Black Hills Expeditions – Page 50 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 258 – Spearfish Peak & Little Crow Peak (11-19-20)

8:52 AM, 43ºF, Devil’s Bathtub (Cleopatra) trailhead in Spearfish Canyon – Sort of a late start, especially for this time of year when the days are so short, but Lupe ought to have plenty of time to get to the Devil’s Bathtub, a popular Black Hills destination accessible from Spearfish Canyon. Last year she had been here and made it up Squaw Creek far enough to get to some beautiful pools past scenic cliffs, but it hadn’t seemed quite right. Sure enough, a little research later on had proven that the American Dingo hadn’t gone far enough to actually reach the Devil’s Bathtub. Now Loop was back to correct that mistake.

A 0.25 mile downstream jaunt along Spearfish Creek got Loopster to Cleopatra Place, a short road with a bridge over to some private homes and cabins on the E side of the river. Just past the bridge, the start of the Devil’s Bathtub trail was on the R. Certain of success this time around, Loop and SPHP started up Squaw Creek.

At the start of the **Devil’s Bathtub trail**.

In the narrow side canyon that Squaw Creek flows through on its way to join up with Spearfish Creek, the trail was soon criss-crossing Squaw Creek multiple times. Expected, but what SPHP hadn’t anticipated was that there was still some snow and ice way down here along the shaded creek. The frozen stuff had melted days ago almost everywhere else.

One of the early **Squaw Creek** crossings.

The first couple of crossings weren’t bad, but as Lupe continued up the valley, she kept coming to more snow and ice. Not enough to support her weight, but enough to make everything slippery. Even where it had all melted, the rocks were damp and slick. Rock hopping was risky, and SPHP really didn’t want to wade through it all getting freezing wet paws.

A spur trail NE of the stream led steeply up to higher ground. Hoping the spur might make it possible to skip some of the stream crossings, SPHP encouraged Loop to try it. Worked, but not a great solution. The short climb was tricky due to half-frozen mud. Once the trail leveled out, Lupe then had to cross a skinny, damp section on a treacherously steep slope, only to promptly get forced all the way back down to creek level again.

The next stream ford was easier, but the one after it was much worse. After successfully negotiating it only to immediately discover another one lying in wait that wasn’t any better, SPHP had had it.

*Keep coming, SPHP! This one isn’t bad at all.*

Hang on, Looper!

What’cha thinking, SPHP?

I’m thinking this isn’t going to work. We already know from your trek up here last year that we still have a bunch of stream crossings to go. Sooner or later, I’m going to wind up falling in the creek, or at least getting my paws soaking wet. Not a thrilling prospect in November, even though you might be fine with it.

So what are you saying? We’re done already? We’ve hardly started!

How about a change of plans? I say let’s skip the Devil’s Bathtub, and come back sometime when either the creek is solidly frozen over, or its just plain hot out. That’s when everyone else comes up here, so they can use the Devil’s Bathtub as a swimming hole.

Fine with me, SPHP, but what do you want to do instead?

Little Crow Peak (5,885 ft.) isn’t far away. Spearfish Peak (5,800 ft.) might even be within range. We haven’t been to either one in more than 4.5 years. Want to do that?

Sure! Which way from here, then?

We’ll have to go back to the start if we can’t climb our way out of here. Let’s give that a shot first. Right on up that slope! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Loopster powered up, while SPHP thrashed around on the steep slope. Managed to get up it, though. Maybe 100 feet above Squaw Creek, Lupe came to an old road covered with pine needles.

We’re in luck, SPHP! This ought to make things easier. Which way now?

Not entirely certain, Loop. Probably L. The topo map doesn’t even show this road. Say, maybe we can get to the Devil’s Bathtub after all, if we just follow it up Squaw Creek valley? Wanna try that?

You’re a truly flexible planner, SPHP. Devil’s Bathtub it is, again! Head R then?

Yup. Do it, Dingo!

*Back on track for the Devil’s Bathtub! We’re going this way!*

Well, shucks. It didn’t work. After going around a corner, chunks of the road were missing, haven fallen into the valley at one time or another. The road became a mostly one track trail traversing some perilously steep slopes. SPHP called another halt.

What now, SPHP?

