Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 264 – Peak 5017 & Peak 5316 (2-2-21)

9:00 AM, 49ºF, Song Dog Road (USFS Road No. 682), 0.25 mile W of the Wind Cave National Park water supply area –  Oh, what a fabulous day!  Sunny and very warm for the beginning of February in the Black Hills.  Lupe was here to make the most of it while she could!  For the first time this winter, a long stretch of extremely cold weather was coming soon.

Loopster had been here a couple of times before back in 2017 to scale the Twin Sisters Range Highpoint (4,980 ft.), just a little over a mile ENE and already in sight.  However, that wasn’t going to be the Carolina Dog’s destination today.  On to something new!  A couple of 300+ foot prominence peaks taken from Lists of John were her objectives.

The N face of the first one, Peak 5017, dominated the view from here.

Twin Sisters Range (L) and the N face of Peak 5017 (R). Photo looks E.

Ready, Looper?

Been waiting on you, as usual, SPHP!

Ahh, yes, of course!  This first peak should be a snap.  Just follow the road!

The American Dingo hit Song Dog Road, which started out heading SW, sort of the wrong direction.  However, after going up a long gentle slope, the road curved sharply to the E.  Lupe quickly reached a saddle where a less traveled road on the L trended NE.  Song Dog Road curved SE here, starting to head downhill.

About to set off on Song Dog Road. Photo looks SW.
At the first bend. Photo looks NE.
At the saddle. Song Dog Road goes R, and a side road goes L here. Peak 5017 (R). Photo looks ENE.

Which way, SPHP?

Take the side road to the L, Loopster.  Must say, I’m rather disappointed!

Why?  What’s wrong?

We’re already done with Song Dog Road, and you didn’t even hum a tune!

There’s a reason for that, SPHP!

Really, like what?

It’s broad daylight!  We Dingoes like to sing at night.  Should have brought me here when there’s a full moon!  I’d warble you up some real tunes then!

I see.  Didn’t think of that, but I suppose it makes sense.  Bad timing on my part.  If we don’t get back from Peak 5316 before dark, maybe we can come back here tonight for a Dingo concert?

In that case, keep an eye out for coyotes today, SPHP!

What for?

So I can invite them to chime in on the chorus!

Big concert tonight, if there’s a full moon! Hope you can stick around for it! On the side road leading to the N end of Peak 5017 (R). Photo looks NE.

The side road didn’t go all the way to the top of Peak 5017, passing below the N rim instead.  So Lupe left the road to climb up to the N high point, which wasn’t hard at all.  Before heading S for the true summit, she spent a few minutes checking out the views.

Peak 5208 (L of Center). Photo looks NNE over the Cold Springs Creek valley.
Twin Sisters Range Highpoint (L of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Peak 5017’s true summit was now a mere 250 yards away, an easy stroll across completely open prairie.

There’s the true summit of Peak 5017 (L) already! How easy is this? Photo looks S.

In nothing flat, Loopster was scoring her first peakbagging success of the day.  Rocks in a small group toward the SW edge of Peak 5017’s summit region were the highest points around.  A large portion of the southern Black Hills was on display, with distant glimpses of Wyoming to the SW, Nebraska to the S, and the prairies of western South Dakota to the E.

Although this wasn’t rugged territory, the panorama conveyed an overall sense of scenic spaciousness, the most pleasing views off to the SW toward Parker Peak (4,848 ft.) and Matias Peak (4,780 ft.).

Peak 5017 summit. Photo looks SW.
Parker Peak (Center) and Matias Peak (far R), both on the horizon. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking SE down Antelope Canyon.

The scene to the W was pleasant, but undramatic.  In the foreground was the same grassy ridge bordered with bits of crumbling limestone that Lupe had traveled on the side road she’d taken to get here.  Beyond the grassy region was a flat, forested plain, backed by slightly higher forested ridges in the distance.

Looking W.

The highest ground visible from Peak 5017 was to the N, yet a lack of any particularly sharp peaks served to create a feeling that something better was hidden beyond what could be seen from here.  The big, partly bald summit of Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.) was higher than anything else, and hinted at mountainous, rather than merely hilly, terrain.

