{"id":13908,"date":"2018-07-19T08:10:29","date_gmt":"2018-07-19T14:10:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=13908"},"modified":"2018-08-01T22:07:13","modified_gmt":"2018-08-02T04:07:13","slug":"beyond-the-mountain-of-the-midnight-sun-atigun-pass-galbraith-lake-the-edge-of-the-north-slope-8-18-17","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/?p=13908","title":{"rendered":"Beyond the Mountain of the Midnight Sun – Atigun Pass, Galbraith Lake & the Edge of the North Slope (8-18-17)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!<\/em><\/p>\n

6:02 AM, 37\u00b0F –<\/em> The sky had been almost clear before sunset.\u00a0 SPHP expected to wake to blue skies.\u00a0 No such luck.\u00a0 Nothing but gray overhead.\u00a0 Lupe was famished.\u00a0 She gobbled down generous helpings of Alpo and Taste of the Wild before going back to sleep.\u00a0 The Carolina Dog was still exhausted after yesterday’s Cathedral Mountain<\/span><\/a> (3,350 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> adventure.\u00a0 SPHP worked on the trip journal while rain showers came and went.<\/p>\n

10:15 AM<\/em> – Loop was awake again.\u00a0 Not raining now.\u00a0 Scattered patches of blue could even be seen.\u00a0 May as well hit the road.\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP left Cathedral Mountain heading N on the Dalton Highway.<\/p>\n

As it turned out, Coldfoot (milepost 175) was only half a dozen miles away.\u00a0 SPHP gassed up the G6.\u00a0 Only $4.599 per gallon!\u00a0 Same as last year, and a bargain compared to the $5.50 per gallon they wanted back at the Yukon River.\u00a0 Be grateful for what you can get in the Arctic.\u00a0 Especially when they’re practically giving it away!<\/p>\n

25 miles N of Coldfoot was a thrilling sight.\u00a0 Sukakpak Mountain was dead ahead!\u00a0 Lupe had climbed Sukakpak in 2016.\u00a0 As far as SPHP was concerned, Sukakpak Mountain<\/span> (4,459 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> had been one of her most memorable adventures ever!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> came into view 25 miles N of Coldfoot. The beautiful mountain was a thrilling sight! In 2016 Lupe had one of her most memorable adventures ever on Sukakpak. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A repeat of Lupe’s 2016 Sukakpak Mountain adventure would have been great fun, but the weather was just too iffy for that.\u00a0 Too little blue sky, and too many rain showers around.\u00a0 A huge effort that might easily wind up totally socked in and wet didn’t seem worth the risk.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Although Lupe and SPHP would have enjoyed a repeat of last year’s exploits up on Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong>, the weather seemed too iffy today. Too many rain showers around and not enough blue sky. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lupe along the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River<\/strong> with Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> in the background. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

However, there was an easy adventure near Sukakpak Mountain that Lupe and SPHP would both love to do again.\u00a0 This part of the Brooks Range was the farthest N Lupe had ever been.\u00a0 In 2016, Lupe had gone on her Last Mile North<\/strong><\/span><\/a> adventure.\u00a0 This involved only a relatively short walk along the Alaska oil pipeline to a creek N of Dillon Mountain<\/span><\/a> (4,820 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, then W to its nearby confluence with the Dietrich River.<\/p>\n

From that confluence, Lupe had seen a mysterious dark mountain 10 miles farther N.\u00a0 She had seen it the day before from the top of Sukakpak Mountain, too.\u00a0 Not knowing its real name, or if Lupe would ever in her whole life be this far N again, SPHP had named that dark mountain the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.<\/p>\n

Both to commemorate last year’s achievement getting so far N in the Brooks Range, and to celebrate her return, Lupe was going to repeat her Last Mile North trek to see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again.\u00a0 Upon return, Loop was then going to go farther N than she had ever been before, exploring new territory and shattering her old record.<\/p>\n

It was raining again when SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the W side of the Dalton Highway right before the bridge over the Dietrich River shortly before noon.\u00a0 After a bite to eat, and finishing catching up the trip journal while Loop napped, the rain was over.\u00a0 Still overcast and cool, but conditions were fine for the Last Mile North trek.\u00a0 SPHP donned a jacket and the rain poncho, and Lupe was underway.\u00a0 (1:01 PM)<\/em><\/p>\n

