green River Lake, the trail continued S up the Green River valley.  Sometimes the river was in view, and occasionally the Highline Trail even went right by it.  Other times, the river was farther away.  Most of the time Lupe was in the forest, but clearings provided lovely views of Squaretop Mountain, and allowed the American Dingo to gauge her progress.

Lupe cools off in one of many small streams that cross the Highline Trail.
Squaretop Mountain from the Green River Valley. Photo looks S.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens. The Bottle is on the R.
Looking W across the valley.

The trail sometimes went up or down, but net elevation gain was almost negligible.  The day was gorgeous, and the trail began to get busy.  SPHP occasionally stopped to chat briefly with passers-by.  Lupe stayed busy checking trees for squirrels.  The view of Squaretop began to change as the Carolina Dog got closer.

Getting closer, but still 4 miles to Beaver Park! Photo looks S.
The Green River is so beautiful! It’s got that pale, glacial look to it. Photo looks S.
A bend in the Green River. The Bottle is on the L. Photo looks SW.

Approaching Squaretop, the Highline Trail started bending toward the SE.  It stayed in the forest and began to gain elevation.  The Green River was now well below the level of the trail.  Finally the river began to get closer again, and came into view down a steep embankment.  Lupe left the trail and went down to the river.

This was a favorite spot!  Lupe had stopped here in 2015, too.  The Green River was much higher today.  The river poured down a series of rapids past a large rock midstream and disappeared into the forest below.

Loop at her favorite spot along the Green River.
These rapids are down a steep embankment next to the Highline Trail.
The Green River disappears into the forest after flowing around the big rock on the R.

The weather was perfect!  Early afternoon and Beaver Park wasn’t that much farther.  2 or 3 miles maybe?  No more than that.  A break, a nice long one, at this gorgeous spot sounded wonderful!

Lupe rested in the shade of a spruce tree, listening to the mesmerizing roar of the water while snapping at flies and ants.  SPHP dangled a foot in the frigid river until bones ached with cold.  Then the other foot took a turn at suffering, while the first one basked in warm sunshine.  Rinse and repeat, literally, over and over again.

SPHP counted how many times short sticks swirled around in an eddy before the current caught them and they sailed downstream.  Lupe dozed.  The Green River swept relentlessly, hypnotically, by.The river wasn’t the only thing sweeping by.  Time flowed relentlessly along as well.  An hour and 40 minutes vanished, before SPHP finally shook off a lethargy induced by the idyllic setting.  Puppy, ho!  Onward!  But the time spent along the bank of the Green River had sure been splendid.

Lupe returns to the Highline Trail. Granite Peak (9,892 ft.) dead ahead! Photo looks S.

At intervals, Lupe had come to various small streams which crossed the trail.  None had been even close to large enough to cause any problems.  All had merely been places where Loop could get a refreshing drink and cool her paws off.  However, as she was getting close to due E of Granite Peak, she came to two much larger streams in rapid succession.

The first was Elbow Creek.  SPHP didn’t remember crossing any major streams in this area back in 2015, but the Green River was running much higher now than back then, so perhaps these tributaries were also commensurately larger?  Looper was reluctant to ford the scary stream, but after SPHP started across, she ultimately made a successful soaking dash for the opposite bank.

The glow of this success was immediately extinguished upon reaching Pixley Creek minutes later.  Pixley Creek was 20 feet across!  Even at its deepest the stream was only knee deep on SPHP, but the water was fast and powerful.  After hesitating, SPHP waded in.  The force of the water was strong enough to make it doubtful Lupe could be carried across without falling, as had happened while attempting to cross Porcupine Creek last year.

SPHP managed to ford Pixley Creek, but Lupe hadn’t dared to follow this time.  Full of separation anxiety, she ran back and forth along the N bank searching for a way, but it was all too deep and frightening.  She finally sat in the tall grass peering across the stream at SPHP pleading for help.

Desperate not to be left behind, Lupe pleads with SPHP for help crossing swift-flowing Pixley Creek. Only a fraction of the stream’s width is shown here.

SPHP was convinced Lupe would be fine if she swam across herself, but no amount of coaxing could induce her to enter the stream.  Pixley Creek was frigid, over her head, and simply too terrifying.  In all fairness, if the situation had been reversed, no way would SPHP have done it either.

Downstream of the Highline Trail, a single log bleached white by the sun was stretched out across the entire width of Pixley Creek.  The log wasn’t terribly wide, especially near the S bank.  The danger was that if Lupe fell off it, the stream would instantly wash her into a logjam of sticks, branches and other logs immediately downstream.

When nothing else worked, SPHP reluctantly pointed the white log out.  Lupe caught on instantly!  While SPHP looked on with trepidation, the Carolina Dog raced across without the slightest problem.  Worked great, but SPHP still didn’t like it.  The what if was too terrible to think about.

At any rate, Lupe was safely across Pixley Creek.  The trail continued S up the Green River valley.  Sometimes it wound fairly high up into the forest.  Sometimes it went right along the Green River.  SPHP made one mistake leading Lupe down a short side spur that ended at the river.

Continuing up the Green River valley S of Pixley Creek. Photo looks S.
SPHP made a mistake going down to the river here. The Highline Trail actually stayed up in the forest. Photo looks S.

