Day 21 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!
7:40 AM, 41ºF, Cascade Lakes Highway, Dutchman Flats – Luck of the Dingo, a miracle! A minor one, anyway. Twice during the wee hours, there’d been rain. Not much. Only light rain for 20 minutes the second time, and that was the big deluge. Then pre-dawn, Orion had been gleaming near the E horizon.
And now? Mount Bachelor (9.065 ft.) stood against a sky containing only a trace of the thick smoke that had completely hidden it when Lupe arrived yesterday evening.
Wooo-hooo, Loopster! We are so extremely lucky! Gonna be alright! Thar she blows!
Fantastic news, SPHP! No trip to the coast today after all. But with a name like “Bachelor”, that mountain’s got to be a dude, not a she.
Hah! Bachelor isn’t what I’m talking about, Loop. Look over there! That’s why we’re here!
9 miles NW, capped by a wispy lenticular cloud, a massive volcano was in sight. Hadn’t been visible at all yesterday evening, but there she was.
Wow! That’s where we’re going, SPHP?
Yup. You’re in for a real slog today, Looper! Nearly 4,900 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles from Devils Lake. Most definitely a she-mountain, too! That’s South Sister (10,358 ft.)!
9:02 AM, 46ºF, Devils Lake trailhead – Surprisingly little activity, but lots of vehicles around. Over at the campground, people were stirring as Lupe set out on South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. Boardwalk bridges got her over a couple of streams in a flat region before reaching Cascade Lakes Highway.
Crossing the highway, the American Dingo began an incredible journey.
Immediately N of the highway, the trail was flat as it ran along the W bank of a lovely stream. However, a steady climb N up a forested valley quickly commenced. The stream soon wandered farther E. Lupe went over to see it tumbling down mossy stones, and get a drink.
Returning to the trail, the climb resumed. The stream soon disappeared entirely, whether up a side drainage or simply underground, SPHP never really knew. Little to see here except trees, but the trail was in excellent condition, no obstacles at all, and super easy to follow.
As the Carolina Dog continued higher, the valley began to narrow. Half way up, just beyond the narrowest point, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 leveled out, becoming sandy as Lupe entered a clearing where the valley widened out again.
The flat clearing was a welcome respite, but the march higher resumed as soon as Lupe got beyond it. Trail No. 36 began winding up steeper slopes than before, switchbacks helping to limit the rate of climb.
Big rock formations eventually appeared off to the E. After getting fairly close to them, the trail turned NW. Looper had already gained a bunch of elevation. Encouragingly, it was beginning to look like she was about to climb out of the upper end of the valley.
After reaching the NW side of the valley, the trail switchbacked NE. Soon it became clear that the American Dingo really was about to escape the valley! The trail turned N. From the top of a little rise, a magnificent sight – South Sister (10,358 ft.)!
Directly ahead, the trail sloped gently down to a junction.
At the junction, Phase 1 of Lupe’s journey to South Sister, the 1.5 mile long trek up the long valley, was complete. The route she needed to take from here was completely obvious, just keep heading N for South Sister. Trail No. 17.1 offered other possible choices, either NE down to Moraine Lake, or W for parts unknown.
Continuing N from the junction, Phase 2 of Lupe’s South Sister journey began. This was by far the easiest section of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. A broad path wound through low hills of gritty volcanic soil that supported only scant vegetation other than scattered stands of pines. Elevation gain was minimal. In many places, the trail was nearly flat. The Carolina Dog even came to short downhill sections, although they didn’t amount to much.
As the pines became scarcer, the increasingly open views became more deserty. In her fur coat, Lupe got hot, and often wanted to enjoy a shady rest whenever the trail got close to the trees. It was all extremely scenic, with South Sister nearly always looming ahead. The jagged peaks of Broken Top (9,175 ft.) were also often in view off to the NE.
Progress was fast and easy, with only the short water and rest breaks to cool off in the shade slowing things down. As Loopster rapidly closed the remaining gap to the base of the mountain, South Sister looked more and more daunting based on sheer size alone. At one point, the Carolina Dog passed another trail on the R that came up from Moraine Lake.
For quite a long way, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 stayed near the E edge of the huge flat ridge Lupe was traveling N. Sometimes she enjoyed views down into the canyon to the E. From a few spots, it was possible to catch a glimpse of Moraine Lake. Hard to think about that, though, when South Sister was getting closer with every step. The mountain drew the eye like a magnet.
The trail eventually began drifting NW, away from the canyon which it was now essentially past. South Sister’s summit region vanished from view, hidden by the mountain’s lower slopes. Phase 3 was beginning, start of the ascent.
How much higher do we have to go, SPHP?
About 3,500 feet, Loop, over 2 miles.
Sounded like a lot. Only 1,400 feet gained so far? Felt like it had been a long march already.
The trail began climbing again. Slowly at first, but more steeply as Lupe went on.
For a while, trees were fairly numerous. No. 36 even wound through short stretches of forest. Higher up, trees were scarcer. The trail ran N some distance W of a rocky ridge capped by a line of cliffs. This ridge was considerably higher, but Lupe was gaining on it.