Northeast Cicero Peak (far L). Photo looks NNE.

Only took 30 minutes to get up to Peak 5017, so there really wasn’t much reason to take any long break.  When SPHP looked into the backpack for the expectant American Dingo, that assessment was reinforced.

Criminy, Looper!  I didn’t bring the chocolate coconut bars!

What?  I saw you take some out of the box this morning!

Yeah, but I just threw them in a plastic sack.  Must still be sitting on the kitchen counter back home, along with the apples.

A lot of good that does us, SPHP!

Sorry about that, Loop!  Really am.  Care for some Taste of the Wild?

Maybe a little bit.  It’s not the same though.  Got any water to go with it?  Sort of dry.

Yes, I did bring water.  Here ya go!

No chocolate coconut bars!  I’ll be singing the blues at the concert tonight!

30 minutes on Peak 5017, and it was Onward, Puppy ho!  The Carolina Dog was on her way again.  Returning to the G6 by a much more direct route, she cut straight down Peak 5017’s N face from the side road.

Back on the side road after leaving Peak 5017. Photo looks SW.
We’ll head straight for the G6 (L) from here! Photo looks NW.

10:35 AM, Song Dog Road, back at the G6 –

We’re not driving closer to the next peak, SPHP?

Nope!  Peak 5316 is only 2.5 miles N of here, so we can just keep going on paw.

2.5 miles?  That’s it?  There goes the entire Dingo concert you wanted!  We’ll be back way before dark.

Dem’s da breaks, Loop.  Hate to miss out, but maybe I won’t.  Peak 5316 might take a lot longer than you think.  The region we’re going to travel through burned years ago.

So, lots of deadfall?

Yup, gonna be a mess, but who knows for how far?  

Soon enough, Lupe was crossing Cold Springs Creek, no great feat, since it was frozen stiff.  Ahead were the shattered burnt remains of a forest which had once covered the region near the now barren ridge SPHP intended to climb.

Crossing Cold Springs Creek. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe quickly reached the first deadfall.  A fair amount of big stuff, but it wasn’t as bad as SPHP had feared.  Winding around as needed, it was possible to avoid the worst of it without too much trouble.

The only real difficulty was going to be in getting above a line of limestone cliffs strung out along the ridge Loopster was approaching.  However, the cliffs weren’t very high, and it appeared there were breaks the American Dingo could take advantage of.  If that didn’t work, all she would have to do was stay more to the E (R), where the cliffs melted almost completely away.

The deadfall trek begins. Photo looks N.
Sometimes necessary to just go over stuff. Photo looks N.

Near the base of the ridge, Lupe came to a grassy region which must have been meadow all along, since there wasn’t any deadfall.  She found an old road going E/W, and followed it E a little way before turning N.

SPHP decided that the measly cliff line didn’t look so bad.  Loop headed right for the SE end of the ridge’s W lobe.  A steep climb among lots of small deadfall put Lupe at the base of a 10 foot cliff that was a deadfall mess itself.

At the cliffette. A 10 foot scramble up toward the R put Lupe on top. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe scrambled up with relative ease, while SPHP thrashed about trying to climb over or move dead branches.  Would have been a breeze minus the deadfall.  At any rate, SPHP soon joined Loopster on top.  Nice view looking back at Peak 5017 from here, and the deadfall situation to the N looked a bit better, at least for a little way.

Peak 5017 (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks S.
HP5100 (R). Photo looks N.

HP5100, the hill at the S end of the long ridge Lupe was about to follow N, was now in full view to the NE.  No need to go all the way to the top of it.  The topo map showed a trail W of HP5100 that would get Loop to the ridgeline farther N.

Staying toward the W, Lupe started N.  She found what might have been a remnant of the trail, and had a little luck following it, but soon lost it as huge quantities of deadfall overwhelmed any remaining traces.

Fortunately, the forest that had burned up here must not have been terribly old.  Most of the deadfall was only of moderate size instead of enormous tree trunks.  Even so, it took a wretched, time-consuming slog to get to the ridgeline N of HP5100.

No relief here!  Just more of the same ahead.

