South Dakota – Page 4 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 315 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – French Creek to Highland Creek (5-20-23)

7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –

Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!

It is! Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too. Going to be a long day, Loop.

Terrific! Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?

Nope. Probably none at all. This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long. Round trip we’ll be doing 20. That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!

Trailhead parking at the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks SW.

Thirsty, Looper?

Not terribly, SPHP. We haven’t done anything yet.

Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.

Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink. Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big. The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.

All set, Loopster? The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.

Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp. People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here. At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek. A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.

Covered stalls at the popular **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks W.

**French Creek** again at the SW end of the horse camp. Photo looks SE.

Setting out for Highland Creek on **Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks SW.

Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent. Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley. Not a cloud in the sky! SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.

Starting up the steeper side valley. Photo looks ESE.

This seems familiar, SPHP. We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?

That’s right, Loop. We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298. You’ll only remember this first part, though. It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.

Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered. Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.

Entering the **Pass No. 1 region**. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S. Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta! The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible. Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S. She would be going past it in a little while.

**Peak 5080** (R of Center) from **Pass No. 1**. Photo looks S.

Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes. This is the first, and highest, one. The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.

Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP. Must really have been a long time since we were here before.

11 years to the day, Loopster! You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever! We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip. Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.). You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts. Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.

Oh, I remember that, SPHP! Good times! That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever. You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.

Not exactly true, Looper! I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two. Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here. All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek. Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.

If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?

Hope so, Loop! Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.

Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.

At **Centennial Trail No. 89’s high point at Pass No. 1**. Photo looks WNW.

Heading down the next valley. Photo looks S.

A long, gradual slope led back into another forest. Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley. This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.

Beside the parking area where Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses the **Custer State Park Wildlife Loop**. Photo looks SW.

Starting up the next valley. Photo looks W.

The trail soon began turning S. Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2. She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.

S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all. Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope. After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow. A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.

A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E. Peak 5213 was up there!

**S of Pass No. 2**. *Talk about a walk in the park!* Photo looks SSE.

Entering the vast meadow. Photo looks SE.

**Peak 5213** (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead. A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW. A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.

That’s the hill I remember, Loop!

The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?

Yes! I’m sure of it!

We can climb it right now then, SPHP!

Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late. More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.

**Peak 5080** (Center), the **hill SPHP wanted to climb** (far R). Photo looks S.

Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent. Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it. This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade. SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.

Getting warm out, SPHP! I’m thirsty. Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.

SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.

How far have we gone now, SPHP?

Hmm. Let me check, Loop. iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.

So far, so good, SPHP!

Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster. Excellent trail, no super steep terrain. Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once. All we have to worry about is the distance. Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.

From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent. Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.

Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!

Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.

Not roses? No matter, they’ll do! Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.

You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!

Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail. Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek. The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.

Crossing the tiny seasonal creek. Photo looks ESE.

Approaching the Wildlife Loop again. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road. Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills. There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.

Across the broad valley from the Wildlife Loop Road. Photo looks N.

Going over a gentle rise near the edge of the forest. Photo looks SE.

This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts. After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow. Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.

**Pass No. 3** (L) from the edge of the meadow. Photo looks SW.

Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill. A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.

**Peak 4880** (Center) and **Peak 4840** (R). Photo looks SE.

The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E. From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.

Approaching **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks S.

10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead. A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.

The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster. Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek. Shall we take a break?

Yes, please! I need another drink, SPHP. Wearing a fur coat, you know.

After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.

Not a bad view, SPHP! How high are we here?

4,775 feet, Loop. Not as high as the first 2 passes. Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.

Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.

**CSP Road No. 7** (Center) from **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks SE.

Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road. Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope. Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo. Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.

Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek. The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.

Wading in **Flynn Creek** next to **CSP Road No. 7**. Photo looks WNW.

After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E. Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected. The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.

Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE. Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.

Heading downhill again shortly after leaving **Pass No. 4**. Photo looks SE.

Another stroll through the park! Photo looks S.

One of the trail markers. Brown wands were the most common markers, although quite a few were broken. Blue markers with arrows were often seen, too.

This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.

Arriving at **Pass No. 5**. Photo looks SE.

11:42 AM, Pass No. 5 –

How about another short break, Looper?

If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!

Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued. Lupe got a bowl of water. SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.

Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop. If they’re still there, that is.