The morning’s inactivity and early afternoon nap had done Lupe a lot of good.\u00a0 She was ready for action again!\u00a0 She crossed the bridge over the Dietrich River continuing N to milepost 207 on the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 In 2016, a small pullout slightly N of this point was as far N as the G6 had made it.\u00a0 Milepost 207 was exactly halfway along the 414 mile trip on the Dalton Highway from Livengood to Deadhorse at Prudhoe Bay.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe crosses the bridge over the Dietrich River<\/strong>. Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> is on the R. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lupe visits milepost 207, the halfway point on the Dalton Highway. Milepost 207 is as far N as the G6 made it in 2016, and is just N of the Dietrich River. Dillon Mountain<\/strong> is in the background. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Near milepost 207, Lupe took a short gravel access road W to the service road along the Alaska oil pipeline.\u00a0 Here, SPHP turned N following the service road.<\/p>\n

Following the Alaska oil pipeline N was fabulous!\u00a0 For once, a nice level hike.\u00a0 Better yet, one surrounded by wonderful, remote mountains way up here in the unspoiled Brooks Range of N Alaska.\u00a0 It was an incredible feeling.\u00a0 And as much as SPHP liked this place, Lupe adored<\/em> it.\u00a0 Her enthusiasm was boundless!\u00a0 The Carolina Dog ran, and ran, and ran.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe repeating one of her easiest and favorite adventures of 2016, her Last Mile North trek along the Alaska oil pipeline W of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Looper spent nearly all of her time out of sight in the bushes and forests just off the pipeline service road.\u00a0 She raced back and forth across the road as the mood struck her.\u00a0 Periodically she suddenly appeared a great distance away, and would streak back along the service road to check on SPHP’s progress.\u00a0 Her joy could be measured by the size of that huge pink tongue dangling from her open mouth.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe on the oil pipeline service road coming back to check on SPHP. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Looking back at Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong>. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After following the Alaska oil pipeline a little more than a mile N, Lupe reached a creek flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain.\u00a0 A huge area gets washed out by this creek when water levels are much higher in late spring and early summer.\u00a0 Now the creek was quite low, and occupied only a small portion of its rocky riverbed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe reaches the wide rocky stream bed now only partially occupied by the stream flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The sun had come out.\u00a0 Lupe must have been hot.\u00a0 She drank deeply from the clear, cold creek.\u00a0 She plunked herself right down in the water numerous times.\u00a0 The current was so strong some places that it swept her downstream.\u00a0 Looper didn’t seem to care.\u00a0 The water wasn’t deep.\u00a0 She could get out whenever she pleased.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
This Last Mile N adventure is just the best, isn’t it SPHP? I’m so glad we came back!<\/em> Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Hey, SPHP! We could stay right here the rest of my Dingo Vacation and do this every day! Great idea, aye?<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Loopster cools off in one of the stream’s main channels. This stream flows W to the Dietrich River from N of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Oh, yeah! My case of hot paws is cured!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe and SPHP followed the creek downstream toward its confluence with the Dietrich River about 0.33 mile W of the Alaska oil pipeline.\u00a0 When the stream moved to its far S bank, SPHP was forced up into forest and stands of tall bushes.\u00a0 This slowed SPHP’s progress down a great deal.\u00a0 Meanwhile, Loopster returned to the forest to resume her free roaming adventures.\u00a0 SPHP had to call her back periodically so she didn’t wander too far away.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Approaching the confluence with the Dietrich River<\/strong> (coming in from the R). The mountain on the L is Peak 4363<\/span><\/strong>. Photo looks WNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Suddenly Lupe was there, back at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream she’d been following.\u00a0 This was the farthest N Lupe had ever been.\u00a0 A year and four days ago, she had been here.\u00a0 Off to the N, Lupe could see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again.\u00a0 The top of the mountain was hidden by clouds.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe in the clear stream she has been following W from the Alaska oil pipeline near its confluence with the much larger Dietrich River<\/strong>. The Mountain of the Midnight Sun<\/strong> is in the distance on the R. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The top of the Mountain of the Midnight Sun<\/strong> (R) is hidden by clouds. It felt wonderful, natural, and strange all at the same time to be seeing this view again. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Once again, a year and 4 days after the only other time she’d ever been here, Lupe stands at the confluence of the clear creek and the Dietrich River<\/strong>. The Mountain of the Midnight Sun<\/strong> (Center) is partially obscured by clouds. This was as far N as Lupe had ever been in her whole life. It was wonderful to be back! Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Being back here was an emotional experience.\u00a0 When Lupe had left this place last year, it was with a feeling that she would probably never ever be here to see this fabulous view and the mysterious Mountain of the Midnight Sun again, it was so far N and so far from home.\u00a0 Yet here she was, only a little over a year later.\u00a0 And Lupe had returned as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!\u00a0 Being here seemed both so familiar and so natural, yet at the same time strange and incredibly remote again.\u00a0 It was wonderful to be back!<\/p>\n