Same old, same old, but we’ve made it to the ridgeline! Photo looks NNE.

The ridge climbed steadily at a moderate to easy pace, as SPHP chugged N through the thicket.  Looper stuck close by since doing anything else would only vastly increase the amount of effort required.  Roaming any great distance was simply out.

Every now and then, Lupe reached a small patch of clear ground.  Then it was time for a short break.  Despite all the local ugliness, the largely unobstructed views were actually quite impressive.

HP5100 (R) with Peak 5017 beyond it. Twin Sisters Range (L). Photo looks SSE.

After a while, the ridge became less of a steady climb, and more of a succession of little hills.  A series of these high points appeared to the NW, where the ridge Lupe was on was about to merge with the next ridge to the W.  A number of green pines, somehow missed during the conflagration, beckoned from the high points farthest N.

Maybe Looper was about to get past the burn?  Wouldn’t that be nice!

Look! Live pines ahead! Photo looks NW.

Still took a while to get there.

At another break spot. Buffalo Gap (Center, straight up from Lupe’s ear) and Twin Sisters Range (R). Photo looks SE.
Could be worse! At least the rest of this stuff hasn’t fallen over yet! Photo looks NW.

Lupe finally reached the high points where the green pines were.  She was already at more than 5,200 feet elevation as she continued N over a couple of minor high spots.  Unfortunately, the hoped for end of the burn area, while in sight now, wasn’t anywhere close.

Off to the NW, though, something else was in sight, too.  A skinny, little ridge, oriented NW/SE and capped with limestone, stuck up above the immediately surrounding terrain.

It was in the right direction.  Was that Peak 5316?

Thar she blows! Peak 5316 is straight up from Loop. Photo looks NW.

Still a mile to go to get there, apparently a deadfall laden trek all the way.  Ahead, the terrain sloped gently down to a skinnier part of the ridge Lupe was on that connected to another high spot.  Instead of going straight across the skinny part, Loop roamed E a little way toward a somewhat grassier region to see what things looked like over there, getting a nice view of Peak 5208 in the process.

Peak 5208 (Center). Photo looks SE.

Heading NW back toward the skinny bridge to the N, Looper followed the brink of a line of limestone cliffs.  Suddenly, intense excitement!  Looking down, a herd of giant deers was racing away, having either heard or caught sight of SPHP snap, crackle, and popping through the deadfall.  All the Carolina Dog could do was stand up here with a commanding view and whine.

Elk in the valley to the NE with help from the telephoto lens.
Love the giant deers, but it’s on to Peak 5316! Skinny ridge just ahead! Photo looks N.

After crossing the skinny section, Lupe reached the high point at the end of a 5,200 foot contour extending over 0.5 mile SE from Peak 5316.  Poised on a chunk of white limestone, Loop took a final glance back at the territory to the SE.  From here, she could see the whole ridge leading over to the N end of Peak 5208, and the Booker Ranch valley N of it.

Booker Ranch valley (L), Peak 5208 (R). Photo looks SE.
Glancing S back across the skinny part of the ridge.

Still plenty of deadfall around as Lupe turned NW for Peak 5316, but it wasn’t as bad as earlier on.  In fact, the American Dingo found a faint road that helped tremendously until it curved SW over to another ridge.

Closing in on Peak 5316, Loop came to a ridge topped by a ragged line of limestone.  When it got too gnarly, she stayed SW of it.

Getting there! Peak 5316 (Center) is the high point ahead. Photo looks NW.
Peak 5316 (L). Photo looks NW.

The ragged limestone ridge played out.  Beyond it was a minor dip full of deadfall, but Lupe was soon climbing again.  Passing beneath a power line, she scrambled up onto the SE end of the broader limestone cap on Peak 5316.  More deadfall, of course!  Loop worked her way through it, and reached the marginally higher true summit near the NW end.

A cairn!  Quite a nice one.  Surprising, actually.  Lupe hopped aboard, accepting congratulations from SPHP on her peakbagging success.

Made it! On the Peak 5316 summit ridge! Photo looks NW.
Success! Photo looks ESE.
Wonder how many dead trees I had to jump over to get here? Must have been thousands!