Sounds exciting, SPHP! Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek? Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.

The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek. So, yeah. We’ve made a lot of progress.

There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance. Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.

The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5. This same road was grassy as it continued S. SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E. He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.

Hmm. That’s odd! We’re invisible! Does the trail go E from here, Loop?

Maybe. How would I know, SPHP? You’ve got a map. What does it say?

The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here. In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way. Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.

Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.

Near **Pass No. 5’s actual high point**. Photo looks NE.

On the rocks. **Peak 4830** (L), **Mount Coolidge** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again. Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines. As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead. A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.

The prairie dogs were still here!

Approaching the **prairie dog town**. Photo looks SSE.

There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day. At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach. Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town. At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.

Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley. At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point. After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.

In the flat valley **S of the prairie dog town**. Photo looks S.

Heading down to the low point N of Pass No. 6. Photo looks SW.

The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway. SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too. Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.

I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther. Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!

The end was near! The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6. Another mile ought to about do it.

As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead. Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent. When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.

Heading for **Pass No. 7** (R). Photo looks S.

View to the W from the **Pass No. 7 region**.

The **grassy ridge** (Center) beyond Highland Creek. Photo looks SW.

At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley. 200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it. Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.

Heading down into the **Highland Creek valley**. Photo looks SSW.

**Highland Creek valley** from a limestone outcropping. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself. Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.

Wading in **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE (downstream).

Near the fancy **Centennial Trail No. 89 bridge** over **Highland Creek**. Photo looks NW.

Leaving **Custer State Park**. Photo looks SSW.

The **Highland Creek trailhead** just inside **Wind Cave National Park**. Photo looks SE.

1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park –

Congratulations, Loop! We made it! Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.

And how far was it, SPHP? What does the Peakbagger app say?

9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster. Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.

A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.

Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point? No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.

Might have been! They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.

Hmm. Well, I suppose. Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?

Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!

Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park. After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.

Back in **Custer State Park**. Photo looks NE.

Cool paw Loop enjoying her required return to **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE.

Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.

An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek! However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.

Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.

80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog. Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good. Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.

We can take ’em, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster. Just watch. Pretty cool, aren’t they? Not many places you can see this!

The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends. As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.

Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way. Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now. Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it. A snake was on the trail in this same area. Happily, not a rattler.

One of two pronghorns hanging out in the Pass No. 3 vicinity.

The snake. Completely harmless, although Custer State Park does have prairie rattlers.

4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2 –

There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP! Still want to climb it?

Yes, please! Let’s do it, Looper. Still plenty of daylight left.

Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.

Heading up the grassy hill. Photo looks SW.

A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived. Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W. A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.

The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest. Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.

What does it say, SPHP?

There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”

Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?

No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them. Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?

Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP? We could have one in their honor!

Conniving Dingo! Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either. And yes, I still have one.

The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers. Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water. More peanuts for SPHP.

Relaxing by the **Bentler family memorial plaque**. Photo looks W.

11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill! Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?

We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.

6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around! The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek. She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.

Bison on the Wildlife Loop Road during the return.

Back at **French Creek**. Photo looks NE.

Fun day, SPHP! Glad we did this. Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!

Absolutely! Always a good time, Looper.

So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?

Nearly June, Loopster! The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.

Dingo Vacations!

That’s right, sweet puppy! Adventure is calling! C’mon. Let’s go home. We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.

**Bentler Family memorial plaque W of Centennial Trail No. 89**, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-20-23

“May they stay where the river runs through

The range and the sky buckskin and blue

May they ride to the end

On the wings of the wind

‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”

– Dan Tyson

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Next Trail Section N:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 313 – Centennial Trail No. 89: South from Bear Butte Lake with Cousin Laddie (2-12-23)

Where to? This was only the second full day of Cousin Laddie’s stay at Hotel Lupe, but also the last one, too. Tomorrow Laddie would already be on his way back home to Colorado. Gotta come up with something worthy of the occasion, but with a fair amount of snow in some parts of the Black Hills, what would be a good choice?

SPHP didn’t have to ponder the question long. But, of course! Why not? Both Uncle Joe and Laddie had enjoyed yesterday’s trek N from Fort Meade along Centennial Trail No. 89. They might enjoy completing that whole segment of the trail leading to Bear Butte Lake by starting at the lake, and working back toward Fort Meade. Ought to be easy to link up with the point where everyone turned back yesterday.