This time was going to be different, though.\u00a0 The plan SPHP had eventually put together for Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation was that she would indeed return to the Yukon & Alaska.\u00a0 Lupe would come back here, to this very spot, but this time she would go even farther.\u00a0 Lupe was going to continue N beyond Atigun Pass, crossing the spine of the mighty Brooks Range.\u00a0 She was going to see Galbraith Lake beyond the end of the mountains, and climb Lake Benchmark Mountain<\/span><\/a> (5,000 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> where she would have a tremendous view of the North Slope of Alaska.<\/p>\n

Yes, Lupe was going to see that distant far N land beyond Alaska’s last mountain range!\u00a0 The Carolina Dog would get to see the North Slope’s vast empty boreal tundra extending beyond vision to the Arctic Ocean at the top of the world.<\/p>\n

SPHP had learned something since Lupe had last been here.\u00a0 For many months after Lupe returned home from her 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP had purposely not looked at the topo maps to see if they showed a real name for the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.\u00a0 Finally though, SPHP did look.\u00a0 Yes, the maps did show a name.\u00a0 The Mountain of the Midnight Sun’s real name was Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

The topo maps confirmed one other thing.\u00a0 SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun if she ever returned, but feared that the mountain was probably too difficult.\u00a0 The topo maps concurred.\u00a0 It wasn’t likely SPHP would be able to climb such a rugged peak, which meant Lupe never would either.\u00a0 Still, Lupe could drop by for a look at the mountain today when she went by it heading N.\u00a0 A slim chance still existed an ascent might look feasible.<\/p>\n

Lupe and SPHP lingered at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream a while.\u00a0 Loop relaxed on exposed riverbed next to the river, while SPHP pondered this place and this moment.\u00a0 For more than a year, this had been the farthest N Looper and SPHP had ever been.\u00a0 For more than a year, it had been a dream, at first only faintly held, to come back some day.\u00a0 Now, after today, this hike and this confluence would no longer be Lupe’s last mile N.\u00a0 However, it would forever be a special place.\u00a0 The Carolina Dog and SPHP both loved being here.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe relaxes on exposed riverbed next to the Dietrich River<\/strong> with Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> in the distance. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The long dreamed of moment passed.\u00a0 Lupe was ready.\u00a0 Time for action!\u00a0 New adventures, glorious ones, were ahead!\u00a0 First things first, though.\u00a0 The American Dingo was eager to relive all the great fun of coming here on the way back to the G6 again.<\/p>\n

