{"id":14213,"date":"2018-08-12T08:10:14","date_gmt":"2018-08-12T14:10:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=14213"},"modified":"2019-04-04T10:40:06","modified_gmt":"2019-04-04T16:40:06","slug":"deadhorse-alaska-the-arctic-ocean-tour-sagavanirktok-river-walk-8-21-17","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=14213","title":{"rendered":"Deadhorse, Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

5:18 AM, 44\u00b0F<\/em> – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything.\u00a0 A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds.\u00a0 SPHP checks the camera.\u00a0 No, it wasn’t left on.\u00a0 Lupe is awake.\u00a0 She hears the noise, too, but seems unconcerned.\u00a0 After a minute or two, the noise stops.\u00a0 Odd.\u00a0 Whatever.\u00a0 Back to sleep.<\/p>\n

7:54 AM, 44\u00b0F<\/em> – Wow, stayed conked out a long time!\u00a0 Still foggy, but the silvery Sagavanirktok River is now in view.\u00a0 Loop’s ready to get out and sniff the air.\u00a0 There’s that strange noise again.\u00a0 It’s not electronic.\u00a0 Birds resembling loons afloat on the Sag are the source.\u00a0 Cool!<\/p>\n

It’s Monday morning.\u00a0 Deadhorse is awake now and apparently back to work, no longer the ghostly place it was last night.\u00a0 Loop hears loud noises, a variety of banging and clanging coming from across the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 The Carolina Dog hates loud noises!\u00a0 Lupe wants back in the G6, where she curls up to snooze some more.<\/p>\n

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Lupe wakes up to a view of the silvery Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> in Deadhorse, Alaska. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

9:00 AM, 45\u00b0F<\/em> – The trip journal is caught up again now.\u00a0 Lupe’s nap is done.\u00a0 The fog has lifted somewhat.\u00a0 Out of the G6 for another look at the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 Then it’s time to scout out breakfast possibilities, and find out more about the Arctic Ocean tour – today’s big event!<\/p>\n

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After her early nap, Lupe checks out the view of the Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> again. More than an hour has gone by, and the fog has lifted.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2016, Lupe had taken the Dalton Highway halfway to Deadhorse.\u00a0 She’d climbed a pair of wonderful peaks in Alaska’s Brooks Range, Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong><\/span><\/a> and Dillon Mountain<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, and gone on her 2016 Last Mile North<\/strong><\/span><\/a> adventure.<\/p>\n

While in the Brooks Range, Lupe and SPHP had met several groups of people who had been all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 Deadhorse is only 6-8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay.\u00a0 However, for oilfield security purposes, the public is not allowed free access to the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 The only way to get there is by taking a guided tour.<\/p>\n

SPHP asked everyone Lupe met if they had taken the Arctic Ocean tour, but nobody had.\u00a0 Everybody liked Alaska’s North Slope, and most had seen some really cool wildlife along the Dalton Highway – snowy owls, arctic foxes, caribou and even musk ox – but no one liked Deadhorse, an ugly industrial complex.\u00a0 And no one thought the price of the Arctic Ocean tour was worth it.\u00a0 Everyone had seen other oceans elsewhere, and that was good enough for them.<\/p>\n

Really?\u00a0 The Arctic Ocean<\/em> not worth it?\u00a0 Not even once, just to have been there and seen some part of the polar ocean at the top of the world?\u00a0 SPHP already knew that Dingoes weren’t officially allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour, but intended to plead Lupe’s case.\u00a0 If Loop had to buy a ticket, too, so be it.\u00a0 Even cheapskate SPHP would spring for that, if it meant the American Dingo could stand on the shore of the Arctic Ocean<\/em>!<\/p>\n

The Arctic Ocean tour begins at Deadhorse Camp, a long boxy yellow tan building visible on the L side of the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse.\u00a0 Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp late yesterday evening.<\/p>\n

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Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp yesterday evening.\u00a0 It was easy to spot on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching the outskirts of Deadhorse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Since Deadhorse Camp was already within sight, SPHP drove over there first.\u00a0 Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went inside.<\/p>\n

