Mather Peaks, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 2: Base Camp to the Summit & Beyond! (9-27-21)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorns!

9:02 AM, 50ºF, base camp 1.75 miles SE of Mather Peaks

Why take down the tiny house, SPHP?  We aren’t giving up, are we?

Nope.  Feeling better now, Loop.  Decided we might want to gamble after all, and won’t be able to do that if we don’t bring everything with us.

Gamble on what, SPHP?

A loop route, Loopster!  After Mathers today, Peak 12328 tomorrow, then down to Florence Pass, and back past Gunboat and Mistymoon Lakes.

Oh, the long route!  That would be wonderful!  I’d love to see Florence Pass and all the lakes again.

Me too, Loop, but I don’t know if it will work.  Think it will be OK, but we’ll be in a bit of a pickle, if we can’t make it down to Florence Pass.  Anyway, none of that matters until we tag Mathers.  So, onward!  Puppy ho!

Conditions were perfect last night, yet it had been a restless one.  SPHP’s turn had come to wake up queasy in the wee hours, prompting questions about this entire operation.  Fortunately, the 3 hour bug had faded away uneventfully.  No ill effects, other than causing SPHP to sleep in a bit.

Finally ready, SPHP now hoisted the pack and strapped in.  Lupe set off heading NE.  Sort of the wrong direction, Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.) was NW, but the plan was to get up to where Lupe could take a peek E down at the Frozen Lakes, then follow Mather’s nearly 1.75 mile long SE ridge over HP11904 and HP11813 to the summit.

Ready to leave base camp. Photo looks NE.

Looked easy from afar, but it only took the Carolina Dog a few minutes to exit base camp’s grassy region and get into the rocks.  Progress slowed tremendously, although she still seemed to be getting somewhere.  An hour later, SPHP wasn’t so sure.  The view wasn’t changing much, the ridge ahead magically remaining always about the same distance away.

Into the talus. Photo looks NE.

Holy moly, Looper!  How much farther can it be?  Maybe base camp wasn’t as high as I thought it was?  This was supposed to be quick and easy!

Quick and easy!  Who told you that, SPHP?

No one.  I just assumed it would be.  Doesn’t look far or steep at all on the topo map.

Well, we’ll get there, SPHP!

Not sure this side excursion is worth it, Loop.  We’ve got miles of this stuff to go through today!  How badly do you want to see the Frozen Lakes?

Would be sweet, of course, SPHP, but Mather Peaks is highest priority.  Want to cut and run on Frozen Lakes?

Run?  If only we could!  But, yeah, I think we better skip the lakes.  Let’s head straight for HP11904.

Turning toward HP11904 (Center). Photo looks NW.

HP11904?  Hah!  Fat chance!  Even that wasn’t happening.  After a long, slow trek, Lupe managed to reach the upper S slopes, but the endless scramble among the talus was dreadful work, and the situation didn’t look one bit better higher up.  Was there really any benefit to be gained from the effort required to get to the top?  Didn’t seem like it.

On the S slopes of HP11904. Photo looks NW.

Gah!  This is ridiculous, Loop!  New plan!

I’m all ear’s, SPHP!

Not entirely, Looper, but you do have big ones.

Plan C, SPHP!  What is it?

Plan C?  This is Plan C: No preconceived ideas or routes.  Forget HP11904, forget HP11813, forget the SE ridge!  Just take whatever seems to be the path of least resistance in the general direction of Mather Peaks.

Pure genius, SPHP!  No one else could ever conceive such a brilliant plan!

Mocked by a Dingo!  Well, it ain’t the first time.  Onward!  Puppy ho!

Hardly was such a thing as a path of least resistance, but to the extent that there was one, it was well below Mather Peaks’ SE ridge.  Gradually losing elevation, the American Dingo worked her way WNW trying to make maximum use of rare patches of vegetation where momentary bursts of speed were possible.

Plan C did help some.  Definitely better than Plans A or B!  The going was generally at least somewhat easier.  Every now and then, Lupe reached flat spots where it was possible to get comfortable for a few minutes.

During these rest breaks, the Carolina Dog enjoyed fabulous views of Peak 12080, Darton Peak (12,275 ft.), Bighorn Peak (12,324 ft.) and Lost Twin Lakes Peak (12,015 ft.) back to the S.

Making slow, but significant progress on the haphazard Plan C route. Photo looks W.
Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (L of Center), Bighorn Peak (R of Center), and Lost Twin Lakes Peak (R). Photo looks SSE.

Progress remained slow, but better than it had been higher up.  Short bursts of speed were occasionally possible whenever Lupe came to stretches of tundra that linked, or nearly did.  However, the next big batch of talus to contend with was always near.

Persistence paid off, though.  It eventually became clear that Loopster was finally closing in on Mather Peaks’ E summit.

Getting closer! Mather Peaks W summit (L), E summit (R). Photo looks NW.

Time to start climbing again!  Angling more toward the NW, Lupe got close to the SE ridgeline, but didn’t actually reach it until arriving at a flat area at the base of the E summit.

A vertical rock here was suspiciously reminiscent of the vampire Lupe had seen yesterday evening.  Passing a nearby outcropping of black rock, Loop entered a talus-filled valley that ran WNW up toward the summit.

Near the top of the SE ridge. Darton Peak (far R). Photo looks SE.
At the base of Mather Peaks’ E (true) summit. Suspicious boulder (L), obviously cursed black rock outcropping (R). Photo looks NW.
Same spot, looking SE. HP11904 (far L), Darton Peak (far R).
Starting up the talus valley. Photo looks NW.

The talus valley was longer than it appeared from below.  Fortunately, it wasn’t actually all talus.  Partway up, relatively open lanes extended the rest of the way up to the base of a short, steep scramble toward what had to be the top of the mountain.

On easier terrain partway up the talus valley. E summit (Center). Photo looks WNW.
At the base of the final scramble. Mather Peaks W summit (far L), E summit (R). Photo looks WNW.
Scrambling toward the top. Photo looks NW.