Beginning to think this route is going to totally play out somewhere up ahead, Loop. Probably just a big waste of time.

So, you want to go back the way we came?

Yes, but stick with this road. Good chance it will tie in with USFS Road No. 186 before too long. No. 186 will get us up to the Little Crow Peak region. Same route that got us up there years ago.

*Went fine for a little way, but we’re turning back again here.*

Going NW back past where Lupe had originally reached this old pine needle covered road, it eventually did tie into another more substantial road. SPHP didn’t recognize it as USFS Road No. 186, but maybe it was? Almost had to be according to the map, although nothing looked familiar as the Carolina Dog took it higher.

At the junction with a more substantial rocky road that Loop followed higher.

Before long, Loop came to a single short switchback after which the road headed E up a narrow side canyon, climbing steadily at a pretty good clip. This went on for perhaps 0.75 mile or more. The terrain looked like it was about to level out a bit when Lupe reached a broken down gate in a fence line where the valley broadened out somewhat.

This gate seemed faintly familiar. Immediately beyond it, the road branched. Looper stayed to the L (NE), continuing up the valley. She’d already gained a lot of elevation. For the first time, a distant view was beginning to open up behind her.

On the way up the long non-descript valley.

At the broken gate, which seemed vaguely familiar. Photo looks E.

Starting to get a bit of a view. Photo looks WSW.

The road finally did level off. The Carolina Dog had climbed completely out of Spearfish Canyon and its off-shoots. This area also seemed vaguely familiar. SPHP was fairly certain Loop had been here before. If so, Little Crow Peak was only 0.5 mile off to the WNW. Instead of going back to climb it, though, Lupe continued NE.

Late morning. Sunny and crisp. A thin layer of snow brightened the road ahead. Felt good to be out and on the move, listening to the pines sighing in a light breeze. Looper didn’t get much farther before coming to a landmark that SPHP recognized for sure. At a spot where the road divided, remnants of an ancient battered bus sat quietly rusting away, just as it had been the last time Lupe had been here.

The road finally flattened out, providing a beautiful, easy trek ahead. Photo looks ENE.

The road continuing NE looked destined to go downhill. Instead of going that way, Lupe turned due E on a rockier road that went uphill. It wasn’t a big climb. The road soon leveled out. A little downhill stretch, and at the top of the next hill the American Dingo reached Carbonate Camp.

On the way to Carbonate Camp at the top of the next rise. Photo looks E.

Next to nothing left of the old ghost town. A wooden sign nailed to a big Ponderosa pine tree said “Carbonate Camp Cemetery”. Wooden boards marked 5 gravesites. Although leaning, the decaying boards were still standing, but that was all that was still here. 2 of the graves were N of the road, the other 3 were S.

Noon hour. Lupe and SPHP paused to relax for a few minutes by the 3 graves S of the road, and share a chocolate coconut bar. With an eager Dingo in on the deal, the little bar vanished in seconds. Loop followed that up with a Taste of the Wild chaser while SPHP munched an apple.

The new Carbonate Camp Cemetery sign. The old one that had been here 4.5 years ago had been misspelled.

1 of 5 wooden grave markers is visible just to the R of the sign. Not really much left here to desecrate. Photo looks E.

3 grave markers S of the road. About all remains of **Carbonate Camp**! Photo looks W.

E of Carbonate Camp, the road forked again, both branches heading downhill. Lupe took the main road as it curled L around to the N, then NW. Hmm. Maybe this route actually went back to the ancient bus? In any case, it wasn’t the right way.

Marching back up to the fork, Loop took a very rocky road NE down a steep hill. Before she reached the bottom of a deep ravine, she came to such a badly eroded section that this road would have been impassable to virtually any vehicle, although it wasn’t a bad hiking trail.

From this first ravine, the road headed due E again, going up and down over several smaller hills. 0.5 mile E of Carbonate Camp, Lupe arrived at a frozen pond tucked away in the shadows of upper Rubicon Gulch.

Starting down into the **first ravine E of Carbonate Camp**. Photo looks E.

By the frozen pond in **upper Rubicon Gulch**. Photo looks WSW.

A number of roads intersected down here in Rubicon Gulch. One going S led over to a gated-off area owned by a mining operation. One went NW down Rubicon Gulch, and another continued straight E up a steep slope.

