{"id":46803,"date":"2023-05-28T08:10:08","date_gmt":"2023-05-28T14:10:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=46803"},"modified":"2023-06-02T09:13:25","modified_gmt":"2023-06-02T15:13:25","slug":"happy-valley-deadhorse-the-arctic-ocean-tour-8-27-22-to-8-29-22","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=46803","title":{"rendered":"Happy Valley, Deadhorse & The Arctic Ocean Tour (8-27-22 to 8-29-22)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-27-22, 5:30 PM<\/em> – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess.\u00a0 Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active.\u00a0 One huge truck after another brought giant loads of coarse gravel destined to help build up the roadbed.\u00a0 SPHP cringed every time one passed by in the opposite direction slinging mud and rocks.<\/p>\n

Our poor, RAV4, SPHP!\u00a0 It’s only a year old, and taking a beating!<\/em><\/p>\n

I know, Loop.\u00a0 Nothing I can do about it.\u00a0 Only supposed to be 16 miles of this nonsense.\u00a0 Ought to get to the end of it any day now.<\/em><\/p>\n

Approaching Slope Mountain<\/span><\/a> (4,010 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> a break finally appeared in the clouds.\u00a0 Partially draped with fog, and partly in sunshine, the mountain was more dramatic than SPHP remembered.\u00a0 Despite watching for the place where the G6 had been parked back in 2017 when Lupe climbed Slope Mountain<\/span><\/a><\/strong>, SPHP never saw it.<\/p>\n

Back into the rain and fog, the RAV4 was well beyond Slope Mountain by the time the road construction came to an end.<\/p>\n

8-27-22, 6:20 PM<\/em> – A long, threatening growl, then pandemonium in the RAV4, as the American Dingo burst into a foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy!<\/p>\n

Woolly cows, SPHP!\u00a0 Aren’t they supposed to be extinct?\u00a0 There’s a whole herd of them in the ditch!<\/em><\/p>\n

Woolly cows?\u00a0 Those aren’t woolly cows, Loop, they’re musk oxen!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Musk oxen<\/strong> along the Dalton Highway.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Musk oxen?\u00a0 You’ve mentioned them before, SPHP, but I’ve never seen any until now.\u00a0 Never knew what they looked like.<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, musk oxen aren’t such a common sight, Loopster.\u00a0 You did see one once in Banff<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, but you probably don’t remember it.\u00a0 Anyway, I can’t believe we went all the way to Imnavait Mountain<\/span><\/a> (3,702 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> and never saw any wildlife other than a few birds and a vole, and now here’s a dozen musk oxen right next to the Dalton Highway!<\/em><\/p>\n

SPHP pulled the RAV4 over by the side of the highway to watch the musk oxen, but Lupe was so frantic and loud that the whole herd soon began ambling away in search of more peaceful surroundings.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The musk oxen amble off.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Getting to see musk oxen for the first time ever, however briefly, was awesome!\u00a0 Once they left, though, the question soon became where to spend the night, since it was getting on toward evening.<\/p>\n

8-27-22, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334<\/em> – The sky was heavily overcast when SPHP pulled into a giant gravel parking lot.\u00a0 Supposed to be room to camp here, plus access to the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 Correct on both counts!\u00a0 The river was dead ahead, and there was space enough for countless vehicles, although only a few were in sight.<\/p>\n

Various small buildings, a cluster of campers, and another of old mobile homes were strung out along the perimeter of the huge lot.\u00a0 The largest building was bright yellow and up on blocks.\u00a0 A sign with a big yellow smiley face and a red arrow said “Happy Valley Camp Entrance”.<\/p>\n

After SPHP parked the RAV4 near tall yellow bushes on the opposite side of the lot, Lupe went over to investigate.\u00a0 No one around.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At the enormous Happy Valley parking lot<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
By Happy Valley Camp headquarters<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Huh.\u00a0 I don’t know, Looper.\u00a0 Kind of a strange place.<\/em><\/p>\n

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe hopped back up onto her pink blanket.\u00a0 SPHP was getting ready to heat something up for dinner when a young man and a black dog came this way from somewhere over by the river.<\/p>\n

Kyle was 23 years old, and had been manager of the Happy Valley Camp for 5 years.\u00a0 Earlier this year he had bought out the 99 year lease held by the former owner, who apparently wanted out after 2 disastrous years when Covid-19 had completely killed business.<\/p>\n