The Highline Trail was in the forest up on a mountainside when Lupe went around a sharp bend and saw a bridge over the Green River.  The bridge was a welcome sight.  Beaver Park was close at paw!

The footbridge over the Green River near Beaver Park. Photo looks SE.
Crossing the Green River. Photo looks NE.
This is how river crossings are meant to be!
Looking up the Green River from the bridge near Beaver Park.
Looking downstream.

Once across this last big bridge, Lupe was actually on an island.  A short distance farther on the trail brought her to a little bridge across a small side channel of the Green River.  Beyond this little bridge Lupe entered Beaver Park again for the first time since 2015.

Crossing the little bridge over the side channel. The open meadows of Beaver Park are already partially in view beyond the trees. Photo looks SW.
Beaver Park. Parts of Squaretop Mountain are visible beyond the near ridge. Granite Lake is hidden up on the ridge. Granite Peak is on the R. Photo looks WNW.

It was 5:30 PM when Lupe reached Beaver Park.  The Highline Trail had been busy all afternoon.  Yet no one was at Beaver Park.  A single tent was set up near a small grove of big pines near the S end, but nobody was there at the moment.

W of Beaver Park was the same 1200 foot high forested ridge Lupe had seen in 2015.  Towering portions of Squaretop Mountain loomed above and beyond it.  The original plan for the day had been to camp up on that 1200 foot high ridge by Granite Lake, which couldn’t be seen from here.  Camping up at the lake would save hours and all that elevation gain tomorrow when Lupe hoped to climb Squaretop Mountain.

However, it had been a long march from Lower Green River Lake carrying the pack, something on the order of 11 or 12 miles.  SPHP was tired.  Lupe was ready to call it a day, too.  Would have been better to get here earlier.  Too much time had been allowed to slip away while relaxing by the Green River rapids.  SPHP didn’t know of any trail up the ridge.  A bushwhack might easily consume hours.

It turned out that much of Beaver Park was lumpy, boggy ground.  The lone tent already set up at the cluster of pines occupied about the only really dry, level place.  A reasonably acceptable spot was found about 80 feet N.  SPHP set up Lupe’s new Marmot tiny house.

Lupe by her new Marmot tiny house in Beaver Park. Photo looks NE.

The sun was barely down behind the mountains when Lupe and SPHP crawled into the tiny house to hit the hay.  Smart to get as much rest as possible, but making Beaver Park base camp instead of Granite Lake was a major mistake.

It wouldn’t be the last.

In a contemplative mood the evening before what was likely to be Lupe’s final chance to climb Squaretop Mountain 7-20-18

Links:

Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Beaver Park to the Summit (7-21-18)

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & The Highline Trail to Beaver Park (8-30-15)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Green River Lakes to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: New Benchmark – Victory & Defeat! (7-15-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 3: The Dome Peak Salvage Operation (7-16-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Duncum Mountain & Sheep Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming & the Bighorn County, Montana High Point (7-18-18)

Day 6 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range of Wyoming!

Hah!  So easy!  In a 20 mph NW wind, Lupe stood next to the little cairn at Duncum Mountain’s true summit.  Less than 10 minutes ago (7:14 AM, 47°F), SPHP had parked the G6 at the highest point of USFS Road No. 11 just E of the summit.  Except for what appeared to be a diffuse haze from the smoke of distant wildfires, the sky was clear.

Lupe had views in every direction from the treeless, flat mountaintop.  The last time she’d been here a little over a month ago, she hadn’t seen a thing.  Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.) had been shrouded in dense fog.

After having been here once before on a foggy evening more than a month ago, Lupe returns to the true (NW) summit of Duncum Mountain. Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) is seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.

SPHP had practically gotten lost in the fog back then.  Seemed silly now.  The top of the mountain, although big and flat, wasn’t nearly as large as it had seemed in the fog.  The long, deep depression E of the cairn didn’t seem nearly as big as it had before either.

Miss Tasty Schnoz on Duncum Mountain. Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.) (Center), site of a muddy adventure at the end of Lupe’s last Dingo Vacation in June, is in view.  Devil Canyon on the L.  Photo looks NW.

Duncum Mountain has 2 summits, one to the NW where Lupe was now, and one only 1 foot lower a mile to the SE.  Lupe had already been to the SE summit in June.  She had gotten to see more there, since the fog had just been rolling in.  By returning to the NW summit this morning when it was possible to get a look around, it felt like Loop had taken care of some unfinished business.

The SE summit (Center) from Duncum Mountain’s NW summit. Loopster had already explored the SE summit back in June. The cairn here on the NW summit is beyond Lupe’s head. Photo looks SE.

The most important view from Duncum Mountain for the Carolina Dog today was of Sheep Mountain (9813 ft.) 5 miles to the N.  That’s where she would be heading next.

So that’s Sheep Mountain way over there? I hope there’s lots of sheep when we get there! Photo looks N.
Sheep Mountain from Duncum Mountain with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

All corked up and excited by her breezy romp on Duncum Mountain, Lupe returned to the G6.  (7:35 AM).  SPHP drove N on USFS Road No. 11.  Two miles led to a junction where USFS Road No. 110 curved off to the E on its way to Boyd Ridge.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on No. 11.