Without hesitation, the Carolina Dog took yet another road that climbed NE, then N up to the top of the next ridge. The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached a big overhead power line. After going under the power line, she passed a cute little cabin on the R (E).

Spearfish Peak (5,800 ft.) was still 2 miles N of here. A little more than that the way the road went. After 1:30 PM. SPHP was now regretting the ridiculous decision not to climb Little Crow Peak first. With sunset only a bit after 4:00 PM, if Loopster went on to Spearfish Peak it was probably going to be dark by the time she could get back to Little Crow.

Should have been evident all along! Nothing to do about it now, though, except pick up the pace. Might still work out. Lupe continued N past some more private property. Soon she was passing under the power line again, with a glimpse of Spearfish Peak in the distance.

**Spearfish Peak** (R) from the power line. Lupe did not go down the road seen on the R. Photo looks NNW.

From the power line, the road swung W a little way going up over a small hill in the process, then down again before turning N once more to climb a larger hill. Meanwhile, the sky had clouded up, turning a sad gray. The air felt colder. Except for the dark green of the pines, and the snow white bark of leafless, shivering aspens, everything along the road was brown, tan, or beige, the somber colors of death.

Approaching **Spearfish Peak** (Center) on USFS Road No. 220. Photo looks N.

One of those afternoons with a late fall feel, as if the icy hand of winter was near, plotting to steal in without warning and seize the entire world in its eternal frozen grip. An afternoon for brooding and dark thoughts.

Yet Lupe was doing fine, trotting happily along, sometimes venturing into the brush for a quick sniff before returning to the road. She was making good progress. Crow Peak (5,787 ft.), the big one, not the little one, came into sight off to the NW. As Loop drew near Spearfish Peak, Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) could be seen looking small and insignificant out on the plains beyond the rest of the Black Hills. It was still bathed in sunlight. Clearly, winter was in no position to back up its idle threats. At least, not yet.

**Crow Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting close to **Spearfish Peak**. Photo looks NNW.

**Bear Butte** (Center). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

The road returned to the power line before getting to Spearfish Peak. USFS Road No. 220 soon veered off to the R (NE) heading downhill. Lupe stuck with the power line, and quickly came to another fork. This time she took the L (NW) branch, a short road that ended near the trees. An ATV trail continued up Spearfish Peak’s SE ridge, but soon gave out as well, reduced to a single track trail that wound the rest of the way up to the summit.

Lupe took the road to the L here, which leads to a trail to the summit. Photo looks NW.

On the single track trail, getting close to the top. Photo looks N.

Aspens, pines and deadfall! The top of Spearfish Peak was sort of a mess, and didn’t provide much in the way of views. The true summit was a big gray rock with a brass survey benchmark fastened to it a foot or two below the high point. Just W of this rock sat a large gray box sporting a solar panel and a small, thin antenna.

**True summit of Spearfish Peak**. Survey benchmark visible lower R. Photo looks NW.

**True summit** and **survey benchmark** (R). Photo looks N.

Kind of a mess due to the deadfall, but not too bad. Lupe still on the **true summit**. Photo looks ENE.

Despite the fairly dense forest, a few narrowly restricted distant views existed. Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) and Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) could both be seen off to the S, but not from any point where Lupe could get into the picture. A glimpse of Little Crow Peak (5,885 ft.) and part of Spearfish Canyon was available from a spot a little W of the true summit.

**Terry Peak** (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Little Crow Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW.

There was a need for speed, if Lupe still hoped to climb Little Crow Peak today. Even so, SPHP allowed her to linger up on Spearfish Peak for nearly half an hour. No sense in coming all this way, and not getting to savor the moment, at least to some degree. The last chocolate coconut bar vanished along with the last apple. The Taste of the Wild supply took a major hit, too.

Minutes came and went at breakneck speed. Suddenly Lupe was poised again atop the true summit of Spearfish Peak (5,800 ft.). A last photo, and Onward! Puppy, ho!

Final moments atop **Spearfish Peak**. Photo looks NE.

On the way back by the same route, Bear Butte was still in sunshine as Lupe started the trek S from Spearfish Peak. That didn’t stop winter from taking a shot. Overhead, the sky darkened. Several times snow granules massed for the attack, but they were tiny and didn’t have the numbers to accomplish anything. Plunging to earth like minuscule white meteors, they melted and were gone.