The forest rang with the shrill, excited barking of the Happiest Dingo on earth.\u00a0 Lupe sped through the forests following whatever secret paths her nose led her to.\u00a0 She didn’t waste a single minute.\u00a0 It was another grand time for both Loop and SPHP, and like all grand times, over too soon.\u00a0 There seemed to be little doubt that Lupe would have rated the past two hours the very best of her entire Dingo Vacation so far.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Oh, yeah! I got to enjoy this bliss all over again. Am I the luckiest Dingo on earth, or what? <\/em>Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> dead ahead. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Back at the Dietrich River<\/strong> again with only the bridge to cross to get back to the G6. Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> in the background. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sukakpak Mountain<\/strong> in the Brooks Range<\/strong> from the Dietrich River<\/strong>. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The sun was out.\u00a0 The temperature had soared to 66\u00b0F by the time Lupe reached the G6.\u00a0 (3:06 PM)<\/em>\u00a0 This was a rare opportunity to dry some things out on the roof.\u00a0 Lupe rested in the shade, listening to the rippling Dietrich River with a beautiful view of Dillon Mountain<\/span><\/a> (4,820 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, still the northernmost mountain Lupe had ever climbed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
While wet stuff dried on the roof of the G6, Lupe rested nearby in the shade listening to the Dietrich River<\/strong> with a view of Dillon Mountain<\/strong>, still the northernmost mountain she had ever climbed. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Rain showers were visible not too far away the whole time.\u00a0 The sunny half hour ended as clouds returned.\u00a0 At least some things had dried off.\u00a0 SPHP took everything off the roof of the G6 and put it all away.\u00a0 It was time.\u00a0 (3:45 PM, 59\u00b0F)<\/em><\/p>\n

Come on, Loopster!\u00a0 Our time’s up here.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, are we really going N now?\u00a0 Farther than ever before?<\/em><\/p>\n

Yes ma’am.\u00a0 The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is going to see some territory she’s never seen before.\u00a0 With a title like that, it’s almost an obligation for you to explore more of the Arctic, you know.<\/em><\/p>\n

Are we going to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun?<\/em><\/p>\n

We’ll see.\u00a0 Probably not.\u00a0 Don’t think it’s anything we can do, but we’ll stop and take a look just in case.\u00a0 It’s not that far away from here.\u00a0 At least you will get to see your Mountain of the Midnight Sun up close.<\/em><\/p>\n

And then what?<\/em><\/p>\n

Well, we’ll have a beautiful drive through the Brooks Range along the Dietrich River valley.\u00a0 Eventually we’ll get to another mountain Richard Carey<\/span><\/strong><\/a> wrote a trip report about on Peakbagger.com.\u00a0 He hasn’t steered us wrong yet.\u00a0 I’m hoping you’ll be able to climb it.<\/em><\/p>\n

What mountain is that, SPHP?<\/em><\/p>\n

Table Mountain.\u00a0 We should be able to see it from the Chandalar Shelf.<\/em><\/p>\n

Table Mountain?\u00a0 Sounds kind of boring.\u00a0 Plenty of Table Mountains, but there’s never a Chair Mountain, is there?\u00a0 Chandalar Shelf sounds sort of exotic, though.\u00a0 I like it here, but I suppose you’re right, as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I ought to explore more of the Arctic.\u00a0 It would be hard to explain to the rest of the sisters, if I didn’t.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

Clever, Loop, but actually you have climbed a chair mountain.\u00a0 Remember Kings Throne Peak<\/strong><\/span><\/a> near Kathleen Lake back in the Yukon?\u00a0 A throne is a fancy chair.<\/em><\/p>\n

Oh, I never thought of that, SPHP.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Dalton Highway’s beautiful pavement ended even before Lupe reached milepost 210 a couple miles N of Dillon Mountain.\u00a0 That was a shame.\u00a0 The highway was now mud, gravel, and potholes.\u00a0 Only a few miles farther, as Lupe was nearing the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, SPHP saw an impressive view of Dillon Mountain in the rear view mirror.\u00a0 It was worth a quick stop.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe near milepost 213. Her Mountain of the Midnight Sun<\/strong> (R) is only a few miles away now. Unfortunately, the Dalton Highway has already reverted to mud and gravel. Photo looks NNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
An impressive view of Dillon Mountain<\/strong> from milepost 213 of the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe reached the Mountain of the Midnight Sun at milepost 216.\u00a0 A glance told the story.\u00a0 It was a great mountain, but SPHP wasn’t prepared to tackle anything like that.\u00a0 Despite the mountain having been a dream goal for over a year, Loop and SPHP paused only briefly before continuing on.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The summit of the Mountain of the Midnight Sun<\/strong> is hidden in the clouds somewhere to the R, perhaps off the edge of this photo. SPHP could tell at a glance that this just wasn’t happening for Lupe. Disappointing, but not unexpected. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The drive up the Dietrich River valley was as beautiful as SPHP had promised it would be.\u00a0 The Dalton Highway eventually left the river, climbing fairly steeply up the side of a ridge.\u00a0 Near the top, the road curved to the R.\u00a0 A broad plain flanked by mountains came into view ahead.\u00a0 SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout on the R (milepost 237).\u00a0 Lupe had reached the Chandalar Shelf.<\/p>\n