Already a little past 9:00 AM, it turns out that the first Arctic Ocean tour of the day has already left.\u00a0 The tour is conducted twice daily.\u00a0 A shuttle bus leaves from Deadhorse Camp at 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM.\u00a0 Each tour typically takes a little under 2 hours.\u00a0 Most of the tour is actually about the Prudhoe Bay oilfield.\u00a0 However, limited access to the Arctic Ocean is provided for 15 to 30 minutes.\u00a0 Cost is $69.00 per person, which includes all taxes and fees.<\/p>\n

Fine, fine!\u00a0 It was all fine, except for one thing.<\/p>\n

I’m sorry, Loopster!\u00a0 You can’t go.\u00a0 I tried to talk them into it, even offered to buy you a separate ticket, but it all fell on completely deaf ears.\u00a0 They were adamant.\u00a0 No Dingoes allowed.<\/em><\/p>\n

I won’t ever get to see the Arctic Ocean?<\/em><\/p>\n

No.\u00a0 I know it isn’t fair, and I’m terribly sorry.\u00a0 Apparently there’s just no way to get them to change their minds.<\/em><\/p>\n

So, now what?<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, if you don’t mind, I’d like to go on the tour myself, as the personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.\u00a0 It’s the best we can do under the circumstances.<\/em><\/p>\n

And I have to wait here in the G6?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes.\u00a0 It’s only a couple of hours.\u00a0 You can take it easy, and have another nap.<\/em><\/p>\n

I suppose that’s OK, SPHP.\u00a0 As Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I suppose I really ought to send you as my representative since I can’t go myself.\u00a0 Are you leaving now?<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, good.\u00a0 Glad you see it that way, Loop.\u00a0 No, I’m not leaving yet.\u00a0 The next tour isn’t until later this afternoon.\u00a0 We can go do some other stuff in the meantime.<\/em><\/p>\n

Like what?<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, for starters, we should go to the end of the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should get her picture taken there for posterity, don’t you think?\u00a0 It’s only a couple of miles from here.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, yeah!\u00a0 That’s true!\u00a0 We didn’t get a picture there last night, did we?\u00a0 Let’s go get that taken care of before we forget.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse, Alaska. The 414 mile long highway officially ends at the T intersection in front of Lake Colleen<\/strong> just ahead. Photo looks W.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Looking back from the end of the Dalton Highway. This is the start of the way back S to Livengood and Fairbanks. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lupe poses near Lake Colleen<\/strong> a little beyond the end of the Dalton Highway. Lake Colleen is the largest lake in Deadhorse. It’s possible to drive completely around it.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the end of the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 Maybe she would like to send her Grandma a postcard from Deadhorse?\u00a0 Loop thought that would be a good idea!\u00a0 Wouldn’t Grandma be surprised to learn she was way up here practically at the Arctic Ocean?<\/p>\n

The clerk at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel had given SPHP a simple map of Deadhorse last night.\u00a0 It didn’t show much detail, but all the major roads were on it, and so was Brooks Range Supply.\u00a0 The clerk had said Brooks Range Supply had a gift shop.\u00a0 That might be a good place to look for a postcard.<\/p>\n

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The simple map of Deadhorse that SPHP received courtesy of the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Not much detail, but the major roads are shown.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When Lupe reached Brooks Range Supply, she found a sign welcoming her to Deadhorse, Alaska on the side of the building.\u00a0 SPHP recognized this sign, having seen it online before Lupe ever left home on this Dingo Vacation.\u00a0 Now Lupe was actually here, thousands of miles from home!<\/p>\n

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Lupe outside Brooks Range Supply. SPHP recognized the yellow sign welcoming Looper to Deadhorse from the internet.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Now that is one cool sign!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Conclusive proof that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood has made it all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SPHP went into Brooks Range Supply while Lupe lounged about in the G6.\u00a0 The main floor was a giant parts store.\u00a0 No doubt it all would have been enormously useful if Loop intended to start up her own oilfield.\u00a0 However, as profitable as that might have been, it wasn’t actually the case.<\/p>\n