Happy Valley Camp had a total of 40 rooms that Kyle rented out during the summer to oilfield professionals and truckers, plus a cook he’d hired that provided meals for them, but not to the general public.\u00a0 Kyle also sold aviation fuel to the airstrip operation, which he did not control.\u00a0 Fortunately, business was much better this year.<\/p>\n

Already twice Lupe’s size, Otis was a black lab puppy only 3 months old with gigantic paws.\u00a0 Otis was ready to leap right into the RAV4, and join Lupe on her next adventure, but the Carolina Dog was decidedly cool to the notion.\u00a0 Otis had to settle for a Dingo stick provided by SPHP, which he seemed perfectly happy with.<\/p>\n

Kyle said it was fine to park here overnight at no charge.\u00a0 He’d already shut Happy Valley Camp down for the season.\u00a0 He and Otis would soon be leaving for Anchorage.\u00a0 Winter is coming!\u00a0<\/em> Kyle said.\u00a0 Felt like it, too, at dusk in the gloom of the cold, damp fog.\u00a0 Still August, but summer was long gone.\u00a0 Already late fall here.<\/p>\n

Kyle and Otis eventually left for the bright yellow building.\u00a0 SPHP heated up a can of chili, but for some reason, Lupe didn’t want any.\u00a0 She did have a few Ritz crackers before settling in for the night.<\/p>\n

8-28-22, 9:33 AM, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 –<\/em><\/p>\n

Fog, rain, or mist!\u00a0 We certainly have our choice of weather here, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

So it seems, Looper.\u00a0 Shall we check out the Sagavanirktok River before we move on?\u00a0 We’ll be heading out soon.<\/em><\/p>\n

Wandering over that way, the Sag was as gray and murky as the sky.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> at Happy Valley<\/strong>. Photo looks S (upstream).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Downstream view. Photo looks NNE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Kyle had said that fishing was good on the Sagavanirktok, but Lupe didn’t see any jump.\u00a0 As quiet as things were with the camp closed, a stroll over to the airstrip didn’t reveal much of interest except a display with some posters about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge<\/strong> – Creation & Purposes<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A Northern Landscape<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
As the Seasons Change<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 10:23 AM, Dalton Highway<\/em> – Back on the road again!\u00a0 Devouring last night’s scorned chili with apparent relish, the American Dingo then kept a keen eye out for any more woolly cows.<\/p>\n

Following the Sagavanirktok River N, the Dalton Highway was wet, but in good shape.\u00a0 A few miles N of Happy Valley, there was a 10 mile long stretch that was chip sealed, the first pavement since way back at MP 210 a little N of Dillon Mountain<\/span><\/a> (4,820 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Dalton Highway N of Happy Valley<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Loopster on her pink blanket.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How far to Deadhorse, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

80 miles from Happy Valley, Looper.\u00a0 Be there by noon.\u00a0 Uh-oh!\u00a0 Dang it!<\/em><\/p>\n

Uh-oh?\u00a0 What’s uh-oh, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

RAV4 got nailed by those gravel trucks in the road construction yesterday, Loop.\u00a0 Just noticed a crack in the lower L corner of the windshield.\u00a0 Shoot!\u00a0 Thought we’d somehow gotten lucky, and made it through that gauntlet unscathed.\u00a0 If I’d driven even an inch farther R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a little chipped paint.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, I see it.\u00a0 That’s a tiny crack, SPHP.\u00a0 Doesn’t hurt anything.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, fine for now, but it’ll spread.\u00a0 Going to need a whole new windshield at some point.\u00a0 Guess it’s just a risk we take coming up here, Loopster.\u00a0 Nothing to be done about it.<\/em><\/p>\n

The only other time Lupe had been to Deadhorse back in 2017, the last 54 miles of the Dalton Highway had all been under construction.\u00a0 What a difference!\u00a0 Today it was all beautifully paved – striped and everything!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
On the beautiful new final 54 mile section of the Dalton Highway<\/strong>. Evil new windshield crack<\/strong> (lower L).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wow!\u00a0 This is awesome!\u00a0 Cruising in style now, Looper!<\/em><\/p>\n