Clouds prevailed over most of the sky, but Lupe stood in weak sunshine when she got out of the G6 for a look.\u00a0 (6:00 PM)<\/em>\u00a0 The Chandalar Shelf was gorgeous!\u00a0 A treeless tundra of colorful low bushes stretched away for miles.\u00a0 The flanking mountains were dark beneath the clouds, but weren’t rough or particularly high.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Loopster arrives at the Chandalar Shelf<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Table Mountain<\/span><\/a> (6,314 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> was in view more than 4 miles S of the pullout.\u00a0 Though the summit was partially obscured by clouds, and looked like it might have a dusting of new snow on it, SPHP was excited to see that Table Mountain looked like an eminently climbable peak for Lupe!<\/p>\n

It was much too late, and weather conditions weren’t right anyway, to consider an ascent today.\u00a0 If she stuck around, Lupe could climb Table Mountain tomorrow, though, if the weather would cooperate.\u00a0 If Loop stayed here overnight, she could get an early start in the morning.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Beyond the Chandalar Shelf<\/strong>, the summit of Table Mountain<\/strong> (R of Center) is partially obscured by clouds. SPHP could see enough to tell that Lupe ought to be able to climb Table Mountain<\/strong> easily enough, if the weather would cooperate. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe was interested in making a brief foray out onto the Chandalar Shelf.\u00a0 It seemed like a good idea.\u00a0 Loop and SPHP quickly learned that the ground was soggier than expected.\u00a0 When the time came, the best route to Table Mountain across the Chandalar Shelf would likely be on the highest terrain possible.\u00a0 Fortunately, this was pretty much the most direct line to the mountain, anyway.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe makes a brief foray out onto the Chandalar Shelf<\/strong>. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lupe discovered this faint set of vehicle tracks heading straight for Table Mountain<\/strong>. When the time came to climb the mountain, she intended to start out for it this way. Photo looks S.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps Lupe and SPHP should have stayed at the Chandalar Shelf overnight.\u00a0 Then Lupe might have climbed Table Mountain the next day, but the prospect of seeing new territory made continuing on exciting and attractive.\u00a0 The Arctic stays light a long time, even in mid-August.\u00a0 Lupe had hours of daylight left.\u00a0 Besides, she would eventually have to return this way.\u00a0 She could climb Table Mountain then.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Looking back at Table Mountain<\/strong> (L) as Lupe continues N on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe was only a few miles beyond the Chandalar Shelf when it became apparent that the Dalton Highway would soon start climbing to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>.\u00a0 The road was wet, soft, and slick, and the tops of the mountains here were definitely sporting new snow.\u00a0 What would the road be like?\u00a0 Could the G6 even make it to Atigun Pass?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe on the Dalton Highway only a few miles N of the Chandalar Shelf. The highway would soon start its ascent of Atigun Pass. Photo looks NNE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Dalton Highway starts up to Atigun Pass ahead on the R. Photo looks NNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
18th of August, and the mountaintops were sporting a dusting of new snow. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The climb up to Atigun Pass initially seemed daunting.\u00a0 The road was steep, wet and slick.\u00a0 A light rain was falling, and the possibility of snow on the road ahead was worrisome.\u00a0 However, the G6 was doing fine.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Dalton Highway climbs to the R toward Atigun Pass. Doesn’t look scary from here. Photo looks NNW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway partway up to Atigun Pass. So far, so good. Photo looks NE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Looking back down. The G6 was doing fine despite the wet road. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The top of Atigun Pass (milepost 245) was only 2.5 miles from the big curve where the Dalton Highway began gaining elevation in earnest.\u00a0 Despite initial trepidation, the ascent had gone quickly and smoothly.\u00a0 The pass was 38\u00b0F when Lupe arrived.\u00a0 There was a huge pullout on the E side of the highway.\u00a0 Sadly, and rather surprisingly, Loop found no commemorative sign of any kind.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe arrives at Atigun Pass<\/strong> for her first time ever to find 38\u00b0F weather on August 18th, light rain, a huge wet pullout, and no commemorative Atigun Pass sign of any kind.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.)<\/span><\/strong> is the high point of the Dalton Highway, and on the continental divide along the spine of the Brooks Range.\u00a0 S of the pass, water drains W to the Bering Sea, part of the North Pacific Ocean.\u00a0 N of the pass, water flows N to the Arctic Ocean.<\/p>\n