Approaching a junction with USFS Road No. 110. Photo looks NE.

A second junction was only another mile N.  USFS Road No. 111 (Marble Quarry Road) headed off to the NE.  No. 11 continued N toward Sheep Mountain.  SPHP parked the G6 at the intersection.  Looked like No. 11 (actually No. 11.01) deteriorated significantly from here.

Sheep Mountain was only 2 miles away.  Lupe and SPHP set off on paw and foot down No. 11.  (8:26 AM, 51°F)

Sheep Mountain from USFS Road No. 11. Photo looks NNW.
At the intersection of USFS Road No. 111 (Marble Canyon Road) (R) and No. 11 (or 11.01) (L). More like 7 miles to the Montana state line the way No. 11 goes. Photo looks NNW.

20 minutes later, the Carolina Dog was back.  Why, No. 11 wasn’t so bad!  A short initial stretch was rough, but the G6 ought to be able to sneak through.  The road got better just down the hill.  Lupe and SPHP piled in.  Carefully, carefully SPHP nursed the G6 through the rough zone.

No. 11 snakes away toward Sheep Mountain. The road was pretty good here, a little N of the junction with Marble Canyon Road. Photo looks NW.

Lousy idea!  The good stretch of road wasn’t that long.  The G6 managed to make it all the way to a third junction S of Sheep Mountain, but SPHP vowed never again!  High clearance would have made all the difference in the world.  Of course, Pontiac always boasted of building excitement into every vehicle.  The excitement of wondering if you are ever actually going to get there or not.

Still, the G6 was a trooper.  Lupe was practically at Sheep Mountain’s S slope.  SPHP parked near the junction of USFS Road No. 105, which goes to Hannans Coulee, and No. 11.  (9:05 AM, 51°F)  Lupe hopped out and started climbing.

At the junction of USFS Road No. 105 (L) to Hannan’s Coulee, and No. 11.01 (R) to the Montana state line. Sheep Mountain’s S slope is dead ahead. Photo looks NW.
Starting up Sheep Mountain. Photo looks NNW.

The S end of Sheep Mountain was a big, rounded, grassy slope dotted with big rocks.  Lupe was in for a long, but easy climb.  She came to a couple of larger rock outcroppings on the way.

On the first big rock outcropping of the S slope. Photo looks N.
None so far. All the sheep must be up on top! At the second outcropping. Photo looks N.

The top of Sheep Mountain was a vast plain, slightly higher toward the far N end where large, vertical-sided, flat rock formations appeared to delineate a sharp edge.  To the Carolina Dog’s immense disappointment, not a single sheep was to be seen.

To Lupe’s chagrin, not a single sheep was evident on Sheep Mountain. Photo looks N.

As Lupe approached the rock formations, it began to dawn on SPHP that what had seemed like a complete cake walk might not be so easy after all.  Deep fissures scarred the N end of Sheep Mountain dividing massive platforms of rock into separate islands in the sky.

Loop might not even be able to get close to the summit!

The N end of Sheep Mountain featured deep fissures. Photo looks N.

The situation wasn’t as worrisome as it first appeared.  The long fissures weren’t necessarily continuous.  Lupe crossed one at a merely shallow spot.  She was soon next to the highest platform, located along the NW side of the mountain.  Here, though, the fissures prevented her from getting any closer.

Loop was able to cross the big fissure beyond her, merely a shallow dip here. Photo looks N.
Stymied! The highest platform is on the L, but there is an unseen fissure between here and there. Photo looks NW.

This wasn’t going to work.  Lupe circled back around to the SW looking for a way to enter the fissure separating her from the highest platform.

Yes!  There was a way!

Circling a little back around to the SW, Lupe found a way into this fissure next to the highest platform (L). Photo looks N.
A closer look at the fissure Loopster was about to explore. Photo looks N.

Lupe went through the fissure.  Even though the rock platforms were only 25 or 30 feet high, she reached the far end without seeing a way up.  Here she discovered another fissure perpendicular to the one she had just come through.  Turning L, this second fissure ended at two windows opening onto cliffs.

The window to the NNE at the W end of the second fissure.
Looking through the window to the NW.

From the W end of the second fissure, Lupe saw a place where she could scramble up to a narrow shelf along the N side of the highest platform.  Whether it would lead to a route to the top or not wasn’t clear, but it looked worth trying.

Looking ESE along the second fissure. Lupe is standing on the narrow shelf along the N end of the highest platform. The first fissure Lupe had come through is unseen on the R 10 or 15 feet beyond the backpack.

Lupe could travel along the shelf easily enough, but overhanging rock forced SPHP to crawl 8 or 10 feet before being able to stand.  The top of the platform wasn’t all that much higher, but this N end presented no opportunity to get up there.  It appeared possible, though, that the shelf might extend around the corner leading into the first fissure.

It did!  As soon as Loop made the turn, she saw a route up.  In a flash, the American Dingo scrambled to the top of Sheep Mountain (9,813 ft.).

This had to be it, didn’t it?  Old boards and smooth wire like Lupe had seen at many other summits were scattered around.  A crude circle of big rocks surrounded the “Sheep” benchmark.  Yeah, this was it!