When Uncle Joe expressed enthusiasm for this plan, the die was cast.

10:45 AM, 49ºF, Bear Butte Lake trailhead, Centennial Trail No. 89 – Just as sunny and warm today as yesterday, but a 20 mph NW wind sweeping across the frozen lake sure made it feel colder. Joe and SPHP bundled up a bit and were fine. Lupe apparently was, too. No need to worry about Cousin Laddie under all that luxuriant Sheltie fur!

Everyone was soon ready to hit the trail, which started out heading SW along a mowed path a little way from the lake’s SE shore.

**Bear Butte** from the trailhead. Photo looks NNE.

Joe and Lupe about to head out. Photo looks W.

Crossing the mighty **Bear Butte Lake glacier** near the very start. Photo looks WSW.

**Bear Butte Lak**e with the **Black Hills** beyond. Photo looks W.

Halfway along the SE shore, Centennial Trail No. 89 went quite close to the lake. Might as well go have a look!

**Bear Butte Lake** from the SE shore. Photo looks N.

**Bear Butte** from **Bear Butte Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Joe and Laddie get in on the act. Photo looks NE.

After passing a small bay at the S end of the lake, the trail headed W out onto the prairie. Going gradually up a long rise, the trail flattened out near Hill 3204. Venturing a short distance off-trail, the hill provided a sweet view of Bear Butte Lake with Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) beyond.

Heading out onto the prairie. Photo looks W.

**Bear Butte Lake** and **Bear Butte** from **Hill 3204**. Photo looks NE.

Returning to Centennial Trail No. 89, it continued W across a featureless plain, eventually angling SW toward a ridge. From the top this ridge there was a last view of Bear Butte and Bear Butte Lake back to the NE.

**Bear Butte** and **Bear Butte Lake** from the top of the ridge. Photo looks NE.

A vast expanse of prairie was now in sight to the W with the Black Hills beyond it. Crook Mountain (4,930 ft.) was readily identifiable to the WSW past Oyster Mountain (4,040 ft.), although neither looked all that big from here.

**Oyster Mountain** (the darkly forested hill way beyond Lupe) with **Crook Mountain** (slightly L) beyond it. Photo looks W.

The most interesting view, though, was to the S. The long ridge everyone had reached yesterday from Fort Meade was 1.5 miles away. Since there was plenty of time to get over to it, a short break was taken here before continuing on. Conditions were more pleasant now, the N wind having died down somewhat.

Looking SSW toward the long, flat, grassy ridge that was today’s objective.

Soon everyone was ready to press on. Centennial Trail No. 89 went S as it now descended toward the lowlands. Near a pond, the trail reached a fence line, which it followed SW to a gate. Going through the gate, the trail became more of a faint 2 track road as it headed S again. By the time it eventually curved SW, the majority of the distance to the next ridge had already been covered.

Approaching the destination ridge. Photo looks SW.

Near the end of this stretch through the lowlands, the trail curved SE, starting up toward the same gap in the ridge to the S everyone had made it to yesterday. In this region, Cousin Laddie and Uncle Joe successfully completed their explorations of Centennial Trail No. 89 between Fort Meade and Bear Butte Lake. Nearly to the ridge now, going all the way to the top again seemed like the thing to do.

Joe and Laddie heading up to **the gap** (R). **Bear Butte** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Looking ESE down on **the gap** as Joe and Laddie complete the trek up onto the ridge.

Once up on the ridge, the plan was to take a break somewhere along the N edge. Going W along the rim, a second point jutting out toward the N seemed like a good spot. The upper E side provided some shelter from the wind, which was still blowing. This area overlooked a ravine full of snow that extended clear back down to the prairie.

Lupe and Laddie on a snowbank near the break spot. **Bear Butte** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Just like yesterday, SPHP let Laddie and Lupe split a chocolate coconut bar, followed up by as much Taste of the Wild as they wanted. Joe and SPHP had apples and Kirkland bars again. Water, of course, for anyone who wanted it.

Sweeping views of the low prairie looked like one might go on exploring forever. Only 2 miles W, the Black Hills beckoned clad in dark pines.

A small pond was in sight about 0.5 mile N out on the prairie. Although Centennial Trail No. 89 didn’t go to it, getting there would be easy. The plan for the return became to follow the long snowfield extending down the ravine, then continue across the prairie to visit this little pond.