As geographically significant as Atigun Pass might be, it didn’t take a Carolina Dog long to conclude her inspection of cloudy mountains, cool damp weather, and a muddy parking lot.\u00a0 After a few minutes, Loop was ready to go see whatever was N of the pass.<\/p>\n

The drive down the N side of the Brooks Range was fascinating!\u00a0 For a couple of miles, the Dalton Highway seemed steeper here than it had been S of Atigun Pass.\u00a0 The road wound around making big curves along the sides of the mountains.\u00a0 Up high, a heavy mist was coming down.\u00a0 Fog drifted among mountains capped with new snow, most summits hidden in the clouds.<\/p>\n

SPHP drove slowly so Lupe could take it all in.\u00a0 The American Dingo stopped a couple of times on the way down, too, just to better appreciate being N of Atigun Pass for the first time ever.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lupe on a little side road just off the Dalton Highway. Wow! Here she was, N of Atigun Pass in the Brooks Range<\/strong>!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Though it would have been fun to see these mountains in bright sunshine, the chill mist and fog only added to the sense of mystery and remote solitude.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Looking up at the new snow on the mountaintops, SPHP was struck by the notion that maybe Lupe shouldn’t stay too long N of Atigun Pass. It wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable to the G6, and apparently it was already autumn here in mid-August!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a couple of miles of steep, wide turns, Lupe could see she was now down close to where the road’s grade was about to moderate.\u00a0 The Dalton Highway was heading into a long valley.\u00a0 Small streams by the road were some of the headwaters of the Atigun River beginning a long journey to the Arctic Ocean.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A couple miles from Atigun Pass, the Dalton Highway headed for a long valley. Creeks near the road were the beginnings of the Atigun River<\/strong>. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Dalton Highway began straightening out.\u00a0 It made gentle curves along lower slopes of the mountains following the newly forming Atigun River down the valley.\u00a0 A dozen miles from Atigun Pass, a major tributary came in from a big valley to the SW.\u00a0 The Atigun River was already getting big, and the valley was widening out.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Lower down, the Dalton Highway started leveling out making long gentle curves along the base of the mountains as it followed headwaters of the Atigun River downstream. Lupe was beyond the rain and mist she’d experienced at Atigun Pass. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Atigun River was much larger and the valley widened out after a major tributary of the river joined in from a big valley to the SW. Lupe stands in sunshine within sight of a few encouraging patches of blue sky in the widened valley. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not a tree grew anywhere.\u00a0 Tall bushes were uncommon, though plenty of low ones grew.\u00a0 The Atigun River valley was a starkly beautiful boreal tundra flanked by some of the northernmost mountains in Alaska.<\/p>\n

Before too long, it began to look like the Dalton Highway would soon be approaching the end of the Brooks Range.\u00a0 SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but Loopster could already see Lake Benchmark Mountain<\/span><\/a> (5,000 ft.)<\/span><\/strong>, the mountain she would try to climb tomorrow hoping for a glorious view of Alaska’s vast North Slope.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Dalton Highway is starting to approach the N end of the Brooks Range<\/strong> here. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but Lake Benchmark Mountain<\/strong> (far L in the distance), which Lupe hoped to climb tomorrow, is already in sight. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Where the Atigun River came closer to the Dalton Highway, SPHP parked the G6.\u00a0 Being here was a dream come true!\u00a0 Time to get out and enjoy!\u00a0 Loop happily explored the tundra, while SPHP walked over to the river.<\/p>\n