Bear Butte again. Photo looks ENE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Little Crow Peak** (R of Center) from 1.25 miles S of Spearfish Peak. Photo looks SW.

3:57 PM, 0.6 mile ESE of Little Crow Peak – Still light out, but the sun was close to the horizon when Lupe reached a grassy road that veered off to the R (NW) 250 yards after passing the ancient bus. This long forgotten road, which left USFS Road No. 186 before it started back down into Spearfish Canyon, wound its way WNW toward Little Crow Peak.

Without it, Loopster would never have gotten to the SE slope in time to race up as fast as SPHP could struggle through the thick underbrush of a mixed pine and aspen forest.

On the grassy road leading to **Little Crow Peak** (Center). Photo looks W.

The climb wasn’t a big one, maybe 200 feet of elevation gain, but when Lupe reached the first rocks at what had appeared to be the top, the view was confusing. 300 feet off to the N or NE was a clearly higher rock formation. It seemed like Lupe had come up the S or even the SW slope, when SPHP had been pretty sure she’d been climbing from the SE.

At the first rock formation reached near the apparent summit (Center) of Little Crow Peak. Photo looks NNE?

No time to worry about an explanation for that now. Light was fading, and the view was distressing for another reason. SPHP remembered that Little Crow Peak had been somewhat of a mess due to deadfall when Loop had been here before, but it was really bad now. As fast as possible, which wasn’t fast at all, Lupe and SPHP struggled through the maze toward the apparent summit.

The sun had just vanished when the Carolina Dog got there, the horizon still lit up with a lingering orange glow.

The sun is gone as Lupe reaches the second high point. Photo looks WSW.

Egads! This wasn’t the true summit either. Another rock formation a good 10 feet higher could now be seen 300 feet farther N. Worse yet, the deadfall between here and there was absolutely horrendous. The light was going fast as Loop and SPHP clambered carefully over or under the obstacle course. No going around anything, that just wasn’t possible.

This had better be the summit! The light was fading so fast that Lupe was going to have to retreat soon. Too many steep slopes that dropped hundreds of feet into oblivion in too many directions to risk not being able to find the way back to the grassy road.

4:36 PM, summit of Little Crow Peak – Yup! This was it! Still light enough to tell that the intrepid American Dingo actually had reached the true summit of Little Crow Peak (5,885 ft.). Lupe was now poised atop the highest rock. The camera was very light sensitive, but it was getting so dark that photos now looked fuzzy.

The true summit of Little Crow Peak, perhaps due to being reached in a frantic rush in the nick of time, seemed like a cool place. Destroyed by pine bark beetles, the forest was completely shattered to the S and W, opening up the views. Elsewhere, the surviving forest was still thick enough, and now dark enough, to hide whatever was out there.

Really was a shame that Lupe hadn’t climbed Little Crow Peak earlier. 5 minutes to enjoy her success, and that was it. Gotta get out of here!

**Cement Ridge (6,674 ft.)** on the horizon beyond Lupe’s head. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Final moments atop **Little Crow Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Leaving the summit, Lupe found a short ramp to the S that enabled her to skip a lot of the worst of the deadfall. However, she needed to go E to get back down to the grassy road. Stars were appearing, the last of the light almost gone. The sky was still somewhat light, but the forest and ground were virtually invisible.

The descent became one of confusion and constant second-guessing. The flashlight had to come out. Everywhere the mountain dropped away. SPHP decided Loop was too far S, then too far N. Nerve-wracking for a while, but at last the slope wasn’t so steep. Must be on track. Sure enough, the grassy road appeared ahead.

Still a couple of miles to go, but the rest would be easy. Loopster could follow old USFS Road No. 186 all the way back down to Cleopatra Place at the start of the Devil’s Bathtub trail without having to return to Squaw Creek. Cross the bridge over Spearfish Creek, and she’d be 0.25 mile from the trailhead and the G6.