However, what looked like a carcass was visible down along the W side of the ravine. Before everyone got underway again, Joe leashed Laddie up to prevent him from getting anywhere near it.

Joe and Laddie out on the breezy point. Photo looks NW.

The snow in the ravine was strong, supporting even SPHP’s weight. Joe and Laddie completely by-passed the carcass, but Lupe and SPHP went over for a look. The cow had been dead so long that even the Carolina Dog didn’t want a thing to do with it.

Heading down the snow-filled ravine. Photo looks NNE.

After sticking with the snow in the ravine until it ran out, the trek across the prairie to the little pond was next. A bit of cactus caused Loopster to insist upon implementing her anti-cactus strategy, which basically meant SPHP had to go first, certifying the route directly ahead was cacti-free. Only then would Lupe follow.

The little pond was frozen, of course. Uncle Joe ventured onto the ice. Cousin Laddie eventually did, too. The American Dingo and SPHP did not. The only other thing of interest here was a gnarled tree on a small barren rise just NE of the pond. Even the tree wasn’t all that fascinating, but at least Lupe and Laddie could say they’d been here.

Uncle Joe out on the ice. Photo looks NNW.

Heading E from the pond and its lone gnarled tree, Centennial Trail No. 89 was soon reached again. Rather than go back entirely along the same route, the day’s journey concluded with a detour around the N side of Bear Butte Lake on the way back to the trailhead.

This involved a trek through a campground, following a primitive road through some trees where there were big mounds of snow, and ended with a short-cut through an extensive, currently dry region of cattails.

**Bear Butte** and **Bear Butte Lake** back in sight again. Photo looks NE.

Getting close to **Bear Butte Lake**. Photo looks E.

On a snowbank near the W end of the lake. Photo looks N.

Setting out around the N side of **Bear Butte Lake**. Photo looks NE.

By 2:40 PM, the day’s outdoor adventures were over. It had been a fun time with Cousin Laddie and Uncle Joe. Although Hotel Lupe wasn’t serving dinner tonight, Grandma was throwing a Super Bowl party at her apartment.

There were lots of good things to eat! Lupe got a Busy Rib Hide. Laddie didn’t, because he had only one front tooth to chew with, his L canine that earned him his Cousin Snaggle Fang nickname, but he could have Beggin’ Strips. Both cousins also enjoyed plenty of baked chicken that SPHP doled out.

Lupe was disappointed the Dingoes weren’t even in it, but the Super Bowl was actually exciting this year! The Kansas City Chiefs defeated the Philadelphia Eagles 38 to 35 in a high-scoring duel undecided until the final seconds.

Cousin Laddie’s brief visit to Hotel Lupe and the Black Hills with Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea had been a marvelous time! Lupe and SPHP were so glad they had come, even though 2.5 happy days together had flown by all too quickly. The next morning it was sad to see them go.

No one at the time, though, realized just how extremely sad it was.

With **Cousin Laddie** & **Uncle Joe** near **Bear Butte Lake**, South Dakota 2-12-23

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Lupe & Laddie’s GPS Track to the Break Spot

Remembering Cousin Laddie

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 312 – Centennial Trail No. 312 North from Fort Meade with Cousin Laddie (2-11-22)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 149 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Fort Meade to Bear Butte Lake (12-19-15)

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 311 – The Peak 5452 Fail & Pillar Peak (1-15-23)

9:02 AM, 33ºF, Camp 5 Road (USFS Road No. 172) trailhead off Hwy 14A – Record high temperatures for the date yesterday, but you sure wouldn’t have known it from conditions at the Camp 5 trailhead this morning. SPHP parked the RAV4 in more than a foot of snow.

Arriving at the snowy Camp 5 Road trailhead. Photo looks SW.

It’s still winter here, SPHP!

Going to be winter for a while yet, Loopster. Still January, about as wintry as it gets. Supposed to warm up some again today, though, although not as much as it did yesterday. You still want to go, don’t you?

Oh, of course I do, SPHP. Where are we off to?

Peak 5452, Looper!

Peak 5452? Sounds like another Lists of John 300+ foot prominence peak. In fact, I sort of vaguely remember that we were driving around looking for access to a Peak 5452 last fall. Am I right, SPHP?