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Lupe stopped here where the Atigun River<\/strong> flows close to the Dalton Highway. Alaska’s North Slope starts beyond the mountains seen in the distance. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lupe visits the fabled Atigun River<\/strong> in the northern Brooks Range<\/strong>. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The Atigun River<\/strong> really is beautiful, SPHP! However, I have a feeling I won’t be barking at any squirrels around here. I haven’t seen a single tree since before we reached Atigun Pass!<\/em> Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Hi, there! This is Lupe, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood reporting in from the E bank of the Atigun River<\/strong> on the N side of the Brooks Range<\/strong>, just in case any of you other Arctic sisters are thinking of coming up here and would like to know what to expect.<\/em> Photo looks SSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lupe enjoyed a short romp near the Atigun River, but she was getting very close to being as far N as SPHP had planned for her big 2017 Dingo Vacation.\u00a0 She would soon be close to Lake Benchmark Mountain and Galbraith Lake where her journey N would end.\u00a0 In fact, a dark cluster of peaks up ahead must be where Lake Benchmark Mountain was!<\/p>\n

It was exciting being here, nearing a new even more northerly last mile N record for Lupe.\u00a0 What would she see there?\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 to keep going.\u00a0 Soon a gap appeared in the mountains ahead.\u00a0 Beyond the gap was a distant flat land.\u00a0 The North Slope!\u00a0 That was where it began!<\/p>\n

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Only a little farther on, this gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap, Lupe could see the beginning of the North Slope<\/strong> (Center)! Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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SPHP was certain that the highest ridge R of Center in this cluster of dark mountains was Lake Benchmark Mountain<\/strong>, the peak at the N end of the Brooks Range<\/strong> that Lupe had come all this way to climb! However, Lupe later discovered SPHP was in error. (Hardly a first!) Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mountains W of the Dalton Highway beyond the Atigun River. Photo looks W.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A look back to the SSW. The Atigun River valley<\/strong> is on the L.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Atigun River did not flow N through the gap Lupe had seen directly out onto the North Slope.\u00a0 Instead, shortly before reaching the gap, the river turned E entering a narrow valley between high mountains.\u00a0 Near this E bend, the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, leaving it behind and continuing N toward the gap.<\/p>\n

The highway was going uphill now, bordered on one side by the Alaska oil pipeline and a high ridge Lupe would climb tomorrow on her way to Lake Benchmark Mountain somewhere to the E.\u00a0 On the W side of the highway, Lupe ought to be seeing Galbraith Lake any moment now.\u00a0 Sure enough, Galbraith Lake quickly came into view.<\/p>\n

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The Dalton Highway continues N after crossing a bridge over the Atigun River where the river turns E. The Alaska oil pipeline parallels the highway below the last mountains of the Brooks Range. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A couple miles N of where the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, Lupe reaches a view of Galbraith Lake<\/strong>. Only the S end of the large lake is seen here. Photo looks SW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Galbraith Lake lies at the base of the N side of the Brooks Range.\u00a0 The S end of the lake is in a wide plain near high mountains, but the N end of Galbraith Lake extends out into the beginning of the North Slope.\u00a0 Lupe could see the entire lake from the Dalton Highway.\u00a0 She was now about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go – at the end of her northern explorations.<\/p>\n

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Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway with a view of the N end of Galbraith Lake<\/strong>. This was about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go. Photo looks W.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Standing there on the Dalton Highway, with glistening Galbraith Lake in full view beneath a gray sky, SPHP was seized with the notion that Lupe ought to go farther.\u00a0 Yes, Loop could see the beginning of the North Slope at the N end of Galbraith Lake from here, but the sky was lighter over that way, and the Dalton Highway was still going up as it continued N.<\/p>\n

Maybe by going a few miles farther, Lupe could get to some higher point where the light would be better, and she could see much more of the North Slope?\u00a0 It seemed worth a shot.\u00a0 It was late in the day.\u00a0 Lupe and SPHP had nothing better to do before sunset.<\/p>\n

It was a good decision.\u00a0 As SPHP drove N, the light did improve, and so did the views of the North Slope.\u00a0 The Dalton Highway reached the top of the hill it had been climbing.\u00a0 SPHP continued driving N over a couple minor rises looking for a place to park the G6.\u00a0 Several miles beyond the last hills of the Brooks Range, a wide side road appeared on the W side of the Dalton Highway near milepost 236 or 237.\u00a0 Yes!<\/p>\n

Loopster, Loopster, come on!\u00a0 Hurry!\u00a0 This is it!\u00a0 What you’ve come so far to see!\u00a0 We’re in the nick of time!<\/em><\/p>\n