2:59 PM, 60ºF, Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.) E (true) summit – Lupe came up at the ESE end of a roomy plain of talus that rose after a dip toward the true summit at the far NW end.  Would only take a couple of minutes to get there, but first she turned to gaze back down Mather Peaks’ SE ridge.  HP11904 was easily identifiable nearly 1.75 mile away.

The view was fantastic!  To the SSE, Loaf Mountain (11,722 ft.) was in sight between Darton Peak (12,275 ft.) and Bighorn Peak (12,324 ft.).  More toward the S, part of the lower Lost Twin Lake was visible nearly 1,700 feet below Lost Twin Lakes Peak (12,015 ft.).

Mather Peaks E summit region. True summit (R). W summit (far L). Photo looks WNW.
HP11904 (L), Peak 12080 (R of Center), Darton Peak (R), Bighorn Peak (far R), with Loaf Mountain between them. Photo looks SE.

More mountain splendors were ahead!  Crossing the summit plateau, Lupe reached the cairn over by the true summit.  She now had a grand view of Mather Peaks’ lower (12,348 ft.) W summit only 0.5 mile WSW.  6 miles WNW, Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) caught the eye.

Peak 12,328, 1.25 miles NW, was of special interest.  Might well be the American Dingo’s next destination, if the Florence Pass gamble was a go!

By the Mather Peaks E (true) summit cairn. W summit (L), Elk Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks W.
Mather Peaks W summit (L), Elk Mountain (far R). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Elk Mountain (far L), Peak 12328 (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

As tremendous as all these sights were, none of them were the actual, grand scenic prize from Mather Peaks.  That title was held by the view to the N, where Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), mightiest of the Bighorn Range, Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.), and a series of intervening sheer cliffs was on display.

Loop at Mather Peaks true summit with Cloud Peak (Center) and Bomber Mountain (R) beyond. Photo looks N.
Peak 12328 (L), Cloud Peak (Center), Bomber Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Cloud Peak (L). The entire ridge in the foreground is all part of Bomber Mountain. Bomber’s true summit is the distant flat knob R of Center. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Mather Peaks true summit!  Congratulations, Loopster!  Kind of a tough slog for no farther or higher than we had to go today, wasn’t it?

Mather Peaks matter, SPHP, and here we are!  Hope you’ve got a chocolate coconut bar in that pack!  Think I’ve earned one.

Most definitely time for a rest break.  Although smoke was visible to the W and S, it wasn’t close enough to mar the 360º views.  Conditions were otherwise near perfect.

Perfect?  Nothing but rock up here!  Can’t even relax in comfort, SPHP!

Yeah, that was more or less true.  SPHP helped Lupe get as comfortable as possible, then fished an army green box out from the rocks below the boulder where the cairn sat.  As expected, a registry was inside.  It was damp, but SPHP made certain Lupe’s visit was recorded.

The green registry box (Center) in its hiding spot below the SE side of the cairn boulder. Photo looks down.

Any other entries in the registry, SPHP?

Yes, some, but not very many.  Couple miles of talus does tend to keep the riff-raff away, Loop.

For a while, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, trying to snooze, or gazing out at the glorious views in all directions.  Once sufficiently rested up, the Carolina Dog joined SPHP in wandering about the summit region.

Mather Peaks E summit region from close to the true summit. Peak 12080 (far R). Photo looks SE.
Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (L of Center), Loaf Mountain (in the distance), Bighorn Peak (Center), Lost Twin Lakes Peak (R) with part of lower Lost Twin Lake below it. Photo looks SSE.
HP10841 (L), Ant Hill (10,980 ft.) (Center), Lake De Smet (R) on the horizon, Deer Lake (lower R). Photo looks NE.
Loop next to a tiny patch of snow she found to chomp. Mather Peaks E (true) summit (Center). Cairn (L). Photo looks NW.

4:11 PM, Mather Peaks E summit – More than an hour after arriving, Lupe stood again at the true summit with that fabulous view of Cloud Peak and Bomber Mountain beyond her.

Cloud Peak (L of Center) and Bomber Mountain (R). Photo looks N.

Always sad to leave a place anywhere close to as grand as Mather Peaks, but it was time.  Sadder yet that, although it wasn’t all that far away, Lupe wasn’t going to have time to visit Mather Peaks’ W summit.

A combination of SPHP’s queasiness causing a late start, the unsuccessful and unnecessary quest to see the Frozen Lakes, SPHP’s usual torpid pace, and shorter days this late in the season were all contributing factors.

Oh, the Carolina Dog could have made it to the W summit, alright, but doing so would have meant having to negotiate a long descent through a sea of talus in the dark.  Nope, not worth it!  Lupe had spent a delightful full hour plus up at Mather Peaks’ true summit, and that was going to have to be good enough.

Yada, yada!  It’s been splendid, but we don’t have forever up here, SPHP!  What’s plan D?  Are we going back?  Did you drag that fully loaded pack all the way up here for nothing?  Or are we gambling?

Gambling on Florence Pass, Loop!  That’s the good news!  Looks like we ought to be able to find a decent spot to camp S of Peak 12328.

SPHP started down first, scrambling SW off the summit before angling NW.  The American Dingo soon came bounding after.  Another mostly talus march W ensued down to the saddle leading to Mather Peaks’ W summit.  Instead of heading for that tempting, forbidden destination, Lupe turned N as soon as possible.

Middle Tensleep Creek valley (L). SPHP started down here, ultimately heading off to the R. Photo looks SW.
Final moments on Mather Peaks! Cairn (R of Lupe). Photo looks ENE.
Elk Mountain (L), Peak 12328 (R). Ultimate destination, the big saddle (Center). Photo looks NW.
Past the worst of the rock on the way down to the grassy area (L). Peak 12328 (Center), Cloud Peak (far R). Photo looks NW.