Hey, SPHP!\u00a0 Isn’t that a pingo<\/span><\/a><\/strong> way off to the L?<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, I bet your right, Loop!\u00a0 A pretty big one, too.\u00a0 Let’s stop real quick for a look.\u00a0 Haven’t seen a pingo since we were in Tuktoyaktuk<\/span><\/strong><\/a>!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A pingo<\/strong> (Center) in the distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The mighty pingo<\/strong> as seen with help from the telephoto lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 11:48 AM, 42\u00baF, Dalton Highway MP 414, Deadhorse<\/em> – On this damp, gray day, Lupe stood at a “T” intersection with Lake Colleen in view beyond her for the first time in 5 years.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lake Colleen<\/strong> at the end of the Dalton Highway<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Congratulations, Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood<\/strong><\/span><\/a>!\u00a0 You’ve made it back to the N end of the Dalton Highway!<\/em><\/p>\n

Thank you, SPHP!\u00a0 Been a while, hasn’t it?\u00a0 To make it completely official, though, shouldn’t we go to the Prudhoe Bay General Store<\/strong><\/span><\/a> over by Brooks Camp<\/span><\/strong><\/a>?<\/em><\/p>\n

Precisely the plan, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Deadhorse<\/strong> from the end of the Dalton Highway<\/strong>. Lake Colleen<\/strong> (L), Aurora Hotel<\/strong> (yellow building L of Center).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
By the End of the Dalton Highway<\/strong> sign outside the Prudhoe Bay General Store<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After posing by the “Welcome to the End of the Dalton Highway” sign at the Prudhoe Bay General Store, the Carolina Dog sauntered over for a look at the nearby Crazy Horse Industrial Pad.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Checking out the Crazy Horse Industrial Pad<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fueling up the RAV4 was the next priority.\u00a0 They were proud of their fuel at the Colville Gas Station.\u00a0 SPHP was just happy that there was gasoline available.\u00a0 Fortunately, the RAV4 wasn’t too thirsty.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At the Coleville gas station<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Beats walking!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What now, SPHP?\u00a0 Our traditional Deadhorse industrial tour?<\/em><\/p>\n

If you can call twice a tradition already, Loop, but first, since we’re back to civilization again, how about something to eat?\u00a0 I’ll bring you something from the buffet at The Aurora<\/span><\/a><\/strong>, if you like.<\/em><\/p>\n

Sounds good, SPHP!\u00a0 If they’ve got any barbecued beef ribs like at Coldfoot Camp, bring me some of those.<\/em><\/p>\n

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Arriving at The Aurora Hotel<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Engine block heater plugins<\/strong> for winter use. 8 miles from the Arctic Ocean<\/strong>, Deadhorse gets a mite chilly!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 12:35 PM, at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse –<\/em>\u00a0 The lunch buffet was only $18.00, tax included.\u00a0 A fabulous deal, but apparently they eat lunch early in the oil patch.\u00a0 The beautiful, spacious dining room was empty, and SPHP alone at the buffet.<\/p>\n

Sadly, no barbecued beef ribs for Lupe, but there was lots of other great stuff to choose from.\u00a0 SPHP loaded up a big tray, then sat by one of the huge picture windows with a view of Lake Colleen.<\/p>\n

It was all delicious!\u00a0 Only the fact that they began tearing the buffet down at 1:00 PM sharp kept SPHP from being a tremendous glutton.<\/p>\n

Took long enough, SPHP!\u00a0 What did you bring me?\u00a0 Lots of scrumptious ribs, I hope!<\/em><\/p>\n

No ribs, I’m afraid, Loop, but look at this!\u00a0 Got a few things I think you’ll enjoy during our Deadhorse industrial tour this afternoon.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Carolina Dog’s eyes grew big as SPHP opened a Styrofoam doggie box full of ham, cheese, and roast beef.<\/p>\n

8-28-22, 1:54 PM<\/em> – An industrial camp serving the Prudhoe Bay oilfields near the Arctic Ocean, Deadhorse has no business district, virtually no shopping, and no private homes.\u00a0 Touring Deadhorse meant touring all kinds of industrial establishments offering oilfield supplies, equipment, or services, and going by the few hotels where the workers live.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Oil rigs<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Some big cranes<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Arctic Oilfield Hotel<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The golf course<\/strong> with 2 giant golf balls<\/strong>. Oilfield workers don’t play mini-golf.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Deadhorse isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.\u00a0 When Loopster first visited the Brooks Range in 2016, quite a few people described Alaska’s North Slope as boring, and Deadhorse as just an ugly industrial place.\u00a0 Not worth the time and expense to get here!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Some sort of snow cats<\/strong>?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lots of trucks<\/strong>, of course.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Having worked in heavy industry, SPHP felt differently.\u00a0 Deadhorse, and its demanding jobs in such a remote, harsh climate, seemed more like an exciting opportunity and adventure.<\/p>\n