Lupe was almost alarmed by SPHP’s excited, wild behavior, but being a bold American Dingo, leapt out of the G6 ready for anything.<\/p>\n

It was raining.\u00a0 And sunny.\u00a0 Gentle rolling fields of gold extended N as far as Lupe could see toward big hills bordering on small mountains on the horizon.\u00a0 To the W a line of much higher mountains marked the N edge of the lonely, remote Brooks Range.\u00a0 To the SE, a last ridge stood high and dark in a shadowy gloom.\u00a0 In sunlight, before this forbidding ridge, extending down to the golden boreal tundra, glowed a double rainbow.<\/p>\n

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It was raining. Photo looks NW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Gentle golden slopes extended as far as Lupe could see to high hills and small mountains on the horizon. Photo looks N.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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And sunny. Remote peaks along the N edge of the Brooks range appear miles beyond the North Slope’s billowing sea of gold. Photo looks WSW.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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In front of the last high, shadowy ridge of the Brooks Range, glowed a double rainbow. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Loop in dazzling sunlight at the end of the rainbow on Alaska’s North Slope.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was an amazing moment, so full of joy!\u00a0 This was<\/em> it!\u00a0 This was the unbelievable North Slope even better than any dream.\u00a0 Lupe had arrived when the whole world appeared as a boundless treasure.\u00a0 The North Slope’s limitless tundra was a promised golden land at the end of the rainbow.<\/p>\n

Such magical moments can’t last.\u00a0 They flit away, never to return, like carefree butterflies blown far and wide, lost wherever soft breezes take them.\u00a0 The rainbow, the dazzling sunlight, the glistening raindrops would all quickly fade or pass by.\u00a0 Yet for a few wonderful fleeting moments, it was all so very real, as real as anything ever was.<\/p>\n

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On the Dalton Highway in the promised land of Alaska’s North Slope. Photo looks E.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sweet Loop near the end of the rainbow. Photo looks SSE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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N of the Brooks Range. Photo looks SE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chasing rainbows, Lupe got cold and wet.\u00a0 She was tired and hungry.\u00a0 SPHP turned the G6 to face the sunset.\u00a0 Alpo for Lupe, then her warm blankie.\u00a0 At evening’s end, a pale sun sank into a bank of gray clouds.\u00a0 No colors, no beauty, simply gone.\u00a0 The vast gray tundra stretched away to infinity.\u00a0 Lupe snoozed as SPHP watched the North Slope fade away.\u00a0 (10:30 PM, 41\u00b0F)<\/em><\/p>\n

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In North Slope Dingo Dreamland.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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So this is it? The promised land of the North Slope with a rainbow and everything? I’m going to close my eyes and make a wish. Maybe there will be squirrels here when I open them!<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A magical moment on the North Slope, Alaska 8-18-17<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Want more Lupe adventures?\u00a0\u00a0Choose\u00a0from\u00a0Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>,\u00a0Dingo Vacations Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a> or Master Adventure Index<\/strong><\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0Or subscribe free\u00a0to\u00a0new Lupe adventures<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska! 6:02 AM, 37\u00b0F – The sky had been almost clear before sunset.\u00a0 SPHP expected to wake to blue skies.\u00a0 No such luck.\u00a0 Nothing but gray overhead.\u00a0 Lupe was famished.\u00a0 She gobbled down generous helpings of Alpo and Taste of the Wild before going … Continue reading Beyond the Mountain of the Midnight Sun – Atigun Pass, Galbraith Lake & the Edge of the North Slope (8-18-17)<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13903,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[835],"tags":[8,704,105,918,106,26,920,104,728,919],"class_list":["post-13908","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2017-yukon-alaska","tag-omniten","tag-alaska","tag-american-dingo","tag-atigun-pass","tag-carolina-dog","tag-dingo-vacations","tag-galbraith-lake","tag-lupe","tag-mountain-of-the-midnight-sun","tag-north-slope"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/adventuresoflupe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6834.jpg?fit=1651%2C1238&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13908","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13908"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13908\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16355,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13908\/revisions\/16355"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13903"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13908"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13908"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventuresoflupe.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13908"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}