6:23 PM, saddle between Mather Peaks & Peak 12328 –  The descent had been a mostly slow, but gorgeous evening trek.  Incredible surroundings, profound solitude!  Thus far, Plan D had gone just fine.  The tiny house was all set up, and Lupe had what remained of the day to chow down and relax in superb isolation.

Mather Peaks E (true) summit (far L). Ridge to the W summit (R). Photo looks SE.

Can’t be too many Dingos that have ever been here, Loopster!

They’re missing out, SPHP!

That’s a good thing, Loop.  Wouldn’t be the same if there was a crowd.

Resting by the tiny house, sunlight streaming over her, tomorrow’s next adventure was just N.  Peak 12328 looked like a snap.  The real question was whether getting down to Florence Pass afterwards would actually be feasible?

Peak 12328 (Center), start of tomorrow’s adventure! Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t worried.  She stayed out until the sun was gone before entering the tiny house.  Paws twitching as dusk deepened, Lupe set off on more adventures in Dingo Dreamland.  Perhaps bounding over the endless talus to visit the lonely W summit of Mather Peaks?

Day’s end.
Mather Peaks, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 9-27-21

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Bradley Mountain, Wyoming Range, Wyoming (7-9-21)

Days 17-19 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-8-21, 2:37 PM, E of Alpine – Only a few dispersed camping sites here, but the luck of the Dingo held!  15 minutes after arriving, the tattooed lady with two kids who were collecting seashells abandoned the best spot, allowing SPHP to seize it.

On a shady bank overlooking the Greys River, Lupe was set for the day!  Miss Hot Paws cooled off wading along the edge of the beautiful river while SPHP took a dip, then spent her time snoozing, or barking at squirrels.

At the premier dispersed camping site overlooking the Greys River.
By the beautiful Greys River.

7-9-21, 6:28 AM, 46ºF – A cattle guard on Greys River Road was only a mile or two E of the spiffy dispersed camping site where Lupe had spent the night.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at the second pullout on the R beyond it, which seemed to be about the right area.

Sure enough, on the opposite N side of the road, an unmarked use trail went up the embankment.

Leaving Greys River Road.

Setting out for Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.), Lupe climbed steadily, but SPHP soon realized that the use trail she was on wasn’t climbing fast enough.  The American Dingo had barely started when it curved around the L side of the ridge ahead as though destined to proceed up the valley to the W.  Doubts already!  Maybe this wasn’t the right trail?  Loopster needed to be up on the ridgeline.

Off to a seemingly good start, looking back down on the river and Greys River Road. Photo looks S.
But the use trail soon headed toward the valley to the W. Photo looks WNW.
Starting to realize that Lupe needed to be up on the ridgeline (R). Photo looks N.

Hoping for the best, SPHP stuck with the use trail too long before giving up on it.  Delaying the steep ascent required to get up onto the ridge had been a mistake.  Looper faced a tough climb when she finally made her move.  Any steeper, and SPHP would have been clinging to stuff.  During pauses to gasp for breath, SPHP noticed that the loose gray soil was full of little white seashells, or maybe they were snail shells?

Off-trail, trying to get up to the ridgeline.
Almost there!

Reaching the ridgeline was a relief.  The rounded ridge was plenty wide, and covered with sagebrush and plants with big arrow-shaped leaves.  Scattered trees provided shade which wasn’t needed yet, but would be soon enough.

Even the ridge climbed at a fairly aggressive rate.  Before long, Lupe was starting to get some views.  Somewhat worryingly, toward the S, the sky was turning white.

Success! Happily, up on the ridgeline where life is better! Photo looks NW.
A long way up already, and starting to get some views. Photo looks S.

Another use trail ran up the ridge, which eventually broadened out into a small valley.  The trail continued across it, then up to a higher region.  A forested high point came into view ahead.  Probably HP8518, the first of a series of big knobs SPHP had seen mentioned in various trip reports.

As Lupe continued higher, paused SPHP for breathers.  The best view during these short breaks was of Stewart Mountain (10,103 ft.) back to the S.  It’s barren summit stood out among the otherwise heavily forested region around it.

Crossing the small valley. Photo looks NNW.
HP8518, the first “knob” (L of Center) comes into view. Photo looks N.
Steadily higher, but easy terrain. HP8518 (L). Photo looks N.
Looking back. Stewart Mountain (R). Photo looks S.
Stewart Mountain. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The ridge broadened out into a wide sagebrush and big arrowhead leaf plant meadow.  Losing the trail, Lupe stayed toward the E (R) side of the ridge where a few trees offered shade.  A minor high point wasn’t far ahead.  E of it, the terrain appeared to be topping out.

When Lupe got there, a short break was taken in the shade of several big trees.  Ants had built a vast metropolis nearby.  Across a flat region also full of sagebrush and the big arrowhead leaf plants, the minor highpoint was now seen to be a small, flat ridge.  N of it, a second knob was visible above and beyond HP8518.

Approaching the minor high point (L), Lupe stayed toward the R. Photo looks N.
A small portion of the bustling red and black ant metropolis.
Minor highpoint (actually a small ridge) (L). HP8518 (Center). Photo looks NW.

Loop was perfectly happy relaxing in the shade, but still had a long way to go.  After water and only a short rest, she headed WNW across the flat region toward the little ridge, rediscovering the use trail again on the way.  After climbing up onto the ridge, the trail turned N toward HP8518.

Lower down, the big arrowhead-shaped leaf plants had a dry, past their prime look, but up here they still sported big yellow flowers.  HP8518‘s E slope was all meadow, and it sure appeared that the American Dingo ought to be able to go up that way easily enough.  However, trip reports SPHP had read all suggested that the best route was W of the knobs.

Back on the trail near the top of the little ridge. HP8518 (Center). Photo looks NNW.
At the base of HP8518. Photo looks N.

