Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 245 – Peak 5438 (1-15-19)

Start – 9:56 AM, 27°F at the junction of Vanocker Canyon Road & USFS Road No. 135.2C

Snowier than SPHP expected.  Chillier, too!  Not even above freezing yet, though the day was supposed to warm up nicely for January.  Lupe was more than a mile S of the turn to Veteran Peak (5,333 ft.) at the start of a snowy side road off Vanocker Canyon Road.  An old marker declared this as USFS Road No. 135.2C.

Loop had been bored, bored, bored for days on end.  Chilly and snowy didn’t matter.  She wasn’t going to miss out on an expedition!  Conditions really weren’t bad at all.  Besides, one never knows how long it might be before the next chance for an expedition would come this time of year.

Lupe led the way past a couple of gates, proceeding N up a valley.

Chilly? Snowy? Forget it, SPHP! You’re not backing out now. We’re doing this! Lupe at the start of USFS Road No. 135.2C. Photo looks NW.

The snow was a good 6″ deep, loose and fluffy where there weren’t any tracks, crunchy and hard where there were.  The valley soon widened out.  The sun was brilliant.  SPHP stopped to shed a layer.

The valley widened out. The brilliant sunshine felt warmer than the temperature indicated. Photo looks SSE.
Looking farther up No. 135.2C from the same spot. Photo looks NNW.

Looper’s peakbagging objective for the day was Peak 5438.  According to Lists of John, the mountain has 548 feet of rise (prominence), quite good for a Black Hills peak.  Peak 5438 was less than a mile W of the snowy valley where Lupe was now, but a high ridge and another valley were between here and there.

No. 135.2C might eventually take Loop to the top of the ridge and around the N end of the valley to the W, but perhaps a more direct route could be found?  As Lupe headed up the valley, SPHP watched for an easy way up the ridge to the W.

Continuing up the valley on No. 135.2C. Photo looks NW.

After more than 0.5 mile on No. 135.2C, the last remaining tracks in the snow veered W off the road.  They started up the ridge toward a big pine tree with a curved trunk.  Why not?  Maybe this was the shortcut the American Dingo was looking for?  Lupe followed the tracks.

Leaving USFS Road No. 135.2C to start up the ridge to the W. Photo looks WNW.

The tracks ended before Lupe even got to the deformed tree.  The snow was deeper off the road, more like a foot.  The slope wasn’t all that steep, however, and Looper only needed to gain 200 feet of elevation.  So she kept going, and before long reached a big rock on a rounded edge where the terrain was leveling out.

Heading up the snowy slope. The snow was hard enough to support Looper’s weight. Photo looks S.
On the big rock near the start of flatter terrain. Photo looks ESE.

As shown on the topo map, a higher part of this ridge was visible off to the SW.  Loopster traveled W or WNW from the rock, still gaining some elevation.  The goal was to get to the other side of this ridge, where she ought to be able to see both Peak 5438 and the intervening valley.

From close to the big rock, a higher part of this ridge was visible between the trees. Photo looks SW.

Crossing the wide ridge, the Carolina Dog came to long open areas full of snow.  Logging or other minor roads may have been hidden beneath it.  Beyond these openings, Lupe got her first glimpse of Peak 5438.

Crossing the ridge, Lupe came to long snowy openings in the forest. The snow may have been concealing logging or other minor roads. Photo looks SSW.
From the W side of the first ridge, Peak 5438 was in view. Photo looks WSW.

The E slope of Peak 5438 looked steep, and the intervening valley was deeper than expected.  Not wanting to lose so much elevation crossing this next valley, Lupe turned N following the W side of the ridge she was already on.  Beyond a high spot, she came to the biggest opening yet in the forest.  Again it looked like a road must have been buried beneath the snow.

At the big snowy opening. Photo looks SE.

Lupe did not attempt to follow the hidden road.  She continued N along the W side of the ridge.  Dog-hair pine thickets slowed SPHP down.  After less than 0.25 mile, though, it was possible to see that Loop was getting close to the N end of the valley.  A snow-covered road on the far side led up toward a minor saddle.