Time for a break, the big one of the day.  Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap after munching some Taste of the Wild.  The higher forested hills to the N that she’d seen from Peak 5017 were much closer now, and hemmed in the views in that direction.  Everything to the S was wide open.

To the W were 2 similar flat-topped hills.  Loopster had been to the more distant one, Peak 5240, about a mile away, in 2017.  Fun to see it again!

Peak 5280 (L) and Peak 5240 (R, beyond Lupe). Photo looks WSW.

Peak 5316 is mighty nice, SPHP, but it’s hard to get fully into the spirit of things without a chocolate coconut bar!

Yep, no apples, no bars.  Life is tough, isn’t it?

Good chance we’ll live through these sufferings, though, SPHP!  I see a couple of easier ways back.  I can’t tell you how scintillating that long ridge trek to get here was, but it would sort of be nice not to have to leap over all those dead trees again.

Agreed, Looper.  What’cha got in mind?

Two options!  We could follow that power line S.  Hardly any deadfall under it.  Or we could go down that scenic valley, and cross over a single ridge into the next valley beyond.  Looks a lot easier down there!

Think I like Option 2 the best, Loop.  Thought we’d go explore the last little bit of Peak 5316’s NW ridge before we’re done.  We can swoop down into the valley from there!

Easy Option 1: Follow the power line back. Photo looks SE.
Easy Option 2: Go down to the deadfall-free valley. Photo looks SSW.

Clouds drifted by in the bright blue sky, and Lupe’s hour on Peak 5316 sailed away, too.  Almost over and done with, by the time the American Dingo returned to the summit cairn for a last look around.  Then it was off to explore the little stretch of ridge remaining to the NW.

Peak 5316’s NW ridge from the summit cairn. Photo looks NW.

More deadfall there, too, of course!  The whole trek had been chock full of it, so anything less would have been a disappointment.  A brief look at the beautifully forested hills to the N, a vision of what Peak 5316 must have been like not so awfully long ago, and the return to the G6 began.

Looking ESE back at the summit.
Maybe we’ll be back? Gotta be some squirrels in all those trees! Photo looks N.

The NW ridge curved W and sank into the pines.  Lupe followed it down to a saddle where she picked up a dirt road heading S into the Option 2 valley she’d seen from above.

Oh, it was all so easy down in the grassy valley!  Not a stick or stone to slow SPHP down one jot.  Before long, the Carolina Dog was following the road higher as it climbed the ridge to the S.

Peak 5316 (Center) from the valley. Photo looks N.

Once on top, Loop followed the road SW until she was close to the rim overlooking the next valley.  Deadfall covered the steep slopes, but the valley floor was all meadow with a dirt road running down the middle.

Oh, it’s beautiful! And so much faster than staying up on these ridges! Photo looks S.

The valley was wonderful, once Lupe got down to it!  An easy trek, and so many deer!  This valley was the source of Cold Spring Creek, but it wasn’t until Lupe reached the lower end that a clear-running trickle appeared.  Near the end, the valley curved SE and broadened out.  And there was Peak 5017, glowing in the late afternoon sunshine!

Not much farther now!

Peak 5017 (Center) near the end of the day. Photo looks SE.

4:11 PM, 50ºF, Song Dog Road – Well, that was it for Expedition No. 264.  The American Dingo hopped in the G6, SPHP turned the key, and the 4 mile drive back to Hwy 89 began.

An awful lot of deadfall to deal with today, but we still had a good time, didn’t we, Looper?

Sure did, SPHP!  That Option 2 route was fun and so easy with the roads and all the deer!  Definitely the way to go.

Indeed!  Went a little too well.  Got back so soon that now I’m going to miss out on your Dingo concert this evening.

We’re still on Song Dog Road, aren’t we?  Probably have time to warble you up a tune or two before we get back to the highway, if you want.  I could probably do that much, even if the moon isn’t up yet.

That sounds great, Loopster!  Warble away!

What would you like to hear, SPHP?  Beethoven’s 9th?  Led Zepplin’s Stairway to Heaven?

Oh, I had no idea it would be anything so elaborate!  Whatever you have in mind would be fine.