A little exploring revealed that the Deadhorse post office was located here, too.\u00a0 It was also on the main floor down a hallway.\u00a0 The gift shop turned out to be a much smaller area upstairs.\u00a0 The gift shop had lots of clothing, mugs, and all that sort of stuff for tourists.\u00a0 They had postcards too, but the postcards about Alaska were all generic.\u00a0 SPHP had hoped to find something specific to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, or the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 No such luck.<\/p>\n

SPHP bought an Alaska postcard, anyway.\u00a0 SPHP then returned to Lupe in the G6, to write up her postcard to Grandma before mailing it.\u00a0 Lupe made sure SPHP mentioned she was sending lots of love to Grandma, too.<\/p>\n

After mailing the postcard, it was late morning.\u00a0 Still plenty of time left before the afternoon Arctic Ocean tour.\u00a0 On the way to Brooks Range Supply, SPHP had seen a multi-story hotel called the Aurora.\u00a0 Maybe it was possible to get lunch there?\u00a0 It meant another wait for Lupe in the G6, but she didn’t mind as long as she got some Taste of the Wild.<\/p>\n

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Loop outside the Aurora Hotel. The Aurora turned out to be a great place to eat!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Upon entering the Aurora Hotel, signs indicated blue slip-on boot covers were required to help keep the hotel floors clean.\u00a0 This is apparently standard practice everywhere in Deadhorse.\u00a0 The Prudhoe Bay Hotel had required them last night, too.\u00a0 The disposable boot covers were provided free at the entryway, along with benches to sit on while putting them on.\u00a0 Everyone complies, and so did SPHP.<\/p>\n

Coming to the Aurora for lunch proved to be a fantastic idea!\u00a0 SPHP learned that an all you can eat luncheon was about to be served.\u00a0 It was buffet style and being set up right now.\u00a0 $15.00 tax included.\u00a0 A huge, high-ceiling dining area featured tall glass windows overlooking Lake Colleen.\u00a0 When the buffet was ready, the food was delicious!\u00a0 A wide variety of entrees was available.\u00a0 Being the middle of the day, the dining room was mostly empty.\u00a0 The Aurora’s customers are mostly oilfield workers, who were either working or sleeping this time of day.<\/p>\n

SPHP tanked up on everything imaginable while watching waterfowl on Lake Colleen.\u00a0 It was 12:34 PM when SPHP waddled out of the Aurora.<\/p>\n

Certainly took your sweet time, didn’t you?<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, Loopster!\u00a0 Too bad you can’t go in there.\u00a0 The Aurora is fantastic!\u00a0 So good.\u00a0 Better get used to the wait.\u00a0 Found out breakfast is served 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM.\u00a0 Not missing that before we leave Deadhorse in the morning.<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, at least someone is having a grand time in Deadhorse!<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, come on.\u00a0 Here, I’ve smuggled you out some bacon.\u00a0 Besides, you’re going to have some fun now.\u00a0 We have time for a Sagavanirktok River walk.\u00a0 Should be a good time.<\/em><\/p>\n

Bacon?\u00a0 Now you’re talking, SPHP!<\/em><\/p>\n

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Deadhorse is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Here Lupe stands near a line of whatever in the heck they are not far from the Aurora Hotel.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For an hour, Loopster did have fun along the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 She explored rock jetties along the riverbank.\u00a0 She sniffed around gullies in the tundra nearby.\u00a0 The Carolina Dog watched geese flying in formation, and barked excitedly each time an airplane roared low overhead.<\/p>\n

The Sag looked all silvery from even a short distance, but up close it was more of a greenish silver.\u00a0 The water was neither murky nor particularly clear.\u00a0 It was possible to see quite a few feet down into the water.\u00a0 The river was hundreds of feet wide, but other than the main channel, most of it didn’t appear deep.\u00a0 Though the current looked strong, the river’s surface rippled only slightly.<\/p>\n