Lupe shared some of SPHP’s enthusiasm for the North Slope, but wasn’t all that keen on the industrial side of Deadhorse, although she willingly participated in today’s tour between tasty tidbits from The Aurora.<\/p>\n

SPHP drove every road open to the public in Deadhorse, including the one that went all the way around Lake Colleen.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Tanker trucks<\/strong> and stacks of industrial containers<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
An oilfield<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lake Colleen<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For the most part, Deadhorse looked remarkably similar to how it had been during Lupe’s 2017 visit, but there were some changes.\u00a0 The Alaska Airlines terminal at the airport seemed to be closed.\u00a0 The Prudhoe Bay Hotel across the street was closed, too.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Nothing going on at the Alaska Airlines terminal<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A note on the Prudhoe Bay hotel<\/strong> door dated 7-1-21 said it was temporarily closed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A small charter plane near the airport.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

These days, all the action at the airport seemed to be originating over at the Deadhorse Aviation Center down the street from the Alaska Airlines terminal, but SPHP didn’t go inside to find out if that was really the case.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Deadhorse Aviation Center<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There aren’t that many streets in Deadhorse.\u00a0 Even at a leisurely pace, Lupe’s industrial tour took only a little over an hour.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Oilfield pipe<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 3:04 PM, Deadhorse<\/em> –<\/p>\n

Happy, SPHP?\u00a0 Is the industrial tour over?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes.\u00a0 Enjoyed seeing it all again, Loopster.\u00a0 Thanks for being a good sport!<\/em><\/p>\n

Great!\u00a0 Can we get to the fun stuff then, and visit the Sagavanirktok River?<\/em><\/p>\n

Pretty soon.\u00a0 I want to check on tours available at Deadhorse Camp, first.<\/em><\/p>\n

You already did the Arctic Ocean tour<\/strong><\/span><\/a> as my personal representative in 2017, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, I know, but I’d like to see what else they might have to offer.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Sagivanirktok River was right along the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse.\u00a0 Deadhorse Camp was, too.\u00a0 One of the first buildings on the L entering Deadhorse, it used to be a sickly yellow, but was now sporting brand new dark red siding.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At Deadhorse Camp<\/strong>, home of the Arctic Ocean Tour<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 3:17 PM, Deadhorse Camp<\/em> – Took SPHP a few minutes to realize that the entrance stairway had been switched to the opposite end of the building since Lupe had last been here.\u00a0 The American Dingo waited in the RAV4 while SPHP went inside.<\/p>\n

So what did they say, SPHP?\u00a0 Did you sign up for a tour?<\/em><\/p>\n

The only tour they can book here in Deadhorse is the same Arctic Ocean tour I went on in 2017.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, too bad, SPHP!\u00a0 Can we go to the Sagavanirktok River now?<\/em><\/p>\n

Sure, for a while, Loop.\u00a0 Have to report back here between 5:00 and 6:00 PM.\u00a0 They should have an answer back by then on whether I pass muster on the security check they’re running on me.<\/em><\/p>\n

What?\u00a0 You’re taking the Arctic Ocean tour again, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yup!\u00a0 Why not?\u00a0 How often are we ever going to be this close to the Arctic Ocean, anyway?\u00a0 The price is still only $69.00!\u00a0 Hasn’t changed since 2017, so a super bargain.\u00a0 Besides, I’ve got unfinished business with this tour.<\/em><\/p>\n

What kind of unfinished business, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Last time it never even occurred to me that I could go swimming in the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 We were already there when I realized what the stack of white towels that were in the bus were for.\u00a0 I wasn’t prepared, and had to settle for just wading in the ocean.\u00a0 This time, I’m going to swim in the Arctic Ocean, Looper!<\/em><\/p>\n

And I suppose I still get left out, aye, SPHP?\u00a0 Still no Dingoes allowed on the tour?<\/em><\/p>\n

Afraid so, Loopster.\u00a0 Back to being your personal representative again.\u00a0 I did ask, and told them you wouldn’t be any trouble at all, but they said no.<\/em><\/p>\n