Hmm.  I don’t know.  What do you think, Looper?  Which way should we go?  The E slope looks pretty good to me.

Why not let the trail decide, SPHP?  If it goes W, fine!  But if it fades away, staying E looks better to me, too, as long as we stick close enough to the forest to check for squirrels, and get out of the sun if we need to.

Starting up HP8518. the use trail headed into the trees.  Lupe climbed only a little way before it did swing over toward the W.  Since the trail was actually more distinct along in here, Loop stuck with it.  Leveling out, the trail traversed a steep, mostly forested slope.  Before long, there were open stretches, too, and a SW ridge could be seen ahead.

Heading for the SW ridge (L). Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching the SW ridge, the trail divided.  An easy 30 foot climb would have gotten Lupe up onto the open ridgeline, but the clearest branch of the trail turned NE, so she went that way instead.

The level traverse was over.  Paralleling the SW ridge, never all that far from the crest, the use trail began another steep climb.  Entering a big stand of aspens, Lupe followed a series of tight switchbacks higher.

Enjoying the shade of the aspens.

After a good climb, the trail entered a conifer forest as it finally went over the crest of the SW ridge.  Lupe was now on an another steep slope almost directly W of HP8518.  The trail flattened out for a while before resuming the ascent at an easier pace.

Bradley Mountain’s summit was now only a mile NW.  For the first time, the American Dingo began getting glimpses of it from small openings in the forest.  Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.) was just a big hill!  Didn’t look difficult at all.

Bradley Mountain (L) from the W slope of HP8518. Photo looks N.
Bradley Mountain summit (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Still below and W of the knobs, the trail began turning NNW.  Lupe came to a flat corridor between conifer forest on the R (E) and aspens on the L (W).  The corridor soon widened out into a big meadow providing the first truly unobstructed views of her objective.

On the level corridor between the aspens and conifers. Photo looks N.
Entering the meadow. Bradley Mountain dead ahead! Photo looks NW.

The trail vanished.  Ahead, the meadow sloped downward.  Rather than lose elevation, Lupe turned NE toward some tall trees.  After a short rest in the shade, she continued up to the ridgeline the knobs were strung out along, picking up the trail again on the way.

The ridge was open where Loop reached it, already N of HP8518 and a couple of other knobs.  HP8825, the last of the big knobs was now visible directly ahead.  The trail aimed toward it, but well before getting there, went over to the W side of the ridgeline and descended to another part of the big meadow.

Finally up on the ridge the knobs were strung out along. HP8825 (R) ahead! Bradley Mountain (L). Photo looks N.
About to drop down to the meadow again. Photo looks NW.

Looper lost maybe 60 feet of elevation before the trail leveled out.  Soon she was climbing again.  When the trail returned to the ridgeline NW of HP8825, Lupe was overjoyed!

SPHP, look!  A glacier!

Streaking toward the Bradley Mountain Glacier, the American Dingo was off like a shot.  Seconds later, she was there, enthusiastically rolling and thrashing about on the soft, cold snow of a big snowbank melting into a pond.

Ecstasy on the Bradley Mountain Glacier! Photo looks ESE.
So much better!

Feeling a little hot, were you, aye, Loop?

You try climbing mountains in July wearing a fur coat, SPHP!  You’ll see!

Climbing steadily, the trail continued up a little valley above the glacier.  It soon veered W out onto a grassy, gently sloping bench on the upper S face of Bradley Mountain.  Only 200 feet below the summit now, the trail continued W, seemingly uninterested in going there.  However, it looked like Lupe could scramble N up to rock outcroppings along the E ridge, cutting some distance off a final assault on the summit.

Refreshed by her glacier experience, the Carolina Dog went for it.

On the sloping bench of the S face only 200 feet below the summit. Photo looks WNW.
Heading higher! Photo looks NE.

Plenty steep, but perfectly doable.  Some loose soil and rock near the top, but Lupe got there.

Up on the E ridge. Photo looks N.
A Dingo’s eye view of the Bradley Mountain Glacier. Photo looks ESE.

Bradley Mountain’s E ridge was quite narrow where Loop reached it.  A little gnarlier than expected, too.  However, the view to the W was most encouraging.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t far from the summit now, and only a little lower.

Destined for success, Lupe headed WNW.  At one point she had to drop a little down the N side of the ridge to get past a sharp drop, but after that, the terrain wasn’t as rocky and began to broaden out.  Suddenly, all that remained was a short grassy stroll to the high point.

Summit (R of Center) bound! Photo looks WNW.
Glancing back as the E ridge broadens out. HP8825 (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.
Almost there! Photo looks WNW.

7-9-21, 12:29 PM, 70ºF – Lupe came up Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.) from the ESE, arriving almost immediately at the true summit, situated close to the SE end of a summit region roughly 5 acres in size.  Most of the mountaintop consisted of a rolling sagebrush meadow that sloped gradually down toward the NW.  A band of trees stood along the N edge.

Directly over the true summit, a 12 foot tall metal framework supported a single large solar panel used to power a communications site.  Beneath it was a small well-constructed cairn.

Although Bradley Mountain hadn’t been a rugged or difficult peak at all, roughly 3,400 feet of elevation had been gained over the course of 3 miles.  Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a good long break.  While SPHP checked out the cairn, the American Dingo relaxed in the shade cast by the solar panel.

By the cairn at the true summit. Photo looks NE.
Taking it easy on Bradley Mountain. Photo looks W.

The cairn was hollow.  Removing one of the two rocks serving as a roof revealed an upside down tin can painted red.  The sight brought a flood of emotion.

Loopster!  Guess what?  Richard Carey has been here!  Remember Cathedral Mountain?

Up in the Brooks Range in Alaska, SPHP?  Of course, I do!  Oh, that was a glorious day!  What a magnificent mountain!

