{"id":61458,"date":"2025-04-10T08:10:22","date_gmt":"2025-04-10T14:10:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=61458"},"modified":"2025-04-22T12:51:36","modified_gmt":"2025-04-22T18:51:36","slug":"shepherds-knoll-kluane-national-park-reserve-yukon-territory-canada-8-29-23","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=61458","title":{"rendered":"Shepherd’s Knoll, Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-29-23)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Days 37 & 38 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-28-23, early afternoon, Anchorage, Alaska<\/em> – It had rained all morning, the mountains lost in fog.\u00a0 SPHP put down the iPhone.<\/p>\n

Sorry, Loopster.\u00a0 Alaska is over for this Dingo Vacation.\u00a0 High probability of rain for at least the next 4 or 5 days everywhere I look.<\/em><\/p>\n

No Kenai Peninsula<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Afraid not, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

Back to the Yukon then, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah.\u00a0 Weather is supposed to be much better there.<\/em><\/p>\n

Sort of ironic.\u00a0 The smoke of the Arctic apocalypse<\/span><\/strong><\/a> had driven the Carolina Dog back to the Yukon during her first foray into Alaska this summer.\u00a0 Now rain was driving her out a second and final time.<\/p>\n

The rest of the day was a long, scenic drive.\u00a0 A hitchhiker picked up near sundown made it somewhat interesting.\u00a0 A young woman from Slovenia, who had been all over the world, was quite a talker and optimist.\u00a0 She believed she would live forever.\u00a0 Well, why not?\u00a0 At 10:30 PM, SPHP dropped Miss Positive Thinking off in Tok, her destination for the night.<\/p>\n

8-29-23, 12:33 PM<\/em> – As usual, the American Dingo had breezed through Canadian customs late this morning.\u00a0 Happily, conditions actually were better here in the Yukon!\u00a0 Now on a high bank overlooking the silt-laden White River, Horsecamp Hill<\/span><\/a> (4,600 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> was in sight.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Horsecamp Hill<\/strong> (L) from the White River<\/strong>. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Every year we say we’re going to climb Horsecamp Hill, SPHP, but we never do it.\u00a0 Why not today?<\/em><\/p>\n

I know we could, Looper, and someday we will, but since we’re back in the Yukon this early in the season, there’s an even greater adventure we can get into position for if we keep going.\u00a0 I’m thinking this is our big chance to visit Observation Mountain<\/span><\/a> (6,824 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier in Kluane National Park<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

That would be spectacular, SPHP!\u00a0 Been on my list of possibilities forever, too.\u00a0 But do you really think we can do it?\u00a0 What about Bullion Creek?<\/em><\/p>\n

Might be now or never, Loopster.\u00a0 It’s a multi-day backpacking trip for us, and getting across Bullion Creek can be a problem, but this time of year it might be running low.\u00a0 Worth a shot, isn’t it?<\/em><\/p>\n

I don’t know, SPHP.\u00a0 The White River seems to have plenty of water in it.\u00a0 Have to admit, I would love to see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, though.\u00a0 It’s huge, isn’t it?<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, yeah!\u00a0 Miles and miles long.\u00a0 The Kaskawulsh Glacier originates way up in the remote icefields of the St. Elias Mountains, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

Horsecamp Hill was almost a sure thing, while Observation Mountain was a long shot.\u00a0 Bullion Creek had a bad reputation, although the rest of the two-day trek up the Slims River valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier shouldn’t be difficult.<\/p>\n

Not that convinced Horsecamp Hill isn’t the best choice, SPHP, especially when we’re already here, but if you promise you won’t let me drown in Bullion Creek, I guess I’m willing to try for Observation Mountain.<\/em><\/p>\n

I’ll do everything possible to make sure you won’t regret it, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

Abandoning Horsecamp Hill once again, the drive S continued.<\/p>\n

8-29-23, 1:35 PM<\/em> – The Donjek was the next big river along the Alaska Highway, and near the site of one of Lupe’s most dangerous adventures ever.\u00a0 SPHP parked the RAV4 at a favorite spot overlooking the river.<\/p>\n

C’mon, Loopster!\u00a0 Let’s get out and have a look.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Parked along the Donjek River<\/strong>. Photo looks W.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wow!\u00a0 There’s a lot of water in the river, SPHP.\u00a0 I don’t think we’ve ever seen the Donjek with so much flow before.\u00a0 Look at how wide it is!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Along the Donjek River<\/strong>. Photo looks WSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