8-28-22, 4:00 PM <\/em>– The mood at the Sagavanirktok River was completely different from what it had been in 2017.\u00a0 Back then there’d been a little sunshine, the sky only partly cloudy.\u00a0 A small crowd was present.\u00a0 People in wet suits had been tubing down the river, and some optimistic soul had spent a frustrating hour trying to fly a green kite despite an almost non-existent breeze.\u00a0 The atmosphere had been rather festive.<\/p>\n

Except for a lone pickup truck with a green camper, no one was around today.\u00a0 Although no longer raining or misting, the sky was completely overcast.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
By the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Today’s burgeoning crowd at the Sagavanirktok<\/strong>. Green camper<\/strong> (L).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe still spent a wonderful late afternoon along the Sagivanirktok River.\u00a0 Some sort of unseen marmots or Arctic prairie dogs were living in holes in the tundra.\u00a0 One in particular inhabited a 40 foot long steel pipe that had a 3rd hole in it 10 feet from the river end.<\/p>\n

Perfectly safe in its steel fortress, the marmot squeaked enticingly from within, as Lupe frantically tried to dig out the entire pipe, doomed to failure from the start.\u00a0 None of that mattered to the determined Dingo.\u00a0 Although SPHP managed to divert her attention with walks along the river, Lupe always insisted on returning to her pipeline excavation.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Happily occupied along the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
On an upstream walk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Relaxing by the Sag<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Upstream the river was well contained by a steep bank where occasional piers of rock extended partway out into the main channel.\u00a0 Downstream, there was more opportunity to explore the water’s edge.\u00a0 At this time of year, the Sag was low with lots of exposed river bottom to sniff.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Heading off to explore the downstream region.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
By water’s edge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Looking back upstream.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Deadhorse<\/strong> from the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-28-22, 4:47 PM<\/em> – A group of ptarmigans were in the parking lot when SPHP parked the RAV4 at Deadhorse Camp again.\u00a0 Despite arriving a bit earlier than told to, they already had an answer back.\u00a0 Once again, the United States was willing to take a chance on letting SPHP ride the Arctic Ocean tour bus.\u00a0 Dingoes were still too big a threat to national security.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Ptarmigans<\/strong> at the Deadhorse Camp parking lot.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Probably think you’re an Australian spy, Looper.<\/em><\/p>\n

Not buying that I’m an American Dingo, aye?\u00a0 You should have told them that I was a Carolina Dog, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

In any case, the die was cast.\u00a0 SPHP was booked on the tour leaving at 8:30 AM tomorrow morning.\u00a0 After leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe got to spend the rest of the evening along the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 Even the green camper was long gone.<\/p>\n

8-29-22, the wee hours, Sagavanirktok River<\/em> – 41\u00baF, but the night seemed cold, raw, and damp.\u00a0 The lights of Deadhorse were beautiful in the fog.\u00a0 SPHP couldn’t sleep with the impending test of sanity and self-discipline only hours away.\u00a0 Swim in the Arctic Ocean?\u00a0 Inconceivable!\u00a0 The shame of chickening out wasn’t exactly a grand prospect, either.\u00a0 Under cover of darkness, SPHP changed into a bathing suit before bundling up again.<\/p>\n

8-29-22, 5:18 AM, Sagavanirktok River<\/em> – Starting to get light out.\u00a0 Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 to sniff the morning air.\u00a0 Still foggy.\u00a0 During the short drive to The Aurora a few minutes later, she had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl.<\/p>\n

The breakfast buffet was going great guns at this hour.\u00a0 SPHP enjoyed a very hearty meal.\u00a0 Still only $15.00.\u00a0 Same price as in 2017.\u00a0 What a steal!<\/p>\n

Bring me anything, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

You know I did, Loopster!\u00a0 You can munch on it while we take a last spin around Lake Colleen.<\/em><\/p>\n

Bacon and sausage patties!\u00a0 Another fantastic tour of Lake Colleen!<\/p>\n

Back at the Sagavanirktok River, there was no sky, only fog, but Lupe could see the river.\u00a0 A bird that looked part duck, part loon was floating by.\u00a0 This bird had a disturbingly strange cry like a cat in distress – mew, mew, mew!\u00a0 Other ducks responded, paddling over to it, but the catbird wasn’t actually hurt.\u00a0 Another bird of the same type with the same cry soon flew off in apparently perfect health.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The catbird.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-29-22, 7:34 AM, Deadhorse Camp, 40\u00baF<\/em> – Tyler, a young man, verified that SPHP was on the Arctic Ocean tour list, then accepted the required $69.00, which SPHP paid in cash.\u00a0 Molly, who also worked here, said she wanted to meet Lupe when the tour was over.\u00a0 She missed her dog.<\/p>\n