The ground was mostly gritty, loose soil. No doubt volcanic. Good-sized rocks were part of the mix, but the terrain wasn’t super rocky.
So far, Lupe had seen only a few people, a large group way back at the very start, and a couple near the upper end of the long valley that had camped at Moraine Lake last night. However, as the trail steepened, Lupe began meeting more and more people on their way down.
Those who had made it to the summit had been disappointed. The top of the mountain had been shrouded in fog. No views at all.
The sky over South Sister was a beautiful, deep blue now, though. Seemed like a perfect day!
Hah! Looks like the late Dingo is going to get the worm this time, Loop!
Worm! I’ll have you know, I’m not climbing this beast for worms, SPHP! This monster ought to merit several chocolate coconut bars.
Oh, my gosh, Looper! I forgot to bring any! I do have Taste of the Wild for you. Sorry, but that’s gonna be it.
No chocolate coconut bars? Didn’t seem right at all. Taste of the Wild was nutritious, but like cake minus icing. Chocolate coconut icing to be precise! Nothing to be done about it. A miffed Dingo trudged onward, trying to make the best of it. SPHP plodded along behind.
The mountain was getting steep. Looking back during SPHP’s breathers, Loop could see Devils Hill (7,080 ft.) and Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.). She was also seeing evidence that this day might not be so perfect after all. Miles away, a wall of smoke or fog was now visible to the S and W.
A light breeze was blowing out of the SW. Not good. SPHP kept an eye on the situation. Trouble seemed to be approaching, but quite slowly.
C’mon, Looper! Let’s keep moving as much as possible. Afraid your Luck of the Dingo might run out on us.
Fine, SPHP, but I don’t think I’m the holdup here!
A line of trees stood along the upper rim of a really steep slope. Despite the urgency of some need for speed, SPHP only managed to plod along at a snail’s pace. Near the top, loose soil gave way to a series of small, solid rock ledges. Once up to where the trees were, a gray hill was visible off to the NE.
That hill was Nipple Point (8,600 ft.). The trail looped clear around the E side of it before turning NW.
Beyond Nipple Point, the trail ascended a long slope of very loose gray scree. At the top of this climb, Lupe reached a saddle SW of a big hill. An awesome sight was ahead!
Still 1,500 feet higher, South Sister’s rust red dome towered beautifully above what remains of the Lewis Glacier, a turquoise meltwater pond nestled below it.
To the NW, quite a few hikers were visible coming down along the edge of a colorful ridge of pumice overlooking the glacier and turquoise tarn. Several more were relaxing right here at the saddle. Still more than 150 feet higher, Lewis Glacier Peak (9,017 ft.) was immediately NE.
A rest break was taken at the saddle. However, the American Dingo couldn’t linger long. The wall of smoke or fog approaching from the SW suddenly seemed much closer now. Clouds were increasingly starting to hang around the top of South Sister before sailing off to the NE. As soon as SPHP could summon the energy to do so, Lupe resumed her ascent.
Early on, Lupe passed a line of boulders strung out along the crest of the ridge. Beyond the boulders, she eventually worked high enough to gaze down on the Lewis Glacier slowly, inexorably, melting away in the sun.
The scenery was fantastic! Even the ground was fascinating. Loopster climbed through distinct zones of red, yellow, grey, and black volcanic soils. Meanwhile, although skies were often still blue over South Sister, the wall of smoke and fog was steadily closing in. A procession of hikers was coming down the mountain. SPHP wondered where they had all started from this morning?
The weary trudge higher went on and on. Can’t stop! Not for more than a moment or two to gasp for air. The top of the mountain seemed to get closer only at a snail’s pace. People streamed by. Everyone was heading down. They were all in great spirits! These climbers had been at the top when the sky was blue and the views were incredible.
Whether or not Lupe could get up there in time to enjoy those views still hung in the balance.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Angling NW, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 left the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier. Steep, although perhaps not quite as steep as before. Loopster met the last few stragglers coming down the mountain. At last, it finally started to look like the top couldn’t be much farther!
Heh. Farther than it looked. Lupe kept climbing. She seemed to be only a few hundred feet from the top, yet more mountain kept appearing.
Doomed! The wall of fog arrived, and the world disappeared.
2:55 PM, 52ºF, South Sister (10,358 ft.), S rim – Borne on a breeze now 10 mph out of the SW, fog streamed by as the rate of climb diminished. Near the end, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 turned NNE. Fortunately, the fog was intermittent. As Lupe crossed a plain of red cinders, a small ridge of wild-looking rock was ahead. Reaching it half an hour after the fog first hit, the American Dingo passed a small cairn.
Two people remained here, standing in a gray gloom along the edge of an enchanting, vaguely threatening, prehistoric scene revealed partially and only momentarily during sudden breaks in the cloud. They waved, but said nothing. SPHP waved back, then went with Lupe off to the W to take shelter from the rising wind among rocks of the volcanic ridge.