At the summit of Sheep Mountain. Photo looks NW.
Lupe stands on rocks that form part of the circle around the Sheep survey benchmark. Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.) (L) and East Pryor Mountain (8,776 ft.) (R) are in the background. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
The Sheep survey benchmark.

Nails were sticking out of the old boards.  First thing SPHP did was to toss all the boards into one big pile so Looper wouldn’t get hurt.  Then, after discovering the survey benchmark, it was time for a look around.

Off to the NE was another rock formation that looked like it might even be a few feet higher than this one.  Hard to tell, but it certainly had to be close to as high as Lupe was here, if not higher.  Hmm.  Maybe she could check out that high point, too?

As it was, if this was good enough for the surveyor, it was good enough for Dingo work.  The Carolina Dog was claiming a successful ascent of Sheep Mountain (9,813 ft.), whether she ever got over there or not!

Another high point (Center) to the NE looked like it was in contention for true summit. The Sheep survey benchmark is partially in view (R of Center) near the lower edge. Photo looks NE.

In all directions, Lupe had sweeping views of typical Bighorn Mountain high country.  Sheep Mountain isn’t in a particularly rugged part of the range.  The overall impression was one of vastness.

Looking NNE along the N end of Sheep Mountain. USFS Road No. 11.01 can be seen heading up a grassy hill (L) which is High Point 9811.
Devil Canyon. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) (L). Photo looks SW.
Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.) (R) is the distant grassy ridge with a little snow on it. Photo looks SE.
A look at the first rock platform Lupe had come to from which she’d had to retreat. Photo looks E.

Once again, the views to the N were of particular interest.  Lupe’s final objective, the Big Horn County High Point (9,257 ft.) at the Montana border was less than 5 miles NNW as the crow flies.  A line of sheer cliffs could be seen in that direction.  Beyond them were two more distant high points.  Hard to tell from here exactly where the Big Horn County High Point might be, but it had to be somewhere in that vicinity.

Lupe’s next objective, the Big Horn County High Point in Montana, had to be somewhere close to the line of high cliffs (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks NNW.
This line of cliffs (Center) is actually the S edge of High Point 9222 (topo map). The Big Horn County, MT High Point is the next forested hill beyond the cliffs toward the L. Photo looks NNW.

The sights from Sheep Mountain were beautiful, but with such a long trek ahead, Lupe stayed up on the summit platform only half an hour.  She wanted to spend at least some time seeing if she could get over to that competing high point to the NE.

As Lupe was about to start back down, SPHP suddenly spotted a second survey marker.  Loop had gone right by it on the way up.  This marker also said “Sheep” and had an arrow pointing toward the benchmark in the circle of rocks.

About ready to head back down into the fissures, Lupe stands in front of a 2nd survey marker. Photo looks NE.
Lupe had gone right past “Sheep No. 1” on the way up. SPHP hadn’t noticed it then.
Loop down on the shelf she would follow around to the L. She is right beside the first fissure she had explored. Photo looks SE.

Once back down at the W end of the second fissure again, Lupe headed E through it.  She emerged at a flat, open area.  To the N was a wall of rock.

Loop confronts a wall of rock after traveling through the second fissure. Photo looks N.

Getting past the rock wall was easy enough.  Lupe dropped down a slope to the E, then turned N again.  Soon she had worked her way around to the backside of the competing high point.

Going around the E side of the rock wall. Photo looks NW.
On the backside of the competing high point (L). Photo looks SSW.

The competing high point was only a 20 or 25 foot high scramble, but it was steep with exposure.  SPHP considered it, but ultimately decided against an attempt.  Lupe could have climbed up easily enough, but she wasn’t going to, not if SPHP wasn’t.  Nah, not worth it.  A little too scary.  The top looked narrow and precarious.

Beyond yet another smaller rock formation to the N, Sheep Mountain dropped off sharply.  Lupe and SPHP retreated S back around the rock wall, through the fissures, and headed SE.  As soon as it was practical, Lupe started down the E slope.  She turned NE, passing through bits of forest, which she enjoyed, ultimately returning to USFS Road No. 11.01.

Beyond this much smaller rock formation, Sheep Mountain dropped off sharply. Lupe and SPHP retreated back to the S. Photo looks N.
On the way back down to USFS Road No. 11.01. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching No. 11.01 again, a 4 mile trek N began.  The road switchbacked around a little on the way down Sheep Mountain’s N slope.  N of Point 9162 Loop traveled W of the road through a forested area to get out of the sun and wind.  However, the forest soon ended, and Loopster returned to the breezy, open road.

By the time Lupe reached a saddle S of High Point 9118, she had lost nearly 1,000 feet of elevation.

Taking a break at the saddle S of High Point 9118. Photo looks N.

Looper now had to regain a quarter of that 1,000 feet going up and over High Point 9118.  She came to two intersections on the way.  First, USFS Road No. 103 angled off to the L on its way to Cookstove Basin.  Higher up, a faint No. 101 disappeared into sparse grass E of No. 11.01.

At the first intersection on the way up High Point 9118. No. 103 to Cookstove Basin is on the L. Lupe, of course, stayed to the R on No. 11.01. Photo looks NNW.

From the top of High Point 9118, Lupe had a nice view of Sheep Mountain back to the S.