Success assured, stars glittering in the now clearing night sky, Looper sniffed ahead, sometimes revealed by the weak beam of the flashlight, sometimes cloaked in the black void. (End 7:00 PM, 31ºF)

**Little Crow Peak**, Black Hills of South Dakota 11-19-20

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 171 – Little Crow Peak & Spearfish Peak (5-7-16)

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Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 257 – Inyan Kara (11-7-20)

8:57 AM, 61ºF, Hunter Ranch at the end of Crook County Road No. 198 –

Wish you hadn’t brought the dog!

Doug Hunter, owner of the ranch that Lupe needed permission to cross to get to Inyan Kara Mountain (6,360 ft.), was soft-spoken. A tall, older man, he didn’t look entirely well. His face had a reddish-purple cast to it. SPHP felt a little bad about showing up unannounced to ask this favor of him. The softly smiling reply was a bit sheepish.

Well, I did.

Doug sighed.

I’ll tie up my dog then. If I don’t, he’ll follow you.

Thank you, so much! By the way, we brought you a present.

You didn’t have to do that.

It is your land. Realize that we’re asking you a favor, so thought we better come prepared to do a little something for you, too. It’s nothing much. Hang on a moment.

Opening the trunk of the G6, SPHP produced a 6 pack carton of Corona Extra. Doug seemed surprised, maybe even faintly pleased, but said nothing. He didn’t turn it down, though, when SPHP handed it to him. A truck pulled up, as Doug accepted the gift.

They’re here for Inyan Kara, too.

Hunters?

No, hikers like you.

Doug went to tie up his black and white salt and pepper-coated dog, which was about the same size as Lupe and showing a lot of interest in her. SPHP parked the G6 near the fence close to the house, let Lupe out, and grabbed the backpack. As the Carolina Dog passed by, Mr. Hunter was chatting with the new arrivals.

We’ve established a no pet policy. One dog got bit by a rattler, and another was attacked by a badger. The owners wanted to blame us.

Yikes! Awkward! Maybe that young couple had a dog, too, had called ahead, and been told not to bring it? Clearly, Doug had been expecting them. Waving cheerily, but briefly, SPHP stepped up the pace.

Thanks again! We’ll be out of your hair in just a few minutes.

Making it to the end of the fence around the ranch house yard, Lupe turned W following a dirt road down into a little dry creek bottom, then up the other side. In bright sunshine, Inyan Kara loomed ahead. Not all that far to the fence line marking the boundary of the Hunter ranch, and start of the isolated 2 square miles of Black Hills National Forest on which the mountain sat.

Even after ducking under the fence, Lupe and SPHP hurried on, angling NW now toward the trees. Out of sight, out of mind!

**Inyan Kara** on the way to the Hunter ranch. Photo looks WNW.

Glancing back at the Hunter Ranch headquarters after ducking under the fence onto Black Hills National Forest land. Photo looks E.

On the lower E slope heading for the trees. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the forest, Lupe continued NW for a little way, still climbing gradually. When SPHP figured she’d gone far enough, it was time to turn W straight up the steep slope leading to the top of the E ridge. Loop was soon there, popping up onto the ridgeline near a minor rock formation. Inyan Kara’s summit was already in sight only 0.5 mile away.

Getting close to the top of the E ridge. Photo looks WSW.

**Inyan Kara summit** (Center) from the E ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Looper was going to have to go a lot farther than 0.5 mile, though, to get to the top of Inyan Kara. The igneous mountain, an ancient wanna-be volcano that never erupted, is shaped like an elongated horseshoe, or an enormous, partially coiled serpent. A V-shaped valley hundreds of feet deep was between the American Dingo and the summit.

This E ridge was part of the serpent’s tail. Loop would have to travel the length of the serpent’s coiled spine clear around to the S and SW before heading NE to the summit. Before doing all that, Lupe wandered a little farther N to where the serpent’s tail began to drop more steeply. Her clockwise journey around to the summit would start from here.

Lupe as far N along the E ridge as she went. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe started the journey S, the forested ridge was narrow, but nicely rounded. Minor rock outcroppings protruded at various points like petrified serpent vertebrae. Slowly, but steadily, Loop gained elevation as she went, occasionally coming to minor dips and high points along the way. An even higher spot was always reached a little farther on.

Tree effectively blocked the views, but every now and then, Loop came to small openings where she could see off into the distance. At first, all of these openings looked E or SE out over the plains surrounding Inyan Kara. From the first of these openings, the main body of the Black Hills looked like little more than a long blue ridge. Farther on, the piney tablelands of the Sweetwater Mountains High Point (6,440 ft.) were discernable on the SE horizon.