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Lupe near the start of her early afternoon Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> walk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Looking upstream. The bank is all artificially built up along here to prevent flooding.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lupe explores rocks of one of the jetties. Photo looks downstream.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Checking out one of the gullies near the Sagavanirktok River. Some of the gullies were much deeper than this.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Deadhorse was a busy place in the middle of the day.\u00a0 Lupe eventually became concerned with all the industrial noises she was hearing, and wanted to return to the G6.\u00a0 (1:57 PM)<\/em>\u00a0 SPHP had noticed that a small gift shop in the Aurora Hotel did have postcards about Prudhoe Bay.\u00a0 Might as well go back and get one.\u00a0 Time enough to do that before heading over to Deadhorse Camp.<\/p>\n

2:45 PM<\/em> – Loop’s relaxing in the G6.\u00a0 Just arrived at Deadhorse Camp to pay for the Arctic Ocean tour.\u00a0 The guy who takes the money asks for SPHP’s identification, which is duly presented, then mentions there’s a problem.\u00a0 Half an hour ago, BP (formerly British Petroleum, which holds the lease in the tour area) emailed the Deadhorse Camp tour operators that everyone must make reservations at least 24 hours in advance.\u00a0 This is so they have time to run an FBI check.<\/p>\n

In recent times, this has always technically been a requirement, but they haven’t been enforcing it.\u00a0 SPHP can’t go on this afternoon’s Arctic Ocean tour, unless the BP people waive the requirement.\u00a0 Will seeing an American passport help?\u00a0 No.\u00a0 It all depends on the shuttle bus driver, who is a long time BP employee.\u00a0 Until he arrives, nothing to do but wait.\u00a0 The Deadhorse Camp guy says he will encourage a waiver, but no promises.<\/p>\n

3:30 PM<\/em> – The shuttle bus has arrived.\u00a0 The driver hadn’t even seen the email yet.\u00a0 The Deadhorse Camp guy says that when he does, the driver checks everyone’s ID information then agrees to simply blow the email off, at least for this afternoon’s tour.\u00a0 The Arctic Ocean tour is a go!\u00a0 SPHP pays the $69.00 in cash, and climbs aboard the shuttle bus along with the 4 other people taking the tour.\u00a0 Minutes later, the tour is underway.<\/p>\n

The tour is very informal.\u00a0 The driver gives no prepared talk, but is willing to answer questions.\u00a0 He is an Alaska native born in Kotzebue, a town of 3,500 on the W coast a little N of the Arctic Circle.\u00a0 He has seen herds of several thousand wild reindeer there.\u00a0 Zinc mining is the big employer in Kotzebue.<\/p>\n

The driver has been working on the North Slope for 28 years in various capacities, and lives in Anchorage now.\u00a0 Most oilfield workers do.\u00a0 The company pays for flights between the job and Anchorage, on a rotating on\/off cycle.\u00a0 While in Deadhorse, everyone works every day.\u00a0 Not much else to do here, anyway.<\/p>\n

A brief stop at the East Checkpoint.\u00a0 The tour is authorized to continue on through the Prudhoe Bay oilfields.\u00a0 The driver points out several of the many scattered oilfield facilities seen from the road, and explains their purpose.\u00a0 If requested, he will stop anywhere along the way for photos or a longer look.<\/p>\n

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One of a variety of oilfield facilities the Arctic Ocean tour goes by.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Swans on a pond en route to the Arctic Ocean.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What you get out of the shuttle bus part of the tour depends entirely on what you put into it.\u00a0 Ask no questions, and it’s just a taxi ride.\u00a0 You won’t learn much of anything.\u00a0 A man from western Colorado asks a number of questions.\u00a0 SPHP keeps up a near constant Q & A session with the driver, who is a friendly guy.\u00a0 No one else says anything, except a woman with a fancy camera who wants to stop wherever there’s wildlife.<\/p>\n