Sheep Mountain from High Point 9118. Photo looks S.

She could also see N most of the rest of the way to the Montana state line.  From here on, the elevation changes along No. 11.01 were minor.  The road became an easy, breezy stroll along the open, rolling spine of the Bighorn Range.

USFS Road No. 11.01 heads N for the Montana border. Grassy High Point 9203 (L) is in cloud shadow. The Big Horn County High Point lies beyond the cliffs of High Point 9222 (far L). Photo looks NNW.
Hurry it up, SPHP! I’m looking right into the sun! The Big Horn County, Montana High Point is in the forest peeping up beyond the cliffs of High Point 9222 (L). High Point 9203 (R). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Approaching the Montana state line, No. 11.01 curved W, then back to the N as it entered the Lime Creek drainage.  A rough unmarked road, which may have been USFS Road No. 647, headed up a ridge to the W.  Lupe followed No. 11.01 all the way down to a fenced-off cattle guard.  The American Dingo had made it to the Montana border!

USFS Road No. 11.01 heads down into the Lime Creek drainage. The road going up the next ridge may be No. 647. The hill at (Center) is well into Montana. Photo looks NW.
At the Montana border! The Big Horn County, MT High Point is 0.67 mile W from here. Photo looks NW from the Wyoming side.
What may be USFS Road No. 647 from No. 11.01. Photo looks W.

The Big Horn County, MT High Point was only 0.67 mile W from where Looper reached the Montana border.  Still on the Wyoming side, she turned W following the fence, but soon came to a second fence which had fallen over leaving 4 strands of barbed wire laying on the ground.  To avoid this hazard, Lupe left the fence line and took the unmarked road (No. 647?) WSW.

This road climbed steadily, and angled even farther away from the fence heading SW along the SE side of a big drainage.  Soon Lupe could see the big hill the fence had headed for on the far side of the drainage.  That hill had to be the Big Horn County High Point!

Wildflowers along Lupe’s route.
There it is! The Big Horn County, Montana High Point is up on that hill! Photo looks NW.

Heading around the SW end of the big drainage without losing elevation, Lupe then turned NNW.  She discovered a jeep trail, and followed it up to the Big Horn County High Point (9,257 ft.).

The top of the mountain was pleasant, but unremarkable.  A 300 or 400 foot wide clearing of nearly level ground was surrounded on most sides by conifer forest.  The only significant views were to the S or SE where there were few interfering trees.  The barbed wire fence along the Wyoming/Montana line divided the clearing into roughly equal parts, half in Wyoming and half in Montana.

The highest ground was a bit lumpy and more toward the W side of the clearing, but still out in the open.  A closed gate in the fence wasn’t far from the forest.  SPHP did not open the gate.  Instead, Lupe snuck under it.  She was now in Montana.

SPHP had read trip reports saying a cairn was supposed to be close to this gate.  Lupe found no cairn, but did find 5 white stones laying next to one another 10 feet NE of the E end of the gate.

On the Montana side of the gate in the border fence. Photo looks SSW.
Possible remnant of a cairn?

A 5 foot yellow wand stood 20 feet E of the gate, and 5 or 6 feet N of the fence.  Next to it was a short vertical pipe capped with a survey marker saying “Big Horn”.  The base of the yellow wand was cracked and in poor condition, but for now the wand still stood swaying in a gentle breeze.

Loopster barely inside Montana next to the yellow wand and survey marker at the Big Horn County High Point. Photo looks SE.
This Big Horn boundary post was 5 or 6 feet N of the fence. Maybe the fence is actually that far into Wyoming?

Lupe sniffed a little way into Montana.  70 feet NW of the gate, right along the edge of the forest, she made a discovery.  White rocks spelled out a 2 word message.  Only the “O” in the first word was legible, but the second word was clearly “land”.  No doubt the message was intended to be “Crow Land”.

Trip reports SPHP had seen online had indicated “No Trespassing” signs were along the fence both here at the Big Horn County High Point, and back where USFS Road No. 11.01 reached the Montana border, but Lupe and SPHP had seen none at all anywhere today.

This message from the Crow Tribe was 70 feet NW of the gate, which was as far as the Carolina Dog went. Photo looks NW.

Short lengths of barbed wire were scattered around the area near the fence by the cairn remnant and the survey marker.  Not a good thing.  Lupe and SPHP retreated back into Wyoming.

It was a beautiful day, 60° F with puffy white clouds sailing by.  The W wind had blown 15 to 20 mph most of the way here, but now it was only a soft breeze.  Lupe liked the idea of resting in the shade at the edge of the forest.  SPHP noticed she was licking her L front paw.

Close inspection revealed a couple small pieces of some dark material stuck in the fur between her pads.  They didn’t look all that significant, but perhaps they were causing some abrasion?  SPHP pulled them out.  Lupe kept licking.  When that grew tiresome, she took a nap.

Snoozing by the edge of the forest.

Close to an hour went by.  Better get moving.  SPHP hoped Lupe’s paw was OK.  Coming up lame way out here wouldn’t be good.  Having seen what sights Montana’s Bighorn County High Point had to offer, Lupe and SPHP followed the jeep trail down the S slope.