A check of the map confirmed Lupe ought to head over to that saddle.  She would lose less than 50 feet of elevation crossing the valley here, so she went down to it.

See that snowy road (L) on the other side of the valley leading up to a minor saddle? That’s where we’re going next! Photo looks WNW.
Crossing the N end of the valley. Photo looks W.

The valley was dazzlingly bright.  Lupe trotted W across it.  She did not head directly for the snowy road leading up to the minor saddle.  She stayed on hillsides N of it, where a S exposure meant far less snow to deal with.  In some places, none at all.

Halfway up, the N hillsides became snowy, too.  Lupe finally took to the road.  She even tried crossing it and going directly up the hill to the SW, but the snow was 2 feet deep.  Returning to the road, she bounded the rest of the way up to the saddle.

Lupe was now on Peak 5438’s N ridge.  A small hill along this ridge was directly to the S, but there was no need to go clear to the top of it.  An open lane went SW from here toward another, as yet unseen, slightly higher saddle.  Lupe explored the forest near the open lane on the way to this second saddle.

Loop reaches the first minor saddle on Peak 5438’s N ridge. She would take the open lane beyond her to another slightly higher one. Photo looks SW.

From the second saddle, Looper traveled S along the W side of the hill she was circumventing.  This slope wasn’t nearly as snowy, but deadfall timber was present.  For the first time, Lupe had tree-broken glimpses of Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) far to the SW.

Heading S on the W slope of a small hill along Peak 5438’s N ridge. Photo looks S.
Lupe was now catching glimpses of Custer Peak. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Once S of the hill she had just bypassed, a long, broad incline was ahead.  All Lupe had to do now was follow it to the top of Peak 5438.  The summit was barely 0.33 mile away.

Starting up the broad slope leading to the summit of Peak 5438. Photo looks S.

Near the top, the slope of the terrain diminished.  The ridge was almost flat by the time it turned SW and began widening out even more.  The snow was 1.5 feet deep.  Looper traveled SW through the forest.  SPHP expected she would soon come to a 20+ foot rise shown on the topo map where the true summit of Peak 5438 was located.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks SSW.
Exploring the flat, forested summit of Peak 5438. Photo looks SW.

She never did.  The whole mountaintop covering quite a large area was almost completely flat.  The topo map showed a definite 20+ foot rise near the W end of the greater summit area, but Lupe arrived at the W edge of the mountain without having seen any such high point.

A second brief reconnaissance of the whole region where the 20+ foot rise was supposed to be revealed nothing at all.  Lupe hadn’t somehow missed it.  The rise didn’t exist.  Never had, either.  This summit was undisturbed.  The topo map was simply wrong.  Yet this was Peak 5438 alright.  Everything else matched up just fine.

Lupe reaches the W edge of Peak 5438 without ever finding the 20+ foot rise indicated on the topo map where the true summit was supposed to be. Photo looks S.

The highest ground did seem to be about where the topo map indicated, not far from the W edge.  A few little rocks seemed to be about as high as anything else around.  As far as could be determined, this unremarkable spot in the woods was the true summit of Peak 5438.

Lupe sits near a few scattered rocks at the true summit of Peak 5438. Photo looks NE.
Well, guess this is it. Sort of disappointing, I know. We’d been expecting something a bit more dramatic ourselves. Photo looks ESE.
Some of the highest ground near the W edge. Photo looks SSW.

Maybe Peak 5438 isn’t as high as what the topo map would lead one to believe.  Or maybe the entire mountaintop is virtually that high.  Either way, it was what it was.  The mountain was quiet and undisturbed, a pleasant place to be on a warmish January afternoon.

Lupe and SPHP took a break near the highest ground.  A rock formation along the W edge was the most interesting thing around.  Lupe climbed up on it.  Within a couple feet of being as high as the actual summit, this was a prettier spot.

This looks more noble and adventuresome, doesn’t it? Like I’ve actually climbed some kind of a mountain, instead of aimlessly wandering the forest? Photo looks W.