Indeed, you are, Loop! We drove up Peedee Gulch one day thinking Peak 5452 would be a short easy romp from the W. However, turned out it was all private property over that way, a big housing subdivision. So this time we’re going to come at it from the NE, a much longer route, but hopefully we won’t have to be traipsing through anyone’s front yard.

Crossing Camp 5 Road, Lupe set out taking a shortcut down into the Boulder Creek drainage, which was full of snow, but otherwise dry. A 40 foot climb up the opposite bank, and the Carolina Dog popped out on USFS Road No. 172.1G, which was also quite snowy.

Wow, a lot more snow around than I expected, Loopster! We might be in for quite a time today.

I like the snow as long as it doesn’t get too deep, SPHP. Which way now?

We go W from here all the way to the end of No. 172.1G, Loop. 0.5 mile should get us to Two Bit Creek.

Following tire tracks where the snow had been compressed, Lupe trotted W with relative ease as the road wound through the woods paralleling the course of the Boulder Creek drainage. This was a beautiful trek, but not nearly as peaceful as it looked. Traffic roared along Hwy 14A on the opposite N side of the valley.

The last tire tracks ended 0.25 mile in. Traveling through the foot deep snow now required greater effort. No. 172.1G eventually curved SW and ended at a sign.

Beyond the last tire tracks. Photo looks SW.

At the end of USFS Road No. 172.1G. Photo looks SW.

“Area restriction, unauthorized route, no motor vehicle use yearlong”. We’re golden, Looper. You aren’t motorized are you?

I’m 1 Dingo power, SPHP.

Don’t think that counts. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Beyond the sign, what was left of USFS Road No. 172.1G dipped into the Two Bit Creek drainage. No surface water, but even more snow here.

Start of the trek up **Two Bit Creek**. Photo looks SW.

OK, Looper, now we just follow Two Bit Creek upstream. 2 miles at most, depending on how much winding around there is. That should get us to a mile long climb up Peak 5452’s NE ridge, and we’ll be there!

As the American Dingo explored the Two Bit Creek valley, the snow was often deep enough down along the dry streambed to make travel much slower and more difficult than expected. Two feet deep in some places, three in a few spots!

Heading up the **Two Bit Creek streambed**. Photo looks W.

Attempting to avoid some of the deepest snow, while cutting off some distance as the stream looped around, at times Lupe roamed regions above one bank or the other. The snow usually wasn’t as deep when that was possible, but it often wasn’t. In some places, Two Bit Creek ran along the base of scenic limestone cliffs.

Near the end of USFS Road No. 172.1G, there’d been signs about mining claims in this area. They warned against anyone else, presumably even Carolina Dogs, attempting to extract any minerals. More mining claim notices appeared as Lupe’s journey continued. She ignored them all.

Passing a mining claim notice (L). Photo looks SSW.

Don’t know why, but I’ve never really been inclined to start mining, SPHP.

Nothing to worry about, Loop. I’d be surprised if you were.

In truth, there was little evidence the mining claim owners really had much interest in mining, either. Not entirely true, though. Looper did pass one upturned plastic cart next to a small exploration dig.

Heart of the Two Bit Creek mining industry.

Two Bit Creek went on for what seemed like a long way. Now far from the highway, Lupe explored a quiet, wonderfully secluded region.

Down along the streambed again. Photo looks SW.

Exploring a flat region above the stream bank. Photo looks WSW.

Eventually, a snow-free spot was found well above the streambed. This was the first opportunity to sit down and take a break. Looper wasn’t hungry yet, but was happy to curl up on SPHP’s lap.

How much farther to Peak 5452, SPHP?

According to the Peakbagger app on our new iPhone, we’re still only about halfway to the start of the NE ridge, Loop.

Beyond the break spot, the Two Bit Creek trek continued in a similar manner for quite a way. Eventually, the valley began to broaden out. Climbing the S bank of the streambed, Lupe reached a large flat region that wasn’t as thickly forested. Somewhat surprisingly, vehicle tracks were visible in the snow only a little farther S.

In a flat region **S of Two Bit Creek**. Photo looks SSW.

Going over to the tracks, they wound E or W through the forest.

On what might have been a road again beneath the snow. Photo looks W.

Wonder where this goes, SPHP?

Not sure, Looper. Certainly easier than following Two Bit Creek, though. Head W. That will get us closer to the start of Peak 5452’s NE ridge.