How about the Chocolate Coconut Bar Blues?

Peak 5316, Black Hills of South Dakota 2-2-21

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                    Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 199 – Twin Sisters Twice & Castle Rock (4-12-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

West Butte of the Sweetgrass Hills, Montana (8-17-20)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-16-20, early morning, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe streaked by, a newly-prized stick clenched in her teeth, dodging, weaving, returning again and again, defying SPHP to catch her while showing off just how fast and agile she was.

At least someone’s recovered from Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.)!

Oh, c’mon!  Aren’t you even going to try to catch me, SPHP?

Sure!  As soon as my paws aren’t sore.  Won’t win then, either, but at least I’ll be able to move.  Till then, that fabulous stick is all yours, Loopster!

Clearly disappointed, perhaps disgusted, the Carolina Dog dropped the stick.

Phooey!  You’re no fun, SPHP!  When are your paws going to toughen up?  You’re always whining about them these days.

As soon as these boots are broken in, I’ll be fine again.

Think those boots are breaking in your paws in instead.

Heh.  It’s been a slow process, that’s for sure.  C’mon, I’m going to soak my paws in the river for a little bit before we head out.  Numb sounds good.  Maybe that squirrel that was here yesterday is still around?

The mere mention of “squirrel” and Lupe was racing off to check out those trees over by the river access point.  Sadly, no luck.  The squirrel must have been sleeping in.  The river was beautiful, though, and the soaking did SPHP’s paws a lot of good.  Happily, those paws didn’t look nearly as bad as they’d felt.

8-16-20, 10:12 AM, Hwy 200, Clearwater River

Montana sure has a lot of beautiful rivers, doesn’t it, SPHP?

This part certainly does, Loop!  Getting to be big fans of all these nice river access points, aren’t we?

They do help break up the trip!  By the way, where are we going, anyway?

West Butte (6,983 ft.) of the Sweetgrass Hills, Looper!  Remember those big hills we always see off in the distance E of I-15 when we’re on the way to Canada?

The ones you’re always wondering whether they are in the United States or Canada?

Yup.  Those hills.  Well, it turns out they are in the US.  West Butte is the highest one, so guess what, Lucky Dingo?  You’re going to get to climb it, if we can figure out the access situation.

Are we going to Canada, too?

Unfortunately, no.  Not this year.  Crying shame, but the border is closed.  West Butte is so close to Canada, though, that you’re going to get to see it!

Not quite the same, SPHP.

I know.  Not the same at all.  Sorry ’bout that, but it’s the best we can do in the Year of Perfect Vision.

Enjoying a romp along the Clearwater River.

Montana not only had lovely rivers with great access points to explore, but dinosaurs, too!  In Choteau, Lupe visited a snazzy pink one.

Dingoes & Dinosaurs! What more could you want?

3:20 PM, Hwy 343 at Oilmont – Coming down out of the big mountains had been a mistake.  Hotter ‘n blazes on the prairie!  Lupe parted leaping billows of the Grasshopper Sea as she sniffed her way up a little rise at the E end of what more or less amounted to the ghost town of Oilmont.

Miles across the parched golden fields of August, the Sweetgrass Hills were in sight, stretched out in 3 isolated groups like American sentries guarding against unexpected invasion from Canada.

West Butte (6983 ft.) was closest to both Oilmont and Canada, and had the support of lower hills to the NW.  Nearly 20 miles ESE of West Butte, stood the similar, only slightly lower East Butte group containing both Mount Royal (6,914 ft.) and Mount Brown (6,958 ft.).  Between these strongholds, the lone cone of Gold Butte (6,512 ft.) held the otherwise undefended center of the line.

West Butte from Hwy 343 near Oilmont. Photo looks NE.
Gold Butte (L), Mount Brown (Center) and Mount Royal (R). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Driving E from Oilmont, the search for decent West Butte access began.  Supposed to be available from the SW.  12 miles E of I-15 came a L (N) turn off the pavement onto Suphellan Road, a good, wide gravel road.  Miles of dust, but after a few minor jogs and a couple of intersections, Lupe was getting close.

West Butte from Nine Mile Road. Photo looks NE.