Starting the clockwise journey around the long outer ridge. Photo looks S.

The **Black Hills of South Dakota** from Inyan Kara. Photo looks E.

**Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (Center – the most distant ridge). Photo looks SE.

Another look at the **Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (Center – most distant ridge). Photo looks SE.

Lupe was SE of the summit by the time she got her next look at it. From this angle she had the best view of the columnar jointing on the S face of the summit region she would have all day. Although not as spectacular, Inyan Kara bore a certain resemblance to Devils Tower (5,112 ft.), NE Wyoming’s most famous and dramatic mountain.

S face of the summit region. Photo looks NW.

Columnar jointing is a relatively rare geologic feature. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Inyan Kara had not escaped a pine beetle infestation that hit the Black Hills region more than 10 years ago. Considerable quantities of deadfall timber were strewn along the ridge. As Lupe turned W along the S part of the ridgeline, she had to dodge more and more deadfall. Many broken tree trunks amidst this shattered mess were laying perpendicular to her direction of travel, greatly slowing SPHP’s progress.

The weather was deteriorating, too. What had started out as a sunny morning had clouded over to a considerable degree, especially toward the S. An early gentle breeze was now a 15 to 20 mph wind sweeping in out of the SW. SPHP kept an eye on some of the more threatening trees still standing in the swaying, creaking forest.

At the S end, Lupe came to broader grassy region. For the first time, she could now see the plains SW of Inyan Kara. Turning NW to explore the SW part of the ridge, the deadfall was really icky, and the Carolina Dog had to put up with the full force of the SW breeze roaring up the slope.

The wide grassy region at the S end of the ridgeline. Photo looks SW.

Traveling the SW ridge. What a mess! Photo looks WNW.

**Summit** (L) view from the SW part of the ridge. Photo looks NE.

View to the SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Beyond the worst of the deadfall, Lupe came to a dip in the ridgeline and another, smaller grassy spot. This led to a short climb, culminating at forested HP6262, the highest point along the Inyan Kara serpent’s body.

In the second grassy region, on the way to **HP6262**. Photo looks NW.

At **HP6262**. **Summit** (Center) in the background. Photo looks NE.

The serpent’s neck had been crushed. To get to the head (summit!), which was now off to the NE, but not easily seen due to all the trees, Lupe had to descend 130 feet into a wide saddle leading to Inyan Kara’s N ridge. She was happy to do so. This descent immediately got her into the leeward protection of the ridge and out of the wind.

The downslope was full of deadfall, slowing progress again, but even so, Lupe was soon approaching the bottom. The highest part of the saddle was also littered with deadfall. However, by staying toward the SE, Loop was able to cross the saddle in nearly obstacle-free open forest. A few minute’s tramp, and the American Dingo stood confronted by the first rock formations of the N ridge.

Near the highest part of the saddle leading to the N ridge. Photo looks N.

A bit farther SE in an almost deadfall-free zone. Photo looks E.

Approaching the **SW end of the N ridge**. Photo looks E.

Inyan Kara’s N ridge was much rockier than the long outer spine of the serpent Lupe had just come from. Exactly where to start up wasn’t clear, and maybe didn’t make much difference, although it seemed to SPHP it might be best not to start too close to the S end. Picking a spot just N of some thin-layered rock formations, Lupe began her ascent.

Open lanes strewn with pine needles existed among the rocks, making for a fairly easy, though somewhat steep, trek higher. Upon regaining the elevation she’d lost on the way down to the saddle from HP6262, Looper reached an initial top at HP6285. To the S, she already had a good view of the ridge she’d traveled to get here. Off to the NNE, she could once again see Inyan Kara’s summit.

Among the first rock formations encountered along the N ridge. Photo looks NNE.

At **HP6285**. The long ridge Loop had traveled to get here (from L all the way to the R), is the closest one beyond her. **Sweetwater Mountains High Point** (R of Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks SE.

**Summit** (L) from **HP6285**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe and SPHP were taking a look around from HP6285, the young couple that had arrived shortly before Loop left the Hunter ranch caught up. A quick exchange of greetings, and they pressed on ahead.