The Carolina Dog made excellent time along the snowy tracks. Soon an intersection appeared. Partially hidden by trees, a house was now in view ahead.

Uh-oh! We’re either on, or coming to, private property, Loop. That house is right where we want to go, too. We need to get around it somehow.

Which way then, SPHP? The tracks go either N or SW from here.

Peak 5452 is SW, Loop. Go that way. N won’t do us any good.

The terrain rose gradually as Lupe followed the tracks SW. A snow-free stretch soon revealed that this really was some kind of a primitive road.

It wasn’t far to another junction along the edge of a ravine. Another house was now in sight on the hillside W of the ravine.

Well, shoot! We’re cut off from where we need to go, Loop. Apparently this whole valley is part of a subdivision.

So what now, SPHP? Is our goose cooked on Peak 5452?

Kind of looking that way, Loopster.

A road or track of some sort went SE up a steep slope from here.

Looking up the steep track. Photo looks SE.

Let’s go that way, Loop. There are still a couple of these big ravines W of us that we need to get past. Their sides are so steep that we aren’t going to be able to get over the ridges between them with so much snow around, but maybe this route will wind through it all somehow?

As Lupe climbed SE up the steep track, it seemed to be the only realistic hope of ever getting to Peak 5452 today. After gaining a fair amount of elevation, the track leveled out and turned SW again, an encouraging sign. Maybe this was actually going to work?

Approaching the curve SW. Photo looks S.

However, the track soon curved S again. A small sign was ahead.

No trespassing! We actually did stray onto private property, Looper.

Are we going to get into trouble, SPHP?

Doubt it. No harm done, and we’re off it now. Never meant to intrude, and we won’t be back, so this should be the end of it.

By the No Trespassing sign. Photo looks NNE.

The news still wasn’t good. Although the track continued on from here, it went S staying on the E side of the ravine. Any attempt to cross the ravine, and go W up and over the heavily forested steep slope beyond it looked like an unrewarding task.

We’ve struck out on Peak 5452 today, haven’t we, SPHP?

Yeah, I think this is it for Peak 5452. Not a decent route in January. It will get dark on us during the return if we try to force our way over these hills and ravines to get there. Won’t be much fun without a trail to follow.

So now what? How do we get back to the trailhead, SPHP? Can’t go back the way we came without trespassing again.

Oh, don’t worry about that. We aren’t going back that way. Want to climb Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.), Loop? It’s only about a mile S. No access issues, and we already know a good route back to the trailhead from there.

Pillar Peak? I’m all for it, SPHP! At least we’d get to climb something.

According to the topo map, the best route to Pillar Peak from here was to climb SE entirely out of the ravine, then turn S along a broad ridge that would ultimately lead first to the mountain’s somewhat lower E summit. Although no road or trail went that way, this route began as a pretty easy climb. Not all that steep, and not much snow around, either.

Sniffing her way through the forest, Lupe hadn’t gone much farther when a Black Hills National Forest boundary sign appeared.

Officially re-entering the national forest.

Gosh, were we still on private property, SPHP?

Guess so, hard to tell without any fences, Loop. There’s a survey marker here, so we ought to be officially back in the national forest now.

Continuing SE, the terrain nearly leveled out. Time to turn S! Lupe led the way, roaming easily through an area thick with dog hair pines that slowed SPHP’s progress considerably.

Beyond the dog hairs, SPHP was able to make much better progress. A gradual climb resumed, which led to a big clearing full of snow. Parts of the upper regions of Pillar Peak were now in sight ahead. From here, Pillar Peak looked like just a couple of forested hills.

Continuing S in a somewhat more open forest. Photo looks S.

**Pillar Peak** (E summit L, true summit R) from the clearing. Photo looks SSW.

Avoiding the snow as much as possible, Lupe continued S along the edge of the clearing heading toward Pillar Peak’s E summit. The rate of climb began increasing again. After gaining a few hundred feet of elevation, the Carolina Dog reached a drop-off along the E side of the mountain. From a big snowbank, she now had a much better view of the E summit than the one she’d had from the clearing.

Beyond the snowy clearing, heading for Pillar Peak’s E summit. Photo looks S.