The rock formation provided a distant view of Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) again.  SPHP was tall enough to get a clearer look at it from another spot a little to the S.

Lupe at the same spot, with Custer Peak (L) in sight. Photo looks WSW.
SPHP was just tall enough to get this clearer view of Custer Peak (Center). Another year or two, and the pines will grow up to hide it. Photo looks SW.

Lupe laid in the sun on a patch of snow-free of ground.  She crunched up a bowlful of Taste of the Wild.  Custer Peak was about the only distant point of interest not hidden by the forest.  40 pleasant minutes of repose and quiet solitude shot by.  Time to go.

Loop and SPHP made a short trek around the S end of the summit area.  Another dog-hair pine thicket was on the SE side.  Not much to see.  Lupe started back N, the way she’d come.  An opening appeared permitting a view to the SE.

Loop discovers an opening along the SE edge of the summit area. Photo looks SE.

On the return trip to the G6, Lupe made only a couple of variations to the route she’d taken to Peak 5438.  She climbed the little hill along the ridgeline, taking a shortcut from there through snow as much as 3 feet deep down to the upper N end of the valley to the E.  On the first ridge she’d climbed, she followed a snowy road S to the biggest clearing.  She wandered the forest a bit N of where she’d been before.

The last part was all the same, though.  A snowy trek down USFS Road No. 135.2C brought Lupe back to the G6.  (1:59 PM, 41°F)

Peak 5438 hadn’t been spectacular in any way, but Lupe was happy with her expedition.  At least she’d explored a new place in the Black Hills.  These precious hours had broken the monotonous spell of winter.

Winter wasn’t over yet, though.  Not by a long shot.  The Carolina Dog would be staring out the window at home many a tiresome day before spring would arrive.  Peak 5438, or most anywhere else, would sound mighty good!

Custer Peak from Peak 5438, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-15-19

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 244 – False North Point (1-5-19)

Start – 9:46 AM, 38°F along Horse Creek Road (USFS Road No. 243) near USFS Road No. 243.2J

New Year 2019 arrived on a subzero night in the Black Hills.  Things had warmed up since then.  Naturally, Lupe was anxious to get started on her 2019 adventures!  False North Point (6,130 ft.), a peak she had first visited on Halloween in 2015, was going to be her first peakbagging goal of the new year.  She might even make it to Five Points (6,221 ft.) today, with a little luck.

Lupe left Horse Creek Road on USFS Road No. 243.2J.  The snowy road wound S crossing Horse Creek 3 times, but the creek was so small that flowing water was only present on the surface at the middle crossing.  The Carolina Dog easily leapt over it.

Setting out for False North Point on USFS Road No. 243.2J. Photo looks SSW.
Nearing the last crossing of the Horse Creek drainage. Photo looks SSE.

After 0.33 mile, Horse Creek flowed E.  No. 243.2J crossed the drainage for the last time, and began curving SW up another valley.  Lupe came to a locked gate, and went under a barbed wire fence.  A small dry stock pond was just ahead where the valley forked.  No. 243.2J ended here at an intersection with USFS Road No. 669.

Lupe could take No. 669 up separate valleys going either S or W.  She stayed to the R taking the valley to the W.

No. 669 wound W, before eventually turning S.  Looper came to sunny spots, but the road was often in the shadow of forested hills.  At first, 6″ of snow was on the road, but as Lupe gained elevation, the snow became deeper, significantly slowing SPHP down.  Lupe was forced to expend more and more energy bounding through it.

This was a beautiful trek, though.  The snowy valley was quiet and still.  Lupe maintained it could have been improved with the addition of a few squirrels.  She kept a sharp eye and keen nose out, but didn’t find any.