By now, Suphellan Road had led into Nine Mile Road, which worked it’s way NE.  West Butte’s lower SW slopes were only 0.5 mile away when a junction was reached with Coal Mine Road.  Private property here, but further investigation revealed a little blue sign 0.1 mile E.

Bingo!  Dingo!

At the intersection of Nine Mile Road and Coal Mine Road. Photo looks NE.
Gold Butte from the N side of Coal Mine Road 0.1 mile E of the junction with Nine Mile Road. Photo looks SE.
Official public access confirmation!

Farther E, Coal Mine Road led to a private ranch.  Turning back around and exploring it W, the road dipped into a draw containing a ford of a rocky creek that was almost dry now, but might be an issue during wet weather.  Coal Mine Road continued NW, winding through some of the lower Sweetgrass Hills.  Clearly, no better access from this direction.

West Butte (R) and the Sweetgrass Hills from the WNW.

8-16-20, 5:55 PM, I-15 at Sunburst – Still 96ºF!  Full scale retreat was called for.  Luxury was on the agenda, air-conditioned luxury all night long!  The Carolina Dog sure didn’t object.  The Comfort Inn, the finest motel in Shelby, was nearly vacant with the Covid-19 panic going on.  Stretching out on the big soft bed, Lupe heaved a sigh of delight.  SPHP enjoyed a swim in the small, unoccupied pool.  Not another soul!  Sort of like Loopster and SPHP owned the joint.

Good thing, we don’t own it, Loop!  Must be losing money hand over fist, if it’s this empty during tourist season!

Star Wars!?  Change the channel, SPHP!  Maybe they’ve got Lassie or Rin Tin Tin?

8-17-20, 10:26 AM, 81ºF, SW of West Butte – SPHP parked the G6 a few hundred feet E of the junction of Nine Mile Road and Coal Mine Road.  High clouds and hazy out.  Plenty warm, but not sweltering, at least not yet.  Lupe trotted a little farther E along Coal Mine Road to the blue sign before heading out into the flat field leading to West Butte.

Starting for West Butte. Photo looks NE.

Surprisingly, thankfully, no cactus.  Looper crossed the Grasshopper Sea without encountering any.  Entering a shallow drainage, she followed it higher until she was almost at the base of West Butte’s first big grassy slope.  Leaving the drainage, up she went!

Down in the drainage. Photo looks NNE.
Warm dry day, long steep slope, and a resulting bad case of big pink tongueitis.

The long grassy slope got pretty dang steep, but the Carolina Dog kept at it.  Climbing hundreds of feet higher, she eventually reached a windswept tree that was 90% dead.

At the windswept tree. Photo looks NW.
Sweetgrass Hills W of West Butte from near the windswept tree. Photo looks NW.

Not too far above this tree the rate of climb slowed a bit.  Forests and rock fields prevalent on West Butte’s upper slopes were in sight again.  Lupe kept heading for them.

Beyond the steepest part of the climb already. Photo looks NE.
Closing in on the trees. Photo looks NNE.

Shortly before reaching the trees, Lupe came to the first rock slides.  A path crossed these rocks angling up toward the NNE.  Following this path higher, the rocks were loose and relatively small, yet still large enough to provide decent support.  For such rocky terrain, this was easy going!

On the first path below the forest. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing the first big scree slope. Photo looks NNE.
Looking back to the SSW.

The path soon led into the trees.  Overhead, the cloud cover was getting thinner.  Patches of blue sky were beginning to appear, and the day was getting warmer.  Enjoying the shade, Lupe and SPHP took a water break and a long breather.

Relaxing in the shade.

Resuming her climb, Loopster went right up the forested slope for a while, but eventually got far enough NNE to emerge from the trees again.  More paths angled up another scree slope.

Out in the open again. Photo looks N.
Looking up an unscathed scree slope the trail went by. Photo looks ENE.
Another look back. Getting higher! Photo looks SW.

The scree slopes went on and on.  Numerous paths were available to choose from.  The Carolina Dog passed through another smaller stretch of forest.  After that, she came only to scattered trees or bushes.  The higher Loop got, the rockier West Butte seemed to be.