Tyler turned out to be the tour guide and shuttle bus driver.\u00a0 After a short wait while others arrived, everyone boarded the bus.\u00a0 Lupe, of course, had to stay in the RAV4.\u00a0 7 people were on the tour, including SPHP.\u00a0 A lively group, they made it fun, peppering Tyler with questions during the drive through the oilfields.<\/p>\n

To SPHP, the most interesting comment Tyler made was that the Alaska oil pipeline now only carries about 300,000 barrels of oil per day, an 85% decrease from its heyday when 2,000,000 barrels was normal.<\/p>\n

8-29-22, 8:47 AM, Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay<\/em> – Although visibly eroded, the spit of gravelly land next to where Tyler parked the shuttle bus was instantly recognized by SPHP.\u00a0 This was the exact same place where the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour had wound up.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Arctic Ocean<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tyler referred to this spit as a “dock” that had been built on barrels still rusting away at its far end.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Arctic Ocean<\/strong> from the end of the “dock”.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The moment of truth was at paw!\u00a0 Proceeding without hesitation, SPHP was not alone stripping down to a swimsuit.<\/p>\n

Can’t think about this, or it will never happen!\u00a0 SPHP was first, leading the way into the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 The ocean was shallow.\u00a0 It was quite a trek out to where it was finally mid-thigh.<\/p>\n

C’ya all!\u00a0 I’m swimming to Russia!<\/em><\/p>\n

Plunging in, SPHP completely submerged, getting a taste of salt water in the process.\u00a0 The swim to Russia had scarcely begun, when SPHP shot out of the water with one great whoop, then proceeded to wade back into shore, clutching a souvenier rock torn from the ocean floor.\u00a0 The rock was a perfectly ordinary, rounded, greenish stone, but it would do.\u00a0 SPHP hadn’t the slightest intention of seeking out a better one.<\/p>\n

At least 2 other tour members also swam, however briefly, in the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 All but one at least waded in a ways.\u00a0 Everyone was laughing and talking about how great it was!\u00a0 A couple from Colombia hugged with joy at having made it all this way.\u00a0 It really was a great moment, a landmark in time.\u00a0 SPHP’s only regret was that Lupe wasn’t there, too.<\/p>\n

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Fellow tour members still cavorting in Prudhoe Bay<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tyler passed out white towels from a cardboard box.\u00a0 Took a little while before everyone was dried off and adequately layered up again.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Tour guide, Tyler<\/strong>, appropriately dressed on the R, as the tour winds down.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The shuttle bus<\/strong> (R of Center) from the end of the spit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Last glance at the Arctic Ocean<\/strong> before departing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the way back to Deadhorse Camp, a red fox was spotted roaming the oil patch.\u00a0 There’d been foxes during the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour, too.<\/p>\n

Upon reaching Deadhorse Camp, Tyler passed out an “Arctic Polar Bear Club Certificate of Membership for braving the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!” to everyone on the tour who had dared stick a toe in the water.\u00a0 Dated August 29, 2022, it was personally signed by Tyler making it all official.<\/p>\n

Molly came out to meet and pet Lupe at the RAV4, too.\u00a0 Lupe was happy with all the attention Molly gave her, and joined SPHP during good-byes and bon voyages with fellow tour members.<\/p>\n

So, how did it go, SPHP?\u00a0 Glad you’re here, but I wasn’t expecting you back quite this soon.\u00a0 What was Russia like?<\/em><\/p>\n

Experienced a sudden change of heart about swimming to Russia shortly after plunging in, Loop.\u00a0 Never actually got there.<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, as my personal representative, you did at least go swimming in the Arctic Ocean for me, didn’t you?<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, yes!\u00a0 Yes, I did, Loopster!\u00a0 For quite a few nanoseconds.\u00a0 A good dozen or more, I’d say.<\/em><\/p>\n

That isn’t very long is it, SPHP?\u00a0 I can hardly go around boasting that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s personal representative swam in the Arctic Ocean for 12 nanoseconds, can I?<\/em><\/p>\n

I suppose not, Loop, but that’s a good thing!<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, really?\u00a0 In what way, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Now we’ve got a reason to come back to Deadhorse again!\u00a0 Next time I can work on my Arctic Ocean swimming endurance for you.\u00a0 Pretty sure I can shatter today’s record.<\/em><\/p>\n