No sense in going way back to where USFS Road No. 11.01 reached the Montana border.  Lupe could take a more scenic and shorter route now that she knew the lay of the land.  A trip to High Point 9222 was in order to see how the world looked from the top of those cliffs she’d seen much of the day.

Hey, let’s go take a look a things from High Point 9222! It’s that platform of rocks at the far end of this giant field. C’mon! Sheep Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSE.

High Point 9222 was awesome!  A narrow neck of rocky terrain led to a platform of rock jutting out to the S beyond the rest of the line of cliffs.  This platform had several lobes.  Lupe had tremendous views not only of the cliffs nearby, but of a huge 270° panorama to the SE, SW, & NW.

Cookstove Basin from High Point 9222. Photo looks SW.
Looking back toward the Big Horn County High Point (R). Photo looks NNW.
At the top of High Point 9222. Sheep Mountain (L) and Medicine Mountain (Center on the far horizon) in view. Photo looks S.
Looking WSW.
An amazing column with a pedestal on top. High Point 9203 (R) in the background. Photo looks SE.
Big Pryor Mountain (Center) and East Pryor Mountain (R) both many miles away in a haze. Photo looks NW.

After taking in the wonderful views from High Point 9222, Lupe traveled E, ultimately going SE around the upper NE slopes of High Point 9203, then on down to intersect USFS Road No. 11.01 again.  Lupe kept licking her front L paw, but at least it didn’t seem to be getting worse.

Looper was all the way back to the saddle S of High Point 9118 again, when SPHP suddenly realized a line of showers was approaching from the W.  It became a race to get back to the G6 before they hit.  Following the road, Lupe climbed the lower N slopes of Sheep Mountain.

When No. 11.01 eventually began to lose elevation E of Sheep Mountain, the Carolina Dog left the road cutting S along the mountainside.  This was somewhat of a shortcut, but still a long way.  Lupe ended up passing NW of High Point 9586 on Sheep Mountain’s SW ridge before returning to No. 11.01 again.

Raindrops began falling several minutes before Lupe reached the G6.  (6:21 PM, 61°F)  Fortunately, the shower didn’t amount to much, and soon blew on by.  The G6 made a slow, careful escape of the lousy section of road back to the intersection with No. 11 and No. 111 (Point 9422).

Lupe was at Highway 14A when the sun reappeared below a cloud bank as it sank rapidly toward the horizon.  The Carolina Dog was famished!  She devoured a whole can of Alpo.  She followed up with a helping of Taste of the Wild.  She was thirsty, and lapped up a bowlful of water.

And Lupe was tired!  Duncum Mountain, Sheep Mountain, and the Big Horn County, Montana High Point had been a long day.  The G6 was parked E of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.) when Lupe curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets and fell fast asleep.

Sunset, Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming 7-18-18

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Bucking Mule Falls, Porcupine Falls & Duncum Mountain, Bighorn Range, Wyoming (6-14-18)

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Gunboat Lake to Lily Lake, Bighorn Mountains & Rejected at Heart Mountain near Cody, Wyoming (7-16-18 & 7-17-18)

Days 4 & 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming!

7-16-18, morning, Gunboat Lake – The sun was already shining on the new Marmot tiny house.  Lupe was still lazing about inside being petted, and having her belly scratched.  All ambition was gone.  One night’s rest hadn’t made up for two strenuous days culminating in the Carolina Dog’s successful ascent of Bomber Mountain yesterday.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP felt like doing a darn thing.

Eventually, that had to change.  SPHP packed up the tiny house, as Lupe relaxed or sniffed around her Gunboat Lake base camp a final time.  She could still see the rocky knob on Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.) that had appeared to be as high as the official true summit.

Lupe takes it easy on a beautiful morning in the Bighorns. One of the smaller Fortress Lakes is beyond her. The high ridges are all part of Bomber Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Lupe’s base camp for her ascent of Bomber Mountain yesterday had been established on this grassy ridge overlooking Gunboat Lake. Photo looks SSW.

When SPHP had everything ready to go, Lupe posed for a final photo of Bomber Mountain from close to where her tiny house had been.

Loop bids farewell to Bomber Mountain (beyond her). Photo looks NE.

Lupe left the grassy ridge overlooking Gunboat Lake heading NW.  She was still on the ridge when she came to a profusion of lupines blooming in purple splendor.  The largest of the Fortress Lakes was just ahead.

Having barely left Gunboat Lake, Lupe came to this hillside of beautiful purple lupines. The E end of the largest of the Fortress Lakes is ahead. Photo looks NW.

Solitude Trail (No. 038) was close by.  Lupe followed the trail W near the S shore of the largest of the Fortress Lakes.

Loop reaches the Solitude Trail. Photo looks W.
Looking back from the W end of the largest of the Fortress Lakes. Photo looks E.

Mistymoon Lake is less than a mile from Gunboat Lake.  As Mistymoon came into view, Lupe could see the pass she would have to go over to get to the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek beyond the lake.

W of the Fortress Lakes, Mistymoon Lake (R) comes into view. The pass (R of Center) leading to the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek is in sight beyond the lake. Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) is at Center. Photo looks W.
A small waterfall on the creek coming down from the Fortress Lakes to Mistymoon Lake. The trail did not cross this creek between Gunboat and Mistymoon Lakes.