True!\u00a0 The Donjek River had always been wide, but on other occasions when Lupe had been here, most of the flow had been limited to a few braided channels among many exposed sand bars.\u00a0 Today, nearly all of the sand bars were submerged.\u00a0 Not a flood, or anything like that, but still quite impressive.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The mighty Donjek<\/strong>! St. Elias Mountains<\/strong> beyond. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

An awesome sight, but SPHP still didn’t think a thing of it beyond simply appreciating the view.\u00a0 Of course, any stop along the Donjek River these days required a stroll over toward the Alaska Highway bridge for a look at Donjek Crossing Mountain<\/strong><\/span><\/a> (5,774 ft.)<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Donjek Crossing Mountain<\/strong> (Center). Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Remember being up there, SPHP?\u00a0 What a view!\u00a0 We could see miles along the Donjek River, both upstream and down, plus some of the snowy giants of the St. Elias Mountains.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes, it was incredible up there, alright, Loop.\u00a0 What I’ll always remember most, though, was the lynx that had its eye on you for breakfast!<\/em><\/p>\n

That was a big kitty!\u00a0 Speaking of food, isn’t it about lunch time, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yup.\u00a0 Part of why we stopped here.\u00a0 Ritz crackers, cheese, and summer sausage.\u00a0 How does that sound, Looper?<\/em><\/p>\n

Good, apparently.\u00a0 The Carolina Dog was soon back in the RAV4, up on her pink blanket, munching happily away.<\/p>\n

After lunch, the drive continued.\u00a0 SPHP stopped at Burwash Creek<\/span><\/strong><\/a> so Lupe could get out for a few minutes at this possible site for the start of a future adventure, and again near the S end of Kluane Lake, only a mile or two before the turn to the Thechal Dahl visitor centre.<\/p>\n

8-29-23, 3:54 PM, Kluane Lake<\/em> – A big pullout here featured an unusual view.\u00a0 Looking SW toward the Slims River valley, Lupe could see a vast mud flat that had once been part of Kluane Lake.\u00a0 In 2016, meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier had been rerouted due to glacial retreat from the Slims River feeding Kluane Lake into the Alsek River instead, in a modern day example of stream capture<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0 The loss of all that flow had resulted in a reduction in the level of Kluane Lake, exposing the mud.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Kluane Lake<\/strong> near the mud flats<\/strong> at the end of the Slims River valley<\/strong>. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
S end of Kluane Lake<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Another view of the mud flats<\/strong>. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-29-23, 4:02 PM, SW end of Kluane Lake, Thechal Dahl visitor centre<\/em> – Rather excited by the notion that Lupe might actually get to Observation Mountain and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, SPHP approached the visitor centre hoping for additional information on the Bullion Creek crossing.<\/p>\n

Locked!\u00a0 What?\u00a0 Already?<\/p>\n

A lady said that there was a ranger around the corner of the building.\u00a0 SPHP went to talk to him.\u00a0 The short conversation was not so sweet.<\/p>\n

The visitor centre is open 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.\u00a0 We’re closed now.<\/em><\/p>\n

With that, the young ranger climbed into his park vehicle and drove off.\u00a0 15 minutes later, SPHP was chatting with a couple from Switzerland, when another young man appeared, evidently intent upon returning a large, black, clumsy-looking, bear-proof canister.<\/p>\n

Excuse me, but by any chance, have you just been to Observation Mountain or the Kaskawulsh Glacier?<\/em><\/p>\n

He had, but the news was not good.\u00a0 When SPHP asked about the Bullion Creek crossing, the young man lifted his trouser leg to reveal multiple bruises and a deeper wound.\u00a0 Bullion Creek was more than mid-thigh on him – fast, frigid, and rocky.\u00a0 He strongly advised against taking a dog.<\/p>\n

Dang!\u00a0 Should have climbed Horsecamp Hill.<\/p>\n

8-29-23, 6:35 PM, 72\u00baF, Slims West trailhead<\/em> – Lupe trotted along the broad path leading SW up the Slims River valley.\u00a0 A former road, this first part of the trail was back in the trees, away from the open valley.<\/p>\n

Isn’t this the same trail that goes to Sheep Mountain<\/span><\/a> (6,400 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

That’s right, Looper.\u00a0 The Sheep Creek trail branches off this one not too far from here.\u00a0 This is the way to Bullion Creek, Observation Mountain, and the Kaskawulsh Glacier, too.\u00a0 We’re just going to Shepherd’s Knoll, though, this evening.\u00a0 It’s not far.\u00a0 You’ve been there before.<\/em><\/p>\n

