{"id":56494,"date":"2024-11-17T08:10:55","date_gmt":"2024-11-17T15:10:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=56494"},"modified":"2024-11-29T10:04:58","modified_gmt":"2024-11-29T17:04:58","slug":"into-the-arctic-apocalypse-to-eagle-plains-yukon-territory-canada-8-6-23-to-8-8-23","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=56494","title":{"rendered":"Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62\u00baF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska –<\/em> Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.<\/p>\n

About time you woke up, SPHP.\u00a0 Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here?\u00a0 I’m roasting!<\/em><\/p>\n

Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded.\u00a0 Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me.\u00a0 Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going.\u00a0 The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.<\/em><\/p>\n

So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Fairbanks first.\u00a0 We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.<\/em><\/p>\n

8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76\u00baF, Fairbanks, Alaska –<\/em><\/p>\n

Any decision yet, SPHP?\u00a0 You’ve been dithering for hours!\u00a0 It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.<\/em><\/p>\n

I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster!\u00a0 Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N?\u00a0 Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days.\u00a0 Heavy rains incoming after that.<\/em><\/p>\n

There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely.\u00a0 Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP?\u00a0 Are things any better there yet?<\/em><\/p>\n

The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop.\u00a0 An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean!\u00a0 It’s unbelievable!\u00a0 Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range.\u00a0 Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.<\/em><\/p>\n

So, what are we going to do then, SPHP?\u00a0 Just sit here wasting time?<\/em><\/p>\n

No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster.\u00a0 Promise!<\/em><\/p>\n

SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.<\/p>\n

No Brooks Range, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Love the Brooks Range!\u00a0 You know that, Loop, but we were there last year.\u00a0 This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood<\/span><\/a><\/strong> returned to Tuktoyaktuk.\u00a0 I guess we may as well try it.\u00a0 After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains?\u00a0 This might be our only chance to do much of anything there.\u00a0 Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?<\/em><\/p>\n

I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP.\u00a0 Maybe it will be fun?<\/em><\/p>\n

Count your blessings, Loopster.\u00a0 Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.<\/em><\/p>\n

8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction<\/em>\u00a0– The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.<\/p>\n

What’s happening, SPHP?\u00a0 Have we reached the apocalypse already?<\/em><\/p>\n

I don’t know.\u00a0 Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?<\/em><\/p>\n

Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead.\u00a0 A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River.\u00a0 Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look.\u00a0 Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The apocalypse from along the Tanana River<\/strong>. Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hah!\u00a0 Look at that, Loop!\u00a0 Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, I hope so, SPHP!\u00a0 Didn’t think it would be this easy.<\/em><\/p>\n

Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain<\/span><\/strong><\/a> in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0 A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay<\/strong><\/span><\/a> was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Mount Fairplay<\/strong> (Center). Photo looks NNE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP?\u00a0 The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, yeah!\u00a0 Undisputable.\u00a0 We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken<\/strong><\/a><\/span>, another plume of smoke was visible.\u00a0 It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region.\u00a0 However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway<\/strong><\/span><\/a> shortly before reaching the Canadian border.<\/p>\n

8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway<\/em> – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today.\u00a0 SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border.\u00a0 NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view.\u00a0 It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.<\/p>\n

Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes.\u00a0 The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away.\u00a0 After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.<\/p>\n

We ought to climb Davis Dome<\/span><\/a> (4,124 ft.)<\/span>, <\/strong>SPHP!\u00a0 For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.<\/em><\/p>\n

Great minds think alike, Loopster!\u00a0 Let’s do it!<\/em><\/p>\n

Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp!\u00a0 Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Davis Dome<\/strong> (Center) from the Top of the World Highway<\/strong>. Photo looks WSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Starting up. Photo looks WSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome<\/span><\/a><\/strong>\u00a0(4,124 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> –<\/em> The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks.\u00a0 There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views.\u00a0 Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Part of the Davis Dome summit region<\/strong>. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
By the mysterious green shack. Photo looks SSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP.\u00a0 I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes, I suppose so.\u00a0 I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop.\u00a0 Just a guess.<\/em><\/p>\n

Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region.\u00a0 The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it.\u00a0 And that was about it for highlights other than the views.\u00a0 Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Hills and ridges to the W.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out.\u00a0 Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
On the biggest cairn<\/strong>. Survey benchmark<\/strong> (Center). US\/Canadian customs <\/strong>is over by the two hills on the R. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Davis Dome survey benchmark<\/strong>. Sadly, no “Walker” stamp as shown on the maps.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A smoking sunset from the small cairn. Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over.\u00a0 The sun was gone.<\/p>\n

Getting late, Loop.\u00a0 Already 10:00 PM.\u00a0 Might as well head back.\u00a0 Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.<\/em><\/p>\n

Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find.\u00a0 No big adventures if it’s really smoky.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
About to head back down to the RAV4. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-23, 12:30 AM<\/em> – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl.\u00a0 A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E.\u00a0 At a 90\u00ba angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N.\u00a0 Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska.\u00a0 Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching.\u00a0 Something was out there in the night!\u00a0 Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout.\u00a0 The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.<\/p>\n

A wolf, SPHP!\u00a0 A real live wild wolf!<\/em><\/p>\n

You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it!\u00a0 Not letting you out there to tangle with that!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64\u00baF<\/em> – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store.\u00a0 Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Morning view of the apocalypse from Davis Dome<\/strong>. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

Mordor?\u00a0 Such drama, SPHP!\u00a0 Look at that incredible blue sky above it all.\u00a0 Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.<\/em><\/p>\n

Me, drama?\u00a0 Really, Loop?\u00a0 What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?<\/em><\/p>\n

Totally justified.\u00a0 That wolf was real, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74\u00baF<\/em> – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch.\u00a0 After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!)<\/em> on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops.\u00a0 Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry<\/strong><\/a><\/span> to Dawson City.<\/p>\n

Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Waiting for the George Black Ferry<\/strong> (L) on the Yukon River<\/strong>. Photo looks ENE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome<\/span><\/a> (2,887 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition.\u00a0 Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Yukon River<\/strong> (L & Center) from Midnight Dome<\/strong> near Dawson City. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81\u00baF<\/em> – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Display at the start of the Dempster Highway<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wow!\u00a0 Can it be?\u00a0 Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.<\/em><\/p>\n

Uh, no.\u00a0 The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view.\u00a0 A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains.\u00a0 By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Entering Tombstone Territorial Park<\/span><\/strong><\/a>. Dempster Highway KM 48. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Figures.\u00a0 We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

It’s not looking good, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

Speak for yourself, SPHP.\u00a0 I’m just along for the adventures!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74\u00baF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71<\/em> –<\/p>\n

Any news, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yup.\u00a0 Not good news, though.\u00a0 Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way.\u00a0 They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke.\u00a0 Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.<\/em><\/p>\n

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

And if we don’t get any?\u00a0 Then what, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

We’re committed now, Looper.\u00a0 Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.<\/em><\/p>\n

Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.<\/em><\/p>\n

The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains.\u00a0 Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures.\u00a0 Goldensides<\/strong><\/a><\/span>, Angelcomb<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, Surfbird<\/strong><\/a><\/span>, Peak 5262<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, Windy Pass Peak<\/strong><\/a><\/span>.\u00a0 In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today.\u00a0 SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At the bubbling pond<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views.\u00a0 Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first.\u00a0 When Sapper Hill<\/span><\/a> (3,084 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River.\u00a0 All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
By Engineer Creek<\/strong>, still the same orange tan color, but a mere shadow of its former self. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Approaching Sapper Hill<\/strong> (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sapper Hill<\/strong> (Center) from the Ogilvie River bridge<\/strong>. Photo looks ESE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix.\u00a0 Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Upstream view<\/strong> of the Ogilvie River<\/strong>. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Downstream view<\/strong> right after Engineer Creek<\/strong> joins in from the R. Photo looks NNE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Careful, Loopster, and stay close!\u00a0 Let’s be quick about this.\u00a0 Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.<\/em><\/p>\n

Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.<\/em><\/p>\n

I know it, Loop.\u00a0 Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!<\/em><\/p>\n

True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?<\/em><\/p>\n

Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge.\u00a0 SPHP had a chat with them.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sapper Hill<\/strong> (Center & R) from the Ogilvie River<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What did they say, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop.\u00a0 Some people do such amazing things!<\/em><\/p>\n

Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster.\u00a0 I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling.\u00a0 Can’t be good!<\/em><\/p>\n

Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping.\u00a0 Churchward Hill<\/strong><\/span><\/a> was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Churchward Hill<\/strong> (Center) from the Ogilvie River<\/strong>. Photo looks NNE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The typical Dempster Highway Arctic apocalypse<\/strong> view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259<\/em> – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area.\u00a0 Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here.\u00a0 Nothing to be seen today except particulate.<\/p>\n

Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At the Ogilvie Ridge viewpoint<\/strong> and rest area.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
One of the two bold ravens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again.\u00a0 You know what they’ll say!<\/em><\/p>\n

Indeed I do, Loopster.\u00a0 Not going to make that mistake!<\/em><\/p>\n

With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.<\/p>\n

Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

Really?\u00a0 What kind of adventure, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

The Ogilvie Ridge<\/span><\/a> (3,048 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> high point is actually still some distance ahead.\u00a0 Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area.\u00a0 The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit.\u00a0 Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there.\u00a0 What do you think?<\/em><\/p>\n

Sounds good to me, SPHP.\u00a0 At least it’s something!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74\u00baF<\/em> – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L.\u00a0 Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was!\u00a0 SPHP parked the RAV4.<\/p>\n

This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop.\u00a0 Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Parked at the start of the Ogilvie Ridge tower access road<\/strong>. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180\u00ba curve N and back around to the W.\u00a0 The microwave tower was once again in view ahead.\u00a0 The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Heading up the access road. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The microwave tower<\/strong> appears ahead. Ogilvie Ridge summit<\/strong> (R). Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit.\u00a0 Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Approaching the Ogilvie Ridge summit<\/strong>. Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A nice little scramble to the top. Photo looks WSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge<\/span><\/a> (3,048 ft.)<\/span><\/strong><\/em> – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up.\u00a0 The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW.\u00a0 The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.<\/p>\n

Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
By the SE cairn<\/strong>. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The microwave tower<\/strong> from the lone cairn<\/strong>. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Twin cairns<\/strong> (Center) next to Lupe, most of the summit plateau<\/strong> (foreground), and the best distant view<\/strong> (L) under the circumstances. Photo looks NNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Congratulations, Loopster!\u00a0 May I shake your paw?\u00a0 Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.<\/em><\/p>\n

Certainly, SPHP!\u00a0 And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?<\/em><\/p>\n

Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.<\/em><\/p>\n

A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here.\u00a0 And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge.\u00a0 After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A look from above at the rock formations where Lupe came up. Taken from the lone cairn. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge<\/em> – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question.\u00a0 Perhaps worryingly close.\u00a0 SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day.\u00a0 Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly.\u00a0 Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.<\/p>\n

8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62\u00baF, Ogilvie Ridge<\/em> – Well, not much of a change so far.\u00a0 The smoke was still awful.<\/p>\n

At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper.\u00a0 I was beginning to wonder.\u00a0 Onward, Sweet Puppy?<\/em><\/p>\n

Onward, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way.\u00a0 It was a winding, up and down journey.\u00a0 SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit.\u00a0 These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.<\/p>\n

8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58\u00baF<\/em> – First up was Aitch Hill<\/span><\/a> (2,198 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit.\u00a0 Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.<\/p>\n

Here, we go, Loopster!\u00a0 Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
About to set out for Aitch Hill<\/strong> on another lovely apocalypse morning. Photo looks ESE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Following the Dempster Highway<\/strong> before venturing L into the forest. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Aitch Hill was a blast!\u00a0 The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes.\u00a0 No human junk cluttering up the mountain here!\u00a0 Aitch Hill was still wild.<\/p>\n

There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region.\u00a0 SPHP built one.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe by her cairn at the Aitch Hill true summit<\/strong>, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks ESE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database.\u00a0 Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher.\u00a0 Might as well head back.\u00a0 Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Along the rim of the Aitch Hill depression<\/strong>. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank.\u00a0 Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.<\/p>\n

8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64\u00baF, Peak 815M<\/span><\/a> (2,674 ft.)<\/span><\/strong><\/em> – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads.\u00a0 Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard.\u00a0 The third road angled uphill off to the R.<\/p>\n