Lupe was soon hot on their trail. The summit was only 0.25 mile away now, and not even 100 feet higher. However, the route N following breaks among knobby rock formations was up and down with several steep or narrow spots along the way. The top of the ridge was rough enough so it was often best to stay somewhat below it, usually toward the E overlooking the deep central valley.

Among the rock formations. Photo looks N.

Making progress. Up on top of the ridge at the moment. Photo looks NNE.

*Getting there!* **Summit** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

At one point, a large rock formation provided a break in the trees. Both Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.) were faintly visible on the far NW horizon.

**Missouri Buttes** and **Devils Tower** (visible if expanded) both L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Just before the final rocky spurt to the summit, Lupe came to a big dip requiring a bit of a down climb. The young couple were already beyond the dip, paused not far below the top, as Loopster approached.

Closing in on the summit. Photo looks NE.

In a rocky gully just shy of the top. Photo looks NNE.

The young man pushed on as Lupe passed the woman, who remained where she was. Up a little rocky ramp, and the Carolina Dog was there! On top of Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.), Lupe and SPHP met Marcus Neiman. He’d already removed the rocks of a cairn located a little W of the true summit.

Roughly carved into the bedrock where the cairn had been was an item of historical significance. “74 Custer”. The inscription had been here for more than 146 years, since July 23, 1874, when an expedition led by Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer had been in the Black Hills searching for gold.

Looper by the **“74 Custer”** inscription. Photo looks NW.

SPHP asked Marcus about the young woman with him.

She’s just nervous about this last part? She’s practically here already! A shame to come so far, get so close, and not make it to the summit. Really nothing to it now. Mind if Lupe and I talk to her? We’d just like to give her a little encouragement. No question she can do this!

Marcus had no objection.

What’s her name?

Martina.

Lupe and SPHP returned to where Martina sat in a partially sheltered spot below a juniper bush. She couldn’t have been any more than 15 or 20 feet lower than the true summit, or 100 feet from it, but the top wasn’t visible from where she waited.

What could be seen of the rocky ramp higher might seem a bit exposed to someone not used to the mountains. In fairness, Inyan Kara’s N ridge, which Martina had already come across, was more intimidating than the vast majority of mostly gentle peaks in the Black Hills region. The gusty SW wind was blowing up here, too, which couldn’t have been helping matters.

Despite Lupe’s calming presence, and SPHP’s attempts to reassure her, Martina repeatedly said she was fine with staying right where she was. Her choice, of course. SPHP was about to give up when an idea struck. The problem was that short, but psychologically intimidating, rocky ramp higher into the wind and the unknown. Was there another route?

Climbing only a few steps N past the juniper bush, there was! Piece of cake! Martina could even see the critical part from right where she was. Not expecting any miracles, SPHP pointed out that, if she could get to where SPHP stood only a dozen feet from her, Martina had Inyan Kara made. The rest was even easier.

A moment’s hesitation, then without saying a word, Martina stood up. Something inside had clicked! Literally 2 minutes later, though perhaps still a bit nervous, Martina was standing, smiling and hugging with her husband, at the true summit of Inyan Kara.

Congratulations, were in order, of course! Then a few photos. SPHP had the temerity to ask Martina if she liked coconut?

Yes …

How about chocolate?

Martina shot SPHP an incredulous look.

Yeeessss …

3 small chocolate coconut bars were in the backpack. SPHP offered one each to Martina and Marcus, then split the remaining one with an eager Dingo.

At the true summit with **Martina** and **Marcus**. Photo looks ESE.

A registry was in a round plastic bin tucked under a juniper bush along the N edge 10 feet from the true summit. Somehow, the upper edge of the registry notebook had been gnawed away. Marcus and SPHP both created new entries.

A couple of survey markers were up here, too. One was 10 feet W of the true summit. The other, stamped with an arrow, was 15 feet NE.

Half a dozen miles W of the main body of the Black Hills, Inyan Kara stood in grand isolation out in the high prairies of E Wyoming, part of a line of mostly smaller hills. Sweeping views in all directions, although a bit murky on this unsettled day.

Marcus said he had climbed Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.). Surprising! The buttes were on private property, so SPHP was under the impression that only a limited number of people had ever been there.