Closing in on the **E summit** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

The E summit wasn’t much farther or higher now. Swinging around to the SW to avoid most of the snow along the edge of the mountain, there was quite a bit of deadfall to contend with. The discovery of a deer skull was of interest to the American Dingo. SPHP preferred the view of Peak 5400 across the deep valley to the SE.

A bit closer to **Pillar Peak’s E summit** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

**Peak 5400** (R). Lupe had been there a year and 2 days ago. Photo looks SE.

A final short, steep climb got Lupe up to the E summit region. Where she first reached it, she enjoyed a nice, distant view of Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) off to the NE.

**Bear Butte** (R of Center) out on the prairie beyond the Black Hills. Photo looks NE.

The actual E summit was only a short uphill stroll from this viewpoint. Only took a minute or two to get there.

Almost there! **Pillar Peak’s E summit** (Center). Photo looks SW.

On **Pillar Peak’s E summit**. Photo looks S.

1:24 PM, Pillar Peak E summit – Although Lupe had been to Pillar Peak on 3 prior occasions, this was the first time she had ever visited the E summit, which had remained a mystery. Now the Carolina Dog stood on the highest boulder among a collection of others along the edge beneath a sullen sky. Hidden by pines, Pillar Peak’s true summit wasn’t in view from here, but Loop enjoyed an open panorama from the S all the way around to Bear Butte to the NE.

**Bear Butte** (L) from the **E summit**. Photo looks NE.

Wow! This is sweet, SPHP. What a great view of Peak 5400 across the valley!

Glad we came here, Loopster! Pillar Peak’s E summit really is pretty cool. Always wondered what it was like. See that road down in the valley? We’ll be taking it on our way back to the trailhead later on.

**Peak 5400** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

This is already better than a lot of hills we climb in the Black Hills, SPHP. We ought to celebrate!

Uh-huh! By which you mean, we ought to share chocolate coconut bar, I presume, conniving Dingo!

The thought did cross my mind, SPHP. You wouldn’t happen to have one in the pack, would you?

SPHP did. Sitting down together on a bed of pine needles next to the boulders, the Carolina Dog’s wish came true. SPHP stroked her soft ears.

I like this spot, Loop. Let’s just hang out here for 10 minutes, take a break.

It was a nice, relaxing time together, but 10 minutes shot by like nothing at all. Eh, maybe 15?

OK, time to finish this. To the true summit, Loop! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Leaving **Pillar Peak’s E summit**. Photo looks ENE.

The true summit wasn’t far away at all, no more than 0.2 mile. Lupe lost maybe 60 feet of elevation going down to the broad saddle leading to it, then began an easy climb.

In the saddle leading to the **true summit** (R). Photo looks W.

Having been here before, the American Dingo knew what to expect. Long ago, fire must have swept over Pillar Peak’s true summit region. Surprisingly little remained of any dead trees. This made Pillar Peak a more striking summit and an excellent viewpoint.

Approaching **Pillar Peak’s true summit**. Photo looks WNW.

1:54 PM, 43ºF, Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.) – Pillar Peak’s true summit was an interesting place, and a bit unusual for the Black Hills. A maze of rock formations a few feet high were separated by lanes of grass resembling intentionally designed walkways. Lupe easily leapt up onto the highest rock, completing her 4th ascent.

The premier view was of Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) with its ski runs off to the SW. With snow on the hills, it stood out particularly well today.

At the **true summit**. **Terry Peak** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

A lot to see in other directions, too, but all that could wait. Loopster had her whole traditional summit hour to spend up here. First it was time for a longer rest break. And lunch! Sitting down on the dry grass near the true summit, SPHP brought out another much anticipated chocolate coconut bar, Taste of the Wild, water, and an apple.

Lunch time on **Pillar Peak**. **Dome Mountain** (L), **Terry Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

The second chocolate coconut bar of the day had already bit the dust, and the Taste of the Wild was still in the process of being gobbled up, when a sudden breeze arose from out of the SW. Hadn’t been any wind at all when Lupe first got here only 5 or 10 minutes ago.

We better finish eating pretty quick, Looper. Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) was in sight only moments ago. Now I don’t see it at all. Weather’s coming in!

Probably just a snow shower that wouldn’t amount to much of anything. Hadn’t been much precipitation expected in the forecast, but SPHP kept an eye on it while munching on that apple. Meanwhile, Lupe finished her Taste of the Wild.