At Mistymoon Lake, Lupe had lost 450 feet of elevation since departing base camp.  She followed the Solitude Trail W along the S shore, crossing West Tensleep Creek.  SPHP managed to rock hop it, after having forded this same stream a couple of days ago.

SW of Mistymoon Lake, Lupe reached a junction with Mistymoon Trail (No. 063).  Cloud Peak (13,157 ft.) was now in sight.

Cloud Peak (Center) from Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks NE.

The Mistymoon Trail comes up from West Tensleep Lake to the S, but Lupe needed to go W.  She stayed on the Solitude Trail turning N along the W side of Mistymoon Lake.  SPHP’s old Bighorn National Forest map showed another junction along in here with the Middle Paint Rock Creek Trail (No. 066), which was what Lupe was looking for, but she didn’t come to it.

No matter.  The pass Lupe needed to get to was up a big open slope.  It looked like an easy climb.  Loop left the Solitude Trail heading W.

The trek turned out to be longer than expected due to having to avoid some boggy areas.  Ordinarily it wouldn’t have seemed like much of a climb, but after 2 long days spent getting to the top of Bomber Mountain, SPHP was played out.  Lupe was in better shape, but even she sometimes took opportunities to rest on the grassy slope.

Near the pass, Lupe finally did find the Middle Paint Rock Creek Trail.  Apparently she would have come to it if she had simply stayed on the Solitude Trail until she was NW of Mistymoon Lake.

Loop takes a break after finding the Middle Paint Rock Creek Trail near the pass W of Mistymoon Lake (R). Cloud Peak (L) and Bomber Mountain (Center) are in view. Photo looks ENE.
Looking ESE from the same spot. The saddle (R of Center) leading to the Fortress Lakes, Gunboat Lake & Florence Pass is beyond Mistymoon Lake.

Lupe followed the Middle Paint Rock Creek Trail the rest of the way up to the pass.  The pass was a broad meadow strewn with boulders and rocks.  The trail continued W along the S shore of a good-sized tarn.

By reaching the pass, Lupe had regained nearly all of the elevation she had lost going down to Mistymoon Lake.  She wouldn’t have to face any additional significant elevation gains the rest of the day.  From here, the Middle Paint Rock Creek Trail turned SW beginning a miles long descent through the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek.

This pass was the last chance for a good look at Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), highest of the entire Bighorn Range, and Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.), which Lupe had climbed only yesterday.

Lupe reaches a tarn in the pass 0.5 mile W of Mistymoon Lake. Cloud Peak (Center) and Bomber Mountain (R) are still in view. Photo looks NE.
Well, this is it for views of mighty Cloud Peak (L) and Bomber Mountain (R) on this trip. We’ll be exploring the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek down to Lily Lake next! Photo looks NE.
Upper end of the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek from the pass W of Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks SW.

After enjoying the views from the pass, Lupe headed SW into the valley of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek.  The upper end of the big valley was all treeless meadows and scattered rocks.  Going downhill again felt great!  The American Dingo ran and explored at will.

Exploring upper Middle Fork Paint Rock Creek valley. Photo looks S toward Peak 11112.

Less than 0.5 mile from the pass, Lupe saw 3 cowboys on horseback.  They were coming up the trail near a smaller tarn.  Horses are always exciting!  The Carolina Dog was good, though, and let them all go by without barking.

Lupe was excited to see 3 cowboys on horseback coming up the trail. Photo looks SSW.

The smaller tarn was a pretty spot.  It looked like a good place to camp.  A stand of pines was near the S shore.  From SW of the tarn, Lupe could still catch a glimpse of Cloud Peak.

At a pretty tarn 0.5 mile SW of the pass. Photo looks SSW.
Looking NE back up the valley. A glimpse of Cloud Peak (L) is still available.

Beyond the scenic tarn, the Middle Fork Paint Rock Creek Trail soon dropped into the lower part of the valley.  This was a region of scattered pines, which gradually became more heavily forested.

Beyond the scenic tarn, the Middle Fork Paint Rock Creek Trail drops into the lower valley. Scattered stands of pines provided occasional shade in this region. Photo looks SW.
Approaching the lower valley. Photo looks SW.

Lily Lake must be close to 4 miles from Mistymoon Lake.  Large cumulus clouds were building over the high country as Loopster continued down the valley.  Thunder could occasionally be heard.  The trail forked before crossing over to the N side of the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek.  Up until now, the creek hadn’t been anywhere near the trail.

Lupe and SPHP had no sooner forded the creek, when the 3 cowboys reappeared, now fleeing stormy weather back at the pass.  They also forded the creek, their horses passing within only a foot of the Carolina Dog, who fortunately demonstrated enormous self-control.

Beyond the ford, Lupe came to a wide, treeless bog.  Somehow SPHP lost the main trail and wound up on some faint side track S of the main one.  A mucky march got Lupe to a hillside W of the marsh.  A dirt road led N to an intersection close to the SE end of Lily Lake.  Several dirt roads met up here.  What little signage existed was confusing.