No understatement there.  Cathedral Mountain had been where Lupe first encountered one of Richard Carey’s signature red tin cans back in 2017.  Lifting it, SPHP wasn’t surprised to see a jar containing a small red spiral notebook, a pen, and a pencil.  Sure enough, the first entry in this little registry was by Richard Carey.

Gosh, Loop!  If we’d been here less than a year ago, we could have met Richard Carey.  And Shelley Rogers was with him!

Shelley Rogers?

Yes.  Remember the Chandalar Shelf not too far from Atigun Pass?

Where we were going to climb Table Mountain (6,314 ft.), but had to turn back due to rain and fog, SPHP?

Yeah.  Richard and Shelley climbed Table Mountain together, too.  There’s a picture of Shelley on Peakbagger.com standing next to a cairn up there that’s as tall as she is.  I looked at that picture so many times before we made our trivial attempt, that I almost expected we would find Shelley still standing there, if we had made it to the top.

The registry contained only one other entry.  Dustin Erickson had been here on 6-1-21.  SPHP added Lupe’s name before returning the registry to the jar and hiding it under the red tin can back inside the cairn.

For an hour, Loop and SPHP remained there beneath the solar panel.  Every now and then the Carolina Dog had to move a little to stay in the shade.  She munched at her Taste of the Wild or tried to doze while SPHP muttered away.

Funny, isn’t it, Loop?

Oh, yes!  Absolutely hilarious!  Care to mention what you’re talking about, SPHP?

All the names we see on Peakbagger.com.  Thousands of them!  At first, they’re all meaningless, but over time, some stand out.  Usually because we’ve been to some of the same places.  Like our first ill-fated peakbagging hero, Edward Earl, or Tim Worth!  Not always, though.  Yet after a while you start to feel like you somehow know these people, almost like they’re personal friends, even though we’ve never met or had any contact.

Haven’t we exchanged a few emails with Richard Carey, SPHP?  I know we did!

True enough.  Smart guy!  Richard’s been to many exotic places, knows a lot of history, and writes extremely accurate trip reports.  But I’m not just talking about Mr. Carey, but the whole peakbagging “community”, if you want to call it that.

Well, we know Jobe Wymore and Dave Covill, SPHP!  And they’re both terrific!  No doubt there are lots of great individuals, and canines I might add, out wandering in the mountains like us.  Glad they’re not all here right now, though!  We like it remote and secluded, don’t we?

Yeah, most of the time.  Sometimes fun to have company.

We’re always together, SPHP!

True dat, sweet puppy!

Bradley Mountain was quiet enough.  Unfortunately, the morning’s white sky had foretold the situation.  A smoky haze was in all directions, and getting worse, carried in on a SW breeze.  Grand Teton (13,770 ft.) had been faintly visible far to the N when Lupe first reached the summit, but no sign of it now.

Regardless, it was about time for a tour of the summit region.  Splendid mountains everywhere, but the smoke was bad enough to significantly degrade all views.  A glimpse of relatively nearby highlights was about it.  These included Ferry Peak (9,612 ft.), a distinctive light gray ridge to the NW, the S end of the Palisades Reservoir to the W, and Stewart Mountain (10,103 ft.) to the S.

Setting off on the summit tour. Photo looks S.
View to the NE.
Near the N end. Photo looks N.
Looking W.
Ferry Peak (Center). Photo looks NW.
Palisades Reservoir, dimly seen down by Alpine. Photo looks W.
Stewart Mountain (R). Photo looks S.

7-9-21, 1:59 PM – During the 1.5 hours Loopster had been up on Bradley Mountain the SW breeze had kicked up to more of a wind, and the air seemed to be getting smokier by the minute.  Once again, the Carolina Dog sat by the cairn at the true summit.

Back at the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Guess this is about it, huh, SPHP?

The way this smoke is looking, maybe in more ways than one, Looper.  But you’re right, it’s time.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Starting down. Photo looks SE.

The descent via the same route went fine, fast and easy until SPHP made a change.  Lupe was already clear down to the small valley the use trail had crossed on the way up, when SPHP decided that maybe going down the valley would be better than following the ridge.

Huge mistake!  Started out OK, but soon Lupe was plunging steeply through thick vegetation neck high on SPHP.  Slow, miserable!  Thankfully, the American Dingo didn’t cliff out.  The jungle ordeal seemed endless, but the situation eventually improved.

Finally popping out on Greys River Road 200 yards W of the RAV4, a steady stream of pickups and ATV’s roaring by kicked up clouds of dust during the hot trudge along the road.  (End 5:56 PM, 87ºF)

All the dispersed camping sites along the Greys River were taken this late in the day.  What now?  Lupe still had plans in the Wyoming Range.  Last year, the smoke from wildfires farther W hadn’t chased Loop out of Montana until August 10th.  Seemed incredible it could be happening a whole month earlier here in Wyoming in 2021, yet the smoke was bad in Alpine.

Too hot down here in any case.  In the end, SPHP drove all the way back to the Kilgore Creek trailhead near Hoback Peak where Lupe had been 2 nights ago.

7-10-21, 7:18 AM, 46ºF, Kilgore Creek trailhead – Precisely as feared, too smoky!  The Wyoming Range had to be abandoned.  Entering Pinedale an hour later, even the Wind River Range was enveloped in haze.  Far to the NE, the Bighorn Range became Plan B.  By mid-afternoon, Lupe was there.  N of the Owl Creek Mountains, the sky had been an encouraging blue again.

Loopster spent the rest of the afternoon and evening at the Lake Point picnic ground overlooking Meadowlark Lake.  Just before sunset, she took the short trail up to High Park Lookout (9,477 ft.).

Bighorn Range from High Park Lookout. Photo looks N.

Patches of snow were visible up on the big peaks along the spine of the Bighorns.  Some haziness up there, but not too bad yet.  However, the blue skies W of the Bighorns had already vanished during the few hours spent at Lake Point.  Smoke to the S, even some to the E, and a big plume heading this way out of the NW.

Sorry, Lupe.