SPHP notices a pile of clean white towels on the seat behind the bus driver, and makes a joke about should have brought a bathing suit, then suddenly realizes that’s exactly what those towels are for.\u00a0 The shuttle bus driver confirms it.\u00a0 Dang!\u00a0 Really should have worn a bathing suit.\u00a0 Never even thought of it until now.\u00a0 A swim in the Arctic Ocean would have been something!\u00a0 Too late now.<\/p>\n

Something like half an hour after leaving Deadhorse Camp, the shuttle bus arrives at its destination.\u00a0 This is it, the Arctic Ocean!\u00a0 Everyone piles out.\u00a0 Ahead a gravelly spit of land protrudes a couple hundred yards out into the sea.\u00a0 No one can go anywhere except this one little peninsula.\u00a0 The driver says that Prudhoe Bay is on the L (W) and the Beaufort Sea is on the R (E).\u00a0 Seems unlikely to be strictly true, but we’re going with it.\u00a0 Everyone walks out toward the end of the spit.<\/p>\n

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This is it! The highlight of the Arctic Ocean<\/strong> tour. For $69 you can walk out to the end of this gravelly spit of land protruding into the sea. On the L is Prudhoe Bay<\/strong>, on the R is the Beaufort Sea<\/strong>. If only Lupe could have been here!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Everything is gray.\u00a0 The ocean is gray, the sky is gray, the rocks are gray.\u00a0 The sea is quite calm.\u00a0 SPHP takes off shoes and socks, and wades in.\u00a0 The water is cold, but no worse than the streams Lupe has been fording in Alaska.\u00a0 The water is surprisingly shallow near shore.\u00a0 SPHP wades 30 or 40 feet out into the Beaufort Sea.\u00a0 The ocean is only knee deep.<\/p>\n

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Looking out across the Beaufort Sea<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands out in the Beaufort Sea experiencing the Arctic Ocean for 5 minutes, then bends down to pluck a stone off the seabed.\u00a0 Except for a narrow white stripe, the stone is a uniform dull gray.\u00a0 Worn smooth by the action of the waves, it’s a little over 2 inches long.\u00a0 A 0.25 inch diameter depression on one side is the only significant feature.<\/p>\n

A souvenir.\u00a0 Something real to take home from the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 Utterly meaningless to the rest of the world, but forever a tangible reminder of this moment a few tens of feet off the N coast of Alaska.\u00a0 Clutching the small stone, SPHP wades back to join the other tour members on shore.<\/p>\n

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The Beaufort Sea<\/strong> from the end of the spit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Various energy industry facilities are off in the distance strung out all along the coast in both directions.\u00a0 Nearby a double row of rusty barrels extends out into the sea.\u00a0 Little waves lap the shore line.\u00a0 Too bad Lupe couldn’t be here.\u00a0 It’s a great day.\u00a0 Temps in the 40’s \u00b0F.\u00a0 Wonder what this place must be like in winter?\u00a0 Brutal, no doubt.<\/p>\n

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Looking toward Prudhoe Bay<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A view of some sort of oil industry facility across the bay with help from the telephoto lens. The tour guide said that all Prudhoe Bay facilities are onshore. No off-shore drilling goes on up here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Another oil industry complex across Prudhoe Bay<\/strong> with help from the telephoto lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A double line of rusting barrels extends out into the Arctic Ocean<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Side view looking toward the Beaufort Sea<\/strong>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Other tour members start back to the shuttle bus.\u00a0 Must be time.\u00a0 SPHP lingers at the end of the spit, staring out across the Arctic Ocean.\u00a0 The North Pole is somewhere out there, still roughly 1,200 miles away.\u00a0 This is as close as SPHP will ever get.<\/p>\n

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Final look at the Arctic Ocean<\/strong> before boarding the shuttle bus.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The shuttle bus ride back to Deadhorse Camp retraces the original route to the ocean.\u00a0 Three arctic foxes playing together are the highlight of the return trip.<\/p>\n