Zoomed in on **Missouri Buttes** (L) and **Devils Tower** (R). Photo looks NW.

Marcus and Martina were soon ready to go. After Marcus rebuilt the cairn over “74 Custer”, they bid Lupe farewell and were on their way.

The rebuilt cairn hiding **“74 Custer”** is in front of Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Alone again. Lupe had been here once before on a November day, nearly 6 years ago. SPHP had seen her old entry in the registry, still there and legible on a page now smudged and dirty. That had also been a gray, windy day, but colder, darker, and even windier than this one. SPHP encouraged Looper to pose as she had stood back then, buffeted by the breeze with clouds approaching out of the SW.

In the November breeze again on **Inyan Kara**. Photo looks SW.

6 years gone, a sobering thought. Who knew if the Carolina Dog would ever return to Inyan Kara again? What once was, is no more.

146 years ago when someone inscribed “74 Custer” up here, this had still been Sioux territory. Lupe might have seen bison on the prairies below. Despite the coming huge Native American victory at Little Bighorn in June, 1876, that had all been about to change forever. By the end of 1877, with the surrender of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, no numerous native tribe still roamed freely in the United States.

As the afternoon wore on, the winds died down. Clouds sailed away. The day became sunnier and warmer. On a remote sacred mountain, Lupe lingered.

Upper NE end of the summit region. **Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.)** (L). Photo looks NE.

On a clear day, it might be possible to see the Bighorn Mountains far to the W, but Loop saw no sign of them today. A second somewhat lower region of the summit area was hidden in forest off to the E. Together, Lupe and SPHP went over to explore it. Cactus! Had seen only a little of it back near the true summit, and none on the way up, but there was a fair amount of it way out at the E end.

Loopster got a couple of small, but painful cactus spines in one of her paws. SPHP pulled them out, but she had had it! The American Dingo demanded SCOP (Standard Cactus Operating Procedure) from then on as long as she was in this region. She wouldn’t budge unless SPHP either carried her, or explored ahead before giving her the signal indicating that the route was cacti-free!

Lower E end of the Inyan Kara summit region. **Hooker Peak** (far L). Photo looks NE.

*Let’s head back to the true summit. Less painful up there!* Photo looks NW.

1.5 hours after arriving, and, well, you know the drill. A final look around, and Lupe stood perched in a light breeze at the true summit of Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) for the last time. Solitude, beauty, isolation, joy!

Back near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Last look NNW. **Missouri Buttes** (L) and **Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.)** (R) on the horizon.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Actually, SPHP led the way for the first little bit. Lupe hung out up on Inyan Kara’s summit, waiting until SPHP had already gotten a good start. She then came bounding along the rocks, catching up in a jiffy.

*Go on ahead, SPHP! I’ll be with you shortly.* **HP6262** (R). Photo looks SW.

At the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks SSW.

About to begin the descent. Photo looks NE.

The first part of the return was a retracement of the same route Looper had taken up Inyan Kara’s N ridge.

On the way down. **HP6262** (Center) on the far ridge. Photo looks SW.

Still time! Looper’s explorations of Inyan Kara weren’t over. Once the American Dingo made her way back to the saddle leading to HP6262, Lupe instead turned N, venturing into a valley she’d never seen before.

Usual sort of thing. The remote valley steepened, becoming V-shaped with plenty of deadfall to contend with. 0.75 mile later and 850 feet lower, Loop emerged from the pines as the valley widened and flattened out. She was way over on the NW side of the mountain now.

Traveling a grassy road that soon turned to dirt, the Carolina Dog circled the base of Inyan Kara clockwise, usually out on open prairie, but at times in darkening forest. Not all that late, but evening comes stealing out of the E early while stalking the weary November sun.

To the N, Peak 5475 and O’Haver Peak (5,530 ft.) across the rumpled prairie, both looking much more significant now than they had from above. To the NE, Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.), Iron Mountain (5,887 ft.) and Duling Hill (6,005 ft.), old friends Lupe had once visited before.

**Peak 5475** (L) and **O’Haver Peak** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Hooker Peak** (L), **Iron Mountain** (L of Center), and **Duling Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

Near the end, shortly before the dying day passed away, the sun cast a brief gleaming glance back as it fled into the W. The American Dingo paused. A moment of tranquil beauty.