It’s over, SPHP?

Yup.  Don’t think there’s any sense in waiting around.  Likely to be worse by morning.

Half an hour later, SPHP briefly parked the RAV4 at Powder River Pass.  Back to the WNW, a red sun sank into the murk, and was gone.

Now what, SPHP?

This is it, Looper.  Your Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming is over.  We’re heading home.

But it isn’t even mid-July yet, SPHP!  Summer can’t be over!

Oh, it’s not!  Looks like a long, hot, dry one still ahead.  We’ll clean up and rest up at home, then figure out what to do.  In the meantime, pray for a big monsoon to put out the fires out W.

Heh.  How likely was that?  Not very, but hope springs eternal.  The American Dingo wasn’t giving up on the summer of 2021, certainly not yet!  (End, 7-11-21, 1:12 AM, home)

On Bradley Mountain, Wyoming Range, Wyoming 7-9-21

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Bradley Mountain GPS Track by Sam Grant 7-9-20

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Hoback Peak, Wyoming Range, Wyoming (7-7-21)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-6-21, 1:16 PM – 6 miles S of Hwy 189/191 on Upper Hoback River Road, a side road with a 30710 sign angled off to the R (W).  This must be it!

At the turn onto USFS Road No. 30710. Photo looks W.

It was.  2.5 miles later, after passing a horse camp, SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Kilgore Creek trailhead.  This was a rest day.  All the action was going to happen tomorrow.  After spending much of the morning at various parks in Pinedale, Lupe could laze about right here all afternoon and evening.

A log had fallen across Kilgore Creek creating a foot high waterfall.  No one else around.  The Carolina Dog ate her fill, snapped at flies, dozed, and occasionally cooled her paws off and got a drink from the creek.  A bit warmer than she would have liked, but overall a very pleasant time.  SPHP worked on the trip journal.

7-7-21, 7:40 AM, 52ºF, Kilgore Creek trailhead – Daylight in the swamps!  In fact, the sun had been up for a while now.  A well-rested American Dingo trotted past the road closed sign, and headed SW on Kilgore Creek trail No. 136.  A ford was around the first bend.  Lupe waded across.

She was now officially on her way to Hoback Peak (10,862 ft.)!

Morning at the Kilgore Creek trailhead.
About to hit Kilgore Creek trail No. 136.
Fording Kilgore Creek.

A long sunny meadow was ahead.

Following Kilgore Creek trail No. 136 through the long meadow. Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the far end of the meadow, Lupe passed through a stretch of forest.  The trail curved R and entered a clearing.  A second ford was in sight.  Loop again splashed through the stream, while SPHP managed to log hop it this time.

At the end of the meadow, about to enter the forest. Photo looks SW.
By Kilgore Creek after passing through the forest. Photo looks NE.
Fording Kilgore Creek a second time. Photo looks SSW.

Beyond the second ford, Lupe could see some of the mountains farther up the valley.  The trail soon led to an abandoned stretch of USFS Road No. 30710.  Climbing steadily at an easy pace, the old roadbed rose well above the level of Kilgore Creek, which could still be heard, but not seen.

Beyond the second ford with a glimpse of the mountains ahead.
The trail led to an abandoned roadbed.
A delicate beauty.
Gradually gaining elevation following the old roadbed.

The road leveled out well before ending at a meadow.  After crossing the meadow, Kilgore Creek trail No. 136 re-entered the forest.  Suddenly Lupe was in an area that felt much wilder.  The trail climbed in fits and starts, sometimes quite steeply, but there were also both up and down segments at minor ravine crossings, and even some flat stretches.

Loopster began to encounter some deadfall.  Fortunately, there wasn’t all that much of it.

Entering the meadow where the old roadbed ended. Photo looks SW.
Crossing a small ravine. Photo looks NW.
Traversing a steep hillside. Photo looks WSW.

Roughly 3 miles from the trailhead, Lupe reached a ravine different from all the others.  A tributary of Kilgore Creek flowed through a wide mucky channel of reddish-brown dirt.  The whole ravine appeared to have been recently flooded.  Lupe sauntered across completely oblivious to how muddy her paws got.  SPHP used tree trunks half sunk in the mire to get past the worst of it.

Crossing the memorable mucky ravine.

Not far beyond this muddy ravine, the valley broadened out.  Kilgore Creek was almost at the trail’s level again, and could be seen in some spots among the bushes covering much of the valley floor.  Directly ahead, the mountains were much closer than before.

SPHP was starting to wonder.  Somewhere along in here, Loopster was supposed to leave the trail after passing a waterfall.  Kilgore Creek was rushing down drops of several feet in places, yet it wasn’t clear if any of these rapids constituted the waterfall in question, or not.  The topo map showed a junction with High Line trail No. 136, which headed N, but the American Dingo hadn’t come to it.  No signage, either.

Only a little farther on, there was a steep open slope on the R.  Looked like it might be the last relatively easy place to climb out of this valley and go N.  Perhaps Lupe ought to do that?  Seemed like a good idea.

The valley opens up. Lupe headed for the steep open slope on the R. Photo looks W.

As it turned out, the trail was destined for the same slope SPHP had an eye on.  Instead of continuing up the valley, the trail switchbacked up it.  Lupe was getting close to the top, when the trail entered the forest along the W end of the slope.  A short steep climb, and she reached a narrow ridgeline of red dirt.

A roar of water came from a deep ravine W of the ridgeline.  On the far side, well above the ravine and where Lupe was now, a tall waterfall plunged down a very steep slope.

Think we’ve found that waterfall you’ve been looking for, SPHP!

I’d venture to say so, too, Loop!  No doubt about it now!

At the lower end of the red dirt ridge with the waterfall in sight. Photo looks NW.

The trail, which must actually have been High Line trail No. 136 by now, even though SPHP hadn’t seen any junction, turned N following the red dirt ridge higher along the edge of the deep ravine.  Turned out there were two waterfalls, not just one!

