{"id":19984,"date":"2019-03-24T08:10:58","date_gmt":"2019-03-24T14:10:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=19984"},"modified":"2019-03-28T09:39:01","modified_gmt":"2019-03-28T15:39:01","slug":"smoke-water-the-canadian-rockies-to-the-babine-mountains-8-7-18-8-8-18","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=19984","title":{"rendered":"Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53\u00b0F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada<\/em> – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.\u00a0 Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson <\/span><\/a>(9,731 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.\u00a0 Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today.\u00a0 This was a rest and travel day.<\/p>\n

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel.\u00a0 The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that!\u00a0 Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.<\/p>\n

So that was the plan.\u00a0 By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy.\u00a0 Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.<\/p>\n

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58\u00b0F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park<\/em> – Smoky, but not bad.\u00a0 SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier.\u00a0 The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!<\/p>\n

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass.\u00a0 Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Athabasca Glacier<\/strong> is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies!<\/em> Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Mount Athabasca<\/strong>, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Mount Athabasca<\/span><\/a> (11,453 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish.\u00a0 The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by.\u00a0 Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day.\u00a0 Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!<\/p>\n

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62\u00b0F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park<\/em> – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls.\u00a0 The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high.\u00a0 A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.<\/p>\n

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sunwapta Falls<\/strong>. The Sunwapta River<\/strong> starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen Sunwapta Falls<\/strong> with such tremendous flow before!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68\u00b0F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park<\/em> – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River.\u00a0 Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today!\u00a0 Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.<\/p>\n

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it.\u00a0 For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway.\u00a0 Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.<\/p>\n

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge.\u00a0 Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that!<\/em> Loop in the Athabasca River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75\u00b0F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park<\/em> – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground.\u00a0 This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists.\u00a0 Justifiably so.\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too.\u00a0 It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.<\/p>\n

Lupe liked all the activity!\u00a0 People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Athabasca Falls<\/strong>, Jasper National Park.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Athabasca Falls<\/strong>, Jasper National Park.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! Athabasca Falls<\/strong> is so impressive!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Athabasca Falls<\/strong> is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass<\/em> – The morning had flown by.\u00a0 After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16.\u00a0 Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs.\u00a0 A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby.\u00a0 A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it.\u00a0 Greater sights were ahead.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe reaches British Colombia<\/strong> at Yellowhead Pass<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
By Portal Lake<\/strong> at Yellowhead Pass<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72\u00b0F, Moose Lake<\/em> – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0 Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker.\u00a0 By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Well, here we are at beautiful Moose Lake<\/strong> along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75\u00b0F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park<\/em> – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls.\u00a0 A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center.\u00a0 Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.<\/p>\n

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight.\u00a0 While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Overlander Falls<\/strong> is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the Fraser River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Overlander Falls<\/strong> isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The cool spray feels great!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
There’s always time for love and new friends!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78\u00b0F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park<\/em> – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls.\u00a0 Rearguard Falls<\/strong><\/span><\/a> has its own provincial park!\u00a0 Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.<\/p>\n

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive.\u00a0 A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A first glimpse of Rearguard Falls<\/strong> from the trail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Rearguard Falls<\/strong>. The air was still smoky, but the Fraser River<\/strong> was simply gorgeous!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Rearguard Falls<\/strong> on the Fraser River<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia<\/em> – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5.\u00a0 Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops.\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.<\/p>\n

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic.\u00a0 Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River.\u00a0 This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.<\/p>\n

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe enjoys a drink from the Goat River.<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Goat River<\/strong> was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
An upstream view. Still smoky out!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day.\u00a0 The long drive continued.\u00a0 Lupe went through Prince George (86\u00b0F!)<\/em> and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16.\u00a0 The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky.\u00a0 If anything, the smoke was getting worse.<\/p>\n

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67\u00b0F, Dry Williams Lake<\/em> – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk.\u00a0 An eerie twilight developed.\u00a0 The smoke was bad.\u00a0 Nevertheless, time to call it a day.\u00a0 A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake.\u00a0 This would do nicely!\u00a0 There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.<\/p>\n

Lupe had gone a long way today.\u00a0 The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes.\u00a0 Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it?\u00a0 After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Evening at Dry Williams Lake<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54\u00b0F, Dry Williams Lake<\/em> – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been.\u00a0 Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams.\u00a0 The forest fires must not be terribly far away.\u00a0 The G6 was covered with a layer of ash.\u00a0 A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sunrise at Dry Williams Lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N.\u00a0 The end of the smoke!\u00a0 Conditions improved steadily.\u00a0 Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream!\u00a0 It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke.\u00a0 By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.<\/p>\n

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory.\u00a0 Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park.\u00a0 Hwy 16 goes right past it.\u00a0 Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Steelhead Park<\/strong> in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Steelhead Park<\/strong> is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Steelhead Park<\/strong>, Houston, British Columbia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
There’s the steelhead pond, over there.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sniffs like peppermint, I bet!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road.\u00a0 Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers.\u00a0 Adventure was calling, though.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Time to leave already?<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM.\u00a0 Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Mount Astlais<\/strong> (L) & The Big Onion<\/strong> (R), Babine Mountains, British Columbia 8-8-18<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Links:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Next Adventure<\/span><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Prior Adventure<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose\u00a0from\u00a0Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>,\u00a0Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska! 8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53\u00b0F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.\u00a0 Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).\u00a0 Yesterday she’d had the … Continue reading Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19960,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[997],"tags":[105,167,34,1060,79,30,31,106,1061,1062,104,694,695,697,261],"class_list":["post-19984","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2018-yukon-northwest-territiories-alaska","tag-american-dingo","tag-athabasca-falls","tag-athabasca-glacier","tag-babine-mountains","tag-british-columbia","tag-canada","tag-canadian-rockies","tag-carolina-dog","tag-dry-william-lake","tag-goat-river","tag-lupe","tag-overlander-falls","tag-rearguard-falls","tag-steelhead-park","tag-sunwapta-falls"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/IMG_0324.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19984","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=19984"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19984\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21187,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19984\/revisions\/21187"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/19960"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=19984"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=19984"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=19984"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}