That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
About to set off for Peak 815M<\/strong> via the road seen at far R<\/strong>. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The microwave tower atop Peak 815M<\/strong>. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.<\/em><\/p>\n

So it does, SPHP, and you know what?\u00a0 How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now?\u00a0 A few feet at most.\u00a0 Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it!\u00a0 Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65\u00baF<\/em> – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all.\u00a0 11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Parked along the side road. Dempster Highway<\/strong> (L). Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Are you out of your mind, SPHP?\u00a0 It’s still on fire!<\/em><\/p>\n

Just a little smoke, Loopster.\u00a0 We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?<\/em><\/p>\n

Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP!\u00a0 Let’s skip this one.<\/em><\/p>\n

Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper.\u00a0 We’ll be fine.\u00a0 It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit.\u00a0 Won’t take us long.\u00a0 If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back.\u00a0 Promise.<\/em><\/p>\n

The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Starting up Corbett Hill’s NW slope<\/strong>. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra.\u00a0 Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them.\u00a0 Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Exploring still smoldering Corbett Hill<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason.\u00a0 There were no roads to them.\u00a0 More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The big clearing on the way to the summit. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

Have to agree, Looper.\u00a0 Seems incredible, doesn’t it?\u00a0 Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.<\/em><\/p>\n

8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65\u00baF, Corbett Hill<\/span><\/a><\/strong> (2,497 ft.)<\/strong><\/span> – <\/em>Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit.\u00a0 A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At Corbett Hill’s summit<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Corbett Hill survey marker<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Congratulations, Loopster!\u00a0 Corbett Hill!\u00a0 Told ya we’d make it.\u00a0 Safe as a mouse in church.<\/em><\/p>\n

Maybe so, SPHP.\u00a0 It’s certainly been an unusual adventure.\u00a0 Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now.\u00a0 Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, we’re going to, Loop.\u00a0 Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill.\u00a0 I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant.\u00a0 I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, what are we waiting for then?\u00a0 Onward!\u00a0 SPHP, ho!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68\u00baF, Dempster Highway KM 369<\/em> – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here.\u00a0 Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard.\u00a0 In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At the Eagle Plains Hotel<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter)<\/em>, Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel<\/strong><\/span><\/a> with SPHP.\u00a0 She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
In the hotel lobby.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
One of the residents and new friend.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Outside the entrance to the Arctic Circle Restaurant<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SPHP did enter the restaurant.\u00a0 Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Entering the Arctic Circle Restaurant<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The dining area.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good!\u00a0 The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness.\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here!\u00a0 (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)<\/em><\/p>\n

8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71\u00baF, Eagle Plains –<\/em> As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick.\u00a0 A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.<\/p>\n

Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP.\u00a0 What’s next on our apocalypse tour?<\/em><\/p>\n

Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster.\u00a0 We’ll be there within the hour!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
On Corbett Hill<\/strong> during the Arctic apocalypse, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-23<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Links<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Next Adventure<\/span><\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Prior Adventure<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Eagle Plains Hotel<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

The Dempster Highway Travelogue<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Top of the World Highway<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

The Taylor Highway<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Lupe’s Davis Dome GPS Track (8-6-23)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Lupe’s Ogilvie Ridge GPS Track (8-7-23)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Lupe’s Aitch Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Lupe’s Peak 815M GPS Track (8-8-23)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Lupe’s Corbett Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/em>, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska! 8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62\u00baF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket. About time you woke up, SPHP.\u00a0 Can you please open the RAV4’s … Continue reading Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":56480,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1659],"tags":[1716,105,30,106,1718,1229,1083,1089,104,1110,1715,1717,961,708],"class_list":["post-56494","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1659","tag-aitch-hill","tag-american-dingo","tag-canada","tag-carolina-dog","tag-corbett-hill","tag-davis-dome","tag-dempster-highway","tag-eagle-plains","tag-lupe","tag-midnight-dome","tag-ogilvie-ridge","tag-peak-815","tag-top-of-the-world-highway","tag-yukon"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/IMG_1979-scaled.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56494","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=56494"}],"version-history":[{"count":20,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56494\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":57040,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56494\/revisions\/57040"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/56480"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=56494"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=56494"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=56494"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}