Climbing along the edge of the ravine. Photo looks NNW.
The main waterfall. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Twice as nice! Two waterfalls for the price of one! Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

The red dirt ridge soon broadened and leveled out.  Directly ahead was a lush green meadow.  On its way to a pass E of a huge ridge, High Line trail No. 136 continued N right through the middle of it.

Time for a break!  Lupe shared a chocolate coconut bar with SPHP, then relaxed in the shade while watching a deer graze.  Meanwhile, SPHP checked the map again.

Entering the lush meadow beyond the waterfalls. Photo looks N.

Looks like this meadow must be where we’re supposed to leave the trail, Loopster.

We’re going to climb that big ridge, SPHP?

Yeah.  Not all the way to the highest point, but we’ve got to find a way to get up into the drainage that feeds the waterfalls.

Halfway across the meadow, Lupe left High Line trail No. 136 angling NW toward the steep slope below the massive ridge.  Off-trail, the meadow was a thick jungle of bluebells, Indian paintbrush, and other gorgeous wildflowers, but surprisingly uneven and rocky underpaw.

The terrain was steepening when the Carolina Dog made an unexpected discovery.  A use trail!  If Lupe had stayed on High Line trail No. 136 a bit farther, she would have run into it.  As it was, she’d taken a shortcut.  Angling gradually up to the SSW, the use trail appeared destined for the lowest part of the ridge a little N of the waterfalls.

The use trail made life, oh, so easy!  Gaining elevation as she traversed the slope below the ridge, Lupe enjoyed a gorgeous view to the S.

In the meadow, approaching the ridge. Photo looks SW.
Partway up. Photo looks SSW.
Nothing to it! Following the use trail. Photo looks SSW.

Upon reaching the top of the steep slope, the use trail entered the forest.  Lupe had made it to the region above the waterfalls.  Surprisingly, the use trail did not end here, but turned NW up an open lane.

Entering the region above the waterfalls. Photo looks NW.

This lane wasn’t nearly as steep as the slope Loopster had just come up.  Beyond it, the trail angled more WNW, as the terrain flattened further.  After crossing a tiny stream, the trail became so faint that it was hard to follow.  Lupe wandered through a patchwork of clearings and forest, eventually arriving at the edge of a big clearing with a view of Hoback Peak’s NE face.

Approaching Hoback Peak. Photo looks WSW.

Turning WSW, Lupe aimed for an open corridor where she could ford the stream in the valley to the S.  Crossing minor tributaries along the way, she avoided marshy areas where the bluebells grew thickest.

Where Loop reached it, even the main stream wasn’t very big.  On the far bank was an amazing sight – one of the most profuse and dazzling displays of Indian paintbrush the American Dingo had ever seen.

Crossing the main stream. Photo looks W.
Splendid!

After fording the stream, a broad open corridor was visible next to a long line of trees on the slope ahead.  SPHP knew that most climbers go up Hoback Peak’s NE ridge, which was still considerably farther W, but Lupe could climb that slope!  Even the terrain above the line of trees looked perfectly feasible.

The wide corridor (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

Lupe climbed and climbed.  Reaching the upper end of the line of trees, she turned W roaming a beautiful land.  Fewer trees up here, though, and the day was sunny and warm.  Too warm for a fur coat!

Loop started hanging back, resting in the shade until SPHP reached the next little stand of trees, or threatened to disappear from view entirely.  Then she came running to catch up before seeking another shady spot.

In the beautiful territory above the long line of trees. Photo looks WSW.

Eventually that trick no longer worked.  Hardly any trees around at all.  Sticking much closer to SPHP again, Lupe trudged higher.

Loopster was heading SW up another long slope when she discovered a game trail that angled up toward the L (ESE).  Pausing frequently to gasp for air, SPHP was in favor of any route that wasn’t quite so ambitious.  A game trail was fine.

Past most of the trees, heading up an increasingly steep slope. Photo looks SW.

The game trail worked out beautifully.  Only one spot where it got rather dicey.  The dirt was packed so hard that SPHP’s poles couldn’t penetrate, and boots might lose traction.  A 30 foot slide would lead to the brink of a minor cliff, a ride SPHP wasn’t anxious to experience.

Happily, the dicey spot was only 10 to 15 feet long.  All went well.  Lupe continued up the mountain, eventually leaving the trail to head straight on up the remaining 200 feet to the top of – what?

The view was a bit of a shock.

Good grief!  We’re not in Kansas anymore, Loop!

Kansas!  Hoback Peak is in Wyoming!  I should hope we’re not in Kansas, SPHP!  Have you lost your marbles?

No, I just meant that we aren’t where I thought we were.

And where was that, SPHP?

Somehow I’d gotten it in mind that we’d drifted far enough W that we were close to Hoback Peak’s NE ridge.  This isn’t it.

Are you sure, SPHP?  How do you know?

Yup, 100% certain.  That’s got to be Hoback Peak over there!

Instead of being SW, as expected, Hoback Peak (10,862 ft.) was visible off to the WNW!

Hoback Peak (Center) from where Lupe reached the SE ridge. Photo looks WNW.

No harm done.  Although Hoback Peak was still more than 0.5 mile away, what could be seen from here looked perfectly doable.  Lupe turned WNW along the ridgeline.

The ridge was easy to follow.  After going over a minor high point, Loop was far enough along to see that there were no major obstacles between here and Hoback’s SE subpeak other than stands of stunted conifers.

Turned out that the conifers weren’t any trouble, even though the ridge narrowed considerably as the Carolina Dog approached.  Enough room remained along the brink of minor cliffs to the N (R) to squeeze past the trees without having to struggle through them.

Making progress along the SE ridge. Hoback’s SE subpeak (L of Center). True summit (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.
Taking advantage of a bit of shade.
Looking back along the SE ridge. Photo looks SE.