The ridge was higher toward the NW. Between here and there, a cool fog streamed almost constantly out of the SW through a sizable gap. Despite the fog, Lupe could usually see at least part of an enormous crater before her. A glacier within sloped down from the W, meltwater trickling from its toe gathering in small pools below.
Every now and then, fog quit coming through the gap. Then suddenly, the Carolina Dog would be in brilliant sunshine as the crater began to clear. Patches of blue sky, and much more of the crater were revealed. Occasionally, the true summit could be seen almost directly opposite Lupe’s position way over along the NE rim.
Most of the time, though, fog hid everything that wasn’t close. For nearly an hour, Lupe spent most of her time curled up on SPHP’s lap, watching fog stream through the gap. South Sister’s crater felt primeval, wild and cold, like a hidden frozen piece of the world’s ancient dangerous past.
A few latecomers arrived shortly after Lupe did. None stayed long, or ventured over toward the true summit, although one couple vanished into the fog off to the E for a little while. Most stayed only a few minutes before turning around and heading back down. One woman reacted with shock and dismay. The entire crater used to be filled with snow and ice! Even though Lupe and SPHP were amazed, what remained was evidently pitiful in comparison to what had once been.
Actually, I’m shocked, too, Loop. Never expected this!
Why not, SPHP? South Sister is a volcano! You said so yourself. What were you expecting?
Yeah, I know. Just never really thought about it, Loopster. Since South Sister looks like a big red dome from a distance, I assumed the whole thing would be like that. A gentle stroll to a vast, featureless, rounded summit.
Glad it isn’t, SPHP! A real volcanic crater with a glacier! Way better!
If anything, the weather seemed to be deteriorating. The wind blew harder, more and more fog streamed by. Fewer, shorter, brief episodes of sunshine. SPHP began to worry. South Sister was losing the battle with the fog. Finally, though, a break came. Suddenly, almost the entire crater cleared. Another rare moment when South Sister’s true summit was in view again!
C’mon, Loop! Now’s our chance!
Partially revived by the long rest, Loopster leapt to her paws and began following a well-worn use trail counter-clockwise around the crater.
Along the E rim, conditions varied wildly. A gentle breeze beneath blue skies one moment, 30 seconds later, a cold, gray gale. Pausing to brace against the wind, Lupe surged forward whenever it let up.
Near the true summit, the ridgeline was dominated by wild, jagged rock. Well below the top, Lupe picked her way through a geological jumble utilizing a maze of use trails. Once through the worst of it, she climbed to a bench only slightly below the highest rocks, discovering a survey benchmark with an arrow.
The true summit was a short, narrow ridge with steep drops along both sides. A knob at the S end was the absolute high point. Lupe couldn’t quite get to it, and wouldn’t have had room enough to sit up there, even if she could have reached it, but she did scramble up onto rocks only marginally lower 10 feet away.
4:07 PM, 38ºF, South Sister, true summit – Fog streamed past. Now 20 mph, the wind was cold. Alone in a gray world, way up at the top of mighty South Sister, Lupe stood like a champion, waiting for the next break that SPHP hoped and promised would soon arrive.
It did. Not totally, or for long, but a partially blue sky did reappear. SPHP quickly took the shot. Close enough for Dingo work!
Descending, Lupe lingered near the true summit only 5 or 10 minutes longer. Conditions weren’t all that pleasant, and fog soon returned.
Lupe was halfway back to the S rim when the situation suddenly took a turn for the worse. Dense fog swept in on a frigid 30 mph gale. Even the trail vanished from view. Whiteout! Must stop.
This is terrible, SPHP! We’ve over-stayed our welcome! Keep going!
Can’t! Can’t see a thing! Stay close, Loop, or you’ll get lost!
Was a storm moving in? The ferocity of the attack was numbing. Lupe huddled at SPHP’s feet. Hands were freezing. Seemed interminable, but couldn’t have been more than a few minutes. The worst was over. Still in the fog, but suddenly the trail reappeared.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
4:33 PM, South Sister, S rim – An hour and 38 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again by the little cairn marking where South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 reached the S rim. Something had changed when that ferocious blast went through. The air was colder. No more glimpses of blue sky, or even of South Sister’s crater. Lupe would never see it again.
A long way back. Definitely time to go. A last glance N into the fog where the crater should have been, and Loop started down.
Progress was great! So much easier going down! Lupe trotted along a path of loose, red cinder in an otherwise gray world. Losing hundreds of feet of elevation, she was already getting close to where the trail reached the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier before she escaped the cloud and could see again.
Exhausted, yet the evening return was amazing and fun! South Sister’s summit never did escape the cloud again, but beauty was all around. Incredibly, Lupe had it all to herself, seeing no one at all. The evening gloam was well advanced by the time Carolina Dog reached the deserted trailhead near Devils Lake. (8:09 PM, 57ºF)
Alright, SPHP! We did it! Can please I have a chocolate coconut bar now?
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GPS Track by Ben Sidhom (10-13-18)
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