Heading W on USFS Road No. 669.
10 minutes from the stock pond, this gate blocked the road. Lupe went under it. Photo looks W.
The N (R) side of the valley was often sunny, but the road was more apt to be in the shadow of hills to the S (L). Photo looks WSW.
Lupe enjoyed the snowy road trek, but the snow was deep enough to discourage her from spending much time exploring away from the road. Photo looks WSW.
Near this point, No. 669 started curving SW. Lupe saw a small pond and a little creek N (R) of the road here, but the rest of the long valley was dry. Photo looks W.
As the snow deepened, Loop passed some deadfall timber, but there wasn’t much of it most of the way up the valley. Photo looks SW.
The whole valley, but especially this upper part, felt very secluded. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe had been on USFS Road No. 669 several times years ago.  An odd, sublime, sense of both discovery yet vague familiarity, as though having been here before in a dream, took hold.  At last, after 1.75 miles on No. 669, Lupe reached a fork in the road that SPHP definitely recognized.  The snow was belly deep on the American Dingo here.

After 1.75 miles on No. 669, Looper reaches a fork in the road.

Loop took the fork to the L (SE), which very quickly led up to a broad saddle that was also familiar.  This saddle was strewn with a great deal of deadfall timber, the product of a severe pine bark beetle infestation a number of years ago.  Many dead pines had fallen on a barbed wire fence, collapsing it.  SPHP lifted Lupe over the dangerous fallen fence.

On the far side of the saddle, Lupe saw a forested hill ahead.

From the deadfall strewn saddle, Lupe could see a forested hill ahead. Photo looks SE.

SPHP checked the topo map.  False North Point was only 0.33 mile away!  Lupe could head directly for it by turning R and going SSW straight up the hill on the SW side of the saddle.  She could then follow False North Points’ NNE ridge directly to the summit.

Only a low forested hill, and copious deadfall timber, could be seen in that direction.  SPHP carried Lupe back over the collapsed fence.  She then began her ascent of the wretched-looking slope.

Loop still at the saddle. According to the topo map, the low hill beyond her was the way to False North Point, 0.33 mile away. Photo looks SW.

The deadfall was inconveniently laying at a 90° angle to the direction Lupe needed to go.  Her climb began slowly as SPHP laboriously picked a way up through the mess.  Enough trees were still standing to hide any views.  At first, there was nothing to see except the snowy forest.

After gaining some elevation, the deadfall thinned out.  Lupe came to a small rock formation from which she had a bit of a view.

Partway up the NNE ridge, Lupe reaches a small rock formation. Photo looks N.

Looper kept going.  The ridge wasn’t particularly steep.  Exploring the forest was fun!  The Carolina Dog had never been up False North Point from this direction before.  She came to another rock formation.  This one had a more impressive view of a wider area.

Exploring False North Points’ NNE ridge. Photo looks SSW.
A better viewpoint higher up. Photo looks NW.

The mountain steepened.  The snow was deeper.  Lupe was getting close to the top.  After toiling up a particularly steep slope, she came to much larger rock formations.  Loopster traveled along the E side of the rocks looking for the summit.

Approaching the steepest part of the climb in deep snow. Photo looks SSW.
Almost there! Lupe along the E side of large rock formations leading to the summit. Photo looks W.
Another look. Same spot.

The last part of the climb was a short scramble.  Lupe arrived at the top of False North Point (6,130 ft.) to find a cramped area of uneven rock.  The summit was a somewhat precarious perch.  Loop had no place to get comfortable or relax.  A small cairn sat upon some of the highest rocks.

The last part of the climb was a very short scramble. Photo looks W.
Success! Lupe stands at the cramped uneven summit of False North Point. Photo looks NNE.

Ponderosa pines hid the views to the SE, but False North Point provided an impressive 180° panorama to the NW.  Lupe could see many peaks she had been to recently off to the N, and a huge expanse of territory off to the W all the way to the limestone plateau country.

Looking NW from the summit. The cairn is in front of Lupe.
Looking NE. Lupe’s hind legs are on the cairn.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) (L) is the highest distant ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Looking N, Lupe could see many peaks she had visited fairly recently.
The 4 peaks in the foreground are Peak 6,167 (far L), Old Bald Peak (6,130 ft.) (L), Nugget Gulch Peak (6,000 ft.) (Center) and Peak 6043 (R). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.
I’d forgotten how amazing these views are from False North Point!