Lupe was soon heading up Hoback Peak’s SE subpeak.  SPHP considered going through a gap between it and a hill to the N to avoid unnecessary elevation gain.  However, as Loop got closer, the gap looked so rocky that it seemed better to avoid it.

Heading up Hoback Peak’s SE subpeak (L). The gap on the R seemed enticing at this point. Photo looks W.
Eh! Forget the gap. Too rocky! Hoback Peak SE summit (L). True summit (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The SE summit proved to be a nice, barren, flat spot with room enough to move around.  The American Dingo now had a grand view of Hoback Peak’s true summit beyond a saddle.  Yet SPHP was initially dismayed.  It looked like Lupe had cliffed out!

Closer scrutiny revealed that she shouldn’t have any trouble.  Cake!

Hoback Peak’s true summit from the SE subpeak. Photo looks NW.

A rest was taken on the SE subpeak before heading down to the saddle leading to the true summit.  Staying toward the NE (R) to avoid a cliff, Lupe passed through an interesting region of large sheets of flat, thin rocks.  Once down to the grassy saddle, all that remained was a final weary, but joyful, trek higher.

Approaching the true summit (R). Photo looks WSW.

7-7-21, 2:29 PM, 70ºF, Hoback Peak – Hazy, but not too bad.  Lupe stood by a survey benchmark at Hoback Peak’s true summit.  Nearby was a small, disorganized pile of rocks.  A former cairn?  No registry, but 360º views!  Colorful, rumpled peaks not too far N, the highest of which must have been Claus Peak (10,612 ft.), caught the eye.

At Hoback Peak’s true summit. Survey benchmark in front of Lupe. Claus Peak (R of Center) in the background. Photo looks N.
Hoback Peak survey benchmark.

Ready to relax and enjoy her traditional summit hour, Loopster laid down.  The air was humming.  Flocks of butterflies chased each other in dizzying circles.  Bees and flies buzzed by constantly.  The tufts of grass that looked so comfortable were swarming with hundreds of ladybugs.

The American Dingo found dozing impossible.  Annoyed, she snapped at flies and bees, and devoured ladybugs.  Mountains were in all directions, except toward the SE where distant plains were visible.  Nothing nearby was any higher than Hoback Peak (10,862 ft.).

Relaxing on Hoback Peak. The long line of lower peaks is Grayback Ridge. Photo looks WNW.
A ladybug festival was in progress.

Not that there weren’t higher peaks in sight.  Lots of them, actually, but they were all far away.  The Wind River range was off to the E.  To the NE, SPHP could pick out Doubletop Peak (11,720 ft.) in the Gros Ventre Range where Lupe had been only 3 days ago.  Grand Teton (13,770 ft.) was faintly visible to the N.  Countless others that SPHP didn’t recognize from here, too, all around.

Grand Teton (L) faintly on the horizon. Claus Peak (R of Center) much closer. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

The best views, though, were of all the fabulous territory nearby.

Looking down Hoback Peak’s NE ridge. Photo looks ENE.
View to the WSW.
Peering down Hoback’s short NW ridge. Photo looks NW.
Hoback’s SE subpeak (L of Center). Crazy Mountain (10,545 ft.) (R). Photo looks SE.
Looking SSW.

Like the whirling, buzzing cloud of insects, time flew by.  Lupe and SPHP shared the last of the chocolate coconut bars.  Taste of the Wild for Loop, and Mott’s applesauce for SPHP.  Suddenly, sadly, summit hour was over.

Hoback Peak. Photo looks NNE.
Amid the swirling swarm.

Reluctantly, inevitably.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

On the way back, Lupe varied her route down the mountain.  Rather than go over the SE subpeak again, she turned NE from the saddle that led to it.

Leaving the summit (L). Photo looks WNW.
In the saddle leading to the SE subpeak (off the R edge). Photo looks ESE.
Gazing up at Hoback’s SE subpeak (Center). Photo looks SE.

For a long way, it was easy, a grassy slope that went relentlessly lower.

Heading down from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

SPHP probably should have tried to steer Lupe toward the NE ridge.  She’d already lost a tremendous amount of elevation when a boulder field came into sight ahead.  If SPHP had had enough sense to go 100 feet down a steep reddish-brown dirt gully toward the L (NW), which was still possible, Loopster would have enjoyed the easiest descent ever.  Instead, SPHP led her ENE directly into the boulders.

Should have headed for Hoback’s NE ridge (beyond Lupe). Photo looks N.

The boulder field looked short.  It was not.  It extended much farther than initial appearances.  A huge waste of time!  Lupe was essentially cliffed out now, the much easier grassy terrain the reddish-brown dirt gully would have led to constantly in sight 100 – 200 feet lower.

Although a terribly inefficient route, progress was still possible.  Slowly descending as she continued ENE, Lupe enjoyed fabulous views as she sniffed among the rocks, SPHP trailing behind.

A way down to the soft green meadows below finally appeared.  Happily, it all worked out in the end.

A scenic descent. Photo looks E.
Finally below the boulder fields. Photo looks N.

A beautiful evening amid spectacular surroundings!  The Carolina Dog had no problem finding the trail that led back down to the lush meadow near the waterfalls.  Reaching High Line trail No. 136 again, the success of the rest of the return was now assured.

7-7-21, 7:35 PM, 75°F, Kilgore Creek trailhead – What a day!  Weary and famished, Lupe was eager to leap back into the RAV4 and curl up on her pink blanket.  The sun was already down behind the mountains as she devoured an enormous evening meal.

Satisfied, Looper finally put her head down and closed her eyes.  Then, while listening to the soothing music of the little waterfall on Kilgore Creek, paws still twitching, she was off again on new adventures in Dingo dreamland, perhaps roaming free once more among the lively, lofty peaks of the magnificent Wyoming Range.

On Hoback Peak, Wyoming Range, Wyoming 7-7-21

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Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations to New Mexico, Wyoming & the West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.