SPHP’s map was wrong again.  It showed the Middle Fork Paint Rock Creek Trail heading SW from SE of Lily Lake.  After needless marching back and forth trying to figure out which way to go, SPHP finally asked a fisherman where the road to the Middle Fork trailhead was.  It turned out that it headed SW from the SW end of Lily Lake.

Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) from the S shore of Lily Lake. Photo looks NE.

Lily Lake was a popular spot.  Lots of people were fishing and camping.  The rest of the Middle Fork Paint Rock Creek Trail from Lily Lake for about 2 miles back to the Middle Fork trailhead was all jeep trail.  ATV’s roared up and down it, sending clouds of dust into the air.

The road hike to the Middle Fork trailhead wasn’t as fun as the single track trail prior to reaching Lily Lake.  Lupe disagreed.  Nearly the entire way, the road wound through a heavily forested region where squirrels provided exciting entertainment.

Is there anything in the world more entertaining than a squirrel?

Rain threatened.  SPHP expected it to start at any moment, but it never did.  Loopster reached USFS Road No. 24 at the Middle Fork trailhead completely dry.  The storm had passed and the sun was out by the time she made it to Battle Park and the Bucking Mule trailhead where the G6 was parked at the end of the road.  (3:22 PM, 66°F)

Lupe’s Bomber Mountain adventure was over.  A chance to recuperate.  SPHP drove back to Highway 16, then E over Powder River Pass.  Lupe spent the evening at Munkres Pass (9,447 ft.).  She explored the forest both N and S of the pass.  While she had a good time sniffing around, these were aimless wanderings lasting only half an hour each.

7-17-18, noon, Munkres Pass – A lazy morning had shot by.  Lupe and SPHP had spent some time collecting trash in the forest S of the road.  Not too much on the agenda today.  The plan was just to get into position to climb Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.) tomorrow, a dramatic lone peak N of Cody, Wyoming with over 2,100 feet of prominence.

Loop at Munkres Pass. In 2014 she had climbed Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.) from here.

Lupe left Munkres Pass early in the afternoon.  SPHP drove W back over Powder River Pass, and eventually down out of the Bighorns via scenic Tensleep Canyon.

Tensleep Canyon. Photo looks SW.

A plaque in Tensleep Canyon commemorated a monument to Gilbert Leigh, who fell to his death while hunting bighorn sheep in 1884.  The actual monument was out of sight somewhere way up on the rim of the canyon.

This plaque in was interesting, but gave no hint of how to get to the actual monument it referred to.
Looking up Tensleep Canyon from a short path below Highway 16. Photo looks NE.
A section of the N rim.

The drive continued W of the Bighorns.  By early evening, there it was!  Heart Mountain was off in the distance to the SW.  It did look dramatic beneath an unsettled sky.

Early in the evening, Heart Mountain came into view. Photo looks SW.
Heart Mountain with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Heading S on Highway 14A, SPHP turned R (W) onto Park County Road No. 19.

Looper by the turn off Highway 14A onto Park County Road No. 19. Photo looks S.

Road No. 19 immediately crossed railroad tracks.  After 1.5 miles, No. 19 became Lane 13H.  3.2 miles on Lane 13H brought Lupe to a junction with Road No. 22.  The Carolina Dog had reached the Heart Mountain Ranch Preserve administered by the Nature Conservancy.

At the junction of Lane 13H and R22 at the start of the Heart Mountain Ranch Preserve. Photo looks SW.

Another 3 miles on Lane 13H brought Lupe to a locked gate.  This was the Heart Mountain trailhead.  A maintained trail goes 4 miles all the way to the top of Heart Mountain from here.  Success seemed assured!  Everything was perfect, except for one critical detail.  A big sign on the gate said Dingoes were not welcome.

After a long afternoon drive, Lupe arrives at the Heart Mountain trailhead to find out she isn’t welcome here. Photo looks SW.
The Nature Conservancy was sort of adamant about no Dingoes. It was Rule No. 1 in caps and blue letters. No other rule was even close to being so important. So much for “Welcome to Heart Mountain Ranch Preserve”.

Well, phooey.  It had been a pleasant afternoon’s drive, but apparently in vain.  Looper was never going to climb Heart Mountain.  This trailhead was as close as she was ever going to get.

Loop rejected, but not too dejected, a few miles from Heart Mountain. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

So that was that.  Stymied, Lupe and SPHP turned tail and left.  Time for Plan B!  By sundown, Lupe was back in the Bighorns.  By the time it was dark, the G6 was way up on Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.).  Not Heart Mountain, but Loop had unfinished business here.  Her adventures would resume in the morning.

Back in the Bighorns at sundown.
Sunset, Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming 7-17-18

Heart Mountain Directions – From Powell, WY go 11 miles SW on Hwy 14A.  Turn R (W) on Road No. 19.  Go 1.5 miles.  No. 19 becomes Lane 13H.  Follow Lane 13H W 3.2 miles to an intersection with Road No. 22.  Heart Mountain Ranch HQ is 0.3 mile down No. 22, a L turn.  Staying on Lane 13H go 1 mile to a closed gate, supposedly typically unlocked.  The trailhead is 2 miles farther at a locked gate.

The Heart Mountain trail is a maintained trail 4 miles long that goes to the summit.  Elevation gain is approximately 2,500 feet.  Don’t bother bringing your Dingo.

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