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One of the three arctic foxes seen on the way back to Deadhorse Camp. Look at that magnificent bushy tail!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The 3 foxes were very lively and enjoyed rough and tumble games with each other.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lupe would have loved playing with the foxes! How they might have felt about being joined by an American Dingo is another matter.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Another energy industry complex on the way back to Deadhorse Camp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So, how was the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP?\u00a0 Was it worth it?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yeah, it was Loop.\u00a0 Really wished you could have been there the whole time, though.\u00a0 I waded right out into the Arctic Ocean!<\/em><\/p>\n

Wasn’t it frigid?<\/em><\/p>\n

Not as bad as I expected, but then it’s a balmy day in August.\u00a0 No worse than all the streams and bogs you’ve been traipsing through almost daily on this trip.<\/em><\/p>\n

What did you like best about it?<\/em><\/p>\n

Just being there, thinking about where I was on the globe.\u00a0 Zillions of people have been to the ocean, but not that many have ever been to the Arctic Ocean.<\/em><\/p>\n

Hardly any Dingoes either, I don’t suppose, given the anti-Dingo policies around here.<\/em><\/p>\n

Probably not, but your cousins have been there!<\/em><\/p>\n

What?!<\/em><\/p>\n

We saw three arctic foxes!\u00a0 They were playing together.\u00a0 You would have loved that.\u00a0 And their tails!\u00a0 Magnificent!\u00a0 I like your curly tail, but these foxes had some of the most exquisite tails you’ve ever seen.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, fun!\u00a0 But I think I better stick with the tail I’ve got.\u00a0 I’m rather attached to it, and it to me.\u00a0 So, now what?<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, how about a tour of Deadhorse?\u00a0 You can at least do that.\u00a0 We’ll just drive around seeing whatever there is to see.\u00a0 We can follow it up with a second Sagavanirktok River walk this evening.<\/em><\/p>\n

Sounds good.\u00a0 Especially the river walk part.\u00a0 I’m not really so into all this industrial stuff, but we might as well see it while we’re here.<\/em><\/p>\n

Leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe and SPHP drove most of the few major roads in Deadhorse.\u00a0 Several short side roads and a couple of large loops constituted most of the Carolina Dog’s Deadhorse tour.<\/p>\n

Nearly everything Lupe saw was directly related to the energy industry.\u00a0 Various industrial installations, a wide variety of oil service companies, drilling rigs, heavy equipment, maintenance and storage facilities, and stacks of supplies were about it.\u00a0 White pickup trucks were all over the place, and semi trucks came and went.<\/p>\n

The only businesses open to serving the general public seemed to be the small airport, a couple of unmanned gas stations, various boxy “hotels”, and the gift shop at Brooks Range Supply.<\/p>\n

Not a single home was seen anywhere.\u00a0 All the oilfield workers live in the hotels.<\/p>\n

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Idle drilling rigs in Deadhorse. Energy prices had been low for a couple of years now.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Another drilling rig.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lupe went clear around Lake Colleen on her tour of Deadhorse. Here she’s NW of the lake only 6 miles from Prudhoe Bay.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood a little NW of Lake Colleen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A truck maintenance and repair facility. Some places in Deadhorse looked quite new like this one. Others appeared much older.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Stacks of supplies were a common sight.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lots of oil service companies have offices and facilities in Deadhorse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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SPHP has a red stocking cap that says “Halliburton”. It was picked up at a garage sale years ago, but brought SPHP instant acceptance here in Deadhorse. Everyone seemed to think SPHP worked here!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Hotels in Deadhorse really look strange. They are all boxy like this, but are often surprisingly nice inside. Only some of them cater to the public. Most are full of oilfield workers since there are no homes at all in Deadhorse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Giant spools.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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One of two gas stations in Deadhorse. This is the fanciest one. Both are completely unmanned. No convenience stores here or anywhere else in Deadhorse. Except for energy industry related businesses, there’s no business district at all.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mural on one of the buildings. Deadhorse is part of Alaska’s nearly 95,000 square mile North Slope Borough.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8:17 PM<\/em> – Having had a bite to eat, it was time for Lupe’s evening walk along the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 For the first time in many days, most of the sky overhead was completely blue, though clouds existed farther off in every direction.\u00a0 The Sag, as it’s called locally, reflected the sky and was now a beautiful blue itself.<\/p>\n