8-29-22, 10:34 AM, Sagavanirktok River<\/em> – SPHP had another walk along the Sag in mind, but didn’t get far.\u00a0 Lupe had other ideas, preferring to stick her nose down Arctic prairie dog holes instead.\u00a0 That was OK, it was her turn for fun.\u00a0 SPHP enjoyed watching her enthusiasm, and admiring the mighty Sag, as gray as the sky.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Back at the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sniffing near the Sag<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-29-22, 11:42 AM, 43\u00baF<\/em> – 24 hours after arriving, still in a gray fog, Lupe left Deadhorse on the beautiful 54 mile long new stretch of the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 Before departure there’d been one more visit to the Prudhoe Bay General Store near Brooks Camp so SPHP could buy a few souvenirs in addition to the green rock plucked from the Arctic Ocean for Lupe’s rock collection.<\/p>\n

The fog lifted.\u00a0 Vast regions of golden tundra were in view.\u00a0 Although many adventures were still ahead, there was a sadness to heading S again.\u00a0 SPHP couldn’t shake the feeling that an epic journey had reached its climax back along the foggy Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse.<\/p>\n

The sadness only got worse when Lupe spotted a lone caribou.\u00a0 Soon 8 were seen on a hillside, but bow hunters in camouflage appeared ready to slaughter them.\u00a0 Terrible!<\/p>\n

Passing Happy Valley, it’s bright yellow headquarters could be seen from the highway, and it did seem a more cheerful place.\u00a0 No doubt Kyle and Otis were still there for a few more days, busy winterizing the facilities.<\/p>\n

Another herd of musk oxen was a special treat.\u00a0 Grazing quite a long way from the highway over by the Sagavanirktok River, they were too far off to inspire the same frenzied reaction from the Carolina Dog that the ones in the ditch had 2 days ago.<\/p>\n

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Woolly cows<\/strong> again!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SPHP was disappointed when both Slope Mountain<\/span><\/a> (4,010 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> and Imnavait Mountain<\/span><\/a> (3,702 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> turned out to be hidden by clouds.\u00a0 Only their lower slopes were in view.<\/p>\n

Approaching Galbraith Lake near the N edge of the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway was dry for the first time in days.\u00a0 A fair amount of blue sky was around, too.<\/p>\n

Galbraith Lake seems to be the only dry spot in the entire Brooks Range and North Slope!\u00a0 Want to stay at the campground again, Loop?<\/em><\/p>\n

8-29-22, 4:15 PM, Galbraith Lake Campground, Dalton Highway MP 275 –<\/em> The American Dingo was all for that idea!\u00a0 And why not?\u00a0 It was already a favorite spot.\u00a0 Lupe spent much of the evening having a blast exploring the tundra W of the campground.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Investigating beneath boulders W of Galbraith Lake campground<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe had been here 4 nights ago.\u00a0 SPHP noticed a certain chill in the air, and that the fall colors were no longer quite as brilliant as they had been so recently.\u00a0 Yet if this weather would hold, the American Dingo was in for another incredible Brooks Range adventure tomorrow.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, after wandering until distant lights were visible over by the Galbraith airstrip and on the Dalton Highway, this peaceful evening out on the tundra ended with the mountains all hidden by clouds and fog moving in.\u00a0 A sad thought – maybe this was it for the Brooks Range, after all?\u00a0 (11:15 PM)<\/em><\/p>\n

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Happy times along the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong>, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-29-22<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Links:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Next Adventure<\/span><\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Prior Adventure<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Deadhorse, Alaska – The Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Arctic Ocean Shuttle Tour from Deadhorse Camp<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo<\/span> Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/em>, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/span><\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska! 8-27-22, 5:30 PM – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess.\u00a0 Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active.\u00a0 … Continue reading Happy Valley, Deadhorse & The Arctic Ocean Tour (8-27-22 to 8-29-22)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":46802,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1585],"tags":[704,105,927,106,923,26,1635,104,928,1636],"class_list":["post-46803","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1585","tag-alaska","tag-american-dingo","tag-arctic-ocean-tour","tag-carolina-dog","tag-deadhorse","tag-dingo-vacations","tag-happy-valley","tag-lupe","tag-sagavanirktok-river","tag-the-aurora"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/IMG_6286-scaled.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46803","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=46803"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46803\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":49356,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46803\/revisions\/49356"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/46802"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=46803"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=46803"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=46803"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}