Continuing higher. Photo looks NNE.
Near the end. Photo looks NNE.

For a long way, it was just more and more of the same sort of thing.  Lupe followed whatever path seemed handiest up the scree.  If anything, the slope of the mountain was getting steeper, but at last that changed.  As the terrain began to level out, the rocks disappeared.  Lupe reached a grassy slope.  A band of trees was off to the N, but Loop turned E heading for the summit.

Almost there! Photo looks E.

8-17-20, 1:17 PM, West Butte – The top of West Butte (6,983 ft.) was a roomy plain, flat in the center, edges rounded in all directions.  Toward the SE stood a tall, well-constructed cairn, the only significant feature up here.  A rusty can perched near the top of the cairn, and a red metal box and a plaque sat next to one another along the base.

Almost everywhere, yellow fields 2,500 feet lower stretched to murky horizons blurred by a smoky haze.  No sign at all of the mighty peaks of Glacier National Park far to the W, which might have been visible on a clear day.  Instead, the eye was drawn SE where Gold Butte (6,512 ft.), Mount Brown (6,958 ft.) and Mount Royal (6,914 ft.) were close enough to be on display.

Lupe’s first thought was to seek out the shade of the cairn.

The big view from West Butte on a hazy day! Mount Brown (far L) & Mount Royal (L). Gold Butte (R). Photo looks SE.
By the summit cairn.
Since I’m wearing a fur coat, SPHP, I’ve got dibs on the shade!

While Looper spent her time panting, SPHP opened the red metal box.  Full of registry notebooks and assorted junk.  Lots of people make it up here!  Way too many entries to read them all, although SPHP did take a look at some of them.  The last entry was only 4 days ago.  SPHP added Lupe’s name to the list.

The rusty can on top of the cairn contained a collection of small white stones.  For what conceivable purpose, SPHP couldn’t imagine unless Hansel and Gretel came up here from time to time.

The plaque was more interesting.  Placed by A. Taft, whose last ascent was over 8 years ago on 7-22-12, the plaque was entitled “You know you’re home when you see The Hills”.  Seven “Sonnemaker Homestead Children who grew up in the shadow of The Sweetgrass Hills” were listed.  All of them had been born between 1910 and 1924.

Not too likely any of them were still alive today.

Sonnemaker Homestead Children plaque.

100 years and more since most of the Sonnemaker children had been born.  A sobering thought.  Lupe’s name was on a mountain, too, far away in the Bighorns in Wyoming.  Not on a plaque, just made out of loose rocks.  Been a couple of years since Loopster had seen it.  SPHP wondered if it was still there?

Most of the cloud cover had burned away by now.  Gotta be at least 85ºF, although a 10 mph S breeze provided some relief.  SPHP had brought a White Claw raspberry-flavored spiked sparkling water in the backpack, and proceeded to drink the entire thing.  Between that and the Benadryl taken earlier to control hay fever, SPHP was soon left in a lethargic state of wooziness.  Using the backpack for a pillow, with the old Alaska cap pulled down for shade, SPHP tried to nap.

Didn’t work.  The heat was oppressive, the hard ground uncomfortable, and SPHP wasn’t really tired, just sort of drugged.  Still, SPHP laid there long enough for the Carolina Dog to start wondering what was wrong?  Lupe came over to check for some sign of life.

Still among the living, SPHP?  Or have you met your Sonnemaker?

Eh.  Not yet, Loop.  Want more water?  Bet you do!  Here, ya go!

Thanks, SPHP!  What now?

Well, I suppose we ought to take some more photos.  A shame it’s so hazy.  Montana always seems to start filling up with smoke this time of year.  Could see forever from here on a clear day.

The haze isn’t that bad, SPHP!  At least we can still see the rest of the Sweetgrass Hills.  Let’s get those photos then head back to the Comfort Inn!

Hah!  So that’s you’re plan is it?

Hotter ‘n blazes again, in case you hadn’t noticed, SPHP.

Yeah, but we’ve got another card up our sleeve for tonight, Sweet Dingo!  But c’mon, let’s finish up.