Soon the breeze felt colder. Deer Mountain (6,652 ft.) was gone now, too, and it looked like snow was starting to envelop Terry Peak, as well.

If you want any pictures, SPHP, maybe we better start getting them now?

We think alike, Looper! Come on! Time for your Pillar Peak summit tour!

Since the snow shower was coming from out of the SW, concentrating on Terry Peak, Bald Mountain (6,617 ft.), Dome Mountain (5,512 ft.), and Bear Den Mountain (5,642 ft.) all to the S or W first made sense.

**Terry Peak** (Center), **Bald Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Bear Den Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Other directions wouldn’t be affected by the snow shower for a while yet. Flat-topped Mount Theodore Roosevelt (5,680 ft.) was visible to the NW, with both Spearfish Peak (5,800 ft.) and Crow Peak (5,787 ft.) barely in sight a little to the R of it.

**Mount Theodore Roosevelt** (L), **Spearfish Peak** and **Crow Peak** (L of Center), and **Green Mountain** (R) all on the horizon. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Theodore Roosevelt** (L), **Spearfish Peak** (R) and **Crow Peak** (far R). Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

More directly N, Whitewood Peak (5,120 ft.) stood out among lower hills. A little more to the E, Crook Mountain (4930 ft.) looked like just a large, low, forested dome. Way out on the prairie far beyond it, two little blips were on the horizon. Probably Castle Rock Butte (3,768 ft.), but might have been Deers Ears Butte (3,438 ft.).

**Whitewood Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Crook Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

And of course, Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) was easily recognizable to the NE.

**Bear Butte** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

**Bear Butte** (L of Center). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

The W end of the summit region was 20 feet lower, and featured a big grassy area. Loop and SPHP took turns going down there.

Down in the big grassy area. **Terry Peak** (L), **Mount Theodore Roosevelt** (far R). Photo looks WSW.

The wind blew harder, the temperature dropped. Wouldn’t be long now before the snow shower arrived.

When it hit, it was a nothingburger. Middle of January, and it wasn’t even snow! Rain fell for a few minutes, and that was it. Incredible! The “storm” passed, and Terry Peak came back into view. Lupe watched it all happen from the highest rock formation on Pillar Peak.

Back at the **true summit**. **Terry Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

Carolina Dog storm survivor. All 10 drops! Photo looks SW.

2:54 PM, 39ºF, Pillar Peak – An hour had gone by already! Time to say good-bye to Pillar Peak once again. SPHP started down first. Loop was supposed to wait up top for the signal, but when SPHP looked back, the American Dingo was already on her way!

Couldn’t wait for a final summit shot, aye, Looper?

You’ve got plenty already, SPHP! I’m ready for more exploring!

The Carolina Dog was more cooperative at a few more scenic spots as she left the summit region.

**Deer Mountain** (far L), **Terry Peak** (L), **Bald Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks WSW.

**Crook Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Leaving **Pillar Peak** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Then it was down the steep, rocky S slope to a saddle where Lupe turned SE on a very snowy romp down to USFS Road No. 172.1H. The road was flat as it went a short distance E to another saddle SE of Pillar Peak.

Lupe had been here before. Up a little rise to get over the pass, and with only relatively minor exceptions, it was downhill all the rest of the way.

Heading down the valley between Pillar Peak and Peak 5400. Photo looks NNE.

4:50 PM, 37ºF, Camp 5 Road trailhead – Just as Lupe reached the RAV4, it started to rain again. The Carolina Dog hopped in before she even got damp.

Pillar Peak was awesome, as always SPHP, but we never did get to Peak 5452. Wonder if we ever will?

Oh, I suspect we will, Looper, but don’t think we’ll try it again until the snow melts. Maybe in 2 or 3 months? At least we saw it today.

We did? When? You never pointed it out!

It was there, Loop. You saw it from Pillar Peak. Big forested hill only 1.25 miles due W, but it didn’t really stand out. Don’t think we’ll see much more than trees even if we do get there eventually.

We’re still going to pick it off, SPHP! I’m going to get all these Black Hills Lists of John 300+ foot prominence peaks done, or at least all the ones we can actually climb.

That’s the spirit, Loopster! We’ll try a different Lists of John peak next time out. Maybe we’ll have better luck then?

On **Pillar Peak**, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-15-23. **Peak 5452** beyond Lupe.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!