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Lupe starts her second Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> walk of the day – an unhurried, evening stroll upstream.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Following the beautiful Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> upstream in Deadhorse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The American Dingo wasn’t the only one out enjoying the lovely evening by the Sagavanirktok River.\u00a0 Several fishermen were trying their luck from the bank.\u00a0 A couple of hardy souls came floating down the river.\u00a0 Even though only a light intermittent breeze was blowing, a man kept trying to launch a green kite.\u00a0 The kite would soar briefly before plunging back to earth.<\/p>\n

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A couple of hardy souls go floating by down the Sagavanirktok River.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The green kite soars briefly on a weak, unreliable breeze.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a long relaxing stroll, Lupe reached a van parked near the river not far from Deadhorse Camp.\u00a0 The van belonged to a graduate student in theoretical chemistry from Germany.\u00a0 He was watching caribou far beyond the opposite bank of the Sagavanirktok with binoculars.\u00a0 The student let SPHP take a peek.<\/p>\n

The theoretical chemist already had reservations to take the Arctic Ocean tour tomorrow.\u00a0 SPHP advised him to wear his swim suit.\u00a0 Lupe enjoyed being petted while the student and SPHP chatted.<\/p>\n

This was far enough.\u00a0 The sun was getting low.\u00a0 The moment came to turn around, and begin the walk back to the G6.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe at the endpoint of her Sagavanirktok River<\/strong> walk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Looper had quite a romp among the gullies near the river.\u00a0 She sniffed and explored to her heart’s delight.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Among the gullies where Loop had a fun romp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The sun took a long time to slide toward the horizon.\u00a0 It was still light out and would be for a while when Lupe reached the G6 again.\u00a0 (9:37 PM)\u00a0<\/em> Almost an hour later, SPHP invited Loop to come out and watch the sun go down over the Deadhorse airport.\u00a0 A brilliant sunset seemed like a possibility due to some thin clouds.<\/p>\n

The Carolina Dog was done for the day.\u00a0 She wanted to curl up under her blankie instead.\u00a0 SPHP left her to snooze, and walked 5 minutes to the top of a mound of dirt 15 feet higher than the surrounding tundra.<\/p>\n

Alone, SPHP stood watching the sun sink.\u00a0 The sunset was pretty, but the hoped for pinks and reds never really developed.\u00a0 It was still a gorgeous evening, a magical moment.\u00a0 An Alaska Airlines plane took off from the airport and curved away overhead.\u00a0 A glistening Sagavanirktok River rippled by near the end of its journey to the Arctic Ocean.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Arctic Sun near the end of day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The sky turned golden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The set up for the sunset looked promising.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
But the pinks and reds never really developed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tomorrow Lupe would leave for other adventures.\u00a0 SPHP was glad she’d come here, though, beyond the Brooks Range and across the North Slope to Deadhorse at the N end of the Dalton Highway near Prudhoe Bay.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-21-17<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Links:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Next Adventure<\/a><\/span>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Prior Adventure<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose\u00a0from\u00a0Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>,\u00a0Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska! 5:18 AM, 44\u00b0F – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything.\u00a0 A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds.\u00a0 SPHP checks the camera.\u00a0 No, it wasn’t left on.\u00a0 Lupe is awake.\u00a0 She hears the noise, too, but seems … Continue reading Deadhorse, Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14168,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[835],"tags":[704,105,926,927,925,106,923,26,104,924,928],"class_list":["post-14213","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2017-yukon-alaska","tag-alaska","tag-american-dingo","tag-arctic-ocean","tag-arctic-ocean-tour","tag-beaufort-sea","tag-carolina-dog","tag-deadhorse","tag-dingo-vacations","tag-lupe","tag-prudhoe-bay","tag-sagavanirktok-river"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/P1070837.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14213","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14213"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14213\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21494,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14213\/revisions\/21494"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/14168"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14213"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14213"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14213"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}