Gold Butte (Center). Photo looks SE.
Gold Butte with lots of help from the telephoto lens and hindrance from the smoke.
Mount Brown (L) and Mount Royal (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Which way is Canada, SPHP?  You said yesterday that we would see it from here.

Less than 5 miles straight N, Loopster!

Canada was out there, alright.  A featureless plain North Dakota flat.  Details, if there were any, couldn’t be made out.

Canada from West Butte. Photo looks N.

Oh, I hope Canada is what you have up your sleeve, SPHP!  We’ve had so many fabulous adventures there!

8-17-20, 2:20 PM, West Butte – The traditional summit hour had flashed by.  Lupe stood by the cairn for the last time.  Sadly, West Butte was going to be as close to Canada as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would get this year.

Looper was happy, though!  SPHP had brought plenty of water, and West Butte had been fun.  Surely, the next time the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood did go to Canada, she would see West Butte again and remember this day.

And I’ll remember the Comfort Inn, too, SPHP!  Don’t forget that!

West Butte summit region. Photo looks WNW.
Happy Lupe on West Butte.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The descent began.  Lupe headed back down the grassy slope on the W side of the summit.  Took only a few minutes to get back to the trails leading down the long scree slopes.  Loopster’s return route was nearly identical to the one she had taken up, although she did stray somewhat farther W after reaching the windswept 90% dead tree.

Starting down the W slope. Photo looks W.
Descending the upper scree slopes. Photo looks SW.
Approaching the forest. Photo looks SW.
Wildflowers on the lower slopes.

8-17-20, 4:39 PM, at the G6 along Coal Mine Road – Ugh!  96ºF again!  A 15 mph wind blew out of the W like a furnace.  Time to crank up the G6 and enjoy some serious AC!  After taking Nine Mile Road and Hwy 552, SPHP turned S on I-15 at Sunburst.

What a strange year!  This close to Canada, I-15 was all but vacant.  Just like the Comfort Inn, as nearly the sole users, Lupe and SPHP practically owned the road as the G6 sped S through a beastly hot haze permitting no hint of the tremendous peaks hidden to the W.

No Comfort Inn tonight!  Along Hwy 89 SE of Great Falls, came a brief stop at the Al Buck Memorial Park.  Twilight was deepening as SPHP let Looper out to cool her paws off and enjoy her traditional drink from the cold, clear spring that gushed out of the mountainside.  Then it was S again, up into the Little Belt Mountains.

9:50 PM, 62ºF, Kings Hill Pass – Comfortably cool!  The oppressive heat of the Grasshopper Sea infesting the parched yellow fields surrounding the Sweetgrass Hills was already just a memory.  Yet today’s pilgrimage in the Year of Perfect Vision to the sunny summit of West Butte, where an American Dingo had peered through the murk into the fabled, and now forbidden land of Canada would not be forgotten.

Lovely Alberta, gorgeous British Columbia, the Canadian Rockies, the mighty Yukon, misty Northwest Territories, and gleaming Alaska!  Three thousand miles N, summer was weakening, dying.  The empty tundra of the North Slope was already a land of gold awaiting the silent pristine white of winter.  Ever so far away, reds, oranges, and yellows were spreading S beneath the pale, darkening Arctic sky.

Today’s dim vision from lofty West Butte had been a mere glimpse in the direction of glories Lupe knew lay beyond.  Glories held for the moment in the mind’s eye only, but they were real, they were out there.  Someday!

Yes, someday the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would return.

West Butte of the Sweetgrass Hills, Montana 8-17-20

West Butte access:  From I-15, take Exit 389 at Sunburst.  Head E on paved Hwy No. 552.  The pavement ends 9 miles E at a 4 way intersection with crossroad Pederson Road.  Keep going straight E, now on unsigned Nine Mile Road, which is good gravel.  4 miles from this intersection, turn N (L) at a “T” intersection with Suphellan Road.  Wind N and E another 4 miles (still on Nine Mile Road) to the junction with Coal Mine Road.  Public access is 0.1 mile E at the blue sign on the N (L) side of Coal Mine Road.  Good pavement/gravel all the way.  Any vehicle can do this with ease.

Links:

Next Adventure                             Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.