The single track dirt path to Shepherd’s Knoll was on the L, marked by a small white cairn only a few hundred feet beyond the well-signed R turn onto the Sheep Creek trail.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Near the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail<\/strong>. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Shepherd’s Knoll trail was short and easy.\u00a0 115 feet of elevation gain total, and even from the parking lot, it was only 0.7 mile to the summit.\u00a0 Lupe enjoyed the stroll, and the scenery was already magnificent.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Climbing Shepherd’s Knoll<\/strong> (R). Sheep Mountain<\/strong> (L). Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-29-23, 7:10 PM, Shepherd’s Knoll<\/em> – The true summit was a flat, bushy area tucked in among the trees.\u00a0 Snow-capped, and somewhat ominous sounding Vulcan Mountain<\/span><\/a> (9,055 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> was in view directly S across the Slims River valley.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Vulcan Mountain<\/strong> (Center) from Shepherd Knoll’s summit<\/strong>. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Vulcan Mountain<\/strong> (L of Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Going a little farther NE, Lupe had a terrific view of the mud flats at the SW end of Kluane Lake.\u00a0 Back in the opposite direction, the enormous Slims River valley disappeared around a curve S.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Kluane Lake<\/strong> beyond the mud flats<\/strong>. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The enormous Slims River valley<\/strong>. Photo looks SSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sorry we didn’t climb Horsecamp Hill today, Loopster.\u00a0 Wish we had now.<\/em><\/p>\n

No worries, SPHP.\u00a0 Shepherd’s Knoll is beautiful, too, even though it isn’t very big, and we knew Observation Mountain and the Kaskawulsh Glacier were a long shot.\u00a0 So, what are we going to do tomorrow?\u00a0 Any plans?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah.\u00a0 Been thinking about it.\u00a0 I still want to check in at the Thechal Dhal visitor centre tomorrow morning.\u00a0 Who knows, maybe they can give us some ideas or encouragement on getting across Bullion Creek?\u00a0 If not, we could still take the Bullion Plateau trail.\u00a0 It doesn’t go to any peaks, but leads to a view of Red Castle Ridge<\/span><\/a> (6,955 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, I remember seeing Red Castle Ridge from Sheep Mountain, SPHP.\u00a0 That might be fun!<\/em><\/p>\n

Little ole Shepherd’s Knoll was a terrific vantage point on this beautiful evening.\u00a0 Lupe lingered a while, enjoying this taste of what might be in store tomorrow before heading back to the RAV4.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Vulcan Mountain<\/strong> (R) beyond what remains of the Slims River<\/strong>. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-29-23, 8:38 PM<\/em> – The lovely evening ended at the S end of Kluane Lake, where the were-puppy made a sudden attack on SPHP.<\/p>\n

Ow!\u00a0 Sheesh!\u00a0 Stop that!\u00a0 We really should have climbed Horsecamp Hill.\u00a0 Guess we better do something far more ambitious than Shepherd’s Knoll tomorrow.\u00a0 You’ve got way too much energy, Loopster!<\/em><\/p>\n

Along the shore of the big lake, the were-puppy merely grinned.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The were-puppy<\/strong> at Kluane Lake<\/strong>, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-29-23<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Links:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Next Adventure<\/span><\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Prior Adventure<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Kluane National Park & Reserve<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Kluane National Park & Reserve Trails & Routes Map<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/em>, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Days 37 & 38 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska! 8-28-23, early afternoon, Anchorage, Alaska – It had rained all morning, the mountains lost in fog.\u00a0 SPHP put down the iPhone. Sorry, Loopster.\u00a0 Alaska is over for this Dingo Vacation.\u00a0 High probability of rain for at least the next … Continue reading Shepherd’s Knoll, Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-29-23)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":61451,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1659],"tags":[105,30,106,26,712,711,104,713,1761],"class_list":["post-61458","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1659","tag-american-dingo","tag-canada","tag-carolina-dog","tag-dingo-vacations","tag-kluane-lake","tag-kluane-national-park","tag-lupe","tag-shepherds-knoll","tag-slims-river"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_2629-scaled.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61458","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=61458"}],"version-history":[{"count":20,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61458\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":64060,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61458\/revisions\/64060"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/61451"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=61458"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=61458"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=61458"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}