Due in part to these great views, False North Point had gotten its name back on Halloween 2015 when SPHP had mistaken this peak for the northernmost summit of Five Points (6,221 ft.), which was actually 0.5 mile SE.  Lupe had continued on to Five Points that same day, thereby quickly revealing SPHP’s error.

The true north point of Five Points was barely visible from False North Point, almost completely hidden by trees.  SPHP could get a glimpse of it, but Lupe wasn’t tall enough to see it at all.

A glimpse of the true north point (L) of Five Points (R) was all that could be seen from False North Point. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

No matter how wonderful the views, Lupe wasn’t going to balance up there on the tippy top of the mountain all day long.  She stayed near the cairn for a short while, before checking out another part of the summit formation 12 feet to the SW.  This wasn’t a much better perch.

Loop on another part of the summit knob. The cairn is out of sight 12 feet beyond her. Photo looks E.
Summit of False North Point from the SW. Photo looks NE.

The summit ridge dropped off quite sharply in most directions.  The SSW spine featured rocks that were flatter and offered essentially the same views.  Lupe headed down there.

Lupe on the spine of the summit ridge. Photo looks SSW.
On a flatter rock SSW of the true summit with an equally fabulous view. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had arrived at False North Point with enough daylight left to linger here a while.  However, the snow and deadfall had slowed things down enough to make continuing on to Five Points (6,221 ft.) a poor choice.  Conditions were pleasant and the views magnificent, so Loop and SPHP simply relaxed up on False North Point and enjoyed the day.

A happy hour shot by, and it was time to go.

Loop on her favorite perch at False North Point before moving on. Photo looks NNE.

For a change of scene, Loopster headed down the SSW ridge instead of retreating the way she had come.  Below the rocky summit, the ridge was heavily forested, but the Carolina Dog did come to a spot where she had a clear view of Five Points (6,221 ft.).

True North Point (far L), Five Points (L) and Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) (R). Photo looks SSE.

Then it was down, down through the snowy woods.  Lupe gradually turned W, then NW.  When the slope began to decrease, she emerged from the forest in a field of scattered pines and deadfall.  USFS Road No. 249 was in sight at the bottom of the slope.

W of False North Point nearing USFS Road No. 249. Photo looks WNW.
Going down the open slope. Photo looks SSW.

Upon reaching No. 249, Lupe followed it N.

On USFS Road No. 249. Photo looks N.

After nearly a mile, Loop reached an entrance to Whisper Creek Ranch, which sounded nice, but was private property.  False North Point was in view to the S from here.

At the entrance to Whisper Creek Ranch. Photo looks NNW.
False North Point from the entrance to the Whisper Creek Ranch. Photo looks SSW.

Thus far, the road had been snow-packed, but beyond the Whisper Creek Ranch entrance a metal gate blocked the rest of No. 249.  That didn’t stop the American Dingo!  Lupe continued N.  No vehicle had been here to compress the snow.

Continuing N beyond a closed gate on USFS Road No. 249. Photo looks N.

Another 0.33 mile, and SPHP figured Lupe had gone far enough N on the road.  She needed to turn E somewhere along in here.  A low bare ridge was E of the road, so Lupe climbed it.  From a minor high point, which SPHP figured was probably High Point 5686, Lupe had her final view of False North Point.

Lupe has a last look at False North Point (L) from High Point 5686. Photo looks S.

The Carolina Dog left High Point 5686 going N, but soon turned down into the valley to the E.  She had never been here before, so exploring this new valley was interesting.

Exploring the valley NE of High Point 5686.

The valley eventually led back to USFS Road No. 669, somewhat below the fork in the road where Lupe had gone L to reach the saddle NNW of False North Peak.  From here on, Loop simply retraced her route up all the way back to Horse Creek Road.  (4:17 PM, 33°F)

Only later did SPHP realize that Lupe’s snowy return to False North Point had been exactly 100 Black Hills Expeditions after her very first ascent on Expedition No. 144 way back in 2015.  Perhaps she will return again some fine day, 100 expeditions into the future?

False North Point was pretty fun! Maybe I’ll be back on Expedition No. 344? Hope to see you again here at The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe before then, though!

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